From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Sep  1 01:11:09 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2007 02:11:09 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] moss video
In-Reply-To: <c28.1c6116a4.3409be25@aol.com>
References: <c28.1c6116a4.3409be25@aol.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709010011n605c613n164694e3b63b15c7@mail.gmail.com>

I painted my '68 Bronco 289 in 1993 with 4 cans of Krylon, if that
helps.  Looked good too!

On 9/1/07, KingR44916 at aol.com <KingR44916 at aol.com> wrote:
> does anyone have their video on how to paint a car
>
>
>
> ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL
> at
> http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From frogeye at swcp.com  Sat Sep  1 06:38:41 2007
From: frogeye at swcp.com (david porter)
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2007 06:38:41 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Friday funny
Message-ID: <200709011238.l81CchIu041514@ame9.swcp.com>

> >   One day a father gets out
>     of work and on his way home he suddenly
> >   remembers that
>     it's his daughter's birthday.
> >
> >   He pulls over to a
>     toy shop and asks the salesperson, "How much for
> >
>     one
> >   of Those Barbie's in the display
>     window?"
> >
> >   The salesperson
>     answers,
> >
> >   which one do you mean,
>     sir?
> >
> >   We have:
> >
> >   Work
>     Out Barbie for $19.95,
> >
> >   Shopping Barbie for
>     $19.95,
> >
> >   Beach Barbie for
>     $19.95,
> >
> >   Disco Barbie for
>     $19.95,
> >
> >   Ballerina Barbie for
>     $19.95,
> >
> >   Astronaut Barbie for
>     $19.95,
> >
> >   Skater Barbie for
>     $19.95,
> >
> >   and Divorced Barbie for
>     $265.95"
> >
> >   The amazed father asks: "You what?! Why
>     is the Divorced Barbie $265.95
> >   and the others only
>     $19.95?
> >
> >   The annoyed salesperson rolls her eyes,
>     sighs, and answers: Sir...,
> >   "Divorced Barbie comes
>     with:
> >   Ken's Car, Ken's House, Ken's Boat, Ken's
>     Furniture, Ken's Computer
> >   and...One of Ken's
>     Friends.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>   >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>   --
>
>
>
>
>See what youre getting intobefore you go there See it!
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Invite your mail contacts to join your friends list with Windows Live
>Spaces. It's easy!
>http://spaces.live.com/spacesapi.aspx?wx_action=create&wx_url=/friends.aspx
&mkt=en-us

_________________________________________________________________
Get the device you want, with the Hotmail. you love.
http://www.windowsmobile.com/hotmailmobile?ocid=MobileHMTagline_1


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From pete.farmer at virgin.net  Sat Sep  1 10:12:52 2007
From: pete.farmer at virgin.net ( pete farmer)
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2007 17:12:52 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Parts Comparisons
Message-ID: <20070901161240.8CE12176072@sgrsil47.onetel.net.uk>

Hi Rick,

I can vouch for the ACL bearings from Aus. As Richard has, they are the only
bearings we use for all our engine builds including our V8's. we tried the
'County' ones once only!

Pete.

From bighealey at charter.net  Sat Sep  1 10:26:18 2007
From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond)
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2007 09:26:18 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Spamming the List?
In-Reply-To: <9DCDF685130B4E1FA14B3FEDCF141153@LeonardPC>
Message-ID: <001901c7ecb4$d6571c50$1002a8c0@TRACY>

I also received it.

Probably getting your email address from the golden gate healeys contact
info.

Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !
President AHCUSA              www.healey.org
VP/Events Director GGAHC  www.goldengatehealeys.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+bighealey=charter.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+bighealey=charter.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Leonard Hartnett
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2007 8:16 PM
To: Healey Mail List
Subject: [Healeys] Spamming the List?

I just received an e-mail from VIPCLASSICS.COM.  Their web site indicates
that
they are located in San Diego.  They start their pitch with, "Hi, just
thought
we would e-mail you with a link to our website,...".  It is addressed to me
but I wonder if anyone else on The List received it also.  I know that they
could have picked up my e-mail address from anywhere but since it is
automobile related I wondered if there could be a List or car club
connection
as the source of e-mail addresses.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville,  California,  USA
1967 3000 MKIII, HBJ8L39031
_______________________________________________
bighealey at charter.net 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sat Sep  1 12:39:10 2007
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2007 14:39:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Radio Trim Parts
Message-ID: <20070901.143910.3268.0.dwflagg@juno.com>

I have the speaker surround bezel for the BJ8 radio. Also, have a couple
of radio backing plates that are for the MGB. Have 
the chrome radio bezel used on later Sprite and Midget, TR4, Herald 1200
and Spitfire 4. If interested, please contact me off the list. Thanks.

Doug

From Editorgary at aol.com  Sat Sep  1 12:42:24 2007
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2007 14:42:24 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Smog Controls
Message-ID: <c44.1dff6b77.340b0c90@aol.com>

In a message dated 9/1/07 11:02:56 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes:


> We ALL know cars RAN better
> before said POS was created!!!  My 500+HP Small Block 'Camino does FAR
> better
> on smog test than wife's '06 V-6 Malibu Maxx!!  Go figure.
>
> Ed
>

I don't know what your small block Chevy is doing, but your data is
inaccurate. On average, the new car of today emits less than five percent of
the
pollution of a new car of fifteen years ago. The interesting corollary fact is
that
it is impossible to commit suicide with a new car's exhaust. You can pipe the
exhaust right into the closed car, and even with a full tanke of gas, it will
run out of gas well before it builds up a lethal concentration of carbon
monoxide or NOx. Due to the smog controls, the atmosphere of the major cities
is
considerably better than it was fifteen years ago.
In fact, the real problem is that the enviro-nazis are continuing to put ever
tighter restrictions on the easy target -- the person who actually gets their
car smog-tested and wouldn't drive an unlicensed car -- and are still
unwilling to do the politically difficult thing and road-side test and impound
older,
unmaintained, and illegal cars being driven by people who can't afford to buy
or maintain a new car. (In California, to do that would cripple the
agriculture and hospitality industries). Oh, and don't get me started on the
lack of
controls on heavy trucks and off-road agricultural equipment, which continue
to
pollute just as much as they did fifteen years ago, and now are the major
source of mobile pollution in California.
Cheers
Gary




**************************************
 Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From Editorgary at aol.com  Sat Sep  1 12:59:29 2007
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2007 14:59:29 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Fact-Check: Average Miles Per Gallon?
Message-ID: <d2e.fb71746.340b1091@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/31/07 8:10:05 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes:


> How is it
> that my '53 BN1, a high performance sportscar no less, gets better mileage
> than the average US passenger car fleet in 2007??? 
>
The last year for which U.S. Passenger Car Fleet MPG is available is 2004,
but 2005 New car data is available -- both from U.S. DOT (all you need to do
to
find this data is google "average milesage U.S. Passenger Car.")
The U.S. passenger car fleet was getting 22.4 mpg in 2004, and the average
new car in the U.S was getting 29.9 mpg in 2005.
So, are you saying you get over 22.4 mpg in your BN2 on a regular basis? If
so, my guess is your mileage is much better than the average across the Healey
fleet. And, oh, by the way, your "high performance sports car" can be beaten
on any track at any time by an stock Ford Focus.
I'm just saying that if we're going to carry on these debates, we need to get
our facts straight first.

(Incidentally, for the record, I personally believe that the Healey is a
marvelous example of a classic performance car and is still capable of
long-distance touring on modern highways, I enjoy the hell out of racing my
race-prepped
MGA in spite of the fact that I can beat its track times by several seconds in
any bone-stock 2007 Mini Cooper S, and I believe that classic sports cars
built more than 25 years ago, owned and driven by hobbyists for hobby purposes
should be exempt from smog restrictions.)
Cheers
Gary


**************************************
 Get a sneak peek of the all-new
AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sat Sep  1 13:08:48 2007
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2007 15:08:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Old Road & Track Magazines
Message-ID: <20070901.150849.572.0.dwflagg@juno.com>

I have a group of older Road & Track magazines. 

 1) August 1957

 2) January 1959

 3)  August, September, October, December 1960

 4) August, November 1961

 5) August, December 1962

 6) February, August 1963

 7) September 1965

 8) November 1966

 9) April 1992

If you have an interest, please contact me off the list. Thanks.

Doug

From britcrs at gmail.com  Sat Sep  1 14:51:09 2007
From: britcrs at gmail.com (Marvin James)
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2007 13:51:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Parts Comparisons
In-Reply-To: <20070901161240.8CE12176072@sgrsil47.onetel.net.uk>
References: <20070901161240.8CE12176072@sgrsil47.onetel.net.uk>
Message-ID: <cd33dd3a0709011351g7cf225a3ub80a6c34d20194b1@mail.gmail.com>

Are ACL bearings available for a Healey 100? Who sells them?

Marv J

On 9/1/07, pete farmer <pete.farmer at virgin.net> wrote:
> Hi Rick,
>
> I can vouch for the ACL bearings from Aus. As Richard has, they are the only
> bearings we use for all our engine builds including our V8's. we tried the
> 'County' ones once only!
>
> Pete.
> _______________________________________________
> britcrs at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From autofarm at cyg.net  Sat Sep  1 18:58:18 2007
From: autofarm at cyg.net (Bob Yule)
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2007 20:58:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Parts comparisons
Message-ID: <000901c7ecfc$5b7b27e0$6400a8c0@OFFICE>

    I can only speak from personal experience, and I have not had anything to
do with ACL bearings, but the County, made in Israel bearings, that we have
used for the last several years have not been a problem.  The quality of
machining on modern bearings is pretty much fool proof and whether an Indian
in Australia or a Chinaman in Israel is making them, the quality is about the
same.  A lot of problems arise when building the bottom end of a motor, if it
is not align honed, to make sure that everything is in line, the way it's
supposed to be.
    Just my take on this tonight..........after several beers.
Cheers.......Bob
Check out our web site www.autofarm.net

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Sep  1 19:45:00 2007
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 01 Sep 2007 18:45:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] County Brand (was Parts comparisons)
In-Reply-To: <000901c7ecfc$5b7b27e0$6400a8c0@OFFICE>
References: <000901c7ecfc$5b7b27e0$6400a8c0@OFFICE>
Message-ID: <46DA159C.5080104@comcast.net>

I bought a "County" brand water pump for my BJ8.  The box says
"Automobile Components - England," but a label on the box indicates
it was made in India.  Looks like County sources from several countries,
like Bob mentioned.

FWIW, the pump appears to be excellent quality, and even included
a gasket and new studs, which are all-but-impossible to find elsewhere.

Anybody else have info on County products?


bs


Bob Yule wrote:
>     I can only speak from personal experience, and I have not had anything to
> do with ACL bearings, but the County, made in Israel bearings, that we have
> used for the last several years have not been a problem.  The quality of
> machining on modern bearings is pretty much fool proof and whether an Indian
> in Australia or a Chinaman in Israel is making them, the quality is about the
> same.  A lot of problems arise when building the bottom end of a motor, if it
> is not align honed, to make sure that everything is in line, the way it's
> supposed to be.
>     Just my take on this tonight..........after several beers.
> Cheers.......Bob
> Check out our web site www.autofarm.net
> _______________________________________________
> bspidell at comcast.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>   

-- 
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

From kt20 at dodo.com.au  Sun Sep  2 00:23:42 2007
From: kt20 at dodo.com.au (keith taylor)
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 16:23:42 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 parts required
Message-ID: <007b01c7ed29$cee4ed60$0202a8c0@Keith>

Hi List anyone have a pair of  front ( right & left guards )
& a pair of door hinges to go to a good home in OZ
Delivery to local (US) address.

Keith Taylor
Wamberal Aust.
BN
BN2
100M  If I ever finish them

From caddi5 at comcast.net  Sun Sep  2 05:20:33 2007
From: caddi5 at comcast.net (caddi5 at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 02 Sep 2007 11:20:33 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] fuel line
Message-ID: <090220071120.15055.46DA9C810009F35700003ACF2215575114CA070B0B0E0C@comcast.net>

Hello list,
I am putting on a complete fuel line ,should I use anything on the threads (teflon tape, pipe dope) or nothing at all? also, I am putting on a new SU fuel pump ( above the exhaust, original ) should I fab a heat shield or won't it be a problem?
thanks! Mitch  
59 bn4

From grain at auracom.com  Sun Sep  2 06:39:24 2007
From: grain at auracom.com (Rick Swain and Wendy Grant)
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 09:39:24 -0300
Subject: [Healeys] fuel line
In-Reply-To: <090220071120.15055.46DA9C810009F35700003ACF2215575114CA070B0B0E0C@comcast.net>
References: <090220071120.15055.46DA9C810009F35700003ACF2215575114CA070B0B0E0C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <450591DC-7F30-413B-AD9B-22469040C356@auracom.com>

Mitch

My experience only on my '59 BN4 - no tape, no dope, no heat shield  
and no problems.

Rick Swain

On 2-Sep-07, at 8:20 AM, caddi5 at comcast.net wrote:

> Hello list,
> I am putting on a complete fuel line ,should I use anything on the  
> threads (teflon tape, pipe dope) or nothing at all? also, I am  
> putting on a new SU fuel pump ( above the exhaust, original )  
> should I fab a heat shield or won't it be a problem?
> thanks! Mitch
> 59 bn4
> _______________________________________________
> grain at auracom.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From alan at andysnet.net  Sun Sep  2 07:05:10 2007
From: alan at andysnet.net (Alan Schultz)
Date: Sun, 02 Sep 2007 08:05:10 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] fuel line
In-Reply-To: <090220071120.15055.46DA9C810009F35700003ACF2215575114CA070B0B0E0C@comcast.net>
References: <090220071120.15055.46DA9C810009F35700003ACF2215575114CA070B0B0E0C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <46DAB506.2000607@andysnet.net>

I've been told to never use teflon tape on fittings for fuel lines. I 
don't know why? Perhaps a bit of loose teflon might cause trouble in the 
carbs?
Alan
67 BJ8

caddi5 at comcast.net wrote:
> Hello list,
> I am putting on a complete fuel line ,should I use anything on the threads (teflon tape, pipe dope) or nothing at all? also, 

From gbrierton at hotmail.com  Sun Sep  2 07:33:02 2007
From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (G. Brierton)
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 09:33:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Old Road & Track Magazines
References: <20070901.150849.572.0.dwflagg@juno.com>
Message-ID: <BLU107-DAV42A5C456308D51D58AD82B3C80@phx.gbl>

 By the way, road tests within:
 3)  Road & Track    August 1960 = Sebring Sprite         
 4) Road & Track    August 1961 = Sprite II (AN6)       
 6) Road & Track    August 1963 = Sprite 1100 (AN7)
GB

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 01, 2007 3:08 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Old Road & Track Magazines


>I have a group of older Road & Track magazines. 
> 
> 1) August 1957
> 
> 2) January 1959
> 
> 3)  August, September, October, December 1960
> 
> 4) August, November 1961
> 
> 5) August, December 1962
> 
> 6) February, August 1963
> 
> 7) September 1965
> 
> 8) November 1966
> 
> 9) April 1992
> 
> If you have an interest, please contact me off the list. Thanks.
> 
> Doug
> _______________________________________________
> gbrierton at hotmail.com 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sun Sep  2 08:15:14 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 07:15:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] fuel line
In-Reply-To: <46DAB506.2000607@andysnet.net>
Message-ID: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKAEIFDFAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>

I always use teflon tape on threaded fittings, including fuel lines.  I've
never had a problem with leaks or anything else from doing this, and it
prevents the threads from seizing from corrosion or galling if it is ever
necessary to unscrew them again.

It just shows that everyone has an opinion.....

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
Alan Schultz
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 6:05 AM
To: caddi5 at comcast.net
Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuel line


I've been told to never use teflon tape on fittings for fuel lines. I
don't know why? Perhaps a bit of loose teflon might cause trouble in the
carbs?
Alan
67 BJ8

caddi5 at comcast.net wrote:
> Hello list,
> I am putting on a complete fuel line ,should I use anything on the threads
(teflon tape, pipe dope) or nothing at all? also,
_______________________________________________
sbyers at ec.rr.com

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.13.2/983 - Release Date: 9/1/2007
4:20 PM

From rjmc46 at att.net  Sun Sep  2 10:32:01 2007
From: rjmc46 at att.net (rjmc46 at att.net)
Date: Sun, 02 Sep 2007 16:32:01 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] bonnet adjustment
Message-ID: <090220071632.5316.46DAE580000EA116000014C42160280748C0CB0C03069D@att.net>

Any one have a good method of installing the bonnet (hood) on a BN-1?
Thanks,
RJ

From rjmc46 at att.net  Sun Sep  2 10:34:37 2007
From: rjmc46 at att.net (rjmc46 at att.net)
Date: Sun, 02 Sep 2007 16:34:37 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] rear height
Message-ID: <090220071634.16967.46DAE61D0009A4CB000042472160280748C0CB0C03069D@att.net>

I put new leaf springs on my 55 BN-1. Both springs ordered from AH Spares. Both same part number. The drivers side is a inch and a half lower than the pass. side.  Any thoughts without replacing the springs.
RJ

From linwoodrose at mac.com  Sun Sep  2 11:32:43 2007
From: linwoodrose at mac.com (linwood rose)
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 13:32:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Smitty Conversion Bell Housing seal
Message-ID: <BBAAFFE5-A495-44E9-A2E7-7AC0C8A7B4A3@mac.com>

For those who have done this conversion:

Is there a gasket or seal that goes between the Toyota Gearbox and  
the Smitty Bellhousing. If so, does anyone have the Toyota part  
number? Or, is this another place for a thin coat of Hylomar?

Thanks.

Lin
1960 BT7 in restoration
1959 Bugeye

From Healeyguy at aol.com  Sun Sep  2 12:04:00 2007
From: Healeyguy at aol.com (Healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 14:04:00 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] fuel line
Message-ID: <c56.1b940762.340c5510@aol.com>

I guess that easiest way to look at the tape, no-tape issue is if the tube  
joint has a flared connection (including compression fitting) or not. There is  
no reason to use tape on a flared fitting as the fluid seal is at the flare 
not  the threads. Actually having to much tape on the threads of a flared 
fitting may  keep the fitting from exerting adequate pressure on the back side of 
the flare.  Sloppy home made flares also cause a bunch of problems. 
Aloha
Perry 



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
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From alanb at nfahc.co.uk  Sun Sep  2 12:09:33 2007
From: alanb at nfahc.co.uk (Alan)
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 19:09:33 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] fuel line
In-Reply-To: <c56.1b940762.340c5510@aol.com>
References: <c56.1b940762.340c5510@aol.com>
Message-ID: <001201c7ed8c$6ba665e0$6401a8c0@Dell>

Guys.
The chemists among you may be able to comment on my observations.  In an
attempt to deal with the last few niggly oil leaks on my BJ8 I used PTFE (is
that what you call Teflon?) tape on the threads of the diff plugs and
gearbox drain plugs.  It appeared to work for a while but then mysteriously
the slight weeps down the threads returned.

On investigation it appeared that the tape was dissolving in the mineral
oil. Does that sound feasible?

Hylomar did the trick instead.

Regards..........
 _______________________________________________
(______________  Alan Bromfield  _______________)
   (______     \____1957-BN4 ___/    _______)
          (_________________________)
            http://www.nfahc.co.uk
        http://www.healey-weekend.com

-----Original Message-----

Healeyguy at aol.com
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 7:04 PM
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuel line

I guess that easiest way to look at the tape, no-tape issue is if the tube  
joint has a flared connection (including compression fitting) or not. There
is  
no reason to use tape on a flared fitting as the fluid seal is at the flare 
not  the threads. Actually having to much tape on the threads of a flared 
fitting may  keep the fitting from exerting adequate pressure on the back
side of 
the flare.  Sloppy home made flares also cause a bunch of problems. 
Aloha
Perry 

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sun Sep  2 12:30:09 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 11:30:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] fuel line
In-Reply-To: <001201c7ed8c$6ba665e0$6401a8c0@Dell>
Message-ID: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKKEIGDFAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>

Hi, Alan -

I don't know about the chemistry, but the diff and gearbox drain plugs are,
I believe, a pipe thread.  That may make a difference.  I still use the
PTFE/Teflon tape on those, too, and haven't had a problem with leaks or
weeping -- at least to where it's a problem.  As long as it doesn't leave
spots on the floor, I don't worry about it.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
Alan
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 11:10 AM
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuel line


Guys.
The chemists among you may be able to comment on my observations.  In an
attempt to deal with the last few niggly oil leaks on my BJ8 I used PTFE (is
that what you call Teflon?) tape on the threads of the diff plugs and
gearbox drain plugs.  It appeared to work for a while but then mysteriously
the slight weeps down the threads returned.

On investigation it appeared that the tape was dissolving in the mineral
oil. Does that sound feasible?

Hylomar did the trick instead.

Regards..........
 _______________________________________________
(______________  Alan Bromfield  _______________)
   (______     \____1957-BN4 ___/    _______)
          (_________________________)
            http://www.nfahc.co.uk
        http://www.healey-weekend.com

-----Original Message-----

Healeyguy at aol.com
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 7:04 PM
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuel line

I guess that easiest way to look at the tape, no-tape issue is if the tube
joint has a flared connection (including compression fitting) or not. There
is
no reason to use tape on a flared fitting as the fluid seal is at the flare
not  the threads. Actually having to much tape on the threads of a flared
fitting may  keep the fitting from exerting adequate pressure on the back
side of
the flare.  Sloppy home made flares also cause a bunch of problems.
Aloha
Perry
_______________________________________________
sbyers at ec.rr.com

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.13.2/983 - Release Date: 9/1/2007
4:20 PM

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Sun Sep  2 12:33:31 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 14:33:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] bonnet adjustment
Message-ID: <380-22007902183331744@earthlink.net>

Well--which one is it--the bonnet or the hood?:):):):)


> [Original Message]
> From: <rjmc46 at att.net>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net (Austin Healey list)>
> Date: 9/2/2007 12:32:01 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] bonnet adjustment
>
> Any one have a good method of installing the bonnet (hood) on a BN-1?
> Thanks,
> RJ
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Sun Sep  2 12:35:30 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 14:35:30 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] rear height
Message-ID: <380-22007902183530581@earthlink.net>

Take the higher one to a spring service place and have it sprung to meet
the other one.  I've had that done on mine to make the car sit lower in the
rear.

tom  


> [Original Message]
> From: <rjmc46 at att.net>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net (Austin Healey list)>
> Date: 9/2/2007 12:34:38 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] rear height
>
> I put new leaf springs on my 55 BN-1. Both springs ordered from AH
Spares. Both same part number. The drivers side is a inch and a half lower
than the pass. side.  Any thoughts without replacing the springs.
> RJ
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From rusd at sitestar.net  Sun Sep  2 13:08:58 2007
From: rusd at sitestar.net (Dave Russell)
Date: Sun, 02 Sep 2007 13:08:58 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] rear height
In-Reply-To: <090220071634.16967.46DAE61D0009A4CB000042472160280748C0CB0C03069D@att.net>
References: <090220071634.16967.46DAE61D0009A4CB000042472160280748C0CB0C03069D@att.net>
Message-ID: <46DB0A4A.8050601@sitestar.net>

Hi RJ,

A couple of questions - Did the car sit the same way before you replaced 
the rear springs? Did the new springs both have the same contour/ 
uncompressed height before installation? Have you put some miles on the 
car to get everything settled? Any binding on spring ends hardware or 
the leaves being stuck together with paint  can cause problems. Driving 
it over some healthy bumps for a while can help settle & free things. It 
will all change as springs take a final set & bushings free a bit.

Even the front springs can cause a tilt. The usual measurment is from 
the ground to lower  wheel opening lip at the wheel center line. Around 
27" for all four corners on late BN1's through early BJ8's. 26" on the 
front of early BN1's, & 28" on late BJ8's. This is of course assuming 
that there is no actual frame/body sag from a rust weakened structure. 
The BN1 went through several different rear spring configurations before 
settling on the final.

You could try interchanging the two rear springs.  For comparison here 
are the specs on my replacement springs. They have been installed for 
three years & have "settled" about 3/8" with no indications of settling 
any more:
Free length eye to eye = 34.5"
Free camber, eye C.L. to top = 4.5"
Both eyes double wrapped, seven main leaves plus end wraps.
Leaf thickness = 0.160" each
Springs marked DAUR/9661, 1B8929X, 14/10/2003, Made in UK, Moss # 021-581

It's really hard to get these cars leveled mechanically & visually. 
There is no  definite measuring point since the cars were rather crudely 
built.   Side to side frame height to ground near the drivers seat 
location can give a rough clue. My BN2 shows about 5 1/2" on both sides. 
The most visual cue is the bumpers being level with the ground. There is 
quite a bit of adjustment room for the bumper end heights.

With matched springs, side to side, I ended up lowering one front spring 
pan with 1/2"spacers, & slotting the bumper bracket mounting holes to 
level both bumpers.  It now "looks" level  but careful measurements 
would show variations in the frame/suspension heights.

Good luck to you.

Regards,
Dave Russell
BN2

rjmc46 at att.net wrote:

>I put new leaf springs on my 55 BN-1. Both springs ordered from AH Spares. Both same part number. The drivers side is a inch and a half lower than the pass. side.  Any thoughts without replacing the springs.
>RJ

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Sep  2 14:14:53 2007
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 16:14:53 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] More Magazines
Message-ID: <20070902.161453.3564.2.dwflagg@juno.com>

I have also found the following magazines which are all in excellent
condition.

 1) British Car April-May '98 "The Healey 100M Is it the best of the
breed"

 2) Super Car & Classics July 1991 "Healey rebuild"

 3) Classic & Sportscar November '92  "TR2 and Healey 100 Compared"

 4) Sports Car Graphic January '84 "Stainless steel brake conversion"

 5) Autoweek "Dale Earnhardt 1951-2001" Special issue

 6) Car Life July '61 "Sebring Corvettes"

 7) Car and Driver April 61 "Road Research Report - Healey Sprite"

 8) Car and Driver May '62 "Race tuning the Sunbeam Alpine"

 9) Sports Car Graphic December '62 "Austin Healey Convertible"

10) Sports Car Graphic October '62 "Competition including 6 Hours of
Riverside"

11) Road & Track June '82 35th Anniversary Issue

12) Road & Track March '58

13) Road & Track June '61

14) Healey Marque July '02 Special issue "Celebrating 50 Years"


Please contact me off the list. Thanks.

Doug

From j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl  Sun Sep  2 14:56:35 2007
From: j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl (Ph.J.Aeckerlin)
Date: Sun, 02 Sep 2007 22:56:35 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Engine oil leak
Message-ID: <46DB2383.3030503@tiscali.nl>

Friends,
Due to the fact that it has been dry for a couple of days I've been able 
to take the Healey out for a couple of rides despite the fact that I 
have no top yet. I noticed a few drops of oil on my garage floor. At 
first I believed the spin-on oil filter was the culprit but now I've 
seen that the oil comes along the washer of the bolt holding the 
'inspection doors' on the RH side of the engine.
I vaguely remember this point was mentioned a few years ago on the list, 
and one lister had a solution in the form of a special metal/rubber 
washer that is normally used in, I believe, a Japanese car - something 
like a Subaru. I believe he even mentioned a part number.
I would be very much obliged if I could get that part number, or any 
other solution which stops this (tiny) oil leak.
Thanks in advance, as usual.
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432

From WBagby45 at aol.com  Sun Sep  2 15:31:52 2007
From: WBagby45 at aol.com (WBagby45 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 17:31:52 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Smitty Conversion Bell Housing seal
Message-ID: <c0d.1e79de9b.340c85c8@aol.com>

Have done three--there is no seal!
 
Wright



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Sun Sep  2 16:05:46 2007
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 15:05:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Engine oil leak
References: <46DB2383.3030503@tiscali.nl>
Message-ID: <004901c7edad$6d36c6e0$6501a8c0@XPS400>

I found a rubber lined metal washer at the local hardware store.  Perhaps in 
the plumbing supply area.  I also used some threat sealer which stopped any 
leaks from these bolts.  Don't make the mistake some make by tightening the 
bolt to the point it distorts the cover.
Ron
Subject: [Healeys] Engine oil leak 

From larryrph at sbcglobal.net  Sun Sep  2 16:10:33 2007
From: larryrph at sbcglobal.net (Lawrence Wysocki)
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 15:10:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] fuel line
In-Reply-To: <090220071120.15055.46DA9C810009F35700003ACF2215575114CA070B0B0E0C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <773242.61004.qm@web83414.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Mitch ,
   
  I had a problem with the fuel pump above the muffler.  If you drive in 90 degree weather or across the desert , itcould act up.  Why not mount it on the passenger side?
   
  larry Wysocki
   
  BN 6

From autofarm at cyg.net  Sun Sep  2 16:11:37 2007
From: autofarm at cyg.net (Bob Yule)
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 18:11:37 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Engine oil leak
References: <46DB2383.3030503@tiscali.nl>
Message-ID: <001401c7edae$3dff6a70$6400a8c0@OFFICE>

    Hi Jack, we use a part from Moss US.  I believe they are used on 
MGB/MGC.  There is a bushing and a cup washer.  The part numbers are 324-335 
& 324-345.
Cheers.......Bob
Check out our web site www.autofarm.net
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
To: "Healey forum" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 4:56 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Engine oil leak


> Friends,
> Due to the fact that it has been dry for a couple of days I've been able
> to take the Healey out for a couple of rides despite the fact that I
> have no top yet. I noticed a few drops of oil on my garage floor. At
> first I believed the spin-on oil filter was the culprit but now I've
> seen that the oil comes along the washer of the bolt holding the
> 'inspection doors' on the RH side of the engine.
> I vaguely remember this point was mentioned a few years ago on the list,
> and one lister had a solution in the form of a special metal/rubber
> washer that is normally used in, I believe, a Japanese car - something
> like a Subaru. I believe he even mentioned a part number.
> I would be very much obliged if I could get that part number, or any
> other solution which stops this (tiny) oil leak.
> Thanks in advance, as usual.
> Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
> 1964 BJ8 29432
> _______________________________________________
> autofarm at cyg.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.13.2/983 - Release Date: 9/1/2007 
> 4:20 PM

From rjh at hockertlaw.us  Sun Sep  2 16:14:34 2007
From: rjh at hockertlaw.us (rjhco)
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 17:14:34 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Engine oil leak
In-Reply-To: <46DB2383.3030503@tiscali.nl>
Message-ID: <20070902221435.NARI16499.mta16.adelphia.net@RJHDESKTOP>

Jack:

You are thinking of Stat-O-Seals (US name).  They are called Dowty Seals in
the UK and are very slightly different.  Here is a link:

http://www.mpsracing.com/products/Earls/PA_Seals.asp

Best regards,
Jim Hockert
Dallas, TX
BJ8 Open Roads Rallye

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sun Sep  2 16:38:26 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 15:38:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Engine oil leak
In-Reply-To: <20070902221435.NARI16499.mta16.adelphia.net@RJHDESKTOP>
Message-ID: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKOEIIDFAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>

I stopped the leaks from the tappet cover bolts by using Permatex #9
non-hardening sealant under the washer.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
rjhco
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 3:15 PM
To: 'Ph.J.Aeckerlin'; 'Healey forum'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine oil leak


Jack:

You are thinking of Stat-O-Seals (US name).  They are called Dowty Seals in
the UK and are very slightly different.  Here is a link:

http://www.mpsracing.com/products/Earls/PA_Seals.asp

Best regards,
Jim Hockert
Dallas, TX
BJ8 Open Roads Rallye
_______________________________________________
sbyers at ec.rr.com

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.13.2/983 - Release Date: 9/1/2007
4:20 PM

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Sep  2 16:57:22 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 06:57:22 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] fuel line
In-Reply-To: <090220071120.15055.46DA9C810009F35700003ACF2215575114CA070B0B0E0C@comcast.net>
References: <090220071120.15055.46DA9C810009F35700003ACF2215575114CA070B0B0E0C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709021557y361c8da8y9088b7419359ef9a@mail.gmail.com>

Mitch -

Tape is not required- in fact for this you are better without using tape.

Regarding the fuel pump - wrap the exhaust pipes under the pump with
header tape (very easy to do) and that will be all the protection you
need.

Cheers,

Alan

On 9/2/07, caddi5 at comcast.net <caddi5 at comcast.net> wrote:
> Hello list,
> I am putting on a complete fuel line ,should I use anything on the threads
> (teflon tape, pipe dope) or nothing at all? also, I am putting on a new SU
> fuel pump ( above the exhaust, original ) should I fab a heat shield or
> won't it be a problem?
> thanks! Mitch
> 59 bn4
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From 63ahbj7 at gmail.com  Sun Sep  2 18:01:49 2007
From: 63ahbj7 at gmail.com (63AHBJ7)
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 19:01:49 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] fuel line
References: <090220071120.15055.46DA9C810009F35700003ACF2215575114CA070B0B0E0C@comcast.net>
	<ff59076c0709021557y361c8da8y9088b7419359ef9a@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <010001c7edbd$a1211450$6601a8c0@actualshop>

<<wrap the exhaust pipes under the pump with header tape >>

Which WILL insure their early demise!!

'Course, I do sell parts so I guess I shouldn't say that<G>!!

From 63AHBJ7 at comcast.net  Sun Sep  2 18:50:09 2007
From: 63AHBJ7 at comcast.net (63AHBJ7)
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 19:50:09 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] bonnet adjustment
References: <090220071632.5316.46DAE580000EA116000014C42160280748C0CB0C03069D@att.net>
Message-ID: <029a01c7edc4$612b7780$6601a8c0@actualshop>

RJ:

<<Any one have a good method of installing the bonnet (hood) on a BN-1?>>

Well, not really<G>!!  BUT a couple thin blankets for fenders/engine room;
THREE other "bodies".  2 to hold bonnet and 2 to man 1/4" ratchets and a
goodly amount of time (and beers waitinf<G>)!!

Sorry, no "short-cuts"!!

Ed

From shop at justbrits.com  Sun Sep  2 18:54:42 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 19:54:42 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] fuel line
References: <c56.1b940762.340c5510@aol.com>
	<001201c7ed8c$6ba665e0$6401a8c0@Dell>
Message-ID: <02a201c7edc5$0483b870$6601a8c0@actualshop>

<<On investigation it appeared that the tape was dissolving in the mineral
oil. Does that sound feasible?>>

Sure does, Alan.

There are more than one types of the "miracle tape".  One IS for automotive
useage.  The one you find at your friendy automotive store does exactly as you
describe!!

Yer better off looking in an automotive parts store for Permatex Thread
Sealer.

Ed

From bluechipracing at snet.net  Sun Sep  2 19:45:01 2007
From: bluechipracing at snet.net (bluechip)
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 21:45:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] bonnet adjustment
References: <090220071632.5316.46DAE580000EA116000014C42160280748C0CB0C03069D@att.net>
Message-ID: <001c01c7edcc$0b5157a0$1f9bfea9@dell>

Here's how I do it:   With a blanket across the front of the bonnet 
aperture, attach the bonnet to the hinges with the proper hardware with the 
nuts on the outside, just barely finger tight.  Attach a small vice-grip 
pliers to one of the bolt heads on each side (or other suitable means to 
keep the bolts from turning....another way is a homemade locking tab under 
both bolt heads on each side).  Carefully close the bonnet, pulling the 
blanket out when its almost closed.  Since the hinge bolts are loose, you 
can now position the bonnet to the proper position fore and aft, and up and 
down.  I use wood shims to urge it into position and keep it in position. 
Now with the front wheels off, you can reach the nuts with a 1/4" drive 
7/16" (or proper size Whitworth) socket on a looooong extension ....need at 
least two. A wobble nose extension works best, but I have used standard 
ones. You'll need a flashlight, and it takes a little patience.   The socket 
on a standard extension will approach the nuts at an angle, so you won't get 
them real tight, but tight enough that they will stay in place whilst you 
carefully re-open the bonnet (put the blanket back in place just in case). 
Then tighten them the rest of the way.

Sure beats the seven iteration trial and error method.

Jim Smith


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <rjmc46 at att.net>
To: "Austin Healey list" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 12:32 PM
Subject: [Healeys] bonnet adjustment


> Any one have a good method of installing the bonnet (hood) on a BN-1?
> Thanks,
> RJ

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Sun Sep  2 20:09:52 2007
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 19:09:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] fuel line
In-Reply-To: <090220071120.15055.46DA9C810009F35700003ACF2215575114CA070B0B0E0C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <405422.12966.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

To quote from the SU work shop manual   "Do not mount
the pump in a position exposed to close and direct
heat radiation from the exhaust manifold "  So they
put it over the exhaust pipe , if you live in a HOT
area 90F  and drive up long hills the gas might start
to boil in the fuel pump , in cool areas it will not
happen .... l moved my SU pump , ref my Tech Talk book
pages 63 and 135 OR Catter April 1990  &  AH Magazine
April May 1995
     IF IT AIN"T BROKE DON"T FIX IT      Norman Nock

 

             TECH TALK by  Norman Nock
  l have been writing technical articles 
for Healey clubs for over 20 years .
After numerous requests , l have
gathered them together, along with
some never before published
articles and had them spiral 
bound in book form
       $ 35.00 + $7.50 in USA


         259 pages

     Updated Annually

     British Car Specialists ( established 1957 )
    2060 N Wilson Way .. Stockton CA 95205
   Phone # (209) 948-8767
  FAX # (209)948-1030

     

     
--- caddi5 at comcast.net wrote:

> Hello list,
>>
 I am putting on a new SU fuel
> pump ( above the exhaust, original ) should I fab a
> heat shield or won't it be a problem?
> thanks! Mitch  
> 59 bn4
> _______________________________________________
> sjnnock at sbcglobal.net 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sun Sep  2 20:14:42 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 21:14:42 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] County Brand (was Parts comparisons)
References: <000901c7ecfc$5b7b27e0$6400a8c0@OFFICE>
	<46DA159C.5080104@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <01a001c7edd0$31199890$6401a8c0@toshibauser>

I just got a County brand water pump for my BN1, took the old one off with a 
socket, the new one, because of how the body as cast, socket won't fit, 
three nuts, one fairly easy with a wrench, one next to impossible (without 
removing the head) the bottom one pretty much impossble.

Eventually limped home with out by using washer as spacers on the bottom nut 
so it was out fare enough that I could sort of turn it with a wrench. 
Frustrating to say the least

Greg Lemon
54 BN1

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Sep  2 20:29:48 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 10:29:48 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] County Brand (was Parts comparisons)
In-Reply-To: <01a001c7edd0$31199890$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
References: <000901c7ecfc$5b7b27e0$6400a8c0@OFFICE>
	<46DA159C.5080104@comcast.net>
	<01a001c7edd0$31199890$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709021929i9c73ab6oab990a0a3bcd72a7@mail.gmail.com>

Greg -

All 100s have a special shouldered nut to fit on this part of the water
pump.  The County pump may in fact have been cast as original.  Make sure
your car has this special nut - if not - that is your problem, not the water
pump.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

On 9/3/07, Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com> wrote:
>
> I just got a County brand water pump for my BN1, took the old one off with
> a
> socket, the new one, because of how the body as cast, socket won't fit,
> three nuts, one fairly easy with a wrench, one next to impossible (without
> removing the head) the bottom one pretty much impossble.
>
> Eventually limped home with out by using washer as spacers on the bottom
> nut
> so it was out fare enough that I could sort of turn it with a wrench.
> Frustrating to say the least
>
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Sep  2 20:34:18 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 10:34:18 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] fuel line
In-Reply-To: <010001c7edbd$a1211450$6601a8c0@actualshop>
References: <090220071120.15055.46DA9C810009F35700003ACF2215575114CA070B0B0E0C@comcast.net>
	<ff59076c0709021557y361c8da8y9088b7419359ef9a@mail.gmail.com>
	<010001c7edbd$a1211450$6601a8c0@actualshop>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709021934y2e7c6e4dw26b7328ef902c93@mail.gmail.com>

Ed, mate -

Wrapping any exhaust pipe that far back under the car is not going to cause
premature failure.  Have had that set up on my BN1 for 6 years now - no
problems.

Wrapping cast headers is another issue all together, but this is not the
case here.

Alan


On 9/3/07, 63AHBJ7 <63ahbj7 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> <<wrap the exhaust pipes under the pump with header tape >>
>
> Which WILL insure their early demise!!
>
> 'Course, I do sell parts so I guess I shouldn't say that<G>!!
> _______________________________________________

From papashado at comcast.net  Sun Sep  2 22:33:05 2007
From: papashado at comcast.net (James Routt)
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 22:33:05 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Headliner frame for a BN7 hardtop
Message-ID: <000e01c7ede3$85e31780$0201a8c0@D9FGSR41>

Thought I would bounce this request off the list. My headliner frame got
mangled in an unfortunate garage door closing today and just was curious if
one of those bad boys was available anywhere out there in healeyville. I did
my best at straightening it out but not sure if the curves are right. Anyone
out there have any experience with these frames, only dumb and dumber (I am
the culprit) could have made this major blunder. I had all the material
ready to refit to the frame.  Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in
advance.

 

Jim 

60 BN7

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Mon Sep  3 00:37:30 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 01:37:30 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] County Brand (was Parts comparisons)
References: <000901c7ecfc$5b7b27e0$6400a8c0@OFFICE>
	<46DA159C.5080104@comcast.net>
	<01a001c7edd0$31199890$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
	<ff59076c0709021929i9c73ab6oab990a0a3bcd72a7@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <059e01c7edf5$04e0cbc0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>

Alan is of course correct, although it would have been nice if the County pump
had the threaded fitting for the (2nd) heater valve instead of just a tube to
push the hose on.

Greg Lemon
54 BN1

From craigsuerice at iquest.net  Mon Sep  3 03:42:28 2007
From: craigsuerice at iquest.net (Craig and Sue Rice)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 04:42:28 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] County Brand (was Parts comparisons)
References: <000901c7ecfc$5b7b27e0$6400a8c0@OFFICE><46DA159C.5080104@comcast.net><01a001c7edd0$31199890$6401a8c0@toshibauser><ff59076c0709021929i9c73ab6oab990a0a3bcd72a7@mail.gmail.com>
	<059e01c7edf5$04e0cbc0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
Message-ID: <019c01c7ee0e$bf8a1940$7d622bd1@iquest.net>

Greg,
I never use the aftermarket crap due to form-fit-function problems. Suggest
you send your old pump to Peter Caldwell at Worldwide Auto Parts in Madison,
WI for rebuild using modern innards (don't need a grease fitting).
Craig Rice
BN1 & BN2
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
To: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
Cc: "HEALEY LIST" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 1:37 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] County Brand (was Parts comparisons)


> Alan is of course correct, although it would have been nice if the County
pump
> had the threaded fitting for the (2nd) heater valve instead of just a tube
to
> push the hose on.
>
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1
> _______________________________________________

From wericars at aol.com  Mon Sep  3 06:51:36 2007
From: wericars at aol.com (wericars at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2007 08:51:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Ever think of adding a Jensen Healey?
Message-ID: <8C9BC404C676B76-A08-5C7D@FWM-D41.sysops.aol.com>

I always liked Jensen Healeys and have thought of getting one a couple of times.? I have always felt that Healey was ahead of the curve with a mass produced, belt driven dual overhead cam 4 cylinder high output engine in a "roomy" roadster?with very modern styling and good handling.? Compare today's Miata, Solstice, Sky and Honda S2000.? Sadly, the price of the car and labor problems cut this model short.? I saw this example on e-bay yesterday:? 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JENSEN-HEALEY-1974_W0QQitemZ180153798595QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item180153798595


If I was going to get one, this is what I would want.? A low mileage, original car (not too crazy about the color though).? Do any of you have a JH?? Have any of you ever thought of adding a JH to the collection?


Bill
Boston area
65 BJ8

________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From wericars at aol.com  Mon Sep  3 06:58:11 2007
From: wericars at aol.com (wericars at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2007 08:58:11 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Thanks re Saftey gauge
Message-ID: <8C9BC4137CEF0F4-A08-5CA8@FWM-D41.sysops.aol.com>

Thanks to all the good folks who wrote to me about where to get the Saftey Gauge rebuilt.? I got many responses and failed to thank each of you.? As I am on the east coast, I was planning to use Nissonger rather than Mo Ma.? Anyone?ever have a?negative experience with Nissonger?


Bill
Boston area
65 BJ8

________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From rusd at sitestar.net  Mon Sep  3 07:13:47 2007
From: rusd at sitestar.net (Dave Russell)
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2007 07:13:47 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] County Brand (was Parts comparisons)
In-Reply-To: <059e01c7edf5$04e0cbc0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
References: <000901c7ecfc$5b7b27e0$6400a8c0@OFFICE>
	<46DA159C.5080104@comcast.net>
	<01a001c7edd0$31199890$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
	<ff59076c0709021929i9c73ab6oab990a0a3bcd72a7@mail.gmail.com>
	<059e01c7edf5$04e0cbc0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
Message-ID: <46DC088B.60900@sitestar.net>

Hi Greg,

I had a pump as you describe. The "tube" just unscrewed & the original 
threaded hole was available.

Dave Russell
BN2

Greg Lemon wrote:

>Alan is of course correct, although it would have been nice if the County pump
>had the threaded fitting for the (2nd) heater valve instead of just a tube to
>push the hose on.
>
>Greg Lemon
>54 BN1

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Mon Sep  3 07:22:31 2007
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 09:22:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] County Brand (was Parts comparisons)
References: <000901c7ecfc$5b7b27e0$6400a8c0@OFFICE><46DA159C.5080104@comcast.net><01a001c7edd0$31199890$6401a8c0@toshibauser><ff59076c0709021929i9c73ab6oab990a0a3bcd72a7@mail.gmail.com>
	<059e01c7edf5$04e0cbc0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
Message-ID: <01ad01c7ee2d$7ba1d190$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>

Any of the new water pumps sourced from Autofarm (are they County brand, I 
don't know) have the tube for the heater hose. However, that simply threads 
out exposing an original female thread that the original brass valve simply 
threads into. Perfect fit of everything every time.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
To: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
Cc: "HEALEY LIST" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 2:37 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] County Brand (was Parts comparisons)


> Alan is of course correct, although it would have been nice if the County 
> pump
> had the threaded fitting for the (2nd) heater valve instead of just a tube 
> to
> push the hose on.
>
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1
> _______________________________________________
> richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Mon Sep  3 07:38:32 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 08:38:32 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] County Brand (was Parts comparisons)
References: <000901c7ecfc$5b7b27e0$6400a8c0@OFFICE>
	<46DA159C.5080104@comcast.net>
	<01a001c7edd0$31199890$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
	<ff59076c0709021929i9c73ab6oab990a0a3bcd72a7@mail.gmail.com>
	<059e01c7edf5$04e0cbc0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
	<46DC088B.60900@sitestar.net>
Message-ID: <05ba01c7ee2f$debe8550$6401a8c0@toshibauser>

Thanks I was installing it in a parking lot, the old part didn't want to 
come off, so I didn't explore the issue too far and just stuck a longer 
piece of hose on it.  I will probably sort it out when my gumption to work 
on cars rises again.

Greg Lemon


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dave Russell" <rusd at sitestar.net>
To: "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
Cc: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>; "HEALEY LIST" 
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 8:13 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] County Brand (was Parts comparisons)


> Hi Greg,
>
> I had a pump as you describe. The "tube" just unscrewed & the original 
> threaded hole was available.
>
> Dave Russell
> BN2
>
> Greg Lemon wrote:
>
>>Alan is of course correct, although it would have been nice if the County 
>>pump
>>had the threaded fitting for the (2nd) heater valve instead of just a tube 
>>to
>>push the hose on.
>>
>>Greg Lemon
>>54 BN1

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Sep  3 07:52:38 2007
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2007 06:52:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] County Brand (was Parts comparisons)
In-Reply-To: <05ba01c7ee2f$debe8550$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
References: <000901c7ecfc$5b7b27e0$6400a8c0@OFFICE>
	<46DA159C.5080104@comcast.net>
	<01a001c7edd0$31199890$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
	<ff59076c0709021929i9c73ab6oab990a0a3bcd72a7@mail.gmail.com>
	<059e01c7edf5$04e0cbc0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
	<46DC088B.60900@sitestar.net>
	<05ba01c7ee2f$debe8550$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
Message-ID: <46DC11A6.7090208@comcast.net>

So far, the discussion on County brand parts is mostly favorable, except 
for one
installation misadventure.  Looked at another way, County provided a 
tube in case
your valve was problematic--you could call that a "bonus."  There are 
probably
more than a few cars missing that valve.

I asked for the informal survey because it sounds like County may be 
providing
more and more aftermarket parts and it may be useful to gauge overall 
quality.
I have no financial, or other, interest in County--just want to get a 
get a handle
on their quality.


bs


Greg Lemon wrote:
> Thanks I was installing it in a parking lot, the old part didn't want to 
> come off, so I didn't explore the issue too far and just stuck a longer 
> piece of hose on it.  I will probably sort it out when my gumption to work 
> on cars rises again.
>
> Greg Lemon
>
>
>   
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Mon Sep  3 08:51:33 2007
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net)
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2007 14:51:33 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] knock
Message-ID: <20070903145133.6716.qmail@server278.com>

my bj8 has a low volume knock in the front of the engine when it is first started up after the engine has gotten hot.  will not do it when engine is cold.  the knock disappears within a few seconds and will not come back until engine is shut down for a few minutes when hot.  as soon as oil pressure comes up, knock is gone.  do not know if oil prressure or time is the relevant factor.  have replaced con rod bearings even though ones in car were at spec.  could it be a timing chain or chain tensioner.  all valves check good for lift and clearance.  any help appreciated.   hjim

From frogeye at swcp.com  Mon Sep  3 09:18:08 2007
From: frogeye at swcp.com (david porter)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 09:18:08 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] knock
In-Reply-To: <20070903145133.6716.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <200709031518.l83FICHU055489@ame9.swcp.com>

Yep, it could be, but what you are describing is a classic rod knock.
Dave

...have replaced con rod bearings even though ones in car were at spec.
could it be a timing chain or chain tensioner.  all valves check good for
lift and clearance.  any help appreciated.   hjim
 

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.10/977 - Release Date: 8/28/2007
4:29 PM

From grain at auracom.com  Mon Sep  3 09:22:53 2007
From: grain at auracom.com (Rick Swain and Wendy Grant)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 12:22:53 -0300
Subject: [Healeys] Wind Wings
Message-ID: <F9C25F48-154C-4592-BE87-28E355D7B7B1@auracom.com>

I'd like some information please. The wind in the cockpit of my BN4  
has started to bother my wife. Even if she wears her largest  
sunglasses, after a drive of a couple of hours, the skin under her  
eyes becomes red and itchy. The first time I thought it must be  
pollen or dust in the air on that particular day but it has now  
happened on several occasions over the last month and a half so it's  
not likely to be something in the air. We're thinking it's from wind  
being blown forward from the back of the car and coming around behind  
her glasses. Somebody has suggested motorcycle goggles and we may try  
that. We'll also put in the sidecurtains and see if that helps but  
they tend to rattle.

I've seen photos of cars with wind wings like Moss sells and I'm  
wondering if anyone on the list has experience with them. Do they  
reduce the buffeting in the cockpit? Can you leave them on in colder  
or rainy weather when you're using the top and sidecurtains? Any  
problems with installation?

The wind blocker that goes across the cockpit behind the seats isn't  
under consideration at the moment.

No, leaving my wife at home is not an option. If it weren't for her I  
might not have the car.

Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Rick Swain

From mlempert at bellsouth.net  Mon Sep  3 09:37:08 2007
From: mlempert at bellsouth.net (M Lempert)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 11:37:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Ever think of adding a Jensen Healey?
References: <mailman.13741.1188827604.12556.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <06c901c7ee40$4a3196f0$6001a8c0@DadsPC>

I have at times thought about adding the J-Healey, but there are two things 
that bother me. I really don't like the rubber bumpers; and the Lotus 
engine.  I worry about maintenance of that engine. I've always had the 
perception that those engines were finicky and had short lives.  The rubber 
bumper in the front is particularly clumsy looking. I wonder how difficult 
it would be to fabricate a cap to replace it with that would better 
compliment the body lines. Perhaps it would contain the parking lights - 
turn signals and a small grill or air intake. Just thinking out loud.

Regards,
Mike Lempert

> Message: 11
> Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2007 08:51:36 -0400
> From: wericars at aol.com
> Subject: [Healeys] Ever think of adding a Jensen Healey?
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Message-ID: <8C9BC404C676B76-A08-5C7D at FWM-D41.sysops.aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> I always liked Jensen Healeys and have thought of getting one a couple of 
> times.? I have always felt that Healey was ahead of the curve with a mass 
> produced, belt driven dual overhead cam 4 cylinder high output engine in a 
> "roomy" roadster?with very modern styling and good handling.? Compare 
> today's Miata, Solstice, Sky and Honda S2000.? Sadly, the price of the car 
> and labor problems cut this model short.? I saw this example on e-bay 
> yesterday:?
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JENSEN-HEALEY-1974_W0QQitemZ180153798595QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item180153798595
>
>
> If I was going to get one, this is what I would want.? A low mileage, 
> original car (not too crazy about the color though).? Do any of you have a 
> JH?? Have any of you ever thought of adding a JH to the collection?
>
>
> Bill
> Boston area
> 65 BJ8

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Sep  3 10:07:39 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 00:07:39 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Ever think of adding a Jensen Healey?
In-Reply-To: <06c901c7ee40$4a3196f0$6001a8c0@DadsPC>
References: <mailman.13741.1188827604.12556.healeys@autox.team.net>
	<06c901c7ee40$4a3196f0$6001a8c0@DadsPC>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709030907n4530093fk3c1702d5ea6b67b8@mail.gmail.com>

The main thing with the JH is to replace the timing belt with a gear
and chain.  I think you can fit chrysler gears and chain to keep it
from breaking and causing the valves to smack the pistons.  You sort
that mess out and the rest of it will work like a dream.


On 9/3/07, M Lempert <mlempert at bellsouth.net> wrote:
> I have at times thought about adding the J-Healey, but there are two things
> that bother me. I really don't like the rubber bumpers; and the Lotus
> engine.  I worry about maintenance of that engine. I've always had the
> perception that those engines were finicky and had short lives.  The rubber
> bumper in the front is particularly clumsy looking. I wonder how difficult
> it would be to fabricate a cap to replace it with that would better
> compliment the body lines. Perhaps it would contain the parking lights -
> turn signals and a small grill or air intake. Just thinking out loud.
>
> Regards,
> Mike Lempert
>
> > Message: 11
> > Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2007 08:51:36 -0400
> > From: wericars at aol.com
> > Subject: [Healeys] Ever think of adding a Jensen Healey?
> > To: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Message-ID: <8C9BC404C676B76-A08-5C7D at FWM-D41.sysops.aol.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >
> > I always liked Jensen Healeys and have thought of getting one a couple of
> > times.? I have always felt that Healey was ahead of the curve with a mass
> > produced, belt driven dual overhead cam 4 cylinder high output engine in a
> > "roomy" roadster?with very modern styling and good handling.? Compare
> > today's Miata, Solstice, Sky and Honda S2000.? Sadly, the price of the car
> > and labor problems cut this model short.? I saw this example on e-bay
> > yesterday:?
> >
> >
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JENSEN-HEALEY-1974_W0QQitemZ180153798595QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item180153798595
> >
> >
> > If I was going to get one, this is what I would want.? A low mileage,
> > original car (not too crazy about the color though).? Do any of you have a
> > JH?? Have any of you ever thought of adding a JH to the collection?
> >
> >
> > Bill
> > Boston area
> > 65 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Sep  3 10:52:09 2007
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2007 09:52:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] [Fwd: County]
Message-ID: <46DC3BB9.3050204@comcast.net>

Another actual, substantive data point about County parts:

Hi Bob,


          I rebuilt a spare engine for a friend of mine after his 
original engine came apart twice. The first rebuild, by a race shop, 
came apart after 200 miles when two County rod bearings came apart. The 
bearing material slid off of the steel shell. They rebuilt it again with 
two new rods and a different crank. 1800 miles later my friend showed up 
at mine door with a bad oil leak at the real seal kit. Thinking the seal 
had failed we pulled the gearbox to get at the seal and found the 
crankshaft moving back and forth 3/8 of an inch. We pulled the pan and 
found the County thrust washers in the oil pan. They turned out to be 
very soft and wore quickly. The rear seal kit had been destroyed by the 
movement of the crank as were the crank and the main webs from rubbing. 
When we rebuilt the spare engine we used all Vanderville bearings, AE 
pistons, and Payne gaskets and the engine has 15k miles on it now with 
no issues. I think the County problem is a quality issue and the sources 
they use to make parts. Some might be fine and others are crap. I might 
use a County water pump in a pinch but, not County bearings made in Israel.


                                      Wayne


  

***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

From frogeye at swcp.com  Mon Sep  3 12:42:38 2007
From: frogeye at swcp.com (david porter)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 12:42:38 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] [Fwd: County]
In-Reply-To: <46DC3BB9.3050204@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <200709031842.l83IggcN004990@ame8.swcp.com>

I gotta chime in on this one. I've re-built hundreds of bottom ends and have
been using the County bearings for many of them (being a loyal Moss Dist.)
Bearings simply do not slide apart. That requires friction and resultant
heat. I suspect that on the 3rd go around your friend finally did (or
re-did) the machine shop work that the bottom end required in the first
place.
 Dave 

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+frogeye=swcp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+frogeye=swcp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Spidell
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 10:52 AM
To: healeylist
Subject: [Healeys] [Fwd: County]

Another actual, substantive data point about County parts:

Hi Bob,


          I rebuilt a spare engine for a friend of mine after his 
original engine came apart twice. The first rebuild, by a race shop, 
came apart after 200 miles when two County rod bearings came apart. The 
bearing material slid off of the steel shell. They rebuilt it again with 
two new rods and a different crank. 1800 miles later my friend showed up 
at mine door with a bad oil leak at the real seal kit. Thinking the seal 
had failed we pulled the gearbox to get at the seal and found the 
crankshaft moving back and forth 3/8 of an inch. We pulled the pan and 
found the County thrust washers in the oil pan. They turned out to be 
very soft and wore quickly. The rear seal kit had been destroyed by the 
movement of the crank as were the crank and the main webs from rubbing. 
When we rebuilt the spare engine we used all Vanderville bearings, AE 
pistons, and Payne gaskets and the engine has 15k miles on it now with 
no issues. I think the County problem is a quality issue and the sources 
they use to make parts. Some might be fine and others are crap. I might 
use a County water pump in a pinch but, not County bearings made in Israel.


                                      Wayne





No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.10/977 - Release Date: 8/28/2007
4:29 PM

From ermontresor at snet.net  Mon Sep  3 12:43:35 2007
From: ermontresor at snet.net (Gene Montresor)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 11:43:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Header  Rail, BJ8
Message-ID: <823302.70673.qm@web80604.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Gentlemen:  I have a few questions about the wood header rail and it's fit.  I have all new wood and the window pieces are just like the old pieces and will fit fine however I do have a new rail but no old to compare.  The new one just doesn't have the same contour as the windshield frame or the aluminum retainer seal and I don't think I can work it to fit (not sure how it supposed to fit).  If a new header is purchased are they supposed to fit or are modification necessary?  Any good sources.
   
  Thanks  Gene   64 BJ8 

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Sep  3 12:50:27 2007
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2007 11:50:27 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] [Fwd: County]
In-Reply-To: <200709031842.l83IggcN004990@ame8.swcp.com>
References: <200709031842.l83IggcN004990@ame8.swcp.com>
Message-ID: <46DC5773.4010104@comcast.net>

OK, I forwarded this to the List (with Wayne's permission), so I'll 
chime in.

I read this as they built the original engine twice--with County 
bearings--and had
problems.  The third build was the spare engine.

Nonetheless, your data is noted--the original engine could have had 
bottom end
issues the spare engine (third build) didn't.

Anyone else have experience with County parts?


bs


david porter wrote:
> I gotta chime in on this one. I've re-built hundreds of bottom ends and have
> been using the County bearings for many of them (being a loyal Moss Dist.)
> Bearings simply do not slide apart. That requires friction and resultant
> heat. I suspect that on the 3rd go around your friend finally did (or
> re-did) the machine shop work that the bottom end required in the first
> place.
>  Dave 
>
>
>
>   
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

From Drtrite at aol.com  Mon Sep  3 12:56:02 2007
From: Drtrite at aol.com (Drtrite at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 14:56:02 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Ever think of adding a Jensen Healey?
Message-ID: <d15.1244ade6.340db2c2@aol.com>

In a message dated 9/3/2007 10:40:16 AM Central Daylight Time, 
mlempert at bellsouth.net writes:

Do any of you have a 
> JH?? Have any of you ever thought of adding a JH to the collection?

Well, yes. They just seem to follow me home and stay.
 
I have 4, of which, two are runners, the third is running but not ready for 
the road, and a parts car. I have taken them on some long trips and enjoy their 
room and comfort. They handle very well too.
 
Unlike the big Healey, you don't get much respect or the old story of, I had 
one of those when I was younger. 
 
Don Lenschow
 
 



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Mon Sep  3 14:16:33 2007
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 16:16:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Off to Newfoundland. New Post on my blog
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0709030907n4530093fk3c1702d5ea6b67b8@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20070903201656.6A84C1879E5@autox.team.net>

For those who are interested I have a new posting on my blog.
http://michael.netbug.net/wp-admin/post.php?action=edit&post=389#preview-pos
t


Michael Salter
100S (1955)
3000 Mk111(1965)
100 (1953)
AHX12 (1953)
Bugeye (1961)
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Mon Sep  3 14:21:50 2007
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 16:21:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Off to Newfoundland. New Post on my blog
In-Reply-To: <20070903201656.6A84C1879E5@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20070903202213.521EC187A10@autox.team.net>

Sorry....that link doesn't seem to work..Please try this one.
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/

Michael Salter
100S (1955)
3000 Mk111(1965)
100 (1953)
AHX12 (1953)
Bugeye (1961)

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Mon Sep  3 14:30:05 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 15:30:05 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] [Fwd: County]
References: <200709031842.l83IggcN004990@ame8.swcp.com>
	<46DC5773.4010104@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <062101c7ee69$5fd57570$6401a8c0@toshibauser>

In addition to the water pump which I was wrong about--I have County main 
bearings and 8.5:1 5 ring .060 over pistons in my motor--about 500 miles of 
OK so far driving--I retested the compression and at about 200 miles and it 
had gone up slightly since right after the rebuild, and oil pressure has 
been good and steady so far.

I don't recall on the rod bearings, but I think they may be county as well.

Greg Lemon
54 BN1
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: "david porter" <frogeye at swcp.com>
Cc: "'healeylist'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 1:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Fwd: County]


> OK, I forwarded this to the List (with Wayne's permission), so I'll
> chime in.
>
> I read this as they built the original engine twice--with County
> bearings--and had
> problems.  The third build was the spare engine.
>
> Nonetheless, your data is noted--the original engine could have had
> bottom end
> issues the spare engine (third build) didn't.
>
> Anyone else have experience with County parts?
>
>
> bs
>
>
> david porter wrote:
>> I gotta chime in on this one. I've re-built hundreds of bottom ends and 
>> have
>> been using the County bearings for many of them (being a loyal Moss 
>> Dist.)
>> Bearings simply do not slide apart. That requires friction and resultant
>> heat. I suspect that on the 3rd go around your friend finally did (or
>> re-did) the machine shop work that the bottom end required in the first
>> place.
>>  Dave
>>
>>
>>
>>
> ***************************************************************
> Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
> '67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
> ***************************************************************
>


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


> _______________________________________________
> glemon at neb.rr.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From dwflagg at juno.com  Mon Sep  3 14:36:49 2007
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 16:36:49 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Stamps
Message-ID: <20070903.163649.3312.2.dwflagg@juno.com>

I have the Royal Mail Mint Stamp issue "Speed Great British Land Speed
Records" in the original presentation package in mint condition. The date
of issue was 29 September 1998. Featured are Sir Malcolm Campbell, Sir
Henry Segrave, John G. Perry Thomas, John R. Cobb, and Donald Campbell.
If interested, please contact me off the list. Thanks.

Doug

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Mon Sep  3 15:51:57 2007
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 17:51:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Wind Wings
References: <F9C25F48-154C-4592-BE87-28E355D7B7B1@auracom.com>
Message-ID: <022301c7ee74$a6338600$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>

I know the Amco wind wings for the Healey 6 cylinder roadster were designed 
to mount inboard using 2 of the screws that fit the windscreen post to the 
chrome frame. The design allowed the wings to be able to fold inboard enough 
to allow the sidescreens to be fitted. They will certainly reduce sideways 
buffeting. So will your arm resting on the top of the door.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rick Swain and Wendy Grant" <grain at auracom.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 11:22 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Wind Wings


> I'd like some information please. The wind in the cockpit of my BN4
> has started to bother my wife. Even if she wears her largest
> sunglasses, after a drive of a couple of hours, the skin under her
> eyes becomes red and itchy. The first time I thought it must be
> pollen or dust in the air on that particular day but it has now
> happened on several occasions over the last month and a half so it's
> not likely to be something in the air. We're thinking it's from wind
> being blown forward from the back of the car and coming around behind
> her glasses. Somebody has suggested motorcycle goggles and we may try
> that. We'll also put in the sidecurtains and see if that helps but
> they tend to rattle.
>
> I've seen photos of cars with wind wings like Moss sells and I'm
> wondering if anyone on the list has experience with them. Do they
> reduce the buffeting in the cockpit? Can you leave them on in colder
> or rainy weather when you're using the top and sidecurtains? Any
> problems with installation?
>
> The wind blocker that goes across the cockpit behind the seats isn't
> under consideration at the moment.
>
> No, leaving my wife at home is not an option. If it weren't for her I
> might not have the car.
>
> Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks
>
> Rick Swain
> _______________________________________________
> richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From terry at toyshop-resto.com  Mon Sep  3 15:56:02 2007
From: terry at toyshop-resto.com (terry cowan)
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2007 14:56:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Knock (Terry Cowan)
In-Reply-To: <mailman.23.1188842402.4002.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.23.1188842402.4002.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20070903144021.02444d10@toyshop-resto.com>

At 11:00 AM 9/3/2007, you wrote:
  It could be a loose balancer, if the nut works loose it allows the 
balancer to work back and forth and widen the key way, its easy 
enough to check if its making that much noise you can normally move 
it back and forth with your hand not in and out. You will want to 
inspect the crankshaft key, as well as the balancer for damage, you 
will want to at least change the key, and re-assemble everything with 
thread locker !! If that is the problem it will be damaging the end 
of the crankshaft as well.

If you need more help with the subject you can call the shop.

1-800-798-6469
Terry Cown, Owner
The Toy Shop Restorations

From ahbn6 at optonline.net  Mon Sep  3 16:28:48 2007
From: ahbn6 at optonline.net (John Sims)
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2007 18:28:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Wind Wings
In-Reply-To: <F9C25F48-154C-4592-BE87-28E355D7B7B1@auracom.com>
References: <F9C25F48-154C-4592-BE87-28E355D7B7B1@auracom.com>
Message-ID: <003801c7ee79$cc5ae170$6500a8c0@simsoffice>

I have them (wind wings from Moss) and if you can wait a week or so until I
get my first love down off her pedestal (jack stands) I'll let you know if
they work.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com
 


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Rick Swain and Wendy Grant
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 11:23 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Wind Wings

I'd like some information please. The wind in the cockpit of my BN4
has started to bother my wife. Even if she wears her largest
sunglasses, after a drive of a couple of hours, the skin under her
eyes becomes red and itchy. The first time I thought it must be
pollen or dust in the air on that particular day but it has now
happened on several occasions over the last month and a half so it's
not likely to be something in the air. We're thinking it's from wind
being blown forward from the back of the car and coming around behind
her glasses. Somebody has suggested motorcycle goggles and we may try
that. We'll also put in the sidecurtains and see if that helps but
they tend to rattle.

I've seen photos of cars with wind wings like Moss sells and I'm
wondering if anyone on the list has experience with them. Do they
reduce the buffeting in the cockpit? Can you leave them on in colder
or rainy weather when you're using the top and sidecurtains? Any
problems with installation?

The wind blocker that goes across the cockpit behind the seats isn't
under consideration at the moment.

No, leaving my wife at home is not an option. If it weren't for her I
might not have the car.

Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Rick Swain
_______________________________________________
ahbn6 at optonline.net

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From bighealey at charter.net  Mon Sep  3 17:00:44 2007
From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 16:00:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Wind Wings
In-Reply-To: <F9C25F48-154C-4592-BE87-28E355D7B7B1@auracom.com>
Message-ID: <001801c7ee7e$4592ff60$1002a8c0@TRACY>

They work quite nicely.  They will not eliminate but lessen the effects of
being in the wind for long periods.

Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !
President AHCUSA              www.healey.org
VP/Events Director GGAHC  www.goldengatehealeys.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+bighealey=charter.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+bighealey=charter.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Rick Swain and Wendy Grant
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 8:23 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Wind Wings

I'd like some information please. The wind in the cockpit of my BN4  
has started to bother my wife. Even if she wears her largest  
sunglasses, after a drive of a couple of hours, the skin under her  
eyes becomes red and itchy. The first time I thought it must be  
pollen or dust in the air on that particular day but it has now  
happened on several occasions over the last month and a half so it's  
not likely to be something in the air. We're thinking it's from wind  
being blown forward from the back of the car and coming around behind  
her glasses. Somebody has suggested motorcycle goggles and we may try  
that. We'll also put in the sidecurtains and see if that helps but  
they tend to rattle.

I've seen photos of cars with wind wings like Moss sells and I'm  
wondering if anyone on the list has experience with them. Do they  
reduce the buffeting in the cockpit? Can you leave them on in colder  
or rainy weather when you're using the top and sidecurtains? Any  
problems with installation?

The wind blocker that goes across the cockpit behind the seats isn't  
under consideration at the moment.

No, leaving my wife at home is not an option. If it weren't for her I  
might not have the car.

Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Rick Swain
_______________________________________________
bighealey at charter.net 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From linwoodrose at mac.com  Mon Sep  3 17:29:48 2007
From: linwoodrose at mac.com (linwood rose)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 19:29:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Off to Newfoundland. New Post on my blog
In-Reply-To: <20070903202213.521EC187A10@autox.team.net>
References: <20070903202213.521EC187A10@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <6BEAC25A-1351-4AE1-BA18-B85EC20BA551@mac.com>

Mike,
Good luck to you and Mike this year and have some fun for us. Did  
Mike fit the description of the "ideal" navigating partner for which  
you had advertised earlier? Just kidding, Mike. I look forward to  
reading the results at the web site.

Lin
1960 BT7 in restoration
1959 Bugeye


On Sep 3, 2007, at 4:21 PM, Michael Salter wrote:

> Sorry....that link doesn't seem to work..Please try this one.
> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/
>
> Michael Salter
> 100S (1955)
> 3000 Mk111(1965)
> 100 (1953)
> AHX12 (1953)
> Bugeye (1961)
> _______________________________________________
> linwoodrose at mac.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Sep  3 18:26:16 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 08:26:16 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Header Rail, BJ8
In-Reply-To: <823302.70673.qm@web80604.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <823302.70673.qm@web80604.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709031726x2a97704erff88ab0b4a3abf94@mail.gmail.com>

Gene -

I always get healey wood from Bob Yule at Autofarm.  He has everything
and it all fits great.

Best,

Alan



On 9/4/07, Gene Montresor <ermontresor at snet.net> wrote:
> Gentlemen:  I have a few questions about the wood header rail and it's fit.
> I have all new wood and the window pieces are just like the old pieces and
> will fit fine however I do have a new rail but no old to compare.  The new
> one just doesn't have the same contour as the windshield frame or the
> aluminum retainer seal and I don't think I can work it to fit (not sure how
> it supposed to fit).  If a new header is purchased are they supposed to fit
> or are modification necessary?  Any good sources.
>
>   Thanks  Gene   64 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Sep  3 18:37:51 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 08:37:51 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Thanks re Saftey gauge
In-Reply-To: <8C9BC4137CEF0F4-A08-5CA8@FWM-D41.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8C9BC4137CEF0F4-A08-5CA8@FWM-D41.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709031737n5df38013x2a18c4012809eecb@mail.gmail.com>

Bill -

I don't think it really matters where the shop is, it all goes through
the same USPS.

One thing I can say for sure, Margaret Lucas will not let the guage
leave the shop unless it's perfect.

Alan


On 9/3/07, wericars at aol.com <wericars at aol.com> wrote:
> Thanks to all the good folks who wrote to me about where to get the Saftey
> Gauge rebuilt.? I got many responses and failed to thank each of you.? As I
> am on the east coast, I was planning to use Nissonger rather than Mo Ma.?
> Anyone?ever have a?negative experience with Nissonger?
>
>
> Bill
> Boston area
> 65 BJ8
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! -
> http://mail.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Mon Sep  3 19:19:13 2007
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2007 21:19:13 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] bj8 seat belt installation
Message-ID: <BAY108-F356469BF882DF32FAA5688C8CA0@phx.gbl>

Hello listers,

I'm trying to install the 3 point seat belts I bought from Moss.  How do the 
seat belt webbings attach to the brackets on the rear wheel well that I 
purchased from British Car specialists?  The bracket on the Moss belt has a 
small bar that the belt wraps around and grabs the belt when it is pulled 
forward to keep you from flying forward during deceleration.  There is no 
such bar on the BCS bracket, how do I go about securing the belt to it so 
the belt can be adjusted for different size people?

Thanks for any information on this.

George Haywood
'65 bj8

_________________________________________________________________
Get a FREE small business Web site and more from Microsoft. Office Live! 
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/aub0930003811mrt/direct/01/

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Mon Sep  3 19:49:15 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 21:49:15 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Thanks re Saftey gauge
Message-ID: <380-2200792414915562@earthlink.net>

Not to take anything away from Nissonger, but Margaret does a superb job
with guages.

tom  


> [Original Message]
> From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> To: <wericars at aol.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 9/3/2007 8:38:12 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thanks re Saftey gauge
>
> Bill -
>
> I don't think it really matters where the shop is, it all goes through
> the same USPS.
>
> One thing I can say for sure, Margaret Lucas will not let the guage
> leave the shop unless it's perfect.
>
> Alan
>
>
> On 9/3/07, wericars at aol.com <wericars at aol.com> wrote:
> > Thanks to all the good folks who wrote to me about where to get the
Saftey
> > Gauge rebuilt.? I got many responses and failed to thank each of you.?
As I
> > am on the east coast, I was planning to use Nissonger rather than Mo
Ma.?
> > Anyone?ever have a?negative experience with Nissonger?
> >
> >
> > Bill
> > Boston area
> > 65 BJ8
> >
> > ________________________________________________________________________
> > Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! -
> > http://mail.aol.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > healey.nut at gmail.com
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
>
>
> -- 
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Sep  3 19:53:49 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 09:53:49 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] bj8 seat belt installation
In-Reply-To: <BAY108-F356469BF882DF32FAA5688C8CA0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY108-F356469BF882DF32FAA5688C8CA0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709031853v69472860o365457cc5945ebe4@mail.gmail.com>

George -

You have to get a little seat belt "O" or a slide bar similar to this:

http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/wescoperformance/3in-slidebar-wlabel.jpg

Loop the belt from the underside of the mount, through the mount hole, then
up and over the slide bar and back through the hole.  The odd shape of the
hole in the mount will then anchor the seat belt firmly for safety, but if
pushed backwards will become loose and you can adjust it.

If you want I can probably send you a picture of my installation in a couple
of days.

Good Luck!

Alan

On 9/4/07, George Haywood <haywoodone at hotmail.com > wrote:
>
> Hello listers,
>
> I'm trying to install the 3 point seat belts I bought from Moss.  How do
> the
> seat belt webbings attach to the brackets on the rear wheel well that I
> purchased from British Car specialists?  The bracket on the Moss belt has
> a
> small bar that the belt wraps around and grabs the belt when it is pulled
> forward to keep you from flying forward during deceleration.  There is no
> such bar on the BCS bracket, how do I go about securing the belt to it so
> the belt can be adjusted for different size people?
>
> Thanks for any information on this.
>
> George Haywood
> '65 bj8
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get a FREE small business Web site and more from Microsoft. Office Live!
> http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/aub0930003811mrt/direct/01/
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>



-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From jstmorris at yahoo.com  Mon Sep  3 20:06:39 2007
From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 22:06:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] bj8 seat belt installation
In-Reply-To: <BAY108-F356469BF882DF32FAA5688C8CA0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <52489.34980.qm@web30315.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello George; The Austin Healey Club of Southern Ontario web site contains a bulletin on seat belts in early Sprites, 100-6 and 3000 roadsters  in pdf format.   It was obtained from a series of BMC/BL technical and service bulletins; specifically, from Austin Service Journal 1961-11-16   A437.   It shows the anchor fittings for both the driver and front passenger use.  You may find it to be of help.
   http://www.ahcso.com/TechTalk/Seat%20Belt-ASJ.pdf
  --Scott Morris;   Simcoe, Ontario, Canada;   '62 BT7 tricarb &  '60 BN7-project
  
George Haywood <haywoodone at hotmail.com> wrote:
  Hello listers,  I'm trying to install the 3 point seat belts I bought from Moss. How do the seat belt webbings attach to the brackets on the rear wheel well that I purchased from British Car specialists? The bracket on the Moss belt has a small bar that the belt wraps around and grabs the belt when it is pulled forward to keep you from flying forward during deceleration. There is no such bar on the BCS bracket, how do I go about securing the belt to it so the belt can be adjusted for different size people?  Thanks for any information on this.
George Haywood  '65 bj8


J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
       
---------------------------------
Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail  

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Mon Sep  3 20:16:47 2007
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2007 22:16:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] bj8 seat belt installation
Message-ID: <BAY108-F37F56C4AC127A6FC74B55BC8CA0@phx.gbl>

Thanks Alan,

I ran across that web site the other day but there is a caption stating "for 
off road or racing use" or something of that nature.  So these will work for 
our application, good.  I will order a couple, do I need the 3" or 2" size.  
I'm not in the garage right now but I think my belts are about 2" wide.

Thanks again,

George


>From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
>To: "George Haywood" <haywoodone at hotmail.com>
>CC: healeys at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] bj8 seat belt installation
>Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 09:53:49 +0800
>
>George -
>
>You have to get a little seat belt "O" or a slide bar similar to this:
>
>http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/wescoperformance/3in-slidebar-wlabel.jpg
>
>Loop the belt from the underside of the mount, through the mount hole, then
>up and over the slide bar and back through the hole.  The odd shape of the
>hole in the mount will then anchor the seat belt firmly for safety, but if
>pushed backwards will become loose and you can adjust it.
>
>If you want I can probably send you a picture of my installation in a 
>couple
>of days.
>
>Good Luck!
>
>Alan
>
>On 9/4/07, George Haywood <haywoodone at hotmail.com > wrote:
> >
> > Hello listers,
> >
> > I'm trying to install the 3 point seat belts I bought from Moss.  How do
> > the
> > seat belt webbings attach to the brackets on the rear wheel well that I
> > purchased from British Car specialists?  The bracket on the Moss belt 
>has
> > a
> > small bar that the belt wraps around and grabs the belt when it is 
>pulled
> > forward to keep you from flying forward during deceleration.  There is 
>no
> > such bar on the BCS bracket, how do I go about securing the belt to it 
>so
> > the belt can be adjusted for different size people?
> >
> > Thanks for any information on this.
> >
> > George Haywood
> > '65 bj8
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Get a FREE small business Web site and more from Microsoft. Office Live!
> > http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/aub0930003811mrt/direct/01/
> > _______________________________________________
> > healey.nut at gmail.com
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
>
>
>
>--
>Alan
>
>'52 A90
>'53 BN1
>'64 BJ8

_________________________________________________________________
Can you find the hidden words?  Take a break and play Seekadoo! 
http://club.live.com/seekadoo.aspx?icid=seek_hotmailtextlink1

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Sep  3 20:22:16 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 10:22:16 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] bj8 seat belt installation
In-Reply-To: <BAY108-F37F56C4AC127A6FC74B55BC8CA0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY108-F37F56C4AC127A6FC74B55BC8CA0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709031922h7046f51bl1fea95c3a1dbdbeb@mail.gmail.com>

maybe check the garage, I can't remember offhand!

On 9/4/07, George Haywood <haywoodone at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks Alan,
>
> I ran across that web site the other day but there is a caption stating
> "for
> off road or racing use" or something of that nature.  So these will work
> for
> our application, good.  I will order a couple, do I need the 3" or 2"
> size.
> I'm not in the garage right now but I think my belts are about 2" wide.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> George
>
>
> >From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> >To: "George Haywood" <haywoodone at hotmail.com>
> >CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> >Subject: Re: [Healeys] bj8 seat belt installation
> >Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 09:53:49 +0800
> >
> >George -
> >
> >You have to get a little seat belt "O" or a slide bar similar to this:
> >
> >http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/wescoperformance/3in-slidebar-wlabel.jpg
> >
> >Loop the belt from the underside of the mount, through the mount hole,
> then
> >up and over the slide bar and back through the hole.  The odd shape of
> the
> >hole in the mount will then anchor the seat belt firmly for safety, but
> if
> >pushed backwards will become loose and you can adjust it.
> >
> >If you want I can probably send you a picture of my installation in a
> >couple
> >of days.
> >
> >Good Luck!
> >
> >Alan
> >
> >On 9/4/07, George Haywood <haywoodone at hotmail.com > wrote:
> > >
> > > Hello listers,
> > >
> > > I'm trying to install the 3 point seat belts I bought from Moss.  How
> do
> > > the
> > > seat belt webbings attach to the brackets on the rear wheel well that
> I
> > > purchased from British Car specialists?  The bracket on the Moss belt
> >has
> > > a
> > > small bar that the belt wraps around and grabs the belt when it is
> >pulled
> > > forward to keep you from flying forward during deceleration.  There is
> >no
> > > such bar on the BCS bracket, how do I go about securing the belt to it
> >so
> > > the belt can be adjusted for different size people?
> > >
> > > Thanks for any information on this.
> > >
> > > George Haywood
> > > '65 bj8
> > >
> > > _________________________________________________________________
> > > Get a FREE small business Web site and more from Microsoft. Office
> Live!
> > > http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/aub0930003811mrt/direct/01/
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > healey.nut at gmail.com
> > >
> > > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >--
> >Alan
> >
> >'52 A90
> >'53 BN1
> >'64 BJ8
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Can you find the hidden words? Take a break and play Seekadoo!
> http://club.live.com/seekadoo.aspx?icid=seek_hotmailtextlink1
>
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Mon Sep  3 20:31:19 2007
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2007 22:31:19 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] bj8 seat belt installation
Message-ID: <BAY108-F250A5294192E4500EA896CC8CA0@phx.gbl>

Scott,

Thanks for the article.  The bj8 already has those studs for seat belts from 
the factory.  My question is how to attach the belts to the bracket that I 
have and still be able to adjust the belt to fit different sized people.  I 
can't just stitch the belt around the bracket because that would make it non 
adjustable.

Thanks again,

George


>From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
>To: George Haywood <haywoodone at hotmail.com>, healeys at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] bj8 seat belt installation
>Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 22:06:39 -0400 (EDT)
>
>Hello George; The Austin Healey Club of Southern Ontario web site contains 
>a bulletin on seat belts in early Sprites, 100-6 and 3000 roadsters  in pdf 
>format.   It was obtained from a series of BMC/BL technical and service 
>bulletins; specifically, from Austin Service Journal 1961-11-16   A437.   
>It shows the anchor fittings for both the driver and front passenger use.  
>You may find it to be of help.
>    http://www.ahcso.com/TechTalk/Seat%20Belt-ASJ.pdf
>   --Scott Morris;   Simcoe, Ontario, Canada;   '62 BT7 tricarb &  '60 
>BN7-project
>
>George Haywood <haywoodone at hotmail.com> wrote:
>   Hello listers,  I'm trying to install the 3 point seat belts I bought 
>from Moss. How do the seat belt webbings attach to the brackets on the rear 
>wheel well that I purchased from British Car specialists? The bracket on 
>the Moss belt has a small bar that the belt wraps around and grabs the belt 
>when it is pulled forward to keep you from flying forward during 
>deceleration. There is no such bar on the BCS bracket, how do I go about 
>securing the belt to it so the belt can be adjusted for different size 
>people?  Thanks for any information on this.
>George Haywood  '65 bj8
>
>
>J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
>
>---------------------------------
>Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the 
>boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail

_________________________________________________________________
Discover sweet stuff waiting for you at the Messenger Cafe.  Claim your 
treat today! 
http://www.cafemessenger.com/info/info_sweetstuff.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_SeptHMtagline2

From mkgoodman at worldnet.att.net  Mon Sep  3 20:48:56 2007
From: mkgoodman at worldnet.att.net (Mark Goodman)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 22:48:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Teacher Arrested
Message-ID: <20070904025007.E86C61879D9@autox.team.net>

>From Alan Bandes

 

Teacher Arrested:

 

NEW YORK -- A public school teacher was arrested today at John F.

Kennedy International Airport as he attempted to board a flight while in

possession of a ruler, a protractor, a set square, a slide rule and a

calculator. At a morning press conference, Attorney General Alberto

Gonzales said he believes the man is a member of the notorious Al-gebra

movement. He did not identify the man, who has been charged by the FBI

with carrying weapons of math instruction. "Al-gebra is a problem for

us," Gonzales said. "They desire solutions by means and extremes, and

sometimes go off on tangents in search of absolute values. They use

secret code names like 'x' and 'y' and refer to themselves as

'unknowns', but we have determined they belong to a common denominator

of the axis of medieval with coordinates in every country. As the Greek

philanderer Isosceles used to say, 'There are 3 sides to every

triangle'." When asked to comment on the arrest, President Bush said, "

If God had wanted us to have

better weapons of math instruction, He would have given us more

fingers and toes." White House aides told reporters they could not

recall a more intelligent or profound statement by the president.

 

------------------------------------------------------------------------

--------

AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free

from AOL at AOL.com.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of image001.jpg]

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Mon Sep  3 20:57:17 2007
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2007 22:57:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] bj8 seat belt installation
Message-ID: <BAY108-F25D74FFB2F1D61BEA04B0DC8CA0@phx.gbl>

Alan,

Don't know if this got through so here it comes again.

Just went out and checked, the belts are 2" wide and the opening in the rear 
bracket is also 2".  Guess that answers my question, I'll get the 2" part.  
We will then feel safe driving the car on the main roads instead of 
terrorizing our neighborhood over and over while putting break-in miles on 
the new rebuilt engine and Lempert gear set.

Thanks,

George


>From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
>To: "George Haywood" <haywoodone at hotmail.com>
>CC: healeys at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] bj8 seat belt installation
>Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 10:22:16 +0800
>
>maybe check the garage, I can't remember offhand!
>
>On 9/4/07, George Haywood <haywoodone at hotmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks Alan,
> >
> > I ran across that web site the other day but there is a caption stating
> > "for
> > off road or racing use" or something of that nature.  So these will work
> > for
> > our application, good.  I will order a couple, do I need the 3" or 2"
> > size.
> > I'm not in the garage right now but I think my belts are about 2" wide.
> >
> > Thanks again,
> >
> > George
> >
> >
> > >From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> > >To: "George Haywood" <haywoodone at hotmail.com>
> > >CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> > >Subject: Re: [Healeys] bj8 seat belt installation
> > >Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 09:53:49 +0800
> > >
> > >George -
> > >
> > >You have to get a little seat belt "O" or a slide bar similar to this:
> > >
> > >http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/wescoperformance/3in-slidebar-wlabel.jpg
> > >
> > >Loop the belt from the underside of the mount, through the mount hole,
> > then
> > >up and over the slide bar and back through the hole.  The odd shape of
> > the
> > >hole in the mount will then anchor the seat belt firmly for safety, but
> > if
> > >pushed backwards will become loose and you can adjust it.
> > >
> > >If you want I can probably send you a picture of my installation in a
> > >couple
> > >of days.
> > >
> > >Good Luck!
> > >
> > >Alan

_________________________________________________________________
Gear up for Halo. 3 with free downloads and an exclusive offer. 
http://gethalo3gear.com?ocid=SeptemberWLHalo3_MSNHMTxt_1

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Mon Sep  3 22:48:51 2007
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2007 04:48:51 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] [Fwd: County]
In-Reply-To: <46DC5773.4010104@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY108-F2895D2842D6D7B8D811EE4C0CA0@phx.gbl>

We racers have learned first hand (the hard way) that County bearings only 
live a few hours in a race motor. AE, Glacier, Vandervell, and ACL survive 
many, many long hours under racing conditions. Got a trailer queen? No need 
to worry about quality bearings. Drive your car hard and want dependability? 
Use good bearings.  Richard Mayor, Portland, Oregon


>From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>To: david porter <frogeye at swcp.com>
>CC: 'healeylist' <healeys at autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Fwd: County]
>Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2007 11:50:27 -0700
>
>OK, I forwarded this to the List (with Wayne's permission), so I'll chime 
>in.
>
>I read this as they built the original engine twice--with County 
>bearings--and had
>problems.  The third build was the spare engine.
>
>Nonetheless, your data is noted--the original engine could have had bottom 
>end
>issues the spare engine (third build) didn't.
>
>Anyone else have experience with County parts?
>
>
>bs
>
>
>david porter wrote:
>>I gotta chime in on this one. I've re-built hundreds of bottom ends and 
>>have
>>been using the County bearings for many of them (being a loyal Moss Dist.)
>>Bearings simply do not slide apart. That requires friction and resultant
>>heat. I suspect that on the 3rd go around your friend finally did (or
>>re-did) the machine shop work that the bottom end required in the first
>>place.
>>  Dave
>>
>>
>>
>>
>***************************************************************
>Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
>'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
>***************************************************************


>_______________________________________________
>mayorrichard at hotmail.com
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

_________________________________________________________________
Discover sweet stuff waiting for you at the Messenger Cafe.  Claim your 
treat today! 
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From joemulqueen at yahoo.com  Tue Sep  4 00:02:29 2007
From: joemulqueen at yahoo.com (joe mulqueen)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 23:02:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] rebuilds (was County)
Message-ID: <375363.18778.qm@web82201.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I was thinking the same thing.  Thrust washers don't
see *that* much pressure.  They would've had to be
extremely soft in order to distentegrate so quickly. 
Even down to copper they should not fall out.  Now on
a different point, I've received surprisingly poor
quality from very reputable machine shops.  Often, the
owner/expert/god lets a helper do the job...
Sincerely,
JoeM
'60 BT7 project
'56 MGA driver


Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 12:42:38 -0600
From: "david porter" <frogeye at swcp.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Fwd: County]
To: "'Bob Spidell'" <bspidell at comcast.net>,
"'healeylist'"
	<healeys at autox.team.net>
Message-ID:
<200709031842.l83IggcN004990 at ame8.swcp.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1250"

I gotta chime in on this one. I've re-built hundreds
of bottom ends and
 have
been using the County bearings for many of them (being
a loyal Moss
 Dist.)
Bearings simply do not slide apart. That requires
friction and
 resultant
heat. I suspect that on the 3rd go around your friend
finally did (or
re-did) the machine shop work that the bottom end
required in the first
place.
 Dave 

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+frogeye=swcp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+frogeye=swcp.com at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of
 Bob
Spidell
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 10:52 AM
To: healeylist
Subject: [Healeys] [Fwd: County]

Another actual, substantive data point about County
parts:

Hi Bob,


          I rebuilt a spare engine for a friend of
mine after his 
original engine came apart twice. The first rebuild,
by a race shop, 
came apart after 200 miles when two County rod
bearings came apart. The
 
bearing material slid off of the steel shell. They
rebuilt it again
 with 
two new rods and a different crank. 1800 miles later
my friend showed
 up 
at mine door with a bad oil leak at the real seal kit.
Thinking the
 seal 
had failed we pulled the gearbox to get at the seal
and found the 
crankshaft moving back and forth 3/8 of an inch. We
pulled the pan and 
found the County thrust washers in the oil pan. They
turned out to be 
very soft and wore quickly. The rear seal kit had been
destroyed by the
 
movement of the crank as were the crank and the main
webs from rubbing.
 
When we rebuilt the spare engine we used all
Vanderville bearings, AE 
pistons, and Payne gaskets and the engine has 15k
miles on it now with 
no issues. I think the County problem is a quality
issue and the
 sources 
they use to make parts. Some might be fine and others
are crap. I might
 
use a County water pump in a pinch but, not County
bearings made in
 Israel.


                                      Wayne

From hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk  Tue Sep  4 06:56:54 2007
From: hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk (mike brooks)
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 05:56:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] County Brand (was Parts comparisons)
Message-ID: <856191.28976.qm@web33602.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

The water pump I recently fitted came from Dennis Welch - I don't know if it
was made by County. It had a tube fitted to connect direct to the hose.
However, I carefully turned the tube anticlockwise with some molegrips to find
that it was threaded into the pump body. The female thread in the pump body
fits the male thread on the heater tap. Might be worth seeing if yours is the
same?

Mike

Message: 9
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2007 01:37:30 -0500
From: "Greg
Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] County Brand (was Parts
comparisons)
To: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
Cc: HEALEY LIST
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Message-ID:
<059e01c7edf5$04e0cbc0$6401a8c0 at toshibauser>
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="us-ascii"

Alan is of course correct, although it would have been
nice if the County pump
had the threaded fitting for the (2nd) heater valve
instead of just a tube to
push the hose on.

Greg Lemon
54 BN1

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Sep  4 09:57:43 2007
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 08:57:43 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] bj8 seat belt installation
In-Reply-To: <BAY108-F356469BF882DF32FAA5688C8CA0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY108-F356469BF882DF32FAA5688C8CA0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20AC8372-3FC2-4436-B615-3A029CDB87C3@sbcglobal.net>

The seat belt bracket that you purchased is the original style  
bracket. It originally was sewn into the seat belt assembly it is not  
part of the Moss Motors kit.  The Moss belt is a universal belt that  
will work in many different cars.
There is a certain weave that is used on racing seat belts that would  
use a bracket similar to the other one mentioned in these e mails  
that could also be an option to using the bracket you purchased.

Below is a link to some info on vintage seat belt installation

http://www.wescoperformance.com/lap-belts-install.html


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Sep 3, 2007, at 6:19 PM, George Haywood wrote:

> Hello listers,
>
> I'm trying to install the 3 point seat belts I bought from Moss.   
> How do the
> seat belt webbings attach to the brackets on the rear wheel well  
> that I
> purchased from British Car specialists?  The bracket on the Moss  
> belt has a
> small bar that the belt wraps around and grabs the belt when it is  
> pulled
> forward to keep you from flying forward during deceleration.  There  
> is no
> such bar on the BCS bracket, how do I go about securing the belt to  
> it so
> the belt can be adjusted for different size people?
>
> Thanks for any information on this.
>
> George Haywood
> '65 bj8
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get a FREE small business Web site and more from Microsoft. Office  
> Live!
> http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/aub0930003811mrt/direct/01/
> _______________________________________________
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From Editorgary at aol.com  Tue Sep  4 15:06:48 2007
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 17:06:48 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Smog Controls
Message-ID: <cfb.183e2944.340f22e8@aol.com>

In a message dated 9/4/07 9:31:53 AM, healeybruce at roadrunner.com writes:


> Gary, thanks for publicly setting the record straight.  I totally agree
> with
> your comments about the "easy targets
>

Thanks for the note -- though we should probably still keep a weather eye out
for potential issues affecting true vintage hobby cars, the program certainly
seems harmless at the least, and positive at best. Perhaps the best thing to
come out of it will be some data to challenge or support the contributions
that older and unmaintained vehicles make to mobile and overall smog
problems.

However, what I'd personally like to see from the old car hobby is a move
away from these defensive "oppose new controls" strategies and towards a
positive
campaign to get classic cars used for hobby purposes exempt from smog
controls entirely. I would argue for regulations based on usage and
qualification
rather than simply on age. For example, offer total smog exemption to any car
licensed under the classic car tag limitations, which as I understand them
require the car be driven no more than 2500 miles a year and that the mileage
be
checked when the tag is renewed. Though I realize there are some among us who
routinely drive their cars greater distances each year, I believe these cars
are
in a distinct minority among hobby cars and could be handled through some form
of application for exemption.

Then, let's all continue to lobby our legislators to crack down on pollution
from agriculture in general and from sport utes and trucks within mobile
sources of pollution.

Cheers
Gary


**************************************
 Get a sneak peek of the all-new
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From bluechipracing at snet.net  Tue Sep  4 17:45:04 2007
From: bluechipracing at snet.net (bluechip)
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 19:45:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Smog Controls
References: <cfb.183e2944.340f22e8@aol.com>
Message-ID: <002601c7ef4d$9ed11010$1f9bfea9@dell>

These old car rules seem to vary considerably from state to state.  In 
Connecticut for instance there is no smog inspection for old cars, and there 
is no mileage limitation on cars with antique car plates.  Lets not propose 
any "national" legislation that might change that.

Jim Smith
East Hampton, CT


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Editorgary at aol.com>
To: <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 5:06 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Smog Controls


> In a message dated 9/4/07 9:31:53 AM, healeybruce at roadrunner.com writes:
>
>
>> Gary, thanks for publicly setting the record straight.  I totally agree
>> with
>> your comments about the "easy targets
>>
>
> Thanks for the note -- though we should probably still keep a weather eye 
> out
> for potential issues affecting true vintage hobby cars, the program 
> certainly
> seems harmless at the least, and positive at best. Perhaps the best thing 
> to
> come out of it will be some data to challenge or support the contributions
> that older and unmaintained vehicles make to mobile and overall smog
> problems.
>
> However, what I'd personally like to see from the old car hobby is a move
> away from these defensive "oppose new controls" strategies and towards a
> positive
> campaign to get classic cars used for hobby purposes exempt from smog
> controls entirely. I would argue for regulations based on usage and
> qualification
> rather than simply on age. For example, offer total smog exemption to any 
> car
> licensed under the classic car tag limitations, which as I understand them
> require the car be driven no more than 2500 miles a year and that the 
> mileage
> be
> checked when the tag is renewed. Though I realize there are some among us 
> who
> routinely drive their cars greater distances each year, I believe these 
> cars
> are
> in a distinct minority among hobby cars and could be handled through some 
> form
> of application for exemption.
>
> Then, let's all continue to lobby our legislators to crack down on 
> pollution
> from agriculture in general and from sport utes and trucks within mobile
> sources of pollution.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
>
>
> **************************************
> Get a sneak peek of the all-new
> AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
> _______________________________________________
> bluechipracing at snet.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

From rdavies1 at cox.net  Tue Sep  4 18:52:31 2007
From: rdavies1 at cox.net (Ron Davies)
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 17:52:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Smog Controls
In-Reply-To: <002601c7ef4d$9ed11010$1f9bfea9@dell>
References: <cfb.183e2944.340f22e8@aol.com>
	<002601c7ef4d$9ed11010$1f9bfea9@dell>
Message-ID: <007101c7ef57$0a647f20$6401a8c0@OfficeDell>

Jim,
That sounds like the exact national policy we need!
Ron
67 BJ8
97 DB7


These old car rules seem to vary considerably from state to state.  In 
Connecticut for instance there is no smog inspection for old cars, and there

is no mileage limitation on cars with antique car plates.  Lets not propose 
any "national" legislation that might change that.

Jim Smith
East Hampton, CT

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Sep  4 19:34:23 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 09:34:23 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Smog Controls
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0709041824w4d82b2b8ta5aab45a4027b233@mail.gmail.com>
References: <cfb.183e2944.340f22e8@aol.com>
	<002601c7ef4d$9ed11010$1f9bfea9@dell>
	<ff59076c0709041824w4d82b2b8ta5aab45a4027b233@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709041834y6d54a262y4be3ab2c6c488c4a@mail.gmail.com>

> I've got a better idea.  Go to Mexico, trade your US passport for a
> Mexican passport,  then you can then come back across the border and
> drive your classic car without having to register it or pass any
> annoying smog test.  Best of all, if you are in an accident you don't
> need insurance either and the cops don't care.  Don't ask me or my BJ8

why we know about this registration loophole.



Alan


On 9/5/07, bluechip <bluechipracing at snet.net> wrote:
> > These old car rules seem to vary considerably from state to state.  In
> > Connecticut for instance there is no smog inspection for old cars, and
> there
> > is no mileage limitation on cars with antique car plates.  Lets not
> propose
> > any "national" legislation that might change that.
> >
> > Jim Smith
> > East Hampton, CT
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <Editorgary at aol.com>
> > To: <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 5:06 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Smog Controls
> >
> >
> > > In a message dated 9/4/07 9:31:53 AM, healeybruce at roadrunner.comwrites:
> > >
> > >
> > >> Gary, thanks for publicly setting the record straight.  I totally
> agree
> > >> with
> > >> your comments about the "easy targets
> > >>
> > >
> > > Thanks for the note -- though we should probably still keep a weather
> eye
> > > out
> > > for potential issues affecting true vintage hobby cars, the program
> > > certainly
> > > seems harmless at the least, and positive at best. Perhaps the best
> thing
> > > to
> > > come out of it will be some data to challenge or support the
> contributions
> > > that older and unmaintained vehicles make to mobile and overall smog
> > > problems.
> > >
> > > However, what I'd personally like to see from the old car hobby is a
> move
> > > away from these defensive "oppose new controls" strategies and towards
> a
> > > positive
> > > campaign to get classic cars used for hobby purposes exempt from smog
> > > controls entirely. I would argue for regulations based on usage and
> > > qualification
> > > rather than simply on age. For example, offer total smog exemption to
> any
> > > car
> > > licensed under the classic car tag limitations, which as I understand
> them
> > > require the car be driven no more than 2500 miles a year and that the
> > > mileage
> > > be
> > > checked when the tag is renewed. Though I realize there are some among
> us
> > > who
> > > routinely drive their cars greater distances each year, I believe
> these
> > > cars
> > > are
> > > in a distinct minority among hobby cars and could be handled through
> some
> > > form
> > > of application for exemption.
> > >
> > > Then, let's all continue to lobby our legislators to crack down on
> > > pollution
> > > from agriculture in general and from sport utes and trucks within
> mobile
> > > sources of pollution.

From bluechipracing at snet.net  Tue Sep  4 20:18:58 2007
From: bluechipracing at snet.net (bluechip)
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 22:18:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] British Car Show, Manchester, CT
Message-ID: <002401c7ef63$1e3c0840$1f9bfea9@dell>

Hi Healey folks in the Northeast US. Just a reminder, the British Car Show put
on by the Connecticut Triumph Register will be held next Sunday, Sept. 9, 2007
in Wickham Park, Manchester, CT See the website http://www.ctriumph.com/ for
details.

Jim Smith

From papashado at comcast.net  Tue Sep  4 20:37:43 2007
From: papashado at comcast.net (James Routt)
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 20:37:43 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Headliner frame
Message-ID: <000f01c7ef65$bce3a780$0201a8c0@D9FGSR41>

Does anyone out there know where you can get a headliner frame for a 2 seat
hardtop or possibly straightened out?  Mine got bent due to an unfortunate
accident. Thanks.

 

Jim

BN7

From frogeye at swcp.com  Wed Sep  5 05:27:03 2007
From: frogeye at swcp.com (david porter)
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 05:27:03 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Headliner frame
In-Reply-To: <000f01c7ef65$bce3a780$0201a8c0@D9FGSR41>
Message-ID: <200709051127.l85BR9oQ043825@ame7.swcp.com>

Jim,
 Let's have a look at the damage. I can probably get it straightened out
with a planishing hammer. 
Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+frogeye=swcp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+frogeye=swcp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of James
Routt
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 8:38 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Headliner frame

Does anyone out there know where you can get a headliner frame for a 2 seat
hardtop or possibly straightened out?  Mine got bent due to an unfortunate
accident. Thanks.

 

Jim

BN7
_______________________________________________
frogeye at swcp.com 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.13.5/990 - Release Date: 9/4/2007
10:36 PM
 

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.13.5/990 - Release Date: 9/4/2007
10:36 PM

From jackson_krall at yahoo.com  Wed Sep  5 08:11:30 2007
From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall)
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 07:11:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] County Brand (was Parts comparisons)
In-Reply-To: <01a001c7edd0$31199890$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
Message-ID: <578340.1731.qm@web52403.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Joe Curto also rebuilds water pumps should you decide
to go that route.
NFI
JK
--- Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com> wrote:

> I just got a County brand water pump for my BN1,
> took the old one off with a 
> socket, the new one, because of how the body as
> cast, socket won't fit, 
> three nuts, one fairly easy with a wrench, one next
> to impossible (without 
> removing the head) the bottom one pretty much
> impossble.
> 
> Eventually limped home with out by using washer as
> spacers on the bottom nut 
> so it was out fare enough that I could sort of turn
> it with a wrench. 
> Frustrating to say the least
> 
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1
> _______________________________________________
> jackson_krall at yahoo.com 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 



       
____________________________________________________________________________________
Choose the right car based on your needs.  Check out Yahoo! Autos new Car Finder tool.
http://autos.yahoo.com/carfinder/

From quenty at ntelos.net  Wed Sep  5 09:26:42 2007
From: quenty at ntelos.net (Dave Schweninger)
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 11:26:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Headliner frame for a BN7 hardtop
In-Reply-To: <000e01c7ede3$85e31780$0201a8c0@D9FGSR41>
References: <000e01c7ede3$85e31780$0201a8c0@D9FGSR41>
Message-ID: <3DA3088F-0AA5-46F5-BE79-DAD0A8D00733@ntelos.net>

Jim,
I have an extra set of BN7 top bows. Is that what you are referring  
to as a headliner frame? I don't Know what else it could be.
Best
Dave
On Sep 3, 2007, at 12:33 AM, James Routt wrote:

> Thought I would bounce this request off the list. My headliner  
> frame got
> mangled in an unfortunate garage door closing today and just was  
> curious if
> one of those bad boys was available anywhere out there in  
> healeyville. I did
> my best at straightening it out but not sure if the curves are  
> right. Anyone
> out there have any experience with these frames, only dumb and  
> dumber (I am
> the culprit) could have made this major blunder. I had all the  
> material
> ready to refit to the frame.  Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in
> advance.
>
>
>
> Jim
>
> 60 BN7
> _______________________________________________
> quenty at ntelos.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net  Wed Sep  5 10:18:00 2007
From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ronald J. Ray)
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 11:18:00 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] AHCA June Delegates meeting
In-Reply-To: <46D35D0A.2090004@attglobal.net>
Message-ID: <EKEAINGPLPLMGCBCJIDKOEGPCNAA.ronald-ray@sbcglobal.net>

John,

Your message in the Sept 2006 Marque did mention the problem, just as I did
in my original post here.  Your proposed solution to "get everybody
participating and exercising the voice they are entitle to in forming policy
and making decision" was to me, clearly the right approach.  Passing a
by-law revision giving the power to pass policy to whoever attends a
delegate meeting, even if it is only 1 individual, doesn't seem consistent
with your proposed solution to ensuring participating by all clubs.  As was
stated in the June delegates meeting, the message being sent is to local
clubs is "we don't need you."

The president's message in the March 2007 Marque did in fact include notice
that the by-laws were being considered for revision  to allow whatever
number of delegates that attend a delegate's meeting would constitute a
quorum.  I am sorry I had either didn't remember that or never read it.  I
wasn't even focused on trunnion bearings back in March.

Regardless, I still do not understand why the by-laws and minutes of the
delegate meetings are not available to the entire membership.  The only
place they can be found is in an area on the web site that the general
membership does not have access.  The impression is that it is a secret part
of the web site.  Since the club has an official publication, why not
publish the minutes of every delegate's meeting, as well as any other
official meeting of the national club, in the magazine for all members to
read if they wish.  Perhaps if those local club members, that currently do
not participate at the national level, had access to the minutes and read
them, they would understand the importance of the delegate's meetings and
might be inspired to participate by sending a delegate or a proxy..

Finally, why not make the by-laws available to the general membership as
well.  Publishing them in the membership directory, while not a unique idea,
would seen easy and appropriate to me.  I don't know what there is to hide
by making this information near impossible for any member to access.

Ron Ray

From price at advocateadvisors.com  Wed Sep  5 10:50:07 2007
From: price at advocateadvisors.com (R. Price Lindsay)
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 11:50:07 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] [SPAM] - Re: County Brand (was Parts comparisons) -
 Email found in subject
References: <578340.1731.qm@web52403.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8980C46D80E81640B5A712F2DE6E00EE0D0BBF@advfs2.advocateadvisors.com>

There was a recent note, this weekend I think, identifying a company
that rebuilds water pumps (someone other than Joe Curto).  Can someone
give me the name again; and JK, would you give me the contact
information for Joe??  I would like to contact them and discuss
rebuilding a pump for me.

Thanks.

Price Lindsay
BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+price=advocateadvisors.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+price=advocateadvisors.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jackson Krall
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 9:12 AM
To: HEALEY LIST
Subject: [SPAM] - Re: [Healeys] County Brand (was Parts comparisons) -
Email found in subject

Joe Curto also rebuilds water pumps should you decide
to go that route.
NFI
JK
--- Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com> wrote:

> I just got a County brand water pump for my BN1,
> took the old one off with a
> socket, the new one, because of how the body as
> cast, socket won't fit,
> three nuts, one fairly easy with a wrench, one next
> to impossible (without
> removing the head) the bottom one pretty much
> impossble.
>
> Eventually limped home with out by using washer as
> spacers on the bottom nut
> so it was out fare enough that I could sort of turn
> it with a wrench.
> Frustrating to say the least
>
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1
> _______________________________________________
> jackson_krall at yahoo.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>




________________________________________________________________________
____________
Choose the right car based on your needs.  Check out Yahoo! Autos new
Car Finder tool.
http://autos.yahoo.com/carfinder/
_______________________________________________
price at advocateadvisors.com

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From jwbn6 at verizon.net  Wed Sep  5 13:05:47 2007
From: jwbn6 at verizon.net (jerry wall)
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2007 14:05:47 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Healeys] [SPAM] - Re: County Brand (was Parts comparisons) -
 Email foun
Message-ID: <25130988.2361731189019147645.JavaMail.root@vms124.mailsrvcs.net>

=bill bolton rebuilds water pumps on an exchange basis.  tricarb at aol.com
cheers,
jerry wall
rowlett, tx  BN6 with factory hardtop restoration in progress.

====================
From: "R. Price Lindsay" <price at advocateadvisors.com>
Date: 2007/09/05 Wed AM 11:50:07 CDT
To: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall at yahoo.com>, 
	HEALEY LIST <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [SPAM] - Re: County Brand (was Parts comparisons) - Email found in subject

There was a recent note, this weekend I think, identifying a company
that rebuilds water pumps (someone other than Joe Curto).  Can someone
give me the name again; and JK, would you give me the contact
information for Joe??  I would like to contact them and discuss
rebuilding a pump for me.

Thanks.

Price Lindsay
BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+price=advocateadvisors.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+price=advocateadvisors.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jackson Krall
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 9:12 AM
To: HEALEY LIST
Subject: [SPAM] - Re: [Healeys] County Brand (was Parts comparisons) -
Email found in subject

Joe Curto also rebuilds water pumps should you decide
to go that route.
NFI
JK
--- Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com> wrote:

> I just got a County brand water pump for my BN1,
> took the old one off with a
> socket, the new one, because of how the body as
> cast, socket won't fit,
> three nuts, one fairly easy with a wrench, one next
> to impossible (without
> removing the head) the bottom one pretty much
> impossble.
>
> Eventually limped home with out by using washer as
> spacers on the bottom nut
> so it was out fare enough that I could sort of turn
> it with a wrench.
> Frustrating to say the least
>
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1
> _______________________________________________
> jackson_krall at yahoo.com
>
> 


________________________________________________________________________
____________
Choose the right car based on your needs.  Check out Yahoo! Autos new
Car Finder tool.
http://autos.yahoo.com/carfinder/
_______________________________________________
price at advocateadvisors.com

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
_______________________________________________
jwbn6 at verizon.net 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


JERRY WALL  BN6
ROWLETT, TX

From ahbn6 at optonline.net  Wed Sep  5 14:27:40 2007
From: ahbn6 at optonline.net (John Sims)
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2007 16:27:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Locally available parts, etc.
Message-ID: <000301c7effb$35487800$6500a8c0@simsoffice>

Has anyone ever shopped at www.rockauto.com I found their site by accident
and they appear to have a long list of parts made by such companies as
Raybestos, Stant, etc.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com
 

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Wed Sep  5 14:55:36 2007
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2007 16:55:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Locally available parts, etc.
In-Reply-To: <000301c7effb$35487800$6500a8c0@simsoffice>
References: <000301c7effb$35487800$6500a8c0@simsoffice>
Message-ID: <46DF17C8.6080906@comcast.net>

John,
They have quite a few parts that are correct or will work for our 
British cars for very good prices.  And as you have stated, they are 
made by well-known and respected companies.  I also buy parts from them 
for my everyday cars.  Their website is easy to use and many parts have 
a picture so that you can see what the part actually looks like.  One 
thing to check there is fuel pumps.  They have most of the types that 
have been discussed on the list over the years, including SU.
For my Volvo 1800, I got rebuilt Girling rear calipers for less than the 
parts would have cost me to do it myself.  The core charge at the time 
was only $5, so I just kept the old ones.
Charlie

John Sims wrote:

>Has anyone ever shopped at www.rockauto.com I found their site by accident
>and they appear to have a long list of parts made by such companies as
>Raybestos, Stant, etc.
>
>John Sims, BN6
>Aberdeen, NJ
> 
>www.healey6.com
> 
>_______________________________________________

From ronfineesq at earthlink.net  Wed Sep  5 15:03:14 2007
From: ronfineesq at earthlink.net (Ronald A. Fine)
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 14:03:14 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Healeys] Locally available parts, etc.
Message-ID: <30763909.1189026194821.JavaMail.root@elwamui-mouette.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

That is a very impressive site, especially since they offer the same part from several manufacturers. 
Ron

-----Original Message-----
>From: John Sims <ahbn6 at optonline.net>
>Sent: Sep 5, 2007 1:27 PM
>To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
>Subject: [Healeys] Locally available parts, etc.
>
>Has anyone ever shopped at www.rockauto.com I found their site by accident
>and they appear to have a long list of parts made by such companies as
>Raybestos, Stant, etc.
>
>John Sims, BN6
>Aberdeen, NJ
> 
>www.healey6.com
> 
>_______________________________________________
>ronfineesq at earthlink.net 
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From ahbn6 at optonline.net  Wed Sep  5 15:09:19 2007
From: ahbn6 at optonline.net (John Sims)
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2007 17:09:19 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Locally available parts, etc.
In-Reply-To: <30763909.1189026194821.JavaMail.root@elwamui-mouette.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <30763909.1189026194821.JavaMail.root@elwamui-mouette.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <000801c7f001$06887c30$6500a8c0@simsoffice>

Actually, I found the site by googling on "coolant recovery kits" which I
could not find on their site even though Yahoo says there is a listing there
(unfortunately I use google as a generic term for search engines but
universaly use Yahoo's engine and Google isn't careful, they will lose their
trademark as did Kleenex).

Anyway, does any one know where I can get a kit? I do not want to use MG
parts or otherwise jury rig as some have done although I am sure that those
systems are just fine.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com
 


-----Original Message-----
From: Ronald A. Fine [mailto:ronfineesq at earthlink.net]
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 5:03 PM
To: John Sims; Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Locally available parts, etc.

That is a very impressive site, especially since they offer the same part
from several manufacturers.
Ron

-----Original Message-----
>From: John Sims <ahbn6 at optonline.net>
>Sent: Sep 5, 2007 1:27 PM
>To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
>Subject: [Healeys] Locally available parts, etc.
>
>Has anyone ever shopped at www.rockauto.com I found their site by accident
>and they appear to have a long list of parts made by such companies as
>Raybestos, Stant, etc.

From peter at nosimport.com  Wed Sep  5 15:19:14 2007
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C)
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2007 16:19:14 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Locally available parts, etc.
In-Reply-To: <46DF17C8.6080906@comcast.net>
References: <000301c7effb$35487800$6500a8c0@simsoffice>
	<46DF17C8.6080906@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20070905161648.032e4448@nosimport.com>

They actually don't "have" anything. They are an office not to far 
from mine. Everything is drop-shipped.
But, that seems to be the way the industry is going.... oh well.  At 
least they've finally stopped using our logo.

Peter C.
==
At 03:55 PM 9/5/2007, Charlie Baldwin wrote:

>John,
>They have quite a few parts that are correct or will work for our
>British cars for very good prices.  And as you have stated, they are
>made by well-known and respected companies.  I also buy parts from them
>for my everyday cars.  Their website is easy to use and many parts have
>a picture so that you can see what the part actually looks like.  One
>thing to check there is fuel pumps.  They have most of the types that
>have been discussed on the list over the years, including SU.
>For my Volvo 1800, I got rebuilt Girling rear calipers for less than the
>parts would have cost me to do it myself.  The core charge at the time
>was only $5, so I just kept the old ones.
>Charlie
>
>John Sims wrote:
>
> >Has anyone ever shopped at www.rockauto.com I found their site by accident
> >and they appear to have a long list of parts made by such companies as
> >Raybestos, Stant, etc.
> >
> >John Sims, BN6
> >Aberdeen, NJ
> >
> >www.healey6.com

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Wed Sep  5 15:39:35 2007
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 17:39:35 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Locally available parts, etc.
Message-ID: <be6.1b1fe612.34107c17@aol.com>

Whereas if you call Peter C. at Worldwide in Madison, WI you get real  
knowledge and help, even extending to his measuring parts on hand, etc.   I needed 
brake shoes for the rear of my Elva and Peter suggested using  some Saab 
Quantum shoes which worked just fine with a small bit of grinding  to fit the 
adjuster. 
Experienced and helpful parts suppliers are hard to find and deserve our  
support.
 
Best--Michael Oritt
--------------------------------------------------------------------- 
 
In a message dated 9/5/2007 5:20:29 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
peter at nosimport.com writes:

They are  an office not to far from mine. Everything is  drop-shipped.







************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From Kendall.Freese at aerojet.com  Wed Sep  5 17:14:15 2007
From: Kendall.Freese at aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 16:14:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] California smog bill dead
Message-ID: <1B3BD9CCDD89084C9CC405C3258017F501ED3EDB@SACMAIL1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

CALIFORNIA BILL REQUIRING ANNUAL EMISSIONS TESTS FOR VEHICLES 15 YEARS
AND OLDER DEAD FOR THE YEAR
SEMA-opposed legislation (AB 616) that threatened to require annual
smog-check inspections for vehicles 15 years old and older has been
rejected by the Senate Appropriations Committee, after having been
approved previously by the full California Assembly and the Senate
Transportation Committee. The bill also would have required that funds
generated through the additional inspection fees be deposited into an
account which would be used to scrap older cars. The bill is dead for
the year.

"SEMA members, car clubs and individual hobbyists across the state
loudly and forcefully objected to passage of this bill," said SEMA Vice
President of Government Affairs Steve McDonald. "Ultimately, the
lawmakers in Sacramento heard their message."

From rapoague at comcast.net  Wed Sep  5 17:25:26 2007
From: rapoague at comcast.net (Bob Poague)
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 16:25:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Locally available parts, etc.
References: <000301c7effb$35487800$6500a8c0@simsoffice>
Message-ID: <001501c7f014$0edbda90$ab381218@D8400>

I purchased a set of exhaust manifolds for my Ford pickup from Rock Auto a 
few years ago. I was very satisfied with all aspects of the purchase.

Bob

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6 at optonline.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 1:27 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Locally available parts, etc.


> Has anyone ever shopped at www.rockauto.com I found their site by accident
> and they appear to have a long list of parts made by such companies as
> Raybestos, Stant, etc.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Wed Sep  5 20:48:02 2007
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2007 19:48:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Thanks re Saftey gauge
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0709031737n5df38013x2a18c4012809eecb@mail.gmail.co
  m>
References: <8C9BC4137CEF0F4-A08-5CA8@FWM-D41.sysops.aol.com>
	<ff59076c0709031737n5df38013x2a18c4012809eecb@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20070905194533.02857360@pop.att.yahoo.com>

Sorry the statement below is not true.

MoMa lost the red light lens on my speedo and sent it back without 
one. When I pointed it out they sent a repro lens. Fortunately I had 
before pictures and they eventually sent the right lense.

At 08:37 AM 9/4/2007 +0800, Alan Seigrist wrote:
>Bill -
>
>One thing I can say for sure, Margaret Lucas will not let the guage
>leave the shop unless it's perfect.

From 63ahbj7 at gmail.com  Wed Sep  5 21:11:37 2007
From: 63ahbj7 at gmail.com (63AHBJ7)
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 22:11:37 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Thanks re Saftey gauge
References: <8C9BC4137CEF0F4-A08-5CA8@FWM-D41.sysops.aol.com><ff59076c0709031737n5df38013x2a18c4012809eecb@mail.gmail.com>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20070905194533.02857360@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <00ca01c7f033$a4dcca80$6601a8c0@actualshop>

John:

<<Sorry the statement below is not true.>>

Ok so you're the one (0.0001%) that I have finally heard of with a prob.
Sorry.

She was still in CA when I started with her.

Date that!!<G>

Ed

From ZManDino at aol.com  Wed Sep  5 22:17:31 2007
From: ZManDino at aol.com (ZManDino at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 00:17:31 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] California smog bill dead
Message-ID: <c04.1d561c3c.3410d95b@aol.com>

Thanks for the fabulous news.
1960 3000 Austin Healey BN7 MK1 - Lady Godiva   :-}.



**************************************
 Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Wed Sep  5 23:06:40 2007
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Leonard  Hartnett)
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 22:06:40 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] California smog bill dead
In-Reply-To: <1B3BD9CCDD89084C9CC405C3258017F501ED3EDB@SACMAIL1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
References: <1B3BD9CCDD89084C9CC405C3258017F501ED3EDB@SACMAIL1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
Message-ID: <2789CBC4C4D94355845CA437E2ACB6E5@LeonardPC>

Ken:  That is good news, indeed   Even though it turned out that AB616 would 
not have affected our currently exempt cars, it is comforting to know that 
there is a force out there strong enough to fight for our LBCs and other 
older specialty/hobby/collector vehicles.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville,  California,  USA
1967 3000 MKIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Freese, Ken" <Kendall.Freese at aerojet.com>
To: <jensen-cars at british-steel.org>; "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 4:14 PM
Subject: [Healeys] California smog bill dead


> CALIFORNIA BILL REQUIRING ANNUAL EMISSIONS TESTS FOR VEHICLES 15 YEARS
> AND OLDER DEAD FOR THE YEAR
> SEMA-opposed legislation (AB 616) that threatened to require annual
> smog-check inspections for vehicles 15 years old and older has been
> rejected by the Senate Appropriations Committee, after having been
> approved previously by the full California Assembly and the Senate
> Transportation Committee. The bill also would have required that funds
> generated through the additional inspection fees be deposited into an
> account which would be used to scrap older cars. The bill is dead for
> the year.
>
> "SEMA members, car clubs and individual hobbyists across the state
> loudly and forcefully objected to passage of this bill," said SEMA Vice
> President of Government Affairs Steve McDonald. "Ultimately, the
> lawmakers in Sacramento heard their message."
> _______________________________________________
> thehartnetts at earthlink.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net  Thu Sep  6 06:57:22 2007
From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ronald J. Ray)
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 07:57:22 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Thanks re Saftey gauge
In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20070905194533.02857360@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <EKEAINGPLPLMGCBCJIDKAEHHCNAA.ronald-ray@sbcglobal.net>

I sent my speedometer to Moma for repair a few years ago as the odometer was
not working.  Moma refurbished the entire speedometer, sent it back, and the
odometer was still not working.  Nor was the speedometer calibrated
correctly.  I called Margaret Lucas and she instructed me to return the
speedometer to her.  I had to pay the shipping cost.  Moma returned the
speedometer with an operable odometer. The speedometer is still of 10
percent and the far left digit wheel of the odometer (10,000) turned
constantly with the tenth of a mile digit wheel.  After two chances to make
it right, I saw no point in paying the shipping cost to return it again.  So
now I just live with the defects.

Ron



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+ronald-ray=sbcglobal.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ronald-ray=sbcglobal.net at autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of john spaur
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 9:48 PM
To: Alan Seigrist
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thanks re Saftey gauge


Sorry the statement below is not true.

MoMa lost the red light lens on my speedo and sent it back without
one. When I pointed it out they sent a repro lens. Fortunately I had
before pictures and they eventually sent the right lense.

At 08:37 AM 9/4/2007 +0800, Alan Seigrist wrote:
>Bill -
>
>One thing I can say for sure, Margaret Lucas will not let the guage
>leave the shop unless it's perfect.

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Sep  6 07:25:02 2007
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2007 06:25:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Thanks re Saftey gauge
In-Reply-To: <EKEAINGPLPLMGCBCJIDKAEHHCNAA.ronald-ray@sbcglobal.net>
References: <EKEAINGPLPLMGCBCJIDKAEHHCNAA.ronald-ray@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <46DFFFAE.4000309@comcast.net>

Ron,

If you get tired of living with the defects, try Palo Alto Speedometer.

http://www.paspeedo.com/

They ONLY do speedometers.

bs


Ronald J. Ray wrote:
> I sent my speedometer to Moma for repair a few years ago as the odometer was
> not working.  Moma refurbished the entire speedometer, sent it back, and the
> odometer was still not working.  Nor was the speedometer calibrated
> correctly.  I called Margaret Lucas and she instructed me to return the
> speedometer to her.  I had to pay the shipping cost.  Moma returned the
> speedometer with an operable odometer. The speedometer is still of 10
> percent and the far left digit wheel of the odometer (10,000) turned
> constantly with the tenth of a mile digit wheel.  After two chances to make
> it right, I saw no point in paying the shipping cost to return it again.  So
> now I just live with the defects.
>
> Ron
>
>   
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Thu Sep  6 08:21:20 2007
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2007 07:21:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Thanks re Safety gauge
In-Reply-To: <46DFFFAE.4000309@comcast.net>
References: <EKEAINGPLPLMGCBCJIDKAEHHCNAA.ronald-ray@sbcglobal.net>
	<46DFFFAE.4000309@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20070906071857.02926cd8@pop.att.yahoo.com>

Palo Alto Speedometer rebuilt my oil/temp gauge and they did an 
excellent job, even going so far as to replate the body which I did not expect.

John

At 06:25 AM 9/6/2007 -0700, Bob Spidell wrote:
>Ron,
>
>If you get tired of living with the defects, try Palo Alto Speedometer.
>
>http://www.paspeedo.com/
>
>They ONLY do speedometers.
>
>bs

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Sep  6 08:55:46 2007
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2007 14:55:46 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Thanks re Safety gauge
Message-ID: <090620071455.4284.46E014F2000237DC000010BC220702455304040A0B079F9C0D@comcast.net>

I stand corrected; PA Speedo does other gauges as well.

They do, however, specialize in speedos.  The owner, Claus,
is a real craftsman.  


bs

--
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: john spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
> Palo Alto Speedometer rebuilt my oil/temp gauge and they did an 
> excellent job, even going so far as to replate the body which I did not expect.
> 
> John
> 
> At 06:25 AM 9/6/2007 -0700, Bob Spidell wrote:
> >Ron,
> >
> >If you get tired of living with the defects, try Palo Alto Speedometer.
> >
> >http://www.paspeedo.com/
> >
> >They ONLY do speedometers.
> >
> >bs

From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Thu Sep  6 09:47:09 2007
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 11:47:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Throttle linkage bushes
Message-ID: <a06200705c305cd46bb14@[192.168.0.100]>

I noticed in one of the suppliers catalogues that the replacement for 
the throttle linkage bushings (I'm referring to the brass and rubber 
bushings that are on the accelerator pedal shaft, and on the cross 
shaft that is mounted to the bulkhead, on the BJ8, anyway) doesn't 
seem to resemble the original.
Does anyone know a source for the original type? I've seen the whole 
linkage for sale, but I don't need the whole assembly.

Stephen, BJ8

From Kendall.Freese at aerojet.com  Thu Sep  6 09:56:16 2007
From: Kendall.Freese at aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 08:56:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Throttle linkage bushes
In-Reply-To: <a06200705c305cd46bb14@[192.168.0.100]>
References: <a06200705c305cd46bb14@[192.168.0.100]>
Message-ID: <1B3BD9CCDD89084C9CC405C3258017F501ED3EE5@SACMAIL1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

Stephen,
I wouldn't advise using the originals unless absolutely necessary. The
Teflon/Delron feel better and will never wear out. On the originals, the
rubber gets soft from fumes or something and eventually dissapears.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

From alanb at nfahc.co.uk  Thu Sep  6 11:14:06 2007
From: alanb at nfahc.co.uk (Alan)
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 18:14:06 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Throttle linkage bushes
In-Reply-To: <1B3BD9CCDD89084C9CC405C3258017F501ED3EE5@SACMAIL1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
References: <a06200705c305cd46bb14@[192.168.0.100]>
	<1B3BD9CCDD89084C9CC405C3258017F501ED3EE5@SACMAIL1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
Message-ID: <001b01c7f0a9$55daf260$6401a8c0@Dell>

 On the other hand Ken .........
The originals on my BN4 were properly engineered oilite bushes. However they
had fallen apart in the way you describe below. The rubber bonding of the
bush to the case/housing had broken down, possibly by interaction between
the rubber compounds and the mineral oil in the bushes.  The bushes
themselves however were in excellent condition with the added benefit of
being original.

Using a tip publicised a couple of years ago on this list, I reconstructed
the bonding of the bush into the housing using black RTV goo. I should have
boiled the bushes in oil beforehand but that is a comparatively new piece of
advice to the list that I hadn't picked up at the time. RTV appears to be a
silicone based sealant and should be impervious to the oil (I hope so). The
result was a perfect recreation of the original bushes with a slight amount
of elasticity built-in (for self alignment)that would have been there in the
originals.

I'm not saying there is anything wrong with the Teflon bushes - I used them
on my BJ8 - but the originals can be recovered to better than new.
 _______________________________________________
(______________  Alan Bromfield  _______________)
   (______     \____1957-BN4 ___/    _______)
          (_________________________)
            http://www.nfahc.co.uk
        http://www.healey-weekend.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+alanb=nfahc.co.uk at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+alanb=nfahc.co.uk at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Freese, Ken
Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2007 4:56 PM
To: Stephen Hutchings; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Throttle linkage bushes

Stephen,
I wouldn't advise using the originals unless absolutely necessary. The
Teflon/Delron feel better and will never wear out. On the originals, the
rubber gets soft from fumes or something and eventually dissapears.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Thu Sep  6 12:07:14 2007
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 11:07:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Throttle linkage bushes
In-Reply-To: <a06200705c305cd46bb14@[192.168.0.100]>
Message-ID: <186362.61250.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Check our Rare and Hard to Find parts catalog on page
24 THROTTLE ARM -- BUSHES   teflon bushes we have
these made for our customers , call us for prices ...
Norman Nock

British Car Specialists .
 2060 N Wilson Way . Stockton . Ca 94205
209-948-8767 FAX 209-948-1030
www.BritishCarSpecialists.com
tech. questions David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
Parts inquiry, Sheila Nock-Huggins
britishcardoc at sbcglobal.net
   




--- Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com> wrote:

> I noticed in one of the suppliers catalogues that
> the replacement for 
> the throttle linkage bushings (I'm referring to the
> brass and rubber 
> bushings that are on the accelerator pedal shaft,
> and on the cross 
> shaft that is mounted to the bulkhead, on the BJ8,
> anyway) doesn't 
> seem to resemble the original.
> Does anyone know a source for the original type?
> I've seen the whole 
> linkage for sale, but I don't need the whole
> assembly.
> 
> Stephen, BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> sjnnock at sbcglobal.net 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Thu Sep  6 12:25:19 2007
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 14:25:19 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Throttle linkage bushes
Message-ID: <a06200707c305f5ab28eb@[192.168.0.100]>

Thanks for the advice on the throttle bushes. It sounds like the 
teflon replacement is the way to go because in my case it wasn't just 
a matter of the two parts de-bonding, but the non-brass component had 
perished completely.

Stephen, BJ8

From bluechipracing at snet.net  Thu Sep  6 12:35:01 2007
From: bluechipracing at snet.net (bluechip)
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 14:35:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox / OD identification
Message-ID: <003501c7f0b4$a3096570$1f9bfea9@dell>

I have a sideshift gearbox /overdrive assembly I am trying to identify.  the
gearbox number is 10771, the OD is 22/3009/005148.  It has the long shifter
with the two bends, so I think it might be from an early 3000 mkII.  None of
my reference books delineate the gearbox or OD numbers with respect to car
model or year.  Any help would be appreciated.

Jim Smith
East Hampton, CT

From hgmiller3 at qwest.net  Thu Sep  6 13:01:35 2007
From: hgmiller3 at qwest.net (Herbert Miller)
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 14:01:35 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox / OD identification
In-Reply-To: <003501c7f0b4$a3096570$1f9bfea9@dell>
Message-ID: <20070906190145.9AE8462D4FE@mpls-qmqp-05.inet.qwest.net>

Jim
My 1962 MK11 tri-carb has the following #
AH	1962	build date Aug-61	3000	Ivory White	vin#
H-BT7-L/14971	engine #29E-RU-H/1355	body #15106	trans #13383	diff
#13283
It has the two bend shift lever. I will check the OD # tonight.
I also dismantled AH	1959		3000	Col. Red	H-BT7-L/5197
29D-RU-H/6365	body # 5309  many years ago. I cannot remember if it had the
two bend shifter but I can tell you that I have two side shifter OD
transmissions and two two bend shift levers so what are the odds. I will
also check on the 59 trans and OD #s.

Herb Miller 

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+hgmiller3=qwest.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+hgmiller3=qwest.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
bluechip
Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2007 1:35 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox / OD identification

I have a sideshift gearbox /overdrive assembly I am trying to identify.  the
gearbox number is 10771, the OD is 22/3009/005148.  It has the long shifter
with the two bends, so I think it might be from an early 3000 mkII.  None of
my reference books delineate the gearbox or OD numbers with respect to car
model or year.  Any help would be appreciated.

Jim Smith
East Hampton, CT
_______________________________________________
hgmiller3 at qwest.net 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


--
Internal Virus Database is out-of-date.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.15/728 - Release Date: 3/20/2007
8:07 AM
 

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Internal Virus Database is out-of-date.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.15/728 - Release Date: 3/20/2007
8:07 AM

From jcapezzuti at aol.com  Thu Sep  6 13:35:43 2007
From: jcapezzuti at aol.com (jcapezzuti at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2007 15:35:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox / OD identification
In-Reply-To: <003501c7f0b4$a3096570$1f9bfea9@dell>
References: <003501c7f0b4$a3096570$1f9bfea9@dell>
Message-ID: <8C9BED43FB9FB94-508-9AEC@mblk-d34.sysops.aol.com>

Jim,

What is your Engine #??? 

That might help....



-----Original Message-----
From: bluechip <bluechipracing at snet.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 2:35 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox / OD identification



I have a sideshift gearbox /overdrive assembly I am trying to identify.  the
gearbox number is 10771, the OD is 22/3009/005148.  It has the long shifter
with the two bends, so I think it might be from an early 3000 mkII.  None of
my reference books delineate the gearbox or OD numbers with respect to car
model or year.  Any help would be appreciated.

Jim Smith
East Hampton, CT
_______________________________________________
jcapezzuti at aol.com 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From BlkBt7 at aol.com  Thu Sep  6 19:43:12 2007
From: BlkBt7 at aol.com (Bob Brown)
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 20:43:12 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Thanks re Saftey gauge
In-Reply-To: <46DFFFAE.4000309@comcast.net>
References: <EKEAINGPLPLMGCBCJIDKAEHHCNAA.ronald-ray@sbcglobal.net>
	<46DFFFAE.4000309@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <46E0AC92.2030000@aol.com>

Ron & Bob
This spring my speedometer quit, odometer continued to function.
Moma was backed up so I used Palo Alto. Two tries, first came back same
as sent, second odometer & speedometer did not work.
I then talked to Margaret and had a complete working speedometer &
odometer in 10 days.
So who is better Moma or Palo Alto?
Bob

Bob Spidell wrote on 9/6/2007, 8:25 AM:

 > Ron,
 >
 > If you get tired of living with the defects, try Palo Alto Speedometer.
 >
 > http://www.paspeedo.com/
 >
 > They ONLY do speedometers.
 >
 > bs
 >
 >
 > Ronald J. Ray wrote:
 > > I sent my speedometer to Moma for repair a few years ago as the
 > odometer was
 > > not working.  Moma refurbished the entire speedometer, sent it back,
 > and the
 > > odometer was still not working.  Nor was the speedometer calibrated
 > > correctly.  I called Margaret Lucas and she instructed me to return the
 > > speedometer to her.  I had to pay the shipping cost.  Moma returned the
 > > speedometer with an operable odometer. The speedometer is still of 10
 > > percent and the far left digit wheel of the odometer (10,000) turned
 > > constantly with the tenth of a mile digit wheel.  After two chances
 > to make
 > > it right, I saw no point in paying the shipping cost to return it
 > again.  So
 > > now I just live with the defects.
 > >
 > > Ron

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Sep  6 19:53:45 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 09:53:45 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Thanks re Saftey gauge
In-Reply-To: <EKEAINGPLPLMGCBCJIDKAEHHCNAA.ronald-ray@sbcglobal.net>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20070905194533.02857360@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<EKEAINGPLPLMGCBCJIDKAEHHCNAA.ronald-ray@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709061853k7a9ffe20x49859222763c6fc5@mail.gmail.com>

Ron -

I've found with Margaret that if you are very specific about the problems (
i.e. write them down) that she won't let it go out of her shop until it's
perfect.  I had a very difficult BN1 speedo calibration problem and she was
the only shop (sent it to three other shops) that was able to fix it
properly.

I wonder if the problem is she didn't know to look at this issue with your
OD or the calibration?  Usually problems with the OD are hard to notice
because shops don't want to run your OD too much and run up the miles.

Alan


On 9/6/07, Ronald J. Ray <ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> I sent my speedometer to Moma for repair a few years ago as the odometer
> was
> not working.  Moma refurbished the entire speedometer, sent it back, and
> the
> odometer was still not working.  Nor was the speedometer calibrated
> correctly.  I called Margaret Lucas and she instructed me to return the
> speedometer to her.  I had to pay the shipping cost.  Moma returned the
> speedometer with an operable odometer. The speedometer is still of 10
> percent and the far left digit wheel of the odometer (10,000) turned
> constantly with the tenth of a mile digit wheel.  After two chances to
> make
> it right, I saw no point in paying the shipping cost to return it
> again.  So
> now I just live with the defects.
>
> Ron

From 63AHBJ7 at comcast.net  Thu Sep  6 20:31:34 2007
From: 63AHBJ7 at comcast.net (63AHBJ7)
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 21:31:34 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Thanks re Saftey gauge
References: <EKEAINGPLPLMGCBCJIDKAEHHCNAA.ronald-ray@sbcglobal.net><46DFFFAE.4000309@comcast.net>
	<46E0AC92.2030000@aol.com>
Message-ID: <02a301c7f0f7$35bcc320$6601a8c0@actualshop>

<<I then talked to Margaret>>

Who is MORE than willing to LISTEN (and chat<G>), Bob!!

Simply AMAZING what person-to-person COMMUNICATION can accomplish!!!

Just AMAZING!!!

K.I.S.S. Rule # 1.

Ed

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Sep  6 20:45:51 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 21:45:51 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Throttle linkage bushes
References: <a06200707c305f5ab28eb@[192.168.0.100]>
Message-ID: <002701c7f0f9$34f0aea0$6601a8c0@actualshop>

I guess I accidently missed/deleted first post...

<<Thanks for the advice on the throttle bushes.>>

Are you gents talking about the "relay shaft bearing"??

Guess $8.00 bucks is too much to spend every decade or so huh??  And now that
I think about it, I think mine is closer to TWO decades old.  Gee, gotta spend
some MONEY soon<sigh>!!

LOL

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Sep  6 20:58:37 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 10:58:37 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Throttle linkage bushes
In-Reply-To: <a06200705c305cd46bb14@192.168.0.100>
References: <a06200705c305cd46bb14@192.168.0.100>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709061958s36a26d1dlb95d5b2d15c84b3e@mail.gmail.com>

FYI stephen, everything you can do to tighten up bushings and bearings on
the throttle linkage will drastically improve your throttle response.  Go
with the teflon bush the Nocks sell, it's worth it.

On 9/6/07, Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com> wrote:
>
> I noticed in one of the suppliers catalogues that the replacement for
> the throttle linkage bushings (I'm referring to the brass and rubber
> bushings that are on the accelerator pedal shaft, and on the cross
> shaft that is mounted to the bulkhead, on the BJ8, anyway) doesn't
> seem to resemble the original.
> Does anyone know a source for the original type? I've seen the whole
> linkage for sale, but I don't need the whole assembly.

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Sep  6 21:03:47 2007
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2007 20:03:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Thanks re Saftey gauge
In-Reply-To: <46E0AC92.2030000@aol.com>
References: <EKEAINGPLPLMGCBCJIDKAEHHCNAA.ronald-ray@sbcglobal.net>
	<46DFFFAE.4000309@comcast.net> <46E0AC92.2030000@aol.com>
Message-ID: <46E0BF93.1040007@comcast.net>

Looks like it's a roll of the dice with either.


bs

Bob Brown wrote:
> Ron & Bob
> This spring my speedometer quit, odometer continued to function.
> Moma was backed up so I used Palo Alto. Two tries, first came back same
> as sent, second odometer & speedometer did not work.
> I then talked to Margaret and had a complete working speedometer &
> odometer in 10 days.
> So who is better Moma or Palo Alto?
> Bob
>
> Bob Spidell wrote on 9/6/2007, 8:25 AM:
>
>  > Ron,
>  >
>  > If you get tired of living with the defects, try Palo Alto Speedometer.
>  >
>  > http://www.paspeedo.com/
>  >
>  > They ONLY do speedometers.
>  >
>  > bs
>  >
>  >
>  > Ronald J. Ray wrote:
>  > > I sent my speedometer to Moma for repair a few years ago as the
>  > odometer was
>  > > not working.  Moma refurbished the entire speedometer, sent it back,
>  > and the
>  > > odometer was still not working.  Nor was the speedometer calibrated
>  > > correctly.  I called Margaret Lucas and she instructed me to return the
>  > > speedometer to her.  I had to pay the shipping cost.  Moma returned the
>  > > speedometer with an operable odometer. The speedometer is still of 10
>  > > percent and the far left digit wheel of the odometer (10,000) turned
>  > > constantly with the tenth of a mile digit wheel.  After two chances
>  > to make
>  > > it right, I saw no point in paying the shipping cost to return it
>  > again.  So
>  > > now I just live with the defects.
>  > >
>  > > Ron
>
>
>
>   

-- 
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

From DENewman2 at aol.com  Thu Sep  6 21:29:51 2007
From: DENewman2 at aol.com (DENewman2 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 23:29:51 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Thanks re Saftey gauge
Message-ID: <c24.21742ea7.34121faf@aol.com>

In a message dated 9/6/2007 6:54:31 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
healey.nut at gmail.com writes:


 
Ron
 
Margaret has done such good work for me, I have been known to send her a  
modest Christmas gift.
 
 
Don



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From wericars at aol.com  Thu Sep  6 21:50:28 2007
From: wericars at aol.com (wericars at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2007 23:50:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Thanks re Saftey gauge
In-Reply-To: <46E0BF93.1040007@comcast.net>
References: <EKEAINGPLPLMGCBCJIDKAEHHCNAA.ronald-ray@sbcglobal.net>
	<46DFFFAE.4000309@comcast.net> <46E0AC92.2030000@aol.com>
	<46E0BF93.1040007@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8C9BF195D651D9E-6C4-2475@FWM-M10.sysops.aol.com>

Well, I'm guessing I'll stick with Nissonger.? They are the US authorized Smiths repair center or some such thing and have been doing it for decades.


Bill
Boston area
65 BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: Bob Brown <BlkBt7 at aol.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 11:03 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thanks re Saftey gauge



Looks like it's a roll of the dice with either.


bs

Bob Brown wrote:
> Ron & Bob
> This spring my speedometer quit, odometer continued to function.
> Moma was backed up so I used Palo Alto. Two tries, first came back same
> as sent, second odometer & speedometer did not work.
> I then talked to Margaret and had a complete working speedometer &
> odometer in 10 days.
> So who is better Moma or Palo Alto?
> Bob
>
> Bob Spidell wrote on 9/6/2007, 8:25 AM:
>
>  > Ron,
>  >
>  > If you get tired of living with the defects, try Palo Alto Speedometer.
>  >
>  > http://www.paspeedo.com/
>  >
>  > They ONLY do speedometers.
>  >
>  > bs
>  >
>  >
>  > Ronald J. Ray wrote:
>  > > I sent my speedometer to Moma for repair a few years ago as the
>  > odometer was
>  > > not working.  Moma refurbished the entire speedometer, sent it back,
>  > and the
>  > > odometer was still not working.  Nor was the speedometer calibrated
>  > > correctly.  I called Margaret Lucas and she instructed me to return the
>  > > speedometer to her.  I had to pay the shipping cost.  Moma returned the
>  > > speedometer with an operable odometer. The speedometer is still of 10
>  > > percent and the far left digit wheel of the odometer (10,000) turned
>  > > constantly with the tenth of a mile digit wheel.  After two chances
>  > to make
>  > > it right, I saw no point in paying the shipping cost to return it
>  > again.  So
>  > > now I just live with the defects.
>  > >
>  > > Ron
>
>
>
>   

-- 
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************
_______________________________________________
wericars at aol.com 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From wericars at aol.com  Thu Sep  6 21:59:38 2007
From: wericars at aol.com (wericars at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2007 23:59:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Locally available parts, etc.
In-Reply-To: <30763909.1189026194821.JavaMail.root@elwamui-mouette.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <30763909.1189026194821.JavaMail.root@elwamui-mouette.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <8C9BF1AA57B3676-6C4-24A7@FWM-M10.sysops.aol.com>

Has anyone tried that in-line fuel pump?? 







Bill
Boston area
65 BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: Ronald A. Fine <ronfineesq at earthlink.net>
To: John Sims <ahbn6 at optonline.net>; Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 5:03 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Locally available parts, etc.



That is a very impressive site, especially since they offer the same part from 
several manufacturers. 
Ron

-----Original Message-----
>From: John Sims <ahbn6 at optonline.net>
>Sent: Sep 5, 2007 1:27 PM
>To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
>Subject: [Healeys] Locally available parts, etc.
>
>Has anyone ever shopped at www.rockauto.com I found their site by accident
>and they appear to have a long list of parts made by such companies as
>Raybestos, Stant, etc.
>
>John Sims, BN6
>Aberdeen, NJ
> 
>www.healey6.com
> 
>_______________________________________________
>ronfineesq at earthlink.net 
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
_______________________________________________
wericars at aol.com 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Sep  6 22:09:22 2007
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2007 21:09:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting
Message-ID: <46E0CEF2.8020203@comcast.net>

Check it out:

http://moneycentral.msn.com/home.asp

Healeys show up in the strangest places ;)


bs

-- 
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

From serraodan at gmail.com  Thu Sep  6 22:11:33 2007
From: serraodan at gmail.com (Dan Serrao)
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 21:11:33 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Hood Replacement
Message-ID: <13f928820709062111n4263ce2am44d7db551bac8e46@mail.gmail.com>

I have a 63 BJ7 with the original hood still on the car. I think it's time
to replace just in case it ever rains in sunny Arizona. What does the list
recomend? I like the Robbins Sun Fast. What does the list say?? Who is the
best vendor to buy from in these days of inferior after market products?
Looking for suggestions and experiences from all the wise and all knowing.
Thanks

Dan Serrao
1963 BJ7

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Fri Sep  7 04:54:13 2007
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2007 06:54:13 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] fyi - two healey 55 boats for sale
Message-ID: <46E12DD5.1060801@earthlink.net>

Folks,

Was doing some surfing on the web and found two Healey 55 boats for sale 
at: http://peterhamilton.co.uk/ and 
http://www.boatsandoutboards.com/view/F125935/ .

Also ran across a Sprite boat that sold earlier this year.


Bob

From ktaplin at prexar.com  Fri Sep  7 05:19:02 2007
From: ktaplin at prexar.com (Ken Taplin)
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 07:19:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] ZDDP
Message-ID: <002901c7f140$e64808f0$13886341@YOUR85A8F7B8EC>

I read that the zinc and phosporous in SM rated oils have been reduced by
half. The solution is obvious. Use twice as much oil.

From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net  Fri Sep  7 06:58:03 2007
From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ronald J. Ray)
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 07:58:03 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Thanks re Saftey gauge
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0709061853k7a9ffe20x49859222763c6fc5@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <EKEAINGPLPLMGCBCJIDKCEHOCNAA.ronald-ray@sbcglobal.net>

Alan,

I did send a detailed letter both times to Margaret, describing the problems
with the speedometer.
I also provided her with the measurements for calibrating the speedometer
that she requested.
She ran the speedometer 12 miles the last time to test the odometer. I was
surprised she didn't notice the far left digit wheel turning.
I just consider it a $175 bad investment.

Ron Ray

  -----Original Message-----
  From: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com]
  Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2007 8:54 PM
  To: Ronald J. Ray
  Cc: john spaur; healeys at autox.team.net
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thanks re Saftey gauge


  Ron -

  I've found with Margaret that if you are very specific about the problems
(i.e. write them down) that she won't let it go out of her shop until it's
perfect.  I had a very difficult BN1 speedo calibration problem and she was
the only shop (sent it to three other shops) that was able to fix it
properly.

  I wonder if the problem is she didn't know to look at this issue with your
OD or the calibration?  Usually problems with the OD are hard to notice
because shops don't want to run your OD too much and run up the miles.

  Alan


  On 9/6/07, Ronald J. Ray <ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
    I sent my speedometer to Moma for repair a few years ago as the odometer
was
    not working.  Moma refurbished the entire speedometer, sent it back, and
the
    odometer was still not working.  Nor was the speedometer calibrated
    correctly.  I called Margaret Lucas and she instructed me to return the
    speedometer to her.  I had to pay the shipping cost.  Moma returned the
    speedometer with an operable odometer. The speedometer is still of 10
    percent and the far left digit wheel of the odometer (10,000) turned
    constantly with the tenth of a mile digit wheel.  After two chances to
make
    it right, I saw no point in paying the shipping cost to return it again.
So
    now I just live with the defects.

    Ron

From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Fri Sep  7 07:55:58 2007
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 09:55:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] throttle linkage repair
Message-ID: <a06200701c30708c02222@[192.168.0.100]>

Thanks to mr. Finespanner for the helpful file!
Regards,

Stephen

From Warthodson at aol.com  Fri Sep  7 08:37:23 2007
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 10:37:23 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Two seater (BN6,BN7) hardtop seal-final opportunity
Message-ID: <c24.217f06ce.3412bc23@aol.com>

I previously posted the following: 
"The weather seal between the BN6 & BN7 hardtop & rear shroud is unique. It 
is 
actually two "L" shaped seals. One seals the outside of the hardtop to the 
shroud & the other seals the inside of the hardtop to the shroud. An accurate 
reproduction of the original seal is not currently available from any source."
 
 
I have sent the following message to those that previously expressed interest 
& I am posting it here s a final notice to anyone that might want in on this 
opportunity.
 
"I received the preproduction sample for the two seater hardtop to rear 
shroud weather seal. It looks excellent & I am going to authorize production of 
this extrusion ASAP.  
 
The dimensions of the seal were based on a small piece of weather seal 
remaining on my hardtop & also a second two seat hardtop with original weather 
seals. 
 
The price for a set of seals, consisting of two 8' long "L" shaped extrusions 
is $175 total, including shipping within the USA. I anticipate receiving the 
production run in about 3 weeks. I need a commitment from you at this time, if 
you are interested in a set of seals, in order for me to determine the size 
of the production run. I do not need any payment at this time."
 
Please let me know if you have any questions.

 
 
Thanks,
Gary Hodson




************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From Warthodson at aol.com  Fri Sep  7 08:45:38 2007
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 10:45:38 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] carb rebuilders
Message-ID: <d58.133279de.3412be12@aol.com>

Who are the highly recommended carb rebuilders these days?
Thanks,
Gary Hodson



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Fri Sep  7 09:10:44 2007
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 08:10:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Paint in a can
Message-ID: <004801c7f161$43f83450$6501a8c0@XPS400>

I am looking for the company that will mix up a small amount of paint and put
it in a spray can for touch up.
Thanks,
Ron

From Kendall.Freese at aerojet.com  Fri Sep  7 09:18:06 2007
From: Kendall.Freese at aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 08:18:06 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Paint in a can
In-Reply-To: <004801c7f161$43f83450$6501a8c0@XPS400>
References: <004801c7f161$43f83450$6501a8c0@XPS400>
Message-ID: <1B3BD9CCDD89084C9CC405C3258017F501ED3EFA@SACMAIL1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

Ron,
You will probably have to make up your own spray can with a Preval. You
can get those at Kmart/WalMart etc. Actually they work better than
normal spray cans.
Ken Freese

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+ken.freese=aerojet.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ken.freese=aerojet.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Ron Fine
Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 8:11 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Paint in a can

I am looking for the company that will mix up a small amount of paint
and put it in a spray can for touch up.
Thanks,
Ron
_______________________________________________
ken.freese at aerojet.com

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From 57healey at gmail.com  Fri Sep  7 09:19:12 2007
From: 57healey at gmail.com (Patton Dickson)
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 10:19:12 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] carb rebuilders
In-Reply-To: <d58.133279de.3412be12@aol.com>
References: <d58.133279de.3412be12@aol.com>
Message-ID: <743b1e2f0709070819j7dd0983dm672e642b21afba4c@mail.gmail.com>

I highly reccomend Jim Taylor

Here is his contact information.

Jim Taylor
1222 Harned Dr.
Bartlesville, OK  74006
Bus: (918) 333-3444


On 9/7/07, Warthodson at aol.com <Warthodson at aol.com> wrote:
>
> Who are the highly recommended carb rebuilders these days?
> Thanks,
> Gary Hodson
>
>
>
> --
> Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX
> 1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out."

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Fri Sep  7 09:21:22 2007
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 08:21:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Paint in a can
In-Reply-To: <004801c7f161$43f83450$6501a8c0@XPS400>
References: <004801c7f161$43f83450$6501a8c0@XPS400>
Message-ID: <64931987-3FDB-4481-8CCE-8B473090EF22@sbcglobal.net>

Most any auto paint supply company can do this. Just take the trunk  
lid in to them since that is the easiest to take off the car.  Then  
they can scan it and duplicate the paint color.





David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Sep 7, 2007, at 8:10 AM, Ron Fine wrote:

> I am looking for the company that will mix up a small amount of  
> paint and put
> it in a spray can for touch up.
> Thanks,
> Ron
> _______________________________________________
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From sshadle at gmail.com  Fri Sep  7 12:32:09 2007
From: sshadle at gmail.com (Sid Shadle)
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 11:32:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting
In-Reply-To: <46E0CEF2.8020203@comcast.net>
References: <46E0CEF2.8020203@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <889377d50709071132u5ecf4426s9715ec99fb6debc7@mail.gmail.com>

There is also a credit union here on the west coast (Patelco) that features
a picture of a right-hand drive Healey cruisin' down a country road
somewhere(?) on a poster in their offices advertising their rates for new
and used auto loans.  It's a nice picture; looks like a fun drive.

The irony here is that I checked with them a couple of years ago when I was
purchasing a '62 Tri-carb just to see if they would loan me $13K.  Even
though I had deposits with them far exceeding the amount of the loan I was
seeking, the answer was a solid ... "NO - we do not finance purchases of
vehicles that old, even if they are considered *'collector cars'   *".

When I saw the poster recently, proudly displayed on their office wall, I
asked the teller if he knew what kind of car that might be - his reply ...
"Oh, it looks like some Corvette or something."  I then told him it was a
Healey 3000 from the early 60's and related my experience with the loan
question of a few years earlier.  I then asked him why they would display
a poster with a picture of a vehicle that they would not finance.  He gave
me a blank look and called the manager over; she shrugged and explained that
some credit union organization just provided the posters.  I then asked if I
could take one of the posters ... "Nope, can't let you have one."  End of
this little tale.

As for the Tri-carb back then, I bought it; simply withdrew the bucks from
my Patelco account.

**



On 9/6/07, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> Check it out:
>
> http://moneycentral.msn.com/home.asp
>
> Healeys show up in the strangest places ;)
>
>
> bs
>
> --
> ***************************************************************
> Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
> '67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
> ***************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> sshadle at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From ahbn6 at optonline.net  Fri Sep  7 12:42:21 2007
From: ahbn6 at optonline.net (John Sims)
Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2007 14:42:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Paint in a can
In-Reply-To: <64931987-3FDB-4481-8CCE-8B473090EF22@sbcglobal.net>
References: <004801c7f161$43f83450$6501a8c0@XPS400>
	<64931987-3FDB-4481-8CCE-8B473090EF22@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <013d01c7f17e$d3c1b850$6500a8c0@simsoffice>

I have had this done several times. Usually there is a minimum. In the cases
in which I have had it done, the min was 3 cans. No big deal and they do it
pretty fast.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com
 


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
David Nock
Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 11:21 AM
To: Ron Fine
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paint in a can

Most any auto paint supply company can do this. Just take the trunk
lid in to them since that is the easiest to take off the car.  Then
they can scan it and duplicate the paint color.





David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Sep 7, 2007, at 8:10 AM, Ron Fine wrote:

> I am looking for the company that will mix up a small amount of
> paint and put
> it in a spray can for touch up.
> Thanks,
> Ron
> _______________________________________________
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
_______________________________________________
ahbn6 at optonline.net

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Fri Sep  7 13:20:43 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com)
Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2007 14:20:43 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Paint in a can
In-Reply-To: <013d01c7f17e$d3c1b850$6500a8c0@simsoffice>
References: <004801c7f161$43f83450$6501a8c0@XPS400>
	<64931987-3FDB-4481-8CCE-8B473090EF22@sbcglobal.net>
	<013d01c7f17e$d3c1b850$6500a8c0@simsoffice>
Message-ID: <c42dc1017aa2f.7aa2fc42dc101@rdc-kc.rr.com>

Another alternative is a decent airbrush, esp. if you already have the 
paint, probably a more versatile tool for blending,  etc.  But maybe 
requires a little more skill to use and initial investment.

Greg Lemon
54 BN1

From rrengineer at dslextreme.com  Fri Sep  7 13:58:51 2007
From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer at dslextreme.com)
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 12:58:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] ZDDP in Valvoline Oils
Message-ID: <311b8a84282a7ac4cab1a74a.20070907125851.eeratvarre@www.dslextreme.com>

Here is the answer I got from an email sent to Valvoline on ZDDP content
for older flat tappet cam with follower type engines in their Maxlife
Synthetic oils:

"The ZDDP content of the MaxLife Full Synthetic oil is at 800 ppm.  The
consensus in the industry is that the current chemical limits of the
GF-4/SM category are still sufficient to protect all "street" engines,
including older flat tappet foller engines.  The engine tests required for
a GF-4/SM product is just as severe as the older, higher ZDDP allowed
category.  For the special applications (aggressive cams, high HP racing
motors, etc) where the customer needs more ZDDP protection, our NON-GF-4
products still contain the higher levels (such as VR-1 and "not street
legal" racing).  So basically, you can still use the MaxLife products for
this application, but our Valvoline VR1 Racings are the best."

Mike MacLean
60 Sprite
56 BN2

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Fri Sep  7 14:01:20 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 16:01:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] ZDDP in Valvoline Oils
Message-ID: <380-220079572012062@earthlink.net>

FWIW, I have been using VR1 in my Healey and E-Type for a pretty good
while.  Started using it before knowing what ZDDP was--got lucky I guess.

Tom  


> [Original Message]
> From: <rrengineer at dslextreme.com>
> To: <spridgets at autox.team.net>
> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 9/7/2007 3:58:48 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] ZDDP in Valvoline Oils
>
> Here is the answer I got from an email sent to Valvoline on ZDDP content
> for older flat tappet cam with follower type engines in their Maxlife
> Synthetic oils:
>
> "The ZDDP content of the MaxLife Full Synthetic oil is at 800 ppm.  The
> consensus in the industry is that the current chemical limits of the
> GF-4/SM category are still sufficient to protect all "street" engines,
> including older flat tappet foller engines.  The engine tests required for
> a GF-4/SM product is just as severe as the older, higher ZDDP allowed
> category.  For the special applications (aggressive cams, high HP racing
> motors, etc) where the customer needs more ZDDP protection, our NON-GF-4
> products still contain the higher levels (such as VR-1 and "not street
> legal" racing).  So basically, you can still use the MaxLife products for
> this application, but our Valvoline VR1 Racings are the best."
>
> Mike MacLean
> 60 Sprite
> 56 BN2
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Fri Sep  7 16:53:21 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 18:53:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] ROOFS
Message-ID: <380-2200795722532146@earthlink.net>

??  What is this?

Tom  


> [Original Message]
> From: pete farmer <pete.farmer at virgin.net>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 9/7/2007 4:00:18 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] ROOFS
>
> Thank you all for your interest in my roof products, I have listed you and
> will contact you shortly.
>
>  
>
> Pete Farmer.
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From serraodan at gmail.com  Fri Sep  7 18:23:34 2007
From: serraodan at gmail.com (Dan Serrao)
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 17:23:34 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] ROOFS
In-Reply-To: <380-2200795722532146@earthlink.net>
References: <380-2200795722532146@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <13f928820709071723i6f45b057i3a599e06501c706e@mail.gmail.com>

Not sure but I got it too?

On 9/7/07, Tom Felts <tomfelts at earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> ??  What is this?
>
> Tom
>
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: pete farmer <pete.farmer at virgin.net>
> > To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> > Date: 9/7/2007 4:00:18 PM
> > Subject: [Healeys] ROOFS
> >
> > Thank you all for your interest in my roof products, I have listed you
> and
> > will contact you shortly.
> >
> >
> >
> > Pete Farmer.
> > _______________________________________________
> > tomfelts at earthlink.net
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> _______________________________________________
> serraodan at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From insptwo at msn.com  Fri Sep  7 19:01:59 2007
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2007 21:01:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Hood Replacement
In-Reply-To: <13f928820709062111n4263ce2am44d7db551bac8e46@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY106-F3434C97373E2F5BFC78C11ADC60@phx.gbl>

Dan:
I have a Robbins on my 62 BJ7. Good fit and quality.
As usual- no financial interest, blah, blah.
Bill
BJ7


>From: "Dan Serrao" <serraodan at gmail.com>
>To: healeys at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Healeys] Hood Replacement
>Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 21:11:33 -0700
>
>I have a 63 BJ7 with the original hood still on the car. I think it's time
>to replace just in case it ever rains in sunny Arizona. What does the list
>recomend? I like the Robbins Sun Fast. What does the list say?? Who is the
>best vendor to buy from in these days of inferior after market products?
>Looking for suggestions and experiences from all the wise and all knowing.
>Thanks
>
>Dan Serrao
>1963 BJ7
>_______________________________________________
>insptwo at msn.com
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From kt20 at dodo.com.au  Fri Sep  7 19:04:24 2007
From: kt20 at dodo.com.au (keith taylor)
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2007 11:04:24 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] ebay fake listing again
Message-ID: <000801c7f1b4$32feb8b0$0202a8c0@Keith>

Austin Healey listed again        Ebay #190150493207
This add constantly reappears but probably fools no one (I hope)
But for the first time I decided to report a fraud listing

HOW EASY IS IT      for me impossible

I assumed Ebay would have a   "REPORT A FRAUDULENT LISTING"

But NO so I went into various areas IE.   DISPUTES
                                                           SCAM EMAIL
                                                           SECURITY
                                                           CONTACT Ebay
ETC. ETC.
All to no avail No follow up from Ebay NO success IF it is this difficult the
scamers must run riot

SO      how do you report fake listings  ?????

Keith Taylor
Wamberal AUST.
BN
BN2
100m    If I ever finish them

From shop at justbrits.com  Fri Sep  7 19:58:26 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 20:58:26 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] ebay fake listing again
References: <000801c7f1b4$32feb8b0$0202a8c0@Keith>
Message-ID: <009f01c7f1bb$bfdf0170$6601a8c0@actualshop>

Already gone, Keith<G>!!

At bottom of (I think) every ebay page is "Secutiy Center". Select "Report
another Problem".  That goes to Log In or "Guest" log in page.  Do what you
wish.  That takes you to "Contact Us" Page.  Select your "topic".  That is
where I stopped.

Ed

From britcrs at gmail.com  Fri Sep  7 20:02:28 2007
From: britcrs at gmail.com (Marvin James)
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 19:02:28 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] ebay fake listing again
In-Reply-To: <000801c7f1b4$32feb8b0$0202a8c0@Keith>
References: <000801c7f1b4$32feb8b0$0202a8c0@Keith>
Message-ID: <cd33dd3a0709071902l7ea036e3i4727d42ac7dec9bb@mail.gmail.com>

Go to bottom of listing and click on " Report this item"

Cick on (step 1) "Fraudulent Listings ...."

Cick on (Step 2) "You suspect that a listing is fraudulent you didnt bid"

Click continue button

(New Screen) Click "E-Mail us"

You then get a screen with the item number filed out and a block to
add comments.
I usually say "Bogus Listing"

Click "Send" Usually when I do this, the item is gone within a couple
of hours. There have been noticeable exceptions.

Marv J


On 9/7/07, keith taylor <kt20 at dodo.com.au> wrote:
> Austin Healey listed again        Ebay #190150493207
> This add constantly reappears but probably fools no one (I hope)
> But for the first time I decided to report a fraud listing
>
> HOW EASY IS IT      for me impossible
>
> I assumed Ebay would have a   "REPORT A FRAUDULENT LISTING"
>
> But NO so I went into various areas IE.   DISPUTES
>                                                            SCAM EMAIL
>                                                            SECURITY
>                                                            CONTACT Ebay
> ETC. ETC.
> All to no avail No follow up from Ebay NO success IF it is this difficult the
> scamers must run riot
>
> SO      how do you report fake listings  ?????
>
> Keith Taylor
> Wamberal AUST.
> BN
> BN2
> 100m    If I ever finish them
> _______________________________________________
> britcrs at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Fri Sep  7 20:16:37 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 19:16:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] ebay fake listing again
In-Reply-To: <000801c7f1b4$32feb8b0$0202a8c0@Keith>
Message-ID: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKCEKFDFAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>

Hi, Keith -
It's not so easy as having just a single button to push, and I don't know if
the Aussie version of eBay looks the same as the U.S. version, but this is
how I do it:

At the bottom of the eBay description for the car, select REPORT THIS ITEM
This brings up a menu.  If you select EBAY MOTORS OR VEHICLE RELATED, as you
might guess, you'll just go around in circles.  Instead, select FRAUDULENT
LISTINGS (ILLEGAL SELLER DEMANDS, YOU DIDN'T RECEIVE ITEM, ETC.)
This brings up a second menu.  Select YOU SUSPECT A LISTING IS FRAUDULENT,
YOU DIDN'T BID.

Click the CONTINUE button.
This brings up a screen including CONTACT CUSTOMER SUPPORT.
Under that is EMAIL US.  Click on that link.  Type in your User Name and
Password if not already logged in.
Finally, a screen comes up with the item number pre-printed in, and you have
a space to report your suspicions that the item is fraudulent, and your
reasons.  Click the SUBMIT button.

This process is cumbersome and lengthy, but after you go through it a few
times you can click through quickly enough.  I have found that the item is
usually removed from the listings within an hour or two after I report it.
I just reported a fraudulent BJ8 ad yesterday and it was gone within about
15 minutes.  Since I track BJ8s, it's pretty easy for me to spot the frauds
quickly.  I enjoy making the scammers wonder why their ads are gone so soon
after they put them up.

Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
keith taylor
Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 6:04 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] ebay fake listing again


Austin Healey listed again        Ebay #190150493207
This add constantly reappears but probably fools no one (I hope)
But for the first time I decided to report a fraud listing

HOW EASY IS IT      for me impossible

I assumed Ebay would have a   "REPORT A FRAUDULENT LISTING"

But NO so I went into various areas IE.   DISPUTES
                                                           SCAM EMAIL
                                                           SECURITY
                                                           CONTACT Ebay
ETC. ETC.
All to no avail No follow up from Ebay NO success IF it is this difficult
the
scamers must run riot

SO      how do you report fake listings  ?????

Keith Taylor
Wamberal AUST.
BN
BN2
100m    If I ever finish them
_______________________________________________
sbyers at ec.rr.com

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.13.2/985 - Release Date: 9/2/2007
4:32 PM

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Fri Sep  7 21:29:57 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 22:29:57 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] ebay fake listing again
Message-ID: <002801c7f1c8$8833fc50$6401a8c0@toshibauser>

Thanks, I was just looking at an MGB a few days ago, it wasn't particularly
nice and the price was low, and it was in my home town, I bid (price was way
low so wasn't worried) and e-mailed I would like to see the car.

The guy cancels all the bids, go to bid history, he has canceled about 15
bids with the note "e-mail me so I can tell you my reserve--starting to
smell pretty ripe.

Then after the auction ends he sends me an e-mail saying his reserve was
$3500 and did I want to buy the car.  Money would be through ebay with a
$20000 fraud protection program.  I once again said I was in the same town
and wanted to see it.  He emailed again saying basically that he wanted  to
go through e-bay take my money and sell me the car, and that it would be
fraud protected.

My last email was good luck with your scam I have already reported you, not
that anything will happen to the guy.

Anyway, I have seen many fraudulent listings, but this is the first I have
corresponded with the seller on, he wisely did not pick a real nice car at a
ridiculous price, like the $8000 fully restored BJ8 or whatever, but a
driver B that he was trying to scam out at roughly it market value give or
take.

Anyway if you read this whole thing, interesting stuff eh--be careful out
there.

Greg Lemon
54 BN1

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Fri Sep  7 21:30:41 2007
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2007 13:30:41 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] ebay fake listing again
In-Reply-To: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKCEKFDFAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>
References: <000801c7f1b4$32feb8b0$0202a8c0@Keith>
	<NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKCEKFDFAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>
Message-ID: <002401c7f1c8$a3731550$4101a8c0@ibm45xm8v45fmw>

G'day

Just came back from emptying the local antique stores and missed the bogus
listing. I think it's been removed.

Was it the dark green BJ8?

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+p_cquinn=tpg.com.au at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+p_cquinn=tpg.com.au at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
BJ8Healeys
Sent: Saturday, 8 September 2007 12:17 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ebay fake listing again

Hi, Keith -
It's not so easy as having just a single button to push, and I don't know if
the Aussie version of eBay looks the same as the U.S. version, but this is
how I do it:

At the bottom of the eBay description for the car, select REPORT THIS ITEM
This brings up a menu.  If you select EBAY MOTORS OR VEHICLE RELATED, as you
might guess, you'll just go around in circles.  Instead, select FRAUDULENT
LISTINGS (ILLEGAL SELLER DEMANDS, YOU DIDN'T RECEIVE ITEM, ETC.)
This brings up a second menu.  Select YOU SUSPECT A LISTING IS FRAUDULENT,
YOU DIDN'T BID.

Click the CONTINUE button.
This brings up a screen including CONTACT CUSTOMER SUPPORT.
Under that is EMAIL US.  Click on that link.  Type in your User Name and
Password if not already logged in.
Finally, a screen comes up with the item number pre-printed in, and you have
a space to report your suspicions that the item is fraudulent, and your
reasons.  Click the SUBMIT button.

This process is cumbersome and lengthy, but after you go through it a few
times you can click through quickly enough.  I have found that the item is
usually removed from the listings within an hour or two after I report it.
I just reported a fraudulent BJ8 ad yesterday and it was gone within about
15 minutes.  Since I track BJ8s, it's pretty easy for me to spot the frauds
quickly.  I enjoy making the scammers wonder why their ads are gone so soon
after they put them up.

Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

From kt20 at dodo.com.au  Sat Sep  8 00:03:03 2007
From: kt20 at dodo.com.au (keith taylor)
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2007 16:03:03 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] ebay fake listing again
References: <000801c7f1b4$32feb8b0$0202a8c0@Keith><NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKCEKFDFAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>
	<002401c7f1c8$a3731550$4101a8c0@ibm45xm8v45fmw>
Message-ID: <001401c7f1dd$eb4f2ed0$0202a8c0@Keith>

YES IT WAS PATRICK
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>
To: "'BJ8Healeys'" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2007 1:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ebay fake listing again


> G'day
>
> Just came back from emptying the local antique stores and missed the bogus
> listing. I think it's been removed.
>
> Was it the dark green BJ8?
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+p_cquinn=tpg.com.au at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+p_cquinn=tpg.com.au at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> BJ8Healeys
> Sent: Saturday, 8 September 2007 12:17 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] ebay fake listing again
>
> Hi, Keith -
> It's not so easy as having just a single button to push, and I don't know 
> if
> the Aussie version of eBay looks the same as the U.S. version, but this is
> how I do it:
>
> At the bottom of the eBay description for the car, select REPORT THIS ITEM
> This brings up a menu.  If you select EBAY MOTORS OR VEHICLE RELATED, as 
> you
> might guess, you'll just go around in circles.  Instead, select FRAUDULENT
> LISTINGS (ILLEGAL SELLER DEMANDS, YOU DIDN'T RECEIVE ITEM, ETC.)
> This brings up a second menu.  Select YOU SUSPECT A LISTING IS FRAUDULENT,
> YOU DIDN'T BID.
>
> Click the CONTINUE button.
> This brings up a screen including CONTACT CUSTOMER SUPPORT.
> Under that is EMAIL US.  Click on that link.  Type in your User Name and
> Password if not already logged in.
> Finally, a screen comes up with the item number pre-printed in, and you 
> have
> a space to report your suspicions that the item is fraudulent, and your
> reasons.  Click the SUBMIT button.
>
> This process is cumbersome and lengthy, but after you go through it a few
> times you can click through quickly enough.  I have found that the item is
> usually removed from the listings within an hour or two after I report it.
> I just reported a fraudulent BJ8 ad yesterday and it was gone within about
> 15 minutes.  Since I track BJ8s, it's pretty easy for me to spot the 
> frauds
> quickly.  I enjoy making the scammers wonder why their ads are gone so 
> soon
> after they put them up.
>
> Happy Healeying!
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
> _______________________________________________
> kt20 at dodo.com.au
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From linwoodrose at mac.com  Sat Sep  8 06:33:27 2007
From: linwoodrose at mac.com (linwood rose)
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2007 08:33:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] rivet squeezer
Message-ID: <9DEF1ED8-C3F6-47DF-A47E-FBC697391FB1@mac.com>

I ordered and just received a rivet squeezer from Brown Tool to  
install the alloy rivets on the lower back lip of the rear shroud.  
(It appears to be a VERY well made tool, by the way). Not knowing  
about these tools, I did not know that I also needed to order rivet  
squeezer sets! Dog-gone-it, I wanted to finish this job this weekend.

So John, or anyone else, what size rivet squeezer set do I order and  
do I order flush or cupped?

Thanks.

Lin
1960 BT7 in restoration
1959 Bugeye

From tfsbj7 at mindspring.com  Sat Sep  8 07:49:55 2007
From: tfsbj7 at mindspring.com (tfsbj7 at mindspring.com)
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2007 09:49:55 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting
Message-ID: <29257472.1189259395756.JavaMail.root@mswamui-blood.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Not a Healey....

-----Original Message-----
>From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>Sent: Sep 7, 2007 12:09 AM
>To: healeylist <healeys at autox.team.net>
>Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting
>
>Check it out:
>
>http://moneycentral.msn.com/home.asp
>
>Healeys show up in the strangest places ;)
>
>
>bs
>
>-- 
>***************************************************************
>Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
>'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
>***************************************************************
>_______________________________________________
>tfsbj7 at mindspring.com 
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Sep  8 07:55:00 2007
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 08 Sep 2007 06:55:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting
In-Reply-To: <29257472.1189259395756.JavaMail.root@mswamui-blood.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <29257472.1189259395756.JavaMail.root@mswamui-blood.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <46E2A9B4.1070207@comcast.net>

   Picture's gone now, but I disagree.
   No fender flares or any other sign of a repro.
   bs
   tfsbj7 at mindspring.com wrote:

Not a Healey....

-----Original Message-----

From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Sent: Sep 7, 2007 12:09 AM
To: healeylist <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting

Check it out:

http://moneycentral.msn.com/home.asp

Healeys show up in the strangest places ;)

bs

--
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************
_______________________________________________
tfsbj7 at mindspring.com

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

--
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Sep  8 07:57:16 2007
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 08 Sep 2007 06:57:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting
In-Reply-To: <29257472.1189259395756.JavaMail.root@mswamui-blood.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <29257472.1189259395756.JavaMail.root@mswamui-blood.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <46E2AA3C.5050000@comcast.net>

   BTW,  if  you're  looking  at the current picture, it appears to be an
   MGB.
   The  picture  of  the  Healey was a frontal shot on a dirt road with a
   male
   driver and female passenger and was up until last night.
   bs
   tfsbj7 at mindspring.com wrote:

Not a Healey....

-----Original Message-----

From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Sent: Sep 7, 2007 12:09 AM
To: healeylist <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting

Check it out:

http://moneycentral.msn.com/home.asp

Healeys show up in the strangest places ;)

bs

--
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************
_______________________________________________
tfsbj7 at mindspring.com

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

--
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

From quenty at ntelos.net  Sat Sep  8 09:37:01 2007
From: quenty at ntelos.net (Dave Schweninger)
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2007 11:37:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Paint in a can
In-Reply-To: <004801c7f161$43f83450$6501a8c0@XPS400>
References: <004801c7f161$43f83450$6501a8c0@XPS400>
Message-ID: <A59ED1EC-E2C5-4133-8318-4399BECEFFCF@ntelos.net>

Ron
I'v used Burbank Paint countless times. They are on SF road.
Dave and Daisy


On Sep 7, 2007, at 11:10 AM, Ron Fine wrote:

> I am looking for the company that will mix up a small amount of  
> paint and put
> it in a spray can for touch up.
> Thanks,
> Ron
> _______________________________________________
> quenty at ntelos.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Sep  8 12:40:41 2007
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 08 Sep 2007 18:40:41 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting GONE
Message-ID: <090820071840.25465.46E2ECA900030E1400006379220702095304040A0B079F9C0D@comcast.net>

Folks,

The photo of a Healey on the MSN Money site is gone, replaced
by a side-shot of an MGB.


bs

--
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

From retroagogo at comcast.net  Sat Sep  8 17:28:30 2007
From: retroagogo at comcast.net (retroagogo at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 08 Sep 2007 23:28:30 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] rear drum rebuild (was locked parking brake?)
Message-ID: <090820072328.27222.46E3301D000E2D1E00006A5622058861720A9B9B0A0404079A019D0DD203@comcast.net>

I would like to thank everyone for advice to get the rear drums off of my Dad's 1960BT7.  I had to use a wheel puller to get it off, but slowly and no damage and success.  Looking at the brakes and age of the components, I'm looking at rebuilding all the guts of the drum brakes.    Just a little history on the rest of the brake system, the fronts were done just before it was put away 2 years ago, and the hoses were changed over to flexible stainless hoses.  So I'm just looking to do the rear drum innards.

Could someone suggest the parts that should be replaced if you want them as new?  

Thanks for the advice,
Mike


--------------------------------------------------------

Hello,

       I'm new to the list.  I just received my dad's 60 BT7 and have a problem.  He parked the car 2 years ago in the garage with the parking brake on and there were no known issues with the brakes at that time.  When we tried to pull it out, the rear brakes seemed to be locked up.  Could this have been the parking brake locking up, and if so, is it easy to fix?  I don't really know much about the car yet, but plan to get to know it very well over time.

Mike

From eschulz at frontiernet.net  Sat Sep  8 19:17:48 2007
From: eschulz at frontiernet.net (Elton Schulz)
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2007 21:17:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Door Hinge Pin Removal
Message-ID: <003a01c7f27f$3c5e7460$bf5d6546@655vb01>

I need some help again from you fellow Listers out there.
I am trying to remove the hinge pin from the lower door hinge because the
inner half of the hinge is rather sloppy or wobbly around the pin. I removed
the hinge from the door, set it on an anvil upside down and tried to remove
the pin with a punch and 3 lb hammer. The pin would not budge. Is there any
trick that I'm not aware of?
Thanks,
Elton, BJ7 in progress

From kt20 at dodo.com.au  Sat Sep  8 19:56:47 2007
From: kt20 at dodo.com.au (keith taylor)
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 11:56:47 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] fake listing      FOLLOW UP
Message-ID: <001301c7f284$ae31e9a0$0202a8c0@Keith>

THANKS    everyone for the follow up

BUT   OZ   Ebay    is obviously geared to protect the scruples of our founding
settlers,
        OR          maybe the new crop that are in Sydney for APEC.

The OZ Ebay menu is not as user friendly as yours.

FOLLOWING SUGGESTIONS  :-

 REPORT THIS ITEM   >     leads to report item " not received "  >  wait for
end of auction.

SECURITY OR DISPUTE  CONSUL   >   1000 word tutorial with NO useful follow
on.

CONTACT Ebay   >    no reply    > probably left Sydney for the weekend to
avoid associating with villains.

Followed STEVE BAYERS  step by step instructions   >  more  1000 word
tutorials.

JOHN TRIFARI  option   >  send email to   >  SPOOF at Ebay   >  WAITING.

PATRICK (hoo roo) QUINN   If you have been down this road you might offer some
guidance

                                     THERE WILL ALWAYS BE A NEXT TIME

Keith Taylor
WAMBERAL  AUST.
BN
BN2
100M   If I ever finish them

From jsoderling at astound.net  Sat Sep  8 22:54:42 2007
From: jsoderling at astound.net (John Soderling)
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2007 21:54:42 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Increase Exhaust Sound
Message-ID: <011f01c7f29d$89642f20$31c6ea42@Soderling>

About twenty years ago I had a VW based kit car.  The VW engine sound was
pretty anemic.  At a VW performance shop I purchased special chrome exhaust
tips that doubled the decibels and gave it a meaty roar.  I don't remember
what the exhaust tips looked like, except I think they had an increasing taper
to them.
Does anyone know what type of exhaust tips these may have been that upped the
exhaust sound?
Vrooom vrooom,
John

From gaagten at hetnet.nl  Sun Sep  9 04:46:23 2007
From: gaagten at hetnet.nl (Gaagten)
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 12:46:23 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] third brake light
Message-ID: <003901c7f2ce$aa666310$0100000a@Laptop>

Hello
I am looking for an article written by someone of a USA  A-H club, covering
rebuilding the A-H 3000 reflectors into extra stop/traffic lights.
Lost the this article due to computer problems.
Who can give me this info?
Regards,
Ge Aagten
BJ8
The Netherlands.

From comkanuk at cgocable.ca  Sun Sep  9 05:26:09 2007
From: comkanuk at cgocable.ca (gilbert gauthier)
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 07:26:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] leaf sprimg shackle pin
Message-ID: <b043291c5ff3e02196a1010fbe9702e8@cgocable.ca>

Hi all

I am in the process to change the leaf spring on my BT7 .What do you 
suggest to take off the front shackle pin it seem to be frozen there.

tyu

gilbert

From rkorn at simnet.is  Sun Sep  9 05:42:02 2007
From: rkorn at simnet.is (Richard Korn)
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 11:42:02 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] third brake light
References: <003901c7f2ce$aa666310$0100000a@Laptop>
Message-ID: <000501c7f2d6$703086a0$4001a8c0@velad>

I don4t remeber the article but here is the link to Hendrix that does a 
conversion kit.

http://www.hendrixwirewheel.com/stuff.html

Richard
BN2
Iceland
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gaagten" <gaagten at hetnet.nl>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 10:46 AM
Subject: [Healeys] third brake light


> Hello
> I am looking for an article written by someone of a USA  A-H club, 
> covering
> rebuilding the A-H 3000 reflectors into extra stop/traffic lights.
> Lost the this article due to computer problems.
> Who can give me this info?
> Regards,
> Ge Aagten
> BJ8
> The Netherlands.
> _______________________________________________
> rkorn at simnet.is
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From dcongleton at embarqmail.com  Sun Sep  9 05:49:00 2007
From: dcongleton at embarqmail.com (Dallas Congleton)
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 07:49:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] third brake light
References: <003901c7f2ce$aa666310$0100000a@Laptop>
Message-ID: <001801c7f2d7$69cafe70$0201a8c0@your4dacd0ea75>

Your are in luck- The article happens to be in a sample issue of the Austin 
Healey Club of America magazine on their website
Here is a link - go down the list and click download a sample issue- The 
complete issue will download into Adobe Reader.
The excellent article by Charlie Baldwin is on page 26.

 http://www.serve.com/AHCA/magazine.htm

Dallas Congleton
1967 BJ8




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gaagten" <gaagten at hetnet.nl>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 6:46 AM
Subject: [Healeys] third brake light


> Hello
> I am looking for an article written by someone of a USA  A-H club, 
> covering
> rebuilding the A-H 3000 reflectors into extra stop/traffic lights.
> Lost the this article due to computer problems.
> Who can give me this info?
> Regards,
> Ge Aagten
> BJ8
> The Netherlands.
> _______________________________________________
> dcongleton at embarqmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From serraodan at gmail.com  Sun Sep  9 05:52:29 2007
From: serraodan at gmail.com (Dan Serrao)
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 04:52:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] leaf sprimg shackle pin
In-Reply-To: <b043291c5ff3e02196a1010fbe9702e8@cgocable.ca>
References: <b043291c5ff3e02196a1010fbe9702e8@cgocable.ca>
Message-ID: <13f928820709090452o7edbda56p8131205f15b63d48@mail.gmail.com>

I used a product called "Kroil" from Kano in Nashville, TN. You can purchase
online at: www.kanolabs.com

Dan Serrao
1963 BJ7


On 9/9/07, gilbert gauthier <comkanuk at cgocable.ca> wrote:
>
> Hi all
>
> I am in the process to change the leaf spring on my BT7 .What do you
> suggest to take off the front shackle pin it seem to be frozen there.
>
> tyu
>
> gilbert
> _______________________________________________
> serraodan at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From bluechipracing at snet.net  Sun Sep  9 06:29:29 2007
From: bluechipracing at snet.net (bluechip)
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 08:29:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] leaf sprimg shackle pin
References: <b043291c5ff3e02196a1010fbe9702e8@cgocable.ca>
Message-ID: <002e01c7f2dd$11996bf0$1f9bfea9@dell>

SAWSALL!


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "gilbert gauthier" <comkanuk at cgocable.ca>
To: "HEALEY MAIL" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 7:26 AM
Subject: [Healeys] leaf sprimg shackle pin


> Hi all
> 
> I am in the process to change the leaf spring on my BT7 .What do you 
> suggest to take off the front shackle pin it seem to be frozen there.
> 
> tyu
> 
> gilbert
> _______________________________________________
> bluechipracing at snet.net 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From smithn00 at kitepilot.net  Sun Sep  9 06:32:17 2007
From: smithn00 at kitepilot.net (Ned Smith)
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 08:32:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] leaf sprimg shackle pin
In-Reply-To: <b043291c5ff3e02196a1010fbe9702e8@cgocable.ca>
Message-ID: <001401c7f2dd$789826c0$6401a8c0@nedsmith>

I had to resort to a SawsAll.

Ned Smith
 
62 Tbird HT
67 Austin-Healey BJ8
 
Near Chattanooga, TN
N34.89, W85.47

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+smithn00=kitepilot.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+smithn00=kitepilot.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
gilbert gauthier
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 7:26 AM
To: HEALEY MAIL
Subject: [Healeys] leaf sprimg shackle pin

Hi all

I am in the process to change the leaf spring on my BT7 .What do you 
suggest to take off the front shackle pin it seem to be frozen there.

tyu

gilbert
_______________________________________________
smithn00 at kitepilot.net 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From HealeyBJ7 at aol.com  Sun Sep  9 06:59:37 2007
From: HealeyBJ7 at aol.com (HealeyBJ7 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 08:59:37 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Windshield to cowl gasget - BJ8
Message-ID: <cee.1a05bfc6.34154839@aol.com>

Once again, I need to ask the knowledgable group a reassembly question. 
I have probably just ruined the second widshield to cowl gasget on a BJ8.  
I've used two different sources and still cannot get the gasget in around the  
bend in the frame. The windshield shop I took the first one to tried for three  
hours and said they would cut the " T " shape from the bottom edge and glue 
the  gasget in at the corners. This didn't seem right so I got a new gasget and 
have  been trying to do it myself. The new gasget has a better profile and I 
can work  it in on the straight section of the frame, but not around the 
bends. I've even  taken the windshield frame back apart and am working with the 
bottom frame  member by itself on the bench, but still no sucess.
Anyone have any tips or suggestions on how to do this job??
 
PS  I see the tech article by Jean Caron in the August issue of the  Austin 
Healey Magazine about installing a grill in a BJ8. He starts out by  saying, " 
Other than installing the windshield bottom seal on a BJ7/BJ8, the  
installation of the ...... is my least favorite job on an Austin Healey". Guess  what my 
NEXT project will be?
 
Thanks for any advice you can offer,
Bob



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From autofarm at cyg.net  Sun Sep  9 07:16:46 2007
From: autofarm at cyg.net (Bob Yule)
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 09:16:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Windshield to cowl gasget - BJ8
References: <cee.1a05bfc6.34154839@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000e01c7f2e3$ad887e10$6400a8c0@OFFICE>

    Bob, we seem to have done this job more times than I would like. On some 
of the aftermarket seals, the "T" section is really too thick.  You have to 
make sure the slot is open as far as it should be. Many times it has been 
squeezed down to hold the seal in.  You need to pry it open all round the 
curve.  Then after the seal is worked in from the middle, you need another 
person to pull the seal really tight.  It can then usually be worked in 
around the curve, while under tension.  When one side is in, tape it in 
place untill the other side is in and then install the windshield as quickly 
as possible.  You will find that the shape of the car to frame holds it all 
in place.  We have been trying to find better seals for some time now, and 
one of our suppliers is finally listening.  Unfortunatly this won't help you 
this weekend.  Good luck!!
Cheers.......Bob
Check out our web site www.autofarm.net
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <HealeyBJ7 at aol.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Cc: <david.r.altman at altmancompany.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 8:59 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Windshield to cowl gasget - BJ8


> Once again, I need to ask the knowledgable group a reassembly question.
> I have probably just ruined the second widshield to cowl gasget on a BJ8.
> I've used two different sources and still cannot get the gasget in around 
> the
> bend in the frame. The windshield shop I took the first one to tried for 
> three
> hours and said they would cut the " T " shape from the bottom edge and 
> glue
> the  gasget in at the corners. This didn't seem right so I got a new 
> gasget and
> have  been trying to do it myself. The new gasget has a better profile and 
> I
> can work  it in on the straight section of the frame, but not around the
> bends. I've even  taken the windshield frame back apart and am working 
> with the
> bottom frame  member by itself on the bench, but still no sucess.
> Anyone have any tips or suggestions on how to do this job??
>
> PS  I see the tech article by Jean Caron in the August issue of the 
> Austin
> Healey Magazine about installing a grill in a BJ8. He starts out by 
> saying, "
> Other than installing the windshield bottom seal on a BJ7/BJ8, the
> installation of the ...... is my least favorite job on an Austin Healey". 
> Guess  what my
> NEXT project will be?
>
> Thanks for any advice you can offer,
> Bob

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Sep  9 07:28:21 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 21:28:21 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] reflector brake light - NIFTY UPGRADE
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709090628u2ba5acdeo40361ceb44bcfc97@mail.gmail.com>

> I thought y'all would like to know that I have done an even better thing
> with this reflector conversion.
>
> I have been watching LED technology for some time and I have found a
> company that makes a very VERY high intensity 1157.  Trust me these lights
> are as bright, if not brighter than halogen bulbs... and they're better
> because they last forever and they have "instant on" functionality, plus the
> bulbs never get hot.
>
> This is how the set up looks before final assembly on my early '64 BJ8:
>
>
> http://picasaweb.google.com/Healey.Nut/HealeyNutSCarStuff/photo#5108189838072380146
>
>
> I bought the LED from this company:
>
> http://autolumination.com/1156_1157.htm
>
> The LED I bought to use with the reflector was the Eagle Eye II 1157 in
> red (red is usually the brightest type of LED).  I also bought the 1157
> sockets from the same company.  As you can see in my picture above I
> installed a ground wire at the bottom of the socket, as the light will be
> isolated from ground when mounted.
>
> I drilled a hole in the rubber mount using a 25mm carbide tipped hole
> drill bit.  The Eagle Eye II light fits very nicely in the hole and will not
> fall out (slight interference fit).
>
> The only thing with these LEDs are the running lights and the brake lights
> are almost the same brightness (out of the box), so I put an inline 100
> ohm/5 watt resistor on the running light circuit and now it all works
> perfectly.  The light draws enough current so that a standard flasher will
> still work with this bulb.  So, now my reflectors have running lights as
> well as brake/turnsignal lights.  It works really well!
>
>  FYI I also bought the Eagle Eye Tower 1157 (red) and put that in the
> standard Lucas turnsignals.
>
> Just one question - one of the reflectors has silver paint on it.  Any
> recommendation for getting rid of the liver paint so the light will be
> brighter?  Will Tamaya hobby thinner work?
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Alan
>

 '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Sep  9 08:00:25 2007
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 10:00:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 2007 Club Calendar
Message-ID: <20070909.100027.2104.0.dwflagg@juno.com>

If anyone is in need of a 2007 AHCA calendar, please contact me off the
list. Thanks.

Doug

From Warthodson at aol.com  Sun Sep  9 08:21:11 2007
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 10:21:11 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Windshield to cowl gasget - BJ8
Message-ID: <cd9.196e828d.34155b57@aol.com>

I will be tackling this project soon & would appreciate knowing the source 
for the better profile.
Thanks,
Gary Hodson
 
In a message dated 9/9/2007 8:00:44 AM Central Daylight Time, 
HealeyBJ7 at aol.com writes:

The new gasget has a better profile 





************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From CAWS52803 at aol.com  Sun Sep  9 08:24:40 2007
From: CAWS52803 at aol.com (CAWS52803 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 10:24:40 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] AH car badge
Message-ID: <d26.123d485e.34155c28@aol.com>

Hi all,
I found a car badge that I will part with and am making available thru the
list.

It is a 3" metal cloisonni from:

Monterey '85
10th Austin-Healey
West Coast Meet

It has a tree in the center and is dark blue, light blue, brown, green and
white.  It is in excellent condition.
Make me an offer, including shipping and I'll get it off to you.

Rudy Streng
Lenoir, NC
AN5
BN4




************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Sep  9 08:44:07 2007
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 10:44:07 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Car Badge
Message-ID: <20070909.104407.1816.0.dwflagg@juno.com>

I have a new car badge from Conclave '98 celebrating the 100th birthday
of Donald M. Healey. If interested, please contact me off the list.

Doug

From m.brouillette at comcast.net  Sun Sep  9 09:21:41 2007
From: m.brouillette at comcast.net (m.brouillette at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 09 Sep 2007 15:21:41 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] AH car badge
Message-ID: <090920071521.8913.46E40F8500009B69000022D122070208530A9B9B0A0404079A019D0DD203@comcast.net>

Since a couple badge offers have been put out there I thought I'd put out a search request.

I'm still looking for a badge from the 12th annual that was held in Sonoma.  If you have one you'd be willing to sell, please let me know.

Mike Brouillette
Bedford, NH
59 Bt7

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Sep  9 09:27:53 2007
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 11:27:53 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Books
Message-ID: <20070909.112753.3216.0.dwflagg@juno.com>

I have available the following books, that unless otherwise noted are in
like new condition and hard cover.
 
 
         1) My World of Cars - Donald Healey, First printing 1989
 
         2) Austin Healey The Story of the Big Healeys - Geoffrey Healey,
First printing 1978
 
         3) Healeys and Austin-Healeys - Peter Browning and Les Needham,
Reprint (last)
             of the new second edition 1979
 
         4) Healey The Handsome Brute - Chris Harvey, First printing 1978
 
         5) Illustrated Austin-Healey Buyer's Guide - Richard Newton,
First  printing
             (soft cover) 1984
 
         6) Austin Healey 100 Super Profile - John Wheatley, First
printing 1986


Doug

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Sep  9 09:46:09 2007
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 11:46:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Plinth (pod)
Message-ID: <20070909.114610.3216.1.dwflagg@juno.com>

I have a set of reproduction 100 reflector plinths. They appear to be
cast aluminum. Also, have an original passenger side plinth with some
surface corrosion on one side. The original is available for shipping
costs and the repros are cheap. If interested, please contact me off the
list. Thanks.

Regards,

Doug

From insptwo at msn.com  Sun Sep  9 10:34:57 2007
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Sun, 09 Sep 2007 12:34:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Windshield to cowl gasget - BJ8
In-Reply-To: <cee.1a05bfc6.34154839@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY106-F40F70CB6C224CA18A7B1B2ADC70@phx.gbl>

Bob:
After going thru the same problems plus, I ordered the gasket thru Healey 
Surgeons. Used a little liquid Dawn (do not use any liquids with lemon 
freshner). My wife fed while I slipped it around and thru the track,. It 
took, probably, 2 minutes and will shape around and down behinid the fender. 
Before that, I had gone thru 2 gaskets from other suppliers. They seem to be 
the only one who had the right side gasket.
Bill
BJ7


>From: HealeyBJ7 at aol.com
>To: healeys at autox.team.net
>CC: david.r.altman at altmancompany.com
>Subject: [Healeys] Windshield to cowl gasget - BJ8
>Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 08:59:37 EDT
>
>Once again, I need to ask the knowledgable group a reassembly question.
>I have probably just ruined the second widshield to cowl gasget on a BJ8.
>I've used two different sources and still cannot get the gasget in around 
>the
>bend in the frame. The windshield shop I took the first one to tried for 
>three
>hours and said they would cut the " T " shape from the bottom edge and glue
>the  gasget in at the corners. This didn't seem right so I got a new gasget 
>and
>have  been trying to do it myself. The new gasget has a better profile and 
>I
>can work  it in on the straight section of the frame, but not around the
>bends. I've even  taken the windshield frame back apart and am working with 
>the
>bottom frame  member by itself on the bench, but still no sucess.
>Anyone have any tips or suggestions on how to do this job??
>
>PS  I see the tech article by Jean Caron in the August issue of the  Austin
>Healey Magazine about installing a grill in a BJ8. He starts out by  
>saying, "
>Other than installing the windshield bottom seal on a BJ7/BJ8, the
>installation of the ...... is my least favorite job on an Austin Healey". 
>Guess  what my
>NEXT project will be?
>
>Thanks for any advice you can offer,
>Bob
>
>
>
>************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
>_______________________________________________
>insptwo at msn.com
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From gbrierton at hotmail.com  Sun Sep  9 12:15:27 2007
From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (G. Brierton)
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 14:15:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Conclave memorabilia
Message-ID: <BLU107-DAV15EF81BE6E704AE670452CB3C70@phx.gbl>

I am collecting memorabilia from Conclaves I attended over the years,
because my stash was stolen, along with my truck several years ago.  I would
be interested in:
1977-Seven Springs, PA - pin, patch & grill;

1978-Louisville, KY - pin, patch, dash & grill;

1979-Asheville, NC - pin, patch & grill;

1981-Fredericksburg, VA - pin, patch, dash & grill;

1985-Charlotte, NC - pin, patch, dash & grill;

1990-Rockford, IL - dash & grill;

1991-Sturbridge, MA - grill;

1992-Breckenridge, CO - grill;

1993-Louisville, KY - patch;

1994-Atlanta, GA - patch, dash & grill;

1996-Asheville, NC - patch, dash & grill;

1997-Park City, UT - patch;

1998-Boyne, MI - dash & grill;

1999-St. Louis, MO - dash;

2000-Indianapolis, IN - grill;


2003-Washington, DC - patch, dash & grill;

2004-San Antonio, TX - pin, patch, dash & grill;

2006-Akron, OH - patch & grill;

2007-Burlington, VT - grill



Gary Brierton

From kt20 at dodo.com.au  Sun Sep  9 16:19:12 2007
From: kt20 at dodo.com.au (keith taylor)
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 08:19:12 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Plinth (pod)
References: <20070909.114610.3216.1.dwflagg@juno.com>
Message-ID: <000801c7f32f$73ca51c0$0202a8c0@Keith>

DOUG
I have 3   100's     2xBN 2 & a BN 1
I am missing a  l/h  plinth, butchered off with a crowbar

It  would be happy living in OZ always sunny surf  2min. away 
& regular trips to the Blue Mountains good accommodation parties 
with friends of same species smog free country air.

If you cannot find a home for the repo's I would 
fit them to the BN1  It will never be a concourse car
& I must fit reflectors for registration.

Regards
Keith Taylor
WAMBERAL AUST.
BN
BN2
100M    If I ever finish them

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 1:46 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Plinth (pod)


>I have a set of reproduction 100 reflector plinths. They appear to be
> cast aluminum. Also, have an original passenger side plinth with some
> surface corrosion on one side. The original is available for shipping
> costs and the repros are cheap. If interested, please contact me off the
> list. Thanks.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Doug
> _______________________________________________
> kt20 at dodo.com.au 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Sun Sep  9 19:05:12 2007
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 21:05:12 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator question
Message-ID: <a06200702c30a45baef58@[192.168.0.100]>

I've come across a problem I haven't seen covered with the 
trafficator. Before anyone suggests, I've looked at the many useful 
step by step photos on the various websites, and found them 
invaluable when I replaced the trafficator wiring a few years 
back....but!
The portion of the cancelling mechanism which rotates and pushes back 
in the "triggers" also snags on the control arm when it reaches that 
part of the rotation, and pulls it over into a signalling position 
again....... It is tempting to slightly bend the metal cancelling 
piece that rotates, but I fear it wouldn't then  be tight enough to 
cancel the "triggers".
If anyone finds this unclear, but thinks they can help, I can email a 
drawing that explains the problem  in a more graphic way.

Thanks,
Stephen, BJ8

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sun Sep  9 19:18:50 2007
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 21:18:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator question
References: <a06200702c30a45baef58@[192.168.0.100]>
Message-ID: <029401c7f348$8c3fba10$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>

Stephen,

Sounds like the triggers are installed backwards. They should be in a V in 
relation to each other.

Rich Chrysler
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 9:05 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator question


> I've come across a problem I haven't seen covered with the
> trafficator. Before anyone suggests, I've looked at the many useful
> step by step photos on the various websites, and found them
> invaluable when I replaced the trafficator wiring a few years
> back....but!
> The portion of the cancelling mechanism which rotates and pushes back
> in the "triggers" also snags on the control arm when it reaches that
> part of the rotation, and pulls it over into a signalling position
> again....... It is tempting to slightly bend the metal cancelling
> piece that rotates, but I fear it wouldn't then  be tight enough to
> cancel the "triggers".
> If anyone finds this unclear, but thinks they can help, I can email a
> drawing that explains the problem  in a more graphic way.
>
> Thanks,
> Stephen, BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From wericars at aol.com  Sun Sep  9 21:46:40 2007
From: wericars at aol.com (wericars at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 09 Sep 2007 23:46:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Windshield to cowl gasget - BJ8
In-Reply-To: <BAY106-F40F70CB6C224CA18A7B1B2ADC70@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8C9C174548530B0-118C-200D@webmail-mf13.sysops.aol.com>

I agree with Bill and not just because his name is Bill ;)? I'll just add that instead of dawn I used a rubber seal preserver/cleaner.? I think it was made by Mothers or Maguires.? It is very oily, but made for rubber seals, so I don't have to worry about my seal making suds when it rains out.

Also, clean the channel groove with a good de-greaser if it wasn't cleaned before.


Bill
Boston area
65 BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: insptwo at msn.com
To: HealeyBJ7 at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 12:34 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Windshield to cowl gasget - BJ8



Bob:
After going thru the same problems plus, I ordered the gasket thru Healey 
Surgeons. Used a little liquid Dawn (do not use any liquids with lemon 
freshner). My wife fed while I slipped it around and thru the track,. It 
took, probably, 2 minutes and will shape around and down behinid the fender. 
Before that, I had gone thru 2 gaskets from other suppliers. They seem to be 
the only one who had the right side gasket.
Bill
BJ7


>From: HealeyBJ7 at aol.com
>To: healeys at autox.team.net
>CC: david.r.altman at altmancompany.com
>Subject: [Healeys] Windshield to cowl gasget - BJ8
>Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 08:59:37 EDT
>
>Once again, I need to ask the knowledgable group a reassembly question.
>I have probably just ruined the second widshield to cowl gasget on a BJ8.
>I've used two different sources and still cannot get the gasget in around 
>the
>bend in the frame. The windshield shop I took the first one to tried for 
>three
>hours and said they would cut the " T " shape from the bottom edge and glue
>the  gasget in at the corners. This didn't seem right so I got a new gasget 
>and
>have  been trying to do it myself. The new gasget has a better profile and 
>I
>can work  it in on the straight section of the frame, but not around the
>bends. I've even  taken the windshield frame back apart and am working with 
>the
>bottom frame  member by itself on the bench, but still no sucess.
>Anyone have any tips or suggestions on how to do this job??
>
>PS  I see the tech article by Jean Caron in the August issue of the  Austin
>Healey Magazine about installing a grill in a BJ8. He starts out by  
>saying, "
>Other than installing the windshield bottom seal on a BJ7/BJ8, the
>installation of the ...... is my least favorite job on an Austin Healey". 
>Guess  what my
>NEXT project will be?
>
>Thanks for any advice you can offer,
>Bob
>
>
>
>************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
>_______________________________________________
>insptwo at msn.com
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
_______________________________________________
wericars at aol.com 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Mon Sep 10 08:05:03 2007
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 10:05:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator question
Message-ID: <a06200703c30afd9b25fb@[192.168.0.100]>

Hi Rich, Ed, and anyone who's interested: I have looked at the 
pictures on Ed's website.

I was afraid that my email may be misunderstood........the triggers 
are not installed backwards, they work just fine- it's that the metal 
piece which rotates and trips them seems too tight to the bakelite 
body, and after cancelling the trigger, snags the control arm and 
moves it as well. As I mentioned in my previous email, I'm concerned 
that if I bend it away it will not have enough interference to move 
the triggers.

Stephen, BJ8

From JNBrashear at garverengineers.com  Mon Sep 10 09:32:17 2007
From: JNBrashear at garverengineers.com (Brashear, Jack, N)
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 10:32:17 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] third brake light
In-Reply-To: <001801c7f2d7$69cafe70$0201a8c0@your4dacd0ea75>
Message-ID: <2D0989D186D44349BE853EE6CFC87AE603530389@glitas07.garverinc.local>

Hey All, I did a third brake light addition to my BT7 Mk2 that looks
pretty cool and works very well.  My idea wasn't original but I used a
trunk mounted unit from an XJS convertible.  I'll send a photo of it on
my car if anyone's interested.  Oh yes, I turned my rear reflectors into
directional signals using 1157 bulbs and stock Lucas sockets I scrounged
from my parts pile and domed reflectors ala 100-6.  Sooo, concours
people be warned.  They work great and they were cheap too!!
Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+jnbrashear=garverengineers.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+jnbrashear=garverengineers.com at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dallas Congleton
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 6:49 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net; Gaagten
Subject: Re: [Healeys] third brake light

Your are in luck- The article happens to be in a sample issue of the
Austin
Healey Club of America magazine on their website
Here is a link - go down the list and click download a sample issue- The

complete issue will download into Adobe Reader.
The excellent article by Charlie Baldwin is on page 26.

 http://www.serve.com/AHCA/magazine.htm

Dallas Congleton
1967 BJ8




----- Original Message -----
From: "Gaagten" <gaagten at hetnet.nl>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 6:46 AM
Subject: [Healeys] third brake light


> Hello
> I am looking for an article written by someone of a USA  A-H club,
> covering
> rebuilding the A-H 3000 reflectors into extra stop/traffic lights.
> Lost the this article due to computer problems.
> Who can give me this info?
> Regards,
> Ge Aagten
> BJ8
> The Netherlands.

From helyjohn at cablespeed.com  Mon Sep 10 11:03:08 2007
From: helyjohn at cablespeed.com (John Snyder)
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 09:03:08 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] 1959 BN4 for sale
Message-ID: <001101c7f3cc$76af5af0$f030eb42@FRED>

While I had my BN7 MK2 at a car show yesterday, a guy came up to me and asked
if I knew anyone that wanted to buy an Austin Healey.

He has a 1959 BN4 that he has owned for 30 years.  He and his wife have lost
interest in it, and it just sits in his garage.  He said it has some small
rust "blisters" in the rocker panels, but otherwise was a good car.  He said
he wanted $20,000 for it, but further discussion indicated he might go as low
as $15,000.  I told him I would spread the word around.  I am in the middle of
restoring an other BN7 and have no interest in his car.  I have not seen the
car and have no financial interest in him selling it.

The latest issue of Sports Car Market Price Guide shows the price range on
this car from $25,000 to $40,000.

The guy's name is Carl Christenson.  Cell 206-947-3078  Home 206-783-9707  The
car is in the Seattle, WA area.

John Snyder
1959 BN7
1960 BT7
1961 BN7 MK2
1962 BT7 MK2

From jstmorris at yahoo.com  Mon Sep 10 11:10:42 2007
From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris)
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 13:10:42 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox / OD identification
In-Reply-To: <003501c7f0b4$a3096570$1f9bfea9@dell>
Message-ID: <980733.36471.qm@web30311.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello Jim;  Perhaps this table from a Laycock paper will help.
  --Scott Morris, Simcoe, Ontario, Canada;  '60 MkI BN7, '62 MkII BT7
   
  Laycock de Normanville Overdrives  A-Type
            Unit
  Type
    Ratio
    Serial No.
    Model
    Year
    Hydraulic Pressure
  P.S.I.
    Notes
    R
  E
  F
      A
    SN 28
    1292
    Austin Healey 100-4
     
    420  440
     
    L
      A
    SN 28
    1447
    Austin Healey 100-6
     
    470  490
     
    L
      A
    SN 22
    3009
    Austin Healey 3000
     
    470  490
     
    L
      A
    SN 22
    3087
    Austin Healey 3000
     
    470  490
     
    L

   
   
  REF:
  L  Laycock Overdrive - Section 1: Working Principles, Maintenance and Fault Finding , Laycock Engineering Ltd, Undated
  
bluechip <bluechipracing at snet.net> wrote:
  I have a sideshift gearbox /overdrive assembly I am trying to identify. the gearbox number is 10771, the OD is 22/3009/005148. It has the long shifter with the two bends, so I think it might be from an early 3000 mkII. None of my reference books delineate the gearbox or OD numbers with respect to car model or year. Any help would be appreciated.    Jim Smith    East Hampton, CT

J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
       
---------------------------------
Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail  

From jstmorris at yahoo.com  Mon Sep 10 11:39:51 2007
From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris)
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 13:39:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox / OD identification
In-Reply-To: <003501c7f0b4$a3096570$1f9bfea9@dell>
Message-ID: <109982.42666.qm@web30307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello Jim;  My last email had the table all over the place.  Perhaps this one will work better.  It is taken from a Laycock paper with a listing for all A-Type OD in various vehicles.  I also added the early 32% in the first 100's.
  --Scott Morris, Simcoe, Ontario, Canada; '60 MkI BN7, '62 MkII BT7
   
  Laycock de Normanville Overdrives : A-Type  Ratio_____Serial No._____Model_____Hydraulic Pressure P.S.I
  SN32____1260________AH100____??????
  SN28____1292________AH100____420-440
  SN28____1447________AH100-6___470-490
  SN22____3009________AH3000____470-490
  SN22____3087________AH3000____470-490
   
  REF: 
   Laycock Overdrive - Section 1: Working Principles, Maintenance and Fault Finding , Laycock Engineering Ltd, Undated
  -- "Original Austin-Healey", Clausager 1990, pg 25
   
  
bluechip <bluechipracing at snet.net> wrote:
  I have a sideshift gearbox /overdrive assembly I am trying to identify. the gearbox number is 10771, the OD is 22/3009/005148. It has the long shifter with the two bends, so I think it might be from an early 3000 mkII. None of my reference books delineate the gearbox or OD numbers with respect to car model or year. Any help would be appreciated.  Jim Smith  East Hampton, CT

J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
       
---------------------------------
 All new Yahoo! Mail - 
---------------------------------
Get a sneak peak at messages with a handy reading pane.

From JNBrashear at garverengineers.com  Mon Sep 10 13:22:31 2007
From: JNBrashear at garverengineers.com (Brashear, Jack, N)
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 14:22:31 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Need a BJ8 fuel gauge
Message-ID: <2D0989D186D44349BE853EE6CFC87AE6035304A5@glitas07.garverinc.local>

Hi All, I need a fuel gauge ala BJ8 (No. FG2333/10 on face) that is
clean and that actually works (not like mine).  Can anyone help with
availability and price??  Many Thanks,



Jack

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Mon Sep 10 16:42:20 2007
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Leonard  Hartnett)
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 15:42:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Tidbit
Message-ID: <5F2F7FBB39A5485FB0C091165D0B93BC@LeonardPC>

Always on the lookout for obscure mention of Healeys, the following appeared
in the August 27, 2007, issue of AutoWeek magazine. The article notes the 50
year anniversary of the Madison Avenue Sports Car Driving and Chowder Society
(Chowderheads) at Sardi's restaurant in Manhattan. According to the article,
Sardi, a sports-car racer, volunteered a luncheon venue in 1957 for a group of
car aficioados who had been meeting at Le Chanteclair, the New York restaurant
owned by French racing great Rene Dreyfus when the group got too large to be
accomodated.

.  People quoted are: Ernst Lieb, president and CEO of Mercedes Benz USA and
Bruce Wennerstrom, co-chair of the organization and the Greenwhich Concours
d'Elegance.

".During the anniversary gathering, Lieb reprised 50 years of Mercedes' U.S.
history, while Wennerstrom reviewed 50 years of hilarious camaraderie. Sardi's
helmet and a portrait of his Healey were close at hand.".

(The Other) Len
Vacaville,  California,  USA
1967 3000 MKIII, HBJ8L39031

From Kendall.Freese at aerojet.com  Mon Sep 10 17:09:34 2007
From: Kendall.Freese at aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 16:09:34 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Tidbit
In-Reply-To: <5F2F7FBB39A5485FB0C091165D0B93BC@LeonardPC>
References: <5F2F7FBB39A5485FB0C091165D0B93BC@LeonardPC>
Message-ID: <1B3BD9CCDD89084C9CC405C3258017F501ED3F1B@SACMAIL1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

 That would be around the time Sardi was selling his 100S to go slower
with a 100-6. He didn't keep it too long!
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+ken.freese=aerojet.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ken.freese=aerojet.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Leonard Hartnett
Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 3:42 PM
To: Healey Mail List
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Tidbit

Always on the lookout for obscure mention of Healeys, the following
appeared in the August 27, 2007, issue of AutoWeek magazine. The article
notes the 50 year anniversary of the Madison Avenue Sports Car Driving
and Chowder Society
(Chowderheads) at Sardi's restaurant in Manhattan. According to the
article, Sardi, a sports-car racer, volunteered a luncheon venue in 1957
for a group of car aficioados who had been meeting at Le Chanteclair,
the New York restaurant owned by French racing great Rene Dreyfus when
the group got too large to be accomodated.

.  People quoted are: Ernst Lieb, president and CEO of Mercedes Benz USA
and Bruce Wennerstrom, co-chair of the organization and the Greenwhich
Concours d'Elegance.

".During the anniversary gathering, Lieb reprised 50 years of Mercedes'
U.S.
history, while Wennerstrom reviewed 50 years of hilarious camaraderie.
Sardi's helmet and a portrait of his Healey were close at hand.".

(The Other) Len
Vacaville,  California,  USA
1967 3000 MKIII, HBJ8L39031
_______________________________________________
ken.freese at aerojet.com

From varley at cosmos.net.au  Mon Sep 10 17:55:15 2007
From: varley at cosmos.net.au (Larry Varley)
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 09:55:15 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 rear shroud
Message-ID: <46E5D963.1000505@cosmos.net.au>

Hi
A friend is looking for a good to repairable rear shroud for a BJ8 phase 
3 ( twin light ) that could be shipped to Australia. Also has anyone had 
experience with the new rear shrouds available from SC parts?
Larry Varley
Austin Healey 100 restoration site
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Mon Sep 10 17:47:23 2007
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 19:47:23 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator question
References: <a06200703c30afd9b25fb@[192.168.0.100]>
Message-ID: <03c501c7f404$ef5378a0$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>

Steve,

I've just been studying an assembly here in the shop. For the cam to work 
the triggers and yet still be hitting the control lever, either the cam 
plate surface is badly bent or more likely one or more of the 4 little tabs 
on the base of the short stator tube end flange that are peened over during 
factory assembly may have come loose enough, or broken to allow the whole 
sandwiched plate assembly to go out of alignment.
Normally the crest of the cam plate would have about 3/32" clearance around 
the entire diameter, but positively contact and push the triggers to cause a 
cancel.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 10:05 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trafficator question


> Hi Rich, Ed, and anyone who's interested: I have looked at the
> pictures on Ed's website.
>
> I was afraid that my email may be misunderstood........the triggers
> are not installed backwards, they work just fine- it's that the metal
> piece which rotates and trips them seems too tight to the bakelite
> body, and after cancelling the trigger, snags the control arm and
> moves it as well. As I mentioned in my previous email, I'm concerned
> that if I bend it away it will not have enough interference to move
> the triggers.
>
> Stephen, BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Tue Sep 11 04:16:54 2007
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 06:16:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] reflector brake light - NIFTY UPGRADE
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0709090628u2ba5acdeo40361ceb44bcfc97@mail.gmail.com>
References: <ff59076c0709090628u2ba5acdeo40361ceb44bcfc97@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <46E66B16.9070509@earthlink.net>

Alan,

You might try the version of Goof Off that is safe for plastics.

Bob

Alan Seigrist wrote:

>> Just one question - one of the reflectors has silver paint on it.  Any
>> recommendation for getting rid of the liver paint so the light will be
>> brighter?  Will Tamaya hobby thinner work?

From lpowell at precisionsportscar.com  Tue Sep 11 08:16:00 2007
From: lpowell at precisionsportscar.com (Lindsay)
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 10:16:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] XK 150 S Le Mans
Message-ID: <001701c7f47e$4804cfc0$6501a8c0@MainOffice>

Hello list

 

Non Healey question

Looking for the proper location for the w/shield washer bottle on the XK
150S Le Mans car

Any help , greatly appreciated

 

FYI

 

AHX12 lost another axle shaft yesterday at Targa

Had to air ship one out to Mike in Gander last nite

 

Lindsay  

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Sep 11 09:59:34 2007
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 08:59:34 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Scuttle seal rivets
In-Reply-To: <46D8CB23.1040300@bigpond.com>
References: <46D8CB23.1040300@bigpond.com>
Message-ID: <55FE3CE4-FD5C-4120-B4AB-24967A2AC951@sbcglobal.net>

Yes we have these available.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Aug 31, 2007, at 7:14 PM, Bill Shipton wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> Can anyone advise where I can get the correct type of rivets for the
> scuttle seals? I believe these are a split rivet?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Bill.
> _______________________________________________
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From robert.w.johnson at charter.net  Tue Sep 11 10:35:12 2007
From: robert.w.johnson at charter.net (Bob Johnson)
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 12:35:12 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey ?
Message-ID: <004301c7f491$ba119c20$021919ac@valued28addca9>

On Mystery!, (the Inspector Lynley series) what kind of car does Inspector
Lynley drive?

Bob Johnson
BJ8

From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Tue Sep 11 11:22:41 2007
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 13:22:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey ?
Message-ID: <a06200707c30c7ee7daf8@[192.168.0.100]>

Hi Bob,

That's a Bristol.....not sure of the model number, but hardly ever 
seen in North America.
In the older episodes he drove a Jenson Interceptor.

Stephen,
BJ8

From awgertoo at aol.com  Tue Sep 11 11:38:51 2007
From: awgertoo at aol.com (awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 13:38:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Targa Newfoundland Healeys
Message-ID: <8C9C2B1C082F928-F70-7866@MBLK-M24.sysops.aol.com>

I am in Gander, Newfoundland with Michael Salter serving as navigator in his 100 for the Targa Newfoundland.? Yesterday was not an auspicious day for the Healey marque:?

1.? Ivan and Ian Shelton,?a father/son team in another 100 went off during an early Targa stage and the car is probably a total, though neither of them was injured.?They are out.

2.? Michael and I completed yesterday's?runs (with one off incident?involving no real damage to the car) but just before we reached Gander for the day's finish the right axle broke and we limped in.? A replacement axle that was to have arrived this morning was "mishandled" at the Toronto airport and is now expected 4:00AM tomorrow.??The car is up on jackstands and awaits the part so that we can resume tomorrow.

More notes as computer access allows.

Best--Michael Oritt


________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From pdzwig at summaventures.com  Tue Sep 11 14:01:57 2007
From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig)
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 21:01:57 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey ?
In-Reply-To: <a06200707c30c7ee7daf8@[192.168.0.100]>
References: <a06200707c30c7ee7daf8@[192.168.0.100]>
Message-ID: <46E6F435.20207@summaventures.com>

It's a long time since I saw Inspector Linley, but it's definitely a 400 -
actually a 410. See:

http://www.bbc.co.uk/drama/lynley/characters/inspectorlynley_person_page.shtml

Bristols are rare even over here. They were a spin off from the old Bristol
Aircraft Company and have only ever made in small quantities and mostly to
order. The earlier models were based on BMW designs obtained as "spoils of war",
later cars received larger lumps of iron mostly Chrysler I seem to recall.

They were once described as "gentlemen's expresses", which sums up the majority
of the production wonderfully

Home page:

http://www.bristolcars.co.uk/index2.htm

To see what a modern British sports car of the old mould might be like today see:

http://www.bristolcars.co.uk/FighterT.htm

and scroll down.

Don't miss:

http://www.bristolcars.co.uk/BlenheimSpeedster.htm

I must say I've always had a longing for a Bristol!

Peter Dzwig

Stephen Hutchings wrote:
> Hi Bob,
> 
> That's a Bristol.....not sure of the model number, but hardly ever 
> seen in North America.
> In the older episodes he drove a Jenson Interceptor.
> 
> Stephen,
> BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> pdzwig at summaventures.com 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From linwoodrose at mac.com  Tue Sep 11 16:27:37 2007
From: linwoodrose at mac.com (linwood rose)
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 18:27:37 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Motor Install
Message-ID: <85DCA788-23FE-4427-97AE-D2B0C9ED7077@mac.com>

Well, in my 5 year restoration project I have certainly asked many  
questions, but it strikes me that in the last few weeks I have asked  
more questions than ever about very disparate subjects. Here is my  
enquiry for the night:

If one installs the motor without the gearbox, and tightens down the  
bolts on the motor mounts, do they sufficiently support the weight of  
the motor so that the car can be rolled around in the garage/ 
workshop? Or, must one have a jack or other form of support under the  
rear of the motor at all times to prevent potential twisting of the  
motor mounts?

Also, I have my 2 original dowel bolts that go through the bell  
housing into the backplate at 11:00 and 5:00 o'clock. Is the smooth  
shank part of the bolt a tight fit into the backplate - as in tapping  
with a light hammer required, or do they travel through without much  
friction?

Thanks as always for assistance. Obviously, I am getting ready to  
install the completely rebuilt motor which is a great feeling!!

Lin
1960 BT7 in restoration
1959 Bugeye 

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Sep 11 16:46:41 2007
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 15:46:41 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Motor Install
In-Reply-To: <85DCA788-23FE-4427-97AE-D2B0C9ED7077@mac.com>
References: <85DCA788-23FE-4427-97AE-D2B0C9ED7077@mac.com>
Message-ID: <3DEF529D-0832-429C-974B-8D7EA43DBA14@sbcglobal.net>

You will need to support the rear of the engine. There are a couple  
of ways you can do that.
	1. If you have a spare input shaft you can put it into the rear of  
the crankshaft and then a bar across the frame and let the motor down.
	2. cut a piece of 2x4 about 4" long and you can put it against the  
rear of the head and the lower part of the firewall and that will  
support the engine from going down to far.

The bellhousing bolts do not come in from the engine side the all  
come in from the bellhousing and then thru the engine plate. And yes  
the dowl bolts are a snug fit.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Sep 11, 2007, at 3:27 PM, linwood rose wrote:

> Well, in my 5 year restoration project I have certainly asked many
> questions, but it strikes me that in the last few weeks I have asked
> more questions than ever about very disparate subjects. Here is my
> enquiry for the night:
>
> If one installs the motor without the gearbox, and tightens down the
> bolts on the motor mounts, do they sufficiently support the weight of
> the motor so that the car can be rolled around in the garage/
> workshop? Or, must one have a jack or other form of support under the
> rear of the motor at all times to prevent potential twisting of the
> motor mounts?
>
> Also, I have my 2 original dowel bolts that go through the bell
> housing into the backplate at 11:00 and 5:00 o'clock. Is the smooth
> shank part of the bolt a tight fit into the backplate - as in tapping
> with a light hammer required, or do they travel through without much
> friction?
>
> Thanks as always for assistance. Obviously, I am getting ready to
> install the completely rebuilt motor which is a great feeling!!
>
> Lin
> 1960 BT7 in restoration
> 1959 Bugeye
> _______________________________________________
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Sep 11 16:46:43 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 06:46:43 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Motor Install
In-Reply-To: <85DCA788-23FE-4427-97AE-D2B0C9ED7077@mac.com>
References: <85DCA788-23FE-4427-97AE-D2B0C9ED7077@mac.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709111546i28322a3fn40f7dda4bd5d7f39@mail.gmail.com>

Lin -

You shouldn't really roll the car around with only the engine in - it
needs to be supported in the back because of the weight.  I have heard
that some people have inserted a modified 2x4 between the rocker cover
and the firewall to carry the weight, maybe with this set up you can
roll the car around but I wouldn't recommend it.

The dowel bolt is a very tight fit but should go in the hole like a
normal bolt - no hammering should be necessary.

Alan



On 9/12/07, linwood rose <linwoodrose at mac.com> wrote:
> Well, in my 5 year restoration project I have certainly asked many
> questions, but it strikes me that in the last few weeks I have asked
> more questions than ever about very disparate subjects. Here is my
> enquiry for the night:
>
> If one installs the motor without the gearbox, and tightens down the
> bolts on the motor mounts, do they sufficiently support the weight of
> the motor so that the car can be rolled around in the garage/
> workshop? Or, must one have a jack or other form of support under the
> rear of the motor at all times to prevent potential twisting of the
> motor mounts?
>
> Also, I have my 2 original dowel bolts that go through the bell
> housing into the backplate at 11:00 and 5:00 o'clock. Is the smooth
> shank part of the bolt a tight fit into the backplate - as in tapping
> with a light hammer required, or do they travel through without much
> friction?
>
> Thanks as always for assistance. Obviously, I am getting ready to
> install the completely rebuilt motor which is a great feeling!!
>
> Lin
> 1960 BT7 in restoration
> 1959 Bugeye
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au  Tue Sep 11 17:14:08 2007
From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick)
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 09:14:08 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Motor Install
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0709111546i28322a3fn40f7dda4bd5d7f39@mail.gmail.com>
References: <85DCA788-23FE-4427-97AE-D2B0C9ED7077@mac.com>
	<ff59076c0709111546i28322a3fn40f7dda4bd5d7f39@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C76C7411@itfexch5.central.det.win>

G'day Lin

Timber is amazing stuff. Hardwood is best.

What I have done in the past is to cut a piece long enough to fit across
the main chassis rails and sits in between the backing plate and the
rear of the engine. Then you can push the car around to your heart's
content.

There is a disclaimer to this as I should say that this works perfectly
well if you have a BN3/1 but may not with a production car.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+patrick.quinn=det.nsw.edu.au at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+patrick.quinn=det.nsw.edu.au at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Alan Seigrist
Sent: Wednesday, 12 September 2007 8:47 AM
To: linwood rose; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Motor Install

Lin -

You shouldn't really roll the car around with only the engine in - it
needs to be supported in the back because of the weight.  I have heard
that some people have inserted a modified 2x4 between the rocker cover
and the firewall to carry the weight, maybe with this set up you can
roll the car around but I wouldn't recommend it.

The dowel bolt is a very tight fit but should go in the hole like a
normal bolt - no hammering should be necessary.

Alan



On 9/12/07, linwood rose <linwoodrose at mac.com> wrote:
> Well, in my 5 year restoration project I have certainly asked many
> questions, but it strikes me that in the last few weeks I have asked
> more questions than ever about very disparate subjects. Here is my
> enquiry for the night:
>
> If one installs the motor without the gearbox, and tightens down the
> bolts on the motor mounts, do they sufficiently support the weight of
> the motor so that the car can be rolled around in the garage/
> workshop? Or, must one have a jack or other form of support under the
> rear of the motor at all times to prevent potential twisting of the
> motor mounts?
>
> Also, I have my 2 original dowel bolts that go through the bell
> housing into the backplate at 11:00 and 5:00 o'clock. Is the smooth
> shank part of the bolt a tight fit into the backplate - as in tapping
> with a light hammer required, or do they travel through without much
> friction?
>
> Thanks as always for assistance. Obviously, I am getting ready to
> install the completely rebuilt motor which is a great feeling!!
>
> Lin
> 1960 BT7 in restoration
> 1959 Bugeye

--
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8
_______________________________________________
patrick.quinn at det.nsw.edu.au

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************

From BlkBt7 at aol.com  Tue Sep 11 17:24:57 2007
From: BlkBt7 at aol.com (Bob Brown)
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 18:24:57 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Mount
Message-ID: <46E723C9.309@aol.com>

Trying install the wiper motor in a BJ8, how does one get the rubber
pieces into those little holes in the body? I gave up the other day
and assigned the task to my wife who is more patient and can do some of
the little things, but last night she gave up also.
Bob
BJ8 going together slooowly

From linwoodrose at mac.com  Tue Sep 11 17:51:42 2007
From: linwoodrose at mac.com (linwood rose)
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 19:51:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Motor Install
Message-ID: <8037C751-ED51-4E70-8AB7-14DD4C0A33E4@mac.com>

Thanks to all who responded on supporting the rear of the engine. I  
will definitely follow the advice. Thanks, too for the info on the  
dowel bolts.

Lin
1960 BT7 in restoration
1959 Bugeye

From linwoodrose at mac.com  Tue Sep 11 17:53:16 2007
From: linwoodrose at mac.com (linwood rose)
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 19:53:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Mount
In-Reply-To: <46E723C9.309@aol.com>
References: <46E723C9.309@aol.com>
Message-ID: <66E03F8D-F86E-4B23-9836-26858368E0CC@mac.com>

Bob,
I was equally frustrated until I used a little Dawn dishwashing soap.  
Then they went in without a problem.

Lin
1960 BT7 in restoration
1959 Bugeye


On Sep 11, 2007, at 7:24 PM, Bob Brown wrote:

> Trying install the wiper motor in a BJ8, how does one get the rubber
> pieces into those little holes in the body? I gave up the other day
> and assigned the task to my wife who is more patient and can do  
> some of
> the little things, but last night she gave up also.
> Bob
> BJ8 going together slooowly
> _______________________________________________
> linwoodrose at mac.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From awgertoo at aol.com  Tue Sep 11 18:02:06 2007
From: awgertoo at aol.com (awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 20:02:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Targa Newfoundland--update
Message-ID: <8C9C2E74AB48C49-A18-A96A@MBLK-M25.sysops.aol.com>

Shortly after my post this afternoon we were notified that the new halfshaft was in fact arriving at the Gander airport in about 30 minutes.? When we installed it the flange would not pull up tight to the face of the hub and on close examination it became clear that the axle housing itself was bent on both ends--no doubt the reason for the break. In fact there were some wear marks on the left side axle as well where it was rubbing against the bearing housing.

In any case we removed the axle housing from the car and brought it to a nearby service station where--as I write--several locals are attempting to straighten it with the judicious use  of a four-post lift with a 250 Ford loaded on top of it for weight along with a smoke wrench.? 

I'm anticipating that it will all go back together and that we will be able to drive tomorrow so I am going back to the hotel to begin to work on the day's route books. 

Best--Michael Oritt


________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au  Tue Sep 11 18:09:12 2007
From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick)
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 10:09:12 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Targa Newfoundland--update
In-Reply-To: <8C9C2E74AB48C49-A18-A96A@MBLK-M25.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8C9C2E74AB48C49-A18-A96A@MBLK-M25.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C76C7417@itfexch5.central.det.win>

G'day

Please excuse my antipodean dumbness.

I like the term "smoke wrench". Is it a euphemism for a big hammer?

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+patrick.quinn=det.nsw.edu.au at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+patrick.quinn=det.nsw.edu.au at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of awgertoo at aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, 12 September 2007 10:02 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net; caahc at yahoogroups.com; Orbittor at aol.com
Subject: [Healeys] Targa Newfoundland--update

Shortly after my post this afternoon we were notified that the new
halfshaft was in fact arriving at the Gander airport in about 30
minutes.? When we installed it the flange would not pull up tight to the
face of the hub and on close examination it became clear that the axle
housing itself was bent on both ends--no doubt the reason for the break.
In fact there were some wear marks on the left side axle as well where
it was rubbing against the bearing housing.

In any case we removed the axle housing from the car and brought it to a
nearby service station where--as I write--several locals are attempting
to straighten it with the judicious use  of a four-post lift with a 250
Ford loaded on top of it for weight along with a smoke wrench.?

I'm anticipating that it will all go back together and that we will be
able to drive tomorrow so I am going back to the hotel to begin to work
on the day's route books.

Best--Michael Oritt

**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************

From robert.w.johnson at charter.net  Tue Sep 11 18:44:33 2007
From: robert.w.johnson at charter.net (Bob Johnson)
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 20:44:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey ?
References: <a06200707c30c7ee7daf8@[192.168.0.100]>
	<46E6F435.20207@summaventures.com>
Message-ID: <001a01c7f4d6$16ab4410$021919ac@valued28addca9>

Thanks,

I thought the car had a very heavy Nash look to it, but Bristol is even 
better. I remember AC Bristols at VIR when I was much, much younger. Then 
came the Cobra which I could not tell much difference between except the 
sound.

Bob Johnson
BJ8 

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Tue Sep 11 19:42:52 2007
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 21:42:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Targa Newfoundland--update
In-Reply-To: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C76C7417@itfexch5.central.det.win>
References: <8C9C2E74AB48C49-A18-A96A@MBLK-M25.sysops.aol.com>
	<3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C76C7417@itfexch5.central.det.win>
Message-ID: <46E7441C.8030207@earthlink.net>

Patrick,

Oxy-acetylene torch

Bob

Quinn, Patrick wrote:
> G'day
> 
> Please excuse my antipodean dumbness.
> 
> I like the term "smoke wrench". Is it a euphemism for a big hammer?
> 
> Hoo Roo
> 
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia

From mkgoodman at worldnet.att.net  Tue Sep 11 19:47:41 2007
From: mkgoodman at worldnet.att.net (Mark Goodman)
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 21:47:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Harvard Reading Test
Message-ID: <20070912014831.E282F187ACE@autox.team.net>

Subject: Harvard Reading Test

	
	
	This was developed as an age test by an R&D department at Harvard
	University . Take your time and see if you can read each line aloud
	without a mistake. The average person over 40 years of age can't do
	it.
	
	1. This is this cat
	
	2. This is is cat
	
	3. This is how cat
	
	4. This is to cat
	
	5. This is keep cat
	
	6. This is an cat
	
	7. This is old cat
	
	8. This is fart cat
	
	9. This is busy cat
	
	10. This is for cat
	
	11. This is forty cat
	
	12. This is seconds cat
	
	
	
	Now go back and read the third word in each line from the
	
	top down and I betcha you can't resist passing this on.

From schauss at worldnet.att.net  Tue Sep 11 20:34:25 2007
From: schauss at worldnet.att.net (Peter Schauss)
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 22:34:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Motor Install
In-Reply-To: <85DCA788-23FE-4427-97AE-D2B0C9ED7077@mac.com>
Message-ID: <20070912023458.8574B187B04@autox.team.net>

Lin,

If you have the gearbox ready to install, there is no reason not to bolt it
to the engine and install both at the same time.  If you have an engine
crane and a device for tilting the engine you can do it by yourself.  It is
considerably easier to mate the engine to the gearbox when both are out of
the car.

Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB

> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+schauss=worldnet.att.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+schauss=worldnet.att.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf
> Of linwood rose
> Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 6:28 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Motor Install
> 
> Well, in my 5 year restoration project I have certainly asked many
> questions, but it strikes me that in the last few weeks I have asked
> more questions than ever about very disparate subjects. Here is my
> enquiry for the night:
> 
> If one installs the motor without the gearbox, and tightens down the
> bolts on the motor mounts, do they sufficiently support the weight of
> the motor so that the car can be rolled around in the garage/
> workshop? Or, must one have a jack or other form of support under the
> rear of the motor at all times to prevent potential twisting of the
> motor mounts?
> 
> Also, I have my 2 original dowel bolts that go through the bell
> housing into the backplate at 11:00 and 5:00 o'clock. Is the smooth
> shank part of the bolt a tight fit into the backplate - as in tapping
> with a light hammer required, or do they travel through without much
> friction?
> 
> Thanks as always for assistance. Obviously, I am getting ready to
> install the completely rebuilt motor which is a great feeling!!
> 
> Lin
> 1960 BT7 in restoration
> 1959 Bugeye

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Sep 11 20:57:52 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 10:57:52 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey ?
In-Reply-To: <46E6F435.20207@summaventures.com>
References: <a06200707c30c7ee7daf8@192.168.0.100>
	<46E6F435.20207@summaventures.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709111957r7d0d1359y8c44e21a9cf71f3f@mail.gmail.com>

Bollocks!!  This is the real Bristol Blenheim in action:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MKk0c9kWjqE

Hip Hip!

Alan

P.S. Bristol does make wonderful cars.


On 9/12/07, Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com> wrote:
>
> It's a long time since I saw Inspector Linley, but it's definitely a 400 -
> actually a 410. See:
>
>
> http://www.bbc.co.uk/drama/lynley/characters/inspectorlynley_person_page.shtml
>
> Bristols are rare even over here. They were a spin off from the old
> Bristol
> Aircraft Company and have only ever made in small quantities and mostly to
> order. The earlier models were based on BMW designs obtained as "spoils of
> war",
> later cars received larger lumps of iron mostly Chrysler I seem to recall.
>
> They were once described as "gentlemen's expresses", which sums up the
> majority
> of the production wonderfully
>
> Home page:
>
> http://www.bristolcars.co.uk/index2.htm
>
> To see what a modern British sports car of the old mould might be like
> today see:
>
> http://www.bristolcars.co.uk/FighterT.htm
>
> and scroll down.
>
> Don't miss:
>
> http://www.bristolcars.co.uk/BlenheimSpeedster.htm
>
> I must say I've always had a longing for a Bristol!
>
> Peter Dzwig

From Go2ghill at aol.com  Tue Sep 11 21:43:45 2007
From: Go2ghill at aol.com (Go2ghill at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 23:43:45 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] engine run on
Message-ID: <c47.1f415f81.3418ba71@aol.com>

I'm experiencing engine run on and wondered what I might do to correct it.
The timing and carbs have been tuned and the car is running good.
Greg Hill
67 BJ8 
 



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au  Tue Sep 11 21:46:58 2007
From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick)
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 13:46:58 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] engine run on
In-Reply-To: <c47.1f415f81.3418ba71@aol.com>
References: <c47.1f415f81.3418ba71@aol.com>
Message-ID: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C76C742A@itfexch5.central.det.win>

G'day

Put it into 4th and let the clutch out.

That's about it.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+patrick.quinn=det.nsw.edu.au at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+patrick.quinn=det.nsw.edu.au at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Go2ghill at aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, 12 September 2007 1:44 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] engine run on

I'm experiencing engine run on and wondered what I might do to correct
it.
The timing and carbs have been tuned and the car is running good.
Greg Hill
67 BJ8

**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************

From Go2ghill at aol.com  Tue Sep 11 22:01:55 2007
From: Go2ghill at aol.com (Go2ghill at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 00:01:55 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] engine run on
Message-ID: <d11.12ef9565.3418beb3@aol.com>

That is a good way to stop it, but I wondered how I could correct the problem?



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Tue Sep 11 22:16:30 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 23:16:30 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] engine run on
References: <d11.12ef9565.3418beb3@aol.com>
Message-ID: <003001c7f4f3$b3560da0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>

Setting your idle speed lower can help, but if it gets to the point where it 
doesn't idle smoothly or occasionly stalls and you still have the 
problem....kill it with the clutch.

Some will say a properly set up car in good order won't do this, others have 
spent many many many hours searching for an answer, and not finding one, 
have just decided to kill it with the clutch.

My freshly rebuilt engine is running on worse than it did before, runs cool, 
mixture is good, etc. So I routinely follow Patrick's advice, key is to get 
so smooth at it that no one notices.

Regards,

Greg Lemon
54 BN1 

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Sep 11 23:27:03 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 00:27:03 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] engine run on
In-Reply-To: <d11.12ef9565.3418beb3@aol.com>
References: <d11.12ef9565.3418beb3@aol.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709112227u25aebddds1f13924c63787d35@mail.gmail.com>

Try bardahl's instead o lead gold - it has lead additive and very good
quality octane boost


On 9/12/07, Go2ghill at aol.com <Go2ghill at aol.com> wrote:
> That is a good way to stop it, but I wondered how I could correct the
> problem?
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From pdzwig at summaventures.com  Wed Sep 12 02:48:01 2007
From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig)
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 09:48:01 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey ?
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0709111957r7d0d1359y8c44e21a9cf71f3f@mail.gmail.com>
References: <a06200707c30c7ee7daf8@192.168.0.100>	
	<46E6F435.20207@summaventures.com>
	<ff59076c0709111957r7d0d1359y8c44e21a9cf71f3f@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <46E7A7C1.5000805@summaventures.com>

I too have always had a fascination - it's the only way that I can describe it
with this, the Beaufort and the Beaufighter.

Beaufort:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qvia3TzeObE

Beaufighter:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vsUdbzQCm_Y

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EkdFVa-wC-E&mode=related&search=


But then don't forget that it IS the same company...so what is real in this
context ;-)

Peter

Alan Seigrist wrote:
> Bollocks!!  This is the real Bristol Blenheim in action:
>  
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MKk0c9kWjqE
>  
> Hip Hip!
>  
> Alan
>  
> P.S. Bristol does make wonderful cars.
> 
>  
> On 9/12/07, *Peter Dzwig* <pdzwig at summaventures.com
> <mailto:pdzwig at summaventures.com>> wrote:
> 
>     It's a long time since I saw Inspector Linley, but it's definitely a
>     400 -
>     actually a 410. See:
> 
>     http://www.bbc.co.uk/drama/lynley/characters/inspectorlynley_person_page.shtml
> 
>     Bristols are rare even over here. They were a spin off from the old
>     Bristol
>     Aircraft Company and have only ever made in small quantities and
>     mostly to
>     order. The earlier models were based on BMW designs obtained as
>     "spoils of war",
>     later cars received larger lumps of iron mostly Chrysler I seem to
>     recall.
> 
>     They were once described as "gentlemen's expresses", which sums up
>     the majority
>     of the production wonderfully
> 
>     Home page:
> 
>     http://www.bristolcars.co.uk/index2.htm
>     <http://www.bristolcars.co.uk/index2.htm>
> 
>     To see what a modern British sports car of the old mould might be
>     like today see:
> 
>     http://www.bristolcars.co.uk/FighterT.htm
> 
>     and scroll down.
> 
>     Don't miss:
> 
>     http://www.bristolcars.co.uk/BlenheimSpeedster.htm
> 
>     I must say I've always had a longing for a Bristol!
> 
>     Peter Dzwig

From linwoodrose at mac.com  Wed Sep 12 05:06:23 2007
From: linwoodrose at mac.com (linwood rose)
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 07:06:23 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Motor Install
In-Reply-To: <200709120234.l8C2YfCn026015@mac.com>
References: <200709120234.l8C2YfCn026015@mac.com>
Message-ID: <BA5C88BA-3122-425C-84B8-59ABED0672BD@mac.com>

Peter, and to all who suggested that I install the motor with the  
transmission:

I have installed the motor with the tranny before and I agree that  
while it is a little more nerve racking as it goes in, it really is  
easier than attaching the gearbox after the fact. However, I am using  
a Smitty Toyota gearbox conversion and I want to make sure that my  
slave cylinder/fork is lined up and working properly before I put  
everything in the car. Tracy Drummond suggested attaching the bell  
housing to the engine so that you can easily observe the working  
mechanism and it seems to me that it is a precaution that will save  
time later if things aren't lined up properly.

Again, thanks for all the helpful thoughts. They are appreciated.

Lin
1960 BT7 in restoration
1959 Bugeye

From bighealey at charter.net  Wed Sep 12 06:15:29 2007
From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond)
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 05:15:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Motor Install
In-Reply-To: <BA5C88BA-3122-425C-84B8-59ABED0672BD@mac.com>
Message-ID: <003b01c7f536$9f3e0730$1002a8c0@TRACY>

Lin,

Give me a ring and I can talk you through the fitment process and what to do
when it does not work.

Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !
President AHCUSA              www.healey.org
VP/Events Director GGAHC  www.goldengatehealeys.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+bighealey=charter.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+bighealey=charter.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
linwood rose
Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 4:06 AM
To: Peter Schauss
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Motor Install

Peter, and to all who suggested that I install the motor with the
transmission:

I have installed the motor with the tranny before and I agree that
while it is a little more nerve racking as it goes in, it really is
easier than attaching the gearbox after the fact. However, I am using
a Smitty Toyota gearbox conversion and I want to make sure that my
slave cylinder/fork is lined up and working properly before I put
everything in the car. Tracy Drummond suggested attaching the bell
housing to the engine so that you can easily observe the working
mechanism and it seems to me that it is a precaution that will save
time later if things aren't lined up properly.

Again, thanks for all the helpful thoughts. They are appreciated.

Lin
1960 BT7 in restoration
1959 Bugeye
_______________________________________________
bighealey at charter.net

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From awgertoo at aol.com  Wed Sep 12 09:32:45 2007
From: awgertoo at aol.com (awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 11:32:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Targa Newfoundland ("NF") update--Axle stretching
Message-ID: <8C9C3694D42B257-B08-239C@webmail-me10.sysops.aol.com>

Apparently the elves were able to successfully apply weight and heat to the correct places on the axle housing last night as when everything went together this morning?the faces mated perfectly.? HOWEVER (there is always a forever isn't there?) the new axle was just a bit too short by about 1/2" to engage the inner gears of the limited-slip differential.? So this morning we took the axle over to the City of Gander's?machine shop?where they pressed the axle 1/2" out of the hub to make it longer and rewelded?it good as new.?Axle stretching?can be done!? The differential is?quieter than it was when we started out and the knibbling pin also seems to be in good shape so no worries there.?

We got on the road around 10:30 this morning and are now in Clarenville about to sit down to a nice warm lunch after a cold and wet ride down--a perfect day for motoring in a Healey.? We plan to rejoin the competition tomorrow.

L'Shana Tova--Michael Oritt
________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From britishcars at shaw.ca  Wed Sep 12 14:52:47 2007
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 13:52:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
Message-ID: <003001c7f57e$e19ebeb0$0e02a8c0@ecarecenters.net>

For those of you interested, MSN had some pictures of the Newfoundland rally
today accompanied by some classic wrecks including an AH100.

 

It claims that it was the Salter/Orrit car which I think may be incorrect as
their car was a Black and White Hardtop.

 

Please the link below.

 

http://en.autos.sympatico.msn.ca/Targa/article.aspx?cp-documentid=5417141

 

Cheers

Paul Grehan

67 BJ8

68 TR250

34 MGPA

48 WIllys Flatfender

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Sep 12 15:41:05 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 16:41:05 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
References: <003001c7f57e$e19ebeb0$0e02a8c0@ecarecenters.net>
Message-ID: <00fb01c7f585$a07c61b0$6601a8c0@actualshop>

<<Black and White>>

Says FIRST incorrect part, Paul!!  The article says "100" for second incorrect
part.

Third would be Michael's narrative!!  Me thinks they wouldn't be bothering to
fix the rear axle housing (and axle) if car was totaled!!!  LOL

Ed

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Wed Sep 12 16:44:12 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 17:44:12 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Restoring Bakelite
Message-ID: <001401c7f58e$710b0fe0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>

The subject of restoring bakelite such as our steering hubs and knobs on 
some of our cars comes up from time to time, I got this from the MG section 
of the British Car Forum, haven't tried it, but a couple of guys said it 
works very well,  if you are trying to get your bakelite to look a little 
better may be worth a try.

http://www.pensburymanor.com/PMBHRPPNo9.html

Also if any listers have had experience with it good or bad feel free to 
weigh in on the subject.

Greg Lemon
54 BN1 

From bluechipracing at snet.net  Wed Sep 12 17:58:07 2007
From: bluechipracing at snet.net (bluechip)
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 19:58:07 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Targa Newfoundland
References: <003001c7f57e$e19ebeb0$0e02a8c0@ecarecenters.net>
	<00fb01c7f585$a07c61b0$6601a8c0@actualshop>
Message-ID: <003801c7f598$c51af1e0$1f9bfea9@dell>

The blue Healey that crashed in the Targa Newfoundland is a 100 with a 
4-seat rear clip from a 6 cyl. It was running in the GT class.  Although the 
car appears severely damaged, Driver Ivan Shelton and Co-Driver Ean Shelton, 
both Canadians, are reported to be unhurt.

The Salter / Oritt Healey is running in the Targa class.

Jim Smith





----- Original Message ----- 
From: <shop at justbrits.com>
To: "'Healey List'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 5:41 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] (no subject)


> <<Black and White>>
>
> Says FIRST incorrect part, Paul!!  The article says "100" for second 
> incorrect
> part.
>
> Third would be Michael's narrative!!  Me thinks they wouldn't be bothering 
> to
> fix the rear axle housing (and axle) if car was totaled!!!  LOL
>
> Ed
> _______________________________________________
> bluechipracing at snet.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

From dracmarine at aol.com  Wed Sep 12 18:22:53 2007
From: dracmarine at aol.com (dracmarine at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 20:22:53 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Restoring Bakelite
In-Reply-To: <001401c7f58e$710b0fe0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
References: <001401c7f58e$710b0fe0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
Message-ID: <8C9C3B35C4D5DA3-950-2ACD@MBLK-M25.sysops.aol.com>

There was a person at Pebble Beach Concours this year in the first tent that you enter to the show?who repaired Healey steering wheels among others.? I recall he said something like $900.? I have two of them, both cracked, so I went and bought a Tourist wood wheel from Moss. When I asked about repairing the wheel on my 66 SL Bagoda Benz, he said don't bother, get a new one from Mercedes, around $200.

First time I ever heard of a German car anything being cheaper than a Brit car...

Richard of KY/CA
BN7 440




-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 3:44 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Restoring Bakelite



The subject of restoring bakelite such as our steering hubs and knobs on 
some of our cars comes up from time to time, I got this from the MG section 
of the British Car Forum, haven't tried it, but a couple of guys said it 
works very well,  if you are trying to get your bakelite to look a little 
better may be worth a try.

http://www.pensburymanor.com/PMBHRPPNo9.html

Also if any listers have had experience with it good or bad feel free to 
weigh in on the subject.

Greg Lemon
54 BN1 
_______________________________________________


________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From serraodan at gmail.com  Wed Sep 12 18:40:31 2007
From: serraodan at gmail.com (Dan Serrao)
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 17:40:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Restoring Bakelite
In-Reply-To: <8C9C3B35C4D5DA3-950-2ACD@MBLK-M25.sysops.aol.com>
References: <001401c7f58e$710b0fe0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
	<8C9C3B35C4D5DA3-950-2ACD@MBLK-M25.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <13f928820709121740i6ff01aa1s6b948e39e5e94741@mail.gmail.com>

Has anyone used this product on steering wheels. It says it is a liquid for
rubber products. Do you fill in the cracks first with an epoxy or
something??

Dan Serrao
1963 BJ7


On 9/12/07, dracmarine at aol.com <dracmarine at aol.com> wrote:
>
> There was a person at Pebble Beach Concours this year in the first tent
> that you enter to the show?who repaired Healey steering wheels among
> others.? I recall he said something like $900.? I have two of them, both
> cracked, so I went and bought a Tourist wood wheel from Moss. When I asked
> about repairing the wheel on my 66 SL Bagoda Benz, he said don't bother, get
> a new one from Mercedes, around $200.
>
> First time I ever heard of a German car anything being cheaper than a Brit
> car...
>
> Richard of KY/CA
> BN7 440
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 3:44 pm
> Subject: [Healeys] Restoring Bakelite
>
>
>
> The subject of restoring bakelite such as our steering hubs and knobs on
> some of our cars comes up from time to time, I got this from the MG
> section
> of the British Car Forum, haven't tried it, but a couple of guys said it
> works very well,  if you are trying to get your bakelite to look a little
> better may be worth a try.
>
> http://www.pensburymanor.com/PMBHRPPNo9.html
>
> Also if any listers have had experience with it good or bad feel free to
> weigh in on the subject.
>
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1
> _______________________________________________
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! -
> http://mail.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> serraodan at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From bj8mk3 at shaw.ca  Wed Sep 12 18:43:08 2007
From: bj8mk3 at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 17:43:08 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Lucas Issue
Message-ID: <004601c7f59f$0e634360$0e02a8c0@ecarecenters.net>

The Prince of Darkness has struck me for the first time in 3 years!

 

About three weeks ago, my 67 BJ8 suddenly lost all electrical power.  I was
in first gear and starting on an uphill slope.  The car  "lurched" a bit
when I let the clutch out and suddenly I was without power.  At that time, I
checked the "on/off" knob in the trunk and the connection at the starter
solenoid but could find no short or loose connection.  All the fuses were
fine and nothing else seemed out of order.

 

I was about to push it onto the side of the driveway when the electrical
started working again for no apparent reason.

 

I was going to write the list but....

 

Today, I was backing the car into a parking stall and Voila...the power dies
again.  Again, a miraculous cure after a few hours!.  

 

Rear "on/off" know is fine, Fuses are fine, connections as starter solenoid
are fine..

 

I am thinking voltage regulator but would like some guidance first.

 

Thanks

Paul 

From alan at andysnet.net  Wed Sep 12 19:44:34 2007
From: alan at andysnet.net (Alan Schultz)
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 20:44:34 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Lucas Issue
In-Reply-To: <004601c7f59f$0e634360$0e02a8c0@ecarecenters.net>
References: <004601c7f59f$0e634360$0e02a8c0@ecarecenters.net>
Message-ID: <46E89602.7040703@andysnet.net>

Could be the black/white wire connected to the coil is grounding out. 
Disconnect it and see if that eliminates the problem.

 PG wrote:
> Rear "on/off" know is fine, Fuses are fine, connections as starter solenoid
> are fine..

From jackson_krall at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 12 19:48:33 2007
From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall)
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 18:48:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Restoring Bakelite
In-Reply-To: <13f928820709121740i6ff01aa1s6b948e39e5e94741@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <78202.32437.qm@web52401.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I've used PC-7 epoxy, which dries grey, to fill
steering wheels. This stuff looks like it might
correctly colour the PC-7.
--- Dan Serrao <serraodan at gmail.com> wrote:

> Has anyone used this product on steering wheels. It
> says it is a liquid for
> rubber products. Do you fill in the cracks first
> with an epoxy or
> something??
> 
> Dan Serrao
> 1963 BJ7
> 
> 
> On 9/12/07, dracmarine at aol.com <dracmarine at aol.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > There was a person at Pebble Beach Concours this
> year in the first tent
> > that you enter to the show?who repaired Healey
> steering wheels among
> > others.? I recall he said something like $900.? I
> have two of them, both
> > cracked, so I went and bought a Tourist wood wheel
> from Moss. When I asked
> > about repairing the wheel on my 66 SL Bagoda Benz,
> he said don't bother, get
> > a new one from Mercedes, around $200.
> >
> > First time I ever heard of a German car anything
> being cheaper than a Brit
> > car...
> >
> > Richard of KY/CA
> > BN7 440
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com>
> > To: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Sent: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 3:44 pm
> > Subject: [Healeys] Restoring Bakelite
> >
> >
> >
> > The subject of restoring bakelite such as our
> steering hubs and knobs on
> > some of our cars comes up from time to time, I got
> this from the MG
> > section
> > of the British Car Forum, haven't tried it, but a
> couple of guys said it
> > works very well,  if you are trying to get your
> bakelite to look a little
> > better may be worth a try.
> >
> > http://www.pensburymanor.com/PMBHRPPNo9.html
> >
> > Also if any listers have had experience with it
> good or bad feel free to
> > weigh in on the subject.
> >
> > Greg Lemon
> > 54 BN1
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________
> > Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check
> out free AOL Mail! -
> > http://mail.aol.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > serraodan at gmail.com
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> _______________________________________________
> jackson_krall at yahoo.com 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Wed Sep 12 20:32:13 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 21:32:13 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Voltage Regulator Issue
Message-ID: <006801c7f5ae$4bc980c0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>

I have been having a charging issue with my BN1, the battery does not stay 
charged, charges OK on a charger.

I have had the generator tested by a shop and it is OK.

I messed with the voltage regulator a little bit, the cut out seems to 
operate a little early (low voltage, low RPMS) but I would not think that 
would affect charging.  I tried to adjust it but turning the adjustment 
screw and it made no difference.

Tested the voltage regulator side, it was allowing a higher than spec 
voltage, I adjusted it down to spec of about 16 volts.

Then I tested at the battery to see if it was getting charge, car off 
battery is about 12.9 volts, at idle 12.8, when I rev it it goes all over 
goes up to around 14 plus volts until about 2000 RPM, then after that it 
drops to slightly over 12, as understand it it should keep going up and 
stabilize at about 14.5??

Anyway any advice from electrical gurus appreciated.

If it is recommended that I get a new regulator I will do that, they are not 
that expensive and when I was much younger I fried pretty much my whole 
electrical system after messing with the voltage regulator, really don't 
want to do that again.

Greg Lemon
54 BN1

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Sep 12 20:35:44 2007
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 19:35:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] (Minor) Healey Sighting
Message-ID: <46E8A200.3020402@comcast.net>

   http://classifieds.idahostatesman.com/
   Note: "Find a Car"
   Note  to  people  reading  the  archive/summary:  this  may be gone or
   changed by the time
   you browse to the page.
   bs
--
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

From kags at shaw.ca  Wed Sep 12 20:39:47 2007
From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna)
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 19:39:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Lucas Issue
References: <004601c7f59f$0e634360$0e02a8c0@ecarecenters.net>
Message-ID: <004401c7f5af$59dee410$fb086c18@computer>

Paul:

In addition to the suggestion from Alan:

Likeliest cause - invisible corrosion on the battery posts / cable 
terminals.  The exact same thing happened to me a few weeks ago - and that 
was with a previously applied coating of dielectric grease.  Cleaning that 
area solved the problem.

The other thing coud be the battery master switch itself - they have been 
known to go intermittent internally.

If you suspect the black / white wire as per Alan's suggestion, disconnect 
it at the switch in the trunk rather than the coil, in case the problem is 
somewhere along it's run in the wiring harness.

But I'd guess the battery posts.  Let us know.

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "PG" <bj8mk3 at shaw.ca>
To: "'Healey List'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 5:43 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Lucas Issue


The Prince of Darkness has struck me for the first time in 3 years!



About three weeks ago, my 67 BJ8 suddenly lost all electrical power.  I was
in first gear and starting on an uphill slope.  The car  "lurched" a bit
when I let the clutch out and suddenly I was without power.  At that time, I
checked the "on/off" knob in the trunk and the connection at the starter
solenoid but could find no short or loose connection.  All the fuses were
fine and nothing else seemed out of order.



I was about to push it onto the side of the driveway when the electrical
started working again for no apparent reason.



I was going to write the list but....



Today, I was backing the car into a parking stall and Voila...the power dies
again.  Again, a miraculous cure after a few hours!.



Rear "on/off" know is fine, Fuses are fine, connections as starter solenoid
are fine..



I am thinking voltage regulator but would like some guidance first.



Thanks

Paul

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Wed Sep 12 21:37:01 2007
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Leonard  Hartnett)
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 20:37:01 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Lucas Issue
In-Reply-To: <004601c7f59f$0e634360$0e02a8c0@ecarecenters.net>
References: <004601c7f59f$0e634360$0e02a8c0@ecarecenters.net>
Message-ID: <CDCE0896813445A5AEFAB5A9E1CD091E@LeonardPC>

Paul:  If not the rotor (least likely) or the black/white wire, or the battery
posts, another option could be the coil.  I had this symptom years ago while
using the Allison/Crane optical ignition system.  Engine would stop but start
again after cooling off some.

How sure are you about the cut-off switch?  Mine gradually became intermittent
before dying completely.  Investigation revealed that the cone shaped spring
that applies pressure to the contacts had gotten hot and flattened out.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville,  California,  USA
1967 3000 MKIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message -----
From: "PG" <bj8mk3 at shaw.ca>
To: "'Healey List'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 5:43 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Lucas Issue


> The Prince of Darkness has struck me for the first time in 3 years!
>
>
>
> About three weeks ago, my 67 BJ8 suddenly lost all electrical power.  I was
> in first gear and starting on an uphill slope.  The car  "lurched" a bit
> when I let the clutch out and suddenly I was without power.  At that time,
I
> checked the "on/off" knob in the trunk and the connection at the starter
> solenoid but could find no short or loose connection.  All the fuses were
> fine and nothing else seemed out of order.
>
>
>
> I was about to push it onto the side of the driveway when the electrical
> started working again for no apparent reason.
>
>
>
> I was going to write the list but....
>
>
>
> Today, I was backing the car into a parking stall and Voila...the power
dies
> again.  Again, a miraculous cure after a few hours!.
>
>
>
> Rear "on/off" know is fine, Fuses are fine, connections as starter solenoid
> are fine..
>
>
>
> I am thinking voltage regulator but would like some guidance first.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Paul

From ecsaustralia at bigpond.com  Wed Sep 12 23:39:20 2007
From: ecsaustralia at bigpond.com (Bill Shipton)
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 22:39:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN6 top frame to windscreen clamps
Message-ID: <46E8CD08.105@bigpond.com>

Hi all,

Can anyone recommend where I can get some good quality top frame to 
windscreen clamps for my BN6? I bought some through a small reseller, 
who got them from a large well known supplier, but they were rubbish- 
brand new and the pins were already falling out and the chrome was 
flaking off! I returned them and the reseller said they could replace 
them, but that I shouldn't be surprised if the replacements weren't much 
better.....

I'm in Vancouver but am happy to buy from anywhere that sells a good 
quality item. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!


Thanks


Bill.

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Sep 13 00:16:58 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 14:16:58 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Voltage Regulator Issue
In-Reply-To: <006801c7f5ae$4bc980c0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
References: <006801c7f5ae$4bc980c0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709122316o1027e983tba7c120c345ac391@mail.gmail.com>

Greg -

Take a file to the contacts in your regulator.  If the contact faces
are fouled, they may not be allowing sufficient charge to get to your
battery.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On 9/13/07, Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com> wrote:
> I have been having a charging issue with my BN1, the battery does not stay
> charged, charges OK on a charger.
>
> I have had the generator tested by a shop and it is OK.
>
> I messed with the voltage regulator a little bit, the cut out seems to
> operate a little early (low voltage, low RPMS) but I would not think that
> would affect charging.  I tried to adjust it but turning the adjustment
> screw and it made no difference.
>
> Tested the voltage regulator side, it was allowing a higher than spec
> voltage, I adjusted it down to spec of about 16 volts.
>
> Then I tested at the battery to see if it was getting charge, car off
> battery is about 12.9 volts, at idle 12.8, when I rev it it goes all over
> goes up to around 14 plus volts until about 2000 RPM, then after that it
> drops to slightly over 12, as understand it it should keep going up and
> stabilize at about 14.5??
>
> Anyway any advice from electrical gurus appreciated.
>
> If it is recommended that I get a new regulator I will do that, they are not
> that expensive and when I was much younger I fried pretty much my whole
> electrical system after messing with the voltage regulator, really don't
> want to do that again.
>
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Sep 13 00:21:44 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 14:21:44 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] (Minor) Healey Sighting
In-Reply-To: <46E8A200.3020402@comcast.net>
References: <46E8A200.3020402@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709122321m6a63e639gb6ac063a1b8edc7d@mail.gmail.com>

The irony is if you click on that link, it takes you to cars.com which
does not have any austin healeys in their system.

On 9/13/07, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>   http://classifieds.idahostatesman.com/
>   Note: "Find a Car"
>   Note  to  people  reading  the  archive/summary:  this  may be gone or
>   changed by the time
>   you browse to the page.
>   bs
> --
> ***************************************************************
> Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
> '67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Thu Sep 13 06:42:01 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 08:42:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Restoring Bakelite
Message-ID: <380-22007941312421859@earthlink.net>

Afew years ago an aftermarket--original looking--steering wheel was
installed on my BJ8.  It looks identical to the original and still looks
great after 6 years of use.

Sorry---can't tell you where I got it.  The person who was doing much work
on the car at the time researched it and bought it. A $900 resto of the
original seems a bit high to me. 

Tom  


> [Original Message]
> From: <dracmarine at aol.com>
> To: <glemon at neb.rr.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 9/12/2007 8:23:27 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Restoring Bakelite
>
> There was a person at Pebble Beach Concours this year in the first tent
that you enter to the show?who repaired Healey steering wheels among
others.? I recall he said something like $900.? I have two of them, both
cracked, so I went and bought a Tourist wood wheel from Moss. When I asked
about repairing the wheel on my 66 SL Bagoda Benz, he said don't bother,
get a new one from Mercedes, around $200.
>
> First time I ever heard of a German car anything being cheaper than a
Brit car...
>
> Richard of KY/CA
> BN7 440
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 3:44 pm
> Subject: [Healeys] Restoring Bakelite
>
>
>
> The subject of restoring bakelite such as our steering hubs and knobs on 
> some of our cars comes up from time to time, I got this from the MG
section 
> of the British Car Forum, haven't tried it, but a couple of guys said it 
> works very well,  if you are trying to get your bakelite to look a little 
> better may be worth a try.
>
> http://www.pensburymanor.com/PMBHRPPNo9.html
>
> Also if any listers have had experience with it good or bad feel free to 
> weigh in on the subject.
>
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1 
> _______________________________________________
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! -
http://mail.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Thu Sep 13 06:48:32 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 08:48:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Lucas Issue
Message-ID: <380-220079413124832796@earthlink.net>

Also--check tht low tension wire in the dist.  Make sure it is insulated
and can't contact the metal base of the dist.

  


> [Original Message]
> From: Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
> To: PG <bj8mk3 at shaw.ca>; Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 9/12/2007 10:40:02 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lucas Issue
>
> Paul:
>
> In addition to the suggestion from Alan:
>
> Likeliest cause - invisible corrosion on the battery posts / cable 
> terminals.  The exact same thing happened to me a few weeks ago - and
that 
> was with a previously applied coating of dielectric grease.  Cleaning
that 
> area solved the problem.
>
> The other thing coud be the battery master switch itself - they have been 
> known to go intermittent internally.
>
> If you suspect the black / white wire as per Alan's suggestion,
disconnect 
> it at the switch in the trunk rather than the coil, in case the problem
is 
> somewhere along it's run in the wiring harness.
>
> But I'd guess the battery posts.  Let us know.
>
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B.C.
> BT7 tri-carb
> BJ8
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "PG" <bj8mk3 at shaw.ca>
> To: "'Healey List'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 5:43 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Lucas Issue
>
>
> The Prince of Darkness has struck me for the first time in 3 years!
>
>
>
> About three weeks ago, my 67 BJ8 suddenly lost all electrical power.  I
was
> in first gear and starting on an uphill slope.  The car  "lurched" a bit
> when I let the clutch out and suddenly I was without power.  At that
time, I
> checked the "on/off" knob in the trunk and the connection at the starter
> solenoid but could find no short or loose connection.  All the fuses were
> fine and nothing else seemed out of order.
>
>
>
> I was about to push it onto the side of the driveway when the electrical
> started working again for no apparent reason.
>
>
>
> I was going to write the list but....
>
>
>
> Today, I was backing the car into a parking stall and Voila...the power
dies
> again.  Again, a miraculous cure after a few hours!.
>
>
>
> Rear "on/off" know is fine, Fuses are fine, connections as starter
solenoid
> are fine..
>
>
>
> I am thinking voltage regulator but would like some guidance first.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Paul
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From heard at datatrontech.net  Thu Sep 13 06:45:41 2007
From: heard at datatrontech.net (Heard Saxon)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 08:45:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Restoring Bakelite
In-Reply-To: <001401c7f58e$710b0fe0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
Message-ID: <20070913124952.YVND3965.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@heard>

Not sure if this is the same stuff, but way back when, in a former life, I
used to do maintenance on dot matrix printers.  There was a liquid used for
the platens (the rubber roller for the paper) that did the same thing.  It
would remove all ink and put a nice shine on those things.  Made 'em look
very black and very new.  I don't think bakelite is rubber, though.

Can't for the life of me remember what that stuff was called.

Heard

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+heard=datatrontech.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+heard=datatrontech.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Greg Lemon
Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 6:44 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Restoring Bakelite

The subject of restoring bakelite such as our steering hubs and knobs on 
some of our cars comes up from time to time, I got this from the MG section 
of the British Car Forum, haven't tried it, but a couple of guys said it 
works very well,  if you are trying to get your bakelite to look a little 
better may be worth a try.

http://www.pensburymanor.com/PMBHRPPNo9.html

Also if any listers have had experience with it good or bad feel free to 
weigh in on the subject.

Greg Lemon
54 BN1 

From mgtd51 at comcast.net  Thu Sep 13 06:52:09 2007
From: mgtd51 at comcast.net (Larry Swift)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 08:52:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Restoring Bakelite
In-Reply-To: <380-22007941312421859@earthlink.net>
References: <380-22007941312421859@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <46E93279.1090308@comcast.net>

check out mike lempert's web site

Tom Felts wrote:
> Afew years ago an aftermarket--original looking--steering wheel was
> installed on my BJ8.  It looks identical to the original and still looks
> great after 6 years of use.
>
> Sorry---can't tell you where I got it.  The person who was doing much work
> on the car at the time researched it and bought it. A $900 resto of the
> original seems a bit high to me. 
>
> Tom  
>
>
>   
>> [Original Message]
>> From: <dracmarine at aol.com>
>> To: <glemon at neb.rr.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Date: 9/12/2007 8:23:27 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Restoring Bakelite
>>
>> There was a person at Pebble Beach Concours this year in the first tent
>>     
> that you enter to the show?who repaired Healey steering wheels among
> others.? I recall he said something like $900.? I have two of them, both
> cracked, so I went and bought a Tourist wood wheel from Moss. When I asked
> about repairing the wheel on my 66 SL Bagoda Benz, he said don't bother,
> get a new one from Mercedes, around $200.
>   
>> First time I ever heard of a German car anything being cheaper than a
>>     
> Brit car...
>   
>> Richard of KY/CA
>> BN7 440
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com>
>> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Sent: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 3:44 pm
>> Subject: [Healeys] Restoring Bakelite
>>
>>
>>
>> The subject of restoring bakelite such as our steering hubs and knobs on 
>> some of our cars comes up from time to time, I got this from the MG
>>     
> section 
>   
>> of the British Car Forum, haven't tried it, but a couple of guys said it 
>> works very well,  if you are trying to get your bakelite to look a little 
>> better may be worth a try.
>>
>> http://www.pensburymanor.com/PMBHRPPNo9.html
>>
>> Also if any listers have had experience with it good or bad feel free to 
>> weigh in on the subject.
>>
>> Greg Lemon
>> 54 BN1 
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>
>> ________________________________________________________________________
>> Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! -
>>     
> http://mail.aol.com
>   
>> _______________________________________________
>> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>     
> _______________________________________________
> mgtd51 at comcast.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Thu Sep 13 07:11:01 2007
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 15:11:01 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Wiring loom clip at front wing Healey 100
Message-ID: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA8175003480257@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com>

I know one of the bolts fixing the front wings to the shroud holds a
wiring loom clip. I am not sure if it is the second or third from the
front. Before I put the wings off I wrote a notice, but cannot find it
anymore. Also I could not find it in any documentation  So I am looking
to the Healey 100 experts to answer that question.
Many thanks.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/GERMANY
54BN1, 62BT7, 65Sprite

From alan at andysnet.net  Thu Sep 13 07:35:07 2007
From: alan at andysnet.net (Alan Schultz)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 08:35:07 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BN6 top frame to windscreen clamps
In-Reply-To: <46E8CD08.105@bigpond.com>
References: <46E8CD08.105@bigpond.com>
Message-ID: <46E93C8B.7000103@andysnet.net>

I would try Norm Nock at FCS

Bill Shipton wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Can anyone recommend where I can get some good quality top frame to 
> windscreen clamps for my BN6? I bought some through a small reseller, 
> who

From Kendall.Freese at aerojet.com  Thu Sep 13 08:24:21 2007
From: Kendall.Freese at aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 07:24:21 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 motor mounts
Message-ID: <1B3BD9CCDD89084C9CC405C3258017F501ED3F43@SACMAIL1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

Who has the best rubber in their motor mounts? Or all of the suppliers
the same?
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Thu Sep 13 08:42:44 2007
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 10:42:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 motor mounts
References: <1B3BD9CCDD89084C9CC405C3258017F501ED3F43@SACMAIL1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
Message-ID: <02ac01c7f614$58bc6930$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>

I believe they are all the same. 

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Freese, Ken" <Kendall.Freese at aerojet.com>
To: "Healey Mail List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 10:24 AM
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 motor mounts


> Who has the best rubber in their motor mounts? Or all of the suppliers
> the same?
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8

From quenty at ntelos.net  Thu Sep 13 10:38:31 2007
From: quenty at ntelos.net (Dave Schweninger)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 12:38:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN6 top frame to windscreen clamps
In-Reply-To: <46E8CD08.105@bigpond.com>
References: <46E8CD08.105@bigpond.com>
Message-ID: <412DBF12-9B8D-405B-B6FB-7B7758C28AC6@ntelos.net>

Hi Bill
I will have to buy top clamps also. I'd like to know where yours came  
from, so I don't make the same mistake. I have the original clamps.  
Not in bad shape. Advanced Plating in KY. wanted $406 to re-plate  
them. Insane.
Thanks
Dave and Daisy. Who may have to go topless.

On Sep 13, 2007, at 1:39 AM, Bill Shipton wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> Can anyone recommend where I can get some good quality top frame to
> windscreen clamps for my BN6?

From kags at shaw.ca  Thu Sep 13 10:43:12 2007
From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 09:43:12 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Lucas Issue
Message-ID: <004b01c7f625$2cfa6a20$fb086c18@computer>

Steve:

You are absolutely right!  Brain freeze or too much vodka - not sure which.
I'm copying this to the list to avoid misleading others.

I'm still betting on battery posts, though.

Cheers,  -------  Earl

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
To: "Earl Kagna" <kags at shaw.ca>
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 4:19 AM
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Lucas Issue


Hi, Earl -

Since the purpose of the black/white wire is to ground the coil via the
switch, and if the wire happens to be grounded somewhere along its length,
wouldn't it be better to disconnect the wire at the coil?  In that case,
disconnecting at the switch wouldn't remove the ground.

I'm betting his problem is the switch.

Cheers!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA



Paul:

In addition to the suggestion from Alan:

Likeliest cause - invisible corrosion on the battery posts / cable
terminals.  The exact same thing happened to me a few weeks ago - and that
was with a previously applied coating of dielectric grease.  Cleaning that
area solved the problem.

The other thing coud be the battery master switch itself - they have been
known to go intermittent internally.

If you suspect the black / white wire as per Alan's suggestion, disconnect
it at the switch in the trunk rather than the coil, in case the problem is
somewhere along it's run in the wiring harness.

But I'd guess the battery posts.  Let us know.

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Thu Sep 13 10:48:16 2007
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 09:48:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN6 top frame to windscreen clamps
In-Reply-To: <46E8CD08.105@bigpond.com>
References: <46E8CD08.105@bigpond.com>
Message-ID: <25E5D03F-4D7B-40AC-ACFA-296C77BF9A64@sbcglobal.net>

We used to be getting good ones of these up until about 6 months ago.  
Just like many other parts that we get all of a sudden the supplier  
changes who is making the part and the quality goes to crap. As of  
right now there is not a good quality latch available. They don't  
latch the chrome is crap and the pins are loose.

We usually try to weed these out before we send them out but  
sometimes that is all that is available.

If you have a good chromer get them done considering  the new crappy  
ones were almost $200.00


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Sep 12, 2007, at 10:39 PM, Bill Shipton wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> Can anyone recommend where I can get some good quality top frame to
> windscreen clamps for my BN6? I bought some through a small reseller,
> who got them from a large well known supplier, but they were rubbish-
> brand new and the pins were already falling out and the chrome was
> flaking off! I returned them and the reseller said they could replace
> them, but that I shouldn't be surprised if the replacements weren't  
> much
> better.....
>
> I'm in Vancouver but am happy to buy from anywhere that sells a good
> quality item. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Bill.
> _______________________________________________
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From JNBrashear at garverengineers.com  Thu Sep 13 12:39:47 2007
From: JNBrashear at garverengineers.com (Brashear, Jack, N)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 13:39:47 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BN6 top frame to windscreen clamps
In-Reply-To: <412DBF12-9B8D-405B-B6FB-7B7758C28AC6@ntelos.net>
Message-ID: <2D0989D186D44349BE853EE6CFC87AE6035694FF@glitas07.garverinc.local>

Just under two years ago I sent an original hand brake lever and (a few
months later) the original top frame-to-windshield clamps for a BN7 to a
shop in Shreveport, LA.  When returned to me, all items were superbly
rechromed.  The shop even smoothed out rough spots before rechroming.
Their prices were pretty dang cheap too!!  Try them at United Bumper,
800-673-2211.  Mr. James Hunter was the person I talked to both times.
Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+jnbrashear=garverengineers.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+jnbrashear=garverengineers.com at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dave Schweninger
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 11:39 AM
To: ecsaustralia at bigpond.com; Healeys at Autox
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN6 top frame to windscreen clamps

Hi Bill
I will have to buy top clamps also. I'd like to know where yours came
from, so I don't make the same mistake. I have the original clamps.
Not in bad shape. Advanced Plating in KY. wanted $406 to re-plate
them. Insane.
Thanks
Dave and Daisy. Who may have to go topless.

On Sep 13, 2007, at 1:39 AM, Bill Shipton wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> Can anyone recommend where I can get some good quality top frame to
> windscreen clamps for my BN6

From ktaplin at prexar.com  Thu Sep 13 13:25:12 2007
From: ktaplin at prexar.com (Ken Taplin)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 15:25:12 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Restoring Bakelite
References: <380-22007941312421859@earthlink.net>
	<46E93279.1090308@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <002801c7f63b$cf0652f0$02876341@YOUR85A8F7B8EC>

JB weld is what I use to repair cracked steering wheels and such.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Larry Swift" <mgtd51 at comcast.net>
To: <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>; <dracmarine at aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 8:52 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Restoring Bakelite


> check out mike lempert's web site
>
> Tom Felts wrote:
>> Afew years ago an aftermarket--original looking--steering wheel was
>> installed on my BJ8.  It looks identical to the original and still looks
>> great after 6 years of use.
>>
>> Sorry---can't tell you where I got it.  The person who was doing much 
>> work
>> on the car at the time researched it and bought it. A $900 resto of the
>> original seems a bit high to me.
>>
>> Tom
>>
>>
>>
>>> [Original Message]
>>> From: <dracmarine at aol.com>
>>> To: <glemon at neb.rr.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> Date: 9/12/2007 8:23:27 PM
>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Restoring Bakelite
>>>
>>> There was a person at Pebble Beach Concours this year in the first tent
>>>
>> that you enter to the show?who repaired Healey steering wheels among
>> others.? I recall he said something like $900.? I have two of them, both
>> cracked, so I went and bought a Tourist wood wheel from Moss. When I 
>> asked
>> about repairing the wheel on my 66 SL Bagoda Benz, he said don't bother,
>> get a new one from Mercedes, around $200.
>>
>>> First time I ever heard of a German car anything being cheaper than a
>>>
>> Brit car...
>>
>>> Richard of KY/CA
>>> BN7 440
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com>
>>> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Sent: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 3:44 pm
>>> Subject: [Healeys] Restoring Bakelite
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> The subject of restoring bakelite such as our steering hubs and knobs on
>>> some of our cars comes up from time to time, I got this from the MG
>>>
>> section
>>
>>> of the British Car Forum, haven't tried it, but a couple of guys said it
>>> works very well,  if you are trying to get your bakelite to look a 
>>> little
>>> better may be worth a try.
>>>
>>> http://www.pensburymanor.com/PMBHRPPNo9.html
>>>
>>> Also if any listers have had experience with it good or bad feel free to
>>> weigh in on the subject.
>>>
>>> Greg Lemon
>>> 54 BN1
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>>
>>> ________________________________________________________________________
>>> Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! -
>>>
>> http://mail.aol.com
>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> tomfelts at earthlink.net
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> mgtd51 at comcast.net
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> _______________________________________________
> ktaplin at prexar.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From pdzwig at summaventures.com  Thu Sep 13 15:19:03 2007
From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 22:19:03 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Restoring Bakelite
In-Reply-To: <20070913124952.YVND3965.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@heard>
References: <20070913124952.YVND3965.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@heard>
Message-ID: <46E9A947.2020506@summaventures.com>

There's some stuff that you can get called "Back to Black" which is available
for contemporary cars it cleans most of the gunk off the bakeliteon my dashboard
and round the horn(I have used it on my Healey). It comes in a variety of shapes
and forms from cans to wipe on sponges. It also comes from a variety of
manufacturers, but whoever supplies you usual cleaning materials should have it.

Once bakelite degrades though (as opposed to being plain dirty), there isn't a
whole lot you can do about it, though.

Peter Dzwig

Heard Saxon wrote:
> Not sure if this is the same stuff, but way back when, in a former life, I
> used to do maintenance on dot matrix printers.  There was a liquid used for
> the platens (the rubber roller for the paper) that did the same thing.  It
> would remove all ink and put a nice shine on those things.  Made 'em look
> very black and very new.  I don't think bakelite is rubber, though.
> 
> Can't for the life of me remember what that stuff was called.
> 
> Heard
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+heard=datatrontech.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+heard=datatrontech.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> Greg Lemon
> Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 6:44 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Restoring Bakelite
> 
> The subject of restoring bakelite such as our steering hubs and knobs on 
> some of our cars comes up from time to time, I got this from the MG section 
> of the British Car Forum, haven't tried it, but a couple of guys said it 
> works very well,  if you are trying to get your bakelite to look a little 
> better may be worth a try.
> 
> http://www.pensburymanor.com/PMBHRPPNo9.html
> 
> Also if any listers have had experience with it good or bad feel free to 
> weigh in on the subject.
> 
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1 
> _______________________________________________
> pdzwig at summaventures.com 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From jstmorris at yahoo.com  Thu Sep 13 15:46:49 2007
From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 17:46:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: [mg-tabc] Nigel Shiftright
Message-ID: <231376.49577.qm@web30309.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I never met Phil Frank but I surely enjoyed his creation - Nigel Shiftright.  Phil and Nigel will be missed.
  --Scott Morris, Simcoe, Ontario, Canada

Terry Sanders <taterry at pacbell.net> wrote:
    To: Tabc List <mg-tabc at yahoogroups.com>
From: Terry Sanders <taterry at pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 10:00:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [mg-tabc] Nigel Shiftright
   
  I am very sad to report that Nigel's creator, Phil Frank, passed away last night.
  
Phil,a TC owner, was a very good friend and we had a great deal of fun restoring an SA Tickford over a 12 year period. Farewell, my friend!
  
Commander Saunders out.


J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
       
---------------------------------
Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail  

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Thu Sep 13 16:09:12 2007
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (Steve B. Gerow)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 15:09:12 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Smitty info request
Message-ID: <C30F0318.254CD%steveg@abrazosdata.com>

Could someone please post the phone number of the current owner of the
Smitty Conversion business.

Thank you.
-- 
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6

From pennell at cox.net  Thu Sep 13 16:14:23 2007
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 18:14:23 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Restoring Bakelite
Message-ID: <17769573.1189721663500.JavaMail.root@eastrmwml01.mgt.cox.net>

> Afew years ago an aftermarket--original looking--steering wheel was
> installed on my BJ8.  It looks identical to the original and still looks
> great after 6 years of use.
> 
> Sorry---can't tell you where I got it.  The person who was doing much work
> on the car at the time researched it and bought it. A $900 resto of the
> original seems a bit high to me. 

I'll say!!!!!!!

Mine came from Healey Surgeons.  The first one was warped but Inan gave me a good one for it.  Looks exactly like original.

Keith Pennell

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Thu Sep 13 16:43:55 2007
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 15:43:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: [mg-tabc] Nigel Shiftright
In-Reply-To: <231376.49577.qm@web30309.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <231376.49577.qm@web30309.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10709131543v1fc8793bw7efd508f4691dc86@mail.gmail.com>

I have had the chance to meet Phil, but I am familiar with Nigel.  My life
is poorer for not having meet Phil, but much richer for having enjoyed
Nigel.
In case anyone missed it, here is a road test of the Shiftright Special.
http://www.roadandtrack.com/article.asp?section_id=3&article_id=3386
(make sure you read the data panel:
http://www.roadandtrack.com/assets/download/0604_mg_data_panel.pdf

And here is a copy of Phil's work:
http://squadron-mx5.net/sitebuilder/images/nigelshiftright-600x308.png

::: Raises a glass:::
Here's to you Phil, thanks for the smiles over the years.

Rick

On 9/13/07, J. Scott Morris <jstmorris at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> I never met Phil Frank but I surely enjoyed his creation - Nigel
> Shiftright.  Phil and Nigel will be missed.
>   --Scott Morris, Simcoe, Ontario, Canada
>
> Terry Sanders <taterry at pacbell.net> wrote:
>     To: Tabc List <mg-tabc at yahoogroups.com>
> From: Terry Sanders <taterry at pacbell.net>
> Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 10:00:56 -0700 (PDT)
> Subject: [mg-tabc] Nigel Shiftright
>
>   I am very sad to report that Nigel's creator, Phil Frank, passed away
> last night.
>
> Phil,a TC owner, was a very good friend and we had a great deal of fun
> restoring an SA Tickford over a 12 year period. Farewell, my friend!
>
> Commander Saunders out.
>
>
> J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
>
> ---------------------------------
> Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the
> boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail
> _______________________________________________
> richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From Editorgary at aol.com  Thu Sep 13 17:00:39 2007
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 19:00:39 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Testing cut-off switch/coil ground
Message-ID: <cb3.1a0d58a3.341b1b17@aol.com>

In a message dated 9/13/07 11:02:39 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
writes:


> Since the purpose of the black/white wire is to ground the coil via the
> switch, and if the wire happens to be grounded somewhere along its length,
> wouldn't it be better to disconnect the wire at the coil?  In that case,
> disconnecting at the switch wouldn't remove the ground.
>
> I'm betting his problem is the switch.
>

I'm betting on the switch as well, having had the same problem.
However, as a quick fix/test of the coil grounding circuit, the best place to
disconnect the black-white wire is in the bundle of front-to-rear connectors
under the fuse block. At the coil, the black-white is hard-connected with the
white wire from the dizzy(?) to a single connector, so to disconnect "at the
coil" you'd have to cut the wire.
When I fixed mine, it turned out that a tiny circlip on the cut-off switch
shaft had disintegrated, allowing the shaft to pull out just enough to ground
the coil to the chassis but while still allowing a connection between the
battery and chassis.
Cheers
gary


**************************************
 See what's new at
http://www.aol.com

From Subscribe at ClassicMGMagazine.com  Thu Sep 13 17:12:29 2007
From: Subscribe at ClassicMGMagazine.com (Classic MG)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 19:12:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Smitty info request
References: <C30F0318.254CD%steveg@abrazosdata.com>
Message-ID: <005c01c7f65b$9ab812c0$6601a8c0@LUNNEY1>

Pete Delaney is doing it from Harrisburg, North Carolina. P.O. Box 561, 
Harrisburg, N.C. 28075, 704-455-2585 . 704-455-8504 Fax

Beth Lunney, Publisher (704) 948-1745
Classic MG Magazine
8702 Taybrook Dr
Huntersville, NC 28078
(704) 948-1746
www.ClassicMGMagazine.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve B. Gerow" <steveg at abrazosdata.com>
To: "Healeys Newsgroup" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 6:09 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Smitty info request


> Could someone please post the phone number of the current owner of the
> Smitty Conversion business.
>
> Thank you.
> -- 
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
> _______________________________________________
> subscribe at classicmgmagazine.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From serraodan at gmail.com  Thu Sep 13 17:13:12 2007
From: serraodan at gmail.com (Dan Serrao)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 16:13:12 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN6 top frame to windscreen clamps
In-Reply-To: <2D0989D186D44349BE853EE6CFC87AE6035694FF@glitas07.garverinc.local>
References: <412DBF12-9B8D-405B-B6FB-7B7758C28AC6@ntelos.net>
	<2D0989D186D44349BE853EE6CFC87AE6035694FF@glitas07.garverinc.local>
Message-ID: <13f928820709131613h4ec7de65uf7901e50ffaa0ce8@mail.gmail.com>

I just took all my chrome to Ideal Plating in Tucson, AZ. He is supposed to
be one of the best and reasonable

Dan Serrao
1963 BJ7


On 9/13/07, Brashear, Jack, N <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com> wrote:
>
> Just under two years ago I sent an original hand brake lever and (a few
> months later) the original top frame-to-windshield clamps for a BN7 to a
> shop in Shreveport, LA.  When returned to me, all items were superbly
> rechromed.  The shop even smoothed out rough spots before rechroming.
> Their prices were pretty dang cheap too!!  Try them at United Bumper,
> 800-673-2211.  Mr. James Hunter was the person I talked to both times.
> Jack
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+jnbrashear=garverengineers.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+jnbrashear=garverengineers.com at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Dave Schweninger
> Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 11:39 AM
> To: ecsaustralia at bigpond.com; Healeys at Autox
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN6 top frame to windscreen clamps
>
> Hi Bill
> I will have to buy top clamps also. I'd like to know where yours came
> from, so I don't make the same mistake. I have the original clamps.
> Not in bad shape. Advanced Plating in KY. wanted $406 to re-plate
> them. Insane.
> Thanks
> Dave and Daisy. Who may have to go topless.
>
> On Sep 13, 2007, at 1:39 AM, Bill Shipton wrote:
>
> > Hi all,
> >
> > Can anyone recommend where I can get some good quality top frame to
> > windscreen clamps for my BN6
> _______________________________________________
> serraodan at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Thu Sep 13 17:52:13 2007
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 19:52:13 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] bj8 seat belt installation
Message-ID: <BAY108-F20ADEB84010455E7625FE7C8C30@phx.gbl>

Alan,

I received the slide bars for my seat belts today.  Could you please send me 
pictures of your bj8 seat belt installation?  It looks like I'll have to 
remove the round insert in the end of the webbing to feed it through the 
bracket and the slide bar, then back through the bracket.  Your picture will 
help quite a bit with this installation.

Thanks,

George


>From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
>To: "George Haywood" <haywoodone at hotmail.com>
>CC: healeys at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] bj8 seat belt installation
>Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 09:53:49 +0800
>
>George -
>
>You have to get a little seat belt "O" or a slide bar similar to this:
>
>http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/wescoperformance/3in-slidebar-wlabel.jpg
>
>Loop the belt from the underside of the mount, through the mount hole, then
>up and over the slide bar and back through the hole.  The odd shape of the
>hole in the mount will then anchor the seat belt firmly for safety, but if
>pushed backwards will become loose and you can adjust it.
>
>If you want I can probably send you a picture of my installation in a 
>couple
>of days.
>
>Good Luck!
>
>Alan
>

_________________________________________________________________
Gear up for Halo. 3 with free downloads and an exclusive offer. 
http://gethalo3gear.com?ocid=SeptemberWLHalo3_MSNHMTxt_1

From bj8mk3 at shaw.ca  Thu Sep 13 18:26:25 2007
From: bj8mk3 at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 17:26:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] black/white distributor ground wire
Message-ID: <003f01c7f665$e31c9720$0e02a8c0@ecarecenters.net>

Thanks for all your responses on my Lucas issue...consensus is overwhelming
that it is the cut off switch or black/white wire.

 

I used to know the purpose of the wire but cannot recall..can somebody
enlighten?

 

Paul

From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net  Thu Sep 13 18:33:06 2007
From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ronald J. Ray)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 19:33:06 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Headlight Adjustment
Message-ID: <EKEAINGPLPLMGCBCJIDKIEKKCNAA.ronald-ray@sbcglobal.net>

Does anyone have recommendations on the correct aiming adjustment of
headlights for a 3000?

Years ago, we owned a Plymouth which the owner's manual included specific
requirements for headlight adjustment, including the height above level
ground for aiming each headlight at a given distance from a vertical
distance.  I recall that the horizontal distance from the center of the car
was also included.

Thanks in advance.
Ron Ray

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat]

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Sep 13 18:46:44 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 08:46:44 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: [mg-tabc] Nigel Shiftright
In-Reply-To: <a3b984e10709131543v1fc8793bw7efd508f4691dc86@mail.gmail.com>
References: <231376.49577.qm@web30309.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<a3b984e10709131543v1fc8793bw7efd508f4691dc86@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709131746n7e93337ane4615659dcab6a24@mail.gmail.com>

Rick -

Thank you so much for passing that along, what a brilliant read.  When
I bought my BJ8 in '85 I was seriously thinking of getting a TC.  I
then realized something would be seriously wrong with me if I did and
went with the Healey instead!

Cheers,

Alan

On 9/14/07, Richard Ewald <richard.ewald at gmail.com> wrote:
> I have had the chance to meet Phil, but I am familiar with Nigel.  My life
> is poorer for not having meet Phil, but much richer for having enjoyed
> Nigel.
> In case anyone missed it, here is a road test of the Shiftright Special.
> http://www.roadandtrack.com/article.asp?section_id=3&article_id=3386
> (make sure you read the data panel:
> http://www.roadandtrack.com/assets/download/0604_mg_data_panel.pdf
>
> And here is a copy of Phil's work:
> http://squadron-mx5.net/sitebuilder/images/nigelshiftright-600x308.png
>
> ::: Raises a glass:::
> Here's to you Phil, thanks for the smiles over the years.
>
> Rick

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Sep 13 18:59:56 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 08:59:56 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] black/white distributor ground wire
In-Reply-To: <003f01c7f665$e31c9720$0e02a8c0@ecarecenters.net>
References: <003f01c7f665$e31c9720$0e02a8c0@ecarecenters.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709131759i5ac9cfbfj173a1e77293c5476@mail.gmail.com>

when the black and white wire is grounded, it grounds the ignition.
It is supposed to prevent a push start of the motor if someone
bypasses the battery circuit.  Probably more trouble than it's worth,
in all honestly.  Best to disconnect it.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On 9/14/07, PG <bj8mk3 at shaw.ca> wrote:
> Thanks for all your responses on my Lucas issue...consensus is overwhelming
> that it is the cut off switch or black/white wire.
>
>
>
> I used to know the purpose of the wire but cannot recall..can somebody
> enlighten?

From bj7healey at gto.net  Thu Sep 13 19:06:53 2007
From: bj7healey at gto.net (Bob Slater)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 21:06:53 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Headlight Adjustment
References: <EKEAINGPLPLMGCBCJIDKIEKKCNAA.ronald-ray@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <001801c7f66b$8bb336a0$6500a8c0@acer684c9a655d>

The Manual  just tells youto set the main driving beams straight ahead and 
parallel to one another and parallel to the road.
                  Bob BJ7
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ronald J. Ray" <ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healeys at Autox. Team. Net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 8:33 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Headlight Adjustment


> Does anyone have recommendations on the correct aiming adjustment of
> headlights for a 3000?
>
> Years ago, we owned a Plymouth which the owner's manual included specific
> requirements for headlight adjustment, including the height above level
> ground for aiming each headlight at a given distance from a vertical
> distance.  I recall that the horizontal distance from the center of the 
> car
> was also included.
>
> Thanks in advance.
> Ron Ray
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had 
> a name of winmail.dat]
> _______________________________________________
> bj7healey at gto.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.14/999 - Release Date: 9/10/2007 
> 5:43 PM

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Thu Sep 13 19:47:02 2007
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 21:47:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Headlight Adjustment
References: <EKEAINGPLPLMGCBCJIDKIEKKCNAA.ronald-ray@sbcglobal.net>
	<001801c7f66b$8bb336a0$6500a8c0@acer684c9a655d>
Message-ID: <035001c7f671$258e0430$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>

The following is how I've always set headlamps on  LHD car driving on the 
right side of the road here in North America.

Many years ago my Dad went along with me to show me how to aim the headlamps 
on my old '61 MGA. We went out onto a quiet straight flat stretch of country 
road at night and stopped on the road in the normal lane position of travel 
(making sure it was a place where there would be no other traffic). With 
headlamp rings already removed and adjusters accessible, we first placed my 
jacket over the left headlamp and proceeded to aim the right lamp so the 
beam was about 30 ft. ahead and clearly defining the edge of the pavement 
and the shoulder. I was told that this is important when having to find the 
edge of the road in bad conditions such as fog, snow and so on.

Then we proceeded to cover the right lamp and aim the left. This was set 
about straight ahead and much further out, about 80 ft. or so, and being 
careful that it did not shine to the left to impair oncoming drivers.

This has the lamps working as a team, curbside one to always clearly light 
the right edge of the road and onto the shoulder somewhat, while the left 
showed up the distance.

A double check was done by checking the high beam to make sure the left 
(distance) lamp still did not shine too high and be useless or too far to 
the oncoming lane.

It's always worked well for me.

Rich Chrysler





> Subject: [Healeys] Headlight Adjustment
>
>
>> Does anyone have recommendations on the correct aiming adjustment of
>> headlights for a 3000?
>> Thanks in advance.
>> Ron Ray

From Kendall.Freese at aerojet.com  Thu Sep 13 20:45:29 2007
From: Kendall.Freese at aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 19:45:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Testing cut-off switch/coil ground
References: <cb3.1a0d58a3.341b1b17@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1B3BD9CCDD89084C9CC405C3258017F5013A3C38@SACMAIL1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

He said he lost all power. To me that is not just the ignition. If the
black/white wire is grounded, you only lose ignition.
I think he has a battery terminal problem with the hot post, not the ground
post.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

________________________________

From: healeys-bounces+ken.freese=aerojet.com at autox.team.net on behalf of
Editorgary at aol.com
Sent: Thu 9/13/2007 4:00 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Testing cut-off switch/coil ground



In a message dated 9/13/07 11:02:39 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
writes:


> Since the purpose of the black/white wire is to ground the coil via the
> switch, and if the wire happens to be grounded somewhere along its length,
> wouldn't it be better to disconnect the wire at the coil?  In that case,
> disconnecting at the switch wouldn't remove the ground.
>
> I'm betting his problem is the switch.
>

I'm betting on the switch as well, having had the same problem.
However, as a quick fix/test of the coil grounding circuit, the best place to
disconnect the black-white wire is in the bundle of front-to-rear connectors
under the fuse block. At the coil, the black-white is hard-connected with the
white wire from the dizzy(?) to a single connector, so to disconnect "at the
coil" you'd have to cut the wire.
When I fixed mine, it turned out that a tiny circlip on the cut-off switch
shaft had disintegrated, allowing the shaft to pull out just enough to ground
the coil to the chassis but while still allowing a connection between the
battery and chassis.
Cheers
gary


**************************************
 See what's new at
http://www.aol.com <http://www.aol.com/>
_______________________________________________
ken.freese at aerojet.com

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From britishcars at shaw.ca  Thu Sep 13 21:04:37 2007
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 20:04:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Testing cut-off switch/coil ground
In-Reply-To: <1B3BD9CCDD89084C9CC405C3258017F5013A3C38@SACMAIL1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
Message-ID: <004a01c7f67b$fd4275f0$0e02a8c0@ecarecenters.net>

It is true, I lost 100% of power.

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+britishcars=shaw.ca at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+britishcars=shaw.ca at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Freese, Ken
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 7:45 PM
To: Editorgary at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Testing cut-off switch/coil ground

He said he lost all power. To me that is not just the ignition. If the
black/white wire is grounded, you only lose ignition.
I think he has a battery terminal problem with the hot post, not the ground
post.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

________________________________

From: healeys-bounces+ken.freese=aerojet.com at autox.team.net on behalf of
Editorgary at aol.com
Sent: Thu 9/13/2007 4:00 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Testing cut-off switch/coil ground



In a message dated 9/13/07 11:02:39 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
writes:


> Since the purpose of the black/white wire is to ground the coil via the
> switch, and if the wire happens to be grounded somewhere along its length,
> wouldn't it be better to disconnect the wire at the coil?  In that case,
> disconnecting at the switch wouldn't remove the ground.
>
> I'm betting his problem is the switch.
>

I'm betting on the switch as well, having had the same problem.
However, as a quick fix/test of the coil grounding circuit, the best place
to
disconnect the black-white wire is in the bundle of front-to-rear connectors
under the fuse block. At the coil, the black-white is hard-connected with
the
white wire from the dizzy(?) to a single connector, so to disconnect "at the
coil" you'd have to cut the wire.
When I fixed mine, it turned out that a tiny circlip on the cut-off switch
shaft had disintegrated, allowing the shaft to pull out just enough to
ground
the coil to the chassis but while still allowing a connection between the
battery and chassis.
Cheers
gary


**************************************
 See what's new at
http://www.aol.com <http://www.aol.com/>
_______________________________________________
ken.freese at aerojet.com

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
_______________________________________________
britishcars at shaw.ca 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From rwegner at synapse.net  Thu Sep 13 21:09:43 2007
From: rwegner at synapse.net (Richard Wegner)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 23:09:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Need some used parts for 59 BN6
In-Reply-To: <mailman.11604.1187997055.12556.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.11604.1187997055.12556.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <598c0c4a4a9566f57204d0f31d65cf61@synapse.net>

Hi,

I have a fellow club member who is looking for some good used parts for 
his 59 BN6.

Left and right door striker plates
Right side door handle (passenger)
Throttle relay rod
Petrol pipe with banjo unions

If anyone has any of these items please get in touch with me.

Thanks,
Richard

From bn1 at pacbell.net  Thu Sep 13 21:33:48 2007
From: bn1 at pacbell.net (Bill)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 20:33:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Testing cut-off switch/coil ground
In-Reply-To: <004a01c7f67b$fd4275f0$0e02a8c0@ecarecenters.net>
References: <004a01c7f67b$fd4275f0$0e02a8c0@ecarecenters.net>
Message-ID: <46EA011C.5070008@pacbell.net>

PG wrote:
> It is true, I lost 100% of power.
>   

This has been a long thread and I can't remember which model Healey you 
have.  Somewhat the same thing happened to me in the first Healey I ever 
owned, a '60 BT7.   The difference being my situation included The 
Prince of Darkness releasing  a whole lot of smoke.  It was the hot 
battery wire going up through the divider between the fuel tank pipe.  
The insulation on the wire wore through and it was grounding on the 
metal plate.  HTH

Bill Barnett
'53 BN1 #663

From rudedoggg at earthlink.net  Thu Sep 13 21:24:09 2007
From: rudedoggg at earthlink.net (John Rued)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 21:24:09 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: [mg-tabc] Nigel Shiftright
References: <231376.49577.qm@web30309.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001f01c7f681$69b0b170$e6a2e404@RUDEDOG>

I'll miss Travels with Farley... his strip that ran in The SF Chronicle 
about a park ranger and his circle of animal friends.  I especially liked 
the crow.

Last years Road and Track featured Phil's TC for the April Fool's road test 
(as told by Nigel Shiftright)..   Hilarious.

JR 

From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Thu Sep 13 23:00:20 2007
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Healey Bruce)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 22:00:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: [mg-tabc] Nigel Shiftright
References: <231376.49577.qm@web30309.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <003801c7f68c$27684e30$9101a8c0@home>

I am truly saddened by this.  The R&T April Fool's feature on Nigel's TC is 
a memorable piece.  My favorite Shiftright featured Nigel's soliloquy on 
rebuilding his engine, with apologies to Shakespeare: "To sleeve, perchance 
to ream . . . "  This occasioned me to search for it, but alas, I cannot 
find it in my files.

Bruce Steele
1960 BN7
Brea, CA
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
To: "John Trotter" <bmc_ah3000 at yahoo.ca>
Cc: "austin healey" <healeys at autox.team.net>; "Canadian Motorosport 
Historical Group" <cmshg at yahoogroups.com>; "Historic Rally" 
<historicrally at yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 2:46 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: [mg-tabc] Nigel Shiftright


>I never met Phil Frank but I surely enjoyed his creation - Nigel 
>Shiftright.  Phil and Nigel will be missed.
>  --Scott Morris, Simcoe, Ontario, Canada
>
> Terry Sanders <taterry at pacbell.net> wrote:
>    To: Tabc List <mg-tabc at yahoogroups.com>
> From: Terry Sanders <taterry at pacbell.net>
> Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 10:00:56 -0700 (PDT)
> Subject: [mg-tabc] Nigel Shiftright
>
>  I am very sad to report that Nigel's creator, Phil Frank, passed away 
> last night.
>
> Phil,a TC owner, was a very good friend and we had a great deal of fun 
> restoring an SA Tickford over a 12 year period. Farewell, my friend!
>
> Commander Saunders out.
>
>
> J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
>
> ---------------------------------
> Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the 
> boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail
> _______________________________________________
> healeybruce at roadrunner.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Fri Sep 14 07:35:43 2007
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 09:35:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Need some used parts for 59 BN6
References: <mailman.11604.1187997055.12556.healeys@autox.team.net>
	<598c0c4a4a9566f57204d0f31d65cf61@synapse.net>
Message-ID: <039e01c7f6d4$266659d0$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>

Richard, 

All these parts are readily available new. Why does he want used parts? 
Caveat emptor

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner at synapse.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 11:09 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Need some used parts for 59 BN6


> Hi,
> 
> I have a fellow club member who is looking for some good used parts for 
> his 59 BN6.
> 
> Left and right door striker plates
> Right side door handle (passenger)
> Throttle relay rod
> Petrol pipe with banjo unions
> 
> If anyone has any of these items please get in touch with me.
> 
> Thanks,
> Richard
> _______________________________________________
> richchrysler at quickclic.net 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From alexmm at roadrunner.com  Fri Sep 14 07:42:00 2007
From: alexmm at roadrunner.com (Alex)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 09:42:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Clean Friday funnies
Message-ID: <006e01c7f6d5$06cfb110$6b02a8c0@atc0f226cd3237>

 One day, a man came home and was greeted by his wife dressed in a very Sexy
nightie. 'Tie me up,' she purred, 'and you can do anything you want.'  So he
tied her up and went golfing.

*****************************************

A woman came home, screeching her car into the driveway, and ran into the
house. She slammed the door and shouted at the top of her lungs, 'Honey,
pack your bags. I won the lottery!'
The husband said, 'Oh my God! What should I pack, beach stuff or mountain
stuff?' 'Doesn't matter,' she said. 'Just get out.'

********************************************

Marriage is a relationship in which one person is always right, and the
other is a husband.

*************************************

A Polish immigrant went to the DMV to apply for a driver's license. First,
of course, he had to take an eye sight test The optician showed him a card
with the letters 'C Z W I X N O S T A C Z.'  'Can you read this?' the
optician asked. 'Read it?' the Polish guy replied, 'I know the guy.'


***********************************************
Mother Superior called all the nuns together and said to them, 'I must tell
you all something. We have a case of gonorrhea in the convent.'  'Thank
God,' said an elderly nun at the back. 'I'm so tired of chardonay.


 ********************************************

A wife was making a breakfast of fried eggs for her husband.Suddenly, her
husband burst into the kitchen. 'Careful,' he said, 'CAREFUL! Put in some
more butter! Oh my gosh! You're cooking too many at once. TOO MANY! Turn
them! TURN THEM NOW! We need more butter. Oh my gosh! WHERE are we going to
get MORE BUTTER? They're going to STICK! Careful. CAREFUL! I said be
CAREFUL! You NEVER listen
to me when you're cooking! Never! Turn them! Hurry up! Are you CRAZY? Have
you LOST your mind? Don't forget to salt them. You know you always forget to
salt them. Use the! salt. USE THE SALT! THE SALT!' The wife stared at him.
'What in the world is wrong with you? You think I don't know how to fry a
couple of eggs?' The husband calmly replied, 'I just wanted to show you what
it feels like when I'm driving.'

****************************************************

Fifty-one years ago, Herman James, a North Carolina mountain man, was
drafted by the Army. On his first day in basic training, the Army issued him
a comb. That afternoon the Army barber sheared off all his hair. On his
second day, the Army issued Herman a toothbrush. That afternoon the Army
dentist yanked seven of his teeth. On the third day, the Army issued him a
jock strap. The Army has been looking for Herman for 51 years.

*******************************************







No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.16/1005 - Release Date: 9/13/2007 
11:45 AM 

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Fri Sep 14 10:31:02 2007
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 12:31:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Voltage Regulator Problems
Message-ID: <03d901c7f6ec$a3de2d30$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>

Hello all,

I have a BN2 here with a freshly rebuilt generator and a new RB106 regulator.
Both have been bench tested and the regulator contacts cleaned and dressed,
and the regulator bench set by my rebuilder. Everything has been polarized for
Positive earth.

I installed all the above into the car and started the engine. The generator
is charging properly. The ignition light will not go out, but in fact as the
revs are increased, the charging indicator light glows brighter until it burns
out!

What is happening here? Everything worked fine on the bench under varying
loads. I'm rather gun shy of monkeying with the regulator as once upon a time
I caused an instant and nasty harness melt down.

Rich Chrysler

From paulbaker52 at yahoo.co.uk  Fri Sep 14 11:58:45 2007
From: paulbaker52 at yahoo.co.uk (Paul Baker)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 18:58:45 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [Healeys] black/white distributor ground wire
In-Reply-To: <003f01c7f665$e31c9720$0e02a8c0@ecarecenters.net>
Message-ID: <465931.53515.qm@web23408.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Paul,
   
  The problem you described in your previous email was the exact same problem I have had with my BJ8 for the last couple of weeks.  I ordered a new Battery cut off switch from AH Spares yesterday, fitted it this morning and also took the trouble to clean the battery posts etc..   I took the car for a long run this afternoon and no recurrence.
   
  Hope this helps.
   
  Paul
   
  67 BJ8
  66 BJ8 Sprint car
  65 Sprite 

PG <bj8mk3 at shaw.ca> wrote:
  Thanks for all your responses on my Lucas issue...consensus is overwhelming
that it is the cut off switch or black/white wire.



I used to know the purpose of the wire but cannot recall..can somebody
enlighten?



Paul
_______________________________________________
paulbaker52 at yahoo.co.uk 



       
---------------------------------
 For ideas on reducing your carbon footprint visit Yahoo! For Good this month.

From wericars at aol.com  Fri Sep 14 12:03:40 2007
From: wericars at aol.com (wericars at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 14:03:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] engine run on
In-Reply-To: <c47.1f415f81.3418ba71@aol.com>
References: <c47.1f415f81.3418ba71@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8C9C510B70966CD-63C-1AC3@FWM-M28.sysops.aol.com>

I wrote a long message on this subject about a month ago, but I think it was too big for the server because it was never peublished to the list.? I just can't bring myself to typing it all over again.


Bill
Boston area
65 BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: Go2ghill at aol.com
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 11:43 pm
Subject: [Healeys] engine run on



I'm experiencing engine run on and wondered what I might do to correct it.
The timing and carbs have been tuned and the car is running good.
Greg Hill
67 BJ8 
 



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
_______________________________________________
wericars at aol.com 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From Editorgary at aol.com  Fri Sep 14 12:16:04 2007
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 14:16:04 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] State Smog Laws
Message-ID: <c35.1ce86ce2.341c29e4@aol.com>

I've been asked to do my column in the next issue of Sports Car Market 
Magazine on factors affecting the value of British cars, so would appreciate your 
far-flung knowledge on the issue of smog controls. As I understand it, some 
states have a cut-off year for exemptions, some exempt all cars registered as 
classic or antique cars, and others have a rolling horizon. I'd like to do a 
survey of what laws are currently in effect in as many states as possible? 

An example of an answer is:

"In California, in order to register or renew, all cars built after 1975 must 
be smog-tested against the equipment and emissions standards that applied in 
the year they were manufactured. All cars built in 1975 and before are exempt 
from smog controls; this cut-off date is fixed and is not a rolling 
limitation."

You can respond to me directly, or post your answer on the list if you think 
others would be interested.

Thanks
Gary Anderson


**************************************
 See what's new at 
http://www.aol.com

From wilko2 at cox.net  Fri Sep 14 12:36:07 2007
From: wilko2 at cox.net (wilko2 at cox.net)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 11:36:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Need some used parts for 59 BN6
Message-ID: <18473556.1189794967908.JavaMail.root@fed1wml02.mgt.cox.net>

There are many on this list who would prefer original parts. Specially when compared to the questionable quality of many of the available repros.

Wilko

---- Rich C <richchrysler at quickclic.net> wrote: 
> Richard, 
> 
> All these parts are readily available new. Why does he want used parts? 
> Caveat emptor
> 
> Rich Chrysler

From Editorgary at aol.com  Fri Sep 14 12:43:01 2007
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 14:43:01 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] British Convenience
Message-ID: <bf0.19376836.341c3035@aol.com>

In a message dated 9/14/07 11:03:32 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net 
writes:


> I ordered a new Battery cut off switch from AH Spares yesterday, fitted it 
> this morning
> 
The British postal system is amazing! Bet he got his delivery while he was 
fixing his breakfast tea and toast!
Cheers
Gary



**************************************
 See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From bcrist at club-internet.fr  Fri Sep 14 13:25:31 2007
From: bcrist at club-internet.fr (Bernard Cristalli)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 21:25:31 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] penpal: 99% non healey
Message-ID: <46EAE02B.2080903@club-internet.fr>

Hi listers ,

I'm looking for a (girl) penpal for my 13 yo daughter to write letters 
and ideally to visit each other. 
I'm in France, near Paris. And i'm looking for someone preferentially in 
UK (but USA is quite possible too).
She's been learning english for 5 years (intensively for the last 2 
years). She's not fluent so far, but is quite good (IMHO).
So, what she's looking for is a girl her age or 1 year older, learning 
french and wanting to have a french friend.
If you've got this matching number contact me off list, (jagxk120 at gmail.com)

Thanks a lot, Have a good week-end  
Bernard

From alexmm at roadrunner.com  Fri Sep 14 13:43:11 2007
From: alexmm at roadrunner.com (Alex)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 15:43:11 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] State Smog Laws
References: <c35.1ce86ce2.341c29e4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <008401c7f707$7c1410b0$6b02a8c0@atc0f226cd3237>

In Maine there are no smog emissions tests at all.

== Alex in Maine
     "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7
     "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321
     Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8, 
     1965 MG Midget
     http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Fri Sep 14 14:11:43 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (sbyers at ec.rr.com)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 16:11:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: RE:  Black/white wire
Message-ID: <30176582.892721189800704055.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web25-z02>

Yeah, Earl, I was right in my thinking, but wrong in reality.  Gary Anderson is 
correct:  You can't disconnect the black/white wire at the coil because then 
you'll also be disabling the distributor.   I was thinking that there were two 
separate black/white wires attached to a double terminal on the coil, but that 
would be defeating the purpose, wouldn't it? 
 
You can only disconnect the black/white wire at the cutoff switch and not at the 
coil if you're going to continue to drive the car afterwards. 
 
On another note, I'm at Southeastern Healey Classic XXI in Little Switzerland, 
NC.  After months and months of drought here in western NC, the skies opened up during the night with a deluge and the rain has continued all day!  The rally 
(and pretty much everything else) is on hold until tomorrow.  The weather is 
supposed to improve, I think. 
 
Sorry, Earl 
Steve Byers 
HBJ8L/36666 
BJ8 Registry 
Havelock, NC USA 
 
---- Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca> wrote: 
> Steve: 
> 
> You are absolutely right!  Brain freeze or too much vodka - not sure which. 
> I'm copying this to the list to avoid misleading others. 
> 
> I'm still betting on battery posts, though. 
> 
> Cheers,  -------  Earl 

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Fri Sep 14 14:27:23 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (sbyers at ec.rr.com)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 16:27:23 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] State Smog Laws
Message-ID: <4644000.893061189801643927.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web25-z02>

In North Carolina, cars 35 years old and older do not have to be inspected at all - neither smog nor normal safety inspection.  At the moment, the requirement for emissions inspection only applies to certain metropolitan areas but the coverage seems to be growing each year.  The requirement for an annual safety inspection applies statewide, except for the exemption on older cars.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA
---- Editorgary at aol.com wrote: 
> I've been asked to do my column in the next issue of Sports Car Market 
> Magazine on factors affecting the value of British cars, so would appreciate your 
> far-flung knowledge on the issue of smog controls. As I understand it, some 
> states have a cut-off year for exemptions, some exempt all cars registered as 
> classic or antique cars, and others have a rolling horizon. I'd like to do a 
> survey of what laws are currently in effect in as many states as possible? 
> 
> An example of an answer is:
> 
> "In California, in order to register or renew, all cars built after 1975 must 
> be smog-tested against the equipment and emissions standards that applied in 
> the year they were manufactured. All cars built in 1975 and before are exempt 
> from smog controls; this cut-off date is fixed and is not a rolling 
> limitation."
> 
> You can respond to me directly, or post your answer on the list if you think 
> others would be interested.
> 
> Thanks
> Gary Anderson
> 
> 
> **************************************
>  See what's new at 
> http://www.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> sbyers at ec.rr.com 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Fri Sep 14 14:49:44 2007
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 13:49:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: RE:  Black/white wire NOT
In-Reply-To: <30176582.892721189800704055.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web25-z02>
References: <30176582.892721189800704055.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web25-z02>
Message-ID: <43EEA5B2-CFD0-405A-A5B8-C320FE3DEF9C@sbcglobal.net>

To be correct there is not a black/white wire in a Austin Healey  
wiring harness. The wire actually is White/ Black you always call the  
main color first since that color is telling you the source of the  
power on that wire.  The white is hot all not fused when the key is  
on, and the black tracer is telling you it is going to ground.

Disconnecting the white/black wire at the turn off switch will not  
fix the problem is under the car. So the best way is to disconnect it  
behind the rear carb where the rear harness attaches to the main  
harness. This way if the wire is shorted on one of the harness clips  
under the car you are eliminating that problem.






David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Sep 14, 2007, at 1:11 PM, <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:

> Yeah, Earl, I was right in my thinking, but wrong in reality.  Gary  
> Anderson is
> correct:  You can't disconnect the black/white wire at the coil  
> because then
> you'll also be disabling the distributor.   I was thinking that  
> there were two
> separate black/white wires attached to a double terminal on the  
> coil, but that
> would be defeating the purpose, wouldn't it?
>
> You can only disconnect the black/white wire at the cutoff switch  
> and not at the
> coil if you're going to continue to drive the car afterwards.
>
> On another note, I'm at Southeastern Healey Classic XXI in Little  
> Switzerland,
> NC.  After months and months of drought here in western NC, the  
> skies opened up during the night with a deluge and the rain has  
> continued all day!  The rally
> (and pretty much everything else) is on hold until tomorrow.  The  
> weather is
> supposed to improve, I think.
>
> Sorry, Earl
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
>
> ---- Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca> wrote:
>> Steve:
>>
>> You are absolutely right!  Brain freeze or too much vodka - not  
>> sure which.
>> I'm copying this to the list to avoid misleading others.
>>
>> I'm still betting on battery posts, though.
>>
>> Cheers,  -------  Earl
> _______________________________________________
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From ricksnover at earthlink.net  Fri Sep 14 14:51:41 2007
From: ricksnover at earthlink.net (Rick Snover)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 13:51:41 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] State Smog Laws
In-Reply-To: <4644000.893061189801643927.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web25-z02>
References: <4644000.893061189801643927.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web25-z02>
Message-ID: <6.2.2.1.2.20070914134958.02c44cc0@popd.ix.netcom.com>

At 01:27 PM 9/14/2007, sbyers at ec.rr.com wrote:
>In North Carolina, cars 35 years old and older do not have to be inspected 
>at all - neither smog nor normal safety inspection.

FWIW - California has no safety inspection requirements at all, regardless 
of the vehicle's age.

Rick

From AH at jharper.demon.co.uk  Fri Sep 14 14:57:48 2007
From: AH at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 21:57:48 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Voltage Regulator Problems
In-Reply-To: <03d901c7f6ec$a3de2d30$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>
References: <03d901c7f6ec$a3de2d30$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>
Message-ID: <eyaVR5MMXv6GFwiv@jharper.demon.co.uk>

Rich

If the indicator lamp is increasing in brightness and then burns out it 
is getting both positive and negative voltage added together so as to 
give something over 24 volts across it.

I would suggest that your generator has not been polarised correctly or 
has reverted of its own accord to its previous state. Just try 
re-polarising. Take a wire from the battery on the side not connected to 
the chassis and touch it for a few seconds on the 'F' field terminal of 
the generator. For your own peace of mind I suggest that you temporarily 
disconnect both generator leads but this should not actually be 
necessary.

If successful the indicator lamp should now reduce in intensity as the 
generator revs increase and eventually go out when the cut out points 
make

Regards

>
>I have a BN2 here with a freshly rebuilt generator and a new RB106 regulator.
>Both have been bench tested and the regulator contacts cleaned and dressed,
>and the regulator bench set by my rebuilder. Everything has been polarized for
>Positive earth.
>
>I installed all the above into the car and started the engine. The generator
>is charging properly. The ignition light will not go out, but in fact as the
>revs are increased, the charging indicator light glows brighter until it burns
>out!
>
>What is happening here? Everything worked fine on the bench under varying
>loads. I'm rather gun shy of monkeying with the regulator as once upon a time
>I caused an instant and nasty harness melt down.
>
>Rich Chrysler

-- 
John Harper

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Fri Sep 14 15:01:47 2007
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 14:01:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] State Smog Laws
In-Reply-To: <6.2.2.1.2.20070914134958.02c44cc0@popd.ix.netcom.com>
References: <4644000.893061189801643927.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web25-z02>
	<6.2.2.1.2.20070914134958.02c44cc0@popd.ix.netcom.com>
Message-ID: <3BFBD18B-9D51-4094-A7D2-CCAB4AFD9958@sbcglobal.net>

And it shows the amount of cars I see that have bald tires, no  
brakes, cracked windshields etc that should not be on the road is  
scarry.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Sep 14, 2007, at 1:51 PM, Rick Snover wrote:

> At 01:27 PM 9/14/2007, sbyers at ec.rr.com wrote:
>> In North Carolina, cars 35 years old and older do not have to be  
>> inspected
>> at all - neither smog nor normal safety inspection.
>
> FWIW - California has no safety inspection requirements at all,  
> regardless
> of the vehicle's age.
>
> Rick
> _______________________________________________
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Fri Sep 14 15:09:54 2007
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 17:09:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Voltage Regulator Problems
References: <03d901c7f6ec$a3de2d30$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>
	<eyaVR5MMXv6GFwiv@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Message-ID: <042b01c7f713$992fe280$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>

I have done exactly that, polarizing as you describe. No change.

Rich
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Harper" <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Cc: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 4:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Voltage Regulator Problems


>
> Rich
>
> If the indicator lamp is increasing in brightness and then burns out it is 
> getting both positive and negative voltage added together so as to give 
> something over 24 volts across it.
>
> I would suggest that your generator has not been polarised correctly or 
> has reverted of its own accord to its previous state. Just try 
> re-polarising. Take a wire from the battery on the side not connected to 
> the chassis and touch it for a few seconds on the 'F' field terminal of 
> the generator. For your own peace of mind I suggest that you temporarily 
> disconnect both generator leads but this should not actually be necessary.
>
> If successful the indicator lamp should now reduce in intensity as the 
> generator revs increase and eventually go out when the cut out points make
>
> Regards
>
>>
>>I have a BN2 here with a freshly rebuilt generator and a new RB106 
>>regulator.
>>Both have been bench tested and the regulator contacts cleaned and 
>>dressed,
>>and the regulator bench set by my rebuilder. Everything has been polarized 
>>for
>>Positive earth.
>>
>>I installed all the above into the car and started the engine. The 
>>generator
>>is charging properly. The ignition light will not go out, but in fact as 
>>the
>>revs are increased, the charging indicator light glows brighter until it 
>>burns
>>out!
>>
>>What is happening here? Everything worked fine on the bench under varying
>>loads. I'm rather gun shy of monkeying with the regulator as once upon a 
>>time
>>I caused an instant and nasty harness melt down.
>>
>>Rich Chrysler
>
> -- 
> John Harper

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Fri Sep 14 16:01:52 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 18:01:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: RE:  Black/white wire NOT
Message-ID: <380-22007951422152500@earthlink.net>

What does--say--a red/black wire tell you?

A serious question.

tom  


> [Original Message]
> From: David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
> To: <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 9/14/2007 4:50:18 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: RE:  Black/white wire NOT
>
> To be correct there is not a black/white wire in a Austin Healey  
> wiring harness. The wire actually is White/ Black you always call the  
> main color first since that color is telling you the source of the  
> power on that wire.  The white is hot all not fused when the key is  
> on, and the black tracer is telling you it is going to ground.
>
> Disconnecting the white/black wire at the turn off switch will not  
> fix the problem is under the car. So the best way is to disconnect it  
> behind the rear carb where the rear harness attaches to the main  
> harness. This way if the wire is shorted on one of the harness clips  
> under the car you are eliminating that problem.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> Stockton Ca 95205
> 209-948-8767
>
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
> .
> .
>
> On Sep 14, 2007, at 1:11 PM, <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:
>
> > Yeah, Earl, I was right in my thinking, but wrong in reality.  Gary  
> > Anderson is
> > correct:  You can't disconnect the black/white wire at the coil  
> > because then
> > you'll also be disabling the distributor.   I was thinking that  
> > there were two
> > separate black/white wires attached to a double terminal on the  
> > coil, but that
> > would be defeating the purpose, wouldn't it?
> >
> > You can only disconnect the black/white wire at the cutoff switch  
> > and not at the
> > coil if you're going to continue to drive the car afterwards.
> >
> > On another note, I'm at Southeastern Healey Classic XXI in Little  
> > Switzerland,
> > NC.  After months and months of drought here in western NC, the  
> > skies opened up during the night with a deluge and the rain has  
> > continued all day!  The rally
> > (and pretty much everything else) is on hold until tomorrow.  The  
> > weather is
> > supposed to improve, I think.
> >
> > Sorry, Earl
> > Steve Byers
> > HBJ8L/36666
> > BJ8 Registry
> > Havelock, NC USA
> >
> > ---- Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca> wrote:
> >> Steve:
> >>
> >> You are absolutely right!  Brain freeze or too much vodka - not  
> >> sure which.
> >> I'm copying this to the list to avoid misleading others.
> >>
> >> I'm still betting on battery posts, though.
> >>
> >> Cheers,  -------  Earl
> > _______________________________________________
> > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From alan at andysnet.net  Fri Sep 14 16:09:55 2007
From: alan at andysnet.net (Alan Schultz)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 17:09:55 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] State Smog Laws
In-Reply-To: <c35.1ce86ce2.341c29e4@aol.com>
References: <c35.1ce86ce2.341c29e4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <46EB06B3.6060201@andysnet.net>

Wisconsin has no smog or safety  checks for vehicles. It does enforce 
laws regarding resale of used cars by dealers to assure the cars they 
sale are in safe condition. Private sales are not regulated so cars sold 
by individuals could have serious safety defects.

Alan Schultz
67BJ8
 


Editorgary at aol.com wrote:
> I'd like to do a 
> survey of what laws are currently in effect in as many states as possible? 

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Sep 14 16:18:45 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 06:18:45 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: RE: Black/white wire
In-Reply-To: <30176582.892721189800704055.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web25-z02>
References: <30176582.892721189800704055.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web25-z02>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709141518w6bf21f4dmc2185fe5942ffe9d@mail.gmail.com>

Steve -

You're a little confused.  There are two white/black wires to the
coil.  One from the distributor, and one from the battery switch.  You
can disconnect the one from the battery switch with no problems.

I think you forgot because you probably have a pertonix unit on your
dizzy now, so the white black wire has been replaced with a red wire
from the dizzy.  That's the wire you can't disconnect.

Alan



On 9/15/07, sbyers at ec.rr.com <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:
> Yeah, Earl, I was right in my thinking, but wrong in reality.  Gary Anderson
> is
> correct:  You can't disconnect the black/white wire at the coil because then
> you'll also be disabling the distributor.   I was thinking that there were
> two
> separate black/white wires attached to a double terminal on the coil, but
> that
> would be defeating the purpose, wouldn't it?
>
> You can only disconnect the black/white wire at the cutoff switch and not at
> the
> coil if you're going to continue to drive the car afterwards.
>
> On another note, I'm at Southeastern Healey Classic XXI in Little
> Switzerland,
> NC.  After months and months of drought here in western NC, the skies opened
> up during the night with a deluge and the rain has continued all day!  The
> rally
> (and pretty much everything else) is on hold until tomorrow.  The weather is
> supposed to improve, I think.
>
> Sorry, Earl
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
>
> ---- Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca> wrote:
> > Steve:
> >
> > You are absolutely right!  Brain freeze or too much vodka - not sure
> which.
> > I'm copying this to the list to avoid misleading others.
> >
> > I'm still betting on battery posts, though.
> >
> > Cheers,  -------  Earl
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Sep 14 16:27:45 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 06:27:45 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] State Smog Laws
In-Reply-To: <3BFBD18B-9D51-4094-A7D2-CCAB4AFD9958@sbcglobal.net>
References: <4644000.893061189801643927.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web25-z02>
	<6.2.2.1.2.20070914134958.02c44cc0@popd.ix.netcom.com>
	<3BFBD18B-9D51-4094-A7D2-CCAB4AFD9958@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709141527t494f209dvb416cec3c5f577be@mail.gmail.com>

David -

Don't forget you're in Stockton.  Even if there was an MOT requirement
for California,  you'd still have all of these dangerous cars because
they would still qualify for that very special drivers' "cross border"
exemption, where the owner isn't required to register his car or have
a driver's license for that matter.

Cheers!

Alan


On 9/15/07, David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> And it shows the amount of cars I see that have bald tires, no
> brakes, cracked windshields etc that should not be on the road is
> scarry.
>
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> Stockton Ca 95205
> 209-948-8767
>
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
> .
> .
>
> On Sep 14, 2007, at 1:51 PM, Rick Snover wrote:
>
> > At 01:27 PM 9/14/2007, sbyers at ec.rr.com wrote:
> >> In North Carolina, cars 35 years old and older do not have to be
> >> inspected
> >> at all - neither smog nor normal safety inspection.
> >
> > FWIW - California has no safety inspection requirements at all,
> > regardless
> > of the vehicle's age.
> >
> > Rick
> > _______________________________________________
> > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From awgertoo at aol.com  Fri Sep 14 16:38:40 2007
From: awgertoo at aol.com (awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 18:38:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Targa Newfroundland--conclusion
Message-ID: <8C9C53721EE3164-980-2843@webmail-da07.sysops.aol.com>

This afternoon the Salter/Oritt team driving Healey 100 (AHX12) successfully finished the Targa Newfoundland!??

Yesterday the rearend began getting noisy and last night we found a garage to work in where the pumpkin?was removed.? On further examination we found the that the bolts?fixing the ring gear to the adapter plagte were loose and?rubbing against the housing.? Michael reinstalled them with some loc-tite,?buttoned the rear-end back up and pronounced us good to go.

Today we ran north from Marystown back to St. John's completing?all seven Targa stages without incident, most within the time allotted.??At the finish we received Finisher's medallions for completing the event under our own power, no mean feat in and of itself. And though all?awards will not be presented until tomorrow evening I know that we won our class!

Best--Michael Oritt
________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From TRICARB at aol.com  Fri Sep 14 18:51:13 2007
From: TRICARB at aol.com (TRICARB at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 20:51:13 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Scuttle Shake
Message-ID: <d54.1368f1d6.341c8681@aol.com>

Jon,
    I had the pleasure of discussing this phenomenon at  length with Geoff 
Healey.
He says that the vibration frequency of the box frame and the interior body  
panels are not the same.  They come together for a harmonic frequency at  
about 55 MPH.
       Jensen spot welded the interior  body to the frame, thus it is not a 
solid structure with the frame.  
    The phenomenon gets worst in the later Healeys as  Jensen increased the 
spacing of the spot welds to save costs.
    The solution, that I have found is to weld 1/2" x  1/2" angle iron on the 
inside of the transmission opening extending the angle  iron down and welded 
onto the box frame.    
    This ties the inner body to the frame making it one  vibration entity. 
    I have attached a photo of the installation  outlining the angle iron in 
red.
        Bill  Bolton



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of healey & shroud 003.jpg]

From rusd at sitestar.net  Fri Sep 14 19:01:59 2007
From: rusd at sitestar.net (Dave Russell)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 19:01:59 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: RE: Black/white wire
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0709141518w6bf21f4dmc2185fe5942ffe9d@mail.gmail.com>
References: <30176582.892721189800704055.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web25-z02>
	<ff59076c0709141518w6bf21f4dmc2185fe5942ffe9d@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <46EB2F07.4050506@sitestar.net>

Hi Guys,

I think the problem may be that the two White-Black wires on the coil, 
one going to the distributor - one going to the battery cutoff switch, 
are both connected to a single terminal lug at the coil. To disable the 
coil/points ground circuit , the wire going back to the battery switch 
must be physically cut loose from the terminal. Obviously, the remaining 
wire from points to coil must remain intact.

Regards,
Dave Russell

Alan Seigrist wrote:

>Steve -
>
>You're a little confused.  There are two white/black wires to the
>coil.  One from the distributor, and one from the battery switch.  You
>can disconnect the one from the battery switch with no problems.
>
>I think you forgot because you probably have a pertonix unit on your
>dizzy now, so the white black wire has been replaced with a red wire
>from the dizzy.  That's the wire you can't disconnect.
>
>Alan
>
>
>
>On 9/15/07, sbyers at ec.rr.com <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:
>  
>
>>Yeah, Earl, I was right in my thinking, but wrong in reality.  Gary Anderson
>>is
>>correct:  You can't disconnect the black/white wire at the coil because then
>>you'll also be disabling the distributor.   I was thinking that there were
>>two
>>separate black/white wires attached to a double terminal on the coil, but
>>that
>>would be defeating the purpose, wouldn't it?
>>
>>You can only disconnect the black/white wire at the cutoff switch and not at
>>the
>>coil if you're going to continue to drive the car afterwards.
>>
>>On another note, I'm at Southeastern Healey Classic XXI in Little
>>Switzerland,
>>NC.  After months and months of drought here in western NC, the skies opened
>>up during the night with a deluge and the rain has continued all day!  The
>>rally
>>(and pretty much everything else) is on hold until tomorrow.  The weather is
>>supposed to improve, I think.
>>
>>Sorry, Earl
>>Steve Byers
>>HBJ8L/36666
>>BJ8 Registry
>>Havelock, NC USA
>>
>>---- Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca> wrote:
>>    
>>
>>>Steve:
>>>
>>>You are absolutely right!  Brain freeze or too much vodka - not sure
>>>      
>>>
>>which.
>>    
>>
>>>I'm copying this to the list to avoid misleading others.
>>>
>>>I'm still betting on battery posts, though.
>>>
>>>Cheers,  -------  Earl

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Fri Sep 14 19:02:50 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (sbyers at ec.rr.com)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 21:02:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] White/Black wire
Message-ID: <3736092.897451189818170385.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web25-z02>

Alan -
My confusion was the same as yours is now.  Without bothering to check first, I was thinking that there are two SEPARATE white/black wires, each with its own terminal, connected to the coil.  In reality, both wires go into the same terminal, so at the coil you can't disconnect the wire coming from the switch without also disconnecting the wire going to the distributor.

I do not and have never had a Pertronix on my car.  Thought about it, but there are just about as many people on the list who have tried it and gone back to points as have tried it and think it's great.

Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA



-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com]
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 6:19 PM
To: sbyers at ec.rr.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: RE: Black/white wire


Steve -

You're a little confused.  There are two white/black wires to the
coil.  One from the distributor, and one from the battery switch.  You
can disconnect the one from the battery switch with no problems.

I think you forgot because you probably have a pertonix unit on your
dizzy now, so the white black wire has been replaced with a red wire
from the dizzy.  That's the wire you can't disconnect.

Alan

From rusd at sitestar.net  Fri Sep 14 19:13:56 2007
From: rusd at sitestar.net (Dave Russell)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 19:13:56 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Voltage Regulator Problems
In-Reply-To: <03d901c7f6ec$a3de2d30$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>
References: <03d901c7f6ec$a3de2d30$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>
Message-ID: <46EB31D4.70009@sitestar.net>

Hi Rich,

The red lamp normally lights when the generator output voltage is lower 
than the battery voltage.  As the generator voltage rises to match the 
battery voltage, there is the same voltage on both sides of the lamp & 
it goes out. In the rare case where the generator voltage goes 
considerably higher than the battery voltage for some reason, the red 
lamp will also light. Are you sure that the VR ground is good?

Regards,
Dave Russell

Rich C wrote:

>Hello all,
>
>I have a BN2 here with a freshly rebuilt generator and a new RB106 regulator.
>Both have been bench tested and the regulator contacts cleaned and dressed,
>and the regulator bench set by my rebuilder. Everything has been polarized for
>Positive earth.
>
>I installed all the above into the car and started the engine. The generator
>is charging properly. The ignition light will not go out, but in fact as the
>revs are increased, the charging indicator light glows brighter until it burns
>out!
>
>What is happening here? Everything worked fine on the bench under varying
>loads. I'm rather gun shy of monkeying with the regulator as once upon a time
>I caused an instant and nasty harness melt down.
>
>Rich Chrysler

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Fri Sep 14 20:14:14 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 22:14:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Scuttle Shake
Message-ID: <380-22007961521414125@earthlink.net>

FWIW, I had this mod done to my BJ8.  It made a noticable difference.

tom  


> [Original Message]
> From: <TRICARB at aol.com>
> To: <38derby at suscom-maine.net>
> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 9/14/2007 8:52:00 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Scuttle Shake
>
> Jon,
>     I had the pleasure of discussing this phenomenon at  length with
Geoff 
> Healey.
> He says that the vibration frequency of the box frame and the interior
body  
> panels are not the same.  They come together for a harmonic frequency at  
> about 55 MPH.
>        Jensen spot welded the interior  body to the frame, thus it is not
a 
> solid structure with the frame.  
>     The phenomenon gets worst in the later Healeys as  Jensen increased
the 
> spacing of the spot welds to save costs.
>     The solution, that I have found is to weld 1/2" x  1/2" angle iron on
the 
> inside of the transmission opening extending the angle  iron down and
welded 
> onto the box frame.    
>     This ties the inner body to the frame making it one  vibration
entity. 
>     I have attached a photo of the installation  outlining the angle iron
in 
> red.
>         Bill  Bolton
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at
http://www.aol.com
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name
of healey & shroud 003.jpg]
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Fri Sep 14 20:16:33 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 22:16:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] White/Black wire
Message-ID: <380-2200796152163393@earthlink.net>

Hey Steve---count me as one who thinks Pertronix is the best thing since
sliced bread!!  7/8 years in the Healey and 6 years in the E-Type and both
are going strong.  I, for one, will never go back to points.  The
difference in how the cars run with it vs w/o it is noticable. 

tom 


> [Original Message]
> From: <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 9/14/2007 9:02:50 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] White/Black wire
>
> Alan -
> My confusion was the same as yours is now.  Without bothering to check
first, I was thinking that there are two SEPARATE white/black wires, each
with its own terminal, connected to the coil.  In reality, both wires go
into the same terminal, so at the coil you can't disconnect the wire coming
from the switch without also disconnecting the wire going to the
distributor.
>
> I do not and have never had a Pertronix on my car.  Thought about it, but
there are just about as many people on the list who have tried it and gone
back to points as have tried it and think it's great.
>
> Happy Healeying!
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com]
> Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 6:19 PM
> To: sbyers at ec.rr.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: RE: Black/white wire
>
>
> Steve -
>
> You're a little confused.  There are two white/black wires to the
> coil.  One from the distributor, and one from the battery switch.  You
> can disconnect the one from the battery switch with no problems.
>
> I think you forgot because you probably have a pertonix unit on your
> dizzy now, so the white black wire has been replaced with a red wire
> from the dizzy.  That's the wire you can't disconnect.
>
> Alan
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From healeyray at yahoo.com  Fri Sep 14 21:38:05 2007
From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 20:38:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] friday funny
Message-ID: <306775.35159.qm@web55213.mail.re4.yahoo.com>

This is slightly off color.  Delete if easily offended.
Ray Juncal








Why  enunciation is important...


I had a bunch of Mexican Pesos I needed to exchange, so I went to the
currency exchange window at the local bank.  

Short line.  Just one lady in front of me. . .an Asian lady who was trying to
exchange yen for dollars and I could see she was a little irritated . .

She demanded of the teller, "Why it change?  Yesterday, I get two hunat 
dolla of yen. Today I get hunat eighty!  Why it change?"

The teller tried to explain that the exchange rates vary from day to day, but it appeared that his efforts got lost in translation.

The lady, getting more and more adamant, kept repeating, "Why it Change?  Why it change?"

The teller, exasperated, finally shrugged his shoulders and replied, "Fluctuations".

She seemed rather taken back by this comment, gathered herself and then shouted, "Fluc you white people, too!"


       
---------------------------------
 Check out  the hottest 2008 models today at Yahoo! Autos.

From bluechipracing at snet.net  Fri Sep 14 22:07:08 2007
From: bluechipracing at snet.net (bluechip)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 00:07:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Targa Newfroundland--conclusion
References: <8C9C53721EE3164-980-2843@webmail-da07.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <004001c7f74d$e2c0d820$1f9bfea9@dell>

Michael and Michael.....Congratulations, and a tip of the Blue Chip hat. 
HEALEYS RULE!

Jim Smith


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <awgertoo at aol.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>; <caahc at yahoogroups.com>; <Orbittor at aol.com>; 
<NSR at adorno.com>; <DWRIPPLE at aol.com>; <soritt at earthlink.net>; 
<meredith.oritt at wolfgangpuck.com>
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 6:38 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Targa Newfroundland--conclusion


> This afternoon the Salter/Oritt team driving Healey 100 (AHX12) 
> successfully finished the Targa Newfoundland!??
>
> Yesterday the rearend began getting noisy and last night we found a garage 
> to work in where the pumpkin?was removed.? On further examination we found 
> the that the bolts?fixing the ring gear to the adapter plagte were loose 
> and?rubbing against the housing.? Michael reinstalled them with some 
> loc-tite,?buttoned the rear-end back up and pronounced us good to go.
>
> Today we ran north from Marystown back to St. John's completing?all seven 
> Targa stages without incident, most within the time allotted.??At the 
> finish we received Finisher's medallions for completing the event under 
> our own power, no mean feat in and of itself. And though all?awards will 
> not be presented until tomorrow evening I know that we won our class!
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - 
> http://mail.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> bluechipracing at snet.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Fri Sep 14 22:15:19 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 23:15:19 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Targa Newfroundland--conclusion
References: <8C9C53721EE3164-980-2843@webmail-da07.sysops.aol.com>
	<004001c7f74d$e2c0d820$1f9bfea9@dell>
Message-ID: <00fd01c7f74f$079dfd20$6401a8c0@toshibauser>

Michael and Michael, Congratulations and thanks for bearing the Healy torch 
proudly and also for sharing the adventure through the list.

Greg Lemon

From rahosmer at citlink.net  Fri Sep 14 22:33:49 2007
From: rahosmer at citlink.net (Richard Hosmer)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 21:33:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] State Smog Laws
In-Reply-To: <6.2.2.1.2.20070914134958.02c44cc0@popd.ix.netcom.com>
Message-ID: <C310AEBD.E71C%rahosmer@citlink.net>

Of course we don't! Here in the People's Republic of Kalifornia, we are
AFRAID we might OFFEND someone (guess to which huge group of non-citizens I
am referring) driving a clunker - better to permit some innocent party to
get killed than risk the former.  Arrrgggghhhhhh!!!!!

Dick Hosmer

From rrengineer at dslextreme.com  Fri Sep 14 23:23:56 2007
From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer at dslextreme.com)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 22:23:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Scuttle Shake
In-Reply-To: <380-22007961521414125@earthlink.net>
References: <380-22007961521414125@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <15620a398b8a35750a2a230a.20070914222356.eeratvarre@www.dslextreme.com>

Is Scuttle shake a 6 cylinder phenomenon or are the 4 cylinder cars
affected by it also?  My car is almost ready to paint, so it's not too
late to install this mod.
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5


Tom Felts
> FWIW, I had this mod done to my BJ8.  It made a noticable difference.
>
> tom
>
>
>> [Original Message]
>> From: <TRICARB at aol.com>
>> To: <38derby at suscom-maine.net>
>> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Date: 9/14/2007 8:52:00 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Scuttle Shake
>>
>> Jon,
>>     I had the pleasure of discussing this phenomenon at  length with
> Geoff
>> Healey.
>> He says that the vibration frequency of the box frame and the interior
> body
>> panels are not the same.  They come together for a harmonic frequency at
>> about 55 MPH.
>>        Jensen spot welded the interior  body to the frame, thus it is
>> not
> a
>> solid structure with the frame.
>>     The phenomenon gets worst in the later Healeys as  Jensen increased
> the
>> spacing of the spot welds to save costs.
>>     The solution, that I have found is to weld 1/2" x  1/2" angle iron
>> on
> the
>> inside of the transmission opening extending the angle  iron down and
> welded
>> onto the box frame.
>>     This ties the inner body to the frame making it one  vibration
> entity.
>>     I have attached a photo of the installation  outlining the angle
>> iron
> in
>> red.
>>         Bill  Bolton
>>
>>
>>
>> ************************************** See what's new at
> http://www.aol.com
>>
>> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name
> of healey & shroud 003.jpg]
>> _______________________________________________
>> tomfelts at earthlink.net
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> _______________________________________________
> rrengineer at dslextreme.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From DRACMARINE at aol.com  Fri Sep 14 23:34:49 2007
From: DRACMARINE at aol.com (DRACMARINE at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 01:34:49 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] State Smog Laws
Message-ID: <bf6.1dd395f2.341cc8f9@aol.com>

Yup, true re the Peoples Republik of Kalifornia...Drive up to the smog test  
and bait shop out here, pass the emissions on bald tires and broken  
headlights and fail because your K & N air filter doesn't have a CA  approved silver 
sticker on it indicating someone failed to pay tribute to the  pols in 
Sacramento.
 
Whodda thunk it
 
Richard of Ca/Ky
BN7 440
 
 
 



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From fortee9er at yahoo.com  Sat Sep 15 00:01:46 2007
From: fortee9er at yahoo.com (Jorge Garcia)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 23:01:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Archives
Message-ID: <31490.58955.qm@web54507.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

How can I look at messages posted prior to June 2007? I followed the links to the archives but found that only June - September 2007 were avaialable.
  Thanks
  Jorge Garcia

       
---------------------------------
Tonight's top picks. What will you watch tonight? Preview the hottest shows on Yahoo! TV.    

From schauss at worldnet.att.net  Sat Sep 15 03:59:14 2007
From: schauss at worldnet.att.net (Peter Schauss)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 05:59:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] State Smog Laws
In-Reply-To: <c35.1ce86ce2.341c29e4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20070915095942.3E00F1879D8@autox.team.net>

Gary,

New York requires an emission inspection for all cars 25 years old or less.
Beyond 25 years only a safety inspection is required.

Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB (finally exempt from the emissions inspection)

> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+schauss=worldnet.att.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+schauss=worldnet.att.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf
> Of Editorgary at aol.com
> Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 2:16 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] State Smog Laws
> 
> I've been asked to do my column in the next issue of Sports Car Market
> Magazine on factors affecting the value of British cars, so would
> appreciate your
> far-flung knowledge on the issue of smog controls. As I understand it,
> some
> states have a cut-off year for exemptions, some exempt all cars registered
> as
> classic or antique cars, and others have a rolling horizon. I'd like to do
> a
> survey of what laws are currently in effect in as many states as possible?
> 
> An example of an answer is:
> 
> "In California, in order to register or renew, all cars built after 1975
> must
> be smog-tested against the equipment and emissions standards that applied
> in
> the year they were manufactured. All cars built in 1975 and before are
> exempt
> from smog controls; this cut-off date is fixed and is not a rolling
> limitation."
> 
> You can respond to me directly, or post your answer on the list if you
> think
> others would be interested.
> 
> Thanks
> Gary Anderson
> 
> 
> **************************************
>  See what's new at
> http://www.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> schauss at worldnet.att.net
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From dcongleton at embarqmail.com  Sat Sep 15 06:10:30 2007
From: dcongleton at embarqmail.com (Dallas Congleton)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 08:10:30 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Archives
References: <31490.58955.qm@web54507.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <007901c7f791$6962cdf0$0201a8c0@your4dacd0ea75>

Try this Jorge-
Dallas

http://www.team.net/mharc/archives/html/healeys/





----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jorge Garcia" <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2007 2:01 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Archives


> How can I look at messages posted prior to June 2007? I followed the links 
> to the archives but found that only June - September 2007 were avaialable.
>  Thanks
>  Jorge Garcia
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Tonight's top picks. What will you watch tonight? Preview the hottest 
> shows on Yahoo! TV.
> _______________________________________________
> dcongleton at embarqmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From insptwo at msn.com  Sat Sep 15 06:39:55 2007
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 08:39:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] late friday funny: the support manyou call for Microsoft
 and AOL
Message-ID: <BAY106-F3769959B71AE945D99990EADBD0@phx.gbl>

>Subject: Finally found that guy I've been talking to at Microsoft?and AOL
>for support......................
>
>
>
>Mujibar was trying to get a job in India .
>
>The Personnel Manager said, "Mujibar, you have
>
>passed all the tests, except one. Unless you pass
>
>it you cannot qualify for this job."
>
>Mujibar said, "I am ready"
>
>
>The manager said, "Make a sentence using the
>
>words Yellow, Pink and Green."
>
>
>Mujibar thought for a few minutes and said,
>
>"Mister manager, I am ready"
>
>
>The manager said, "Go ahead."
>
>
>Mujibar said, "The telephone goes green, green,
>
>and I pink it up, and say, 'Yellow, this is Mujibar.'"
>
>
>
>Mujibar now works as a technician at a call
>
>center for computer problems.
>
>
>No doubt you have spoken to him. I have.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>   Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL.com
><http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour/?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000982> .
>
>
>
>
>          Naomi and Wes
>
>"Happiness is the sunshine of the soul"
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>Check out
><http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=51201/*http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html;_ylc
>=X3oDMTE5NWVzZGVyBF9TAzk3MTA3MDc2BHNlYwNtYWlsdGFncwRzbGsDYXV0b3MtbmV3Y2Fy>
>the hottest 2008 models today at Yahoo! Autos.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Enclosure(InternetExplorerdocument).jpg]

From hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk  Sat Sep 15 08:23:16 2007
From: hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk (mike brooks)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 07:23:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Voltage Regulator Problems
Message-ID: <308285.3444.qm@web34209.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Rich,

Time to get the multimeter out! I just went down to look at my BN2 with
the circuit diagram and put thinking cap on. The charging lamp is a 12volt
bulb, so it should be good for up to about 13 or 14volts before it blows
(roughly). So full charging voltage on the lamp may well blow it. From your
symptoms, you are seeing the increasing voltage from the generator on one side
of the lamp (wire 25, regulator terminal D and generator D) but not the
battery voltage (wire 9 from fuse) on the other. In fact to get the full
charging voltage on the lamp you must have the battery side of the lamp
grounded rather than connected via wire 9 to the battery via the fuse. I would
check the wiring first and then check voltages:-

1. Generator side of lamp to
ground (should be anything from a little under 12 volts at idle up to
regulated voltage (mine's about 13.5) as the revs increase)).
2. Battery side
of lamp to ground (obviously should be battery voltage).

I wonder if the
battery side of the lamp has been grounded at the tachometer?

Hope that helps
Mike Brooks
BN2
Milano, Italy

Rich C wrote:

>Hello all,
>
>I have a BN2 here
with a freshly rebuilt generator and a new RB106 regulator.
>Both have been
bench tested and the regulator contacts cleaned and dressed,
>and the
regulator bench set by my rebuilder. Everything has been polarized for
>Positive earth.
>
>I installed all the above into the car and started the
engine. The generator
>is charging properly. The ignition light will not go
out, but in fact as the
>revs are increased, the charging indicator light
glows brighter until it burns
>out!
>
>What is happening here? Everything
worked fine on the bench under varying
>loads. I'm rather gun shy of monkeying
with the regulator as once upon a time
>I caused an instant and nasty harness
melt down.
>
>Rich Chrysler

From mlempert at bellsouth.net  Sat Sep 15 08:49:45 2007
From: mlempert at bellsouth.net (M Lempert)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 10:49:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Digest Problems
Message-ID: <001201c7f7a7$a8a31e50$6001a8c0@DadsPC>

I'm wondering if anyone else out there is having problems with the digest 
version of this list.  Just recently it has been behaving differently. I 
notice when scrolling through the messages it scrolls slowly - the lines 
need a little time to catch up with the scroll action.  But most troubling 
is that my Outlook Express will only allow so much scrolling through the 
digest when it runs out of memory. It can't be cleared up by refreshing 
Outlook; it requires a re-boot of the system in order to get Outlook working 
again.  This only happens with the digest message.  Additionally, I received 
one recent digest issue with the message:
 "This message has been processed by Symantec's AntiVirus Technology.

Unknown00000000.data was not scanned for viruses because too many nested 
levels of files were found."

I don't use Symantec, so it must have come from an ISP server along the way. 
Anyone else experiencing this problem ?  I have copied the list manager on 
this email.

Regards,
Mike Lempert

From wericars at aol.com  Sat Sep 15 09:37:24 2007
From: wericars at aol.com (wericars at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 11:37:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Front Grill - top mounting holes
Message-ID: <8C9C5C572DC66F0-B40-3D93@WEBMAIL-MB02.sysops.aol.com>

Dear list, would one of you please confirm or correct me.? I have a 3000 MK III with the 3 piece grill.? Lets call the pieces The elipse, the oval and the slats.?The elipse has nuts welded into it.? The oval and the slats stack behind the elipse and have tabs that?mounting studs pass through and thread into the welded nuts in the elipse.? These studs also pass through the corresponding holes in the shroud and then nuts and washers?secure the grill in place.? Anyway here is my question:? Do?both sets?of tabs on the top edge of the?oval-slat assembly align?in front of?the corresponding tabs/holes on the shroud, or do the shroud tabs "sandwich" between the tabs on the grill.? The manual just tells you to remove the studs and then remove the grill without any instruction on the order of assembly.

Sorry if this isn't clear.? I'll be happy to clarify anything.

Thanks


Bill
Boston area
65 BJ8

________________________________________________________________________
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From AH at jharper.demon.co.uk  Sat Sep 15 10:04:11 2007
From: AH at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 17:04:11 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Voltage Regulator Problems
In-Reply-To: <042b01c7f713$992fe280$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>
References: <03d901c7f6ec$a3de2d30$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>
	<eyaVR5MMXv6GFwiv@jharper.demon.co.uk>
	<042b01c7f713$992fe280$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>
Message-ID: <fuGVWGB7JA7GFwbC@jharper.demon.co.uk>

Rich

I find it hard to get away from the fact that your generator is 
producing voltage in the opposite polarity to the battery. Perhaps you 
have a generator that stubbornly resists having its polarity reversed.

I assume that you are using a 12 volt indicator lamp and that this is 
corrected wired and that no earths are missing.

If so, may I suggest a simple experiment but this will entail using a 
test meter capable of reading up to 12 volts and with a clear indication 
of polarity.

Disconnect both leads to the generator. Have a wire connected to the non 
chassis side of the battery ready to connect to the generator 'F' 
terminal.

Connect your meter to the chassis and the other side to the battery and 
note the polarity. Then transfer this meter lead to the generator 'D' 
terminal.

Now connect the flying wire to the 'F' terminal and start the engine but 
DON'T rev up. There might be a slight spark when you connect this lead 
but don't worry. All you are doing here is creating a field current in 
the generator in the correct polarity ready for the generator to produce 
current when it starts turning.

Slowly increase the engine revs and watch the meter. It should rise 
slowly but most important in the same polarity as the earlier battery 
reading. If the polarity is the same slowly increase the engine revs 
until you get somewhere between 12 volts and 15 volts. DON'T take it any 
higher as this might damage the generator.

If this all works as hoped the generator will now be producing the 
correct polarity and with luck will now charge correctly when all the 
original leads are reconnected.

Regards



>I have done exactly that, polarizing as you describe. No change.

-- 
John Harper

From ahbn6 at optonline.net  Sat Sep 15 10:21:21 2007
From: ahbn6 at optonline.net (John Sims)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 12:21:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Lines
Message-ID: <000301c7f7b4$744dd3e0$6500a8c0@simsoffice>

Is there any reason why Teflon tape should or should not be used on brake
lines?

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com
 

From fortee9er at yahoo.com  Sat Sep 15 11:24:14 2007
From: fortee9er at yahoo.com (Jorge Garcia)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 10:24:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Speedo question
Message-ID: <536441.96185.qm@web54501.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

There is something very wrong with the  speedo on my '65 BJ8. It is always inaccurate and it will even register speed when the car is standing still in neutral. I read some of the archived posts and the culprit was a speedo cable of the wrong length or lack of lubrication...etc. Registering speed while standing still in neutral seems odd to me. It also seems to run in tandem with the tach while idling in neutral. I don't bother looking at it while driving I just try to go slower than the rest of traffic.
  Does this sound like the speedo needs to be rebuild or could it be a problem with the speedo cable?
  Thanks in advance for your help.
  Jorge Garcia 

       
---------------------------------
Luggage? GPS? Comic books? 
Check out fitting  gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search.

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sat Sep 15 12:20:40 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 13:20:40 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Speedo question
References: <536441.96185.qm@web54501.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <028001c7f7c5$1fb78f90$6401a8c0@toshibauser>

Jorge, it it is bouncing around measuring speed while you are not moving 
that is indeed odd, if it is just stuck at a certain MPH and not moving not 
so odd.

Check the cable first, it is easier to work on, sometimes a washer between 
the cable and the guage (has to be just the right inside and outside 
diameter) helps these problems.

First thing I would do is when it is measuring speed when you are not 
moving--move the cable angle as it enters the housing a bit, this may show 
it is not coming in at a goood angle, also loosen the cable off of the guage 
a bit and see if it loosens up and  goes down on its own.

You can also drive the car on the road or on jack stands with the cable 
detached and see if it is turning smoothly or faster/slower.

Sometimes these issues can be worked out with cable routing/angles, or the 
washer trick or how tight/loose the attachments on both ends are, sometimes 
a new cable.

If it is the guage you will need more help than my modest talents can 
provide.

Greg Lemon
54 BN1 

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sat Sep 15 12:26:41 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 13:26:41 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Scuttle Shake
References: <d54.1368f1d6.341c8681@aol.com>
Message-ID: <028901c7f7c5$f64b3390$6401a8c0@toshibauser>

Bil Thanks for the pic (sent separately to a number of listers who asked), I 
am correct in reading your comments that the angle iron is attached around 
the inside of the tranny opening, not the panel that screws off?.

Greg Lemon
54 BN1 

From ourxke at hotmail.com  Sat Sep 15 12:46:46 2007
From: ourxke at hotmail.com (Ken Wignall)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 14:46:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] reflector brake light-NIFTY UPGRADE-
Message-ID: <BAY118-W247CBC2C6B2DBA8D5F1BC0D1BD0@phx.gbl>

I read about the upgrade a lister posted recently to use LED technology and
install  very high intensity bulbs, that last forever and never get hot, into
the rear reflectors of my 61 BT7. I also ordered the bayonet pigtailed sockets
along with them. Great idea except for one little glitch-They only work on
negative ground!  I hooked them up to my car 2 days ago to see how strong the
light is and 'no go'. I assumed they worked with both positive and negative
earth, and didn't try grounding to negative earth. I still want to use these
bulbs, especially after a fellow drivers' club member, with a Triumph, was
rear ended on a summer evening earlier this year while waiting for a light to
change. It was a 'hit and run' to boot and they never caught the culprit.  ANY
additional lighting back there is a real plus. So, I think it is time to
convert to negative earth (ground). I know I have to reverse the coil wires,
and change the polarity of the generator. Am I leaving anything out? I haven't
done a polarity reversal for some time now- can someone recite the procedure
for me? Thanks

Ken Wignall
_________________________________________________________________
Kick back and relax with hot games and cool activities at the Messenger Cafi.
http://www.cafemessenger.com?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_SeptWLtagline

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sat Sep 15 15:07:12 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (sbyers at ec.rr.com)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 17:07:12 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Lines
Message-ID: <3415079.909281189890432232.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web25-z02>

John, I have always used Teflon tape on threaded fittings.  It helps to seal and prevent leaks where needed, and it prevents the threads from corroding together and galling or binding and makes disassembly much easier the next time.  I've used Teflon tape on my Healey for almost 25 years and have never had a problem with it.  Even on flared fittings that don't need the tape to seal, it still helps to make disassembly easier.  As far as I can tell, the stuff is impervious to fuel and DOT 3/4 and DOT 5 silicone brake fluid.

Cons?  Maybe you would lose points in Concours if the tape shows.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
---- John Sims <ahbn6 at optonline.net> wrote: 
> Is there any reason why Teflon tape should or should not be used on brake
> lines?
> 
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>  
> www.healey6.com
>  
> _______________________________________________
> sbyers at ec.rr.com 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From Editorgary at aol.com  Sat Sep 15 15:09:13 2007
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 17:09:13 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 1, Issue 182
Message-ID: <d50.11c29738.341da3f9@aol.com>

In a message dated 9/14/07 10:25:40 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net 
writes:


> Thought about it, but there are just about as many people on the list who 
> have tried it and gone back to points as have tried it and think it's great.
> 
> 

I don't think that's true; used to be because during the first year of their 
manufacture for Healeys there was a high failure rate due to a bad bonding 
process between the control box and the base, but that was solved after that 
according to an interview I did with them several years ago for British Car 
Magazine.
So.... to confirm this, would anyone who has installed a Pertronix in the 
past, say, three years and had it operate all right upon initial installation but 
then fail later please report that to the list?
Thanks
Gary
(No commercial interest, but I hate to see a good product continue to get a 
bad rap due to an initial problem that the maker has resolved.)




**************************************
 See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sat Sep 15 15:22:45 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (sbyers at ec.rr.com)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 17:22:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 1, Issue 182
Message-ID: <32093617.909561189891366063.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web25-z02>

Gary -
Since that's my quote you used, let me say that I was not knocking Pertronix.  I was just saying that my experience on the list over more than 10 years is that everytime this topic has come up, about half (49.2% to be exact) of the responses are very favorable and half (50.8%) are not (or maybe it was the other way around).  I'm waiting for more of a consensus before I spend the money to install a Pertronix on my car.

I hope Pertronix has fixed whatever problems they might have had, and that your survey will produce positive results to show that the consensus is now heavily on the favorable side.  If so, I'll be the next in line to get one.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

---- Editorgary at aol.com wrote: 
> In a message dated 9/14/07 10:25:40 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net 
> writes:
> 
> 
> > Thought about it, but there are just about as many people on the list who 
> > have tried it and gone back to points as have tried it and think it's great.
> > 
> > 
> 
> I don't think that's true; used to be because during the first year of their 
> manufacture for Healeys there was a high failure rate due to a bad bonding 
> process between the control box and the base, but that was solved after that 
> according to an interview I did with them several years ago for British Car 
> Magazine.
> So.... to confirm this, would anyone who has installed a Pertronix in the 
> past, say, three years and had it operate all right upon initial installation but 
> then fail later please report that to the list?
> Thanks
> Gary
> (No commercial interest, but I hate to see a good product continue to get a 
> bad rap due to an initial problem that the maker has resolved.)

From pennell at cox.net  Sat Sep 15 16:32:13 2007
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 18:32:13 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Scuttle Shake
Message-ID: <26210422.1189895533593.JavaMail.root@eastrmwml01.mgt.cox.net>

Greg,

I did this mod to my BN7 during resto.  Came up with the idea then heard that Bill had done it earlier.  Oh well . ........... great minds run in the same gutter.  That mod along with balancing the brake drums makes her silky smooth.  Strongly recommend both.

One note.  You will need to grind out a small area in the angle iron maybe 1/2 x 3/4 long to clear the starter solenoid.  Also two small notches on the horizontal piece to clear the brackets for mounting the cross shaft for throttle linkage.

Additionally I would suggest you add some welds to the firewall structure around the tranny.  If I recall the welds were every 3-4 inches across the top and down the side.  I would have them every inch or so.

Keith Pennell

> Bil Thanks for the pic (sent separately to a number of listers who asked), I 
> am correct in reading your comments that the angle iron is attached around 
> the inside of the tranny opening, not the panel that screws off?.
> 
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Sat Sep 15 16:56:35 2007
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 22:56:35 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Lines
In-Reply-To: <000301c7f7b4$744dd3e0$6500a8c0@simsoffice>
Message-ID: <BAY108-F27E3D56DB2E199891F6FFEC0BD0@phx.gbl>

In all my years, I have never seen or heard of anybody, any brake shop, or 
any manufacturer that has ever used teflon tape on brake lines, therefore, I 
would not do it. Richard Mayor


>From: John Sims <ahbn6 at optonline.net>
>To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
>Subject: [Healeys] Brake Lines
>Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 12:21:21 -0400
>
>Is there any reason why Teflon tape should or should not be used on brake
>lines?
>
>John Sims, BN6
>Aberdeen, NJ
>
>www.healey6.com
>
>_______________________________________________
>mayorrichard at hotmail.com
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

_________________________________________________________________
Test your celebrity IQ.  Play Red Carpet Reveal and earn great prizes! 
http://club.live.com/red_carpet_reveal.aspx?icid=redcarpet_hotmailtextlink2

From bn1 at pacbell.net  Sat Sep 15 16:59:45 2007
From: bn1 at pacbell.net (Bill)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 15:59:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Neopreme lubricant.
Message-ID: <46EC63E1.6000703@pacbell.net>

Listers,

When replacing the rubber front suspension bushings with the neoprene, 
should a lubricant be used, or should they be left dry.  If lubricated, 
what type should be used?   Squeaks?

Thanks for your help,

Bill Barnett
Santa Ana, CA
'53 BN1 #663

From Wilkmanracing at aol.com  Sat Sep 15 17:10:49 2007
From: Wilkmanracing at aol.com (Wilkmanracing at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 19:10:49 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Metal Worker Recommendation
Message-ID: <bcf.1cf93e22.341dc079@aol.com>

Hello All.
 
I'm new to the list.  I have a 1961 BT7 that I am in the process of  taking 
down to bare metal in preparation for a new paint job. The front  area around 
the grille has some body damage and some poorly done repairs that  have 
stretched the aluminum around one of the headlight surrounds.  I live  in Riverside, 
CA, about 60 miles east of Los Angeles.  Can anyone recommend  a metal worker 
who is good with Healey aluminum?  I also have a future  project in the form 
of an Austin A40 Sports that will also need aluminum body  work, so I'm hoping 
to line up someone for both the current Healey and the  future Sports projects.
 
Thanks in advance.
 
Bill Wilkman
Riverside, CA



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From wericars at aol.com  Sat Sep 15 18:03:08 2007
From: wericars at aol.com (wericars at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 20:03:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Lines
In-Reply-To: <000301c7f7b4$744dd3e0$6500a8c0@simsoffice>
References: <000301c7f7b4$744dd3e0$6500a8c0@simsoffice>
Message-ID: <8C9C60C194EDC06-B40-4A33@WEBMAIL-MB02.sysops.aol.com>

At the very least, tape on the threads of the brake line fittings is unnecessary.? the threads ot seal the brake lines, the flare at the end of the line is supposed to crush into the seat of the union or hydraulic component and create a tight seal.



At the worse, the tape is creating friction that may prevent you from?transferring?the full crush force of the nut onto the flare.? The tape could also mask a poor seal for a period of time.



Bill
Boston area
65 BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: John Sims <ahbn6 at optonline.net>
To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 12:21 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Lines



Is there any reason why Teflon tape should or should not be used on brake
lines?

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com
 
_______________________________________________
wericars at aol.com 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net  Sat Sep 15 18:17:40 2007
From: mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net (Mark and Kathy)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 20:17:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Scuttle Shake
References: <26210422.1189895533593.JavaMail.root@eastrmwml01.mgt.cox.net>
Message-ID: <001901c7f7f7$104ec910$e0cfe004@markl946cfrd7q>

My solenoid hole was also partially covered after I had this mod done.
I guess it all has to do with the actual size of the angle iron that one 
decides to use.   After painting over the mod its really hard to tell its 
been done.

Of course I'm sure its a  1000 point deduction in concuss events.

Mark

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <pennell at cox.net>
To: <38derby at suscom-maine.net>; <TRICARB at aol.com>; "Greg Lemon" 
<glemon at neb.rr.com>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2007 6:32 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Scuttle Shake


> Greg,
>
> I did this mod to my BN7 during resto.  Came up with the idea then heard 
> that Bill had done it earlier.  Oh well . ........... great minds run in 
> the same gutter.  That mod along with balancing the brake drums makes her 
> silky smooth.  Strongly recommend both.
>
> One note.  You will need to grind out a small area in the angle iron maybe 
> 1/2 x 3/4 long to clear the starter solenoid.  Also two small notches on 
> the horizontal piece to clear the brackets for mounting the cross shaft 
> for throttle linkage.
>
> Additionally I would suggest you add some welds to the firewall structure 
> around the tranny.  If I recall the welds were every 3-4 inches across the 
> top and down the side.  I would have them every inch or so.
>
> Keith Pennell
>
>> Bil Thanks for the pic (sent separately to a number of listers who 
>> asked), I
>> am correct in reading your comments that the angle iron is attached 
>> around
>> the inside of the tranny opening, not the panel that screws off?.
>>
>> Greg Lemon
>> 54 BN1
> _______________________________________________
> mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From alexmm at roadrunner.com  Sat Sep 15 18:34:13 2007
From: alexmm at roadrunner.com (Alex)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 20:34:13 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] reflector brake light-NIFTY UPGRADE-
References: <BAY118-W247CBC2C6B2DBA8D5F1BC0D1BD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <003a01c7f7f9$4e58d370$6b02a8c0@atc0f226cd3237>

Ken, LEDs will work with your positive ground car, as long as they're 
isolated from the chassis, and / or the cathode of the diode is attached to 
the negative side of the system (-12-V). If your LED assembly has two leads 
coming from it, connect the cathode to -12-V and attach the anode lead to 
ground (+).

Otherwise, you may have to modify the housing if the design already has the 
leads attached. That assumes you can get to the wires in your housing. I 
suspect you can.

Also, there should be a series-limiting resistor in the LED assembly, to 
prevent too much current from flowing. this may already be built into your 
kit.

Single LEDs operate at about 2-V, so the resistor must drop roughly 12-V. 
The value of the resistor is determined by how much current the LED draws 
(from its spec sheet). Using Ohm's Law, R = E/I, where E is voltage and I is 
current.

For example, say your LED draws 20-mA (0.02-Amperes). If you need to drop 
10-V, R = E / I = 10 / 0.02 = 500 ohms.

The power is found by P = I x E, so 0.02 x 10 = 200-milliwatts. That means a 
half-watt carbon 470-ohm resistor is all that's needed in series with the 
LED. It's color code would be yellow-violet-brown.

 I have LEDs installed on my positive ground MG-TC this way. Two LEDs serve 
as running lights (series resistors keep them dimmer than my brake light 
LEDs, which have lower-value series-resistors, and are therefore brighter).

My LEDs are arrays of more than one diode, so I had to calculate my series 
resistors based on the current spec of the array.

== Alex in Maine
     "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7
     "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321
     Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8,
     1965 MG Midget
     http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ken Wignall" <ourxke at hotmail.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2007 2:46 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] reflector brake light-NIFTY UPGRADE-


>I read about the upgrade a lister posted recently to use LED technology and
> install  very high intensity bulbs, that last forever and never get hot, 
> into
> the rear reflectors of my 61 BT7. I also ordered the bayonet pigtailed 
> sockets
> along with them. Great idea except for one little glitch-They only work on
> negative ground!  ................... 

From serraodan at gmail.com  Sat Sep 15 19:45:10 2007
From: serraodan at gmail.com (Dan Serrao)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 18:45:10 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Hot Air Outlet
Message-ID: <13f928820709151845q36d45978p539d4a6c29b002e1@mail.gmail.com>

I am refinishing the Mask-Hot Air Outlets on the dash top. When stripping
the paint, one had all black and the other black on top and blue underneath,
the interior is blue. Can someone tell me the correct color for these??
Thanks to all.

Dan Serrao
1963 BJ7

From shop at justbrits.com  Sat Sep 15 20:05:24 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 21:05:24 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Hot Air Outlet
References: <13f928820709151845q36d45978p539d4a6c29b002e1@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <008201c7f806$0bd6b0a0$6601a8c0@actualshop>

What does your BMIHT Cert. say your car's colour is, Dan??

From awgertoo at aol.com  Sat Sep 15 20:19:51 2007
From: awgertoo at aol.com (awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 22:19:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Targa Newfoundland finale
Message-ID: <8C9C61F3264224E-BCC-4C19@MBLK-M36.sysops.aol.com>

In addition to a class win we, along with?"Brick and Brute" team members Richard Patterson and?Tony Mattason?in the Mini "Betty", also received the "Spirit of Targa" award given?for (paraphrased) "overcoming the most?obstacles and successfully completing the event."? 

We drove almost 2500 kilometers over the five days, about 20% of which was during the competitive Targa stages.?As anyone who has?driven the small roads of Newfoundland?knows,?making it through these sections in an Austin-Healey is a challenge--a testament to both the toughness of our cars and the determination of our team and crew.

I'm flying home tomorrow?for some well-earned rest.? Thanks to all for the kind notes of interest and support.

Best--Michael Oritt
________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From loftusdesign at cox.net  Sat Sep 15 21:19:48 2007
From: loftusdesign at cox.net (John Loftus)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 20:19:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Lines
Message-ID: <46ECA0D4.5030404@cox.net>

John,

Not really an answer to your question but might have some relevance:

When I bought my pre-formed zinc plated steel brake lines from Doug Reid (Mr. Finespanner.)) the instructions said you can use a small amount of anti-seize paste on the threads and conical fitting surfaces. This should keep the parts from 'cold welding' together if you ever have to dis-assemble them. 

Cheers,
John

Is there any reason why Teflon tape should or should not be used on brake
lines?

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Sat Sep 15 21:23:44 2007
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (James  Shope)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 20:23:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] wheel, again
Message-ID: <00c601c7f810$fd1ba100$5201a8c0@Jim>

i have decided to give up for a while on finding the wheels i want.  a few
listers stated that they had sets of the original wheels.  do not remember
who, but if you have the original pressed wheels, and you want to sell them,
let me know condition and price.   healeymanjim

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Sat Sep 15 22:41:56 2007
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Leonard  Hartnett)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 21:41:56 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 1, Issue 182
In-Reply-To: <32093617.909561189891366063.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web25-z02>
References: <32093617.909561189891366063.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web25-z02>
Message-ID: <BF2C6F67F7A248D89D60E70FFAE2AC83@LeonardPC>

Steve:  Not what Gary is looking for but for your information, I installed 
my Pertronix in July, 2000.  I have driven approximately 27,000 miles since 
then.  It has not missed a beat and I am very happy with it.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville,  California,  USA
1967 3000 MKIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2007 2:22 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 1, Issue 182


> Gary -
> Since that's my quote you used, let me say that I was not knocking 
> Pertronix.  I was just saying that my experience on the list over more 
> than 10 years is that everytime this topic has come up, about half (49.2% 
> to be exact) of the responses are very favorable and half (50.8%) are not 
> (or maybe it was the other way around).  I'm waiting for more of a 
> consensus before I spend the money to install a Pertronix on my car.
>
> I hope Pertronix has fixed whatever problems they might have had, and that 
> your survey will produce positive results to show that the consensus is 
> now heavily on the favorable side.  If so, I'll be the next in line to get 
> one.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
> ---- Editorgary at aol.com wrote:
>> In a message dated 9/14/07 10:25:40 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
>> writes:
>>
>>
>> > Thought about it, but there are just about as many people on the list 
>> > who
>> > have tried it and gone back to points as have tried it and think it's 
>> > great.
>> >
>> >
>>
>> I don't think that's true; used to be because during the first year of 
>> their
>> manufacture for Healeys there was a high failure rate due to a bad 
>> bonding
>> process between the control box and the base, but that was solved after 
>> that
>> according to an interview I did with them several years ago for British 
>> Car
>> Magazine.
>> So.... to confirm this, would anyone who has installed a Pertronix in the
>> past, say, three years and had it operate all right upon initial 
>> installation but
>> then fail later please report that to the list?
>> Thanks
>> Gary
>> (No commercial interest, but I hate to see a good product continue to get 
>> a
>> bad rap due to an initial problem that the maker has resolved.)
> _______________________________________________
> thehartnetts at earthlink.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sun Sep 16 06:18:17 2007
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 08:18:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Hot Air Outlet
References: <13f928820709151845q36d45978p539d4a6c29b002e1@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <055701c7f85b$a9be1e70$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>

Dan

If your BJ7 interior is dark blue then the vent masks should be a very dark 
blue, darker then the blue vinyl.

Rich Chrysler
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dan Serrao" <serraodan at gmail.com>
To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2007 9:45 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Hot Air Outlet


>I am refinishing the Mask-Hot Air Outlets on the dash top. When stripping
> the paint, one had all black and the other black on top and blue 
> underneath,
> the interior is blue. Can someone tell me the correct color for these??
> Thanks to all.
>
> Dan Serrao
> 1963 BJ7
> _______________________________________________
> richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From linwoodrose at mac.com  Sun Sep 16 07:39:59 2007
From: linwoodrose at mac.com (linwood rose)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 09:39:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 rear shroud boot armacord
Message-ID: <29C60AAD-C21D-4283-A297-398B9132E64C@mac.com>

Hello all,
This is the piece of Aramacord that installs against the inside rear  
shroud in the boot. Does the unfinished edge go down against the  
floor (to the fuel tank) or does the unfinished edge install to the  
top under the lip of the boot opening? BT7.

Thanks,
Lin

http://gallery.mac.com/linwoodrose#100043/ 
Rear-20shroud-20armacord&bgcolor=black

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Sep 16 07:56:38 2007
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 09:56:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Sprite Registry
Message-ID: <20070916.095639.2420.1.dwflagg@juno.com>

Does anyone have an e-mail address for Rick Moses? Thanks.

Doug

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Sun Sep 16 08:08:46 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 10:08:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Scuttle Shake
Message-ID: <380-22007901614846437@earthlink.net>

Very correct on brake drum balance.  I also did that on my BJ8.  I still
have a very slight "shake" but I need to replace the wheels---they are old
and not true.




> [Original Message]
> From: <pennell at cox.net>
> To: <38derby at suscom-maine.net>; <TRICARB at aol.com>; Greg Lemon
<glemon at neb.rr.com>
> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 9/15/2007 6:32:35 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Scuttle Shake
>
> Greg,
>
> I did this mod to my BN7 during resto.  Came up with the idea then heard
that Bill had done it earlier.  Oh well . ........... great minds run in
the same gutter.  That mod along with balancing the brake drums makes her
silky smooth.  Strongly recommend both.
>
> One note.  You will need to grind out a small area in the angle iron
maybe 1/2 x 3/4 long to clear the starter solenoid.  Also two small notches
on the horizontal piece to clear the brackets for mounting the cross shaft
for throttle linkage.
>
> Additionally I would suggest you add some welds to the firewall structure
around the tranny.  If I recall the welds were every 3-4 inches across the
top and down the side.  I would have them every inch or so.
>
> Keith Pennell
>
> > Bil Thanks for the pic (sent separately to a number of listers who
asked), I 
> > am correct in reading your comments that the angle iron is attached
around 
> > the inside of the tranny opening, not the panel that screws off?.
> > 
> > Greg Lemon
> > 54 BN1
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From helyjohn at cablespeed.com  Sun Sep 16 12:06:05 2007
From: helyjohn at cablespeed.com (John Snyder)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 10:06:05 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] State Smog Laws
References: <c35.1ce86ce2.341c29e4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000e01c7f88c$409e1400$f030eb42@FRED>

B/4 We bought our property in Port Townsend, WA, I went to a local service 
station, and asked if they did Smog Tests (we were moving from California, 
and had 3 3000s and a hopped up Ford pick-up that I had to take a lot of 
stuff off to pass the CA smog test)).  They said "What's that?"   This is my 
kind of town.  :-)  I think the Seattle area has testing, but don't know 
anything about it.

John Snyder

From wericars at aol.com  Sun Sep 16 12:29:20 2007
From: wericars at aol.com (wericars at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 14:29:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Grill assembly order, second request
Message-ID: <8C9C6A6A1E2EF5C-C4-5A9B@FWM-M29.sysops.aol.com>

Hi list, this is a secoond request on the subject.? Can anyone tell me the order of assembly and attachment?of the three parts of the radiator grill to the shroud?? Do they all stack in front of the shroud, or do the slats stack behind the shroud?

Sorry to repeat the question.

Thanks for your time.


Bill
Boston area
65 BJ8

________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From wericars at aol.com  Sun Sep 16 12:43:34 2007
From: wericars at aol.com (wericars at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 14:43:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator update
Message-ID: <8C9C6A89F27B2A4-C4-5AF4@FWM-M29.sysops.aol.com>

For those with the problem I had with the trafficator assembly "following" the steering wheel to the left and right by about a half inch; after you have checked the tightness of the olive, try removing the entire traficator/stator tube assembly and check both the fit between stator tube and the tube extension on the trafficator (adjustable steering wheel cars) and the resistance needed to turn the base plate portion of the trafficator.? On my car, the grease that is supposed?to lubricate the base plate joint had dried up and required considerable torque to turn the the plate while holding the extension tube tight.? After removing the metal components from the bakelite I soaked the metal portion in a degreaser overnight and then cleaned the joint further with a spray can of carb cleaner.? This really freed up the assembly and when I reinstalled the assembly I had?reduced the "play" by about 50%.? I then removed the assembly again and used a vice to carefully squeeze the gap in the stator tube closed.? This gap had opened a bit with use.? I then reassembled these entire assembly and re-installed it (for like the 6th time) and the?trafficator is holding almost perfectly stationary in the center of the wheel.

Thanks to Rich Chrysler who told me to look at the stator tube.? Even though it looked perfect, on close examination it became apparent that there was some opening in the slot.


Bill
Boston area
65 BJ8

________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From coppifan at aol.com  Sun Sep 16 13:54:05 2007
From: coppifan at aol.com (coppifan at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 15:54:05 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Leather luggage belts
Message-ID: <bdf.1bcc304f.341ee3dd@aol.com>

Hi,
 
Where might I find leather belts to attach a wicker picnic basket to the  
rack on my "67 BJ8?
 
Thanks,
 
Will Eggert
Annapolis



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Sun Sep 16 16:23:38 2007
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 18:23:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Grill assembly order, second request
Message-ID: <a06200700c3135cc15f6a@[192.168.0.100]>

Hi Bill,

The slats are definately behind the shroud. It's the fighting from 
below the car to make everything line up with limited space that has 
given this job the distinction of being one of the least favourite in 
the Healey world.

Stephen, BJ8

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sun Sep 16 16:59:08 2007
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 18:59:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Grill assembly order, second request
References: <8C9C6A6A1E2EF5C-C4-5A9B@FWM-M29.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <05d601c7f8b5$307bb090$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>

Hi Bill,

The upper brow and oval attach in front of the shroud opening with the 
double ended studs with the hex nut surface halfway along the stud length. 
Then with these studs screwed into place, the slat assembly mounting tabs 
run onto the back side of the studs, held with flats, locks and nuts.
On the lower outboard ones, the lower mounting of the inner radiator 
shrouding panels and the steady legs from the outer splash shields also fit 
onto the studs, again held with flats, locks and nuts.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <wericars at aol.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2007 2:29 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Grill assembly order, second request


> Hi list, this is a secoond request on the subject.? Can anyone tell me the 
> order of assembly and attachment?of the three parts of the radiator grill 
> to the shroud?? Do they all stack in front of the shroud, or do the slats 
> stack behind the shroud?
>
> Sorry to repeat the question.
>
> Thanks for your time.
>
>
> Bill
> Boston area
> 65 BJ8
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - 
> http://mail.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From shop at justbrits.com  Sun Sep 16 18:21:25 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 19:21:25 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Assistance
References: <bdf.1bcc304f.341ee3dd@aol.com>
Message-ID: <026a01c7f8c0$af92ef00$6601a8c0@actualshop>

Folks:

I guess OFdom has set in but who is the List Member in Nova Scotia??  I have a
buddy that will be in New England and would like to do some touring in N.S.!

T.I.A.

Ed

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Sep 16 18:42:19 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 09:42:19 +0900
Subject: [Healeys] Neopreme lubricant.
In-Reply-To: <46EC63E1.6000703@pacbell.net>
References: <46EC63E1.6000703@pacbell.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709161742l7afc3064pc385a8d1caf16052@mail.gmail.com>

Bill -

You should only use neoprene bushings for the upper arm link.

You absolutely should not use neoprene bushings for the lower A arms
(unless they are soft style Noltec bushings) because the front and
rear lower A arm links are offset from each other and thus if you put
a firm bushing in here you will stress your mounts and pins.  Also
because of the stress your bushing lubricant will be forced out very
quickly and your suspension will sqeak.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On 9/16/07, Bill <bn1 at pacbell.net> wrote:
> Listers,
>
> When replacing the rubber front suspension bushings with the neoprene,
> should a lubricant be used, or should they be left dry.  If lubricated,
> what type should be used?   Squeaks?
>
> Thanks for your help,
>
> Bill Barnett
> Santa Ana, CA
> '53 BN1 #663
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From drberkowitz at hotmail.com  Sun Sep 16 19:49:47 2007
From: drberkowitz at hotmail.com (Leonard Berkowitz)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 21:49:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] MGA
Message-ID: <BAY138-W218DCA330F4FE257A44985B8BF0@phx.gbl>

I was driving on the LIE on Saturday 9-15 at about 4 PM and saw a White MGA.
I believe the license number was Cool MGA or something like that.  If any one
knows who owns it tell them it looked really nice but his front left wheel was
bouncing like crazy.  He may have an inoperable shock or something but it
should be looked into before we need to scrape this beauty off the side of the
road.
_________________________________________________________________
More photos; more messages; more whatever  Get MORE with Windows Live
Hotmail.. NOW with 5GB storage.
http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/?locale=en-us&ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration
_HM_mini_5G_0907

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Sun Sep 16 20:28:22 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 22:28:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Grill assembly order, second request
Message-ID: <380-22007911722822656@earthlink.net>

If you remove the radiator and bumper, it makes things much more pleasant.:)
tom 


> [Original Message]
> From: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 9/16/2007 6:23:57 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Grill assembly order, second request
>
> Hi Bill,
>
> The slats are definately behind the shroud. It's the fighting from 
> below the car to make everything line up with limited space that has 
> given this job the distinction of being one of the least favourite in 
> the Healey world.
>
> Stephen, BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From wericars at aol.com  Sun Sep 16 21:43:48 2007
From: wericars at aol.com (wericars at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 23:43:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Grill assembly order, second request
In-Reply-To: <380-22007911722822656@earthlink.net>
References: <380-22007911722822656@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <8C9C6F417391C18-EC0-6BB0@FWM-D19.sysops.aol.com>

This is a reassembly of a complete retoration, so I am doing a pretty good job following a logical order and keeping parts out of my own way.? But you post raises a good issue.? I think it would be great if a bunch of us got together and created a preffered "order of assembly" for people resoring their cars.


Bill
Boston area
65 BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
To: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com>; healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 10:28 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Grill assembly order, second request



If you remove the radiator and bumper, it makes things much more pleasant.:)
tom 


> [Original Message]
> From: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 9/16/2007 6:23:57 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Grill assembly order, second request
>
> Hi Bill,
>
> The slats are definately behind the shroud. It's the fighting from 
> below the car to make everything line up with limited space that has 
> given this job the distinction of being one of the least favourite in 
> the Healey world.
>
> Stephen, BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
_______________________________________________
wericars at aol.com 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Sep 16 23:12:53 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 13:12:53 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Lines
In-Reply-To: <000301c7f7b4$744dd3e0$6500a8c0@simsoffice>
References: <000301c7f7b4$744dd3e0$6500a8c0@simsoffice>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709162212g4c32a40bk24e5b4a64deaad0d@mail.gmail.com>

You should never use teflon tape on a brake line.  It could mask a
leak and result in brake failure.

Alan


On 9/16/07, John Sims <ahbn6 at optonline.net> wrote:
> Is there any reason why Teflon tape should or should not be used on brake
> lines?
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> www.healey6.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au  Sun Sep 16 23:48:35 2007
From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 15:48:35 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Esoteric Austin-Healey memorabilia
Message-ID: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C76C7457@itfexch5.central.det.win>

G'day

For the lovers of esoteric Austin-Healey memorabilia there is a bottle
of Rovalley Wines Cob Web Port currently on eBay at 200149731244.

Rovalley Wines are situated in South Australia and are(were) owned by
the Liebich family. This port was bottled especially for the 1982 (I
think) Australian National Rally that was held in Adelaide that year.
Two of the Liebich family were and still are Austin-Healey owners.

Each bottle was specially printed and does not have a label that can
deteriorate over time. Only 5000 bottles were laid down of which I
managed to spirit away 6. Over the years I have succumbed 5 times to
temptation but am determined to leave the last bottle unopened. I am not
connected to the auction.

An unopened bottle looks great in any collection of Healey and
Austin-Healey stuff.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
Lots of Healey and Austin-Healey stuff

**********************************************************************
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**********************************************************************

From mkgoodman at worldnet.att.net  Mon Sep 17 01:50:40 2007
From: mkgoodman at worldnet.att.net (Mark Goodman)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 03:50:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Petronix
Message-ID: <20070917075057.1B0611879DC@autox.team.net>

I have had the Petronix system on my BJ8 for over a year now and am very
happy with it.  One thing that has not been mentioned concerning it versus
the standard points is that it compensates for distributor shaft "wobble".
If the shaft has a wobble with the points, it effects the points opening
distance (gap) and therefore, the optimum performance of the engine.  Since
the Petronix System uses a magnetic field to turn on a hall effect sensor,
the wobble has no effect on the operation of the engine.  I carry the set of
points and the condenser that I took off as an emergency, but I can see no
reason why I will never go back to them.  The Petronix System is something
that you install and then forget about.  If you find that your engine will
not start or performs badly, you can eliminate the condenser and points as a
thing to look at.  With the past experiences I have had due to the rotor
shorting to the distributor shaft, I carry three TESTED spares.  Thank you
Petronix for supplying a good trouble free ignition system.  

 

Mark Goodman

66BJ8 35503

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Mon Sep 17 02:03:31 2007
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 10:03:31 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Voltage Regulator Problems
In-Reply-To: <03d901c7f6ec$a3de2d30$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>
References: <03d901c7f6ec$a3de2d30$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>
Message-ID: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750034804A9@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com>

Hello Rich,
I am little late with my reply to your generator/regulator problem, as I was
offline during the weekend. I had a similar problem, when I had rebuild the
generator of my BN1 some years ago. I did the rebuild by my own and I fitted
the four brushes 900 twisted, which caused the symtoms you describe. You can
check this, when you run the generator as a motor. You need to take the
generator out of the car and connect the D an F terminals together and connect
with a battery. The generator should run like a motor. But if you put the
brushes 900 wrong, then the pulley turns in the wrong direction, not like it
was driven by the engine when installed. You can change the polarity and it
still runs in the wrong direction. You get the right direction, when you move
the brushes 900. So just move the brushes to brush holders 900 back or forth.
Hope you understand what I want to say. Sorry, English is not my mother
tongue.
Cheers,

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/GERMANY

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Rich C [mailto:richchrysler at quickclic.net]
Gesendet: Freitag, 14. September 2007 18:31
An: Healeys
Betreff: [Healeys] Voltage Regulator Problems

Hello all,

I have a BN2 here with a freshly rebuilt generator and a new RB106 regulator.
Both have been bench tested and the regulator contacts cleaned and dressed,
and the regulator bench set by my rebuilder. Everything has been polarized for
Positive earth.

I installed all the above into the car and started the engine. The generator
is charging properly. The ignition light will not go out, but in fact as the
revs are increased, the charging indicator light glows brighter until it burns
out!

What is happening here? Everything worked fine on the bench under varying
loads. I'm rather gun shy of monkeying with the regulator as once upon a time
I caused an instant and nasty harness melt down.

Rich Chrysler
_______________________________________________
josef.eckert at t-systems.com

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Mon Sep 17 02:22:13 2007
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 10:22:13 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] WG:  Voltage Regulator Problems
Message-ID: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750034804B8@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com>

Hello Rich,
I am little late with my reply to your generator/regulator problem, as I was
offline during the weekend. I had a similar problem, when I had rebuild the
generator of my BN1 some years ago. I did the rebuild by my own and I fitted
the four brushes 900 twisted, which caused the symtoms you describe. You can
check this, when you run the generator as a motor. You need to take the
generator out of the car and connect the D an F terminals together and connect
with a battery. The generator should run like a motor. But if you put the
brushes 900 wrong, then the pulley turns in the wrong direction, not like it
was driven by the engine when installed. You can change the polarity and it
still runs in the wrong direction. You get the right direction, when you move
the brushes 900. So just move the brushes to brush holders 900 back or forth.
Hope you understand what I want to say. Sorry, English is not my mother
tongue.
Cheers,

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/GERMANY

From j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl  Mon Sep 17 03:42:55 2007
From: j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl (J.Aeckerlin)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 11:42:55 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Petronix
In-Reply-To: <20070917075057.1B0611879DC@autox.team.net>
References: <20070917075057.1B0611879DC@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <46EE4C1F.5010909@tiscali.nl>

Mark,
It's a pity that, when you were in Holland some years ago and we met, 
the 123Ignition unit wasn't available for our Healeys yet. The 123 has a 
beautiful metal housing, complete with drive shaft and drive dog, a 
Bosch distributor cap and a Bosch rotor. The only external connections 
(besides the plug and coil wires) are a red and a black thin wire, 
nothing else. You would have loved it! (And of course, because I'm 
Dutch, I'm a bit proud of this magnificent piece of electronics with 16 
different advance curves to choose from, automatic cut-off after 1 sec 
to prevent coil overheating and so on). Have a look at their site 
123ignition.nl (In English, with pictures and instruction manual telling 
you everything).
No financial interest bla bla, just a proud Dutch owner of a BJ8 with 
123 Ignition fitted.
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432

Mark Goodman schreef:
> I have had the Petronix system on my BJ8 for over a year now and am very
> happy with it.  One thing that has not been mentioned concerning it versus
> the standard points is that it compensates for distributor shaft "wobble".
> If the shaft has a wobble with the points, it effects the points opening
> distance (gap) and therefore, the optimum performance of the engine.  Since
> the Petronix System uses a magnetic field to turn on a hall effect sensor,
> the wobble has no effect on the operation of the engine.  I carry the set of
> points and the condenser that I took off as an emergency, but I can see no
> reason why I will never go back to them.  The Petronix System is something
> that you install and then forget about.  If you find that your engine will
> not start or performs badly, you can eliminate the condenser and points as a
> thing to look at.  With the past experiences I have had due to the rotor
> shorting to the distributor shaft, I carry three TESTED spares.  Thank you
> Petronix for supplying a good trouble free ignition system.  
>
>  
>
> Mark Goodman
>
> 66BJ8 35503

From mkgoodman at worldnet.att.net  Mon Sep 17 04:03:57 2007
From: mkgoodman at worldnet.att.net (Mark Goodman)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 06:03:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Petronix
In-Reply-To: <46EE4C1F.5010909@tiscali.nl>
Message-ID: <20070917100414.8EBEA1879BE@autox.team.net>

Dear Jack,

I am sorry that I did not email sooner, but I am so happy for you to finally
have your BJ8 running and on the road.  After seeing what you did to
accomplish that unbelievable task, you should be proud of all your hard work
and effort.  Most people would have left the rusted shell you started with
alone. You just jumped in and ended up with a beautiful Healey.  My hat is
off to your Herculean efforts.

I am sure that the 123 Ignition is wonderful, especially with the adjustable
performance curves. I am certainly happy with my Petronix.  I am going to
concentrate on the suspension this winter, and upgrade it, as my shocks are
for all practical purposes worthless.

Mark 

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Mon Sep 17 07:09:42 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 09:09:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Petronix
Message-ID: <380-22007911713942984@earthlink.net>

Ditto--------!!  I have carried a spare Pertronix around with me for the
last 6/7 years.  It will probably rust out before I ever need it.  I keep
telling people about the positives of this thing.  Some listen some don't. 
But--my cars have never ran so good since I installed it---and no more
messing with points.  

tom  


> [Original Message]
> From: Mark Goodman <mkgoodman at worldnet.att.net>
> To: Healeys at Autox. Team. Net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 9/17/2007 3:50:39 AM
> Subject: [Healeys] Petronix
>
> I have had the Petronix system on my BJ8 for over a year now and am very
> happy with it.  One thing that has not been mentioned concerning it versus
> the standard points is that it compensates for distributor shaft "wobble".
> If the shaft has a wobble with the points, it effects the points opening
> distance (gap) and therefore, the optimum performance of the engine. 
Since
> the Petronix System uses a magnetic field to turn on a hall effect sensor,
> the wobble has no effect on the operation of the engine.  I carry the set
of
> points and the condenser that I took off as an emergency, but I can see no
> reason why I will never go back to them.  The Petronix System is something
> that you install and then forget about.  If you find that your engine will
> not start or performs badly, you can eliminate the condenser and points
as a
> thing to look at.  With the past experiences I have had due to the rotor
> shorting to the distributor shaft, I carry three TESTED spares.  Thank you
> Petronix for supplying a good trouble free ignition system.  
>
>  
>
> Mark Goodman
>
> 66BJ8 35503
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From mkgoodman at worldnet.att.net  Mon Sep 17 07:24:45 2007
From: mkgoodman at worldnet.att.net (Mark Goodman)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 09:24:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Petronix
In-Reply-To: <380-22007911713942984@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <20070917132501.C95F4187B57@autox.team.net>

It is so easy to install and since there is nothing to adjust, it is trouble
free.  How many people on the list have had bad condensers or points that
left them stranded or had to be towed?  For less than $100, it is one of the
best things I have put on my BJ8.

Mark

-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Felts [mailto:tomfelts at earthlink.net] 
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 9:10 AM
To: Mark Goodman; Healeys at Autox. Team. Net
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Petronix

Ditto--------!!  I have carried a spare Pertronix around with me for the
last 6/7 years.  It will probably rust out before I ever need it.  I keep
telling people about the positives of this thing.  Some listen some don't. 
But--my cars have never ran so good since I installed it---and no more
messing with points.  

tom  


> [Original Message]
> From: Mark Goodman <mkgoodman at worldnet.att.net>
> To: Healeys at Autox. Team. Net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 9/17/2007 3:50:39 AM
> Subject: [Healeys] Petronix
>
> I have had the Petronix system on my BJ8 for over a year now and am very
> happy with it.  One thing that has not been mentioned concerning it versus
> the standard points is that it compensates for distributor shaft "wobble".
> If the shaft has a wobble with the points, it effects the points opening
> distance (gap) and therefore, the optimum performance of the engine. 
Since
> the Petronix System uses a magnetic field to turn on a hall effect sensor,
> the wobble has no effect on the operation of the engine.  I carry the set
of
> points and the condenser that I took off as an emergency, but I can see no
> reason why I will never go back to them.  The Petronix System is something
> that you install and then forget about.  If you find that your engine will
> not start or performs badly, you can eliminate the condenser and points
as a
> thing to look at.  With the past experiences I have had due to the rotor
> shorting to the distributor shaft, I carry three TESTED spares.  Thank you
> Petronix for supplying a good trouble free ignition system.  
>
>  
>
> Mark Goodman
>
> 66BJ8 35503
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From Kendall.Freese at aerojet.com  Mon Sep 17 08:16:19 2007
From: Kendall.Freese at aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 07:16:19 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Esoteric Austin-Healey memorabilia
In-Reply-To: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C76C7457@itfexch5.central.det.win>
References: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C76C7457@itfexch5.central.det.win>
Message-ID: <1B3BD9CCDD89084C9CC405C3258017F501ED3F4A@SACMAIL1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

Pat,
I got a bottle from EBAY a couple of years ago. It still tasted great.
I already had 3 bottles but they seemed to be opened everytime there was
somekind of a Healey celebration!
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

From don at anglesey.us  Mon Sep 17 08:53:45 2007
From: don at anglesey.us (Don )
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 08:53:45 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Petronix
In-Reply-To: <20070917132501.C95F4187B57@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <!~!UENERkVCMDkAAQACAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABgAAAAAAAAA0URZJ8mcIE6Bk2YxB8q6GMKAAAAQAAAA9Hk4YRV65USprsad+aYs7wEAAAAA@anglesey.us>

Just for the record I haven't found points too be that daunting.  I
carry an extra set as well as condenser and feeler gauge and have never
needed to use them.  At the most changing them out on the road takes
what 15 minutes.  I am still using the original points my Mallory
dual-point came with after replacing a wobbly worn out distributor that
a Petronix module wasn't going to fix.  I did have to replace the
condenser once due to a bad ground but other than that it has been 10
years of trouble free motoring.  Now if they could just make that 123
ignition for use in a positive ground car.
Don
57' BN4

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+don=anglesey.us at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+don=anglesey.us at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Mark Goodman
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 7:25 AM
To: tomfelts at earthlink.net
Cc: Healeys at Autox. Team. Net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Petronix

It is so easy to install and since there is nothing to adjust, it is
trouble
free.  How many people on the list have had bad condensers or points
that
left them stranded or had to be towed?  For less than $100, it is one of
the
best things I have put on my BJ8.

Mark

-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Felts [mailto:tomfelts at earthlink.net] 
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 9:10 AM
To: Mark Goodman; Healeys at Autox. Team. Net
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Petronix

Ditto--------!!  I have carried a spare Pertronix around with me for the
last 6/7 years.  It will probably rust out before I ever need it.  I
keep
telling people about the positives of this thing.  Some listen some
don't. 
But--my cars have never ran so good since I installed it---and no more
messing with points.  

tom  


> [Original Message]
> From: Mark Goodman <mkgoodman at worldnet.att.net>
> To: Healeys at Autox. Team. Net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 9/17/2007 3:50:39 AM
> Subject: [Healeys] Petronix
>
> I have had the Petronix system on my BJ8 for over a year now and am
very
> happy with it.  One thing that has not been mentioned concerning it
versus
> the standard points is that it compensates for distributor shaft
"wobble".
> If the shaft has a wobble with the points, it effects the points
opening
> distance (gap) and therefore, the optimum performance of the engine. 
Since
> the Petronix System uses a magnetic field to turn on a hall effect
sensor,
> the wobble has no effect on the operation of the engine.  I carry the
set
of
> points and the condenser that I took off as an emergency, but I can
see no
> reason why I will never go back to them.  The Petronix System is
something
> that you install and then forget about.  If you find that your engine
will
> not start or performs badly, you can eliminate the condenser and
points
as a
> thing to look at.  With the past experiences I have had due to the
rotor
> shorting to the distributor shaft, I carry three TESTED spares.  Thank
you
> Petronix for supplying a good trouble free ignition system.  
>
>  
>
> Mark Goodman
>
> 66BJ8 35503

From fortee9er at yahoo.com  Mon Sep 17 09:29:58 2007
From: fortee9er at yahoo.com (Jorge Garcia)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 08:29:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
Message-ID: <696634.52460.qm@web54501.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I need to replace the brake light switch on my BJ8 does anyone know if this part is available from NAPA or local auto part stores? The last one I bought from Moss but I'd like to have one today if possible.
  Thanks 
  Jorge Garcia
   

       
---------------------------------
Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows.
Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.

From fortee9er at yahoo.com  Mon Sep 17 09:35:21 2007
From: fortee9er at yahoo.com (Jorge Garcia)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 08:35:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Spin-on oil filter adapter
Message-ID: <679042.64766.qm@web54503.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I'd like to convert my BJ8 to use spin-on oil filters but I also would like to add an oil cooler in the near future. Can I get an adapter that would allow me to use the spin-on oil filter and block the oil line ports until I add the oil cooler?
  Thanks 
  Jorge Garcia

       
---------------------------------
Tonight's top picks. What will you watch tonight? Preview the hottest shows on Yahoo! TV.    

From rjh at hockertlaw.us  Mon Sep 17 09:37:11 2007
From: rjh at hockertlaw.us (rjhco)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 10:37:11 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <696634.52460.qm@web54501.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20070917153711.ZBJP23505.mta15.adelphia.net@RJHDESKTOP>

Jorge:

Check the thread pitch on the switch from NAPA.  I recall that it is not the
same as the Healey OEM threads.  

Best regards,
Jim

From JNBrashear at garverengineers.com  Mon Sep 17 09:51:27 2007
From: JNBrashear at garverengineers.com (Brashear, Jack, N)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 10:51:27 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Spin-on oil filter adapter
In-Reply-To: <679042.64766.qm@web54503.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2D0989D186D44349BE853EE6CFC87AE603569909@glitas07.garverinc.local>

Hi Jorge, I don't think you want to do that.  I have a Smitty spin-on
adapter and a Smitty oil cooler adapter that is sandwiched between the
block and the spin-on piece.  If I were to plug the oil hose ports, then
that would stop all oil flow.  My oil cooler piece diverts flow before
the inlet side of the filter, routes it thru the oil cooler radiator
hose first, then into back thru the other hose to the filter.  Maybe
there are others out there...???
Jack


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+jnbrashear=garverengineers.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+jnbrashear=garverengineers.com at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jorge Garcia
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 10:35 AM
To: Austin Healey
Subject: [Healeys] Spin-on oil filter adapter

I'd like to convert my BJ8 to use spin-on oil filters but I also would
like to add an oil cooler in the near future. Can I get an adapter that
would allow me to use the spin-on oil filter and block the oil line
ports until I add the oil cooler?
  Thanks
  Jorge Garcia

From davzu29 at cox.net  Mon Sep 17 10:00:43 2007
From: davzu29 at cox.net (David Z)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 12:00:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
References: <696634.52460.qm@web54501.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <002a01c7f943$e792ef80$6601a8c0@ORGANIZA79207D>

Jorge,

The last time I had to purchase one NAPA no longer had a listing for the 
part.  The ususal suppliers carry them, and there'yre pretty cheap.  I've 
never had very good luck with durability of the hydraulic switches thought, 
and ended up purchasing a mechanical one I mounted behind the brake pedal.
David Z.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jorge Garcia" <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
To: "Austin Healey" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 11:29 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch


>I need to replace the brake light switch on my BJ8 does anyone know if this 
>part is available from NAPA or local auto part stores? The last one I 
>bought from Moss but I'd like to have one today if possible.
>  Thanks
>  Jorge Garcia
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who 
> knows.
> Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
> 

-- 
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 80 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

From ricksnover at earthlink.net  Mon Sep 17 10:11:04 2007
From: ricksnover at earthlink.net (Rick Snover)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 09:11:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Conclave 2008 Update
Message-ID: <6.2.0.14.2.20070917091030.04f75ab0@pop.earthlink.net>

FYI -

>Subject: Conclave 2008 Update
>Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 11:08:48 -0400
>
>...the Conclave 2008 web site, http://www.austinhealeyconclave.com
>has been updated with the new Registration Form and Regalia Order Form.
>
>Ron Mitchell
>Web Master:  Conclave 2008
>www.austinhealeyconclave.com

--
Rick Snover
VP/Membership, Web Master & Newsletter Editor (Interim)
Austin Healey Club of San Diego <http://www.sdhealey.org>
Hosts of Healey Conclave 2008 <http://www.sdhealey.org/conclave08/> 

From fortee9er at yahoo.com  Mon Sep 17 10:24:37 2007
From: fortee9er at yahoo.com (Jorge Garcia)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 09:24:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Spin-on oil filter adapter
In-Reply-To: <2D0989D186D44349BE853EE6CFC87AE603569909@glitas07.garverinc.local>
Message-ID: <833228.86491.qm@web54506.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hi Jack,
   I should have asked "If I bought a spin-on adapter will I have to throw it away when I install an oil cooler?" From your response it sounds like two separate pieces and I can do the spin-on conversion now and add the oil cooler later and not have to dispose of the spin-on adapter.
  Please let me know if I that is correct.
  Thanks
  Jorge Garcia
  

"Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com> wrote:
  Hi Jorge, I don't think you want to do that. I have a Smitty spin-on
adapter and a Smitty oil cooler adapter that is sandwiched between the
block and the spin-on piece. If I were to plug the oil hose ports, then
that would stop all oil flow. My oil cooler piece diverts flow before
the inlet side of the filter, routes it thru the oil cooler radiator
hose first, then into back thru the other hose to the filter. Maybe
there are others out there...???
Jack


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+jnbrashear=garverengineers.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+jnbrashear=garverengineers.com at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jorge Garcia
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 10:35 AM
To: Austin Healey
Subject: [Healeys] Spin-on oil filter adapter

I'd like to convert my BJ8 to use spin-on oil filters but I also would
like to add an oil cooler in the near future. Can I get an adapter that
would allow me to use the spin-on oil filter and block the oil line
ports until I add the oil cooler?
Thanks 
Jorge Garcia


       
---------------------------------
Don't let your dream ride pass you by.    Make it a reality with Yahoo! Autos. 

From DON at MGDD.US  Mon Sep 17 11:02:04 2007
From: DON at MGDD.US (DONALD DIETRICH)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 13:02:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 for sale
Message-ID: <C3142B4C.59A9%DON@MGDD.US>

I have decided to put my restored Austin Healey BJ7 up for sale.  The car is
located in New Jersey just outside of Philadelphia.

Pictures can be seen at http://www.mgdd.us/healhome.html

The car comes with many extras including aftermarket hardtop and custom
designed tow bar.  Also many extra parts such as fuel pumps, clutches, and
more.

I can be contacted at don at mgdd.us

Please pass this along to any interested parties.

Asking price is $55,000.

Don Dietrich

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Mon Sep 17 11:22:41 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 12:22:41 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Pump Back Aup
Message-ID: <002801c7f94f$5b04c3c0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>

I am going to put my SU fuel pump, now rebuilt and ticking merrily away on 
the test bed I made, back on.

I currently have a facet newer style with the black plastic body. I think I 
may leave that pump in line with a switch to turn it on as a back up.  My 
only question is should I put it in between the SU pump and carbs, or SU 
pump and tank, only advantage I can think of is that if it is between pump 
and tank if the SU fails the  back-up will be primed, vs. it likely being 
dry if I were to put it in line after the SU.  Don't know if it is better to 
push or pull gas through the back up pump?  Or doesn't matter.

Any thoughts or advice appreciated.  I am also considering just throwing the 
spare in the trunk with some rubber hose so it can be installed if needed 
(usually when I have a spare in the trunk the old part suddenly becomes more 
reliable!)

Greg Lemon

From Editorgary at aol.com  Mon Sep 17 11:41:25 2007
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 13:41:25 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 1, Issue 187
Message-ID: <d0c.19a84a0e.34201645@aol.com>

In a message dated 9/17/07 10:25:15 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
writes:


> I am going to put my SU fuel pump, now rebuilt and ticking merrily away on
> the test bed I made, back on.
>
> I currently have a facet newer style with the black plastic body. I think I
> may leave that pump in line with a switch to turn it on as a back up.  My
> only question is should I put it in between the SU pump and carbs, or SU
> pump and tank, only advantage I can think of is that if it is between pump
> and tank if the SU fails the  back-up will be primed, vs. it likely being
> dry if I were to put it in line after the SU.  Don't know if it is better
to
> push or pull gas through the back up pump?  Or doesn't matter.
>
> Any thoughts or advice appreciated.  I am also considering just throwing
the
> spare in the trunk with some rubber hose so it can be installed if needed
> (usually when I have a spare in the trunk the old part suddenly becomes
more
> reliable!)
>
> Greg Lemon
>

Greg,
In the Sept/Oct issue of Austin-Healey Magazine now in the mail, we discuss
several different ways to fail-safe your fuel pump. The consensus
recommendation is that a second fuel pump, mounted IN PARALLEL with the main
fuel pump,
with a control switch, is the very best set-up. Our experts noted that while a
flow-through pump can be mounted in series with the SU pump, there are some
types of fuel pump failure where an inline pump won't work, so the
recommendation
was to make the one additional cut in the fuel line, and pipe in the
additional pump in parallel. There's very little difference in the
installation (same
wiring, same fasteners and mountings) and then you've averted one possible
type
of failure.)
Gary
Gary


**************************************
 See what's new at
http://www.aol.com

From aon.912808691 at aon.at  Mon Sep 17 11:47:10 2007
From: aon.912808691 at aon.at (Reinhart Rosner (aon))
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 19:47:10 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Petronix
In-Reply-To: <!~!UENERkVCMDkAAQACAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABgAAAAAAAAA0URZJ8mcIE6Bk2YxB8q6GMKAAAAQAAAA9Hk4YRV65USprsad+aYs7wEAAAAA@anglesey.us>
References: <20070917132501.C95F4187B57@autox.team.net>
	<!~!UENERkVCMDkAAQACAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABgAAAAAAAAA0URZJ8mcIE6Bk2YxB8q6GMKAAAAQAAAA9Hk4YRV65USprsad+aYs7wEAAAAA@anglesey.us>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAKiNhN3Os8FHqW69V0RD007CgAAAEAAAANHzdp7D8OBLnQY0IE5qnUMBAAAAAA==@aon.at>

I must be kind of oldfashioned as I rather would stay with points. My
mechanic always tries to convince me of that 123, but somewhere I have heard
that installation on a 100 is not that easy. Is it the hardware or the
setting or am I just wrong?

Reinhart Rosner
55 AH 100 BN 1
(negative ground)
Vienna - Austria

From AH at jharper.demon.co.uk  Mon Sep 17 12:36:20 2007
From: AH at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 19:36:20 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Voltage Regulator Problems
In-Reply-To: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750034804A9@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com>
References: <03d901c7f6ec$a3de2d30$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>
	<63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750034804A9@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com>
Message-ID: <5xhshrNkks7GFw$k@jharper.demon.co.uk>

Josef

I believe that you might be slightly wrong with the detail but it has 
led me to an idea. There are only two brushes and I cannot see how these 
could be fitted in any other way. However I can see that if the field 
coil is replaced it would be fairly easy to solder the two leads to the 
'F' post and the large tag to the body of the generator the wrong way 
around. As Rich says he has tried polarising many times and most likely 
the residual magnetism is now established BUT the wrong way round. 
Therefore the output at the 'D' terminal will be in the opposite 
polarity. Thus producing 12 Volt in opposite polarity to the battery and 
putting 24 volt on the indicator lamp and burning it out.

Rich - I this possible?

Regards


> when I had rebuild the
>generator of my BN1 some years ago. I did the rebuild by my own and I fitted
>the four brushes 900 twisted, which caused the symtoms you describe. You can
>check this, when you run the generator as a motor. You need to take the
>generator out of the car and connect the D an F terminals together and connect
>with a battery. The generator should run like a motor. But if you put the
>brushes 900 wrong, then the pulley turns in the wrong direction, not like it
>was driven by the engine when installed. You can change the polarity and it
>still runs in the wrong direction. You get the right direction, when you move
>the brushes 900. So just move the brushes to brush holders 900 back or forth.
-- 
John Harper

From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Mon Sep 17 13:35:47 2007
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 15:35:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] coil spring specs
Message-ID: <a0620070ac314867dc227@[192.168.0.100]>

Does anyone have a dimension for what the length of a non- compressed 
front coil spring should be?
There has been a lot of discussion about replacement of the rear leaf 
springs, but I don't often hear about a problem with the coils; 
still, I'd like to check and see if they remain within spec.

Stephen, BJ8

From mkgoodman at worldnet.att.net  Mon Sep 17 13:42:00 2007
From: mkgoodman at worldnet.att.net (Mark Goodman)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 15:42:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Facet fuel pump
Message-ID: <20070917194217.5B83E187A34@autox.team.net>

Dear Greg,

 

I would put the Facet pump between the tank and the SU, as you will not have
to modify the long fuel line between the SU and the Carbs.   I have not had
good luck with the Facet Pumps,  as I had one fail after two years when I
tried to use it as a backup and the replacement leaked externally after a
year.  Then I tried a new one and it did not work out of the box.   My SU
has been modified by David Dubois to use an enclosed magnetic activated reed
switch to switch a transistor and therefore should not be a problem.  I am
working with David to design an optical version that eliminates the swing
mechanism.   I carry a modified spare SU with me just in case it fails.  I
am now anal about carrying spares, as I have had to be towed more than once
in the past 5 years.

 

Mark 

 

Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 12:22:41 -0500

From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>

Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Pump Back Aup

To: <healeys at autox.team.net>

Message-ID: <002801c7f94f$5b04c3c0$6401a8c0 at toshibauser>

Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";

      reply-type=original

 

I am going to put my SU fuel pump, now rebuilt and ticking merrily away on 

the test bed I made, back on.

 

I currently have a facet newer style with the black plastic body. I think I 

may leave that pump in line with a switch to turn it on as a back up.  My 

only question is should I put it in between the SU pump and carbs, or SU 

pump and tank, only advantage I can think of is that if it is between pump 

and tank if the SU fails the  back-up will be primed, vs. it likely being 

dry if I were to put it in line after the SU.  Don't know if it is better to


push or pull gas through the back up pump?  Or doesn't matter.

 

Any thoughts or advice appreciated.  I am also considering just throwing the


spare in the trunk with some rubber hose so it can be installed if needed 

(usually when I have a spare in the trunk the old part suddenly becomes more


reliable!)

 

Greg Lemon

From pennell at cox.net  Mon Sep 17 13:49:48 2007
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 15:49:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel gauge sale-not Healey
Message-ID: <11670454.1190058588045.JavaMail.root@eastrmwml01.mgt.cox.net>

Listers,

I have a Smiths fuel gauge for sale.  Face is in excellent condition as is glass and chrome bezel.

It is black faced with no ID numbers on face.  The window for the needle is on the lower half of the face.  Not sure of its application - maybe for a MG, TR or some such?

Contact me if interested

Keith Pennell
23602

From conbreda at eircom.net  Mon Sep 17 14:48:45 2007
From: conbreda at eircom.net (Breda O'Sullivan)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 21:48:45 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Neopreme lubricant.
In-Reply-To: <46EC63E1.6000703@pacbell.net>
Message-ID: <001201c7f96c$2473edf0$6ca3869f@Breda>

Correct me please if I am wrong,
But when installing mine I used a little bit of washing up liquid to make it
easier for insertion, apart from that they should be dry, and I certainly
have no squeaks 5000 miles later.

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+conbreda=eircom.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+conbreda=eircom.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Bill
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2007 12:00 AM
To: Healey; Shop talk
Subject: [Healeys] Neopreme lubricant.

Listers,

When replacing the rubber front suspension bushings with the neoprene, 
should a lubricant be used, or should they be left dry.  If lubricated, 
what type should be used?   Squeaks?

Thanks for your help,

Bill Barnett
Santa Ana, CA
'53 BN1 #663
_______________________________________________
conbreda at eircom.net 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From rjh at hockertlaw.us  Mon Sep 17 15:02:47 2007
From: rjh at hockertlaw.us (rjhco)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 16:02:47 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] coil spring specs
In-Reply-To: <a0620070ac314867dc227@[192.168.0.100]>
Message-ID: <20070917210247.RMSV18315.mta11.adelphia.net@RJHDESKTOP>

Stephen:



Here are the specs that I measured on my original front coil springs when I
had them out of the car:



Category                            Thousands               Fractional



Wire Diameter:                      .6125                   39/64



Coil Inside Diameter:               3.625                   3 5/8



Coil Outside Diameter:              4.850                   4  27/32



Coil Mean Diameter:                 4.250                   4  <



Number of Coils                     8                       8



Number of active coils              6.5                     6.5



Finish Type:                        Flat Ground on both ends



Free Height:                        10.50                   10   =



Compressed Length:                  6.85                    6 27/32



Compressed Pressure:                1460 lbs/inch



Spring Rate:                        400 pounds per inch



Mechanical Advantage in car         2:1



Suspension Vertical Stiffness       200 pounds per inch

(Wheel Rate)



Suspension Natural Frequency        1.35 cycles per second for 2200 lb car







Best regards,

Jim Hockert

Dallas, TX

BJ8 Open Roads Rallye

From rusd at sitestar.net  Mon Sep 17 15:57:11 2007
From: rusd at sitestar.net (Dave Russell)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 15:57:11 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Petronix
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAKiNhN3Os8FHqW69V0RD007CgAAAEAAAANHzdp7D8OBLnQY0IE5qnUMBAAAAAA==@aon.at>
References: <20070917132501.C95F4187B57@autox.team.net>
	<!~!UENERkVCMDkAAQACAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABgAAAAAAAAA0URZJ8mcIE6Bk2YxB8q6GMKAAAAQAAAA9Hk4YRV65USprsad+aYs7wEAAAAA@anglesey.us>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAKiNhN3Os8FHqW69V0RD007CgAAAEAAAANHzdp7D8OBLnQY0IE5qnUMBAAAAAA==@aon.at>
Message-ID: <46EEF837.1020100@sitestar.net>

Reinhart,

The Hundred Four uses a very long drive shaft/gear. The replacement 
distributors that I  have seen come with a short shaft & drive dog.  
This dog must be replaced with the original type long drive shaft/gear.  
A cross pin needs to be pressed out, & sometimes a new hole needs to be 
drilled through the distributor shaft so that the pin can be installed 
through the original shaft. Some distributor builders use a different 
size pin & the holes must be matched accordingly. Also the shaft may 
require addition or removal of shims to adjust the distributor shaft end 
float. Not really easy, but it can be done.

If you are going to go to this trouble, it's worthwhile to check the 
condition of the drive gear itself & maybe replace if needed.

Regards,
Dave Russell
BN2

Reinhart Rosner (aon) wrote:

>I must be kind of oldfashioned as I rather would stay with points. My
>mechanic always tries to convince me of that 123, but somewhere I have heard
>that installation on a 100 is not that easy. Is it the hardware or the
>setting or am I just wrong?
>
>Reinhart Rosner
>55 AH 100 BN 1
>(negative ground)
>Vienna - Austria

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Mon Sep 17 18:06:58 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 19:06:58 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] SOS '07 Grillin' and Chillin'
Message-ID: <001501c7f987$d6fc0410$84f40c30$@com>

Yes indeed, it's that time again to begin the plans for SOS '07 "Grillin' &
Chillin'".

 

So far, we have a number of projects on tap..

 

We have 6 Spridgets to dismantle, strip, give away, or turn into a bench
vices you can buy at Harbor Freight next year.

 

Take the former "Gift Sprite", and turn it into a barbecue grill that Peter
the Parts Pimp can to the races with his Mini.

 

Help Kris Larsen do final assembly on his race car "Sta Puff".

 

Sandblast (or bead blast) numerous components. yours, mine, or stuff we pull
off of the aforementioned 6 Spridgets.

 

Any other projects you'd like to toss in the mix. suggestions welcome.

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Mon Sep 17 20:02:58 2007
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 02:02:58 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <696634.52460.qm@web54501.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BAY108-F24DC33471BE946BFCECD58C0B80@phx.gbl>

I few years back I went to my local auto parts store - not an import parts 
store. As a racer, I'm not concerned with concourse replacement parts. They 
have books which show a gazillion hyraulic brake line switches.  I saw a 
picture of one that looked right. It was an american product. The 
application was for some 1950's american iron and it was identical to the 
Healey brake light swith, right down to the proper threads. You would be 
surprised what you can buy for your Healey at an american parts store.  
Richard Mayor


>From: Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
>To: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
>Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
>Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 08:29:58 -0700 (PDT)
>
>I need to replace the brake light switch on my BJ8 does anyone know if this 
>part is available from NAPA or local auto part stores? The last one I 
>bought from Moss but I'd like to have one today if possible.
>   Thanks
>   Jorge Garcia
>
>
>
>---------------------------------
>Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows.
>Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
>_______________________________________________
>mayorrichard at hotmail.com
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

_________________________________________________________________
Kick back and relax with hot games and cool activities at the Messenger 
Cafi. http://www.cafemessenger.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_SeptHMtagline1

From insptwo at msn.com  Mon Sep 17 20:16:06 2007
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 22:16:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <BAY108-F24DC33471BE946BFCECD58C0B80@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAY106-F390339776F2CF72FC60BCCADB80@phx.gbl>

Richard:
I had the same thing happen when my overdrive toggle switch went. I went to 
a local auto parts store and they had the same identical switch for about 6 
bucks. The only difference was the back of the switch, the wiring had a 
slightly different configuration.
Bill
BJ7


>From: "richard mayor" <mayorrichard at hotmail.com>
>To: fortee9er at yahoo.com
>CC: healeys at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake light switch
>Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 02:02:58 +0000
>
>I few years back I went to my local auto parts store - not an import parts
>store. As a racer, I'm not concerned with concourse replacement parts. They
>have books which show a gazillion hyraulic brake line switches.  I saw a
>picture of one that looked right. It was an american product. The
>application was for some 1950's american iron and it was identical to the
>Healey brake light swith, right down to the proper threads. You would be
>surprised what you can buy for your Healey at an american parts store.
>Richard Mayor
>
>
> >From: Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
> >To: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
> >Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
> >Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 08:29:58 -0700 (PDT)
> >
> >I need to replace the brake light switch on my BJ8 does anyone know if 
>this
> >part is available from NAPA or local auto part stores? The last one I
> >bought from Moss but I'd like to have one today if possible.
> >   Thanks
> >   Jorge Garcia
> >
> >
> >
> >---------------------------------
> >Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who 
>knows.
> >Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
> >_______________________________________________
> >mayorrichard at hotmail.com
> >
> >Healeys at autox.team.net
> >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Kick back and relax with hot games and cool activities at the Messenger
>Cafi. http://www.cafemessenger.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_SeptHMtagline1
>_______________________________________________
>insptwo at msn.com
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Mon Sep 17 20:26:07 2007
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 02:26:07 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] coil spring specs
In-Reply-To: <a0620070ac314867dc227@[192.168.0.100]>
Message-ID: <BAY108-F2724CF87E93A1488B36D89C0B80@phx.gbl>

There are 3 different coil spring configurations in the 100-6 - 3000 models. 
The 100s are probably the same as 100-6 but I do not know that for sure. The 
100-6 and early 300's are one size and length. The MK IIs are different. And 
the BJ8 is another size. They all have different lengths, wire sizes and 
spring rates. What car are your asking about? OOPS, I just saw that you have 
a BJ8. I cannot tell you right now what the free length should be, as I sit 
here at my computer, but contact me offline. I have a couple of sets of BJ8 
coils. I will measure them for you. However, coil springs have never been a 
problem with our cars, and the BJ8 springs are the stiffest.  If they are 
the same length, or if neither side is sagging, why worry about it.  Richard 
Mayor



>From: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
>To: healeys at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Healeys] coil spring specs
>Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 15:35:47 -0400
>
>Does anyone have a dimension for what the length of a non- compressed
>front coil spring should be?
>There has been a lot of discussion about replacement of the rear leaf
>springs, but I don't often hear about a problem with the coils;
>still, I'd like to check and see if they remain within spec.
>
>Stephen, BJ8
>_______________________________________________
>mayorrichard at hotmail.com
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

_________________________________________________________________
Can you find the hidden words?  Take a break and play Seekadoo! 
http://club.live.com/seekadoo.aspx?icid=seek_hotmailtextlink1

From shop at justbrits.com  Mon Sep 17 20:49:57 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 21:49:57 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
References: <BAY106-F390339776F2CF72FC60BCCADB80@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <022901c7f99e$9b6cb450$6601a8c0@actualshop>

Not picking on a fellow BJ-7 person, BUT Bill...

<<the same identical switch for about 6 bucks. The only difference was the
back of the switch, the wiring had a slightly different configuration.>>

WHEN did the meaning of "identical" change??

And the voltage & ampere ratings were "identical"??

Enquiring minds NEED to know before all the smoke escapes!!!!

Ed

PS:  And that is exactly what you are begging for!!!
PPS:  But that's OK because I DO sell Wiring Harnesses<VBG>!!

From jodyfkerr at gmail.com  Mon Sep 17 21:35:20 2007
From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 20:35:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <022901c7f99e$9b6cb450$6601a8c0@actualshop>
References: <BAY106-F390339776F2CF72FC60BCCADB80@phx.gbl>
	<022901c7f99e$9b6cb450$6601a8c0@actualshop>
Message-ID: <471534970709172035g2a5fffb5ja63c071655a91f35@mail.gmail.com>

But that does beg the question of interchange.

I used to work on Sunbeam-Talbots and Hudsons. Some of the parts are
only available via "interchange." Occasionally it's "interchange +
bodging."

Is there an interchange listing for Healeys?

On 9/17/07, shop at justbrits.com <shop at justbrits.com> wrote:
> Not picking on a fellow BJ-7 person, BUT Bill...
>
> <<the same identical switch for about 6 bucks. The only difference was the
> back of the switch, the wiring had a slightly different configuration.>>
>
> WHEN did the meaning of "identical" change??
>
> And the voltage & ampere ratings were "identical"??
>
> Enquiring minds NEED to know before all the smoke escapes!!!!
>
> Ed
>
> PS:  And that is exactly what you are begging for!!!
> PPS:  But that's OK because I DO sell Wiring Harnesses<VBG>!!
> _______________________________________________
> jodyfkerr at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
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From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Mon Sep 17 21:48:12 2007
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 23:48:12 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Voltage Regulator Problems
References: <03d901c7f6ec$a3de2d30$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>
	<63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750034804A9@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com>
	<5xhshrNkks7GFw$k@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Message-ID: <006401c7f9a6$bcd40f50$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>

Today I removed both leads to the generator, joined the terminals with a 
short piece of wire, removed the fan belt to free the generator pulley, 
touched a wire from power (A1) to the bridged terminal wire and the 
generator motored properly in the correct direction (same as the engine 
turns) That confirms to me that the generator is okay, charging, and 
polarized correctly.
Next I'm going to remove all the leads from the regulator and with batteries 
disconnected, see if there is any continuity (other than the black wires) 
between any of the leads and earth. I'm wondering if something somewhere is 
crossed and or contacting earth.
My hair is almost completely gray now!
Rich
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Harper" <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
To: <Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com>
Cc: <richchrysler at quickclic.net>; <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 2:36 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Voltage Regulator Problems


>
> Josef
>
> I believe that you might be slightly wrong with the detail but it has led 
> me to an idea. There are only two brushes and I cannot see how these could 
> be fitted in any other way. However I can see that if the field coil is 
> replaced it would be fairly easy to solder the two leads to the 'F' post 
> and the large tag to the body of the generator the wrong way around. As 
> Rich says he has tried polarising many times and most likely the residual 
> magnetism is now established BUT the wrong way round. Therefore the output 
> at the 'D' terminal will be in the opposite polarity. Thus producing 12 
> Volt in opposite polarity to the battery and putting 24 volt on the 
> indicator lamp and burning it out.
>
> Rich - I this possible?
>
> Regards
>
>
>> when I had rebuild the
>>generator of my BN1 some years ago. I did the rebuild by my own and I 
>>fitted
>>the four brushes 900 twisted, which caused the symtoms you describe. You 
>>can
>>check this, when you run the generator as a motor. You need to take the
>>generator out of the car and connect the D an F terminals together and 
>>connect
>>with a battery. The generator should run like a motor. But if you put the
>>brushes 900 wrong, then the pulley turns in the wrong direction, not like 
>>it
>>was driven by the engine when installed. You can change the polarity and 
>>it
>>still runs in the wrong direction. You get the right direction, when you 
>>move
>>the brushes 900. So just move the brushes to brush holders 900 back or 
>>forth.
> -- 
> John Harper

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Mon Sep 17 23:11:41 2007
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 22:11:41 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <022901c7f99e$9b6cb450$6601a8c0@actualshop>
References: <BAY106-F390339776F2CF72FC60BCCADB80@phx.gbl>
	<022901c7f99e$9b6cb450$6601a8c0@actualshop>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10709172211j29ce0fc7me732802a13137eb9@mail.gmail.com>

Identical = exactly the same, only completely different.
As far as the voltage and amp ratings go, since he was replacing a Lucas
switch, pretty much anything he could buy would be an improvement, don't you
think?
I will take my tongue out of my cheek now.
Rick

On 9/17/07, shop at justbrits.com <shop at justbrits.com> wrote:
>
> Not picking on a fellow BJ-7 person, BUT Bill...
>
> <<the same identical switch for about 6 bucks. The only difference was the
> back of the switch, the wiring had a slightly different configuration.>>
>
> WHEN did the meaning of "identical" change??
>
> And the voltage & ampere ratings were "identical"??
>
> Enquiring minds NEED to know before all the smoke escapes!!!!
>
> Ed
>
> PS:  And that is exactly what you are begging for!!!
> PPS:  But that's OK because I DO sell Wiring Harnesses<VBG>!!
> _______________________________________________
> richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From kt20 at dodo.com.au  Tue Sep 18 00:14:36 2007
From: kt20 at dodo.com.au (keith taylor)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 16:14:36 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Rick
References: <BAY106-F390339776F2CF72FC60BCCADB80@phx.gbl><022901c7f99e$9b6cb450$6601a8c0@actualshop>
	<a3b984e10709172211j29ce0fc7me732802a13137eb9@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000701c7f9bb$3052c5c0$0202a8c0@Keith>

The PRINCE of DARKNESS is watching you.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Ewald" <richard.ewald at gmail.com>
To: <shop at justbrits.com>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 3:11 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake light switch


> Identical = exactly the same, only completely different.
> As far as the voltage and amp ratings go, since he was replacing a Lucas
> switch, pretty much anything he could buy would be an improvement, don't 
> you
> think?
> I will take my tongue out of my cheek now.
> Rick
>
> On 9/17/07, shop at justbrits.com <shop at justbrits.com> wrote:
>>
>> Not picking on a fellow BJ-7 person, BUT Bill...
>>
>> <<the same identical switch for about 6 bucks. The only difference was 
>> the
>> back of the switch, the wiring had a slightly different configuration.>>
>>
>> WHEN did the meaning of "identical" change??
>>
>> And the voltage & ampere ratings were "identical"??
>>
>> Enquiring minds NEED to know before all the smoke escapes!!!!
>>
>> Ed
>>
>> PS:  And that is exactly what you are begging for!!!
>> PPS:  But that's OK because I DO sell Wiring Harnesses<VBG>!!
>> _______________________________________________
>> richard.ewald at gmail.com
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> _______________________________________________
> kt20 at dodo.com.au
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Sep 18 00:40:04 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 14:40:04 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Rick
In-Reply-To: <000701c7f9bb$3052c5c0$0202a8c0@Keith>
References: <BAY106-F390339776F2CF72FC60BCCADB80@phx.gbl>
	<022901c7f99e$9b6cb450$6601a8c0@actualshop>
	<a3b984e10709172211j29ce0fc7me732802a13137eb9@mail.gmail.com>
	<000701c7f9bb$3052c5c0$0202a8c0@Keith>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709172340o397e7b9cubc3c1721a96a4e1b@mail.gmail.com>

FYI, the prince of darkness likes it when you fiddle with his connectors....

(just like did two days ago on the flasher relay to fix my brake lights)

Alan

- Original message -
The PRINCE of DARKNESS is watching you.

On 9/18/07, keith taylor <kt20 at dodo.com.au> wrote:
> The PRINCE of DARKNESS is watching you.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Richard Ewald" <richard.ewald at gmail.com>
> To: <shop at justbrits.com>
> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 3:11 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake light switch
>
>
> > Identical = exactly the same, only completely different.
> > As far as the voltage and amp ratings go, since he was replacing a Lucas
> > switch, pretty much anything he could buy would be an improvement, don't
> > you
> > think?
> > I will take my tongue out of my cheek now.
> > Rick
> >
> > On 9/17/07, shop at justbrits.com <shop at justbrits.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Not picking on a fellow BJ-7 person, BUT Bill...
> >>
> >> <<the same identical switch for about 6 bucks. The only difference was
> >> the
> >> back of the switch, the wiring had a slightly different configuration.>>
> >>
> >> WHEN did the meaning of "identical" change??
> >>
> >> And the voltage & ampere ratings were "identical"??
> >>
> >> Enquiring minds NEED to know before all the smoke escapes!!!!
> >>
> >> Ed
> >>
> >> PS:  And that is exactly what you are begging for!!!
> >> PPS:  But that's OK because I DO sell Wiring Harnesses<VBG>!!
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> richard.ewald at gmail.com
> >>
> >> Healeys at autox.team.net
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> > _______________________________________________
> > kt20 at dodo.com.au
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Tue Sep 18 00:59:40 2007
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 08:59:40 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Voltage Regulator Problems
In-Reply-To: <5xhshrNkks7GFw$k@jharper.demon.co.uk>
References: <03d901c7f6ec$a3de2d30$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>
	<63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750034804A9@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com>
	<5xhshrNkks7GFw$k@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Message-ID: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750034805E5@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com>

 John,
You are right. I am getting older and it was some time ago I did it. There are
only two brushes in the generator. I did as you described and ended up with
putting 24 volts on the indicator lamp.
Regards,
Josef Eckert

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: John Harper [mailto:AH at jharper.demon.co.uk]
Gesendet: Montag, 17. September 2007 20:36
An: Eckert, Josef
Cc: richchrysler at quickclic.net; Healeys at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Voltage Regulator Problems


Josef

I believe that you might be slightly wrong with the detail but it has led me
to an idea. There are only two brushes and I cannot see how these could be
fitted in any other way. However I can see that if the field coil is replaced
it would be fairly easy to solder the two leads to the 'F' post and the large
tag to the body of the generator the wrong way around. As Rich says he has
tried polarising many times and most likely the residual magnetism is now
established BUT the wrong way round.
Therefore the output at the 'D' terminal will be in the opposite polarity.
Thus producing 12 Volt in opposite polarity to the battery and putting 24 volt
on the indicator lamp and burning it out.

Rich - I this possible?

Regards


> when I had rebuild the
>generator of my BN1 some years ago. I did the rebuild by my own and I
>fitted the four brushes 900 twisted, which caused the symtoms you
>describe. You can check this, when you run the generator as a motor.
>You need to take the generator out of the car and connect the D an F
>terminals together and connect with a battery. The generator should run
>like a motor. But if you put the brushes 900 wrong, then the pulley
>turns in the wrong direction, not like it was driven by the engine when
>installed. You can change the polarity and it still runs in the wrong
>direction. You get the right direction, when you move the brushes 900. So
just move the brushes to brush holders 900 back or forth.
--
John Harper

From AH at jharper.demon.co.uk  Tue Sep 18 02:11:23 2007
From: AH at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 09:11:23 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Voltage Regulator Problems
In-Reply-To: <006401c7f9a6$bcd40f50$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>
References: <03d901c7f6ec$a3de2d30$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>
	<63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750034804A9@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com>
	<5xhshrNkks7GFw$k@jharper.demon.co.uk>
	<006401c7f9a6$bcd40f50$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>
Message-ID: <5SicZ7Rrg47GFw90@jharper.demon.co.uk>

Rich

>Today I removed both leads to the generator, joined the terminals with 
>a short piece of wire, removed the fan belt to free the generator 
>pulley, touched a wire from power (A1) to the bridged terminal wire and 
>the generator motored properly in the correct direction (same as the 
>engine turns) That confirms to me that the generator is okay, charging, 
>and polarized correctly.

This proves that the generator is connected correctly internally and is 
most likely polarised correctly but it only says that it is most likely 
CAPABLE of charge.

If all polarities are correct then your excessive voltage is coming from 
the generator itself. This means two things. The regulator is not 
controlling the charge voltage. It should put a resistor in series with 
the field 'F' winding when the correct voltage is reached. This resistor 
is in the back of the control box. However it also says the cut out is 
not making when the generator voltage exceeds the battery voltage. If it 
did the battery would hold the voltage down but excess current would 
flow from generator to battery. This would result in the generator 
heating up.

But as you see we appear to have two control box functions not working 
and this is unlikely. I would therefore suspect the earth (black) wire 
to the control box; this connects to both regulator coils and neither 
will work if not connected.

Regards

-- 
John Harper

From rkorn at simnet.is  Tue Sep 18 02:40:12 2007
From: rkorn at simnet.is (Richard Korn)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 08:40:12 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Voltage Regulator Problems
References: <03d901c7f6ec$a3de2d30$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n><63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA81750034804A9@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com><5xhshrNkks7GFw$k@jharper.demon.co.uk>
	<006401c7f9a6$bcd40f50$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>
Message-ID: <000301c7f9cf$87412b10$4001a8c0@velad>

At least you still have yours!

rgds, Richard


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
To: <Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com>; "John Harper" <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Cc: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 3:48 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Voltage Regulator Problems


> Today I removed both leads to the generator, joined the terminals with a
> short piece of wire, removed the fan belt to free the generator pulley,
> touched a wire from power (A1) to the bridged terminal wire and the
> generator motored properly in the correct direction (same as the engine
> turns) That confirms to me that the generator is okay, charging, and
> polarized correctly.
> Next I'm going to remove all the leads from the regulator and with 
> batteries
> disconnected, see if there is any continuity (other than the black wires)
> between any of the leads and earth. I'm wondering if something somewhere 
> is
> crossed and or contacting earth.
> My hair is almost completely gray now!
> Rich
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "John Harper" <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
> To: <Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com>
> Cc: <richchrysler at quickclic.net>; <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 2:36 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Voltage Regulator Problems
>
>
>>
>> Josef
>>
>> I believe that you might be slightly wrong with the detail but it has led
>> me to an idea. There are only two brushes and I cannot see how these 
>> could
>> be fitted in any other way. However I can see that if the field coil is
>> replaced it would be fairly easy to solder the two leads to the 'F' post
>> and the large tag to the body of the generator the wrong way around. As
>> Rich says he has tried polarising many times and most likely the residual
>> magnetism is now established BUT the wrong way round. Therefore the 
>> output
>> at the 'D' terminal will be in the opposite polarity. Thus producing 12
>> Volt in opposite polarity to the battery and putting 24 volt on the
>> indicator lamp and burning it out.
>>
>> Rich - I this possible?
>>
>> Regards
>>
>>
>>> when I had rebuild the
>>>generator of my BN1 some years ago. I did the rebuild by my own and I
>>>fitted
>>>the four brushes 900 twisted, which caused the symtoms you describe. You
>>>can
>>>check this, when you run the generator as a motor. You need to take the
>>>generator out of the car and connect the D an F terminals together and
>>>connect
>>>with a battery. The generator should run like a motor. But if you put the
>>>brushes 900 wrong, then the pulley turns in the wrong direction, not like
>>>it
>>>was driven by the engine when installed. You can change the polarity and
>>>it
>>>still runs in the wrong direction. You get the right direction, when you
>>>move
>>>the brushes 900. So just move the brushes to brush holders 900 back or
>>>forth.
>> -- 
>> John Harper
> _______________________________________________
> rkorn at simnet.is
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From ronhuseman at sbcglobal.net  Tue Sep 18 05:50:25 2007
From: ronhuseman at sbcglobal.net (Ron Huseman)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 07:50:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Mr. Finespanner
Message-ID: <20070918115050.28A91187A3C@autox.team.net>

Mr. Finespanner, are you out there? I have a question for you regarding one
of your products. Would you email me offline, please?

 

Ronald J Huseman

ronhuseman at sbcglobal.net

From smithn00 at kitepilot.net  Tue Sep 18 06:05:10 2007
From: smithn00 at kitepilot.net (Ned Smith)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 08:05:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 For Sale
Message-ID: <000401c7f9ec$2973c700$6401a8c0@nedsmith>

My 67 BJ8 is for sale. Any interested parties please contact me off list.

 

Ned Smith

 

62 Tbird HT

67 Austin-Healey BJ8

 

Near Chattanooga, TN

N34.89, W85.47

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Tue Sep 18 08:52:22 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (sbyers at ec.rr.com)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 10:52:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive problem
Message-ID: <23866201.1353791190127142132.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web04-z01>

Hello, Healeyphiles -

My BJ8 has developed a problem in the overdrive, and I would like to survey the wisdom of the list before getting too deeply into troubleshooting.

The overdrive is failing to disengage SOMETIMES when I turn it off, although when stuck it will disengage itself after some delay (minutes, hours, or days) after I switch off the engine.   Overdrive engagement is normal and immediate whenever I turn on the dash switch in 3rd or 4th gear.  The complete history of this intermittent problem is too long to relate here, but when it occurs the car cannot be pushed backwards in neutral, and it will eventually clear itself.  With the Lempert diff and stuck in overdrive, the car becomes very sluggish to move away from a stop in first gear.

Any ideas, or anyone else had this problem?

Thanks,
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Sep 18 09:04:20 2007
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 08:04:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <23866201.1353791190127142132.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web04-z01>
References: <23866201.1353791190127142132.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web04-z01>
Message-ID: <425E58B5-46B6-4E3C-97F4-700E95EFD46B@sbcglobal.net>

The operating rod that lifts the actuating check ball has a very  
small bleed hole about 1/3 down the rod if this hole is plugged it  
will be slow at disengaging.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Sep 18, 2007, at 7:52 AM, <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:

> The overdrive is failing to disengage SOMETIMES when I turn it off,  
> although when stuck it will disengage itself after some delay  
> (minutes, hours, or days) after I switch off the engine.    
> Overdrive engagement is normal and immediate whenever I turn on the  
> dash switch in 3rd or 4th gear.  The complete history of this  
> intermittent problem is too long to relate here, but when it occurs  
> the car cannot be pushed backwards in neutral, and it will  
> eventually clear itself.  With the Lempert diff and stuck in  
> overdrive, the car becomes very sluggish to move away from a stop  
> in first gear.

From kags at shaw.ca  Tue Sep 18 09:22:54 2007
From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 08:22:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive problem
References: <23866201.1353791190127142132.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web04-z01>
	<425E58B5-46B6-4E3C-97F4-700E95EFD46B@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <005901c7fa07$c951e110$fb086c18@computer>

Steve:

I strongly second David's motion - it has happened to me.  It can be 
intermittent if the debris is floating around inside the operating valve 
rod - very frustrating to diagnose!

The good thing is that it is one of the easiest fixes to do on the 
overdrive - from the top with the tunnel cover off.

Let us know.

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Nock" <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
To: <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 8:04 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive problem


The operating rod that lifts the actuating check ball has a very
small bleed hole about 1/3 down the rod if this hole is plugged it
will be slow at disengaging.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Tue Sep 18 09:26:30 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (sbyers at ec.rr.com)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 11:26:30 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive problem
Message-ID: <1114838.1355311190129190442.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web04-z01>

Thanks, David -
I removed the operating rod (metering pin) yesterday and inspected the hole in the pin.  It did not appear to be plugged, and I was able to manually (mouthfully?)blow through the pin easy enough, while using a paper towel to catch any crud/evidence.  Oil came out, but no crud.  I'll clean it and inspect it more thoroughly this afternoon.  I hope the solution will be that easy.

Are there other similar orifices in the oil passages that could cause the same problems if plugged?

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA
---- David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> wrote: 
> The operating rod that lifts the actuating check ball has a very  
> small bleed hole about 1/3 down the rod if this hole is plugged it  
> will be slow at disengaging.

From rusd at sitestar.net  Tue Sep 18 09:38:08 2007
From: rusd at sitestar.net (Dave Russell)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 09:38:08 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <23866201.1353791190127142132.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web04-z01>
References: <23866201.1353791190127142132.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web04-z01>
Message-ID: <46EFF0E0.8090409@sitestar.net>

It happens sometimes. The cone clutch is disengaged from the OD position 
by a set of springs. It's engaged by hydraulic pressure. If the clutch 
facing gets worn or the springs become weak, the clutch may stick in the 
OD position. Some folks have been able to release the stuck clutch by 
rapping the OD housing with a lead hammer.

As was said, clearing the bleed hole in the operating valve might also 
cure the problem, it's easy to check. If not, it may be time for a 
general rebuild & new release springs.

Dave Russell

sbyers at ec.rr.com wrote:

>Hello, Healeyphiles -
>
>My BJ8 has developed a problem in the overdrive, and I would like to survey the wisdom of the list before getting too deeply into troubleshooting.
>
>The overdrive is failing to disengage SOMETIMES when I turn it off, although when stuck it will disengage itself after some delay (minutes, hours, or days) after I switch off the engine.   Overdrive engagement is normal and immediate whenever I turn on the dash switch in 3rd or 4th gear.  The complete history of this intermittent problem is too long to relate here, but when it occurs the car cannot be pushed backwards in neutral, and it will eventually clear itself.  With the Lempert diff and stuck in overdrive, the car becomes very sluggish to move away from a stop in first gear.
>
>Any ideas, or anyone else had this problem?
>
>Thanks,
>Steve Byers
>HBJ8L/36666
>BJ8 Registry
>Havelock, NC  USA

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Tue Sep 18 09:40:37 2007
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 11:40:37 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Regulator problem....Solved!
Message-ID: <012a01c7fa0a$426a05d0$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>

Hello all,

In case any of you have been following this thread I started last week with a
BN2 with generator and regulator problems, I have found the problem and sorted
it out.
The black earth wire that comes out of the main bulkhead harness and goes to
the E terminal of the regulator was in fact not earthed at all. Yes, the twin
black wires with eyelet that fastens under the one regulator mounting screw
were in place, but the single wire coming back out of the harness to E was
not!  And this is on a relatively new harness. The owner had been complaining
about not being able to hold a charge in the batteries. No kidding!
In addition I found one battery terminal connecting the twin 6v batteries that
appeared clean and tight but was getting hot and causing intermittent complete
contact failure.
Therefore I supose that the regulator (not earthed) was also trying to send a
heavy charge to the batteries, compounding the problem.
Anyway, she's charging well, the charging indicator lamp goes out at anything
over about 800 RPM, and all seems well.
Another BN2 eager to hit the road!

I want to thank the many people who suggested things to look for, including
John Harper, Josef Eckert and David Koch. We really have a terrific resource
here with this list.

Thanks again

Rich Chrysler

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Tue Sep 18 10:52:28 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (sbyers at ec.rr.com)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 12:52:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive problem
Message-ID: <31719546.1358931190134348807.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web04-z01>

Thanks, Dave -
I rebuilt the overdrive about 1993, but I did not replace the springs.  My first thought was that the cone clutch might be somehow sticking to the brake ring and gradually releasing under tension of the springs in the absence of hydraulic pressure.  Thus the loud bang/spring sound I heard the first time when it released.

Knocking on the housing with a hammer might be a good one-time measure to free it up, but since it requires removal of the seats/console/carpet/tranny cover to get at the O/D housing, it is not a good approach for long.  Another overhaul might be in my future......:^P

Cheers!
Steve



---- Dave Russell <rusd at sitestar.net> wrote: 
> It happens sometimes. The cone clutch is disengaged from the OD position 
> by a set of springs. It's engaged by hydraulic pressure. If the clutch 
> facing gets worn or the springs become weak, the clutch may stick in the 
> OD position. Some folks have been able to release the stuck clutch by 
> rapping the OD housing with a lead hammer.
> 
> As was said, clearing the bleed hole in the operating valve might also 
> cure the problem, it's easy to check. If not, it may be time for a 
> general rebuild & new release springs.
> 
> Dave Russell

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Sep 18 10:59:04 2007
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 09:59:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <31719546.1358931190134348807.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web04-z01>
References: <31719546.1358931190134348807.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web04-z01>
Message-ID: <8703D7D8-BF38-483E-BF53-F18B41FE5850@sbcglobal.net>

Check the solenoid adjustment. We have had some that move to far and  
they cause the cone clutch to stick.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Sep 18, 2007, at 9:52 AM, <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:

> Thanks, Dave -
> I rebuilt the overdrive about 1993, but I did not replace the  
> springs.  My first thought was that the cone clutch might be  
> somehow sticking to the brake ring and gradually releasing under  
> tension of the springs in the absence of hydraulic pressure.  Thus  
> the loud bang/spring sound I heard the first time when it released.
>
> Knocking on the housing with a hammer might be a good one-time  
> measure to free it up, but since it requires removal of the seats/ 
> console/carpet/tranny cover to get at the O/D housing, it is not a  
> good approach for long.  Another overhaul might be in my  
> future......:^P
>
> Cheers!
> Steve
>
>
>
> ---- Dave Russell <rusd at sitestar.net> wrote:
>> It happens sometimes. The cone clutch is disengaged from the OD  
>> position
>> by a set of springs. It's engaged by hydraulic pressure. If the  
>> clutch
>> facing gets worn or the springs become weak, the clutch may stick  
>> in the
>> OD position. Some folks have been able to release the stuck clutch by
>> rapping the OD housing with a lead hammer.
>>
>> As was said, clearing the bleed hole in the operating valve might  
>> also
>> cure the problem, it's easy to check. If not, it may be time for a
>> general rebuild & new release springs.
>>
>> Dave Russell
> _______________________________________________
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Tue Sep 18 11:37:24 2007
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Leonard  Hartnett)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 10:37:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <696634.52460.qm@web54501.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <696634.52460.qm@web54501.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <3BAF633F59C34773B7323CCDDCBF3324@LeonardPC>

For what it is worth, and it may not be worth anything due to its age, I 
found the following notes that date back to 1994 when I replaced my brake 
switch.  Chief Auto Parts merged with Auto Zone in 1998.  If anyone has the 
where-with-all to check for a cross reference, the following part number, or 
a good number, may be found.

"Switch:  Chief Auto Parts, PT3211 B.

Adaptor:  Orchard Supply Hardware, 9073131, 3/16 FLR X 1/8 FPT.

Recommend good metal washer/gasket between adaptor and 3 way fitting to 
assure no leaks."

It should be noted that the amount of pressure on the brake pedal required 
to light the brake lights was about the same as the original switch so I 
later installed a micro-switch on the brake pedal in parallel with the 
hydraulic switch.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville,  California,  USA
1967 3000 MKIII, HBJ8L39031

.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jorge Garcia" <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
To: "Austin Healey" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 8:29 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch


>I need to replace the brake light switch on my BJ8 does anyone know if this 
>part is available from NAPA or local auto part stores? The last one I 
>bought from Moss but I'd like to have one today if possible.
>  Thanks
>  Jorge Garcia
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who 
> knows.
> Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
> _______________________________________________
> thehartnetts at earthlink.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

From bluechipracing at snet.net  Tue Sep 18 11:57:09 2007
From: bluechipracing at snet.net (bluechip)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 13:57:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive problem
References: <31719546.1358931190134348807.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web04-z01>
Message-ID: <001801c7fa1d$55cb9770$1f9bfea9@dell>

Steve:  I once had the same problem.  Occasionally it would stay in 
overdrive.  Banging on the OD with a knock-off hammer usually freed it up. 
You can bang the overdrive easily from underneath.  Jack up the rear so that 
one wheel is off the ground.  With the gearbox in neutral, try to turn the 
wheel backwards as you bang the OD,  It won't turn until the OD is released. 
This way you will know when it does release. Doing this once or twice isn't 
a problem, but it soon becomes a real nuisance if it persists.
My solution was a new cone clutch. Big job, so exhaust the other options 
first.

Jim Smith


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 12:52 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive problem


> Thanks, Dave -
> I rebuilt the overdrive about 1993, but I did not replace the springs.  My 
> first thought was that the cone clutch might be somehow sticking to the 
> brake ring and gradually releasing under tension of the springs in the 
> absence of hydraulic pressure.  Thus the loud bang/spring sound I heard 
> the first time when it released.
>
> Knocking on the housing with a hammer might be a good one-time measure to 
> free it up, but since it requires removal of the 
> seats/console/carpet/tranny cover to get at the O/D housing, it is not a 
> good approach for long.  Another overhaul might be in my future......:^P
>
> Cheers!
> Steve
>
>
>
> ---- Dave Russell <rusd at sitestar.net> wrote:
>> It happens sometimes. The cone clutch is disengaged from the OD position
>> by a set of springs. It's engaged by hydraulic pressure. If the clutch
>> facing gets worn or the springs become weak, the clutch may stick in the
>> OD position. Some folks have been able to release the stuck clutch by
>> rapping the OD housing with a lead hammer.
>>
>> As was said, clearing the bleed hole in the operating valve might also
>> cure the problem, it's easy to check. If not, it may be time for a
>> general rebuild & new release springs.
>>
>> Dave Russell
> _______________________________________________
> bluechipracing at snet.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

From insptwo at msn.com  Tue Sep 18 12:38:51 2007
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 14:38:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
Message-ID: <BAY106-F24313C4C641BA72225D81CADB80@phx.gbl>

Ok, The front was exact, the rear wiring connections were located at 
different degrees. The amphere rating and voltage ratings were excellent and 
what they should be.  Plus I should know, electricity was my field until I 
retired!
Bill
PS I don't deal with the Prince of Darkness (Mr Lucas)


>From: <shop at justbrits.com>
>Reply-To: shop at justbrits.com
>To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake light switch
>Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 21:49:57 -0500
>
>Not picking on a fellow BJ-7 person, BUT Bill...
>
><<the same identical switch for about 6 bucks. The only difference was the
>back of the switch, the wiring had a slightly different configuration.>>
>
>WHEN did the meaning of "identical" change??
>
>And the voltage & ampere ratings were "identical"??
>
>Enquiring minds NEED to know before all the smoke escapes!!!!
>
>Ed
>
>PS:  And that is exactly what you are begging for!!!
>PPS:  But that's OK because I DO sell Wiring Harnesses<VBG>!!
>_______________________________________________
>insptwo at msn.com
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From dan at warner-associates.com  Tue Sep 18 12:40:47 2007
From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 13:40:47 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <3BAF633F59C34773B7323CCDDCBF3324@LeonardPC>
Message-ID: <000801c7fa23$6e03a340$3500000a@warner.com>

Now that you mention it-is it normal to have to stomp on the brakes for that
switch to activate the brake lights and will a new switch work easier or
not?  It seems to me my lights require to much pedal pressure to activate
the lights and so I ordered a switch from Moss.

Dan


 

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Leonard Hartnett
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 12:37 PM
To: Healey Mail List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake light switch

For what it is worth, and it may not be worth anything due to its age, I 
found the following notes that date back to 1994 when I replaced my brake 
switch.  Chief Auto Parts merged with Auto Zone in 1998.  If anyone has the 
where-with-all to check for a cross reference, the following part number, or

a good number, may be found.

"Switch:  Chief Auto Parts, PT3211 B.

Adaptor:  Orchard Supply Hardware, 9073131, 3/16 FLR X 1/8 FPT.

Recommend good metal washer/gasket between adaptor and 3 way fitting to 
assure no leaks."

It should be noted that the amount of pressure on the brake pedal required 
to light the brake lights was about the same as the original switch so I 
later installed a micro-switch on the brake pedal in parallel with the 
hydraulic switch.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville,  California,  USA
1967 3000 MKIII, HBJ8L39031

.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jorge Garcia" <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
To: "Austin Healey" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 8:29 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch


>I need to replace the brake light switch on my BJ8 does anyone know if this

>part is available from NAPA or local auto part stores? The last one I 
>bought from Moss but I'd like to have one today if possible.
>  Thanks
>  Jorge Garcia
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who 
> knows.
> Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
> _______________________________________________
> thehartnetts at earthlink.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 
_______________________________________________
dan at warner-associates.com 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From alan at andysnet.net  Tue Sep 18 13:13:07 2007
From: alan at andysnet.net (Alan Schultz)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 14:13:07 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <000801c7fa23$6e03a340$3500000a@warner.com>
References: <000801c7fa23$6e03a340$3500000a@warner.com>
Message-ID: <46F02343.6030505@andysnet.net>

My advise to anyone having a car equipped with a pressure switch to 
activate the stop lights is to install a mechanical switch at the brake 
pedal that is adjusted to close the N.O. switch with about 1/2 inch of 
pedal travel. As you touch the pedal for braking the stop lights come 
on. Beats the pressure switch hands-down. Makes me much more comfortable 
when someone on a cell phone is tight up to my rear. My panic stop would 
put them in my trunk.

Those tail-gaters also convinced me to install a third high mounted stop 
light incorporated into my luggage rack. Guess I'm paranoid!! ;-)

67BJ8
51JagMKVII
Alan Schultz


Dan Stromquist wrote:
> Now that you mention it-is it normal to have to stomp on the brakes for that
> switch to activate the brake lights and will a new switch work easier or
> not?  It seems to me my lights require to much pedal pressure to activate
> the lights and so I ordered a switch from Moss.

From davzu29 at cox.net  Tue Sep 18 13:46:21 2007
From: davzu29 at cox.net (David Z)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 15:46:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
References: <000801c7fa23$6e03a340$3500000a@warner.com>
Message-ID: <002001c7fa2c$97006900$6601a8c0@ORGANIZA79207D>

Dan,

The same thing happened to me, more than once.  You shouldn't have to use 
unusual foot pressure on the brake pedal to get the lights to illuminate. 
The symptoms you describe is evidence the contacts inside your switch are 
starting to go bad.  Soon, you won't have any brake lights at all. Time to 
replace it.
David Z.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dan Stromquist" <dan at warner-associates.com>
To: "'Leonard Hartnett'" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>; "Healey ListEmails" 
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 2:40 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake light switch


> Now that you mention it-is it normal to have to stomp on the brakes for 
> that
> switch to activate the brake lights and will a new switch work easier or
> not?  It seems to me my lights require to much pedal pressure to activate
> the lights and so I ordered a switch from Moss.
>
> Dan
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net] On 
> Behalf
> Of Leonard Hartnett
> Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 12:37 PM
> To: Healey Mail List
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake light switch
>
> For what it is worth, and it may not be worth anything due to its age, I
> found the following notes that date back to 1994 when I replaced my brake
> switch.  Chief Auto Parts merged with Auto Zone in 1998.  If anyone has 
> the
> where-with-all to check for a cross reference, the following part number, 
> or
>
> a good number, may be found.
>
> "Switch:  Chief Auto Parts, PT3211 B.
>
> Adaptor:  Orchard Supply Hardware, 9073131, 3/16 FLR X 1/8 FPT.
>
> Recommend good metal washer/gasket between adaptor and 3 way fitting to
> assure no leaks."
>
> It should be noted that the amount of pressure on the brake pedal required
> to light the brake lights was about the same as the original switch so I
> later installed a micro-switch on the brake pedal in parallel with the
> hydraulic switch.
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville,  California,  USA
> 1967 3000 MKIII, HBJ8L39031
>
> .
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Jorge Garcia" <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
> To: "Austin Healey" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 8:29 AM
> Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
>
>
>>I need to replace the brake light switch on my BJ8 does anyone know if 
>>this
>
>>part is available from NAPA or local auto part stores? The last one I
>>bought from Moss but I'd like to have one today if possible.
>>  Thanks
>>  Jorge Garcia
>>


-- 
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 80 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
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From davzu29 at cox.net  Tue Sep 18 13:50:09 2007
From: davzu29 at cox.net (David Z)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 15:50:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
References: <000801c7fa23$6e03a340$3500000a@warner.com>
	<46F02343.6030505@andysnet.net>
Message-ID: <002501c7fa2d$1eac2920$6601a8c0@ORGANIZA79207D>

alan,

I replaced my hydraulic switch with a mechanical one mounted on the air 
plenum just behind the brake pedal.  I left the old, non-working switch in 
place so everything else works and looks fine, but I got tired of replacing 
the brake light switch almost every year.
David Z.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
To: "Dan Stromquist" <dan at warner-associates.com>
Cc: "Healey List Emails" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 3:13 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake light switch


> My advise to anyone having a car equipped with a pressure switch to
> activate the stop lights is to install a mechanical switch at the brake
> pedal that is adjusted to close the N.O. switch with about 1/2 inch of
> pedal travel. As you touch the pedal for braking the stop lights come
> on. Beats the pressure switch hands-down. Makes me much more comfortable
> when someone on a cell phone is tight up to my rear. My panic stop would
> put them in my trunk.
>
> Those tail-gaters also convinced me to install a third high mounted stop
> light incorporated into my luggage rack. Guess I'm paranoid!! ;-)
>
> 67BJ8
> 51JagMKVII
> Alan Schultz
>
>
> Dan Stromquist wrote:
>> Now that you mention it-is it normal to have to stomp on the brakes for 
>> that
>> switch to activate the brake lights and will a new switch work easier or
>> not?  It seems to me my lights require to much pedal pressure to activate
>> the lights and so I ordered a switch from Moss.
> _______________________________________________
> davzu29 at cox.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 


-- 
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 80 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

From bj7healey at gto.net  Tue Sep 18 15:17:48 2007
From: bj7healey at gto.net (Bob Slater)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 17:17:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
References: <000801c7fa23$6e03a340$3500000a@warner.com>
	<46F02343.6030505@andysnet.net>
Message-ID: <000701c7fa39$5ee479a0$6600a8c0@acer684c9a655d>

I have been using a similar setup for a number of years. I have placed 
pictures and details at this web address.

                    http://picasaweb.google.com/robgtonet/BobsCenterMtgBL

                                                        Bob Slater    1963 
BJ7


> My advise to anyone having a car equipped with a pressure switch to
> activate the stop lights is to install a mechanical switch at the brake
> pedal that is adjusted to close the N.O. switch with about 1/2 inch of
> pedal travel. As you touch the pedal for braking the stop lights come
> on. Beats the pressure switch hands-down. Makes me much more comfortable
> when someone on a cell phone is tight up to my rear. My panic stop would
> put them in my trunk.
>
> Those tail-gaters also convinced me to install a third high mounted stop
> light incorporated into my luggage rack. Guess I'm paranoid!! ;-)
>
> 67BJ8
> 51JagMKVII
> Alan Schultz

From robert.w.johnson at charter.net  Tue Sep 18 15:33:25 2007
From: robert.w.johnson at charter.net (Bob Johnson)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 17:33:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
References: <696634.52460.qm@web54501.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<3BAF633F59C34773B7323CCDDCBF3324@LeonardPC>
Message-ID: <010501c7fa3b$8b8dd0d0$021919ac@valued28addca9>

OK, several people have mentioned Mechanical/ Micro brake light switches. 
Can someone give some specifics on what to use or where to find such a 
thing. I asked at my local Advance Store and they had no clue.

Thanks,

Bob Johnson
BJ8

From alan at andysnet.net  Tue Sep 18 15:44:29 2007
From: alan at andysnet.net (Alan Schultz)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 16:44:29 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <010501c7fa3b$8b8dd0d0$021919ac@valued28addca9>
References: <696634.52460.qm@web54501.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<3BAF633F59C34773B7323CCDDCBF3324@LeonardPC>
	<010501c7fa3b$8b8dd0d0$021919ac@valued28addca9>
Message-ID: <46F046BD.4080205@andysnet.net>

Bob,
You'll get nowhere asking for a light switch. Just find the display of 
switches used in American cars and you should find a small pushbutton 
switch that is used as a brake switch. I think the one I found was for 
the Chrysler cars. I might be able to take a photo of the installation 
and maybe find a part number if no one else offers the info.
Alan
67BJ8

Bob Johnson wrote:
> OK, several people have mentioned Mechanical/ Micro brake light switches. 
> Can someone give some specifics on what to use or where to find such a 
> thing. I asked at my local Advance Store and they had no clue.

From DavidWMalaney at eaton.com  Tue Sep 18 15:46:18 2007
From: DavidWMalaney at eaton.com (DavidWMalaney at eaton.com)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 17:46:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <010501c7fa3b$8b8dd0d0$021919ac@valued28addca9>
Message-ID: <D06676EE138D5B4593BE21B269CADDEE0115F906@CLEOHSMB03.napa.ad.etn.com>

Bob,

Here's one:   http://www.watsons-streetworks.com/custom_cars.html

Look on the left, under Products:  brake switch/relays


Regards,
Dave M.



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+davidwmalaney=eaton.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+davidwmalaney=eaton.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bob Johnson
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 5:33 PM
To: Healey Mail List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake light switch

OK, several people have mentioned Mechanical/ Micro brake light
switches.
Can someone give some specifics on what to use or where to find such a
thing. I asked at my local Advance Store and they had no clue.

Thanks,

Bob Johnson
BJ8

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Tue Sep 18 16:53:02 2007
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Leonard  Hartnett)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 15:53:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <010501c7fa3b$8b8dd0d0$021919ac@valued28addca9>
References: <696634.52460.qm@web54501.mail.re2.yahoo.com><3BAF633F59C34773B7323CCDDCBF3324@LeonardPC>
	<010501c7fa3b$8b8dd0d0$021919ac@valued28addca9>
Message-ID: <CBB6D9A4BB6D460B99AA282E963C8B36@LeonardPC>

Bob:  There is a purpose built commercial switch that you can see at 
http://www.srbymichael.com/products/brakes/brakes.shtml
Scroll down to 'Brake Light Switch, Mechanical'.  I found this by Googling 
"brake light switch+hot rod".

or a better picture at
http://www.watsons-streetworks.com/custom_cars.html
as suggested by Dave M.

No financial interest but in looking at just these two sites, I would 
recommend you shop around for the best price.

The other alternative is to obtain a micro switch that can be wired 
'normally open' and construct a bracket for it.  I did so with a flat piece 
of aluminum cut and bent to shape and secured to a screw that holds the vent 
cover to the air box under the dash close to the pedals.  I have attached a 
picture for you.  This switch is a NO and/or NC and has three wires as it 
services two functions on my car:  brake lights (NO) and cruise control 
disengage (NC).

(The Other) Len
Vacaville,  California,  USA
1967 3000 MKIII, HBJ8L39031

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Johnson" <robert.w.johnson at charter.net>
To: "Healey Mail List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 2:33 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake light switch


> OK, several people have mentioned Mechanical/ Micro brake light switches.
> Can someone give some specifics on what to use or where to find such a
> thing. I asked at my local Advance Store and they had no clue.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob Johnson
> BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> thehartnetts at earthlink.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of AH Brake Switches 005.jpg]

From fmags at cox.net  Tue Sep 18 17:27:15 2007
From: fmags at cox.net (fmags)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 18:27:15 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Hitchcocks The Birds Healey??
Message-ID: <001f01c7fa4b$7301d6a0$321e6644@debo9w9s34m23y>

Anybody see Alfred Hitchcocks The Birds last night?  I've seen it before but
not for a long time.  The star of the show in my opinion was the sports car
driven by a blonde that looked shockingly like Paris Hilton!

The car had lots of similarities to the A-H 3000 or 100 series, and there were
lots of features and details that you could imagine evolved into the big
Healeys.  I'm guessing it was a Nash-Healey.

Anybody know?  Just curious

Thanks,
Frank

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Tue Sep 18 17:33:28 2007
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 19:33:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Hitchcocks The Birds Healey??
In-Reply-To: <001f01c7fa4b$7301d6a0$321e6644@debo9w9s34m23y>
References: <001f01c7fa4b$7301d6a0$321e6644@debo9w9s34m23y>
Message-ID: <46F06048.8080900@earthlink.net>

It's an Aston Martin DB2/4 drophead coupe.  See 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aston_Martin_DB2/4

fmags wrote:
> Anybody see Alfred Hitchcocks The Birds last night?  I've seen it before but
> not for a long time.  The star of the show in my opinion was the sports car
> driven by a blonde that looked shockingly like Paris Hilton!
> 
> The car had lots of similarities to the A-H 3000 or 100 series, and there were
> lots of features and details that you could imagine evolved into the big
> Healeys.  I'm guessing it was a Nash-Healey.
> 
> Anybody know?  Just curious

From rudedoggg at earthlink.net  Tue Sep 18 18:01:14 2007
From: rudedoggg at earthlink.net (John Rued)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 18:01:14 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Hitchcocks The Birds Healey??
References: <001f01c7fa4b$7301d6a0$321e6644@debo9w9s34m23y>
	<46F06048.8080900@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <006701c7fa50$3368c3a0$c0a2e404@RUDEDOG>

Aston-Martin.

If you ever get to the casino/bar in the town of Bodega, be sure to check 
out the fake crows and seagull in their loft.  Hitch presented "birds" to 
the bulk of the townspeople.

Hitch and Suzanne Pleshette would have lunch there every day.  Tippi Hedren 
did not.

JR
>
> fmags wrote:
>> Anybody see Alfred Hitchcocks The Birds last night?  I've seen it before 
>> but
>> not for a long time.  The star of the show in my opinion was the sports 
>> car
>> driven by a blonde that looked shockingly like Paris Hilton!
>>
>> The car had lots of similarities to the A-H 3000 or 100 series, and there 
>> were
>> lots of features and details that you could imagine evolved into the big
>> Healeys.  I'm guessing it was a Nash-Healey.
>>
>> Anybody know?  Just curious

From dwflagg at juno.com  Tue Sep 18 18:14:10 2007
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 20:14:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Looking for Gordy
Message-ID: <20070918.201410.4000.0.dwflagg@juno.com>

I have been try to contact Gordy Gilliam @ ggilliam at usol.com. Does anyone
know if this is still a good address for him? Thanks.

Doug

From amalin at mac.com  Tue Sep 18 18:39:15 2007
From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 20:39:15 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <010501c7fa3b$8b8dd0d0$021919ac@valued28addca9>
References: <696634.52460.qm@web54501.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<3BAF633F59C34773B7323CCDDCBF3324@LeonardPC>
	<010501c7fa3b$8b8dd0d0$021919ac@valued28addca9>
Message-ID: <33910CE5-F6D5-495A-8C85-1D56B53C14A0@mac.com>

I used a switch that is the part for a clothes dryer door.  Works great.

Al Malin
Tricarb

On Sep 18, 2007, at 5:33 PM, Bob Johnson wrote:

> OK, several people have mentioned Mechanical/ Micro brake light  
> switches.
> Can someone give some specifics on what to use or where to find such a
> thing. I asked at my local Advance Store and they had no clue.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob Johnson
> BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> amalin at mac.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From clocks at midcoast.com  Tue Sep 18 18:54:29 2007
From: clocks at midcoast.com (James Lea)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 20:54:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] The Farrari Wars.
Message-ID: <003101c7fa57$a233c8f0$0201a8c0@JIM>

This looks like a must have in my library. Does anyone know if it is 
available in the US yet? Cheers, JL

http://www.dvdsource.co.uk/dvd_13065480

James Lea
PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632

1952 MG TD
1952 Triumph Mayflower
1958 Rover P4
1962 Austin Healey BT7 

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Sep 18 19:08:30 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 09:08:30 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <33910CE5-F6D5-495A-8C85-1D56B53C14A0@mac.com>
References: <696634.52460.qm@web54501.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<3BAF633F59C34773B7323CCDDCBF3324@LeonardPC>
	<010501c7fa3b$8b8dd0d0$021919ac@valued28addca9>
	<33910CE5-F6D5-495A-8C85-1D56B53C14A0@mac.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709181808v4d94771egae9e861db72238a0@mail.gmail.com>

Does that mean when you open your door, the wheels stop turning?  Just curious.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8



On 9/19/07, Al Malin <amalin at mac.com> wrote:
> I used a switch that is the part for a clothes dryer door.  Works great.
>
> Al Malin
> Tricarb
>
> On Sep 18, 2007, at 5:33 PM, Bob Johnson wrote:
>
> > OK, several people have mentioned Mechanical/ Micro brake light
> > switches.
> > Can someone give some specifics on what to use or where to find such a
> > thing. I asked at my local Advance Store and they had no clue.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bob Johnson
> > BJ8

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Sep 18 19:13:39 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 09:13:39 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Hitchcocks The Birds Healey??
In-Reply-To: <46F06048.8080900@earthlink.net>
References: <001f01c7fa4b$7301d6a0$321e6644@debo9w9s34m23y>
	<46F06048.8080900@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709181813g40514348rdcd42b26f560520b@mail.gmail.com>

In my opinion the DB 2/4 Mk II and Mk III are the best of the DB lot -
small and fast.  For me, the ideal sports car.  In fact, I quite like
the hatchback.

I have heard that this car was the very first production hatchback
ever made.  Very useful for a quick run up country with your shotguns
in the back with roast pheasant on the butler's menu for the evening.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On 9/19/07, Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net> wrote:
> It's an Aston Martin DB2/4 drophead coupe.  See
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aston_Martin_DB2/4

--

From 63AHBJ7 at comcast.net  Tue Sep 18 19:17:43 2007
From: 63AHBJ7 at comcast.net (63AHBJ7)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 20:17:43 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Hitchcocks The Birds Healey??
References: <001f01c7fa4b$7301d6a0$321e6644@debo9w9s34m23y><46F06048.8080900@earthlink.net>
	<ff59076c0709181813g40514348rdcd42b26f560520b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <011401c7fa5a$e189bed0$6601a8c0@actualshop>

<<In my opinion the DB 2/4 Mk II and Mk III are the best of the DB lot ->>

"Almost" right on, Alan!!

DB-4 Zagato !!!

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Tue Sep 18 19:18:06 2007
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 21:18:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] a different overdrive problem
Message-ID: <BAY108-F227679C7E872C2DE38EA6CC8B90@phx.gbl>

Hi everyone,

My O.D. problem is just the opposite of Steve's.  All of my electrics work 
great also but my O.D. will not engage.  I here, feel, and see the solenoid 
retract and move the lever on the right side of the unit to where a 3/16" 
rod slides through the holes in the lever and the housing.  I can see the 
ball move when I activate the solenoid at rest (engine off).  This is a 
freshly rebuilt tranny/OD.  Is there something I can check and maybe 
diagnose the possible problem with the O. D. in the car?  The manual says to 
jack up the rear wheels and run the engine, then with the plug off and the 
ball, rod, and spring out check to see if there is oil pumped into that 
chamber when the O.D. is engaged.  Sounds to me that would cause oil to 
squirt all over everywhere.  Is that true or is the pressure low enough to 
perform that inspection?  I'm open to all suggestions before pulling and 
returning this thing to the rebuilder.

Thanks,

George Haywood
'65 bj8

_________________________________________________________________
Discover sweet stuff waiting for you at the Messenger Cafe.  Claim your 
treat today! 
http://www.cafemessenger.com/info/info_sweetstuff.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_SeptHMtagline2

From schauss at worldnet.att.net  Tue Sep 18 19:21:04 2007
From: schauss at worldnet.att.net (Peter Schauss)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 21:21:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
Message-ID: <20070919012123.1BD75187A74@autox.team.net>

Steve,

Mine developed the same problem after I used some off brand non-detergent
oil in it.  I had to clean out the orifice under the actuating value several
times and change the oil a couple of times before the problem went away.

Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB

> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+schauss=worldnet.att.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+schauss=worldnet.att.net at autox.team.net] On 
> Behalf Of sbyers at ec.rr.com
> Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 10:52 AM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive problem
> 
> Hello, Healeyphiles -
> 
> My BJ8 has developed a problem in the overdrive, and I would like to 
> survey the wisdom of the list before getting too deeply into 
> troubleshooting.
> 
> The overdrive is failing to disengage SOMETIMES when I turn it off, 
> although when stuck it will disengage itself after some delay (minutes,
> hours, or days) after I switch off the engine.   Overdrive engagement is
> normal and immediate whenever I turn on the dash switch in 3rd or 4th 
> gear.  The complete history of this intermittent problem is too long 
> to relate here, but when it occurs the car cannot be pushed backwards 
> in neutral, and it will eventually clear itself.  With the Lempert 
> diff and stuck in overdrive, the car becomes very sluggish to move 
> away from a stop in first gear.
> 
> Any ideas, or anyone else had this problem?
> 
> Thanks,
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
> _______________________________________________
> schauss at worldnet.att.net
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Tue Sep 18 19:26:15 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 20:26:15 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] a different overdrive problem
References: <BAY108-F227679C7E872C2DE38EA6CC8B90@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <007601c7fa5c$12ed8640$6401a8c0@toshibauser>

After I had my tranny rebuilt the O/D initially did not engage, the 
rebuilder, with many years of British car experience, said that the oil 
sometimes needs help getting back to the O/D.  I drained the oil and 
refilled the box with the front end jacked up pretty high.

The O/D worked fine after that.  I have no idea if that is your problem, but 
I always like to try the easy fixes first.

Greg Lemon
54 BN1

From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au  Tue Sep 18 19:30:31 2007
From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 11:30:31 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Hitchcocks The Birds Healey??
In-Reply-To: <011401c7fa5a$e189bed0$6601a8c0@actualshop>
References: <001f01c7fa4b$7301d6a0$321e6644@debo9w9s34m23y><46F06048.8080900@earthlink.net><ff59076c0709181813g40514348rdcd42b26f560520b@mail.gmail.com>
	<011401c7fa5a$e189bed0$6601a8c0@actualshop>
Message-ID: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C76C746A@itfexch5.central.det.win>

G'day

What a choice!!!!!

I have had the pleasure of driving both a DB2 Coupe and DB4 Zagato. Very
different motor cars as they were built for '50s touring and '60s GT
driving respectively.

I recall being pleasantly surprised with the many components shared
between the DB2 and Austin-Healeys of the same era. It was a delightful
motor car. Conversely the Zagato needed far more work to drive enjoyably
and there wasn't much English stuff to be seen, but it did share some
things with my mate's Fiat Abarth Zagato.

However I would be more than happy to have either or both in my garage.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+patrick.quinn=det.nsw.edu.au at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+patrick.quinn=det.nsw.edu.au at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of 63AHBJ7
Sent: Wednesday, 19 September 2007 11:18 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hitchcocks The Birds Healey??

<<In my opinion the DB 2/4 Mk II and Mk III are the best of the DB lot
->>

"Almost" right on, Alan!!

DB-4 Zagato !!!
_______________________________________________
patrick.quinn at det.nsw.edu.au

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************

From bj7healey at gto.net  Tue Sep 18 19:31:40 2007
From: bj7healey at gto.net (Bob Slater)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 21:31:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
References: <000801c7fa23$6e03a340$3500000a@warner.com><46F02343.6030505@andysnet.net>
	<000701c7fa39$5ee479a0$6600a8c0@acer684c9a655d>
Message-ID: <000a01c7fa5c$d6293af0$6600a8c0@acer684c9a655d>

 Hi Everyone
             I  just added more detail pictures to the web address.

                                            Bob Slater   BJ7

Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake light switch


>I have been using a similar setup for a number of years. I have placed
> pictures and details at this web address.
>
>                    http://picasaweb.google.com/robgtonet/BobsCenterMtgBL
>
>                                                        Bob Slater    1963
> BJ7
>
>
>> My advise to anyone having a car equipped with a pressure switch to
>> activate the stop lights is to install a mechanical switch at the brake
>> pedal that is adjusted to close the N.O. switch with about 1/2 inch of
>> pedal travel. As you touch the pedal for braking the stop lights come
>> on. Beats the pressure switch hands-down. Makes me much more comfortable
>> when someone on a cell phone is tight up to my rear. My panic stop would
>> put them in my trunk.
>>
>> Those tail-gaters also convinced me to install a third high mounted stop
>> light incorporated into my luggage rack. Guess I'm paranoid!! ;-)
>>
>> 67BJ8
>> 51JagMKVII
>> Alan Schultz
> _______________________________________________
> bj7healey at gto.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.22/1015 - Release Date: 
> 9/18/2007 11:53 AM

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Tue Sep 18 19:58:04 2007
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 21:58:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Coil Wiring
Message-ID: <CB2DCC9F-6293-402E-A4B9-4F4DB80901BF@gmail.com>

I'm having a senior moment!

The White/Black wire should be going to the + or - coil terminal on  
my NEGATIVE Ground BN2?

Randy

Randy Hicks
'56 100M
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Tue Sep 18 20:04:19 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 22:04:19 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
Message-ID: <380-2200793192419531@earthlink.net>

This is the one I have on my BJ8.  Have had it for several years and still
going strong.  Can't use it with the halogen bulbs though--unless you add a
relay.  


> [Original Message]
> From: <DavidWMalaney at eaton.com>
> To: <robert.w.johnson at charter.net>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 9/18/2007 5:47:30 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake light switch
>
> Bob,
>
> Here's one:   http://www.watsons-streetworks.com/custom_cars.html
>
> Look on the left, under Products:  brake switch/relays
>
>
> Regards,
> Dave M.
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+davidwmalaney=eaton.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+davidwmalaney=eaton.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Bob Johnson
> Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 5:33 PM
> To: Healey Mail List
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake light switch
>
> OK, several people have mentioned Mechanical/ Micro brake light
> switches.
> Can someone give some specifics on what to use or where to find such a
> thing. I asked at my local Advance Store and they had no clue.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob Johnson
> BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Tue Sep 18 20:05:55 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 22:05:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Hitchcocks The Birds Healey??
Message-ID: <380-2200793192555937@earthlink.net>

Aston Martin, I believe--and it was Tippy Hedron---mother of Melanie
Griffen.

Tom 


> [Original Message]
> From: fmags <fmags at cox.net>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 9/18/2007 7:27:46 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Hitchcocks The Birds Healey??
>
> Anybody see Alfred Hitchcocks The Birds last night?  I've seen it before
but
> not for a long time.  The star of the show in my opinion was the sports
car
> driven by a blonde that looked shockingly like Paris Hilton!
>
> The car had lots of similarities to the A-H 3000 or 100 series, and there
were
> lots of features and details that you could imagine evolved into the big
> Healeys.  I'm guessing it was a Nash-Healey.
>
> Anybody know?  Just curious
>
> Thanks,
> Frank
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Tue Sep 18 20:08:37 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 19:08:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Coil Wiring
In-Reply-To: <CB2DCC9F-6293-402E-A4B9-4F4DB80901BF@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKOENFDFAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>

Hi, Randy -
The white/black wire always goes to the GROUND side of the coil.  Negative
ground, then it goes to the - side of the coil.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
Randy Hicks
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 6:58 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Coil Wiring


I'm having a senior moment!

The White/Black wire should be going to the + or - coil terminal on
my NEGATIVE Ground BN2?

Randy

Randy Hicks
'56 100M
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Tue Sep 18 20:15:46 2007
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 22:15:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] a different overdrive problem
Message-ID: <BAY108-F2788B7432ED46DA568F49EC8B90@phx.gbl>

Dave,

Yes it was just rebuilt but I don't know whether it worked prior to that 
because the engine was frozen when I purchased the car.  The rebuilder said 
there was a lot of gummed up mess in there and it would have never engaged 
anyway.  Can the O.D. be removed without the tranny coming out?

Thanks,

George


>From: "david porter" <frogeye at swcp.com>
>To: "'George Haywood'" <haywoodone at hotmail.com>
>Subject: RE: [Healeys] a different overdrive problem
>Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 19:50:26 -0600
>
>Oh, its just been rebuilt and hasn't worked since? Then it's possible the
>pump drive cam was installed backwards or the pump was rotated 180 degrees.
>The first situation won't hurt anything but it has to come out to fix. In
>the second case the pump shaft has been bent and won't make any pressure 
>and
>could crack the case.
>Dave
>

_________________________________________________________________
Can you find the hidden words?  Take a break and play Seekadoo! 
http://club.live.com/seekadoo.aspx?icid=seek_hotmailtextlink1

From alan at andysnet.net  Tue Sep 18 20:15:25 2007
From: alan at andysnet.net (Alan Schultz)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 21:15:25 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <D06676EE138D5B4593BE21B269CADDEE0115F906@CLEOHSMB03.napa.ad.etn.com>
References: <D06676EE138D5B4593BE21B269CADDEE0115F906@CLEOHSMB03.napa.ad.etn.com>
Message-ID: <46F0863D.7020606@andysnet.net>

I installed a Watsons Brake Switch on my 51 Jag MKVII. You don't need to 
install one of those. A simple $3 NO switch of the type used for 
American Cars will suffice.
Alan Schultz
67BJ8
51JagMKVII



DavidWMalaney at eaton.com wrote:
> Bob,
>
> Here's one:   http://www.watsons-streetworks.com/custom_cars.html
>
> Look on the left, under Products:  brake switch/relays

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Tue Sep 18 20:24:01 2007
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 22:24:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] a different overdrive problem
Message-ID: <BAY108-F32F0288BCEA2BFAFADD6E8C8B90@phx.gbl>

Greg,

That sounds like something I could do pretty easily.  However the oil has 
been in the car since June and I have probably 50 miles on it as well.  Also 
when I pulled off the plug there was oil on the plug, ball, and spring.  
Guess it could be the assembly lube though.

Thanks,

George


>From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
>To: "George Haywood" <haywoodone at hotmail.com>, <healeys at autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] a different overdrive problem
>Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 20:26:15 -0500
>
>After I had my tranny rebuilt the O/D initially did not engage, the 
>rebuilder, with many years of British car experience, said that the oil 
>sometimes needs help getting back to the O/D.  I drained the oil and 
>refilled the box with the front end jacked up pretty high.
>
>The O/D worked fine after that.  I have no idea if that is your problem, 
>but I always like to try the easy fixes first.
>
>Greg Lemon
>54 BN1
>

_________________________________________________________________
More photos; more messages; more whatever. Windows Live Hotmail - NOW with 
5GB storage. 
http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/?locale=en-us&ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_mini_5G_0907

From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net  Tue Sep 18 20:41:49 2007
From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 19:41:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Problem Diagnosis
Message-ID: <258058.7719.qm@web80406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Greetings George,

If you'd like to measure the oil pressure your overdrive is
making, I can provide a suitable Overdrive Oil Pressure Gauge.  See:
http://tinyurl.com/505s

brgds, Jay

From geatros at shaw.ca  Tue Sep 18 20:44:51 2007
From: geatros at shaw.ca (geatros)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 19:44:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Won't start
Message-ID: <000001c7fa67$559126e0$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>

Hi Listers

I hope all is well......I went to warm up by BJ8 today, It started fine.But
while I was warming her up she died and won't start up again. I took the white
and black wire off the on /switch in the trunk nothing changed, checked  the
current to the coil seems fine.Changed the condenser 4 times with other
condensers that I have ( one was new in the lucas box) one came off the 100M
.Reset the points still nothing. If I take the coil wire hold it by one of the
spark plugs she wants to fire,but no spark coming out of the distributor
cap.The rotor turns ok . Could the distributor cap or coil just fail like that
or is there a wire I don't know about.Do you think maybe the coil is weak? Any
ideas? My guess its a bad condenser or coil, but 4 bad condenser's in a row
what are the chances, I can't get 2 numbers in a row when I play 6/49
Lottery........  Thanks

All the Best
Kenny

From gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com  Tue Sep 18 21:09:23 2007
From: gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com (Greg Wilkinson)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 20:09:23 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Won't start
In-Reply-To: <000001c7fa67$559126e0$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>
Message-ID: <GKEDJBJNDHLPKFGMKCEAOEDPDCAA.gregwilkinson@roadrunner.com>

My first thought would be a bad rotor.

-----Original Message-----

Hi Listers

I hope all is well......I went to warm up by BJ8 today, It started fine.But
while I was warming her up she died and won't start up again. I took the
white
and black wire off the on /switch in the trunk nothing changed, checked  the
current to the coil seems fine.Changed the condenser 4 times with other
condensers that I have ( one was new in the lucas box) one came off the 100M
.Reset the points still nothing. If I take the coil wire hold it by one of
the
spark plugs she wants to fire,but no spark coming out of the distributor
cap.The rotor turns ok . Could the distributor cap or coil just fail like
that
or is there a wire I don't know about.Do you think maybe the coil is weak?
Any
ideas? My guess its a bad condenser or coil, but 4 bad condenser's in a row
what are the chances, I can't get 2 numbers in a row when I play 6/49
Lottery........  Thanks

All the Best
Kenny

From geatros at shaw.ca  Tue Sep 18 21:42:56 2007
From: geatros at shaw.ca (geatros)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 20:42:56 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey won't start/ now she purrs....
Message-ID: <001201c7fa6f$2ab446c0$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>

Thank you Guys....

I checked the rotor and it was cracked..... I installed an old one I have and
she fired up on the first turn...The Healey List rules !!!!!!

Cheers
Kenny

From fmags at cox.net  Wed Sep 19 06:14:16 2007
From: fmags at cox.net (fmags)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 07:14:16 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Hitchcocks The Birds Healey
Message-ID: <002001c7fab6$995820f0$321e6644@debo9w9s34m23y>

Thanks for the info on the Aston Martin.  Now I can sleep tonight!

Frank

From healeymonster at fastwave.biz  Wed Sep 19 06:50:43 2007
From: healeymonster at fastwave.biz (Ed Townley)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 06:50:43 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Light switch
In-Reply-To: <mailman.17330.1190162377.12556.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <002f01c7fabb$b0a57410$6401a8c0@main>

Just to add a bit to the Brake light thread--those of you with third lights
might want to consider a pulser for the third light-- I recently installed
one of these on My Wife's Miata, and it works great-- relatively inexpensive
at $35 and gives a little extra notice to the Soccer Mom in the SUV who is
screaming at the kids, drinking a latte, and talking on the cell. No
financial interest, etc, etc.
See at http://www.webelectricproducts.com/products.htm
Cheers
Ed Townley
Southern NM, USA

64 BJ8

From davzu29 at cox.net  Wed Sep 19 07:12:11 2007
From: davzu29 at cox.net (David Z)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 09:12:11 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
References: <696634.52460.qm@web54501.mail.re2.yahoo.com><3BAF633F59C34773B7323CCDDCBF3324@LeonardPC>
	<010501c7fa3b$8b8dd0d0$021919ac@valued28addca9>
Message-ID: <000801c7fabe$b0987460$6601a8c0@ORGANIZA79207D>

bob,

I got mine from Streetworks. www.watsons-streetworks.com.  It was around 
$24.00 or so. I mounted it on the air box right behind the brake pedal.
David Z.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Johnson" <robert.w.johnson at charter.net>
To: "Healey Mail List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 5:33 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake light switch


> OK, several people have mentioned Mechanical/ Micro brake light switches.
> Can someone give some specifics on what to use or where to find such a
> thing. I asked at my local Advance Store and they had no clue.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob Johnson
> BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> davzu29 at cox.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 


-- 
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 80 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

From alan at andysnet.net  Wed Sep 19 08:18:41 2007
From: alan at andysnet.net (Alan Schultz)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 09:18:41 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Light switch
In-Reply-To: <002f01c7fabb$b0a57410$6401a8c0@main>
References: <002f01c7fabb$b0a57410$6401a8c0@main>
Message-ID: <46F12FC1.3030000@andysnet.net>

This thread has generated a lot of ideas of how we can alert the driver 
behind us that we are stopping. Just how far do we go in protecting 
ourselves? Maybe we should install some warning device that no one has 
thought of.  How about a couple dozen brake lights sequencing and 
several red strobe lights? Seriously, talking on the cell phone while 
driving is asking for an accident. The other day my wife and I saw 
someone in a SUV go around two lanes of stopped traffic at a red stop 
light and continue traveling as though nothing happened. As we drove by 
she was busy talking on the cell phone. Don's assume people are going to 
stop for traffic lights anymore!!!
Alan Schultz
67BJ8


Ed Townley wrote:
> Just to add a bit to the Brake light thread--those of you with third lights
> might want to consider a pulser for the third light-- I recently installed
> one of these on My Wife's Miata, and it works great-- relatively inexpensive
> at $35 and gives a little extra notice to the Soccer Mom in the SUV who is
> screaming at the kids, drinking a latte, and talking on the cell. No
> financial interest, etc, etc.
> See at http://www.webelectricproducts.com/products.htm
> Cheers
> Ed Townley
> Southern NM, USA

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Wed Sep 19 10:06:24 2007
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 12:06:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] convertible top water channel seal
Message-ID: <BAY108-F3387AAAB0256F7B3D83D57C8B90@phx.gbl>

I have a rubber seal for the water channel on a bj8 and don't know how it is 
installed.  The water channel goes around the rear of the cockpit and the 
lower edge of the top secures to the channel with a U shaped bracket that 
the top is clipped to.  Does the seal go between this bracket and the water 
channel or glue onto the water channel and fit into the channel side of it.  
In other words does the seal fit forward on the water channel or rearward on 
it and is it glued there?

Thanks again listers,

George Haywood
'65 bj8

_________________________________________________________________
Share your special parenting moments! 
http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Wed Sep 19 12:00:19 2007
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 11:00:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] burned out ign.light bulb
In-Reply-To: <000301c7f9cf$87412b10$4001a8c0@velad>
Message-ID: <95343.26871.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

l worked @ the Lucas service department Birminghaam
England  for over 7 years ...

 The w/light bulb that burnt out was caused by not
connecting the ground at the regulator , when the
engine was started the voltage out-put from the
generator went sky high in one second because the
regulator terminals stayed closed , caused by not
grounding the regulator ....

  When connected correctly the regulator cotroles the
open- circuit voltage to 15.8v to 16.4v .. the cut-out
points are in parallel with the warning light and when
those points close the bulb goes OUT

                Norman Nock    TECH TALK by  Norman
Nock
  l have been writing technical articles 
for Healey clubs for over 20 years .
After numerous requests , l have
gathered them together, along with
some never before published
articles and had them spiral 
bound in book form
       $ 35.00 + $7.50 in USA


         259 pages

     Updated Annually

     British Car Specialists ( established 1957 )
    2060 N Wilson Way .. Stockton CA 95205
   Phone # (209) 948-8767
  FAX # (209)948-1030

www.britishcarspecialists.com 

From dan at warner-associates.com  Wed Sep 19 12:34:55 2007
From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 13:34:55 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] healeys@autox.team.netE:  Brake Light switch
In-Reply-To: <46F12FC1.3030000@andysnet.net>
Message-ID: <001601c7faeb$c6193db0$3500000a@warner.com>

My favorite was in high school my classmate's dad put Christmas tree lights
all the way around the car and added old tires to the bumpers front and
rear.  I wasn't sure whether that was all for her protection or the other
drivers.

Dan 



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Alan Schultz
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 9:19 AM
To: Ed Townley
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Light switch

This thread has generated a lot of ideas of how we can alert the driver 
behind us that we are stopping. Just how far do we go in protecting 
ourselves? Maybe we should install some warning device that no one has 
thought of.  How about a couple dozen brake lights sequencing and 
several red strobe lights? Seriously, talking on the cell phone while 
driving is asking for an accident. The other day my wife and I saw 
someone in a SUV go around two lanes of stopped traffic at a red stop 
light and continue traveling as though nothing happened. As we drove by 
she was busy talking on the cell phone. Don's assume people are going to 
stop for traffic lights anymore!!!
Alan Schultz
67BJ8


Ed Townley wrote:
> Just to add a bit to the Brake light thread--those of you with third
lights
> might want to consider a pulser for the third light-- I recently installed
> one of these on My Wife's Miata, and it works great-- relatively
inexpensive
> at $35 and gives a little extra notice to the Soccer Mom in the SUV who is
> screaming at the kids, drinking a latte, and talking on the cell. No
> financial interest, etc, etc.
> See at http://www.webelectricproducts.com/products.htm
> Cheers
> Ed Townley
> Southern NM, USA
_______________________________________________
dan at warner-associates.com 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From robert.w.johnson at charter.net  Wed Sep 19 15:27:32 2007
From: robert.w.johnson at charter.net (Bob Johnson)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 17:27:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
References: <696634.52460.qm@web54501.mail.re2.yahoo.com><3BAF633F59C34773B7323CCDDCBF3324@LeonardPC>
	<010501c7fa3b$8b8dd0d0$021919ac@valued28addca9>
	<CBB6D9A4BB6D460B99AA282E963C8B36@LeonardPC>
Message-ID: <00e501c7fb03$e3e94de0$021919ac@valued28addca9>

Thanks to everyone for the info. I'll go over it all again and let you know 
the results.

Bob Johnson
BJ8 

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Wed Sep 19 15:34:21 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 14:34:21 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Redline MTL
Message-ID: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKMENKDFAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>

Hello, Healeyphiles -

Since my overdrive sticking problems have coincided with a need for a
regularly-scheduled gearbox oil change, I thought it might be time to try
the Redline MTL that so many have raved about.  Of course, my local Advance
store is out of stock (probably not "out" - just didn't order any in the
first place).  But from their catalog I noticed two things:
1.  MTL is 75W/85W.  That seems a might thick, compared to the 30W
non-detergent I have used for 25 years.
2.  MTL costs $14 per quart.  That seems a might steep, compared to the
$1.99 per quart for 30W non-detergent.

So, the cost for a twice a year oil change will go from about $8 to $56.  Is
the difference in performance worth that?  75W/85W is close to the viscosity
of rear axle oil.  What about the manual caution against using heavy oils in
the gearbox?  Is that caution obsolete now?

Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC

From Subscribe at ClassicMGMagazine.com  Wed Sep 19 14:35:08 2007
From: Subscribe at ClassicMGMagazine.com (Classic MG)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 16:35:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] New "Austin-Healey"
References: <EKEAINGPLPLMGCBCJIDKIEBFCNAA.ronald-ray@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <00b601c7fafc$94b3ea70$6601a8c0@LUNNEY1>

Get your children/grandchildren an Austin-Healey:  New kids bike being
manufactured in UK as "British-branded Austin-Healey":
http://www.toynewsmag.com/news/28916/KidsPlay-launches-Brit-brand  At least
they recognize quality!
  Kids at Play launches Brit brand
  11:15, Sep 17th 2007 by Ronnie Dungan
  Bike specialist Kids at Play is launching a new Austin Healey-branded range
next year.
  The firm is currently manufacturing a range of premium quality children's
bicycles and tricycles in the Far East and selling them on an FOB basis.
However, with the range of Austin Healey City Bikes, it will eventually start
building the bicycles in the UK.

  Boss Malcolm Evans told ToyNews: "Austin Healey is one of Great Britain's
quality marks and we are extremely proud to have acquired the contract to use
this remarkable brand."

  There are six key models in the range, all made from A1 premium alloy
frames. The gearing is high spec Shimano and it will be aimed at consumers
that ride bikes for trekking and in the City,

  "We sincerely fell that our quality is second to none and that consumers
will want to experience the brand of Austin Healey Bicycles," added Evans.
"It has certainly enhanced the joy of cycling for those who have been testing
our bicycles. With consumers frequently looking to better health and fitness
we feel we have a positive positioning within the market."
Beth Lunney, Publisher (704) 948-1745
Classic MG Magazine
8702 Taybrook Dr
Huntersville, NC 28078
(704) 948-1746
www.ClassicMGMagazine.com

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Wed Sep 19 15:55:48 2007
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 14:55:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Redline MTL
In-Reply-To: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKMENKDFAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>
References: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKMENKDFAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>
Message-ID: <D0CE1697-9F07-42E7-8FCE-4736C1E56A7F@sbcglobal.net>

Why would you change the transmission oil twice a year. That is a  
total waist. You might need to change the transmission oil every  
20,000 miles or so.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Sep 19, 2007, at 2:34 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote:

> Hello, Healeyphiles -
>
> Since my overdrive sticking problems have coincided with a need for a
> regularly-scheduled gearbox oil change, I thought it might be time  
> to try
> the Redline MTL that so many have raved about.  Of course, my local  
> Advance
> store is out of stock (probably not "out" - just didn't order any  
> in the
> first place).  But from their catalog I noticed two things:
> 1.  MTL is 75W/85W.  That seems a might thick, compared to the 30W
> non-detergent I have used for 25 years.
> 2.  MTL costs $14 per quart.  That seems a might steep, compared to  
> the
> $1.99 per quart for 30W non-detergent.
>
> So, the cost for a twice a year oil change will go from about $8 to  
> $56.  Is
> the difference in performance worth that?  75W/85W is close to the  
> viscosity
> of rear axle oil.  What about the manual caution against using  
> heavy oils in
> the gearbox?  Is that caution obsolete now?
>
> Happy Healeying!
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC
> _______________________________________________
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Sep 19 16:00:08 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 17:00:08 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] New "Austin-Healey"
References: <EKEAINGPLPLMGCBCJIDKIEBFCNAA.ronald-ray@sbcglobal.net>
	<00b601c7fafc$94b3ea70$6601a8c0@LUNNEY1>
Message-ID: <01ee01c7fb08$746673d0$6601a8c0@actualshop>

<< "We sincerely fell that our quality is second to none...>>

Hope their "quality" is better than their "spell checker" is, Beth?!?!?

LOL

Ed

From rusd at sitestar.net  Wed Sep 19 16:24:18 2007
From: rusd at sitestar.net (Dave Russell)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 16:24:18 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Redline MTL
In-Reply-To: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKMENKDFAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>
References: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKMENKDFAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>
Message-ID: <46F1A192.6000703@sitestar.net>

Hi Steve,

Don't know about the cost. I don't change it that often. I consider it 
well worth the cost. I use RL MT-90.  It certainly improves OD clutch & 
gear box synchronizer operation  for me.

Gear oils are viscosity rated at different temperatures (lower) than 
motor oils. MT-90 is a 75W-90 gear oil & is equivalent to a SAE 10W-40 
motor oil. Redline MTL is  a SAE 70W-80 gear oil & is equivalent to a 
SAE 5W-30 motor oil. Both oils are rated as API GL-4 oils.

Regards,
Dave Russell

BJ8Healeys wrote:

>Hello, Healeyphiles -
>
>Since my overdrive sticking problems have coincided with a need for a
>regularly-scheduled gearbox oil change, I thought it might be time to try
>the Redline MTL that so many have raved about.  Of course, my local Advance
>store is out of stock (probably not "out" - just didn't order any in the
>first place).  But from their catalog I noticed two things:
>1.  MTL is 75W/85W.  That seems a might thick, compared to the 30W
>non-detergent I have used for 25 years.
>2.  MTL costs $14 per quart.  That seems a might steep, compared to the
>$1.99 per quart for 30W non-detergent.
>
>So, the cost for a twice a year oil change will go from about $8 to $56.  Is
>the difference in performance worth that?  75W/85W is close to the viscosity
>of rear axle oil.  What about the manual caution against using heavy oils in
>the gearbox?  Is that caution obsolete now?
>
>Happy Healeying!
>Steve Byers
>HBJ8L/36666
>BJ8 Registry
>Havelock, NC

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Wed Sep 19 16:27:32 2007
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 18:27:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Redline MTL
In-Reply-To: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKMENKDFAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>
References: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKMENKDFAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>
Message-ID: <46F1A254.1080802@earthlink.net>

Steve,

$14 is a bit high.  I bought it locally for $9.  Summit Racing has MTL and 
MT-90 for $8.75 plus shipping.

Bob

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Wed Sep 19 18:09:27 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 17:09:27 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Redline MTL
In-Reply-To: <D0CE1697-9F07-42E7-8FCE-4736C1E56A7F@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKAENODFAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>

Well, David, whether something is a "waist" or not sort of depends on the
circumstances and your point of view, doesn't it?
Some would consider it a waste to spend $6 plus shipping (twice!) on a paper
decal reading OVERDRIVE RELAY that bleeds into illegibility within a few
months.

I change my gearbox oil twice a year because:
It's relatively cheap and easy to do
There is no filter in the gearbox and overdrive to remove more than gross
contaminants
I grind the gears more frequently than I would like, more due to lack of
attention than the type of lubrication
Grinding gears puts metal particles into the oil
Some particles don't settle out or get screened by the mesh
Bearings and small openings don't like metal particles and contaminants in
their oil
Some years I put as much 10K miles on my car
It gives me peace of mind
It has worked successfully for me for the last 25 years
It feels about the right interval to me
If a Redline change is $56 and I did it every two years for a total cost of
$112, a comparable TWICE a year change with 30W during the same time would
cost $40.  At the same cost, I could change 30W oil more frequently than
every two months.  That was my question:  is the performance improvement
with Redline worth the difference in cost?

Do you have data to justify a 20K interval, or is that just your personal
"comfort zone"?

Cheers!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC



 -----Original Message-----
From: David Nock [mailto:healeydoc at sbcglobal.net]
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 2:56 PM
To: BJ8Healeys
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Redline MTL


  Why would you change the transmission oil twice a year. That is a total
waist. You might need to change the transmission oil every 20,000 miles or
so.








  David Nock

  British Car Specialists

  Stockton Ca 95205

  209-948-8767




  www.britishcarspecialists.com

  .

  .

From pennell at cox.net  Wed Sep 19 19:00:35 2007
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 21:00:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Redline MTL
Message-ID: <16608651.1190250035442.JavaMail.root@eastrmwml01.mgt.cox.net>

Steve,

As I stated in a recent post I recently went to the Redline.  I chose the MTL.  Cost from Summit with shipping was right at $10 per qt.

As far as results it definitely makes in and out of OD smoother.  However, as far as shifting through the gears I see only a slight improvement.  Should you go to Redline?  You will have to decide if the increase in cost (given how often you change the oil and how much you drive) is worth the improvement.

Keith Pennell

> Hello, Healeyphiles -
> 
> Since my overdrive sticking problems have coincided with a need for a
> regularly-scheduled gearbox oil change, I thought it might be time to try
> the Redline MTL that so many have raved about.  Of course, my local Advance
> store is out of stock (probably not "out" - just didn't order any in the
> first place).  But from their catalog I noticed two things:
> 1.  MTL is 75W/85W.  That seems a might thick, compared to the 30W
> non-detergent I have used for 25 years.
> 2.  MTL costs $14 per quart.  That seems a might steep, compared to the
> $1.99 per quart for 30W non-detergent.
> 
> So, the cost for a twice a year oil change will go from about $8 to $56.  Is
> the difference in performance worth that?  75W/85W is close to the viscosity
> of rear axle oil.  What about the manual caution against using heavy oils in
> the gearbox?  Is that caution obsolete now?
> 
> Happy Healeying!
> Steve Byers

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Wed Sep 19 19:14:50 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 21:14:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Redline MTL
Message-ID: <380-22007942011450593@earthlink.net>

Good point.  I definitely saw a much smoother in/out of OD. I did see a
better gear shifting effort using it also.  To me it is worth the extra $$.
I run the MT 90 in my E-Type and see a much better shift effort with it. 

tom


> [Original Message]
> From: <pennell at cox.net>
> To: BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 9/19/2007 9:00:58 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Redline MTL
>
> Steve,
>
> As I stated in a recent post I recently went to the Redline.  I chose the
MTL.  Cost from Summit with shipping was right at $10 per qt.
>
> As far as results it definitely makes in and out of OD smoother. 
However, as far as shifting through the gears I see only a slight
improvement.  Should you go to Redline?  You will have to decide if the
increase in cost (given how often you change the oil and how much you
drive) is worth the improvement.
>
> Keith Pennell
>
> > Hello, Healeyphiles -
> > 
> > Since my overdrive sticking problems have coincided with a need for a
> > regularly-scheduled gearbox oil change, I thought it might be time to
try
> > the Redline MTL that so many have raved about.  Of course, my local
Advance
> > store is out of stock (probably not "out" - just didn't order any in the
> > first place).  But from their catalog I noticed two things:
> > 1.  MTL is 75W/85W.  That seems a might thick, compared to the 30W
> > non-detergent I have used for 25 years.
> > 2.  MTL costs $14 per quart.  That seems a might steep, compared to the
> > $1.99 per quart for 30W non-detergent.
> > 
> > So, the cost for a twice a year oil change will go from about $8 to
$56.  Is
> > the difference in performance worth that?  75W/85W is close to the
viscosity
> > of rear axle oil.  What about the manual caution against using heavy
oils in
> > the gearbox?  Is that caution obsolete now?
> > 
> > Happy Healeying!
> > Steve Byers
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From wericars at aol.com  Wed Sep 19 20:33:12 2007
From: wericars at aol.com (wericars at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 22:33:12 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Redline MTL
In-Reply-To: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKMENKDFAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>
References: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKMENKDFAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>
Message-ID: <8C9C945B9B7F450-E8C-48CE@webmail-da10.sysops.aol.com>

Has anyone tried GM Synchromesh Friction Modified yet?


Bill
Boston area
65 BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 5:34 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Redline MTL



Hello, Healeyphiles -

Since my overdrive sticking problems have coincided with a need for a
regularly-scheduled gearbox oil change, I thought it might be time to try
the Redline MTL that so many have raved about.  Of course, my local Advance
store is out of stock (probably not "out" - just didn't order any in the
first place).  But from their catalog I noticed two things:
1.  MTL is 75W/85W.  That seems a might thick, compared to the 30W
non-detergent I have used for 25 years.
2.  MTL costs $14 per quart.  That seems a might steep, compared to the
$1.99 per quart for 30W non-detergent.

So, the cost for a twice a year oil change will go from about $8 to $56.  Is
the difference in performance worth that?  75W/85W is close to the viscosity
of rear axle oil.  What about the manual caution against using heavy oils in
the gearbox?  Is that caution obsolete now?

Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
_______________________________________________
wericars at aol.com 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From efrenken at lctax.de  Thu Sep 20 01:22:02 2007
From: efrenken at lctax.de (Frenken, Eric)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 09:22:02 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Subscribing to the list / Problem
Message-ID: <8B76EEE3F90A6B42A4BFDE4D03F23589DEF9F7A0@spottswoode.lctax.ads>

After trying to subscribe (with another address) I've not received any
confirmation email nor did I get any message from the list moderator. I've
tried to subscribe for several times now, first time 3 days ago. What does
this mean?
a) Mark doesn't want me to be on the list
b) I didn't subscribe correctly
c) I'm too impatient
d) None of the above

Best regards

Eric
Heinsberg/Germany

Hinweise:

1. Lohr + Company GmbH WirtschaftsprC<fungsgesellschaft, AG DC<sseldorf, HRB
40580, GeschC$ftsfC<hrer: Prof. Dr. J.-A Lohr, W. Fabisch, Dr. M. TerhC<rne,
J. Kanzler (alle einzelvertretungsberechtigt/all having sole power of
representation), Dr. F. Kleinbauer

2. Es ist mC6glich, dass ein EmpfC$nger auf seinen ausdrC<cklichen Wunsch hin
bzw. als reply o.C$. eine email von einer Mitarbeiterin/einem Mitarbeiter
erhC$lt, die/der nicht zur Einzelvertretung der Gesellschaft berechtigt ist.
Wir weisen daher ausdrC<cklich darauf hin, dass der Datenaustausch per email
in solchen FC$llen nicht die schriftliche BestC$tigung nebst Unterzeichnung
durch zwei vertretungsberechtigte Personen der Gesellschaft ersetzt. Aus
diesem Grunde sind auch in dieser email enthaltene Angaben und beigefC<gte
AnhC$nge nur dann als rechtsverbindlich zu betrachten, wenn sie inhaltlich in
Form von postalischer Cbersendung bzw. kC6rperlicher Cbergabe bestC$tigt
wurden.

3. Aussagen in dieser email unterliegen unbeschadet Ziffer 2. sC$mtlichen
Regelungen des zugrundeliegenden RechtsverhC$ltnisses, insbesondere den
Allgemeinen Auftragsbedingungen und der vereinbarten individuellen
Haftungsvereinbarung.

4. Der Inhalt dieser email kann vertraulichen Charakter haben und ist nur fC<r
den im Adressfeld genannten Adressaten bestimmt. Die Weitergabe der email bzw.
AnhC$nge ist untersagt. Sollten Sie nicht dieser Adressat sein, melden Sie
sich bitte beim Absender und vernichten Sie die email nebst AnhC$ngen.

5. All statements, advices and attachements in this email are subject to the
terms and conditions of the governing client engagement letter and the agreed
limitation on liability. The content of this email and/or the content of any
attachement are/is not legally binding unless confirmed by letter, signed by
persons authorized to represent the company Lohr and Company GmbH
WirtschaftsprC<fungsgesellschaft.

6. The information contained in this email may be confidental and is intended
solely for the addressee. Any transmission or forwarding of this email or of
the attachements is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient please
call the sender immediately and delete the email and the attachements.

-> www.lctax.de

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/x-pkcs7-signature which had a name of smime.p7s]

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Thu Sep 20 01:25:53 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 02:25:53 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Subscribing to the list / Problem
References: <8B76EEE3F90A6B42A4BFDE4D03F23589DEF9F7A0@spottswoode.lctax.ads>
Message-ID: <00d401c7fb57$7b0462c0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>

d--are you using the old sign up mechanism--got to: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

so subscribe, this URL is at the bottom of every liste-mail--I don't think 
an E-mail with "subscribe healeys" works anymore.

Greg Lemon 

From efrenken at lctax.de  Thu Sep 20 01:29:11 2007
From: efrenken at lctax.de (Frenken, Eric)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 09:29:11 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Subscribing to the list / Problem
In-Reply-To: <00d401c7fb57$7b0462c0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
References: <8B76EEE3F90A6B42A4BFDE4D03F23589DEF9F7A0@spottswoode.lctax.ads>
	<00d401c7fb57$7b0462c0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
Message-ID: <8B76EEE3F90A6B42A4BFDE4D03F23589DEF9F7A1@spottswoode.lctax.ads>

Thanks, Greg, I tried exactly this link and it always says after subscribing,
that I should receive a confirmation mail or approval mail of the moderator.
But nothing happens.

All the best

Eric

Hinweise:

1. Lohr + Company GmbH WirtschaftsprC<fungsgesellschaft, AG DC<sseldorf, HRB
40580, GeschC$ftsfC<hrer: Prof. Dr. J.-A Lohr, W. Fabisch, Dr. M. TerhC<rne,
J. Kanzler (alle einzelvertretungsberechtigt/all having sole power of
representation), Dr. F. Kleinbauer

2. Es ist mC6glich, dass ein EmpfC$nger auf seinen ausdrC<cklichen Wunsch hin
bzw. als reply o.C$. eine email von einer Mitarbeiterin/einem Mitarbeiter
erhC$lt, die/der nicht zur Einzelvertretung der Gesellschaft berechtigt ist.
Wir weisen daher ausdrC<cklich darauf hin, dass der Datenaustausch per email
in solchen FC$llen nicht die schriftliche BestC$tigung nebst Unterzeichnung
durch zwei vertretungsberechtigte Personen der Gesellschaft ersetzt. Aus
diesem Grunde sind auch in dieser email enthaltene Angaben und beigefC<gte
AnhC$nge nur dann als rechtsverbindlich zu betrachten, wenn sie inhaltlich in
Form von postalischer Cbersendung bzw. kC6rperlicher Cbergabe bestC$tigt
wurden.

3. Aussagen in dieser email unterliegen unbeschadet Ziffer 2. sC$mtlichen
Regelungen des zugrundeliegenden RechtsverhC$ltnisses, insbesondere den
Allgemeinen Auftragsbedingungen und der vereinbarten individuellen
Haftungsvereinbarung.

4. Der Inhalt dieser email kann vertraulichen Charakter haben und ist nur fC<r
den im Adressfeld genannten Adressaten bestimmt. Die Weitergabe der email bzw.
AnhC$nge ist untersagt. Sollten Sie nicht dieser Adressat sein, melden Sie
sich bitte beim Absender und vernichten Sie die email nebst AnhC$ngen.

5. All statements, advices and attachements in this email are subject to the
terms and conditions of the governing client engagement letter and the agreed
limitation on liability. The content of this email and/or the content of any
attachement are/is not legally binding unless confirmed by letter, signed by
persons authorized to represent the company Lohr and Company GmbH
WirtschaftsprC<fungsgesellschaft.

6. The information contained in this email may be confidental and is intended
solely for the addressee. Any transmission or forwarding of this email or of
the attachements is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient please
call the sender immediately and delete the email and the attachements.

-> www.lctax.de

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/x-pkcs7-signature which had a name of smime.p7s]

From efrenken at lctax.de  Thu Sep 20 02:33:48 2007
From: efrenken at lctax.de (Frenken, Eric)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 10:33:48 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Subscribing to the list / Problem
In-Reply-To: <01c301c7fb59$fef3cc40$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
References: <8B76EEE3F90A6B42A4BFDE4D03F23589DEF9F7A0@spottswoode.lctax.ads>
	<00d401c7fb57$7b0462c0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
	<8B76EEE3F90A6B42A4BFDE4D03F23589DEF9F7A1@spottswoode.lctax.ads>
	<01c301c7fb59$fef3cc40$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
Message-ID: <8B76EEE3F90A6B42A4BFDE4D03F23589DEF9F7A8@spottswoode.lctax.ads>

No, it isn't. I've checked this already. Do you have info on contacting mjb
directly?

Best regards

Eric

Hinweise:

1. Lohr + Company GmbH WirtschaftsprC<fungsgesellschaft, AG DC<sseldorf, HRB
40580, GeschC$ftsfC<hrer: Prof. Dr. J.-A Lohr, W. Fabisch, Dr. M. TerhC<rne,
J. Kanzler (alle einzelvertretungsberechtigt/all having sole power of
representation), Dr. F. Kleinbauer

2. Es ist mC6glich, dass ein EmpfC$nger auf seinen ausdrC<cklichen Wunsch hin
bzw. als reply o.C$. eine email von einer Mitarbeiterin/einem Mitarbeiter
erhC$lt, die/der nicht zur Einzelvertretung der Gesellschaft berechtigt ist.
Wir weisen daher ausdrC<cklich darauf hin, dass der Datenaustausch per email
in solchen FC$llen nicht die schriftliche BestC$tigung nebst Unterzeichnung
durch zwei vertretungsberechtigte Personen der Gesellschaft ersetzt. Aus
diesem Grunde sind auch in dieser email enthaltene Angaben und beigefC<gte
AnhC$nge nur dann als rechtsverbindlich zu betrachten, wenn sie inhaltlich in
Form von postalischer Cbersendung bzw. kC6rperlicher Cbergabe bestC$tigt
wurden.

3. Aussagen in dieser email unterliegen unbeschadet Ziffer 2. sC$mtlichen
Regelungen des zugrundeliegenden RechtsverhC$ltnisses, insbesondere den
Allgemeinen Auftragsbedingungen und der vereinbarten individuellen
Haftungsvereinbarung.

4. Der Inhalt dieser email kann vertraulichen Charakter haben und ist nur fC<r
den im Adressfeld genannten Adressaten bestimmt. Die Weitergabe der email bzw.
AnhC$nge ist untersagt. Sollten Sie nicht dieser Adressat sein, melden Sie
sich bitte beim Absender und vernichten Sie die email nebst AnhC$ngen.

5. All statements, advices and attachements in this email are subject to the
terms and conditions of the governing client engagement letter and the agreed
limitation on liability. The content of this email and/or the content of any
attachement are/is not legally binding unless confirmed by letter, signed by
persons authorized to represent the company Lohr and Company GmbH
WirtschaftsprC<fungsgesellschaft.

6. The information contained in this email may be confidental and is intended
solely for the addressee. Any transmission or forwarding of this email or of
the attachements is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient please
call the sender immediately and delete the email and the attachements.

-> www.lctax.de

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/x-pkcs7-signature which had a name of smime.p7s]

From amalin at mac.com  Thu Sep 20 05:52:46 2007
From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 07:52:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0709181808v4d94771egae9e861db72238a0@mail.gmail.com>
References: <696634.52460.qm@web54501.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<3BAF633F59C34773B7323CCDDCBF3324@LeonardPC>
	<010501c7fa3b$8b8dd0d0$021919ac@valued28addca9>
	<33910CE5-F6D5-495A-8C85-1D56B53C14A0@mac.com>
	<ff59076c0709181808v4d94771egae9e861db72238a0@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1D4FC157-8F61-4EA5-A800-9D87EBAC2208@mac.com>

The wheels keep turning just fine, however, Downy fabric softener now  
works better than Bardahl's Instead 'O Lead.  :=)

Al Malin
Tricarb

downy fabric softener

instead


On Sep 18, 2007, at 9:08 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:

> Does that mean when you open your door, the wheels stop turning?   
> Just curious.
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
>
>
>
> On 9/19/07, Al Malin <amalin at mac.com> wrote:
>> I used a switch that is the part for a clothes dryer door.  Works  
>> great.
>>
>> Al Malin
>> Tricarb
>>
>> On Sep 18, 2007, at 5:33 PM, Bob Johnson wrote:
>>
>>> OK, several people have mentioned Mechanical/ Micro brake light
>>> switches.
>>> Can someone give some specifics on what to use or where to find  
>>> such a
>>> thing. I asked at my local Advance Store and they had no clue.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Bob Johnson
>>> BJ8

From dcongleton at embarqmail.com  Thu Sep 20 06:01:53 2007
From: dcongleton at embarqmail.com (Dallas Congleton)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 08:01:53 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Subscribing to the list / Problem
References: <8B76EEE3F90A6B42A4BFDE4D03F23589DEF9F7A0@spottswoode.lctax.ads><00d401c7fb57$7b0462c0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
	<8B76EEE3F90A6B42A4BFDE4D03F23589DEF9F7A1@spottswoode.lctax.ads>
Message-ID: <009d01c7fb7e$092c7cb0$0201a8c0@your4dacd0ea75>

Eric it is possible that your email filter is blocking the list?

Dallas


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Frenken, Eric" <efrenken at lctax.de>
To: "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2007 3:29 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Subscribing to the list / Problem


> Thanks, Greg, I tried exactly this link and it always says after 
> subscribing,
> that I should receive a confirmation mail or approval mail of the 
> moderator.
> But nothing happens.
>
> All the best
>
> Eric

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Sep 20 06:12:34 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 20:12:34 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Subscribing to the list / Problem
In-Reply-To: <8B76EEE3F90A6B42A4BFDE4D03F23589DEF9F7A8@spottswoode.lctax.ads>
References: <8B76EEE3F90A6B42A4BFDE4D03F23589DEF9F7A0@spottswoode.lctax.ads>
	<00d401c7fb57$7b0462c0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
	<8B76EEE3F90A6B42A4BFDE4D03F23589DEF9F7A1@spottswoode.lctax.ads>
	<01c301c7fb59$fef3cc40$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
	<8B76EEE3F90A6B42A4BFDE4D03F23589DEF9F7A8@spottswoode.lctax.ads>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709200512j26185a71lf337467f8fb208b6@mail.gmail.com>

Eric -

I see your emails so you are on the healey list.

Alan


On 9/20/07, Frenken, Eric <efrenken at lctax.de> wrote:
> No, it isn't. I've checked this already. Do you have info on contacting mjb
> directly?
>
> Best regards
>
> Eric
>
> Hinweise:
>
> 1. Lohr + Company GmbH WirtschaftsprC<fungsgesellschaft, AG DC<sseldorf, HRB
> 40580, GeschC$ftsfC<hrer: Prof. Dr. J.-A Lohr, W. Fabisch, Dr. M. TerhC<rne,
> J. Kanzler (alle einzelvertretungsberechtigt/all having sole power of
> representation), Dr. F. Kleinbauer
>
> 2. Es ist mC6glich, dass ein EmpfC$nger auf seinen ausdrC<cklichen Wunsch
> hin
> bzw. als reply o.C$. eine email von einer Mitarbeiterin/einem Mitarbeiter
> erhC$lt, die/der nicht zur Einzelvertretung der Gesellschaft berechtigt ist.
> Wir weisen daher ausdrC<cklich darauf hin, dass der Datenaustausch per email
> in solchen FC$llen nicht die schriftliche BestC$tigung nebst Unterzeichnung
> durch zwei vertretungsberechtigte Personen der Gesellschaft ersetzt. Aus
> diesem Grunde sind auch in dieser email enthaltene Angaben und beigefC<gte
> AnhC$nge nur dann als rechtsverbindlich zu betrachten, wenn sie inhaltlich
> in
> Form von postalischer C bersendung bzw. kC6rperlicher C bergabe bestC$tigt
> wurden.
>
> 3. Aussagen in dieser email unterliegen unbeschadet Ziffer 2. sC$mtlichen
> Regelungen des zugrundeliegenden RechtsverhC$ltnisses, insbesondere den
> Allgemeinen Auftragsbedingungen und der vereinbarten individuellen
> Haftungsvereinbarung.
>
> 4. Der Inhalt dieser email kann vertraulichen Charakter haben und ist nur
> fC<r
> den im Adressfeld genannten Adressaten bestimmt. Die Weitergabe der email
> bzw.
> AnhC$nge ist untersagt. Sollten Sie nicht dieser Adressat sein, melden Sie
> sich bitte beim Absender und vernichten Sie die email nebst AnhC$ngen.
>
> 5. All statements, advices and attachements in this email are subject to the
> terms and conditions of the governing client engagement letter and the
> agreed
> limitation on liability. The content of this email and/or the content of any
> attachement are/is not legally binding unless confirmed by letter, signed by
> persons authorized to represent the company Lohr and Company GmbH
> WirtschaftsprC<fungsgesellschaft.
>
> 6. The information contained in this email may be confidental and is
> intended
> solely for the addressee. Any transmission or forwarding of this email or of
> the attachements is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient please
> call the sender immediately and delete the email and the attachements.
>
> -> www.lctax.de
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/x-pkcs7-signature
> which had a name of smime.p7s]
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Sep 20 08:18:16 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 09:18:16 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Subscribing to the list / Problem
References: <8B76EEE3F90A6B42A4BFDE4D03F23589DEF9F7A0@spottswoode.lctax.ads>
Message-ID: <06fb01c7fb91$173a39b0$6601a8c0@actualshop>

Eric F. penned:

<<After trying to subscribe (with another address)>>; and added further:
<<approval mail of the moderator.>>

For the latter, I am actually surprised Mark set things up this way as it
requires him to check to "Held for List Moderator's Action".  But that would
be the reason that a "quick" approval has not come forth.  His has a LOT of
Lists plus he does have to work for a living. -:).

On to the new way (besides the Info page-:) ).

Send a mail to:

healeys-request at autox.team.net    with NO "subject" and just the word

subscribe        in the body.  Rest IS automatic.  Un-subbing may be done the
same way.  Remember to immediately go to the "Info Page" and change the
password that comes with the subscription to one you use or will remember.

All the rest of the info is still available at www.team.net .

I know this stuff because my "Joke List" and several other Club and private
Lists I run use the same software as to what Mark has recently changed to.

Ed

From seidelaj at hotmail.com  Thu Sep 20 08:35:14 2007
From: seidelaj at hotmail.com (Andrew Seidel)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 10:35:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 & BJ8 Hardtop on Ebay
Message-ID: <BAY134-W26CCB5AABCB6196EBBF369D6BA0@phx.gbl>

Check out the Hardtop on Ebay.

Good Price!

Andy
_________________________________________________________________
Can you find the hidden words?  Take a break and play Seekadoo!
http://club.live.com/seekadoo.aspx?icid=seek_wlmailtextlink

From rkorn at simnet.is  Thu Sep 20 08:53:17 2007
From: rkorn at simnet.is (Richard Korn)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 14:53:17 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
References: <696634.52460.qm@web54501.mail.re2.yahoo.com><3BAF633F59C34773B7323CCDDCBF3324@LeonardPC><010501c7fa3b$8b8dd0d0$021919ac@valued28addca9><33910CE5-F6D5-495A-8C85-1D56B53C14A0@mac.com><ff59076c0709181808v4d94771egae9e861db72238a0@mail.gmail.com>
	<1D4FC157-8F61-4EA5-A800-9D87EBAC2208@mac.com>
Message-ID: <001301c7fb95$faac6750$4001a8c0@velad>

I wonder if anyone has tried using the switch from a refridgerator door.

Well it4s almost friday

Richard
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Al Malin" <amalin at mac.com>
To: "Healey Mail List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2007 11:52 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake light switch


> The wheels keep turning just fine, however, Downy fabric softener now
> works better than Bardahl's Instead 'O Lead.  :=)
>
> Al Malin
> Tricarb
>
> downy fabric softener
>
> instead
>
>
> On Sep 18, 2007, at 9:08 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
>
>> Does that mean when you open your door, the wheels stop turning?
>> Just curious.
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> '52 A90
>> '53 BN1
>> '64 BJ8
>>
>>
>>
>> On 9/19/07, Al Malin <amalin at mac.com> wrote:
>>> I used a switch that is the part for a clothes dryer door.  Works
>>> great.
>>>
>>> Al Malin
>>> Tricarb
>>>
>>> On Sep 18, 2007, at 5:33 PM, Bob Johnson wrote:
>>>
>>>> OK, several people have mentioned Mechanical/ Micro brake light
>>>> switches.
>>>> Can someone give some specifics on what to use or where to find
>>>> such a
>>>> thing. I asked at my local Advance Store and they had no clue.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>>
>>>> Bob Johnson
>>>> BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> rkorn at simnet.is
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From jimf at frakes-eng.com  Thu Sep 20 09:32:43 2007
From: jimf at frakes-eng.com (Frakes, Jim)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 11:32:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Redline MTL
References: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKMENKDFAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>
	<8C9C945B9B7F450-E8C-48CE@webmail-da10.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <BC71FB2B0D08F54BA7F2E741DF3F06E40B75A5@s07.frakes-eng.com>

Steve,

I have purchased it on line from Jeg's for under $9 plus shipping.

Jim Frakes

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+jimf=frakes-eng.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+jimf=frakes-eng.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
wericars at aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 10:33 PM
To: sbyers at ec.rr.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Redline MTL

Has anyone tried GM Synchromesh Friction Modified yet?


Bill
Boston area
65 BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 5:34 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Redline MTL



Hello, Healeyphiles -

Since my overdrive sticking problems have coincided with a need for a
regularly-scheduled gearbox oil change, I thought it might be time to
try
the Redline MTL that so many have raved about.  Of course, my local
Advance
store is out of stock (probably not "out" - just didn't order any in the
first place).  But from their catalog I noticed two things:
1.  MTL is 75W/85W.  That seems a might thick, compared to the 30W
non-detergent I have used for 25 years.
2.  MTL costs $14 per quart.  That seems a might steep, compared to the
$1.99 per quart for 30W non-detergent.

So, the cost for a twice a year oil change will go from about $8 to $56.
Is
the difference in performance worth that?  75W/85W is close to the
viscosity
of rear axle oil.  What about the manual caution against using heavy
oils in
the gearbox?  Is that caution obsolete now?

Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
_______________________________________________
wericars at aol.com

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! -
http://mail.aol.com
_______________________________________________
jimf at frakes-eng.com

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE
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From rusd at sitestar.net  Thu Sep 20 11:25:36 2007
From: rusd at sitestar.net (Dave Russell)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 11:25:36 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Redline MTL
In-Reply-To: <8C9C945B9B7F450-E8C-48CE@webmail-da10.sysops.aol.com>
References: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKMENKDFAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>
	<8C9C945B9B7F450-E8C-48CE@webmail-da10.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <46F2AD10.3030702@sitestar.net>

Hi Bill,

Not to my knowledge. "Friction Modified" can mean two different things. 
IE more friction or less friction. The Healey transmission synchronizer 
rings can benefit from an oil that has more friction (less slippery)  so 
that the synchros can grab harder & quicker when you shift. It also 
makes OD engagement more positive.  Redline MTL & MT-90 have higher 
friction  coefficients  than some other lubes. On the other hand, motor 
oils usually work better with a lower friction coefficient, except 
during ring break in.

Some more modern transmissions seem to benefit from a lube that has less 
friction, lower friction coefficient. I'm really not sure if the GM 
"Friction Modified" has a higher or lower friction coefficient than 
standard. If it means less friction, it would be worse in the Healey 
transmissions.

I do know that on automatic transmission fluids, "Friction Modified" 
means that the lube has less friction to promote smoother shifts.

Regards,
Dave Russell

wericars at aol.com wrote:

>Has anyone tried GM Synchromesh Friction Modified yet?
>
>
>Bill
>Boston area
>65 BJ8

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Thu Sep 20 12:32:40 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 14:32:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 & BJ8 Hardtop on Ebay
Message-ID: <380-220079420183240453@earthlink.net>

link please.




> [Original Message]
> From: Andrew Seidel <seidelaj at hotmail.com>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 9/20/2007 10:35:34 AM
> Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 & BJ8 Hardtop on Ebay
>
> Check out the Hardtop on Ebay.
>
> Good Price!
>
> Andy
> _________________________________________________________________
> Can you find the hidden words?  Take a break and play Seekadoo!
> http://club.live.com/seekadoo.aspx?icid=seek_wlmailtextlink
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From jstmorris at yahoo.com  Thu Sep 20 12:58:38 2007
From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 14:58:38 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 & BJ8 Hardtop on Ebay
In-Reply-To: <380-220079420183240453@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <963661.65375.qm@web30310.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Here you go Tom.  Have fun!
  --Scott Morris, Simcoe, Ontario, Canada;  '60 MkI BN7, '62 MkII BT7
   
  Item number: 230173402663
   
  http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&viewitem=&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fsearch.ebay.com%3A80%2Fsearch%2Fsearch.dll%3Ffrom%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dm37%26satitle%3D230173402663%26category0%3D%26fvi%3D1&item=230173402663 
  

Tom Felts <tomfelts at earthlink.net> wrote:
  link please.

> [Original Message]
> From: Andrew Seidel 
> To: 
> Date: 9/20/2007 10:35:34 AM
> Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 & BJ8 Hardtop on Ebay
> Check out the Hardtop on Ebay.
> Good Price!
> Andy

J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
       
---------------------------------
Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail  

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Wed Sep 19 21:37:26 2007
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Leonard  Hartnett)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 20:37:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] New "Austin-Healey"
In-Reply-To: <00b601c7fafc$94b3ea70$6601a8c0@LUNNEY1>
References: <EKEAINGPLPLMGCBCJIDKIEBFCNAA.ronald-ray@sbcglobal.net>
	<00b601c7fafc$94b3ea70$6601a8c0@LUNNEY1>
Message-ID: <9B773D5825E14619A2B7869709F633A1@LeonardPC>

Sort of related - but not really.  On the same web site as the article on 
the bike, I noticed a report about Heelys, the shoe with the wheel in the 
heel.  This product was brought to our attention a few years ago right here 
on The List.

Briefly, a lawsuit has been filed against Heelys after reports of serious 
injuries.  Schiffrin Barroway Topaz & Kessler alleges that the manufacturer 
of the wheeled footwear failed to disclose and misrepresented safety 
information.  The Consumer Product Safety Commission revealed that in 2006 
there had been about 1,600 visits to emergency rooms attributed to accidents 
from children wearing Heelys. According to these reports, a large number of 
accidents were a result of children falling backwards, which resulted in 
injuries such as cracked skulls, concussions, broken bones and dislocations. 
It was also alleged that at least one death occurred.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville,  California,  USA
1967 3000 MKIII, HBJ8L39031

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Classic MG" <Subscribe at ClassicMGMagazine.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 1:35 PM
Subject: [Healeys] New "Austin-Healey"


> Get your children/grandchildren an Austin-Healey:  New kids bike being
> manufactured in UK as "British-branded Austin-Healey":
> http://www.toynewsmag.com/news/28916/KidsPlay-launches-Brit-brand  At 
> least
> they recognize quality!
>  Kids at Play launches Brit brand
>  11:15, Sep 17th 2007 by Ronnie Dungan
>  Bike specialist Kids at Play is launching a new Austin Healey-branded range
> next year.
>  The firm is currently manufacturing a range of premium quality children's
> bicycles and tricycles in the Far East and selling them on an FOB basis.
> However, with the range of Austin Healey City Bikes, it will eventually 
> start
> building the bicycles in the UK.
>
>  Boss Malcolm Evans told ToyNews: "Austin Healey is one of Great Britain's
> quality marks and we are extremely proud to have acquired the contract to 
> use
> this remarkable brand."
>
>  There are six key models in the range, all made from A1 premium alloy
> frames. The gearing is high spec Shimano and it will be aimed at consumers
> that ride bikes for trekking and in the City,
>
>  "We sincerely fell that our quality is second to none and that consumers
> will want to experience the brand of Austin Healey Bicycles," added Evans.
> "It has certainly enhanced the joy of cycling for those who have been 
> testing
> our bicycles. With consumers frequently looking to better health and 
> fitness
> we feel we have a positive positioning within the market."
> Beth Lunney, Publisher (704) 948-1745
> Classic MG Magazine
> 8702 Taybrook Dr
> Huntersville, NC 28078
> (704) 948-1746
> www.ClassicMGMagazine.com
> _______________________________________________
> thehartnetts at earthlink.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Thu Sep 20 00:10:07 2007
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Leonard  Hartnett)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 23:10:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Light switch
In-Reply-To: <46F12FC1.3030000@andysnet.net>
References: <002f01c7fabb$b0a57410$6401a8c0@main>
	<46F12FC1.3030000@andysnet.net>
Message-ID: <020D027621734D15A5C1EE2BB7C65508@LeonardPC>

On the way home from the All British car meet in Palo Alto (CA), while 
driving through San Francisco, I looked over and saw a woman talking on her 
cell phone.  When she looked my way, I gave her a 'thumbs down".  At the 
next stop light, she had put the phone down - and was eating a bowl of 
noodles.  I think she put the phone down.  She may have been holding it to 
her right ear with her shoulder - while eating the noodles.  They just don't 
get the message to "drive now, do those other things later".

(The Other) Len
Vacaville,  California,  USA
1967 3000 MKIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
To: "Ed Townley" <healeymonster at fastwave.biz>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 7:18 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Light switch


> This thread has generated a lot of ideas of how we can alert the driver
> behind us that we are stopping. Just how far do we go in protecting
> ourselves? Maybe we should install some warning device that no one has
> thought of.  How about a couple dozen brake lights sequencing and
> several red strobe lights? Seriously, talking on the cell phone while
> driving is asking for an accident. The other day my wife and I saw
> someone in a SUV go around two lanes of stopped traffic at a red stop
> light and continue traveling as though nothing happened. As we drove by
> she was busy talking on the cell phone. Don's assume people are going to
> stop for traffic lights anymore!!!
> Alan Schultz
> 67BJ8
>
>
> Ed Townley wrote:
>> Just to add a bit to the Brake light thread--those of you with third 
>> lights
>> might want to consider a pulser for the third light-- I recently 
>> installed
>> one of these on My Wife's Miata, and it works great-- relatively 
>> inexpensive
>> at $35 and gives a little extra notice to the Soccer Mom in the SUV who 
>> is
>> screaming at the kids, drinking a latte, and talking on the cell. No
>> financial interest, etc, etc.
>> See at http://www.webelectricproducts.com/products.htm
>> Cheers
>> Ed Townley
>> Southern NM, USA
> _______________________________________________
> thehartnetts at earthlink.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Thu Sep 20 15:17:35 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 17:17:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 & BJ8 Hardtop on Ebay
Message-ID: <380-220079420211735306@earthlink.net>

Thanks-------now--where it that tinyurl??:):):)


> [Original Message]
> From: J. Scott Morris <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
> To: <tomfelts at earthlink.net>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 9/20/2007 2:58:39 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 & BJ8 Hardtop on Ebay
>
> Here you go Tom.  Have fun!
>   --Scott Morris, Simcoe, Ontario, Canada;  '60 MkI BN7, '62 MkII BT7
>    
>   Item number: 230173402663
>    
>  
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&viewitem=&ru=http%3
A%2F%2Fsearch.ebay.com%3A80%2Fsearch%2Fsearch.dll%3Ffrom%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dm
37%26satitle%3D230173402663%26category0%3D%26fvi%3D1&item=230173402663 
>   
>
> Tom Felts <tomfelts at earthlink.net> wrote:
>   link please.
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: Andrew Seidel 
> > To: 
> > Date: 9/20/2007 10:35:34 AM
> > Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 & BJ8 Hardtop on Ebay
> > Check out the Hardtop on Ebay.
> > Good Price!
> > Andy
>
> J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
>        
> ---------------------------------
> Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the
boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail  
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From dwflagg at juno.com  Thu Sep 20 15:16:56 2007
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 17:16:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Car, but non-Healey Related
Message-ID: <20070920.171656.4032.0.dwflagg@juno.com>

In going through her late father's stamp collection, my wife found 5
first day stamps honoring luxury motorcars from the late 20's and early
30's. The stamp is mounted on a card (post size) with a color pen and ink
drawing of the vehicle. There is a brief history on the back of the card.
They are:

  1) 1929 Locomobile
  2)  1929 Pierce - Arrow
  3)  1931 Cord
  4)  1932 Packard
  5)  1935 Duesenberg

The cards are cancelled Aug 25 1988 from Detroit, MI. If you have an
interest, please contact me off the list. Thanks.

Doug

From serraodan at gmail.com  Thu Sep 20 16:30:59 2007
From: serraodan at gmail.com (Dan Serrao)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 15:30:59 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Light switch
In-Reply-To: <020D027621734D15A5C1EE2BB7C65508@LeonardPC>
References: <002f01c7fabb$b0a57410$6401a8c0@main>
	<46F12FC1.3030000@andysnet.net>
	<020D027621734D15A5C1EE2BB7C65508@LeonardPC>
Message-ID: <13f928820709201530w27f0aa63wae5f849c652dd3a2@mail.gmail.com>

The other day I saw a guy on a motorcycle holding a cell phone in his ear
with his shoulder. I wanted to offer him a job in the circus!!

Dan Serrao
1963 BJ7


On 9/19/07, Leonard Hartnett <thehartnetts at earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> On the way home from the All British car meet in Palo Alto (CA), while
> driving through San Francisco, I looked over and saw a woman talking on
> her
> cell phone.  When she looked my way, I gave her a 'thumbs down".  At the
> next stop light, she had put the phone down - and was eating a bowl of
> noodles.  I think she put the phone down.  She may have been holding it to
> her right ear with her shoulder - while eating the noodles.  They just
> don't
> get the message to "drive now, do those other things later".
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville,  California,  USA
> 1967 3000 MKIII, HBJ8L39031
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
> To: "Ed Townley" <healeymonster at fastwave.biz>
> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 7:18 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Light switch
>
>
> > This thread has generated a lot of ideas of how we can alert the driver
> > behind us that we are stopping. Just how far do we go in protecting
> > ourselves? Maybe we should install some warning device that no one has
> > thought of.  How about a couple dozen brake lights sequencing and
> > several red strobe lights? Seriously, talking on the cell phone while
> > driving is asking for an accident. The other day my wife and I saw
> > someone in a SUV go around two lanes of stopped traffic at a red stop
> > light and continue traveling as though nothing happened. As we drove by
> > she was busy talking on the cell phone. Don's assume people are going to
> > stop for traffic lights anymore!!!
> > Alan Schultz
> > 67BJ8
> >
> >
> > Ed Townley wrote:
> >> Just to add a bit to the Brake light thread--those of you with third
> >> lights
> >> might want to consider a pulser for the third light-- I recently
> >> installed
> >> one of these on My Wife's Miata, and it works great-- relatively
> >> inexpensive
> >> at $35 and gives a little extra notice to the Soccer Mom in the SUV who
> >> is
> >> screaming at the kids, drinking a latte, and talking on the cell. No
> >> financial interest, etc, etc.
> >> See at http://www.webelectricproducts.com/products.htm
> >> Cheers
> >> Ed Townley
> >> Southern NM, USA
> > _______________________________________________
> > thehartnetts at earthlink.net
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> _______________________________________________
> serraodan at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From coll44 at msn.com  Thu Sep 20 16:57:08 2007
From: coll44 at msn.com (TERRY COLL)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 18:57:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
Message-ID: <BAY102-DAV1CDF2D2C2ED4B9FDE8599C9BA0@phx.gbl>

Many years ago I got a new clutch disc for my 1st Healey (a '57 BN4 whit a '65
BJ8 engine) from a brake/clutch shop in the Washington DC area.  It was a
clutch disc from an early 70's Plymouth which I was told to install backwards.
Worked great!

Terry Coll  '64 BJ8

----- Original Message -----
From: richard mayor
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 10:03 PM
To: fortee9er at yahoo.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake light switch

I few years back I went to my local auto parts store - not an import parts
store. As a racer, I'm not concerned with concourse replacement parts. They
have books which show a gazillion hyraulic brake line switches.  I saw a
picture of one that looked right. It was an american product. The
application was for some 1950's american iron and it was identical to the
Healey brake light swith, right down to the proper threads. You would be
surprised what you can buy for your Healey at an american parts store.
Richard Mayor


>From: Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
>To: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
>Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
>Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 08:29:58 -0700 (PDT)
>
>I need to replace the brake light switch on my BJ8 does anyone know if this
>part is available from NAPA or local auto part stores? The last one I
>bought from Moss but I'd like to have one today if possible.
>   Thanks
>   Jorge Garcia
>
>
>
>---------------------------------
>Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows.
>Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
>_______________________________________________
>mayorrichard at hotmail.com
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

_________________________________________________________________
Kick back and relax with hot games and cool activities at the Messenger
Cafi. http://www.cafemessenger.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_SeptHMtagline1
_______________________________________________
coll44 at msn.com

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From jsoderling at astound.net  Thu Sep 20 17:35:23 2007
From: jsoderling at astound.net (John Soderling)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 16:35:23 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Light switch
References: <002f01c7fabb$b0a57410$6401a8c0@main><46F12FC1.3030000@andysnet.net>
	<020D027621734D15A5C1EE2BB7C65508@LeonardPC>
Message-ID: <000801c7fbde$eabb6690$31c6ea42@Soderling>

Len,
If this experience had not been so dangerous, it might qualified as a Friday 
Funnies!
Vrooom vrooom,
John
Erika the Red

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Leonard Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
To: "Healey Mail List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 11:10 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Light switch


> On the way home from the All British car meet in Palo Alto (CA), while
> driving through San Francisco, I looked over and saw a woman talking on 
> her
> cell phone.  When she looked my way, I gave her a 'thumbs down".  At the
> next stop light, she had put the phone down - and was eating a bowl of
> noodles.  I think she put the phone down.  She may have been holding it to
> her right ear with her shoulder - while eating the noodles.  They just 
> don't
> get the message to "drive now, do those other things later".
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville,  California,  USA
> 1967 3000 MKIII, HBJ8L39031
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
> To: "Ed Townley" <healeymonster at fastwave.biz>
> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 7:18 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Light switch
>
>
>> This thread has generated a lot of ideas of how we can alert the driver
>> behind us that we are stopping. Just how far do we go in protecting
>> ourselves? Maybe we should install some warning device that no one has
>> thought of.  How about a couple dozen brake lights sequencing and
>> several red strobe lights? Seriously, talking on the cell phone while
>> driving is asking for an accident. The other day my wife and I saw
>> someone in a SUV go around two lanes of stopped traffic at a red stop
>> light and continue traveling as though nothing happened. As we drove by
>> she was busy talking on the cell phone. Don's assume people are going to
>> stop for traffic lights anymore!!!
>> Alan Schultz
>> 67BJ8
>>
>>
>> Ed Townley wrote:
>>> Just to add a bit to the Brake light thread--those of you with third
>>> lights
>>> might want to consider a pulser for the third light-- I recently
>>> installed
>>> one of these on My Wife's Miata, and it works great-- relatively
>>> inexpensive
>>> at $35 and gives a little extra notice to the Soccer Mom in the SUV who
>>> is
>>> screaming at the kids, drinking a latte, and talking on the cell. No
>>> financial interest, etc, etc.
>>> See at http://www.webelectricproducts.com/products.htm
>>> Cheers
>>> Ed Townley

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Sep 20 18:21:55 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 08:21:55 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Light switch
In-Reply-To: <020D027621734D15A5C1EE2BB7C65508@LeonardPC>
References: <002f01c7fabb$b0a57410$6401a8c0@main>
	<46F12FC1.3030000@andysnet.net>
	<020D027621734D15A5C1EE2BB7C65508@LeonardPC>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709201721p4b44c511sc377dd51ab4295fb@mail.gmail.com>

Living overseas I have come to realize that Americans are the only
nationality I know of that find it acceptable to eat and drink while
walking on the street or driving.  In fact, the mainland Chinese who
are considered to have arguably the least amount of common ettiquite
in the world (no flaming please, I am half Chinese) would never find
it acceptable to eat while walking or driving...  that being said they
wouldn't think one nanosecond about cutting a line!



On 9/20/07, Leonard  Hartnett <thehartnetts at earthlink.net> wrote:
> On the way home from the All British car meet in Palo Alto (CA), while
> driving through San Francisco, I looked over and saw a woman talking on her
> cell phone.  When she looked my way, I gave her a 'thumbs down".  At the
> next stop light, she had put the phone down - and was eating a bowl of
> noodles.  I think she put the phone down.  She may have been holding it to
> her right ear with her shoulder - while eating the noodles.  They just don't
> get the message to "drive now, do those other things later".
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville,  California,  USA
> 1967 3000 MKIII, HBJ8L39031
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
> To: "Ed Townley" <healeymonster at fastwave.biz>
> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 7:18 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Light switch
>
>
> > This thread has generated a lot of ideas of how we can alert the driver
> > behind us that we are stopping. Just how far do we go in protecting
> > ourselves? Maybe we should install some warning device that no one has
> > thought of.  How about a couple dozen brake lights sequencing and
> > several red strobe lights? Seriously, talking on the cell phone while
> > driving is asking for an accident. The other day my wife and I saw
> > someone in a SUV go around two lanes of stopped traffic at a red stop
> > light and continue traveling as though nothing happened. As we drove by
> > she was busy talking on the cell phone. Don's assume people are going to
> > stop for traffic lights anymore!!!
> > Alan Schultz
> > 67BJ8
> >
> >
> > Ed Townley wrote:
> >> Just to add a bit to the Brake light thread--those of you with third
> >> lights
> >> might want to consider a pulser for the third light-- I recently
> >> installed
> >> one of these on My Wife's Miata, and it works great-- relatively
> >> inexpensive
> >> at $35 and gives a little extra notice to the Soccer Mom in the SUV who
> >> is
> >> screaming at the kids, drinking a latte, and talking on the cell. No
> >> financial interest, etc, etc.
> >> See at http://www.webelectricproducts.com/products.htm
> >> Cheers
> >> Ed Townley
> >> Southern NM, USA
> > _______________________________________________
> > thehartnetts at earthlink.net
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From rjh at hockertlaw.us  Thu Sep 20 18:57:23 2007
From: rjh at hockertlaw.us (rjhco)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 19:57:23 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Healey won't start/ now she purrs.... Speaking of Rotors
In-Reply-To: <001201c7fa6f$2ab446c0$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>
Message-ID: <20070921005724.DYKY23505.mta15.adelphia.net@RJHDESKTOP>

List:

Speaking of cracked distributor rotors, good news!  I have sourced some
reliable rotors that have been redesigned and fabricated to eliminate the
design flaws that cause the recently available rotors to fail.  

The new rotors have five significant design changes:
1.  The material out of which the body is molded contains less carbon black
(the agent that conducts the errant spark to the dizzy shaft);
2.  The location of the rivet has been moved outboard, further away from the
dizzy shaft;
3.  The installed length of the rivet is shorter.
4.  There is no spring clip inside of the rotor to attract the spark;
5.  They do not crack or fail.

I had to order 50 rotors to access the product.

There are two rotors available:

1. Lucas equivalent LU 418726, which fits Lucas distributors 25D6, 22D6,
DM6, MD6
(Big Healey six cylinder, Triumph TR250, TR6, many Jag six cylinders, Land
Rover Series IIa/III0, Big Healey BN2 with DM6)
2.  Lucas equivalent LU 40051, which fits Lucas distributors 25D4, DM2 and
some other 25D distributors
(Sprites, Midgets, Big Healey BN1 with DM2, Triumph Spitfires, vintage
Minis, some Land Rovers)


The rotors are more expensive than the ones that fail.  The new rotors are
better quality and are amortizing the new die/design costs.  They are $12.75
plus $2.25 shipping in the US.

I expect to have the shipment by the end of this month.  Contact me off list
if you are interested in purchasing a spare or two.  I am going to keep it
simple by using PayPal.

Best regards,
Jim Hockert

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Thu Sep 20 21:07:11 2007
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (James  Shope)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 20:07:11 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] wheels, again
Message-ID: <007401c7fbfc$810c5d30$5201a8c0@Jim>

did not get any response to my request for a set of original pressed wheels.
did everyone already sell the ones they had?  still need a set to use until i
can find modern ones that fit.  healeymanjim

From kt20 at dodo.com.au  Thu Sep 20 21:17:36 2007
From: kt20 at dodo.com.au (keith taylor)
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 13:17:36 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Healey won't start/ now she purrs.... Speaking of
 Rotors
References: <20070921005724.DYKY23505.mta15.adelphia.net@RJHDESKTOP>
Message-ID: <000a01c7fbfd$f56b3510$0202a8c0@Keith>

Put me down for 3    Ebay ID " ktee20 "
Thanks
Keith Taylor

70 Windsor rd,.
WAMBERAL 2260
N.S.W. Australia




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "rjhco" <rjh at hockertlaw.us>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2007 10:57 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Healey won't start/ now she purrs.... Speaking of Rotors


> List:
>
> Speaking of cracked distributor rotors, good news!  I have sourced some
> reliable rotors that have been redesigned and fabricated to eliminate the
> design flaws that cause the recently available rotors to fail.
>
> The new rotors have five significant design changes:
> 1.  The material out of which the body is molded contains less carbon 
> black
> (the agent that conducts the errant spark to the dizzy shaft);
> 2.  The location of the rivet has been moved outboard, further away from 
> the
> dizzy shaft;
> 3.  The installed length of the rivet is shorter.
> 4.  There is no spring clip inside of the rotor to attract the spark;
> 5. crack or fail.
>
> I had to order 50 rotors to access the product.
>
> There are two rotors available:
>
> 1. Lucas equivalent LU 418726, which fits Lucas distributors 25D6, 22D6,
> DM6, MD6
> (Big Healey six cylinder, Triumph TR250, TR6, many Jag six cylinders, Land
> Rover Series IIa/III0, Big Healey BN2 with DM6)
> 2.  Lucas equivalent LU 40051, which fits Lucas distributors 25D4, DM2 and
> some other 25D distributors
> (Sprites, Midgets, Big Healey BN1 with DM2, Triumph Spitfires, vintage
> Minis, some Land Rovers)
>
>
> The rotors are more expensive than the ones that fail.  The new rotors are
> better quality and are amortizing the new die/design costs.  They are 
> $12.75
> plus $2.25 shipping in the US.
>
> I expect to have the shipment by the end of this month.  Contact me off 
> list
> if you are interested in purchasing a spare or two.  I am going to keep it
> simple by using PayPal.
>
> Best regards,
> Jim Hockert
> _______________________________________________
> kt20 at dodo.com.au
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Thu Sep 20 21:39:36 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 22:39:36 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Firday Funny
Message-ID: <02a801c7fc01$08d54570$6401a8c0@toshibauser>

Its Friday Somewhere--

What is the difference between a running dog and and a running gentleman.

A running gentleman wears trousers, a dog...pants

Greg Lemon
54 BN1

From 63ahbj7 at gmail.com  Thu Sep 20 21:48:33 2007
From: 63ahbj7 at gmail.com (63AHBJ7)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 22:48:33 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Firday Funny
References: <02a801c7fc01$08d54570$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
Message-ID: <041801c7fc02$496294c0$6601a8c0@actualshop>

<<Its Friday Somewhere-->>

And yer allowed to be a Healey Owner, Greg?!?!?!?!?

2:47AM in London!!!

Oh the SHAME of it all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Anon

<G>

From loftusdesign at cox.net  Thu Sep 20 21:53:02 2007
From: loftusdesign at cox.net (John Loftus)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 20:53:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Chinese driving
Message-ID: <46F3401E.5060102@cox.net>

I've been to Shanghai twice this year. It's true they don't eat while driving .. they are too busy smoking and breaking every traffic law known to mankind! It is an interesting study in traffic
flow though ... lots of honking but no one seems to get mad at each other. I thought we were going to die many times while being driven around. Our driver only hit one pedestrian and he lived.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_G9fFEqwnM&mode=related&search=

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6prp1J1RcwU

Of course, this is not Hong Kong where things are much more civilized.



From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Light switch

Living overseas I have come to realize that Americans are the only
nationality I know of that find it acceptable to eat and drink while
walking on the street or driving.  In fact, the mainland Chinese who
are considered to have arguably the least amount of common ettiquite
in the world (no flaming please, I am half Chinese) would never find
it acceptable to eat while walking or driving...  that being said they
wouldn't think one nanosecond about cutting a line!

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Sep 21 03:04:35 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 17:04:35 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Chinese driving
In-Reply-To: <46F3401E.5060102@cox.net>
References: <46F3401E.5060102@cox.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709210204j338aa522s6fa162af7cf3b4c7@mail.gmail.com>

John -

You have to realize that 95% of the drivers in China have gotten their
driver's license within the last 3 years.

Imagine what the US would be like if you only had drivers between the
ages of 16 and 19, and all of the drivers had only received very
basic, cursory instruction (e.g. "this is the gas pedal", "stay on the
right hand side", "D is for drive," etc. etc.).  It'd probably look
about the same!

Cheers,

Alan

On 9/21/07, John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net> wrote:
> I've been to Shanghai twice this year. It's true they don't eat while driving .. they are too busy smoking and breaking every traffic law known to mankind! It is an interesting study in traffic
> flow though ... lots of honking but no one seems to get mad at each other. I thought we were going to die many times while being driven around. Our driver only hit one pedestrian and he lived.
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_G9fFEqwnM&mode=related&search=
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6prp1J1RcwU
>
> Of course, this is not Hong Kong where things are much more civilized.

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Sep 21 03:07:02 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 17:07:02 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <001301c7fb95$faac6750$4001a8c0@velad>
References: <696634.52460.qm@web54501.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<3BAF633F59C34773B7323CCDDCBF3324@LeonardPC>
	<010501c7fa3b$8b8dd0d0$021919ac@valued28addca9>
	<33910CE5-F6D5-495A-8C85-1D56B53C14A0@mac.com>
	<ff59076c0709181808v4d94771egae9e861db72238a0@mail.gmail.com>
	<1D4FC157-8F61-4EA5-A800-9D87EBAC2208@mac.com>
	<001301c7fb95$faac6750$4001a8c0@velad>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709210207x14daadacyff33c3d6d61965a0@mail.gmail.com>

That would mean if you shut the door, the lights would go out.  Sounds
about right for a Lucas wiring system!

On 9/20/07, Richard Korn <rkorn at simnet.is> wrote:
> I wonder if anyone has tried using the switch from a refridgerator door.
>
> Well it4s almost friday
>
> Richard
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Al Malin" <amalin at mac.com>
> To: "Healey Mail List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2007 11:52 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake light switch
>
>
> > The wheels keep turning just fine, however, Downy fabric softener now
> > works better than Bardahl's Instead 'O Lead.  :=)
> >
> > Al Malin
> > Tricarb
> >
> > downy fabric softener
> >
> > instead
> >
> >
> > On Sep 18, 2007, at 9:08 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
> >
> >> Does that mean when you open your door, the wheels stop turning?
> >> Just curious.
> >>
> >> Alan
> >>
> >> '52 A90
> >> '53 BN1
> >> '64 BJ8

From dcongleton at embarqmail.com  Fri Sep 21 06:05:36 2007
From: dcongleton at embarqmail.com (Dallas Congleton)
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 08:05:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Chinese driving
References: <46F3401E.5060102@cox.net>
	<ff59076c0709210204j338aa522s6fa162af7cf3b4c7@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001801c7fc47$b9dfd4c0$0201a8c0@your4dacd0ea75>

"Imagine what the US would be like if you only had drivers between the
 ages of 16 and 19, and all of the drivers had only received very
 basic, cursory instruction "
Add in a cell phone and that's exactly how I'd describe many American 
drivers now.

Dallas

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign at cox.net>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2007 5:04 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chinese driving


> John -
>
> You have to realize that 95% of the drivers in China have gotten their
> driver's license within the last 3 years.
>
> Imagine what the US would be like if you only had drivers between the
> ages of 16 and 19, and all of the drivers had only received very
> basic, cursory instruction (e.g. "this is the gas pedal", "stay on the
> right hand side", "D is for drive," etc. etc.).  It'd probably look
> about the same!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan

From BJ8Healey at msn.com  Fri Sep 21 07:33:45 2007
From: BJ8Healey at msn.com (James Sailer)
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 07:33:45 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 & BJ8 Hardtop on Ebay
Message-ID: <BAY119-DS22358EC5F68F60361B540E9BB0@phx.gbl>

I'll be interested to see what this raises.  I bought one of these for my BJ8
directly from Cape and really like it (no financial interest) ... I will be
sticking it back on in November to extend my driving season a bit until the
snow flies here in Idaho ... (thanksgiving is usually my last run around) ...
Cape found a relatively easy way to stow the soft top and fit the hardtop.
You unscrew the front and side wood trim pieces from the soft top and stow the
soft top frame almost all the way and then fold the top-side wood (still
attached to the soft top) onto the front wood (still attached to the soft top)
and then tuck the front/side into the rear top stowage area (under the soft
top metal frame while the last bar is still raised about a foot), fold the
frame the rest of the way down and then tuck the rear side wood pieces in on
the top sides of the stowage area.  It takes a little the first time to figure
this out but after that it takes little time to do.  It took me less than an
hour to remove my hardtop and re-configure the soft top for the summer.  I
suspect it will take me about the same time to reinstall it .. This should
work with any original hard top if the "J" hooks used by the Cape top are used
to hold the hardtop to the hinged area of the soft top frame.  No financial
interests here  .. just like clever things ...and passing them on ...

Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
60 Frogeye - Project in the rough
93 Land Rover Defender 110

From MBran89793 at aol.com  Fri Sep 21 08:18:49 2007
From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 10:18:49 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funnies
Message-ID: <d30.166ca1f0.34252cc9@aol.com>

Subject: The  Texan
 
As the bus  stopped and it was her turn to get on, she became aware that her 
skirt was too  tight to allow her leg to come up to the height of the first 
step of the bus.  Slightly embarrassed and with a quick smile to the bus driver, 
she reached  behind her to unzip her skirt a little, thinking that this would 
give her enough  slack to raise her leg. She tried to take the step, only to 
discover that she  couldn't.So, a little more embarrassed, she once again 
reached behind her to  unzip her skirt a little more, and for the second time 
attempted the step. Once  again, much to her chagrin, she could not raise her leg. 
With a little smile to  the driver, she again reached behind to unzip a 
little more and again was unable  to take the step.About this time, a large Texan 
who was standing behind her  picked her up easily by the waist and placed her 
gently on the step of the  bus.She went ballistic and turned to the would-be 
Samaritan and yelled, "How  dare you touch my body! I don't even know who you 
are! "The Texan smiled and  drawled, "Well, ma'am, normally I would agree with 
you, but after you unzipped  my fly three times, I kinda figured we was  
friends."


 



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From retroagogo at comcast.net  Fri Sep 21 09:20:43 2007
From: retroagogo at comcast.net (retroagogo at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 15:20:43 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] rear drum rebuild (was locked parking brake?)
Message-ID: <092120071520.6432.46F3E14B000AEAD30000192022069984990A9B9B0A0404079A019D0DD203@comcast.net>

Does anyone have a good digital photo of the inside of a rear brake setup?  I took them both apart without a photo (stupid me with a camera sitting right next to me) and want to make sure when I'm putting it back together, I am putting the springs and shoes on right on the 1960 BT7.

Thanks,
Mike

From KingR44916 at aol.com  Fri Sep 21 09:25:02 2007
From: KingR44916 at aol.com (KingR44916 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 11:25:02 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] chrome plating
Message-ID: <bf6.1e88a635.34253c4e@aol.com>

has anyone in the nj area ever used ron monte chrome plating any help would 
be appreciated



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From retroagogo at comcast.net  Fri Sep 21 12:00:18 2007
From: retroagogo at comcast.net (retroagogo at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 18:00:18 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Brakes help
Message-ID: <092120071800.10539.46F406B2000BC4F60000292B22007503300A9B9B0A0404079A019D0DD203@comcast.net>

Thanks to everyone who answered my request for pictures and offers to help walk me thru things.  Dave Maleney and Fred Wescoe sent me some great pictures.  Fred also copied the pages out of a Girling catalog/manual that had a clearer picture of how things go together compared to the old Healey manual.

Once again, thanks all for their help.

Mike

From geatros at shaw.ca  Fri Sep 21 13:01:26 2007
From: geatros at shaw.ca (geatros)
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 12:01:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Westminster six cyl. Engine
Message-ID: <000601c7fc81$cfc56770$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>

 Wanted Austin Westminster Six Cyl. Engine,or parts car with Engine running or
not In the Vancouver BC area...

From Jnhorn at aol.com  Fri Sep 21 13:06:33 2007
From: Jnhorn at aol.com (Jnhorn at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 15:06:33 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Westminster six cyl. Engine
Message-ID: <d60.124cdc4a.34257039@aol.com>

Is this the same as the 6 cyl Healey engine?
jon einhorn
BJ8




**************************************
 See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From geatros at shaw.ca  Fri Sep 21 13:28:52 2007
From: geatros at shaw.ca (geatros)
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 12:28:52 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Waetminster Engine
Message-ID: <000c01c7fc85$a4a19010$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>

Its the same as the AH 100/6 2.6 engine

Kenny

From autofarm at cyg.net  Fri Sep 21 14:55:07 2007
From: autofarm at cyg.net (Bob Yule)
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 16:55:07 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Westminster six cyl. Engine
References: <000601c7fc81$cfc56770$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>
Message-ID: <002701c7fc91$b25104a0$6400a8c0@OFFICE>

    We have a Westminster engine.  Don't know any more about it than that. 
It will turn over with a pipe wrench.  We are a long way from BC though.
Cheers.......Bob
Check out our web site www.autofarm.net
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "geatros" <geatros at shaw.ca>
To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2007 3:01 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Westminster six cyl. Engine


> Wanted Austin Westminster Six Cyl. Engine,or parts car with Engine running 
> or
> not In the Vancouver BC area...
> _______________________________________________
> autofarm at cyg.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.27/1020 - Release Date: 
> 9/20/2007 12:07 PM

From insptwo at msn.com  Fri Sep 21 15:31:24 2007
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 17:31:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] friday funny
Message-ID: <BAY106-F305AB5AA66C4DC390B10ACADBB0@phx.gbl>

>One evening a husband, thinking he was being funny, said to his
>wife "Perhaps we should start washing your clothes in Slim Fast.
>Maybe it would take a few inches off of your butt!!"
>
>His wife was not amused, and decided that she simply couldn't
>  let such a comment go unrewarded.
>
>The next morning the husband took a pair of underwear out of
>  his drawer.  "What the Hell is this??" he said to himself as a
>  little "dust" cloud appeared when he shook them out.
>
>"April," he hollered into the bathroom, "Why did you put talcum
>  powder in my underwear?"
>She replied with a snicker...
>"It's not talcum powder......
>It's 'Miracle Grow'."

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Sep 22 01:10:48 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 02:10:48 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Westminster six cyl. Engine
In-Reply-To: <d60.124cdc4a.34257039@aol.com>
References: <d60.124cdc4a.34257039@aol.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709220010h39ab5c2ag88f88f2cbcdaaee6@mail.gmail.com>

Jon -

Its the same as a 3000 block with the old two port westy head from the
BN4.  Good motors, very smooth, lots of torque, not that much
horsepower.  Gas hog!

Alan



On 9/22/07, Jnhorn at aol.com <Jnhorn at aol.com> wrote:
> Is this the same as the 6 cyl Healey engine?
> jon einhorn
> BJ8
>
>
>
>
> **************************************
>  See what's new at http://www.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Sat Sep 22 09:19:29 2007
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (Steve B. Gerow)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 08:19:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch info
Message-ID: <C31A8091.25647%steveg@abrazosdata.com>

I have purchase and install how-to info on a $2 mechanical brake light
switch on my web gallery:

http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/healey_tech

no passwords reqired

-- 
Steve Gerow
Pasadena, CA

From grain at auracom.com  Sat Sep 22 16:11:56 2007
From: grain at auracom.com (Rick Swain and Wendy Grant)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 19:11:56 -0300
Subject: [Healeys] Is anybody out there?
Message-ID: <6A8B8C30-B878-4DC4-9AA7-E1F4845C7578@auracom.com>

Haven't had any mail since yesterday. I'm suffering withdrawal. This  
just a check.

From MBran89793 at aol.com  Sat Sep 22 16:27:13 2007
From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 18:27:13 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Is anybody out there?
Message-ID: <cdc.1c99d976.3426f0c1@aol.com>

I have been suffering similar withdrawal symptoms but I thought that it was  
just me.



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Sat Sep 22 16:41:54 2007
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 08:41:54 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Is anybody out there?
In-Reply-To: <cdc.1c99d976.3426f0c1@aol.com>
References: <cdc.1c99d976.3426f0c1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000101c7fd69$c9390860$4101a8c0@ibm45xm8v45fmw>

G'day

Perhaps it was something you said?

Weekends are always quieter as one would hope we are all out enjoying our
Austin-Healeys. Me? It's Sunday in Australia and I am about to do some
painting - house that is.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+p_cquinn=tpg.com.au at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+p_cquinn=tpg.com.au at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
MBran89793 at aol.com
Sent: Sunday, 23 September 2007 8:27 AM
To: grain at auracom.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Is anybody out there?

I have been suffering similar withdrawal symptoms but I thought that it was

just me.

From rdavies1 at cox.net  Sat Sep 22 17:08:02 2007
From: rdavies1 at cox.net (Ron Davies)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 16:08:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Is anybody out there?
In-Reply-To: <6A8B8C30-B878-4DC4-9AA7-E1F4845C7578@auracom.com>
References: <6A8B8C30-B878-4DC4-9AA7-E1F4845C7578@auracom.com>
Message-ID: <005e01c7fd6d$6d3682a0$6401a8c0@OfficeDell>

It actually RAINED in southern California today.
Missed a nice car show. Cleaned the garage.
Ron Davies
67 BJ8
97 DB7

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Sep 22 17:14:56 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 07:14:56 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Is anybody out there?
In-Reply-To: <000101c7fd69$c9390860$4101a8c0@ibm45xm8v45fmw>
References: <cdc.1c99d976.3426f0c1@aol.com>
	<000101c7fd69$c9390860$4101a8c0@ibm45xm8v45fmw>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709221614n1817e0c9t1e7bfe9c369ae996@mail.gmail.com>

I'm in Macao for my birthday... Went to the new Venetian Casino and
proceeded to win $150 at the Black Jack tables in less than 30
minutes.  Take that Sam Adelson!!!

Alan


On 9/23/07, Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:
> G'day
>
> Perhaps it was something you said?
>
> Weekends are always quieter as one would hope we are all out enjoying our
> Austin-Healeys. Me? It's Sunday in Australia and I am about to do some
> painting - house that is.
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+p_cquinn=tpg.com.au at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+p_cquinn=tpg.com.au at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> MBran89793 at aol.com
> Sent: Sunday, 23 September 2007 8:27 AM
> To: grain at auracom.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Is anybody out there?
>
> I have been suffering similar withdrawal symptoms but I thought that it was
>
> just me.
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From insptwo at msn.com  Sat Sep 22 17:17:23 2007
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 19:17:23 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Is anybody out there?
In-Reply-To: <005e01c7fd6d$6d3682a0$6401a8c0@OfficeDell>
Message-ID: <BAY106-F36A19017809ED9EEBD867AADB40@phx.gbl>

I thought "It never rains in southnern California", at least that's what the 
song said!
Bill
BJ7


>From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
>Reply-To: rdavies1 at cox.net
>To: "'Rick Swain and Wendy Grant'" <grain at auracom.com>, "'Healey 
>List'"<healeys at autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Is anybody out there?
>Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 16:08:02 -0700
>
>It actually RAINED in southern California today.
>Missed a nice car show. Cleaned the garage.
>Ron Davies
>67 BJ8
>97 DB7
>_______________________________________________
>insptwo at msn.com
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From clocks at midcoast.com  Sat Sep 22 17:27:39 2007
From: clocks at midcoast.com (James Lea)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 19:27:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Late Friday Funny.
Message-ID: <001301c7fd70$2ab8ff40$0201a8c0@JIM>

Wife. Darling, I had a little accident and there is something wrong with the 
Healey. There is water in the carburetors.

Husband. Water in the carburetors? That's ridiculous.

Wife. I tell you the car has water in the carburetors!!

Husband. You don't even know what a carburetor is. I'll check it out. 
Where's the car?

Wife. In the pool.

Cheers, JL

From bj8mk3 at shaw.ca  Sat Sep 22 18:06:10 2007
From: bj8mk3 at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 17:06:10 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Idiots of the world, unite]
Message-ID: <001901c7fd75$8c3dcd90$0e02a8c0@ecarecenters.net>

Hope this gets through..definitely worth a look

 

Paul


 

 

Subject: FW: FW: Idiots of the world, unite 

  _____  



ME FIRST 
[]

And the SURGEON GENERAL says . . 
[]
Diversionary tactic.   
[]
Words of Wisdom.  
[]
A fortune to remember.   
[]
Stay off the course . . . Or else! 
[]
Not my job  

[]



DESPERATE FOR A TICKET TO THE WORLD CUP 

BEST GOOGLE AD 

FRIDGE MAGNET 


- 
QUEEN OF THE BLONDES     




  

  

 



  


 



 

 

 



 

 

 

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This electronic message transmission contains information which is
confidential, may be privileged and is intended solely for the use of the
individual to whom or entity to which it is addressed. If you are not the
intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any reading, disclosure,
copying, saving, distribution or unauthorized use of the contents of this
electronic message transmission is prohibited. If you have received this
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telephone at 1.604.661.3200 or by electronic mail and delete the original
transmission and its attachments.

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From shop at justbrits.com  Sat Sep 22 18:14:10 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 19:14:10 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Idiots of the world, unite]
References: <001901c7fd75$8c3dcd90$0e02a8c0@ecarecenters.net>
Message-ID: <020001c7fd76$aaca6e70$6601a8c0@actualshop>

<<[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
image0022.jpg]>>

NO, Paul.  And never will!!

However, if you will to join my "Joke List" made up of about 98% LBCer, my
List DOES allow attachments (and in fact, encourges same) just ask.  ALL are
welcome!!

Bob B., tell 'em<G>!!

Ed

From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net  Sat Sep 22 18:29:11 2007
From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 17:29:11 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Life of Facet fuel pump
Message-ID: <003d01c7fd79$a4f04b70$0400a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>

Well,  I went to the Ironstone car show this weekend and the Facet fuel pump
decided to not pump enough to run the car.  It has been installed for 6 years.
It seems to pump ok till it gets hot and then gets weak and won't send enough
fuel to the carbs.  Many on the list have mentioned that these pumps last for
years.  Here is a marker of how many years.  David Nock was at the show also.
He says to rebuild one of my stock pumps.  So I guess I will.

Nice show, they give you a bottle of wine and glasses.  Free breakfast and
lunch also!

Jerry
BN4
Bj8 pieces.

From fortee9er at yahoo.com  Sat Sep 22 19:03:59 2007
From: fortee9er at yahoo.com (Jorge Garcia)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 18:03:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] The Healey sound track
Message-ID: <876682.97370.qm@web54507.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I had a muffler shop cut the rear (wrap around)
mufflers on my BJ8 and replace them with two straight
pipes exiting behind the driver like on earlier
Healeys.
The exhaust note has to be the finest feature of the
car that makes driving it so enjoyable. 
What other cars do you own (or owned in the past)that
have a comparable exhaust note or an exhaust note that
made you want to drive the car just for the sound
track?
What was it MGs, Triumphs, Morgans, Jaguars, Porsche
or...? 
Best Regards
Jorge Garcia



       
____________________________________________________________________________________
Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search 
that gives answers, not web links. 
http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Sat Sep 22 19:07:36 2007
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 01:07:36 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] The Healey sound track
In-Reply-To: <876682.97370.qm@web54507.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BAY108-F334C239506AF08EEB64666C0B50@phx.gbl>

Amen!


>From: Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
>To: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
>Subject: [Healeys] The Healey sound track
>Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 18:03:59 -0700 (PDT)
>
>I had a muffler shop cut the rear (wrap around)
>mufflers on my BJ8 and replace them with two straight
>pipes exiting behind the driver like on earlier
>Healeys.
>The exhaust note has to be the finest feature of the
>car that makes driving it so enjoyable.
>What other cars do you own (or owned in the past)that
>have a comparable exhaust note or an exhaust note that
>made you want to drive the car just for the sound
>track?
>What was it MGs, Triumphs, Morgans, Jaguars, Porsche
>or...?
>Best Regards
>Jorge Garcia
>
>
>
>
>____________________________________________________________________________________
>Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search
>that gives answers, not web links.
>http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC
>_______________________________________________
>mayorrichard at hotmail.com
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

_________________________________________________________________
Gear up for Halo. 3 with free downloads and an exclusive offer. 
http://gethalo3gear.com?ocid=SeptemberWLHalo3_MSNHMTxt_1

From rdavies1 at cox.net  Sat Sep 22 19:34:12 2007
From: rdavies1 at cox.net (Ron Davies)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 18:34:12 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Is anybody out there?
In-Reply-To: <BAY106-F36A19017809ED9EEBD867AADB40@phx.gbl>
References: <005e01c7fd6d$6d3682a0$6401a8c0@OfficeDell>
	<BAY106-F36A19017809ED9EEBD867AADB40@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <006c01c7fd81$d8773cd0$6401a8c0@OfficeDell>

The song is right about no rain. It is a desert after-all.
It is unbelievably dangerous when it first rains as all the oil and rubber
come out onto the street.  Accidents are everywhere.  Same goes for skiing.
I was on Ski Patrol for 13 years.  Californians are vaguely aware of rain
but are completely unsure of what snow is.  But we've got sun, surf and USC
football! (Only problem with SC is that's where my first Healey was stolen).
:-(

Ron Davies

From fortee9er at yahoo.com  Sat Sep 22 19:41:21 2007
From: fortee9er at yahoo.com (Jorge Garcia)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 18:41:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Converting to rear disc brakes
Message-ID: <655376.3305.qm@web54504.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

What is required to convert the rear drum brakes on my
BJ8 to rear discs? What are the options? 
I'd like to hear from folks who have carried out the
conversion.
Thanks
Jorge Garcia


       
____________________________________________________________________________________
Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story. Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.
http://sims.yahoo.com/  

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sat Sep 22 20:00:52 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 21:00:52 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Movie Trivia
Message-ID: <003801c7fd85$930d7980$6401a8c0@toshibauser>

Was just watching the movie the "The Wedding Date" with the wife.  There is 
a black 3000 in the movie, or is there I was thinking it was BJ8, but as I 
watched I noticed little lip flares on the fenders, was it a replicar??

Greg Lemon
54 BN1

From insptwo at msn.com  Sat Sep 22 20:10:58 2007
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 22:10:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] The Healey sound track
In-Reply-To: <876682.97370.qm@web54507.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BAY106-F2553FBCB93F06EF4DFF456ADB50@phx.gbl>

Other than our BJ7, it was the 1954 Ford with a set of Hollywood mufflers. 
Enjoyed the hell out of the sound until the local police (rural 
Pennsylvania, where they all knew you and what you drove) made me change 
mufflers.
Bill
BJ7


>From: Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
>To: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
>Subject: [Healeys] The Healey sound track
>Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 18:03:59 -0700 (PDT)
>
>I had a muffler shop cut the rear (wrap around)
>mufflers on my BJ8 and replace them with two straight
>pipes exiting behind the driver like on earlier
>Healeys.
>The exhaust note has to be the finest feature of the
>car that makes driving it so enjoyable.
>What other cars do you own (or owned in the past)that
>have a comparable exhaust note or an exhaust note that
>made you want to drive the car just for the sound
>track?
>What was it MGs, Triumphs, Morgans, Jaguars, Porsche
>or...?
>Best Regards
>Jorge Garcia
>
>
>
>
>____________________________________________________________________________________
>Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search
>that gives answers, not web links.
>http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC
>_______________________________________________
>insptwo at msn.com
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Sep 22 20:50:52 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 10:50:52 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Is anybody out there?
In-Reply-To: <006c01c7fd81$d8773cd0$6401a8c0@OfficeDell>
References: <005e01c7fd6d$6d3682a0$6401a8c0@OfficeDell>
	<BAY106-F36A19017809ED9EEBD867AADB40@phx.gbl>
	<006c01c7fd81$d8773cd0$6401a8c0@OfficeDell>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709221950r574c2d6crcc272c1f13a8c4e9@mail.gmail.com>

Ron -

You know I'm not joking this year when I say you better watch out for
Cal football.  FYI your fight song is irritating after the first
round!!!

Alan


- Original message -
The song is right about no rain. It is a desert after

On 9/23/07, Ron Davies <rdavies1 at cox.net> wrote:
> The song is right about no rain. It is a desert after-all.
> It is unbelievably dangerous when it first rains as all the oil and rubber
> come out onto the street.  Accidents are everywhere.  Same goes for skiing.
> I was on Ski Patrol for 13 years.  Californians are vaguely aware of rain
> but are completely unsure of what snow is.  But we've got sun, surf and USC
> football! (Only problem with SC is that's where my first Healey was stolen).
> :-(
>
> Ron Davies
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From rudedoggg at earthlink.net  Sat Sep 22 21:43:54 2007
From: rudedoggg at earthlink.net (John Rued)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 21:43:54 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Is anybody out there?
References: <005e01c7fd6d$6d3682a0$6401a8c0@OfficeDell><BAY106-F36A19017809ED9EEBD867AADB40@phx.gbl><006c01c7fd81$d8773cd0$6401a8c0@OfficeDell>
	<ff59076c0709221950r574c2d6crcc272c1f13a8c4e9@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002601c7fd93$fda5a660$b9a2e404@RUDEDOG>

Folks from Nebraska are well aware of USC football.  And Ball State, I'm 
afraid.

JR


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: <rdavies1 at cox.net>; <insptwo at msn.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 8:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Is anybody out there?


> Ron -
>
> You know I'm not joking this year when I say you better watch out for
> Cal football.  FYI your fight song is irritating after the first
> round!!!
>
> Alan

From rudedoggg at earthlink.net  Sat Sep 22 21:53:12 2007
From: rudedoggg at earthlink.net (John Rued)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 21:53:12 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Movie Trivia
References: <003801c7fd85$930d7980$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
Message-ID: <002a01c7fd95$47174410$b9a2e404@RUDEDOG>

Jack Lemon, Judy Holiday, and Kim Novak:  "Pffft"  A BN1 figures very 
prominantly.

JR
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 8:00 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Movie Trivia


> Was just watching the movie the "The Wedding Date" with the wife.  There 
> is
> a black 3000 in the movie, or is there I was thinking it was BJ8, but as I
> watched I noticed little lip flares on the fenders, was it a replicar??
>
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1

From britishcars at shaw.ca  Sat Sep 22 22:25:31 2007
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2007 21:25:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] The Healey sound track
In-Reply-To: <876682.97370.qm@web54507.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <003501c7fd99$c7546910$0e02a8c0@ecarecenters.net>

I have a TR250 with twin Monza exhausts....great sound.

I also have a 67 BJ8 and did the same as you with the rear muffler.   Better
than stock but I am still looking for that smoother sound...any suggestions
out there.

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+britishcars=shaw.ca at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+britishcars=shaw.ca at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Jorge Garcia
Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 6:04 PM
To: Austin Healey
Subject: [Healeys] The Healey sound track

I had a muffler shop cut the rear (wrap around)
mufflers on my BJ8 and replace them with two straight
pipes exiting behind the driver like on earlier
Healeys.
The exhaust note has to be the finest feature of the
car that makes driving it so enjoyable. 
What other cars do you own (or owned in the past)that
have a comparable exhaust note or an exhaust note that
made you want to drive the car just for the sound
track?
What was it MGs, Triumphs, Morgans, Jaguars, Porsche
or...? 
Best Regards
Jorge Garcia



       
____________________________________________________________________________
________
Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search 
that gives answers, not web links. 
http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC
_______________________________________________
britishcars at shaw.ca 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Sun Sep 23 05:01:51 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 07:01:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] The Healey sound track
Message-ID: <380-22007902311151843@earthlink.net>

My Series 1 E-Type has a wonderful exhaust sound as does my BJ8.  Both
satisfy my need for exhaust sounds!:)

tom  


> [Original Message]
> From: Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
> To: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 9/22/2007 9:03:59 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] The Healey sound track
>
> I had a muffler shop cut the rear (wrap around)
> mufflers on my BJ8 and replace them with two straight
> pipes exiting behind the driver like on earlier
> Healeys.
> The exhaust note has to be the finest feature of the
> car that makes driving it so enjoyable. 
> What other cars do you own (or owned in the past)that
> have a comparable exhaust note or an exhaust note that
> made you want to drive the car just for the sound
> track?
> What was it MGs, Triumphs, Morgans, Jaguars, Porsche
> or...? 
> Best Regards
> Jorge Garcia
>
>
>
>        
>
____________________________________________________________________________
________
> Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search 
> that gives answers, not web links. 
> http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Sun Sep 23 05:05:18 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 07:05:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Movie Trivia
Message-ID: <380-22007902311518656@earthlink.net>

Ah--Kim Novak--one of my all time most sexy movie stars.  Picnic was made
for her.  


> [Original Message]
> From: John Rued <rudedoggg at earthlink.net>
> To: Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 9/22/2007 11:53:46 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Movie Trivia
>
> Jack Lemon, Judy Holiday, and Kim Novak:  "Pffft"  A BN1 figures very 
> prominantly.
>
> JR
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 8:00 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Healey Movie Trivia
>
>
> > Was just watching the movie the "The Wedding Date" with the wife. 
There 
> > is
> > a black 3000 in the movie, or is there I was thinking it was BJ8, but
as I
> > watched I noticed little lip flares on the fenders, was it a replicar??
> >
> > Greg Lemon
> > 54 BN1
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sun Sep 23 05:26:38 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 04:26:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Movie Trivia
In-Reply-To: <003801c7fd85$930d7980$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
Message-ID: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKKEPFDFAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>

The car is HBJ8L/32952.  The UK registration PTE-777C is visible in one
scene.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
Greg Lemon
Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 7:01 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Movie Trivia


Was just watching the movie the "The Wedding Date" with the wife.  There is
a black 3000 in the movie, or is there I was thinking it was BJ8, but as I
watched I noticed little lip flares on the fenders, was it a replicar??

Greg Lemon
54 BN1

From wericars at aol.com  Sun Sep 23 06:28:53 2007
From: wericars at aol.com (wericars at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 08:28:53 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Redline MTL
In-Reply-To: <46F2AD10.3030702@sitestar.net>
References: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKMENKDFAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>
	<8C9C945B9B7F450-E8C-48CE@webmail-da10.sysops.aol.com>
	<46F2AD10.3030702@sitestar.net>
Message-ID: <8C9CBF46FDBB35D-6BC-34C2@WEBMAIL-MA04.sysops.aol.com>

It has more friction.? This fluid has been recommended by many people whith modern cars that have developed shifting problems.? I have a case of the stuff for my Honda S2000.? I'm going to try it in the Healey.


Bill
Boston area
65 BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Russell <rusd at sitestar.net>
To: wericars at aol.com
Cc: sbyers at ec.rr.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 1:25 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Redline MTL


Hi Bill,?
?
Not to my knowledge. "Friction Modified" can mean two different things. IE more friction or less friction. The Healey transmission synchronizer rings can benefit from an oil that has more friction (less slippery) so that the synchros can grab harder & quicker when you shift. It also makes OD engagement more positive. Redline MTL & MT-90 have higher friction coefficients than some other lubes. On the other hand, motor oils usually work better with a lower friction coefficient, except during ring break in.?
?
Some more modern transmissions seem to benefit from a lube that has less friction, lower friction coefficient. I'm really not sure if the GM "Friction Modified" has a higher or lower friction coefficient than standard. If it means less friction, it would be worse in the Healey transmissions.?
?
I do know that on automatic transmission fluids, "Friction Modified" means that the lube has less friction to promote smoother shifts.?
?
Regards,?
Dave Russell?
?
wericars at aol.com wrote:?
?
>Has anyone tried GM Synchromesh Friction Modified yet??
>?
>?
>Bill?
>Boston area?
>65 BJ8?
> >?
?


________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From ahbn6 at optonline.net  Sun Sep 23 06:53:05 2007
From: ahbn6 at optonline.net (John Sims)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 08:53:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Is anybody out there?
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0709221950r574c2d6crcc272c1f13a8c4e9@mail.gmail.com>
References: <005e01c7fd6d$6d3682a0$6401a8c0@OfficeDell>
	<BAY106-F36A19017809ED9EEBD867AADB40@phx.gbl>
	<006c01c7fd81$d8773cd0$6401a8c0@OfficeDell>
	<ff59076c0709221950r574c2d6crcc272c1f13a8c4e9@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <010301c7fde0$af5da500$6500a8c0@simsoffice>

Go Bears! "Fight for California" is leaps and bounds above the boring
repetitive USC fight song that appears to have been lifted from a 50's B
movie sound track about gladiators.

John Sims, BN6 and Cal '62
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com
 


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Alan Seigrist
Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 10:51 PM
To: rdavies1 at cox.net; insptwo at msn.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Is anybody out there?

Ron -

You know I'm not joking this year when I say you better watch out for
Cal football.  FYI your fight song is irritating after the first
round!!!

Alan


- Original message -
The song is right about no rain. It is a desert after

On 9/23/07, Ron Davies <rdavies1 at cox.net> wrote:
> The song is right about no rain. It is a desert after-all.
> It is unbelievably dangerous when it first rains as all the oil and rubber
> come out onto the street.  Accidents are everywhere.  Same goes for
skiing.
> I was on Ski Patrol for 13 years.  Californians are vaguely aware of rain
> but are completely unsure of what snow is.  But we've got sun, surf and
USC
> football! (Only problem with SC is that's where my first Healey was
stolen).
> :-(

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sun Sep 23 07:16:15 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 06:16:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Laycock de Normanville Overdrive Manual
Message-ID: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKGEPIDFAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>

Someone was looking for a Laycock de Normanville overdrive manual recently.
I found one here:

http://www.tr4a.com/tech_data/laycock/overdrive.htm

Enjoy!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

From jarowe at westnet.com.au  Sun Sep 23 07:25:09 2007
From: jarowe at westnet.com.au (John Rowe)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 21:25:09 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] gearbox woes
Message-ID: <03db01c7fde5$2a729940$0200a8c0@DadP4>

Hi All

The leaks from my sideshift gearbox have been getting worse over the last year
and I decided that now was the time to remove the gearbox and sort out the
problem. Previously it was difficult to determine where exactly the oil was
leaking from as it appeared to be from a few different places.

I removed the box today and to my horror found large pieces of brass in the
overdrive strainer.

On removing the side plate there was no sign of any brass  filings in the
gearbox part.

So what is in the overdrive section that is made from brass that could be
wearing abnormally and causing these chunks of brass to come adrift?

I also noticed when the gearbox was on the bench that oil was leaking from a
small hole at the bottom of the chamber that holds the solenoid plunger
connection. On removing the cover I found the chamber was 1/4 full of oil. On
inspection of the items in there I have  reasoned that the oil must be coming
past the seal on the actuator shaft. I resume that the is a seal on this
shaft.

I also found that oil was leaking past the front seal. This seal is a high
temperature seal and was only replaced 2 years ago.

Is there too much pressure building up in the gearbox under competition
conditions and forcing the oil past these seals?

Any ideas of how to solve these problems would be greatly appreciated as I
have only a few weeks left to get the car ready for the Classic Adelaide
Rally. ( A bit like Targa Newfoundland but down under.)


regards

John Rowe
Perth
1959 BT7

From caddi5 at comcast.net  Sun Sep 23 07:25:00 2007
From: caddi5 at comcast.net (caddi5 at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 13:25:00 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] SHIPPING
Message-ID: <092320071325.27662.46F6692C000676D800006C0E2216525806CA070B0B0E0C@comcast.net>

HELLO LIST,
Anyone know a cheap way to ship a trans   &  o/d  from carlsbad ,ca. to detriot ,mi?    thanks Mitch

From jackson_krall at yahoo.com  Sun Sep 23 07:43:32 2007
From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 06:43:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] SHIPPING
In-Reply-To: <092320071325.27662.46F6692C000676D800006C0E2216525806CA070B0B0E0C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <435252.92302.qm@web52403.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I've found Greyhound Package Express to be very cost
effective. U dropoff and U pickup

Best
JK
--- caddi5 at comcast.net wrote:

> HELLO LIST,
> Anyone know a cheap way to ship a trans   &  o/d 
> from carlsbad ,ca. to detriot ,mi?    thanks Mitch
> _______________________________________________
> jackson_krall at yahoo.com 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 



       
____________________________________________________________________________________
Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.
http://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow  

From mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net  Sun Sep 23 08:39:50 2007
From: mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net (Mark and Kathy)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 10:39:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] gearbox woes
References: <03db01c7fde5$2a729940$0200a8c0@DadP4>
Message-ID: <000a01c7fdef$ab57fd70$e8348304@markl946cfrd7q>

Unfortunately the answer isn't an easy one.   Replace the seals and use an 
up to date sealant. (Hylamar etc.)     The brass parts are probably the 
sync. rings.   They wear over time since they are working against steel 
gears.
After you replace the seals  you can switch over to the Redline Mt90 fluid 
that helps in shifting.

You can upgrade to the new and improved (expensive sync. rings) to help the 
wear problem.

Good Luck,   Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Rowe" <jarowe at westnet.com.au>
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 9:25 AM
Subject: [Healeys] gearbox woes


> Hi All
>
> The leaks from my sideshift gearbox have been getting worse over the last 
> year
> and I decided that now was the time to remove the gearbox and sort out the
> problem. Previously it was difficult to determine where exactly the oil 
> was
> leaking from as it appeared to be from a few different places.
>
> I removed the box today and to my horror found large pieces of brass in 
> the
> overdrive strainer.
>
> On removing the side plate there was no sign of any brass  filings in the
> gearbox part.
>
> So what is in the overdrive section that is made from brass that could be
> wearing abnormally and causing these chunks of brass to come adrift?
>
> I also noticed when the gearbox was on the bench that oil was leaking from 
> a
> small hole at the bottom of the chamber that holds the solenoid plunger
> connection. On removing the cover I found the chamber was 1/4 full of oil. 
> On
> inspection of the items in there I have  reasoned that the oil must be 
> coming
> past the seal on the actuator shaft. I resume that the is a seal on this
> shaft.
>
> I also found that oil was leaking past the front seal. This seal is a high
> temperature seal and was only replaced 2 years ago.
>
> Is there too much pressure building up in the gearbox under competition
> conditions and forcing the oil past these seals?
>
> Any ideas of how to solve these problems would be greatly appreciated as I
> have only a few weeks left to get the car ready for the Classic Adelaide
> Rally. ( A bit like Targa Newfoundland but down under.)
>
>
> regards
>
> John Rowe
> Perth
> 1959 BT7
> _______________________________________________
> mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From pdeturck at rochester.rr.com  Sun Sep 23 10:33:32 2007
From: pdeturck at rochester.rr.com (pdeturck at rochester.rr.com)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 12:33:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] noise when braking
Message-ID: <7.0.0.16.1.20070923122603.05c199f8@rochester.rr.com>

My '66 BJ8 has developed a "clunk" whenever
I step on the brake. It is barely audible at most
forward speeds but is easily noticeable when
going in reverse. It only occurs once when the
brake is applied and is only at the right front.

I have inspected the hub and spoked wheel
and the splines look good. A mark on the wheel
and knockoff show no additional rotation after
tightening.

Suggestions on where to start looking next?

Disk brakes? Front wheel bearings (though
there is no perceptible play when raised off
the ground)?
-pd-
66 BJ8

From jstmorris at yahoo.com  Sun Sep 23 10:41:05 2007
From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 12:41:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Laycock de Normanville Overdrive Manual
In-Reply-To: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKGEPIDFAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>
Message-ID: <361332.79950.qm@web30312.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

What is presented is Section 1 "Working Principals and Notes on Maintenance and Fault Finding".  Unfortuanately, it is missing the section dealing with "Dismantling, Inspectiing and Assembling 'A' Type Overdrive" - too bad.  Someday, I must get my copy scanned and posted.
  --Scott Morris, Simcoe, Ontario, Canada;  '60 3000 MkI BN7, '62 3000 MkII BT7

BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote: << Someone was looking for a Laycock de Normanville overdrive manual recently. I found one here:
http://www.tr4a.com/tech_data/laycock/overdrive.htm   Enjoy!   Steve Byers >>


J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
       
---------------------------------
Ask a question on any topic and get answers from real people. Go to Yahoo! Answers. 

From rdavies1 at cox.net  Sun Sep 23 11:24:04 2007
From: rdavies1 at cox.net (Ron Davies)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 10:24:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Is anybody out there?
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0709221950r574c2d6crcc272c1f13a8c4e9@mail.gmail.com>
References: <005e01c7fd6d$6d3682a0$6401a8c0@OfficeDell>
	<BAY106-F36A19017809ED9EEBD867AADB40@phx.gbl>
	<006c01c7fd81$d8773cd0$6401a8c0@OfficeDell>
	<ff59076c0709221950r574c2d6crcc272c1f13a8c4e9@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002701c7fe06$8a2fdd40$6401a8c0@OfficeDell>

Alan:
Yes, Cal (another Calif. School) is very good.
The fight song is only irritating because you hear it so often, every time
we score :-)
Ron

Ron -

You know I'm not joking this year when I say you better watch out for
Cal football.  FYI your fight song is irritating after the first
round!!!

Alan

From rdavies1 at cox.net  Sun Sep 23 11:48:45 2007
From: rdavies1 at cox.net (Ron Davies)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 10:48:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Is anybody out there?
In-Reply-To: <010301c7fde0$af5da500$6500a8c0@simsoffice>
References: <005e01c7fd6d$6d3682a0$6401a8c0@OfficeDell>
	<BAY106-F36A19017809ED9EEBD867AADB40@phx.gbl>
	<006c01c7fd81$d8773cd0$6401a8c0@OfficeDell>
	<ff59076c0709221950r574c2d6crcc272c1f13a8c4e9@mail.gmail.com>
	<010301c7fde0$af5da500$6500a8c0@simsoffice>
Message-ID: <002901c7fe09$fcf0d1b0$6401a8c0@OfficeDell>

John!
You know the weather is bad when we're talking about the various merits of
school fight songs. :-)
Some of us like 40-50 year old cars and 80+ yo fight songs. You just don't
mess with success.  USC #1 Cal #6

Anyway, you can't deny we (USC) have the best mascot...
A warrior Trojan in armor with sword riding a white horse vs....(no offense
meant here to these fine schools, just a comparison of mascots IMHO)

A live, inflated or costume of a:
Duck, bear, alligator, tree, anteater, beaver, hog, artichoke, bee, sheep,
friar boy, gorilla, leprechaun, banana slug, spider etc, I can't go on. (All
found at Wikipedia) :-)
Ron Davies
SoCal
Hey, clouds clearing. Time for a ride!!



Go Bears! "Fight for California" is leaps and bounds above the boring
repetitive USC fight song that appears to have been lifted from a 50's B
movie sound track about gladiators.

John Sims, BN6 and Cal '62
Aberdeen, NJ

From gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com  Sun Sep 23 12:04:17 2007
From: gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com (Greg Wilkinson)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 11:04:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] noise when braking
In-Reply-To: <7.0.0.16.1.20070923122603.05c199f8@rochester.rr.com>
Message-ID: <GKEDJBJNDHLPKFGMKCEAAEFNDCAA.gregwilkinson@roadrunner.com>

Hi PD,
Couldn't hurt to check the shock mounting bolts.

-----Original Message-----

My '66 BJ8 has developed a "clunk" whenever
I step on the brake. It is barely audible at most
forward speeds but is easily noticeable when
going in reverse. It only occurs once when the
brake is applied and is only at the right front.

I have inspected the hub and spoked wheel
and the splines look good. A mark on the wheel
and knockoff show no additional rotation after
tightening.

Suggestions on where to start looking next?

Disk brakes? Front wheel bearings (though
there is no perceptible play when raised off
the ground)?
-pd-
66 BJ8

From Healeyguy at aol.com  Sun Sep 23 12:06:36 2007
From: Healeyguy at aol.com (Healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 14:06:36 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] gearbox woes
Message-ID: <cd1.1a29478c.3428052c@aol.com>

John
"I removed the box today and to my horror found large pieces of brass in  the
overdrive strainer." Large pieces or chunks are relative to what you call  
small.  Large pieces are probably not from the bauking (syncro)  rings.  However 
destroyed thrust washers in the sun gear or behind the  unidirectional clutch 
will leave brass actually bronze, slightly U shaped,  consistent thickness 
bits in the strainer. This also leads to a complete OD  rebuild.  The operating 
shaft in the OD has a "O" ring that should seal the  shaft to keep the oil out 
of the solenoid housing. Loose long bolts in this area  can allow a slow leak 
around the threads. The front seal tends to leak a bit if  the surface on the 
first motion shaft is damaged or the main bearing or bushing  in the back of 
the crank is bad. Also there are some seals sold that are not  quite the 
correct inside diameter and doesn't "squeeze" the shaft  enough. Looks like a tear 
down is in order.
Aloha
Perry





************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From Wilkmanracing at aol.com  Sun Sep 23 12:08:53 2007
From: Wilkmanracing at aol.com (Wilkmanracing at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 14:08:53 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 1, Issue 201
Message-ID: <d27.13c1f51e.342805b5@aol.com>

In a message dated 9/23/07 9:43:03 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
healeys-request at autox.team.net writes:

You can  upgrade to the new and improved (expensive sync. rings) to help the 
wear  problem.

Good Luck,   Mark



>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
 
Who carries these sych rings?  I had the trans on my 1961 Healey  rebuilt by 
a reputable rebuilder about 5 years ago and the shift between second  and 
third almost always results in a crunch.  Downshifting is rather  crunchy too.
 
Bill Wilkman



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From dphilippo at gtp-eng.com  Sun Sep 23 13:06:02 2007
From: dphilippo at gtp-eng.com (Drew Philippo)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 15:06:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 1, Issue 202
In-Reply-To: <mailman.13.1190570410.5564.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000001c7fe14$c9783d90$0201a8c0@MojoNixon>

Our teams season is already on the downward slide, but the GA Tech Ramblin
Wreck (a 1930 Ford Model A in white and gold) is the best mascot for the old
car lover in you and our fight song mentions drinking whiskey, a barrel of
rum, and To Hell with Georgia!. I think that it qualifies as the best fight
song around.

Go Tech!
Drew


Message: 2
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 10:48:45 -0700
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Is anybody out there?
To: "'John Sims'" <ahbn6 at optonline.net>, "'Alan Seigrist'"
	<healey.nut at gmail.com>, <insptwo at msn.com>, <healeys at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <002901c7fe09$fcf0d1b0$6401a8c0 at OfficeDell>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

John!
You know the weather is bad when we're talking about the various merits of
school fight songs. :-)
Some of us like 40-50 year old cars and 80+ yo fight songs. You just don't
mess with success.  USC #1 Cal #6

Anyway, you can't deny we (USC) have the best mascot...
A warrior Trojan in armor with sword riding a white horse vs....(no offense
meant here to these fine schools, just a comparison of mascots IMHO)

A live, inflated or costume of a:
Duck, bear, alligator, tree, anteater, beaver, hog, artichoke, bee, sheep,
friar boy, gorilla, leprechaun, banana slug, spider etc, I can't go on. (All
found at Wikipedia) :-)
Ron Davies
SoCal
Hey, clouds clearing. Time for a ride!!

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Sep 23 13:12:29 2007
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 15:12:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Re; 100 Headlamp rims
Message-ID: <20070923.151230.3212.0.dwflagg@juno.com>

I have a pair of original 100 headlamp rims in overall very good to
excellent condition. One has no dents or dings, just a couple of very
minor depressions on the rim. The other has a couple of minor dings on
the rim that can be fixed. Both have no circular distortion. Yes, they
have the rivets.  I also have a rim that just needs to be re plated. It
looks like the 100 rim, but has a smaller "tab" (riveted to the rim) and
a dimple on the opposite side where the screw hole and drainage hole are
on the 100 rim. If you know what it is (Sprite) and have an interest in
any of the items, please contact me off the list. Thanks.

Doug

From rthrift at cox.net  Sun Sep 23 13:31:20 2007
From: rthrift at cox.net (RThrift)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 12:31:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] tips on overdrive use
In-Reply-To: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKGEPIDFAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>
References: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKGEPIDFAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>
Message-ID: <20070923193104.GBMN21920.fed1rmmtao106.cox.net@fed1rmimpo01.cox.net>

   Thanks  for  the  link,  Steve!   It  answers some questions I had: it
   states  the  OD "should be operated without using the clutch pedal and
   at any throttle opening."  I wasn't sure about either of these points,
   and  had  skimmed the owners manual & workshop manuals without finding
   any such statements, so it's good to see the official answers.
   However, engaging OD while accelerating feels like I'm mistreating it,
   despite  the LdN manual saying "at any throttle position."  So, should
   I  baby it?  Can someone confirm the best way to use OD, and what kind
   of usage is detrimental?
   thanks
   Richard
   At 06:16 AM 9/23/2007 -0700, BJ8Healeys wrote:

     Someone  was  looking for a Laycock de Normanville overdrive manual
     recently.
     I found one here:
     http://www.tr4a.com/tech_data/laycock/overdrive.htm
     Enjoy!
     Steve Byers

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Sep 23 13:46:23 2007
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 15:46:23 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Non-Healey Part
Message-ID: <20070923.154624.3212.4.dwflagg@juno.com>

I have an NOS clutch release bearing for TR$/TR250 '65 -'68 and TR6 '69 0
'76. If you have an interest, please contact me off the list. 

Doug

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Sep 23 13:56:00 2007
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 12:56:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] tips on overdrive use
In-Reply-To: <20070923193104.GBMN21920.fed1rmmtao106.cox.net@fed1rmimpo01.cox.net>
References: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKGEPIDFAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>
	<20070923193104.GBMN21920.fed1rmmtao106.cox.net@fed1rmimpo01.cox.net>
Message-ID: <46F6C4D0.7090201@comcast.net>

I never use the clutch on O/D engage, even on acceleration.  On 
disengage, I give a little
clutch (an inch or so) and a little blip on the throttle--it is a 
downshift--which makes the
operation a little smoother.

I have about 160K miles on the original O/D (no rebuild).

bs


RThrift wrote:
>    Thanks  for  the  link,  Steve!   It  answers some questions I had: it
>    states  the  OD "should be operated without using the clutch pedal and
>    at any throttle opening."  I wasn't sure about either of these points,
>    and  had  skimmed the owners manual & workshop manuals without finding
>    any such statements, so it's good to see the official answers.
>    However, engaging OD while accelerating feels like I'm mistreating it,
>    despite  the LdN manual saying "at any throttle position."  So, should
>    I  baby it?  Can someone confirm the best way to use OD, and what kind
>    of usage is detrimental?
>    thanks
>    Richard
>    At 06:16 AM 9/23/2007 -0700, BJ8Healeys wrote:
>
>      Someone  was  looking for a Laycock de Normanville overdrive manual
>      recently.
>      I found one here:
>      http://www.tr4a.com/tech_data/laycock/overdrive.htm
>      Enjoy!
>      Steve Byers
> _______________________________________________
> bspidell at comcast.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>   

-- 
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

From gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com  Sun Sep 23 13:58:07 2007
From: gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com (Greg Wilkinson)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 12:58:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] tips on overdrive use
In-Reply-To: <20070923193104.GBMN21920.fed1rmmtao106.cox.net@fed1rmimpo01.cox.net>
Message-ID: <GKEDJBJNDHLPKFGMKCEAIEFODCAA.gregwilkinson@roadrunner.com>

Hi Richard,
A properly set up overdrive throttle switch will keep the overdrive from
engaging if you hit the accelerator, then the overdrive switch. Once you let
up on the pedal, the overdrive will kick in automatically. The manual says
the engagement point is about 20% throttle.

-----Original Message-----
   However, engaging OD while accelerating feels like I'm mistreating it,
   despite  the LdN manual saying "at any throttle position."  So, should
   I  baby it?  Can someone confirm the best way to use OD, and what kind
   of usage is detrimental?
   thanks
   Richard

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sun Sep 23 14:05:32 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 15:05:32 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] tips on overdrive use
References: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKGEPIDFAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>
	<20070923193104.GBMN21920.fed1rmmtao106.cox.net@fed1rmimpo01.cox.net>
Message-ID: <00b501c7fe1d$19705f50$6401a8c0@toshibauser>

I just try to ease the strain on the unit by taking my foot off the gas when 
shifting into overdrive and giving it a little gas when coming out (actually 
my throttle switch takes care of that part).  This more closely matches O/D 
speed with O/D speed as it shifts.

I have had good luck driving my TR4A with OD for about ten years with no 
mechanical problems and 8 years in the Healey with no mechanical problems 
with the O/D (probably just jinxed myself).

I use the O/D all the time even when driving in town if speeds exceed 45-50 
or so because the 100 motor doesn't really feel very happy at higher revs, 
not just on long highway cruises.

Long ago when I was first driving British cars the owner of one of the parts 
shops I frequented said the cars were happier and more dependable 
mechanically if used regularly than if they sit.  I took the advice to heart 
for my cars including the o/d unit.  Don't know if it is right, but it is 
sure more fun than leaving it sitting in the garage.

Greg Lemon
54 BN1

From gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com  Sun Sep 23 14:14:41 2007
From: gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com (Greg Wilkinson)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 13:14:41 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] The Healey sound track
In-Reply-To: <876682.97370.qm@web54507.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <GKEDJBJNDHLPKFGMKCEACEFPDCAA.gregwilkinson@roadrunner.com>

Hi Jorge,
When I made my exhaust, I did the same thing. I figured I'd try it without
the resonators and see what it was like. Easier and cheaper to add than cut
out and throw away. The mufflers I went with were Magnaflow stainless with
stainless steelwool. I posted a little video of them on youtube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iPDQ2479Knc My other favorite sounding
vehicle is my Honda Superhawk. A V-twin 996cc sportbike. I bought a spool of
stainless steelwool (about 125ft) to pack the mufflers with and welded in a
couple low restriction baffles. Engine braking is one of the sweetest
sounds. I think it sounds better than some, but not all Ducatis.

Cheers,
Greg

-----Original Message-----

I had a muffler shop cut the rear (wrap around)
mufflers on my BJ8 and replace them with two straight
pipes exiting behind the driver like on earlier
Healeys.
The exhaust note has to be the finest feature of the
car that makes driving it so enjoyable.
What other cars do you own (or owned in the past)that
have a comparable exhaust note or an exhaust note that
made you want to drive the car just for the sound
track?
What was it MGs, Triumphs, Morgans, Jaguars, Porsche
or...?
Best Regards
Jorge Garcia

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Sun Sep 23 14:28:04 2007
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Leonard  Hartnett)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 13:28:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] The Healey sound track
In-Reply-To: <876682.97370.qm@web54507.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <876682.97370.qm@web54507.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <31FF533383B94106826E5C07FEA1FB22@LeonardPC>

When I acquired my car, a PO had removed the resonators.  It sounded GREAT - 
until you went downhill in third or second gear.  Then it was a constant 
backfire.  Too annoying, especially for wife.  I put the resonators on and 
backfiring went away.  Still sounds pretty good, though.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville,  California,  USA
1967 3000 MKIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jorge Garcia" <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
To: "Austin Healey" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 6:03 PM
Subject: [Healeys] The Healey sound track


>I had a muffler shop cut the rear (wrap around)
> mufflers on my BJ8 and replace them with two straight
> pipes exiting behind the driver like on earlier
> Healeys.
> The exhaust note has to be the finest feature of the
> car that makes driving it so enjoyable.
> What other cars do you own (or owned in the past)that
> have a comparable exhaust note or an exhaust note that
> made you want to drive the car just for the sound
> track?
> What was it MGs, Triumphs, Morgans, Jaguars, Porsche
> or...?
> Best Regards
> Jorge Garcia
>
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________________
> Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search
> that gives answers, not web links.
> http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC
> _______________________________________________
> thehartnetts at earthlink.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sun Sep 23 14:38:13 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 13:38:13 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] tips on overdrive use
In-Reply-To: <GKEDJBJNDHLPKFGMKCEAIEFODCAA.gregwilkinson@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKIEPODFAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>

Greg, sorry, but I don't think that is correct.  The throttle switch does
NOT prevent the O/D from engaging, regardless of the position of the
accelerator.  It merely prevents the overdrive from being disengaged
immediately when the dash switch is turned off unless you have your foot on
the gas.

The throttle switch provides an alternative electrical path to keep the
overdrive relay coil energized independent of the dash switch, once the
relay coil is energized.
Whether the throttle switch is open or closed, when the dash switch is
selected to O/DRIVE the relay coil is energized.  If the gearshift is in 3rd
or 4th, the solenoid will be powered to operate the overdrive and does not
wait for the throttle switch to do anything.

Although I can't put my hand on the reference, somewhere I read that the
overdrive is designed to take the full torque of the engine.  But I prefer
to drive my car for maximum longevity and not maximum performance, so I tend
to take it easy on the overdrive -- backing off slightly on the gas just as
the overdrive is kicking in.  I use it more for increasing gas mileage and
reducing engine wear on long trips, rather than as an additional gear to
help beat the minivans away from the lights.

Cheers!
Steve



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
Greg Wilkinson
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 12:58 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] tips on overdrive use


Hi Richard,
A properly set up overdrive throttle switch will keep the overdrive from
engaging if you hit the accelerator, then the overdrive switch. Once you let
up on the pedal, the overdrive will kick in automatically. The manual says
the engagement point is about 20% throttle.
.

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Sun Sep 23 14:42:22 2007
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 13:42:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Laycock de Normanville Overdrive Manual
In-Reply-To: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKGEPIDFAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>
Message-ID: <987747.22309.qm@web37913.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Thanks Steve - good to have on file.

Robert.

--- BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:

> Someone was looking for a Laycock de Normanville
> overdrive manual recently.
> I found one here:
> 
> http://www.tr4a.com/tech_data/laycock/overdrive.htm
> 
> Enjoy!
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
> _______________________________________________
> rnbmail at yahoo.com 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 


                      Robert Blair
  rnbmail at yahoo.com

   
  















      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Catch up on fall's hot new shows on Yahoo! TV. Watch previews, get listings, and more!
http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/3658 

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Sep 23 14:42:20 2007
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 16:42:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Valve Grinding Tool Handle
Message-ID: <20070923.164221.1832.1.dwflagg@juno.com>

I have a 100 valve grinding tool handle that someone may want for
reference. It has a few  teeth marks that our dog made some years back.
I'll pack it in a padded envelope and ship. Let me know, off the list, if
interested. Thanks.
 
Doug

From rhss at neo.rr.com  Sun Sep 23 14:47:10 2007
From: rhss at neo.rr.com (Bob Sturdevant)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 16:47:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] [Fwd: FW: Night Heron]
Message-ID: <46F6D0CE.3020004@neo.rr.com>

   -------- Original Message --------

   Subject: FW: Night Heron
      Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 16:16:15 -0400
      From: Erica Anderson <Eanderson at asihhi.com>
        To: rhss at neo.rr.com

   Sample  of  signs  for  Night  Heron  including price of $65 each, not
   including installation costs.   Let me know if you would like to order
   them.

   Regards,

   Erica Anderson

   Association Manager

   Island Regime Management

   An Associa Member Company

   19 Pope Avenue Executive Park Rd.

   Hilton Head Island, SC 29928

   (843) 785-9223 office

   (843) 785-3179 fax

   www.asihhi.com

   Associa- the Nation's Leader In Community Association Managment

   ______________________________________________________________________

   From: Graphicscorp at aol.com [mailto:Graphicscorp at aol.com]
   Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 4:17 PM
   To: Erica Anderson
   Subject: Re: Night Heron

   See the attached proof and price. This is for multiple units, not one.
   This  is  a thicker, stronger material than what is there now and will
   last longer. numbers are reflective vinyl.
   Cal Ellington
   Graphics Corporation
   Hilton Head Island, SC
   843-681-4710 phone
   843-681-4087 fax
   **************************************
   See what's new at http://www.aol.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of NIGHT HERON.jpg]

From schauss at worldnet.att.net  Sun Sep 23 14:55:09 2007
From: schauss at worldnet.att.net (Peter Schauss)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 16:55:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch master cylinder failure
Message-ID: <20070923205522.BDC331879CA@autox.team.net>

My clutch master cylinder has suddenly started leaking through the seal
where the pushrod enters the body.  This event happened shortly after I
moved the driver's seat forward on notch.  Is it possible that it was the
result of my pushing harder on the clutch?

I last replaced the master cylinder about 10 years ago (31k miles).

Thanks,
Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB 

From 61bt7 at comcast.net  Sun Sep 23 15:15:53 2007
From: 61bt7 at comcast.net (Grotenhuis)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 17:15:53 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <23866201.1353791190127142132.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web04-z01>
References: <23866201.1353791190127142132.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web04-z01>
Message-ID: <03fb01c7fe26$ecae3280$660fa8c0@code1.emi.philips.com>

Steve,

I had the same problem and same symptoms.  I eliminated the electrical
causes and made the same checks of the operating valve orifices, and also
found them unplugged.  Rapping the OD housing from underneath at the seam
behind the drain plug usually released the brake ring, but the car wouldn't
roll backwards in neutral until it disengaged.  During the overhaul, I found
several weakened brake ring return springs that were 1-5 mm shorter than the
new ones I had ordered.  After replacing all of them, it disengaged
perfectly.

Neal
"61 BT7

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+61bt7=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+61bt7=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
sbyers at ec.rr.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 10:52 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive problem

Hello, Healeyphiles -

My BJ8 has developed a problem in the overdrive, and I would like to survey
the wisdom of the list before getting too deeply into troubleshooting.

The overdrive is failing to disengage SOMETIMES when I turn it off, although
when stuck it will disengage itself after some delay (minutes, hours, or
days) after I switch off the engine.   Overdrive engagement is normal and
immediate whenever I turn on the dash switch in 3rd or 4th gear.  The
complete history of this intermittent problem is too long to relate here,
but when it occurs the car cannot be pushed backwards in neutral, and it
will eventually clear itself.  With the Lempert diff and stuck in overdrive,
the car becomes very sluggish to move away from a stop in first gear.

Any ideas, or anyone else had this problem?

Thanks,
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Sep 23 16:29:34 2007
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 18:29:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Magazines
Message-ID: <20070923.183026.2492.6.dwflagg@juno.com>

I have the following available:

1) Austin Healey Magazine - March '00

2) Thoroughbred & Classic Cars - July '83, November '83 

3) Thoroughbred & Classic Cars - February '84

4) Thoroughbred & Classic Cars - March '87 Full story on the Healey
Silverstone

5) Classic & Sport Car - April '97 MGC: bargain Healey beater

If you have an interest, please contact me off the list. Thanks.

Regards,

Doug

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Sep 23 16:36:35 2007
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 15:36:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] The Healey sound track
In-Reply-To: <GKEDJBJNDHLPKFGMKCEACEFPDCAA.gregwilkinson@roadrunner.com>
References: <GKEDJBJNDHLPKFGMKCEACEFPDCAA.gregwilkinson@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <46F6EA73.6000206@comcast.net>

Does anybody know if the BJ8 "resonators" are a true resonator design (with
tuned chambers) or just secondary glass packs or "standard" mufflers?

I know the front mufflers on an Ansa are just glass packs, and not very good
ones at that.


bs

***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Sep 23 16:40:28 2007
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 15:40:28 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch master cylinder failure
In-Reply-To: <20070923205522.BDC331879CA@autox.team.net>
References: <20070923205522.BDC331879CA@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <46F6EB5C.2090901@comcast.net>

re:
"Is it possible that it was the result of my pushing harder on the clutch?"

Not likely.  Pure coincidence, I'd guess.

bs



Peter Schauss wrote:
> My clutch master cylinder has suddenly started leaking through the seal
> where the pushrod enters the body.  This event happened shortly after I
> moved the driver's seat forward on notch.  Is it possible that it was the
> result of my pushing harder on the clutch?
>
> I last replaced the master cylinder about 10 years ago (31k miles).
>
> Thanks,
> Peter Schauss
> 1963 BJ7
> 1980 MGB 
> _______________________________________________
> bspidell at comcast.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>   

-- 
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

From geatros at shaw.ca  Sun Sep 23 16:52:11 2007
From: geatros at shaw.ca (geatros)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 15:52:11 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] The Healey sound track
Message-ID: <000c01c7fe34$60c47230$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>

The BJ8 resonators are just glass packs. I've restuffed with fiberglass and
welded the resonators {mufflers} back up when I've torn them open  in the past
and they worked fine........

Kenny

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Sun Sep 23 16:53:50 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 18:53:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] noise when braking
Message-ID: <380-220079023225350515@earthlink.net>

Splines in the hub and/or wheel are worn pretty badly.  I had it on my BJ8.
Splines were pretty bad.

Tom  


> [Original Message]
> From: <pdeturck at rochester.rr.com>
> To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 9/23/2007 12:33:35 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] noise when braking
>
> My '66 BJ8 has developed a "clunk" whenever
> I step on the brake. It is barely audible at most
> forward speeds but is easily noticeable when
> going in reverse. It only occurs once when the
> brake is applied and is only at the right front.
>
> I have inspected the hub and spoked wheel
> and the splines look good. A mark on the wheel
> and knockoff show no additional rotation after
> tightening.
>
> Suggestions on where to start looking next?
>
> Disk brakes? Front wheel bearings (though
> there is no perceptible play when raised off
> the ground)?
> -pd-
> 66 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Sun Sep 23 16:55:00 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 18:55:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] noise when braking
Message-ID: <380-22007902322550921@earthlink.net>

Well---maybe I should have read your whole post b/4 replying.  If not the
splines, then ????.

tom


> [Original Message]
> From: <pdeturck at rochester.rr.com>
> To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 9/23/2007 12:33:35 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] noise when braking
>
> My '66 BJ8 has developed a "clunk" whenever
> I step on the brake. It is barely audible at most
> forward speeds but is easily noticeable when
> going in reverse. It only occurs once when the
> brake is applied and is only at the right front.
>
> I have inspected the hub and spoked wheel
> and the splines look good. A mark on the wheel
> and knockoff show no additional rotation after
> tightening.
>
> Suggestions on where to start looking next?
>
> Disk brakes? Front wheel bearings (though
> there is no perceptible play when raised off
> the ground)?
> -pd-
> 66 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Sun Sep 23 17:00:35 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 18:00:35 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] noise when braking
In-Reply-To: <380-22007902322550921@earthlink.net>
References: <380-22007902322550921@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <002601c7fe35$8eef55c0$acce0140$@com>

Could be trans mount.

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+wsthompson=thicko.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+wsthompson=thicko.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Tom Felts
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 5:55 PM
To: pdeturck at rochester.rr.com; Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] noise when braking

Well---maybe I should have read your whole post b/4 replying.  If not the
splines, then ????.

tom


> [Original Message]
> From: <pdeturck at rochester.rr.com>
> To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 9/23/2007 12:33:35 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] noise when braking
>
> My '66 BJ8 has developed a "clunk" whenever
> I step on the brake. It is barely audible at most
> forward speeds but is easily noticeable when
> going in reverse. It only occurs once when the
> brake is applied and is only at the right front.
>
> I have inspected the hub and spoked wheel
> and the splines look good. A mark on the wheel
> and knockoff show no additional rotation after
> tightening.
>
> Suggestions on where to start looking next?
>
> Disk brakes? Front wheel bearings (though
> there is no perceptible play when raised off
> the ground)?
> -pd-
> 66 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
_______________________________________________
wsthompson at thicko.com 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Sep 23 17:16:09 2007
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 19:16:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Model
Message-ID: <20070923.191609.3804.0.dwflagg@juno.com>

I found an old Healey 3000 model by The Lindberg Line. It is a bit beat
up, but the body and interior seem to be OK. I'll send to any who is
interested. Please contact me off the list. Thanks.

Regards,

Doug

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Sep 23 17:18:05 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 07:18:05 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] noise when braking
In-Reply-To: <7.0.0.16.1.20070923122603.05c199f8@rochester.rr.com>
References: <7.0.0.16.1.20070923122603.05c199f8@rochester.rr.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709231618g7f963091y55808f173028c3dd@mail.gmail.com>

This is an easy one.

Check your shock mount bolts.  If tight then check the lower link
pins/nuts that connect the kingpin to the lower A-arm.  If one of the
bolts has come loose or fallen out,  you will get this symptom.  If
this is the case this can be very dangerous.  Do not drive your car
until you figure it out.

Alan



On 9/24/07, pdeturck at rochester.rr.com <pdeturck at rochester.rr.com> wrote:
> My '66 BJ8 has developed a "clunk" whenever
> I step on the brake. It is barely audible at most
> forward speeds but is easily noticeable when
> going in reverse. It only occurs once when the
> brake is applied and is only at the right front.
>
> I have inspected the hub and spoked wheel
> and the splines look good. A mark on the wheel
> and knockoff show no additional rotation after
> tightening.
>
> Suggestions on where to start looking next?
>
> Disk brakes? Front wheel bearings (though
> there is no perceptible play when raised off
> the ground)?
> -pd-
> 66 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Sep 23 17:28:21 2007
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 19:28:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Distributor Cap
Message-ID: <20070923.192822.3804.1.dwflagg@juno.com>

I have an excellent used original Lucas distributor cap 422904. My Lucas
Equipment manual for 1948 - 1962 shows 422905 as having an application
for the Sprite and MGA 1600 & MK II. This looks the same and may have
been the predecessor to the 905. If you know or have an interest, please
contact me off the list. Thanks.

Doug

PS. I can almost walk into my computer room now without tripping over a
Healey part!!

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Sep 23 17:42:15 2007
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 16:42:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] The Healey sound track
In-Reply-To: <000c01c7fe34$60c47230$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>
References: <000c01c7fe34$60c47230$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>
Message-ID: <46F6F9D7.3010509@comcast.net>

Kenny,

What kind of fiberglass do you use?  Off-the-shelf, or is there a 
special (high-heat?)
type for mufflers?

bs



geatros wrote:
> The BJ8 resonators are just glass packs. I've restuffed with fiberglass and
> welded the resonators {mufflers} back up when I've torn them open  in the past
> and they worked fine........
>
> Kenny
> _______________________________________________
> bspidell at comcast.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>   

-- 
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

From frogeye at swcp.com  Sun Sep 23 17:46:56 2007
From: frogeye at swcp.com (david porter)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 17:46:56 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch master cylinder failure
In-Reply-To: <46F6EB5C.2090901@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <200709232347.l8NNl7kt046124@ame7.swcp.com>

I'd disagree here. If one changes the distance the piston is moved it is
very likely that crude from the ten year lack of maintenance was pushed
under the lip of the cone seal and has now started to leak, but it could be
coincidental too.
Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+frogeye=swcp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+frogeye=swcp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Spidell
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 4:40 PM
To: Peter Schauss
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch master cylinder failure

re:
"Is it possible that it was the result of my pushing harder on the clutch?"

Not likely.  Pure coincidence, I'd guess.

bs



Peter Schauss wrote:
> My clutch master cylinder has suddenly started leaking through the seal
> where the pushrod enters the body.  This event happened shortly after I
> moved the driver's seat forward on notch.  Is it possible that it was the
> result of my pushing harder on the clutch?
>
> I last replaced the master cylinder about 10 years ago (31k miles).
>
> Thanks,
> Peter Schauss
> 1963 BJ7
> 1980 MGB 
> _______________________________________________
> bspidell at comcast.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>   

-- 
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************
_______________________________________________
frogeye at swcp.com 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.28/1023 - Release Date: 9/22/2007
1:27 PM
 

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.28/1023 - Release Date: 9/22/2007
1:27 PM

From frogeye at swcp.com  Sun Sep 23 17:50:20 2007
From: frogeye at swcp.com (david porter)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 17:50:20 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch master cylinder failure
In-Reply-To: <200709232347.l8NNl7kt046124@ame7.swcp.com>
Message-ID: <200709232350.l8NNoVmT047159@ame7.swcp.com>

Sorry, should read 'crud' not crude...

 

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.28/1023 - Release Date: 9/22/2007
1:27 PM

From geatros at shaw.ca  Sun Sep 23 18:06:02 2007
From: geatros at shaw.ca (geatros)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 17:06:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] The Healey sound track
References: <000c01c7fe34$60c47230$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>
	<46F6F9D7.3010509@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000301c7fe3e$b219c810$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>

I looked on the internet and I found that Glass packs uesd common 
constuction fiberglass. I put a torch flame to a bit of it and it just 
melted .I did pack the muffler very tightly with the fiberglass.....seems to 
work .


Kenny

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: "geatros" <geatros at shaw.ca>
Cc: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 4:42 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] The Healey sound track


> Kenny,
>
> What kind of fiberglass do you use?  Off-the-shelf, or is there a special 
> (high-heat?)
> type for mufflers?
>
> bs
>
>
>
> geatros wrote:
>> The BJ8 resonators are just glass packs. I've restuffed with fiberglass 
>> and
>> welded the resonators {mufflers} back up when I've torn them open  in the 
>> past
>> and they worked fine........
>>
>> Kenny
>> _______________________________________________
>> bspidell at comcast.net
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>>
>
> -- 
> ***************************************************************
> Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
> '67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
> ***************************************************************

From geatros at shaw.ca  Sun Sep 23 18:22:53 2007
From: geatros at shaw.ca (geatros)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 17:22:53 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Movie Trivia
References: <003801c7fd85$930d7980$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
Message-ID: <000001c7fe41$e5c91b40$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>

I think the Healey in the movie "The Wedding Date" is a HMC Sportscar like a 
BJ8. Made in England With a Rover V8 and a 5 speed gearbox. Google HMC 
Sportscars if you want to have a look......I believe HMC stands for Healey 
Motor Company.

Cheers
Kenny

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 7:00 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Movie Trivia


> Was just watching the movie the "The Wedding Date" with the wife.  There 
> is
> a black 3000 in the movie, or is there I was thinking it was BJ8, but as I
> watched I noticed little lip flares on the fenders, was it a replicar??
>
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1
> _______________________________________________
> geatros at shaw.ca
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Sun Sep 23 18:29:02 2007
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 20:29:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] noise when braking
Message-ID: <a06200704c31cb4653164@[192.168.0.100]>

I had this problem, while driving with new wheels and splines.....I 
remember posting my experience to the list, and was surprised that 
nobody commented.
It turned out to be the brake pads - the hole that the pins pass 
through can become oval over time, and the clunk I was hearing was 
the shift of the pads over the pins...easy to fix, and a lot cheaper 
than new wheels or splines!

Stephen,
BJ8

From geatros at shaw.ca  Sun Sep 23 18:38:12 2007
From: geatros at shaw.ca (geatros)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 17:38:12 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Movie Trivia
References: <003801c7fd85$930d7980$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
Message-ID: <000301c7fe43$3029acd0$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>

My mistake HMC stands for Holmes Motor Company.

Kenny
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 7:00 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Movie Trivia


> Was just watching the movie the "The Wedding Date" with the wife.  There 
> is
> a black 3000 in the movie, or is there I was thinking it was BJ8, but as I
> watched I noticed little lip flares on the fenders, was it a replicar??
>
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1
> _______________________________________________
> geatros at shaw.ca
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From michaelgladwin at mac.com  Sun Sep 23 18:45:57 2007
From: michaelgladwin at mac.com (Michael Gladwin)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 20:45:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] REQUEST FOR ADVICE
Message-ID: <8A04D8BD-9ABF-4248-9B4A-12B82A5FE09D@mac.com>

Does anyone have experience of using Bilsteins or Putzes Fahrpass?

Anyone have any experience of parabolic leaf springs?  MGB's use them  
to great effect, would the same be true of AH3000?

Any suspension advice appreciated, screw the concours, I'm going for  
performance and comfort

Mike Gladwin
3000 tricarb

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Sep 23 19:10:09 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 09:10:09 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] SHIPPING
In-Reply-To: <092320071325.27662.46F6692C000676D800006C0E2216525806CA070B0B0E0C@comcast.net>
References: <092320071325.27662.46F6692C000676D800006C0E2216525806CA070B0B0E0C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709231810k238f1c27hc75e23207948757a@mail.gmail.com>

UPS ground is about 50 dollars if I recall, as long as it's under 75 lbs.



On 9/23/07, caddi5 at comcast.net <caddi5 at comcast.net> wrote:
> HELLO LIST,
> Anyone know a cheap way to ship a trans   &  o/d  from carlsbad ,ca. to
> detriot ,mi?    thanks Mitch
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Sep 23 19:17:46 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 09:17:46 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Is anybody out there?
In-Reply-To: <002901c7fe09$fcf0d1b0$6401a8c0@OfficeDell>
References: <005e01c7fd6d$6d3682a0$6401a8c0@OfficeDell>
	<BAY106-F36A19017809ED9EEBD867AADB40@phx.gbl>
	<006c01c7fd81$d8773cd0$6401a8c0@OfficeDell>
	<ff59076c0709221950r574c2d6crcc272c1f13a8c4e9@mail.gmail.com>
	<010301c7fde0$af5da500$6500a8c0@simsoffice>
	<002901c7fe09$fcf0d1b0$6401a8c0@OfficeDell>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709231817j12f39675l2fdf91d53fc8d4de@mail.gmail.com>

Yes, but Oski from Cal has an annual tradition of doing a running
tackle on the Stanford Tree, pummeling him to the ground and ripping
off his ornaments.  Oh yeah, I forgot, Oski drinks beer from his eye
too.


On 9/24/07, Ron Davies <rdavies1 at cox.net> wrote:
> John!
> You know the weather is bad when we're talking about the various merits of
> school fight songs. :-)
> Some of us like 40-50 year old cars and 80+ yo fight songs. You just don't
> mess with success.  USC #1 Cal #6
>
> Anyway, you can't deny we (USC) have the best mascot...
> A warrior Trojan in armor with sword riding a white horse vs....(no offense
> meant here to these fine schools, just a comparison of mascots IMHO)
>
> A live, inflated or costume of a:
> Duck, bear, alligator, tree, anteater, beaver, hog, artichoke, bee, sheep,
> friar boy, gorilla, leprechaun, banana slug, spider etc, I can't go on. (All
> found at Wikipedia) :-)
> Ron Davies
> SoCal
> Hey, clouds clearing. Time for a ride!!
>
>
>
> Go Bears! "Fight for California" is leaps and bounds above the boring
> repetitive USC fight song that appears to have been lifted from a 50's B
> movie sound track about gladiators.
>
> John Sims, BN6 and Cal '62
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From AAHealeyguy at aol.com  Sun Sep 23 19:41:10 2007
From: AAHealeyguy at aol.com (AAHealeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 21:41:10 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Stator Tube & Trafficator Question
Message-ID: <d27.13c8af15.34286fb6@aol.com>

Hi gang,   I have a 1957 100/6 BN4 and recently rebuilt the trafficator and 
replaced it into the steering cloumn.   My problem is re-installing the olive 
on the stator tube at the other end of the steering column.   Is the stator 
tube supposed to stick out of the end plate nipple just a litte, so that I can 
insert the olive onto it??  It does not on mine.    
I installed the olive into the nipple hole (that the stator tube was not 
sticking out of) then installed and tightened the nut...... and munched/crushed 
the olive.  Had to buy a new one.
I was told that I need to install the olive onto the end of the stator tube.  
I cannot seem to get the stator tube to protrude out the end of the end plate 
nipple.   Any suggestions or what might I be doing wrong.     And  YES my 
steering box oil just pours out. 

Thanks for any input.
Gerry K (in San Diego)   


**************************************
 See what's 
new at http://www.aol.com

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Sun Sep 23 20:00:03 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 22:00:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] The Healey sound track
Message-ID: <380-220079124203203@earthlink.net>

Well---I hope they(main mufflers) are good as I spent $750 for an ANSA
system 6 years ago.  The resonators have already developed small holes in
them, but  main mufflers still working well.

Tom  


> [Original Message]
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> To: Greg Wilkinson <gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com>
> Cc: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 9/23/2007 6:36:49 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] The Healey sound track
>
> Does anybody know if the BJ8 "resonators" are a true resonator design
(with
> tuned chambers) or just secondary glass packs or "standard" mufflers?
>
> I know the front mufflers on an Ansa are just glass packs, and not very
good
> ones at that.
>
>
> bs
>
> ***************************************************************
> Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
> '67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
> ***************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Sun Sep 23 20:03:05 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 22:03:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] noise when braking
Message-ID: <380-220079124235781@earthlink.net>

I've had that too, but it doesn't sound like a "clunk". More like a little
"tic".  If it is really a clunk, my money is still on worn splines.  


> [Original Message]
> From: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 9/23/2007 8:29:25 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] noise when braking
>
> I had this problem, while driving with new wheels and splines.....I 
> remember posting my experience to the list, and was surprised that 
> nobody commented.
> It turned out to be the brake pads - the hole that the pins pass 
> through can become oval over time, and the clunk I was hearing was 
> the shift of the pads over the pins...easy to fix, and a lot cheaper 
> than new wheels or splines!
>
> Stephen,
> BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From thewalkers at qwest.net  Sun Sep 23 20:14:46 2007
From: thewalkers at qwest.net (the walkers)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 19:14:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Movie Trivia
In-Reply-To: <002a01c7fd95$47174410$b9a2e404@RUDEDOG>
References: <003801c7fd85$930d7980$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
	<002a01c7fd95$47174410$b9a2e404@RUDEDOG>
Message-ID: <46F71D96.2090506@qwest.net>

Soooo, is this old info or not....

I was watching Bullet for the umpteenth time the other night, and 
noticed as Bullet (Steve McQueen) is crossing he street he walks behind 
a (white?) Healey with the top down (I think.)  The Healey is parked as 
the first car on the right side going uphill from an intersection (try 
to figure that out.)   I watched this a few weeks ago, so the memory is 
not clear - but I am certain it is before the big chase scene.

Anyone notice this?

bob walker
phoenix, az


John Rued wrote:

>Jack Lemon, Judy Holiday, and Kim Novak:  "Pffft"  A BN1 figures very 
>prominantly.
>
>JR
>----- Original Message ----- 
>From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
>To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 8:00 PM
>Subject: [Healeys] Healey Movie Trivia
>
>
>  
>
>>Was just watching the movie the "The Wedding Date" with the wife.  There 
>>is
>>a black 3000 in the movie, or is there I was thinking it was BJ8, but as I
>>watched I noticed little lip flares on the fenders, was it a replicar??
>>
>>Greg Lemon
>>54 BN1
>>    
>>
>_______________________________________________
>thewalkers at qwest.net 
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From trhouse at greenapple.com  Sun Sep 23 22:02:18 2007
From: trhouse at greenapple.com (Tom Householder)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 00:02:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Help in  Decorah Iowa!
Message-ID: <C31CAF0A.110C%trhouse@greenapple.com>

Any British folks in thus neighborhood???

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Sun Sep 23 22:12:57 2007
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 00:12:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Stator Tube & Trafficator Question
References: <d27.13c8af15.34286fb6@aol.com>
Message-ID: <015301c7fe61$302cbe70$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>

Gerry,

Sounds like the stator tube is too short for some reason. If its whole, it 
should stick out throught he steering box about 1 1/2", the olive (or 
ferrule) should slide over it and push up to the end of the external thread 
on the box and the nut lock everything into place.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AAHealeyguy at aol.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 9:41 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Stator Tube & Trafficator Question


> Hi gang,   I have a 1957 100/6 BN4 and recently rebuilt the trafficator 
> and
> replaced it into the steering cloumn.   My problem is re-installing the 
> olive
> on the stator tube at the other end of the steering column.   Is the 
> stator
> tube supposed to stick out of the end plate nipple just a litte, so that I 
> can
> insert the olive onto it??  It does not on mine.
> I installed the olive into the nipple hole (that the stator tube was not
> sticking out of) then installed and tightened the nut...... and 
> munched/crushed
> the olive.  Had to buy a new one.
> I was told that I need to install the olive onto the end of the stator 
> tube.
> I cannot seem to get the stator tube to protrude out the end of the end 
> plate
> nipple.   Any suggestions or what might I be doing wrong.     And  YES my
> steering box oil just pours out.
>
> Thanks for any input.
> Gerry K (in San Diego)
>
>
> **************************************
> See what's
> new at http://www.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Sep 23 22:39:19 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 12:39:19 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Stator Tube & Trafficator Question
In-Reply-To: <d27.13c8af15.34286fb6@aol.com>
References: <d27.13c8af15.34286fb6@aol.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709232139u5f0d456eyc82bd68bf2a25019@mail.gmail.com>

Do you have adjustable steering on your healey?  If so, you have to
dig in there and pull it out.

Alan

On 9/24/07, AAHealeyguy at aol.com <AAHealeyguy at aol.com> wrote:
> Hi gang,   I have a 1957 100/6 BN4 and recently rebuilt the trafficator and
> replaced it into the steering cloumn.   My problem is re-installing the olive
> on the stator tube at the other end of the steering column.   Is the stator
> tube supposed to stick out of the end plate nipple just a litte, so that I can
> insert the olive onto it??  It does not on mine.
> I installed the olive into the nipple hole (that the stator tube was not
> sticking out of) then installed and tightened the nut...... and munched/crushed
> the olive.  Had to buy a new one.
> I was told that I need to install the olive onto the end of the stator tube.
> I cannot seem to get the stator tube to protrude out the end of the end plate
> nipple.   Any suggestions or what might I be doing wrong.     And  YES my
> steering box oil just pours out.
>
> Thanks for any input.
> Gerry K (in San Diego)

From wilaby at bellsouth.net  Mon Sep 24 03:43:50 2007
From: wilaby at bellsouth.net (John Cope)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 05:43:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Stator Tube & Trafficator Question
References: <d27.13c8af15.34286fb6@aol.com>
Message-ID: <002501c7fe8f$69c69970$6500a8c0@OPS.local>

Gerry:

The olive is designed to create a seal with the tube and box to prevent the
oil leakage.  If you don't see trafficator tube sticking out then either the
trafficator is not fully seated on the coulumn or the tube is too short.

John
62BT7

From rdavies1 at cox.net  Mon Sep 24 07:39:19 2007
From: rdavies1 at cox.net (Ron Davies)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 06:39:19 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] REQUEST FOR ADVICE
In-Reply-To: <8A04D8BD-9ABF-4248-9B4A-12B82A5FE09D@mac.com>
References: <8A04D8BD-9ABF-4248-9B4A-12B82A5FE09D@mac.com>
Message-ID: <009d01c7feb0$4f4e01c0$6401a8c0@OfficeDell>

Does anyone have experience of using Bilsteins or Putzes Fahrpass?
---------

Yes to both! Amazing difference in ride and handling, especially cornering
over ditches or bumps. Worth every penny. Highly recommended.
No financial interest.
Ron Davies
SoCal
67 BJ8
97 DB7

From rdavies1 at cox.net  Mon Sep 24 07:43:20 2007
From: rdavies1 at cox.net (Ron Davies)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 06:43:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] The Healey sound track
In-Reply-To: <000301c7fe3e$b219c810$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>
References: <000c01c7fe34$60c47230$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc><46F6F9D7.3010509@comcast.net>
	<000301c7fe3e$b219c810$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>
Message-ID: <009e01c7feb0$dea9aef0$6401a8c0@OfficeDell>

I looked on the internet and I found that Glass packs uesd common 
constuction fiberglass. 

-------------------
I had glass packs on my 64 BJ8 back in 1965.  Great sound!
I now care about my neighbors when I leave for shows at 0630 so I have a
Moss stainless muffler system on my current BJ8.  Doesn't sound nearly as
robust but I'm not waking anyone up either.
Ron Davies
Socal
67 BJ8
97 DB7

From JNBrashear at garverengineers.com  Mon Sep 24 08:01:57 2007
From: JNBrashear at garverengineers.com (Brashear, Jack, N)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 09:01:57 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Converting to rear disc brakes
In-Reply-To: <655376.3305.qm@web54504.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2D0989D186D44349BE853EE6CFC87AE6035A1AA8@glitas07.garverinc.local>

Hi Jorge, my rear brakes (BT7 Mk2) are disks from a Cad ElDorado.
There's way too much to type about here, but some of the GM parts you
would need are pretty hard to find these days.  Other than that it's a
pretty simple conversion if you turn your own wrenches and don't mind
fabricating a few fiddly little pieces.  You'll need to put a brake
balance valve in the hydraulic line to the rear as those big disks will
lock up quickly if you don't.  Also, I added a street rod brake booster.
There are other conversions out there which may be more appealing to you
but mine was relatively cheap dollars.
Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+jnbrashear=garverengineers.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+jnbrashear=garverengineers.com at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jorge Garcia
Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 8:41 PM
To: Austin Healey
Subject: [Healeys] Converting to rear disc brakes

What is required to convert the rear drum brakes on my
BJ8 to rear discs? What are the options?
I'd like to hear from folks who have carried out the
conversion.
Thanks
Jorge Garcia

From RAntal243 at aol.com  Mon Sep 24 09:23:13 2007
From: RAntal243 at aol.com (RAntal243 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 11:23:13 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] REQUEST FOR ADVICE
Message-ID: <c03.18d09d88.34293061@aol.com>

In a message dated 9/24/2007 9:39:59 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
rdavies1 at cox.net writes:

Does  anyone have experience of using Bilsteins or Putzes  Fahrpass?
---------

Yes to both! Amazing difference in ride and  handling, especially cornering
over ditches or bumps. Worth every penny.  Highly recommended.
No financial interest.
Ron Davies
SoCal
67  BJ8
97  DB7
_______________________________________________
rantal243 at aol.com  

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys



Ron,
     I had these shocks installed three or four years  ago on my BJ8. My 
impression was that they allowed the wheels to hold the road  better, especially 
when going at speed around curves with bumpy surfaces. I  think there is less 
hop. I'm pleased with them.
rich antal



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Mon Sep 24 09:44:56 2007
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curt/Nancy Arndt)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 08:44:56 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Stator Tube & Trafficator Question
Message-ID: <751d05480709240844i5332a0am3aee4b8fd002e526@mail.gmail.com>

Gerry,

I agree with Alan Seigrist that if you have an adjustable steering wheel,
you will now have to try to pull the stator tube out of the steering box,
which is not easy.

On the adjustable steering setup, there are essentially two stator tubes,
the longer one which protrudes from the steering box and the shorter
adjustable one that is attached to the trafficator.   The problem is that
the longer stator tube is not long enough to extend out of the steering
wheel end once it has been pushed up into the steering box.  You now have
nothing to grab on to to either pull it completely out or to line up to push
it back through the steering box.  Once it is up in there it tends to become
misaligned with the hole at the end of the steering box and it is a royal
pain to try to get it out.  I almost made this same mistake last week until
Roger Moment reminded me to leave the jam and olive nut in place.

Bottom line is that there is really no reason too remove the jam and olive
nut on this setup since you will avoid the problem you are now
encountering.  Just pull the trafficator and short stator tube out together
as a unit and leave the long stator tube locked in place.

Cheers,

Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{) '72 RWA Midget, '06 Mini Cooper S- Hide quoted text -




On 9/23/07, AAHealeyguy at aol.com <AAHealeyguy at aol.com> wrote:
>
> Hi gang,   I have a 1957 100/6 BN4 and recently rebuilt the trafficator
> and
> replaced it into the steering cloumn.   My problem is re-installing the
> olive
> on the stator tube at the other end of the steering column.   Is the
> stator
> tube supposed to stick out of the end plate nipple just a litte, so that I
> can
> insert the olive onto it??  It does not on mine.
> I installed the olive into the nipple hole (that the stator tube was not
> sticking out of) then installed and tightened the nut...... and
> munched/crushed
> the olive.  Had to buy a new one.
> I was told that I need to install the olive onto the end of the stator
> tube.
> I cannot seem to get the stator tube to protrude out the end of the end
> plate
> nipple.   Any suggestions or what might I be doing wrong.     And  YES my
> steering box oil just pours out.
>
> Thanks for any input.
> Gerry K (in San Diego)
>
>
> **************************************
> See what's
> new at http://www.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> cnaarndt at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From alan at andysnet.net  Mon Sep 24 10:26:10 2007
From: alan at andysnet.net (Alan Schultz)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 11:26:10 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Stator Tube & Trafficator Question
In-Reply-To: <751d05480709240844i5332a0am3aee4b8fd002e526@mail.gmail.com>
References: <751d05480709240844i5332a0am3aee4b8fd002e526@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <46F7E522.7030202@andysnet.net>

Why not try inserting a rod up from the bottom that would act as an 
alignment tool so that the long stator tube can be inserted until its 
out the bottom? My guess is a 5/16th inch x 12" long tapered on one end. 
That's a guess!! I know it sounds too easy but sometimes luck is on your 
side.

Alan Schultz
67HBJ8


Curt/Nancy Arndt wrote:
> On the adjustable steering setup, there are essentially two stator tubes,
> the longer one which protrudes from the steering box and the shorter
> adjustable one that is attached to the trafficator.   The problem is that
> the longer stator tube is not long enough to extend out of the steering
> wheel end once it has been pushed up into the steering box.  You now have
> nothing to grab on to to either pull it completely out or to line up to push
> it back through the steering box.  Once it is up in there it tends to become
> misaligned with the hole at the end of the steering box and it is a royal
> pain to try to get it out. 

From Editorgary at aol.com  Mon Sep 24 10:41:05 2007
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 12:41:05 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] White Healey in Bullett
Message-ID: <d04.1a391fca.342942a1@aol.com>

In a message dated 9/24/07 7:04:24 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes:


> Soooo, is this old info or not....
>
> I was watching Bullet for the umpteenth time the other night, and
> noticed as Bullet (Steve McQueen) is crossing he street he walks behind
> a (white?) Healey with the top down (I think.)  The Healey is parked as
> the first car on the right side going uphill from an intersection (try
> to figure that out.)   I watched this a few weeks ago, so the memory is
> not clear - but I am certain it is before the big chase scene.
>
> Anyone notice this?
>
> bob walker
> phoenix, az
>
That's a pretty well-known sighting, but still an interesting story. If you
look closely, you'll actually see that white Healey parked in at least one
other part of the street chase, (maybe two other scenes). The explanation is
that
it belonged to one of the cameramen on the crew, so he was driving it from
set-up to set-up.
And that's the "Rest of the Story."
Cheers
Gary



**************************************
 See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep 24 11:07:42 2007
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 10:07:42 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] test
Message-ID: <0973F348-4B26-49BF-9833-5BCAED313358@sbcglobal.net>

test new server

From Kendall.Freese at aerojet.com  Mon Sep 24 13:11:42 2007
From: Kendall.Freese at aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 12:11:42 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Looking for Ralph Durbin
Message-ID: <1B3BD9CCDD89084C9CC405C3258017F501ED3FB8@SACMAIL1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

Does anyone know if Ralph Durbin or Robert Durbin are still around? I
think I read a article that he showed a AH in Michigan once. I have an
interesting picture of a crashed 100-6 racer to ask him about.

Thanks,
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

From fortee9er at yahoo.com  Mon Sep 24 14:11:58 2007
From: fortee9er at yahoo.com (Jorge Garcia)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 13:11:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Spin oil filter
Message-ID: <168866.60955.qm@web54503.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I purchased the "Oil Filter Conversion Kit" from Moss
in order to use off the shelf spin on oil filters and
I am having a problem finding the appropriate oil
filter. The part number in the instructions and the
one I got from Moss have no cross reference in the WIX
cross reference. Can anyone tell me what oil filter
brand and number you are using with this adapter.
Thanks
Jorge Garcia


       
____________________________________________________________________________________
Building a website is a piece of cake. Yahoo! Small Business gives you all the tools to get online.
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/webhosting 

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Sep 24 14:20:40 2007
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 13:20:40 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Spin oil filter
In-Reply-To: <168866.60955.qm@web54503.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <168866.60955.qm@web54503.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <46F81C18.3020006@comcast.net>

Jorge,

I use a Wix# 51516.  It's equivalent to a Fram# 3600.


bs

Jorge Garcia wrote:
> I purchased the "Oil Filter Conversion Kit" from Moss
> in order to use off the shelf spin on oil filters and
> I am having a problem finding the appropriate oil
> filter. The part number in the instructions and the
> one I got from Moss have no cross reference in the WIX
> cross reference. Can anyone tell me what oil filter
> brand and number you are using with this adapter.
> Thanks
> Jorge Garcia
>
>
>        
>
>   

-- 
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

From m.fawcett at verizon.net  Mon Sep 24 14:59:24 2007
From: m.fawcett at verizon.net (Mark Fawcett)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 13:59:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] value of '67 BJ8
Message-ID: <46F8252C.2000606@verizon.net>

Hi Listers,
I met a guy today that stopped me in my Healey and was interested in 
knowing the approximate value of a 67 BJ8 that he has had for a number 
of years.  The car has been stored under a tarp outside in Southern 
California for around 15 years.  The car is complete, has a few minor 
dings and dents. May or may not run, but comes with a spare engine. I 
went by the address he gave and took a few photos.  He has a friend that 
is interested in buying it, but doesn't know what it's worth. He said he 
wants to get as much as possible, but wants to be fair.

Mark Fawcett

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Sep 24 15:24:36 2007
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 14:24:36 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] value of '67 BJ8
In-Reply-To: <46F8252C.2000606@verizon.net>
References: <46F8252C.2000606@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <46F82B14.9050505@comcast.net>

At the B-J auction:  $1,000,000,000

Everywhere else--based on your description-- $15-20K, depending on 
mileage, etc.
Kurt Tanner (see above) is always advertising in Hemmings for Healeys, esp.
easily restorable BJ8s.  You might find out what he'd be willing to pay, 
then add 20%
or more (I think Tanner is in SoCal somewhere).


bs



Mark Fawcett wrote:
> Hi Listers,
> I met a guy today that stopped me in my Healey and was interested in 
> knowing the approximate value of a 67 BJ8 that he has had for a number 
> of years.  The car has been stored under a tarp outside in Southern 
> California for around 15 years.  The car is complete, has a few minor 
> dings and dents. May or may not run, but comes with a spare engine. I 
> went by the address he gave and took a few photos.  He has a friend that 
> is interested in buying it, but doesn't know what it's worth. He said he 
> wants to get as much as possible, but wants to be fair.
>
> Mark Fawcett
> _______________________________________________
> bspidell at comcast.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>   

-- 
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

From quenty at ntelos.net  Mon Sep 24 15:41:43 2007
From: quenty at ntelos.net (Dave Schweninger)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 17:41:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Leather luggage belts
In-Reply-To: <bdf.1bcc304f.341ee3dd@aol.com>
References: <bdf.1bcc304f.341ee3dd@aol.com>
Message-ID: <0A14D23D-F266-42B4-8A1D-3B3D4196CB44@ntelos.net>

Tandy Leather.com They have everything.


On Sep 16, 2007, at 3:54 PM, coppifan at aol.com wrote:

> Hi,
>
> Where might I find leather belts to attach a wicker picnic basket  
> to the
> rack on my "67 BJ8?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Will Eggert
> Annapolis
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at http:// 
> www.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> quenty at ntelos.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From bighealey at charter.net  Mon Sep 24 15:54:10 2007
From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 17:54:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Spin oil filter
In-Reply-To: <168866.60955.qm@web54503.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20070924175410.DLP1N.59235.root@mp20>

K&N  HP2009  Anti flowback, micro filter and welded nut for removal.

http://www.amazon.com/K-N-HP-2009-Oil-Filter/dp/B000C3YTJI
---- Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com> wrote: 
> I purchased the "Oil Filter Conversion Kit" from Moss
> in order to use off the shelf spin on oil filters and
> I am having a problem finding the appropriate oil
> filter. The part number in the instructions and the
> one I got from Moss have no cross reference in the WIX
> cross reference. Can anyone tell me what oil filter
> brand and number you are using with this adapter.
> Thanks
> Jorge Garcia
> 
> 
>        
> ____________________________________________________________________________________
> Building a website is a piece of cake. Yahoo! Small Business gives you all the tools to get online.
> http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/webhosting 
> _______________________________________________
> bighealey at charter.net 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Mon Sep 24 16:13:50 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 17:13:50 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] value of '67 BJ8
References: <46F8252C.2000606@verizon.net>
  <46F82B14.9050505@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <002301c7fef8$30295c70$6401a8c0@toshibauser>

"At the B-J auction:  $1,000,000,000

 Everywhere else--based on your description-- $15-20K, depending on mileage, 
etc."

I agree, but would add that the big "depending on" factor would be rust or 
lack thereof.

Greg Lemon
54 BN1

From MBran89793 at aol.com  Mon Sep 24 16:33:34 2007
From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 18:33:34 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Spin oil filter
Message-ID: <ccd.1d40fa39.3429953e@aol.com>

DWIW This is a list of alternate filters that you may consider.
 
AC -PF56
 
BALDWIN -B243
 
FRAM-PH43, PH 3569, PH3600, PH3963
 
K&N -HP2009
 
NAPA -21516
 
PURELATOR -L291195, PL20195
 
VALVOLINE-VF3600
 
WIX -51516
 



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Sep 24 16:53:14 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 06:53:14 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Stator Tube & Trafficator Question
In-Reply-To: <46F7E522.7030202@andysnet.net>
References: <751d05480709240844i5332a0am3aee4b8fd002e526@mail.gmail.com>
	<46F7E522.7030202@andysnet.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709241553n33678038r9069f9717f0b2178@mail.gmail.com>

I would try using. a knitting needle or two to fish it out of there...


- Original message -
Why not try inserting a rod up from the bottom

On 9/25/07, Alan Schultz <alan at andysnet.net> wrote:
> Why not try inserting a rod up from the bottom that would act as an
> alignment tool so that the long stator tube can be inserted until its
> out the bottom? My guess is a 5/16th inch x 12" long tapered on one end.
> That's a guess!! I know it sounds too easy but sometimes luck is on your
> side.
>
> Alan Schultz
> 67HBJ8
>
>
> Curt/Nancy Arndt wrote:
> > On the adjustable steering setup, there are essentially two stator tubes,
> > the longer one which protrudes from the steering box and the shorter
> > adjustable one that is attached to the trafficator.   The problem is that
> > the longer stator tube is not long enough to extend out of the steering
> > wheel end once it has been pushed up into the steering box.  You now have
> > nothing to grab on to to either pull it completely out or to line up to
> push
> > it back through the steering box.  Once it is up in there it tends to
> become
> > misaligned with the hole at the end of the steering box and it is a royal
> > pain to try to get it out.
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From prattri at msn.com  Mon Sep 24 17:00:03 2007
From: prattri at msn.com (Richard Pratt)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 19:00:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Side Window Frames
Message-ID: <BAYC1-PASMTP1572A555CD734AD6DDF6FFBDB60@CEZ.ICE>

List,

I am in need of a set of window frames w/without glass for a BN1 or a source
for new frames.

Thanks

 Richard

65 Healey

From dwflagg at juno.com  Mon Sep 24 17:22:31 2007
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 19:22:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healeymanjim
Message-ID: <20070924.192231.2144.4.dwflagg@juno.com>

Give me a shout off the list. Thanks.

Doug

From geatros at shaw.ca  Mon Sep 24 17:26:38 2007
From: geatros at shaw.ca (geatros)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 16:26:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Thinking of selling my BT7 MKII Tri Carb
Message-ID: <001001c7ff02$5b603e40$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>

Hi
I'm thinking of selling my 1962 BT7 MKII Tri Carb center shift trans. factory
hardtop its all there but needs restoration. The front dog legs and sills are
rusty, but it looks like it was refendered at some point, body looks straight
. What do you all think a tri carb is going for now a days? I found another
Healey I want  to buy so this one might have to go......

Thanks
Kenny

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Mon Sep 24 18:12:12 2007
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 20:12:12 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Side Window Frames
References: <BAYC1-PASMTP1572A555CD734AD6DDF6FFBDB60@CEZ.ICE>
Message-ID: <007001c7ff08$b8adaf00$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>

Richard,

There were 3 different series of sidescreens for the BN1. When was yours 
built, or at least what are the car numbers, etc.?

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Pratt" <prattri at msn.com>
To: "'Healeys'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 7:00 PM
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Side Window Frames


> List,
>
> I am in need of a set of window frames w/without glass for a BN1 or a 
> source
> for new frames.
>
> Thanks
>
> Richard
>
> 65 Healey
> _______________________________________________
> richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Sep 24 18:35:49 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 08:35:49 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Side Window Frames
In-Reply-To: <007001c7ff08$b8adaf00$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>
References: <BAYC1-PASMTP1572A555CD734AD6DDF6FFBDB60@CEZ.ICE>
	<007001c7ff08$b8adaf00$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709241735l3ec176aaj910106ebe1e14c66@mail.gmail.com>

Rich -

I think he means windshield frames.... ?

Alan


On 9/25/07, Rich C <richchrysler at quickclic.net> wrote:
> Richard,
>
> There were 3 different series of sidescreens for the BN1. When was yours
> built, or at least what are the car numbers, etc.?
>
> Rich Chrysler
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Richard Pratt" <prattri at msn.com>
> To: "'Healeys'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 7:00 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Side Window Frames
>
>
> > List,
> >
> > I am in need of a set of window frames w/without glass for a BN1 or a
> > source
> > for new frames.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Richard
> >
> > 65 Healey
> > _______________________________________________
> > richchrysler at quickclic.net
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From craigsuerice at iquest.net  Mon Sep 24 19:56:56 2007
From: craigsuerice at iquest.net (Craig and Sue Rice)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 20:56:56 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Spin oil filter
References: <168866.60955.qm@web54503.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <012401c7ff19$fb64c8e0$9b602bd1@iquest.net>

Jorge & Others,
This is my cross reference list for the spin-on filters:
Purolator        L20195
Fram              PH3600 & PH2870A & PH43 & PH3963
Wix                51516 & 51460 & 51342
ACDelco        PF56 & PFL400A
K & N            HP2009
Valvoline        VF3600
Motorcraft      FL400A
NAPA            21516
Casite             CF213
Bosch             72-143
Beck-Arnley    041-8058

Craig Rice
BN1 & BN2
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jorge Garcia" <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
To: "Austin Healey" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 3:11 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Spin oil filter


> I purchased the "Oil Filter Conversion Kit" from Moss
> in order to use off the shelf spin on oil filters and
> I am having a problem finding the appropriate oil
> filter. The part number in the instructions and the
> one I got from Moss have no cross reference in the WIX
> cross reference. Can anyone tell me what oil filter
> brand and number you are using with this adapter.
> Thanks
> Jorge Garcia

From geatros at shaw.ca  Mon Sep 24 19:29:33 2007
From: geatros at shaw.ca (geatros)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 18:29:33 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Thinking of selling my BT7 MKII Tri Carb
Message-ID: <001801c7ff13$86d647c0$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>

Hey Gilbert

I'll be take the 100M to the Grave with me, its not for sale.....

Kenny

From geatros at shaw.ca  Mon Sep 24 19:47:48 2007
From: geatros at shaw.ca (geatros)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 18:47:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Thinking of selling my BT7 MKII Tri Carb
Message-ID: <002f01c7ff16$13f20520$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>

Hey Gilbert .........I just turned the BIG 50 last Jan.....I'll be getting
cremated in my 100M . I'll make sure they send you some ashes........ I like
your car in the photo as well we're all lucky..


Cheers
Kenny

From caddi5 at comcast.net  Mon Sep 24 19:59:56 2007
From: caddi5 at comcast.net (caddi5 at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 01:59:56 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] dating a trans
Message-ID: <092520070159.27859.46F86B9C000619AB00006CD32212020784CA070B0B0E0C@comcast.net>

Hello list,
can anyone help me date a trans and overdrive unit? here are the numbers I was given...
OD# 28/1447/011036
TRANS#  WM 1448  AEO 3174
THANKS Mitch

From bj8mk3 at shaw.ca  Mon Sep 24 20:12:46 2007
From: bj8mk3 at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 19:12:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] dating a trans
In-Reply-To: <092520070159.27859.46F86B9C000619AB00006CD32212020784CA070B0B0E0C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000901c7ff19$9297b6b0$0e02a8c0@ecarecenters.net>

Sorry, I don't date transmissions....nothing against them, just not my
thing.   I consider myself a happily heterosexual male.

Good Luck

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+bj8mk3=shaw.ca at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+bj8mk3=shaw.ca at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
caddi5 at comcast.net
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 7:00 PM
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] dating a trans

Hello list,
can anyone help me date a trans and overdrive unit? here are the numbers I
was given...
OD# 28/1447/011036
TRANS#  WM 1448  AEO 3174
THANKS Mitch
_______________________________________________
bj8mk3 at shaw.ca 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Mon Sep 24 20:25:07 2007
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Leonard  Hartnett)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 19:25:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] dating a trans
In-Reply-To: <000901c7ff19$9297b6b0$0e02a8c0@ecarecenters.net>
References: <000901c7ff19$9297b6b0$0e02a8c0@ecarecenters.net>
Message-ID: <281A8B419DB14C28884DA3E1E484A9B6@LeonardPC>

...And those phone numbers look kind of strange.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville,  California,  USA
1967 3000 MKIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "PG" <bj8mk3 at shaw.ca>
To: <caddi5 at comcast.net>; <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 7:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] dating a trans


> Sorry, I don't date transmissions....nothing against them, just not my
> thing.   I consider myself a happily heterosexual male.
>
> Good Luck
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+bj8mk3=shaw.ca at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+bj8mk3=shaw.ca at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> caddi5 at comcast.net
> Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 7:00 PM
> To: Healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] dating a trans
>
> Hello list,
> can anyone help me date a trans and overdrive unit? here are the numbers I
> was given...
> OD# 28/1447/011036
> TRANS#  WM 1448  AEO 3174
> THANKS Mitch
> _______________________________________________
> bj8mk3 at shaw.ca
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> _______________________________________________
> thehartnetts at earthlink.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

From cleona44 at hotmail.com  Mon Sep 24 20:56:35 2007
From: cleona44 at hotmail.com (Jim Lesher)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 22:56:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] dating a trans
In-Reply-To: <092520070159.27859.46F86B9C000619AB00006CD32212020784CA070B0B0E0C@comcast.net>
References: <092520070159.27859.46F86B9C000619AB00006CD32212020784CA070B0B0E0C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY104-W288AE3E3A7E7E39EB3E76EC5B70@phx.gbl>

Mitch - check the post by Steve Byers over the weekend. about overdrives.
I believe it notes that the od# 28/1447 should be for the 100-six
good luck
jim lesher> From: caddi5 at comcast.net> To: Healeys at autox.team.net> Date: Tue,
25 Sep 2007 01:59:56 +0000> Subject: [Healeys] dating a trans> > Hello list,>
can anyone help me date a trans and overdrive unit? here are the numbers I was
given...> OD# 28/1447/011036> TRANS# WM 1448 AEO 3174> THANKS Mitch>
_______________________________________________> cleona44 at hotmail.com > >
_________________________________________________________________
Kick back and relax with hot games and cool activities at the Messenger Cafi.
http://www.cafemessenger.com?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_SeptWLtagline

From thewalkers at qwest.net  Mon Sep 24 22:43:54 2007
From: thewalkers at qwest.net (the walkers)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 21:43:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] White Healey in Bullett
In-Reply-To: <d04.1a391fca.342942a1@aol.com>
References: <d04.1a391fca.342942a1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <46F8920A.2040901@qwest.net>

That is interesting, thanks for the info.

bob walker
phx, az

Editorgary at aol.com wrote:

>In a message dated 9/24/07 7:04:24 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes:
>
>
>  
>
>>Soooo, is this old info or not....
>>
>>I was watching Bullet for the umpteenth time the other night, and
>>noticed as Bullet (Steve McQueen) is crossing he street he walks behind
>>a (white?) Healey with the top down (I think.)  The Healey is parked as
>>the first car on the right side going uphill from an intersection (try
>>to figure that out.)   I watched this a few weeks ago, so the memory is
>>not clear - but I am certain it is before the big chase scene.
>>
>>Anyone notice this?
>>
>>bob walker
>>phoenix, az
>>
>>    
>>
>That's a pretty well-known sighting, but still an interesting story. If you
>look closely, you'll actually see that white Healey parked in at least one
>other part of the street chase, (maybe two other scenes). The explanation is
>that
>it belonged to one of the cameramen on the crew, so he was driving it from
>set-up to set-up.
>And that's the "Rest of the Story."
>Cheers
>Gary
>
>
>
>**************************************
> See what's new at http://www.aol.com
>_______________________________________________
>thewalkers at qwest.net 
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From WhoCares56 at aol.com  Mon Sep 24 23:34:20 2007
From: WhoCares56 at aol.com (WhoCares56 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 01:34:20 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] dating a trans
Message-ID: <bd2.143410d3.3429f7dc@aol.com>

Oh.  I thought you meant going out with a  transvestite!



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From mkgoodman at worldnet.att.net  Tue Sep 25 05:33:23 2007
From: mkgoodman at worldnet.att.net (Mark Goodman)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 07:33:23 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Webber Carbs for sale
Message-ID: <20070925113337.D03BA187A0B@autox.team.net>

A Friend has two Weber DGV Downdraft Carburetors with Pierce Manifolds and
linkage for sale.  They were rebuilt last year by Interco.  Tony wants
$600.00 for everything.  

No financial interest.  Contact Tony Vigliotti at: tony at ratco.com. 

 

Mark Goodman

66 BJ8 35503

From mkgoodman at worldnet.att.net  Tue Sep 25 05:39:21 2007
From: mkgoodman at worldnet.att.net (Mark Goodman)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 07:39:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Webber Carbs for sale
Message-ID: <20070925113933.2EDDA187A32@autox.team.net>

OOPS, Wrong email address

 

Contact Tony at tony at rat-co.com

 

  _____  

From: Mark Goodman [mailto:mkgoodman at worldnet.att.net] 
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 7:33 AM
To: Healeys at Autox. Team. Net (healeys at autox.team.net)
Cc: Tony Vigliotti
Subject: Webber Carbs for sale

 

A Friend has two Weber DGV Downdraft Carburetors with Pierce Manifolds and
linkage for sale.  They were rebuilt last year by Interco.  Tony wants
$600.00 for everything.  

No financial interest.  Contact Tony Vigliotti at: tony at ratco.com. 

 

Mark Goodman

66 BJ8 35503

From scott at scottjgraham.com  Tue Sep 25 06:36:03 2007
From: scott at scottjgraham.com (Scott J Graham)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 22:36:03 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] REQUEST FOR ADVICE
Message-ID: <005401c7ff70$a447afd0$0200a8c0@yourpdnds2yigt>

Mike



I have Udo Putzke's shocks on my BJ7 and was disappointed by a couple of
things.  While they ride well, I was going for handling and in this sense
they have some shortcomings:

-        create rear end congestion but do not come with ability to
integrate with other handling mods in the way the Cape kits do

o        addition of anti tramp rods and upgraded panhard rod required
modifications to the bracket  not impossible  but a hassle

-        they are not adjustable unlike Konis

o        they can be revalved but this is a shocks out job where a supplier
has to do it & you refit and adjust on a trial by error basis



I would talk to Denis Welch and Cape and see if their kits avoid these
shortcomings.

Scott




No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1029 - Release Date: 24/09/2007
7:09 PM

From Kendall.Freese at aerojet.com  Tue Sep 25 08:18:22 2007
From: Kendall.Freese at aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 07:18:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Spin oil filter
In-Reply-To: <012401c7ff19$fb64c8e0$9b602bd1@iquest.net>
References: <168866.60955.qm@web54503.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<012401c7ff19$fb64c8e0$9b602bd1@iquest.net>
Message-ID: <1B3BD9CCDD89084C9CC405C3258017F501ED3FBF@SACMAIL1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

Actually the bigger Motorcraft FL1A also fits, but just barely. It is
what I use. Fram generally flunks the comparison tests that are on the
Internet.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

From mkgoodman at worldnet.att.net  Tue Sep 25 09:17:05 2007
From: mkgoodman at worldnet.att.net (Mark Goodman)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 11:17:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Good space shuttle pictures
Message-ID: <20070925151748.00610187A31@autox.team.net>

>From Steve Jekogian

 

Beautiful Images of the Shuttle !

 

Click the link below.

 

http://www.texasjim.com/NASApix/NASA%20pix.htm

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Tue Sep 25 09:59:44 2007
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 08:59:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Cam bearings
Message-ID: <005801c7ff8d$17912bd0$6501a8c0@XPS400>

Sorry, no Healey content --  MGB engine question.

I purchased a new cam (stock) and gave the machine shop that is machining my
MGB engine a set of new cam bearings to install.  Now the machinist is telling
me I don't need new cam bearings.  I just assumed that if I was installing a
new cam I should replace the bearings.  Should I accept his advise or find a
new machine shop to install them?  Do I need any special tools to install them
at home?

Ron Fine
61 BN7
66 MGB

From pryner at verizon.net  Tue Sep 25 10:15:46 2007
From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter  Ryner)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 12:15:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Cam bearings
In-Reply-To: <005801c7ff8d$17912bd0$6501a8c0@XPS400>
Message-ID: <NBEEJEGGEGNFFCODHMLKAELIDGAA.pryner@verizon.net>

Ron,
Changing cam bearings is definitely a machine shop job as it does require a
special tool.  If you had the block cleaned the cleaning process normally
ruins the cam bearings so I always install new ones on my rebuilds.  Make
sure you have a competent machine shop do the work.

I had my Spitfire block worked on many years ago and when I picked up the
block the timing gear dimple was broken and the cam wouldn't fit into the
block.  Some bozo had gotten the bearings cocked, tried to smooth them down
with steel wool  (said they always did it that way), then tried to drive the
cam in by hammering it with the gear.  After checking the block I found they
had also misaligned the holes in the bearings with the oil holes in the
block and had blocked all of the oil journals.

Not sure about your particular engine, but some engines require a line bore
after installing the bearings.  The bearings are oversized and are bored to
match the cam.  Pretty sure the MGB doesn't have that requirement though.
Pete

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+pryner=verizon.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+pryner=verizon.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
Ron Fine
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 12:00 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Cam bearings


Sorry, no Healey content --  MGB engine question.

I purchased a new cam (stock) and gave the machine shop that is machining my
MGB engine a set of new cam bearings to install.  Now the machinist is
telling
me I don't need new cam bearings.  I just assumed that if I was installing a
new cam I should replace the bearings.  Should I accept his advise or find a
new machine shop to install them?  Do I need any special tools to install
them
at home?

Ron Fine
61 BN7
66 MGB
__

From JNBrashear at garverengineers.com  Tue Sep 25 11:45:37 2007
From: JNBrashear at garverengineers.com (Brashear, Jack, N)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 12:45:37 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Spin oil filter
In-Reply-To: <20070924175410.DLP1N.59235.root@mp20>
Message-ID: <2D0989D186D44349BE853EE6CFC87AE6035A1EF3@glitas07.garverinc.local>

Yeah, I like the KN HP 2009.  Bought mine at the local Auto Zone.  It's
a little more pricey than all the others but not enough to matter.
Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+jnbrashear=garverengineers.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+jnbrashear=garverengineers.com at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of bighealey at charter.net
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 4:54 PM
To: Jorge Garcia; Austin Healey
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spin oil filter

K&N  HP2009  Anti flowback, micro filter and welded nut for removal.

http://www.amazon.com/K-N-HP-2009-Oil-Filter/dp/B000C3YTJI
---- Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com> wrote:
> I purchased the "Oil Filter Conversion Kit" from Moss
> in order to use off the shelf spin on oil filters and
> I am having a problem finding the appropriate oil
> filter. The part number in the instructions and the
> one I got from Moss have no cross reference in the WIX
> cross reference. Can anyone tell me what oil filter
> brand and number you are using with this adapter.
> Thanks
> Jorge Garcia

From Editorgary at aol.com  Tue Sep 25 12:35:17 2007
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 14:35:17 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Bugeye owners- Upgrades?
Message-ID: <d3c.133f0fb0.342aaee5@aol.com>

I'm one of the crew helping Debra Kadner build her new Bugeye Sprite and 
wanted to get the wisdom of you Bugeye owners out there:
For a car that will be driven on the street and on occasionals tours -- maybe 
a track day once in awhile for driving practice -- where safety and 
dependability are the primary objectives, what upgrades and modifications would you 
suggest?
For background, she's installing a 1275 engine built by MiniMania, and also 
will be installing a roll bar, but no decisions have been made yet beyond that.
What would you recommend?
Thanks
Gary


**************************************
 See what's new at 
http://www.aol.com

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Tue Sep 25 13:16:29 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 14:16:29 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Bugeye owners- Upgrades?
In-Reply-To: <d3c.133f0fb0.342aaee5@aol.com>
References: <d3c.133f0fb0.342aaee5@aol.com>
Message-ID: <c413a1478cdcb.8cdcbc413a147@rdc-kc.rr.com>

Gary, I don't have a Sprite, but several friends do.  You may have 
already thought of it but the 5 speed conversion is great for these 
cars, you get synchromesh on first and an overdrive 5th that makes 
highway cruising a much better proposition.  If you don't go for the 5 
speed a lower rear end (I believe about 3.90 or 3.70 for the last cars) 
would be good unless it is absolutely just a track car and 
acceleration/close ratio is more important than cruising.

I think most bugeyes are upgraded to front disk brakes, which like our 
big healeys is a simple bolt on with components from later cars.

If it is going to be driven hard you will also want upgraded rear 
axles, they can still break but not as easily.   

Fot a track car plus one or two wheels (14' or 15") with low profile 
tires.

I met some guys in Kansas City that have installed superchargers and 
like them a lot.

Sounds like fun.


Greg Lemon
54 BN1

From dan at warner-associates.com  Tue Sep 25 14:03:19 2007
From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 15:03:19 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Silicon VS Brake Fluid
Message-ID: <001f01c7ffaf$1e812bd0$3500000a@warner.com>

I would like to add one more item to the list of pros and cons of silicon
over regular brake fluid.  I just rebuilt front and rear brakes as well as
the servo and both the master and slave cylinders (resleived in stainless)
on a 64 BJ8.  One thing I found outside all the pistons was a greenish white
chalk that was at times hard.  My assumption was this was old brake fluid
that had leaked and crystallized.  I am wondering if anyone has used silicon
in their braking systems long enough to comment on whether silicon is an
improvement in that regard.  I might add that that just about everything was
rebuilt about 20 years back and had about 3000 miles capped off with five
years of no activity.  The actual rubber in the cylinders looked good but
the outsides of each piston was cruded up.

 

On question I would have is it proper to treat the inside of all the
cylinders with the dry Sandstrom lubricant whether I use regular brake fluid
or silicon?

 

Dan 

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Sep 25 14:34:35 2007
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 13:34:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Silicon VS Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <001f01c7ffaf$1e812bd0$3500000a@warner.com>
References: <001f01c7ffaf$1e812bd0$3500000a@warner.com>
Message-ID: <46F970DB.8040701@comcast.net>

Dan,

I'm not going to plunge into the silicone vs. DOT3/4 argument, but I 
don't think
you want to use the Sandstrom dry lubricant on anything but the inside 
of the
vacuum chamber of the servo.  The master and slave cylinders are 
lubricated by
the brake fluid (whichever one you use).


bs


Dan Stromquist wrote:
> I would like to add one more item to the list of pros and cons of silicon
> over regular brake fluid.  I just rebuilt front and rear brakes as well as
> the servo and both the master and slave cylinders (resleived in stainless)
> on a 64 BJ8.  One thing I found outside all the pistons was a greenish white
> chalk that was at times hard.  My assumption was this was old brake fluid
> that had leaked and crystallized.  I am wondering if anyone has used silicon
> in their braking systems long enough to comment on whether silicon is an
> improvement in that regard.  I might add that that just about everything was
> rebuilt about 20 years back and had about 3000 miles capped off with five
> years of no activity.  The actual rubber in the cylinders looked good but
> the outsides of each piston was cruded up.
>
>  
>
> On question I would have is it proper to treat the inside of all the
> cylinders with the dry Sandstrom lubricant whether I use regular brake fluid
> or silicon?
>
>  
>
> Dan 
>   
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

From JNBrashear at garverengineers.com  Tue Sep 25 14:40:57 2007
From: JNBrashear at garverengineers.com (Brashear, Jack, N)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 15:40:57 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Vac Advance woes
Message-ID: <2D0989D186D44349BE853EE6CFC87AE6035A1FC2@glitas07.garverinc.local>

Hi All, I need a vacuum advance unit for my DM6A distributor (AH 3000
Mk2)   Does anyone have a good used one for sale.  NOS would be OK also.
Please let me know and many thanks.

Jack

From dan at warner-associates.com  Tue Sep 25 15:16:04 2007
From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 16:16:04 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Vac Advance woes
Message-ID: <000901c7ffb9$47f6ae90$3500000a@warner.com>

Jack:
Jeff Schlemmer at Advance Distributors can help you out with a working unit.
Contact him at Jeff at advanceddistributors.com.
Dan


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Brashear, Jack, N
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 3:41 PM
To: Austin Healey
Subject: [Healeys] Vac Advance woes

Hi All, I need a vacuum advance unit for my DM6A distributor (AH 3000
Mk2)   Does anyone have a good used one for sale.  NOS would be OK also.
Please let me know and many thanks.

Jack
_______________________________________________
dan at warner-associates.com 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From dwflagg at juno.com  Tue Sep 25 16:02:53 2007
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 18:02:53 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Bugeye owners- Upgrades?
Message-ID: <20070925.180254.3604.1.dwflagg@juno.com>

Gary, 

If you want an all synchro tranny, buy a Miata and keep the Sprite
original with period or off other British car upgrades. I remember
enjoying driving my Sprite all day long and loving it for who it was. Ah,
for the simpler days before credit cards and the need for more "stuff".

Doug

> Gary, I don't have a Sprite, but several friends do.  You may have 
> already thought of it but the 5 speed conversion is great for these 
> 
> cars, you get synchromesh on first and an overdrive 5th that makes 
> highway cruising a much better proposition.  If you don't go for the 
> 5 
> speed a lower rear end (I believe about 3.90 or 3.70 for the last 
> cars) 
> would be good unless it is absolutely just a track car and 
> acceleration/close ratio is more important than cruising.
> 
> I think most bugeyes are upgraded to front disk brakes, which like 
> our 
> big healeys is a simple bolt on with components from later cars.
> 
> If it is going to be driven hard you will also want upgraded rear 
> axles, they can still break but not as easily.   
> 
> Fot a track car plus one or two wheels (14' or 15") with low profile 
> 
> tires.
> 
> I met some guys in Kansas City that have installed superchargers and 
> 
> like them a lot.
> 
> Sounds like fun.
> 
> 
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1
> _______________________________________________
> dwflagg at juno.com 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From ah3000me at gmail.com  Tue Sep 25 17:39:44 2007
From: ah3000me at gmail.com (T W)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 19:39:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 door - glass weather strip
Message-ID: <d9b7a14d0709251639h411fa4e5k1e4be6414ecb374e@mail.gmail.com>

Hi,

I need to replace the inner and outer weather strips in the door of my
BJ8 (1966).    These are the strips that seal against the glass as it
goes up and down in the door.

Does anyone have some advice on how best to do this?   The outer
doesn't look too bad to do,  but the replacing the inner strip looks
tricky.

thanks in advance,

Tom

From rjh at hockertlaw.us  Tue Sep 25 17:49:37 2007
From: rjh at hockertlaw.us (rjhco)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 18:49:37 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Dallas Rally
In-Reply-To: <d9b7a14d0709251639h411fa4e5k1e4be6414ecb374e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20070925234938.BPMQ14677.mta13.adelphia.net@RJHDESKTOP>

Any one on the list planning to participate in the DFW Map Rally this
Saturday (SCCA open event)?

Looking for some entries to assemble a Marque team. Show up at 9:00 A.M. 

http://www.texasscca.org/DMR07flyer.pdf


Please contact me off list.

Best regards,
Jim Hockert
Dallas, TX

From tw002crew at shoreham.net  Tue Sep 25 18:21:39 2007
From: tw002crew at shoreham.net (Daniel)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 20:21:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Bugeye upgrades
Message-ID: <20070926002205.ACD7D1879EB@autox.team.net>

Gary,

 

Suggestions:     Front disc brakes, stainless steel flex brake lines,
silicone brake fluid, upgrade rear brakes to 1275 era,

3.9 rear end, 3 to 1 exhaust header or similar and free flow muffler.

What are you using for carbs? Intake manifold?

And of course...3-point belts 

Oh yeah and camera to capture the smile after the first blast around the
block.

 

Dan W

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Tue Sep 25 19:45:52 2007
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (Steve B. Gerow)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 18:45:52 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healy speling lesion
Message-ID: <C31F07DF.256C1%steveg@abrazosdata.com>

Hay all u speling bee-yers--

Bullitt
Weber
Pertronix

Ther, Ive wrote it. :-)
-- 
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6

From helyjohn at cablespeed.com  Tue Sep 25 20:55:41 2007
From: helyjohn at cablespeed.com (John Snyder)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 18:55:41 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Bugeye owners- Upgrades?
References: <d3c.133f0fb0.342aaee5@aol.com>
Message-ID: <002101c7ffe8$babea3e0$f030eb42@FRED>

When I was racing my Bug-Eye back in the '70s, I was running stock Chevy 
Vega 5" wheels.  They looked similar to the Bug-Eye wheels, and were much 
stronger and wider.  You have to use a thin spacer on the front to  space 
them out to clear the shoulder on the hubs, and Triumph Spitfire lug nuts. 
Might still have one or 2 of the spacers laying around.  Also installed a 
good Pannard Rod on the rear axle.  Did the same thing on a Bug-Eye I built 
for the street after getting too old to race.

John Snyder



> I'm one of the crew helping Debra Kadner build her new Bugeye Sprite and
> wanted to get the wisdom of you Bugeye owners out there:
> For a car that will be driven on the street and on occasionals tours --  
> maybe
> a track day once in awhile for driving practice -- where safety and
> dependability are the primary objectives, what upgrades and modifications 
> would you
> suggest?
> For background, she's installing a 1275 engine built by MiniMania, and 
> also
> will be installing a roll bar, but no decisions have been made yet beyond 
> that.
> What would you recommend?
> Thanks
> Gary

From helyjohn at cablespeed.com  Tue Sep 25 21:02:54 2007
From: helyjohn at cablespeed.com (John Snyder)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 19:02:54 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] PS  Fw:  Bugeye owners- Upgrades?
Message-ID: <003a01c7ffe9$bc62c180$f030eb42@FRED>

P.S.   Also, was running disc front brakes and Huffaker double bearing rear 
hubs  (probably can't get them any more).  Sprites tend to brake rear axles 
from cornering stressesw/ the stock rear hubs.

John Snyder



> When I was racing my Bug-Eye back in the '70s, I was running stock Chevy 
> Vega 5" wide wheels.  They looked similar to the Bug-Eye wheels, and were 
> much stronger and wider.  You have to use a thin spacer on the front to 
> space them out to clear the shoulder on the hubs, and Triumph Spitfire lug 
> nuts. Might still have one or 2 of the spacers laying around.  Also 
> installed a good Pannard Rod on the rear axle.  Did the same thing on a 
> Bug-Eye I built for the street after getting too old to race.
>
> John Snyder
>
>
>
>> I'm one of the crew helping Debra Kadner build her new Bugeye Sprite and
>> wanted to get the wisdom of you Bugeye owners out there:
>> For a car that will be driven on the street and on occasionals tours --  
>> maybe
>> a track day once in awhile for driving practice -- where safety and
>> dependability are the primary objectives, what upgrades and modifications 
>> would you
>> suggest?
>> For background, she's installing a 1275 engine built by MiniMania, and 
>> also
>> will be installing a roll bar, but no decisions have been made yet beyond 
>> that.
>> What would you recommend?
>> Thanks
>> Gary

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Tue Sep 25 21:17:36 2007
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 23:17:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 door - glass weather strip
Message-ID: <BAY108-F3417365E7C0B5EC5248CD4C8B00@phx.gbl>

Tom,

I replaced my outboard seals and inboard brushy strips a couple of months 
ago during my restoration.  Since I removed them during disassembly I 
haven't experience exchanging them while the door panels are in place.  It 
would seem to me however that the easiest way would be to remove the inner 
door pull handle and black door top piece, then the clips and brushy strip 
could be safely removed and replaced.  That will be the more simple of the 
two strips to replace.  The outboard seal is very difficult to get correct 
because the clips have to hold the seal strip as well as the chrome door top 
finisher.  I would remove the chrome door top piece by carefully lifting it 
up and slightly forward to free the front portion near the bottom of the 
forward edge of the wind vent (quarter window).  Then slide it backward to 
free the rear portion.  It is held in place by the clips that hold the seal 
so pay close attention to how the clips are oriented.  This orientation must 
be maintained during refitting or the chrome piece will not be secure on the 
door.

There may be other approaches that have been successful by more experienced 
people on this list and I would like to hear from them for future 
replacements on my car.

Take care,

George
'65 bj8


>From: "T W" <ah3000me at gmail.com>
>To: Healeys at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 door - glass weather strip
>Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 19:39:44 -0400
>
>Hi,
>
>I need to replace the inner and outer weather strips in the door of my
>BJ8 (1966).    These are the strips that seal against the glass as it
>goes up and down in the door.
>
>Does anyone have some advice on how best to do this?   The outer
>doesn't look too bad to do,  but the replacing the inner strip looks
>tricky.
>
>thanks in advance,
>
>Tom
>_______________________________________________
>haywoodone at hotmail.com
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

_________________________________________________________________
Kick back and relax with hot games and cool activities at the Messenger 
Cafi. http://www.cafemessenger.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_SeptHMtagline1

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Tue Sep 25 22:16:58 2007
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 21:16:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Cam bearings
Message-ID: <006e01c7fff4$15054b00$6501a8c0@XPS400>

Thanks to everyone for the advise today about replacing (or not) the cam
bearings in my MGB engine.  With the reassurance of the list that it was not
always necessary to replace the bearings, I retrieved my engine this
afternoon.  The machinists did not use corrosive solution to clean the block
so the bearings were not damaged.  He said the bearings were in good shape and
that he measured them to be sure they would fit the new cam.  So, the engine
block is back home and I am looking forward to starting the rebuild this
weekend.

This is only my second engine rebuild so I am still learning.  I couldn't do
it without the help of this list.

Ron Fine
61BN7
66 MGB

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Tue Sep 25 22:42:59 2007
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 21:42:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Vac Advance woes
In-Reply-To: <2D0989D186D44349BE853EE6CFC87AE6035A1FC2@glitas07.garverinc.local>
Message-ID: <554575.76140.qm@web83315.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Jack ... We have rebuilt vacuum units rebuilt ,
exchange , call us fo more info. ... Norman Nock

British Car Specialists . 2060 N Wilson Way . Stockton
. Ca 94205
209-948-8767 FAX 209-948-1030
www.BritishCarSpecialists.com
tech. questions David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
Parts inquiry, Sheila Nock-Huggins
britishcardoc at sbcglobal.net




--- "Brashear, Jack, N"
<JNBrashear at garverengineers.com> wrote:

> Hi All, I need a vacuum advance unit for my DM6A
> distributor (AH 3000
> Mk2)   Does anyone have a good used one for sale. 
> NOS would be OK also.
> Please let me know and many thanks.
> 
> Jack
> _______________________________________________
> sjnnock at sbcglobal.net 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Sep 26 01:55:17 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 15:55:17 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 door - glass weather strip
In-Reply-To: <d9b7a14d0709251639h411fa4e5k1e4be6414ecb374e@mail.gmail.com>
References: <d9b7a14d0709251639h411fa4e5k1e4be6414ecb374e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709260055j29f337d0g3fe86186795558c6@mail.gmail.com>

Just slide the window out - easy.  Remove the regulator limiter then
wind the window all the way up, you'll be able to pull it out then you
can do the inner felt very easy.

Alan


On 9/26/07, T W <ah3000me at gmail.com> wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I need to replace the inner and outer weather strips in the door of my
> BJ8 (1966).    These are the strips that seal against the glass as it
> goes up and down in the door.
>
> Does anyone have some advice on how best to do this?   The outer
> doesn't look too bad to do,  but the replacing the inner strip looks
> tricky.
>
> thanks in advance,
>
> Tom
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From logical2 at hotmail.com  Wed Sep 26 06:55:31 2007
From: logical2 at hotmail.com (Frank Edwards)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 12:55:31 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
Message-ID: <BAY125-W35A420DC49947B506E702C9EB00@phx.gbl>

To all;
I have a 1969 MG Midget that is my daily driver.  Since restoring it 5 years
ago it has had silicone brake fluid in it.  It now has 20k+ miles on it since
then.  I think it's great stuff and when I finish my BJ7 I certainly intend to
use it in that.Frank R. Edwards570-784-4662logical2 at hotmail.com
_________________________________________________________________
Connect to the next generation of MSN Messenger 
http://imagine-msn.com/messenger/launch80/default.aspx?locale=en-us&source=wl
mailtagline

From logical2 at hotmail.com  Wed Sep 26 06:59:56 2007
From: logical2 at hotmail.com (Frank Edwards)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 12:59:56 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] silicone brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <BAY125-W35A420DC49947B506E702C9EB00@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY125-W35A420DC49947B506E702C9EB00@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAY125-W13AA482E888E42496219909EB00@phx.gbl>

Frank R. Edwards570-784-4662logical2 at hotmail.com> From: logical2 at hotmail.com>
To: healeys at autox.team.net> Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 12:55:31 +0000> Subject:
[Healeys] (no subject)> > To all;> I have a 1969 MG Midget that is my daily
driver. Since restoring it 5 years> ago it has had silicone brake fluid in it.
It now has 20k+ miles on it since> then. I think it's great stuff and when I
finish my BJ7 I certainly intend to> use it in that.Frank R.
Edwards570-784-4662logical2 at hotmail.com>
_________________________________________________________________> Connect to
the next generation of MSN Messenger >
http://imagine-msn.com/messenger/launch80/default.aspx?locale=en-us&source=wl>
mailtagline> _______________________________________________>
logical2 at hotmail.com > > Healeys at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
_________________________________________________________________
Invite your mail contacts to join your friends list with Windows Live Spaces.
It's easy!
http://spaces.live.com/spacesapi.aspx?wx_action=create&wx_url=/friends.aspx&m
kt=en-us

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Wed Sep 26 07:09:50 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 09:09:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 door - glass weather strip
Message-ID: <380-22007932613950796@earthlink.net>

IIRC, the little clips go under the lip on the inside of the doors.  I have
made a "clip installer" in which the clip "sits".  the installer is then
lowewred throught the window opening and positioned under the lip and the
weather strip.  Pulling up sharply on the installer attaches the clip over
the lip and strip.  Works well.  I don't have a photo, but think of a long
strip of metal with a handle on one end and a "U" shape on the other.  The
clip sits in the "U" end of the metal.

Easy to make.

tom  


> [Original Message]
> From: T W <ah3000me at gmail.com>
> To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 9/25/2007 7:40:06 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 door - glass weather strip
>
> Hi,
>
> I need to replace the inner and outer weather strips in the door of my
> BJ8 (1966).    These are the strips that seal against the glass as it
> goes up and down in the door.
>
> Does anyone have some advice on how best to do this?   The outer
> doesn't look too bad to do,  but the replacing the inner strip looks
> tricky.
>
> thanks in advance,
>
> Tom
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Wed Sep 26 07:23:50 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 09:23:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healy speling lesion
Message-ID: <380-220079326132350140@earthlink.net>

Er--wouldn't that be "Ive 'writ' it"???:) 


> [Original Message]
> From: Steve B. Gerow <steveg at abrazosdata.com>
> To: Healeys Newsgroup <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 9/25/2007 9:43:20 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Healy speling lesion
>
> Hay all u speling bee-yers--
>
> Bullitt
> Weber
> Pertronix
>
> Ther, Ive wrote it. :-)
> -- 
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From scthomton at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 26 09:04:43 2007
From: scthomton at yahoo.com (Steve Thomton)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 08:04:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] White Healey in Bullett
Message-ID: <710158.68080.qm@web50602.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

The Bullett Healey is a BJ7 and is currently undergoing a rebuild in my garage.  The guy I bought it from in San Jose said the owner lived in the apartment complex where they were shooting at the time and they told him he could leave it where it was parked because it looked good in the scenes......so that's the story I got.  The prior owner said he got a VHS tape (this was about 8 years ago) of the movie and stop frame stepped it through one scene where the Healey can be seen through the rear window of Steve McQueen's Mustang, in that picture he said he could see the top half of the license plate and verified the plate number was the same as the black and gold CA plate on the car.....I have the black and gold CA plate.  Interesting story.....anyway, I doubt that this adds more than 25 cents to the value. 
   
  Steve Thomton
  1963 BJ7
  Larkspur, CO

       
---------------------------------
Got a little couch potato? 
Check out fun summer activities for kids.

From dwhite4949 at wowway.com  Wed Sep 26 11:04:32 2007
From: dwhite4949 at wowway.com (Daniel and Diane White)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 13:04:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Carb jet tube clearance
Message-ID: <46FA9120.4070002@wowway.com>

Fellow listers,
I have a 1962 BN7 tri carb.  I'm doing the reassembly part of the 
restoration and find that the jet head on the rear carb is extremely 
close to the steering tube.  It's so close that if the choke were to be 
operated there would be no possible downward movement at all.  So far 
I've found out that the jet is the correct length for the carb (some 
after market jets are longer than the original equipment).  The frame 
hasn't been damaged/bent.  Engine and trans mounts are new.  I've 
researched the list archives and not found anything relating to this 
problem.  Steering tube looks to be centered through the firewall and 
dash.  Carbs, heat shield and spacers are correctly assembled.  From my 
reading of the workshop manual and looking at it's mounts I don't think 
the steering tube can be moved away from the jet head.  Anyone ever 
experience a clearance problem like this?  Any thoughts would be 
appreciated.
Thanks, Dan

From quenty at ntelos.net  Wed Sep 26 12:24:42 2007
From: quenty at ntelos.net (Dave Schweninger)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 14:24:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Carb jet tube clearance
In-Reply-To: <46FA9120.4070002@wowway.com>
References: <46FA9120.4070002@wowway.com>
Message-ID: <AD122126-BB67-467F-8F3C-CA609B89CDDE@ntelos.net>


[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of DSCN2701.jpg]
Dan
I also have a 62 BN7 Tri-carb
My rear carb jet head is inside the steering column about 1/4". With  
no Choke, the bottom of the jet is about 3/16 above the CL of the  
column. The attached pic. shows the Carb balance tube's alignment  
with the OD throttle Switch. If thats OK It must be the stack up of  
gaskets. spacers. heatshield.etc. All this is assuming mine is correct.
Good Luck
Dave and Daisy

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of DSCN2700.jpg]

From helyjohn at cablespeed.com  Wed Sep 26 13:36:52 2007
From: helyjohn at cablespeed.com (John Snyder)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 11:36:52 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Carb jet tube clearance
References: <46FA9120.4070002@wowway.com>
Message-ID: <002901c80074$971b1540$f030eb42@FRED>

I have had the same problem w/ more than one tri-carb.  Luckily I find it 
b/4 the body panels are installed.  The steering box has a clamp which can 
be loosened, the metal plates (both sides of the firewall) w/ the big 
grommets for the column have oversized holes for their 4 screws. The support 
channel w/ the column clamp behind the instrument panel has slots  at both 
ends.  Loosen everything, and push the column to the left as far as the 
opening in the instrument panel will allow.  There should be just enough 
clearance for the choke to work.  Sounds easy, but might be much harder w/ 
the body installed.  (I've done 3 ground up restos on tri-carbs, and had 
this problem on as least 2 of them.  Maybe there is something you and I are 
missing about assembling the carbs/manifolds)
John Snyder


> Fellow listers,
> I have a 1962 BN7 tri carb.  I'm doing the reassembly part of the
> restoration and find that the jet head on the rear carb is extremely
> close to the steering tube.  It's so close that if the choke were to be
> operated there would be no possible downward movement at all.  So far
> I've found out that the jet is the correct length for the carb (some
> after market jets are longer than the original equipment).  The frame
> hasn't been damaged/bent.  Engine and trans mounts are new.  I've
> researched the list archives and not found anything relating to this
> problem.  Steering tube looks to be centered through the firewall and
> dash.  Carbs, heat shield and spacers are correctly assembled.  From my
> reading of the workshop manual and looking at it's mounts I don't think
> the steering tube can be moved away from the jet head.  Anyone ever
> experience a clearance problem like this?  Any thoughts would be
> appreciated.
> Thanks, Dan

From ahbn6 at optonline.net  Wed Sep 26 13:08:21 2007
From: ahbn6 at optonline.net (John Sims)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 15:08:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Laycock de Normanville Overdrive Manual
In-Reply-To: <987747.22309.qm@web37913.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKGEPIDFAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>
	<987747.22309.qm@web37913.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <004e01c80070$9b23c910$6500a8c0@simsoffice>

Even better, check theses out -- five separate PDF files:

http://www.tabsnet.com/tr6/ODA-I.pdf

http://www.tabsnet.com/tr6/ODA-II.pdf

http://www.tabsnet.com/tr6/ODA-III.pdf

http://www.tabsnet.com/tr6/ODA-IV.pdf

http://www.tabsnet.com/tr6/ODA-V.pdf



John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com
 


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Robert Blair
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 4:42 PM
To: BJ8Healeys; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Laycock de Normanville Overdrive Manual

Thanks Steve - good to have on file.

Robert.

--- BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:

> Someone was looking for a Laycock de Normanville
> overdrive manual recently.
> I found one here:
>
> http://www.tr4a.com/tech_data/laycock/overdrive.htm
>
> Enjoy!
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA

From britcar95 at gmail.com  Wed Sep 26 14:33:03 2007
From: britcar95 at gmail.com (dale smithers)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 14:33:03 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Test. please ignore
Message-ID: <5e4e99060709261333l76d883eibd6f651fec1af8d2@mail.gmail.com>

New to list.

From grain at auracom.com  Wed Sep 26 15:04:09 2007
From: grain at auracom.com (Rick Swain and Wendy Grant)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 18:04:09 -0300
Subject: [Healeys] BN4 Measurements
Message-ID: <7D96570D-F642-4DDA-B1BE-B1E0DAB404B5@auracom.com>

Does anybody have a BN4 or BT7 that is stripped down to the chassis  
who would be willing to share some measurements with me? Even some  
BN6 or BN7 measurements may be fine. This fall I'm taking my BN4  
apart to replace the frame with a Kilmartin one. The problem is that  
sometime in the past repairs were done and the rear of the car  
doesn't sit the way it should. The frame itself (covered with all  
sorts of bits and pieces over everything that's accessible) appears  
to be straight but there are problems with what was replaced.  
Homemade outriggers replace the originals. New sills were welded onto  
the outriggers but one is tipped so that it sits low in back. Either  
that or the other one is high in the back.

New quarter panels (homemade) were installed but perhaps not in the  
right place. One side of the car may be fine but the other is off. I  
want to try to get things as good as I can when I start welding  
pieces to the new frame.

Everybody says that no two Healeys are exactly the same and the  
measurements from another car won't work on mine. In the absence of  
correct positioning of pieces on my car when the work was done 20  
years ago I'd like to have some correct measurements (even if not  
specific to my car) as a starting point.

Thanks

Rick Swain
'59 BN4

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Wed Sep 26 15:27:55 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 14:27:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Silicon VS Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <001f01c7ffaf$1e812bd0$3500000a@warner.com>
Message-ID: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKMEBEDGAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>

Hi, Dan -
I've had silicon(e) fluid in my BJ8 since 1990.  I would never go back to
DOT 3 or 4 fluid.  Silicone works great, doesn't promote corrosion of the
brake system parts, and most importantly (if you have a new paint job, as I
did in 1990) does not strip paint if you spill it (as you certainly will at
some point).
I've never had any problems with the brakes from using silicone, although if
you do get it on paint, it's almost impossible to remove when it comes time
to repaint.  Spoken from personal experience gained while trying to paint my
engine bay several years later.  Silicone contamination will result in
fisheyes in liquid paint.

The Sandstrom dry film lube is not recommended inside brake fluid - wetted
parts of brake systems, although it is proper to use it on the walls of the
brake servo canister when you rebuild that.  It lubricates the leather
piston seal of the booster.

Cheers!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Dan
Stromquist
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 1:03 PM
To: Healey List Emails
Subject: [Healeys] Silicon VS Brake Fluid


I would like to add one more item to the list of pros and cons of silicon
over regular brake fluid.  I just rebuilt front and rear brakes as well as
the servo and both the master and slave cylinders (resleived in stainless)
on a 64 BJ8.  One thing I found outside all the pistons was a greenish white
chalk that was at times hard.  My assumption was this was old brake fluid
that had leaked and crystallized.  I am wondering if anyone has used silicon
in their braking systems long enough to comment on whether silicon is an
improvement in that regard.  I might add that that just about everything was
rebuilt about 20 years back and had about 3000 miles capped off with five
years of no activity.  The actual rubber in the cylinders looked good but
the outsides of each piston was cruded up.



On question I would have is it proper to treat the inside of all the
cylinders with the dry Sandstrom lubricant whether I use regular brake fluid
or silicon?



Dan

From jackson_krall at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 26 15:39:18 2007
From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 14:39:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] White Healey in Bullett
In-Reply-To: <710158.68080.qm@web50602.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <701772.41505.qm@web52408.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Don't be so sure about that. This car has tremendous
documented provinance.

Best
JK
NYC

--- Steve Thomton <scthomton at yahoo.com> wrote:
  "Interesting
> story.....anyway, I doubt that this adds more than
> 25 cents to the value." 
>    
>   Steve Thomton
>   1963 BJ7
>   Larkspur, CO
> 
>        
> ---------------------------------
> Got a little couch potato? 
> Check out fun summer activities for kids.
> _______________________________________________
> jackson_krall at yahoo.com 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 



      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Don't let your dream ride pass you by. Make it a reality with Yahoo! Autos.
http://autos.yahoo.com/index.html

From ecsaustralia at bigpond.com  Wed Sep 26 15:57:05 2007
From: ecsaustralia at bigpond.com (Bill Shipton)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 14:57:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] hardtop for BN6
Message-ID: <46FAD5B1.4000402@bigpond.com>

Hi all,

Can anyone recommend a supplier for a hardtop to suit a BN6? I'm looking 
for an original-style replica - an original hardtop would be great but 
a) I don't want the
hassle of restoring an original and b) definitely don't want to pay the 
crazy prices that original 2-seater hardtops are going for   :-)

BTW I'm in Vancouver, Canada.



Thanks,


Bill.

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Wed Sep 26 16:09:59 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 17:09:59 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] hardtop for BN6
In-Reply-To: <46FAD5B1.4000402@bigpond.com>
References: <46FAD5B1.4000402@bigpond.com>
Message-ID: <001901c80089$fd194370$f74bca50$@com>

Peter Farmer in the UK makes replicas. He's cc'd above.

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+wsthompson=thicko.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+wsthompson=thicko.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Bill Shipton
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 4:57 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] hardtop for BN6

Hi all,

Can anyone recommend a supplier for a hardtop to suit a BN6? I'm looking 
for an original-style replica - an original hardtop would be great but 
a) I don't want the
hassle of restoring an original and b) definitely don't want to pay the 
crazy prices that original 2-seater hardtops are going for   :-)

BTW I'm in Vancouver, Canada.



Thanks,

From geatros at shaw.ca  Wed Sep 26 18:21:06 2007
From: geatros at shaw.ca (geatros)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 17:21:06 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Silicone VS Brake Fluid
References: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKMEBEDGAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>
Message-ID: <000701c8009c$4c235020$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>

Hi all
My BJ8 had silicone brake fluid in the brake system for at least 10 years 
when I bought the car, never changed.  When I rebuilt the brakes I found 
rusty pools of water in the calipers. The fluid should be changed every 5 
years to keep this from happening. I as well won't go back to Dot 3 or 4 
fluid.
 Silicone was easy to bleed....

Cheers
Kenny----- Original Message ----- 
From: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 2:27 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Silicon VS Brake Fluid


> Hi, Dan -
> I've had silicon(e) fluid in my BJ8 since 1990.  I would never go back to
> DOT 3 or 4 fluid.  Silicone works great, doesn't promote corrosion of the
> brake system parts, and most importantly (if you have a new paint job, as 
> I
> did in 1990) does not strip paint if you spill it (as you certainly will 
> at
> some point).
> I've never had any problems with the brakes from using silicone, although 
> if
> you do get it on paint, it's almost impossible to remove when it comes 
> time
> to repaint.  Spoken from personal experience gained while trying to paint 
> my
> engine bay several years later.  Silicone contamination will result in
> fisheyes in liquid paint.
>
> The Sandstrom dry film lube is not recommended inside brake fluid - wetted
> parts of brake systems, although it is proper to use it on the walls of 
> the
> brake servo canister when you rebuild that.  It lubricates the leather
> piston seal of the booster.
>
> Cheers!
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Dan
> Stromquist
> Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 1:03 PM
> To: Healey List Emails
> Subject: [Healeys] Silicon VS Brake Fluid
>
>
> I would like to add one more item to the list of pros and cons of silicon
> over regular brake fluid.  I just rebuilt front and rear brakes as well as
> the servo and both the master and slave cylinders (resleived in stainless)
> on a 64 BJ8.  One thing I found outside all the pistons was a greenish 
> white
> chalk that was at times hard.  My assumption was this was old brake fluid
> that had leaked and crystallized.  I am wondering if anyone has used 
> silicon
> in their braking systems long enough to comment on whether silicon is an
> improvement in that regard.  I might add that that just about everything 
> was
> rebuilt about 20 years back and had about 3000 miles capped off with five
> years of no activity.  The actual rubber in the cylinders looked good but
> the outsides of each piston was cruded up.
>
>
>
> On question I would have is it proper to treat the inside of all the
> cylinders with the dry Sandstrom lubricant whether I use regular brake 
> fluid
> or silicon?
>
>
>
> Dan
> _______________________________________________
> geatros at shaw.ca
>
> Heaautox.team.netleys@
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From ahpowered at hotmail.com  Wed Sep 26 19:21:48 2007
From: ahpowered at hotmail.com (scott willis)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 20:21:48 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Just dirty balls!
Message-ID: <BLU111-W4715D93E6D5BBEEE40D7C9B8B10@phx.gbl>

OK sorry about that. I could not resist. So my BN7 side shift tranny locked up
way back in May or early June. I have been scratching my head and dreading the
thought of shipping this thing off for a full rebuild since it was really
working well until it locked. It did and still does make rhythmic noise in
first and reverse but it shifted well and stayed in gear.

I took the side cover off the first time and everything appeared in good order
so I worked the linkage, put the cover back on and put $45 worth of Redline
in. I got ready for a test drive and BAM! Stuck again. hmmm

It sat for quite awhile. I finally took the cover off again knowing it was
just something with the linkage. Day after day of pondering I spoke with the
guy I bought my E from and he said pull the balls for the selector shaft out
and make sure they are not broken. Everything was fine on the side case balls
but when I tried the magnet to fish them out of the top interlock ball hole my
magnet was covered in a lot gritty grime. I flushed the gunk out of the hole
with spray lube and I noticed the shafts had more range of motion and the
shift pattern was smooth and correct. Just dirty balls!

I just got back from my first 1 hr spirited drive for the summer. More to
come. Thanks for all the help months ago.

See ya on the road.

Scott Willis
Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA
59 MGA
66 E-Type FHC
http://www.geocities.com/bgeuroclassics/BG_Euro.html
BG Euro Classics Car Club President
Bowling Green, KY
_________________________________________________________________
Explore the seven wonders of the world
http://search.msn.com/results.aspx?q=7+wonders+world&mkt=en-US&form=QBRE

From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au  Wed Sep 26 19:26:49 2007
From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick)
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 11:26:49 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Just dirty balls!
In-Reply-To: <BLU111-W4715D93E6D5BBEEE40D7C9B8B10@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU111-W4715D93E6D5BBEEE40D7C9B8B10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C76C74C0@itfexch5.central.det.win>

G'day Scott

I am really sorely tempted but I won't, after all there are some out
there with sensitive proclivities.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

1947 Healey Duncan Saloon (In pieces, so don't know if the balls have
dropped or not)
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1 (with shiny and clean balls)

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+patrick.quinn=det.nsw.edu.au at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+patrick.quinn=det.nsw.edu.au at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of scott willis
Sent: Thursday, 27 September 2007 11:22 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net; swillis at insighbb.com
Subject: [Healeys] Just dirty balls!

OK sorry about that. I could not resist. So my BN7 side shift tranny
locked up
way back in May or early June. I have been scratching my head and
dreading the
thought of shipping this thing off for a full rebuild since it was
really
working well until it locked. It did and still does make rhythmic noise
in
first and reverse but it shifted well and stayed in gear.

I took the side cover off the first time and everything appeared in good
order
so I worked the linkage, put the cover back on and put $45 worth of
Redline
in. I got ready for a test drive and BAM! Stuck again. hmmm

It sat for quite awhile. I finally took the cover off again knowing it
was
just something with the linkage. Day after day of pondering I spoke with
the
guy I bought my E from and he said pull the balls for the selector shaft
out
and make sure they are not broken. Everything was fine on the side case
balls
but when I tried the magnet to fish them out of the top interlock ball
hole my
magnet was covered in a lot gritty grime. I flushed the gunk out of the
hole
with spray lube and I noticed the shafts had more range of motion and
the
shift pattern was smooth and correct. Just dirty balls!

I just got back from my first 1 hr spirited drive for the summer. More
to
come. Thanks for all the help months ago.

See ya on the road.

Scott Willis
Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA
59 MGA
66 E-Type FHC
http://www.geocities.com/bgeuroclassics/BG_Euro.html
BG Euro Classics Car Club President
Bowling Green, KY
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Sep 26 19:27:44 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 09:27:44 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Just dirty balls!
In-Reply-To: <BLU111-W4715D93E6D5BBEEE40D7C9B8B10@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU111-W4715D93E6D5BBEEE40D7C9B8B10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709261827g78412297o76712f2598d27388@mail.gmail.com>

Clean balls (and springs) also help keep the gears in gear when going downhill.

On 9/27/07, scott willis <ahpowered at hotmail.com> wrote:
> OK sorry about that. I could not resist. So my BN7 side shift tranny locked up
> way back in May or early June. I have been scratching my head and dreading the
> thought of shipping this thing off for a full rebuild since it was really
> working well until it locked. It did and still does make rhythmic noise in
> first and reverse but it shifted well and stayed in gear.
>
> I took the side cover off the first time and everything appeared in good order
> so I worked the linkage, put the cover back on and put $45 worth of Redline
> in. I got ready for a test drive and BAM! Stuck again. hmmm
>
> It sat for quite awhile. I finally took the cover off again knowing it was
> just something with the linkage. Day after day of pondering I spoke with the
> guy I bought my E from and he said pull the balls for the selector shaft out
> and make sure they are not broken. Everything was fine on the side case balls
> but when I tried the magnet to fish them out of the top interlock ball hole my
> magnet was covered in a lot gritty grime. I flushed the gunk out of the hole
> with spray lube and I noticed the shafts had more range of motion and the
> shift pattern was smooth and correct. Just dirty balls!
>
> I just got back from my first 1 hr spirited drive for the summer. More to
> come. Thanks for all the help months ago.
>
> See ya on the road.
>
> Scott Willis
> Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA
> 59 MGA
> 66 E-Type FHC
> http://www.geocities.com/bgeuroclassics/BG_Euro.html
> BG Euro Classics Car Club President
> Bowling Green, KY
> _________________________________________________________________
> Explore the seven wonders of the world
> http://search.msn.com/results.aspx?q=7+wonders+world&mkt=en-US&form=QBRE
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From rthrift at cox.net  Wed Sep 26 19:50:22 2007
From: rthrift at cox.net (RThrift)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 18:50:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Just dirty balls!
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0709261827g78412297o76712f2598d27388@mail.gmail.co
  m>
References: <BLU111-W4715D93E6D5BBEEE40D7C9B8B10@phx.gbl>
	<ff59076c0709261827g78412297o76712f2598d27388@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20070927014933.BDWJ16791.fed1rmmtao106.cox.net@fed1rmimpo02.cox.net>

   Maybe  that's  my problem, not the synchros?  Could you amplify, Alan?
   Maybe some differential diagnosis?
   thanks
   Richard
   At 09:27 AM 9/27/2007 +0800, Alan Seigrist wrote:

     Clean  balls  (and  springs)  also help keep the gears in gear when
     going downhill.
     On 9/27/07, scott willis <ahpowered at hotmail.com> wrote:
     .... I flushed the gunk out of the hole
     > with spray lube and I noticed the shafts had more range of motion
     and the
     > shift pattern was smooth and correct. Just dirty balls!

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Sep 26 19:58:09 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 09:58:09 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Just dirty balls!
In-Reply-To: <20070927014933.BDWJ16791.fed1rmmtao106.cox.net@fed1rmimpo02.cox.net>
References: <BLU111-W4715D93E6D5BBEEE40D7C9B8B10@phx.gbl>
	<ff59076c0709261827g78412297o76712f2598d27388@mail.gmail.com>
	<20070927014933.BDWJ16791.fed1rmmtao106.cox.net@fed1rmimpo02.cox.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709261858s1cb81099v9c3f6a73756370d8@mail.gmail.com>

Richard -

The selector balls (and selector springs) help keep your car in gear
all the time.  When you are coasting downhill, this reversal of thrust
direction in the box puts modest pressure on the selector to pop out
of gear.  If you don't have the selector balls and springs in there,
or they are not functioning properly, your car will pop out of gear
every time you coast downhill in gear.

If you go down a really steep hill an Austin gearbox will pop out of
gear anyway (e.g. California St. in San Francisco), but any properly
sorted Healey gear box should almost never pop out of gear.

Alan

On 9/27/07, RThrift <rthrift at cox.net> wrote:
> Maybe that's my problem, not the synchros?  Could you amplify, Alan?  Maybe
> some differential diagnosis?
>
> thanks
> Richard

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Sep 26 20:30:56 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 10:30:56 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] White Healey in Bullett
In-Reply-To: <710158.68080.qm@web50602.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <710158.68080.qm@web50602.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709261930j76f96ebk853cb01a5fdbeca7@mail.gmail.com>

If it was Kurt Tanner auctioning this car, I'm sure he'd milk it for
all it's worth!!

On 9/26/07, Steve Thomton <scthomton at yahoo.com> wrote:
> The Bullett Healey is a BJ7 and is currently undergoing a rebuild in my garage.  The guy I bought it from in San Jose said the owner lived in the apartment complex where they were shooting at the time and they told him he could leave it where it was parked because it looked good in the scenes......so that's the story I got.  The prior owner said he got a VHS tape (this was about 8 years ago) of the movie and stop frame stepped it through one scene where the Healey can be seen through the rear window of Steve McQueen's Mustang, in that picture he said he could see the top half of the license plate and verified the plate number was the same as the black and gold CA plate on the car.....I have the black and gold CA plate.  Interesting story.....anyway, I doubt that this adds more than 25 cents to the value.
>
>  Steve Thomton
>  1963 BJ7
>  Larkspur, CO

From 63AHBJ7 at comcast.net  Wed Sep 26 20:40:40 2007
From: 63AHBJ7 at comcast.net (63AHBJ7)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 21:40:40 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Just dirty balls!
References: <BLU111-W4715D93E6D5BBEEE40D7C9B8B10@phx.gbl>
	<3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C76C74C0@itfexch5.central.det.win>
Message-ID: <036401c800af$cb45b880$6601a8c0@actualshop>

<<I am really sorely tempted but I won't, after all there are some out
there with sensitive proclivities.>>

Not where Scott lives, Patrick !!!  LOL

Ed

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Wed Sep 26 23:37:55 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 00:37:55 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] paging Gary Anderson
Message-ID: <010301c800c8$8e70de80$6401a8c0@toshibauser>

Gary, couldn't find your e-mail address, contact me off list for a non 
Healey but LBC question if you would. Sorry to bomb the list.

Greg Lemon 

From Editorgary at aol.com  Thu Sep 27 12:05:47 2007
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 14:05:47 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 1, Issue 212
Message-ID: <c67.1aede6c1.342d4afb@aol.com>

In a message dated 9/27/07 11:02:45 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net 
writes:


> 
> Gary, couldn't find your e-mail address, contact me off list for a non
> Healey but LBC question if you would. Sorry to bomb the list.
> 
> Greg Lemon
> 

I'm surprised you couldn't find my email. I'm listed accurately in both the 
Austin-Healy Club of America and Austin-Healey Club USA membership directories. 
For anyone else on this list who wants to reach me and isn't a member of 
either of these fine clubs, I'm at editorgary at aol.com
Cheers, Gary


**************************************
 See what's new at 
http://www.aol.com

From BlkBt7 at aol.com  Thu Sep 27 18:19:01 2007
From: BlkBt7 at aol.com (Bob Brown)
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 19:19:01 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Pictures of a Track Day gone bad
Message-ID: <46FC47D3.1050904@aol.com>

Attached are some pictures of an Iso Grifo A3C that had bad day at the
track.    By the way, the car was for sale at the time.  The owner
thought the track was a good way to promote it.  He was asking 800,000
Euros.

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/showthread.php?s=f55c0bdf5f19a0da7d7641c9012a20c5&t=47705

http://www.pbase.com/steephill/strettoncrash

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Thu Sep 27 18:23:46 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 19:23:46 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] SOS '07, a Little bit of Spridget Heaven part 1
Message-ID: <009601c80165$d79d15e0$86d741a0$@com>

Hey y'all,

 

Preparations for "SOS '07 a Little Bit of Spridget Heaven" are well
underway. Once again, SOS will be held at the Dream Farm, in beautiful
Eldorado, WI.

 

The list of projects continues to grow. 

 

Bud Pazur's Bugeye "Mr. White" will be here for a roll bar installation. 

 

Kris Larsen's "StaPuff" racecar will be getting final assembly. 

 

I dug up a Bugeye bonnet project that should be interesting, educational,
and a general pain in the ass. I have a decent bonnet on a racecar where
there fender lips were cut back (a lot) for fiberglass flare installation.
We'll extract that portion of the fender lip from a very rotted and banged
up bonnet I have, and fit them to the good one. "Measure twice. cut once. I
cut it 3 times and it's still too short" kind of deal. So, we'll be doing
some welding.

 

At the pace Larry "Mr. Peepers" Daniels is getting to his project. we have a
few choices. either he continue to put about 10 man hours into it a year for
a hundred years, or we get a hundred guys here that can donate 10 hours of
time. So, with that in mind, there will be lots of help need in Larry's
project.

 

Tomorrow, brother Don and I are retrieving 2 of the 5 cars I bought in
Madison a few weeks ago. 2 Bugeyes, and 3 Spridgets. We may add some of the
worst of them to the "blue wrench" pile. (gas torch for those paying
attention).

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Thu Sep 27 18:25:07 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 19:25:07 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] SOS '07, a Little bit of Spridget Heaven part 2
Message-ID: <009c01c80166$0848cd60$18da6820$@com>

Part 2

 

You need not have mechanical ability to attend. You can just watch, eat, and
drink if you'd like.

 

Remember, the Dream Farm is located about an hour north of Milwaukee,
between Fond du Lac and Oshkosh. We're very close to the <EAA
<http://www.eaa.org/> > for those that would like to combine SOS with a trip
to the museum. Also a couple of miles away, the <Glacier Ridge Animal Farm
<http://www.glacierridgeanimalfarm.com/> > is also a nice diversion. 

 

Also, we do have the ability to put some folks up here, whether it be in the
house, in the shop, or in the camper for those that need a place to stay.
There are also many hotel choices on either side of us, but reservations
should be booked sooner than later on a holiday weekend. 

 

Once again, we'll broadcast the event via Yahoo Messenger, video, and audio,
with real time ability to ask questions of the participants from viewers
around the world. Get your Yahoo ID and download Yahoo Messenger from
http://messenger.yahoo.com/. Add <floundervision> to your friends list.

 

More later.

I'd like to do one motor assembly.. So, if no one else brings a motor to
build, I'll come up with one.

 

As always, kids and spouses are welcome. We may have some time set aside for
the go kart track, if the weather cooperates. We'll be coming up with some
non-homo club  activities for those womenfolk that would like to come along,
but not spend all day with us dopes in the shop. Details on that as they
develop.

 

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Thu Sep 27 18:36:57 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 19:36:57 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] [Spridgets] SOS '07,
	a Little bit of Spridget Heaven part 1
In-Reply-To: <cc6.1d4be883.342da4cc@aol.com>
References: <cc6.1d4be883.342da4cc@aol.com>
Message-ID: <00a901c80167$aedf2ce0$0c9d86a0$@com>

HoCo

 

SOS., is a Midwest gathering, stands for  Save our Sprites (or Save our
Spridgets for the more ecumenical types). 

 

It  was inspired by OSHIT out east. Organized Sprite Handymen in Transit. 

 

OSHIT also went on to inspire the Buster Cluster out west.

 

This is our 4th or 5th year of SOS. Generally, we'll have 10 to 20 folks
here each day, and 20+ watching the even worldwide on the Yahoo Messenger
web cam broadcast. The broadcast is set up so folks watching can ask
questions in real time that we can hear and respond to, or type their
questions or comments in the forum.

 

From: Miniac7 at aol.com [mailto:Miniac7 at aol.com] 
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 7:29 PM
To: wsthompson at thicko.com
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] SOS '07, a Little bit of Spridget Heaven part 1

 

I need help recalling....

 

What does SOS stand for?

 

And, what does OSHIT stand for?

 

Howard Collins





  _____  

See what's new at AOL.com <http://www.aol.com?NCID=AOLCMP00300000001170>
and Make AOL Your
<http://www.aol.com/mksplash.adp?NCID=AOLCMP00300000001169>  Homepage.

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Thu Sep 27 18:44:57 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 19:44:57 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] SOS dates
Message-ID: <00ae01c80168$cd4f4510$67edcf30$@com>

SOS will once again take place the Friday and Saturday after Thanksgiving.

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From healey100m at gmail.com  Thu Sep 27 19:03:17 2007
From: healey100m at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 21:03:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Pictures of a Track Day gone bad
In-Reply-To: <46FC47D3.1050904@aol.com>
References: <46FC47D3.1050904@aol.com>
Message-ID: <5C6B361B-96F6-436D-A672-087380FE8454@gmail.com>

The pictures don't show how horrific this crash was. We saw it happen.

He went very hard in and it took almost 45 min. to get him out of the  
car.

The word later was that the driver would not let the safety workers  
cut the car to get him out. He said that he had already done enough  
damage and wasn't going to let them do more.

Randy Hicks


On Sep 27, 2007, at 8:19 PM, "Bob Brown" <BlkBt7 at aol.com> wrote:

> Attached are some pictures of an Iso Grifo A3C that had bad day at the
> track.    By the way, the car was for sale at the time.  The owner
> thought the track was a good way to promote it.  He was asking 800,000
> Euros.
>
> http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/showthread.php?s=f55c0bdf5f19a0da7d7641c9012a20c5&t=47705
>
> http://www.pbase.com/steephill/strettoncrash
> _______________________________________________
> healey100m at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Sep 27 19:17:19 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 09:17:19 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Pictures of a Track Day gone bad
In-Reply-To: <46FC47D3.1050904@aol.com>
References: <46FC47D3.1050904@aol.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709271817t39089e5cn281954aa0e117277@mail.gmail.com>

Wow, 800K euro.  It wasn't that long ago (80's) that you could pick up
an Iso for ~ $20K.  I guess at that time Americans were hot on the
Pantera as a much better car but the Iso is still the most beautiful
mark ever to carry Detriot iron.

On 9/28/07, Bob Brown <BlkBt7 at aol.com> wrote:
> Attached are some pictures of an Iso Grifo A3C that had bad day at the
> track.    By the way, the car was for sale at the time.  The owner
> thought the track was a good way to promote it.  He was asking 800,000
> Euros.
>
> http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/showthread.php?s=f55c0bdf5f19a0da7d7641c9012a20c5&t=47705

From ahpowered at hotmail.com  Thu Sep 27 19:25:00 2007
From: ahpowered at hotmail.com (scott willis)
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 20:25:00 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Pictures of a Track Day gone bad
In-Reply-To: <5C6B361B-96F6-436D-A672-087380FE8454@gmail.com>
References: <46FC47D3.1050904@aol.com>
	<5C6B361B-96F6-436D-A672-087380FE8454@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BLU111-W28D705FE6AD932F2A87C05B8B20@phx.gbl>

Now that is tragic.Scott WillisMashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA59 MGA66 E-Type FHC
http://www.geocities.com/bgeuroclassics/BG_Euro.htmlBG Euro Classics Car Club
PresidentBowling Green, KY> To: BlkBt7 at aol.com> Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007
21:03:17 -0400> From: healey100m at gmail.com> CC: team-thicko at autox.team.net;
healeys at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pictures of a Track Day gone
bad> > The pictures don't show how horrific this crash was. We saw it happen.>
> He went very hard in and it took almost 45 min. to get him out of the >
car.> > The word later was that the driver would not let the safety workers >
cut the car to get him out. He said that he had already done enough > damage
and wasn't going to let them do more.> > Randy Hicks> > > On Sep 27, 2007, at
8:19 PM, "Bob Brown" <BlkBt7 at aol.com> wrote:> > > Attached are some pictures
of an Iso Grifo A3C that had bad day at the> > track. By the way, the car was
for sale at the time. The owner> > thought the track was a good way to promote
it. He was asking 800,000> > Euros.> >> >
http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/showthread.php?s=f55c0bdf5f19a0da7d7641c9012a
20c5&t=47705> >> > http://www.pbase.com/steephill/strettoncrash> >
_______________________________________________> > healey100m at gmail.com> >> >
Healeys at autox.team.net> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
_______________________________________________> ahpowered at hotmail.com > >
Healeys at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
_________________________________________________________________
Discover the new Windows Vista
http://search.msn.com/results.aspx?q=windows+vista&mkt=en-US&form=QBRE

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Thu Sep 27 21:15:19 2007
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (James  Shope)
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 20:15:19 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] playing detective
Message-ID: <006501c8017d$ccb9fd60$5201a8c0@Jim>

my friends bj8 started running rough a while back. we were going to do a
tuneup but a compression check showed only 60 psi in #6.  machine shop found a
crack and pinned it, plus all new valves, hardened seats, and new guides. new
rings and bearing were also put in.  after reassembly, all cylinders but #1
had 125-130 psi.  1 had no compression. after checking everything we could,
off came the head again.  nothing is wrong!!  the valves look perfect and held
solvent for over an hour with nothing coming out of the ports.  the cylinder
held solvent until we wiped it out.  the gasket looks perfect.  we took valves
out and checked them and they appear absolutely perfect.  what else can it be.
#1 was fine before going to shop and appears perfect now.  anyone ever had
anything like this happen?  now is your chance to be a columbo or dirty harry.
do your duty and send a clue.   healeymanjim










1

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Thu Sep 27 21:20:15 2007
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 23:20:15 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] playing detective
References: <006501c8017d$ccb9fd60$5201a8c0@Jim>
Message-ID: <00f801c8017e$7d509800$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>

Are you sure you don't have a rocker clearance set a little too tight?

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>
To: "healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 11:15 PM
Subject: [Healeys] playing detective


> my friends bj8 started running rough a while back. we were going to do a
> tuneup but a compression check showed only 60 psi in #6.  machine shop 
> found a
> crack and pinned it, plus all new valves, hardened seats, and new guides. 
> new
> rings and bearing were also put in.  after reassembly, all cylinders but 
> #1
> had 125-130 psi.  1 had no compression. after checking everything we 
> could,
> off came the head again.  nothing is wrong!!  the valves look perfect and 
> held
> solvent for over an hour with nothing coming out of the ports.  the 
> cylinder
> held solvent until we wiped it out.  the gasket looks perfect.  we took 
> valves
> out and checked them and they appear absolutely perfect.  what else can it 
> be.
> #1 was fine before going to shop and appears perfect now.  anyone ever had
> anything like this happen?  now is your chance to be a columbo or dirty 
> harry.
> do your duty and send a clue.   healeymanjim
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 1
> _______________________________________________
> richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Thu Sep 27 22:44:48 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 23:44:48 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] playing detective
References: <006501c8017d$ccb9fd60$5201a8c0@Jim>
	<00f801c8017e$7d509800$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>
Message-ID: <00a001c8018a$4de7ca50$6401a8c0@toshibauser>

OK, I'll bite, cracked piston ring on installation?? can you test by holding 
something flat and slightly larger than the cylinder against the top of the 
block while turning the motor on the starter, compare the suction and push 
you get with the other cylinders.

I don't know if a cracked ring gets you to zero, I would think it would just 
lower compression.

Pushrod not properly seated in a lifter hence valve motion not appropriate?? 
(probably would have noticed when adjusting the valves)

Sticking valve?  Valve guide pushed in too far (probably not if valves are 
sealing properly when the head is not installed.)

Did you turn the motor over either by starter or hand when the head was on 
and valve cover off to see if the valves were all moving as they should at 
least to the eye?

Good Luck

Greg Lemon
54 BN1

From bj8mk3 at shaw.ca  Thu Sep 27 23:37:05 2007
From: bj8mk3 at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 22:37:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] playing detective
In-Reply-To: <006501c8017d$ccb9fd60$5201a8c0@Jim>
Message-ID: <000801c80191$9a95e6a0$0e02a8c0@ecarecenters.net>

The quickest way to tell your problem is by doing a leak down test.

There are specialized tools for this purpose but, you can do it without.

Using a pressurized air hose with an adaptor to fit in the sparkplug hole,
pressurize the cylinder you want to test with about 150 lbs of air.

Because you have no compression in this cylinder, the air will leak out:  If
it leaks out the carburetor or the exhaust pipe, you have a leaky valve
(intake or exhaust depending upon where the air comes out):  If the air
leaks out through the rings, you will hear the "hiss" through the oil
dipstick tube.

A least then, you will know where to look.

Good Luck.

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+bj8mk3=shaw.ca at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+bj8mk3=shaw.ca at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of James
Shope
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 8:15 PM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] playing detective

my friends bj8 started running rough a while back. we were going to do a
tuneup but a compression check showed only 60 psi in #6.  machine shop found
a
crack and pinned it, plus all new valves, hardened seats, and new guides.
new
rings and bearing were also put in.  after reassembly, all cylinders but #1
had 125-130 psi.  1 had no compression. after checking everything we could,
off came the head again.  nothing is wrong!!  the valves look perfect and
held
solvent for over an hour with nothing coming out of the ports.  the cylinder
held solvent until we wiped it out.  the gasket looks perfect.  we took
valves
out and checked them and they appear absolutely perfect.  what else can it
be.
#1 was fine before going to shop and appears perfect now.  anyone ever had
anything like this happen?  now is your chance to be a columbo or dirty
harry.
do your duty and send a clue.   healeymanjim










1
_______________________________________________
bj8mk3 at shaw.ca 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Sep 28 00:07:36 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 14:07:36 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] playing detective
In-Reply-To: <00a001c8018a$4de7ca50$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
References: <006501c8017d$ccb9fd60$5201a8c0@Jim>
	<00f801c8017e$7d509800$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>
	<00a001c8018a$4de7ca50$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709272307r39621206q4ad53ab894aed1f5@mail.gmail.com>

Greg -

Before cracked ring I'd guess scored cylinder...

Alan

On 9/28/07, Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com> wrote:
> OK, I'll bite, cracked piston ring on installation?? can you test by holding
> something flat and slightly larger than the cylinder against the top of the
> block while turning the motor on the starter, compare the suction and push
> you get with the other cylinders.
>
> I don't know if a cracked ring gets you to zero, I would think it would just
> lower compression.
>
> Pushrod not properly seated in a lifter hence valve motion not appropriate??
> (probably would have noticed when adjusting the valves)
>
> Sticking valve?  Valve guide pushed in too far (probably not if valves are
> sealing properly when the head is not installed.)
>
> Did you turn the motor over either by starter or hand when the head was on
> and valve cover off to see if the valves were all moving as they should at
> least to the eye?
>
> Good Luck
>
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Fri Sep 28 00:35:31 2007
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 23:35:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] playing detective
In-Reply-To: <000801c80191$9a95e6a0$0e02a8c0@ecarecenters.net>
References: <006501c8017d$ccb9fd60$5201a8c0@Jim>
	<000801c80191$9a95e6a0$0e02a8c0@ecarecenters.net>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10709272335xa5f3c15n8331b95684ee1f49@mail.gmail.com>

If you put 150 PSI into a cylinder you will wind up pushing the piston to
bottom dead center.  Pushing the piston to BTC will open one valve,
depending on which way the engine rotates.  ask me how I know this.  An
engine only runs about about 60 PSI at idle, and that is enough to push the
piston down.  even with a large leak in the cylinder there is an excellent
change that your compressor can supply the air faster than the problem can
leak it out.  In this case the engine will still rotate.
I am going to go with there is a problem with the valve train.  Either a
rocker is bound up, valves are mis adjusted, a valve is hung up in the head,
or a pushrod is somehow stuck holding the valve open.

Rick



On 9/27/07, PG <bj8mk3 at shaw.ca> wrote:
>
> The quickest way to tell your problem is by doing a leak down test.
>
> There are specialized tools for this purpose but, you can do it without.
>
> Using a pressurized air hose with an adaptor to fit in the sparkplug hole,
> pressurize the cylinder you want to test with about 150 lbs of air.
>
> Because you have no compression in this cylinder, the air will leak
> out:  If
> it leaks out the carburetor or the exhaust pipe, you have a leaky valve
> (intake or exhaust depending upon where the air comes out):  If the air
> leaks out through the rings, you will hear the "hiss" through the oil
> dipstick tube.
>
> A least then, you will know where to look.
>
> Good Luck.
>
> Paul

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Fri Sep 28 04:30:59 2007
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 06:30:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] playing detective
In-Reply-To: <a3b984e10709272335xa5f3c15n8331b95684ee1f49@mail.gmail.com>
References: <006501c8017d$ccb9fd60$5201a8c0@Jim>
	<000801c80191$9a95e6a0$0e02a8c0@ecarecenters.net>
	<a3b984e10709272335xa5f3c15n8331b95684ee1f49@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <46FCD7E3.2060201@earthlink.net>

My leak down tester only uses 100psi. It can rotate my MGB engine (haven't 
used it on the Healey six), usually happens when the piston is not quite at 
TDC.  I use a wrench on the crankshaft nut to keep the crank from rotating. 
  In gear helps too - with the rear wheels on the ground and/or the parking 
brake on.

Bob

Richard Ewald wrote:
> If you put 150 PSI into a cylinder you will wind up pushing the piston to
> bottom dead center.  Pushing the piston to BTC will open one valve,
> depending on which way the engine rotates.  ask me how I know this.  An
> engine only runs about about 60 PSI at idle, and that is enough to push the
> piston down.  even with a large leak in the cylinder there is an excellent
> change that your compressor can supply the air faster than the problem can
> leak it out.  In this case the engine will still rotate.
> I am going to go with there is a problem with the valve train.  Either a
> rocker is bound up, valves are mis adjusted, a valve is hung up in the head,
> or a pushrod is somehow stuck holding the valve open.
> 
> Rick

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Fri Sep 28 05:15:54 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 06:15:54 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] [Spridgets] SOS '07,
	a Little bit of Spridget Heaven part 1
In-Reply-To: <3297996.1190977362987.JavaMail.root@wmvirt3>
References: <3297996.1190977362987.JavaMail.root@wmvirt3>
Message-ID: <002601c801c0$f15d6ec0$d4184c40$@com>

Yeah, but I think we skipped a year or two.

That was fun... folks shipped in food from all over. He calamari?....
Uggghhh.. makes me want to cack. The scrapple was fairly non-descript, but
did look like rotting flesh. We also did Swedish pancakes. 

Cheese curds.... now you're talking. We'll do those again for sure.

All about cheese curds at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cheese_curds

Way back then... (when I used to walk 10 miles to school, uphill, both ways)
we were really pushing the envelope trying to broadcast SOS via a very shaky
scabbed internet connection from Peter's tenant. We were using an ancient
Win 98 Dell that my old company had tossed away.


-----Original Message-----
From: spridgets-bounces+wsthompson=thicko.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:spridgets-bounces+wsthompson=thicko.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
bushwacker4 at zoomtown.com
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 6:03 AM
To: Spridgets
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] SOS '07, a Little bit of Spridget Heaven part 1

This would be number 7. 2001 was the first, but you probably blocked it out
after I brought Calamari and deep fried it next door at the 4th Quarter bar.
You did the turkey on the grill, 'member? "Flounder Gives Us The bird".

I was there... Don't forget the cheese curds and scrapple. I missed the
scrapple due to a late arrival fortunately. Still haven't figured out what
the heck a cheese curd is...

Kent
1960 Bugeye
1975 Midget - trailerparked queeen

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Fri Sep 28 06:18:11 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 07:18:11 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] SOS beta tester sacrificial lambs needed
Message-ID: <003301c801c9$a4f086e0$eed194a0$@com>

Hey y'all,

 

For years, we've broadcast SOS via Yahoo messenger.

 

The good.

 

Yahoo Messenger is used by many people already. Many already have a Yahoo
ID. It's free. It supports both audio and video. When in a conference room,
all can have microphones, and speak to each other in real time. Video
qualities have improved with better bandwidth and video codecs.

 

The cons.

 

Many fear the possibility of Yahoo taking over their computers, their minds,
their lives. Some folks are technically challenged and are unable to set
their configurations properly.

 

The question..

 

Anyone have personal experience with a WebCam broadcasting/streaming
software that you've found to work well? I'd like to experiment with some
options in advance of SOS. We'll need some volunteers.

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From alan at andysnet.net  Fri Sep 28 06:59:27 2007
From: alan at andysnet.net (Alan Schultz)
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 07:59:27 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] playing detective
In-Reply-To: <006501c8017d$ccb9fd60$5201a8c0@Jim>
References: <006501c8017d$ccb9fd60$5201a8c0@Jim>
Message-ID: <46FCFAAF.80807@andysnet.net>

New guides! New valves! Hmmm. Not enough clearance. Valve stuck open?
Alan S.

James Shope wrote:
> my friends bj8 started running rough a while back. we were going to do a
> tuneup but a compression check showed only 60 psi in #6.  machine shop found a
> crack and pinned it, plus all new valves, hardened seats, and new guides. new
> rings and bearing were also put in.  after reassembly, all cylinders but #1
> had 125-130 psi.  1 had no compression. after checking everything we could,

From autofarm at cyg.net  Fri Sep 28 08:20:33 2007
From: autofarm at cyg.net (Bob Yule)
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 10:20:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] playing detective
References: <006501c8017d$ccb9fd60$5201a8c0@Jim>
Message-ID: <000a01c801da$bc8b6750$6400a8c0@OFFICE>

    I would suspect the guides.  Getting hot and expanding and holding onto 
the valves.  Are the new guides bronze?  There have been problems with 
these.
Cheers.......Bob
Check out our web site www.autofarm.net
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>
To: "healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 11:15 PM
Subject: [Healeys] playing detective


> my friends bj8 started running rough a while back. we were going to do a
> tuneup but a compression check showed only 60 psi in #6.  machine shop 
> found a
> crack and pinned it, plus all new valves, hardened seats, and new guides. 
> new
> rings and bearing were also put in.  after reassembly, all cylinders but 
> #1
> had 125-130 psi.  1 had no compression. after checking everything we 
> could,
> off came the head again.  nothing is wrong!!  the valves look perfect and 
> held
> solvent for over an hour with nothing coming out of the ports.  the 
> cylinder
> held solvent until we wiped it out.  the gasket looks perfect.  we took 
> valves
> out and checked them and they appear absolutely perfect.  what else can it 
> be.
> #1 was fine before going to shop and appears perfect now.  anyone ever had
> anything like this happen?  now is your chance to be a columbo or dirty 
> harry.
> do your duty and send a clue.   healeymanjim
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 1

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Fri Sep 28 08:45:55 2007
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 10:45:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] playing detective
In-Reply-To: <006501c8017d$ccb9fd60$5201a8c0@Jim>
Message-ID: <20070928144706.BBF12187A6B@autox.team.net>

Hi James,
As you have probably concluded "something just does not add up here". If the
piston seal, valve seal and gasket are all good there is no where else for
the compression to leak. 
I would have to agree with the others that the issue has to be valves. If
you are using bronze guides, and you have run the engine I would recommend
that you read this. http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=384
I have some questions,
1. Did the engine actually run after assembly and before you did the
compression test?
2. Did you actually check for valve clearance at the same time that you did
the compression test?
3. Are you absolutely sure that there was not something inside the ports of
#1 cylinder.
I had a similar issue on a TR6 many years ago when a nut had made its way
into the intake. Sometimes it would just hold the valve open others it would
allow it to close. It wasn't small enough to go through the valve opening
and it fell out of the port as the head was being turned on its side after
removal. Of course nobody had any idea where the nut had come from!!!

Michael Salter
100S (1955)
3000 Mk111(1965)
100 (1953)
AHX12 (1953)
Bugeye (1961)
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of James Shope
Sent: September 27, 2007 11:15 PM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] playing detective

my friends bj8 started running rough a while back. we were going to do a
tuneup but a compression check showed only 60 psi in #6.  machine shop found
a
crack and pinned it, plus all new valves, hardened seats, and new guides.
new
rings and bearing were also put in.  after reassembly, all cylinders but #1
had 125-130 psi.  1 had no compression. after checking everything we could,
off came the head again.  nothing is wrong!!  the valves look perfect and
held
solvent for over an hour with nothing coming out of the ports.  the cylinder
held solvent until we wiped it out.  the gasket looks perfect.  we took
valves
out and checked them and they appear absolutely perfect.  what else can it
be.
#1 was fine before going to shop and appears perfect now.  anyone ever had
anything like this happen?  now is your chance to be a columbo or dirty
harry.
do your duty and send a clue.   healeymanjim

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Fri Sep 28 09:34:04 2007
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 11:34:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Differential Housing
In-Reply-To: <20070928144706.BBF12187A6B@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20070928153515.EB35F187A8C@autox.team.net>

During the Targa Newfoundland this year we were put out for 2 days as a
result of a bent axle casing. The roads of Newfoundland can be brutal on
suspension. The casing I use on AHX12 is a BN1 (spiral bevel) type. This
type of axle casing has an abrupt change of section about 12 inches in from
each hub and this, it would seem, is the weakest area because that is where
it bent. 
It is interesting that the 100S, although everything else is the same, does
not use a casing with this change of section, I guess I now know why.
Interestingly in Gander, Newfoundland, while the axle casing was lying on
the ground beside the car, a chap came up and started taking lots of
pictures of it. It turns out that his company manufactures axle casings and
is presently developing a "new" manufacturing technique for them using a
single sheet of material requiring one weld, rather than 2 halves welded
together as is the standard North American process today. The amazing thing
is that that is how the BN1 axle casing is manufactured!!!
I guess there is some truth to "There is nothing new under the sun".

Michael Salter
100S (1955)
3000 Mk111(1965)
100 (1953)
AHX12 (1953)
Bugeye (1961)
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/

From quenty at ntelos.net  Fri Sep 28 10:12:41 2007
From: quenty at ntelos.net (Dave Schweninger)
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 12:12:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Carb jet tube clearance
In-Reply-To: <002901c80074$971b1540$f030eb42@FRED>
References: <46FA9120.4070002@wowway.com> <002901c80074$971b1540$f030eb42@FRED>
Message-ID: <2C13CAD8-7EC8-43D7-BC9F-8FF5DDF135EF@ntelos.net>

Hi Guys
I'm really curious about this. When I installed my steering column I  
centered it in the instrument panel and let the rest of the pieces  
fall where they may. I just looked again and every thing is on dead  
center, fire wall, big column brace and the instrument panel.
I keep hearing that "No two Healeys are alike". However I don't think  
that answers this discrepancy. Obviously these cars were put together  
in an assembly fixture. Even with sheet metal wandering around as it  
does, the steering gear would have to move to the right about 5", or  
the scuttle about 1/2". Not likely.
Dan's picture shows his engine side to side alignment to be almost  
exactly the same as mine. however vertically it's about 3/8" Higher.  
I'm beginning to think that the difference is in the intake manifold.  
Also not likely.
I measured from the steel heat shield to the carb face at the air  
cleaner 4 17/32".
The jet is 1 15/16" long from the carb flange.
Thanks
Dave

On Sep 26, 2007, at 3:36 PM, John Snyder wrote:

> I have had the same problem w/ more than one tri-carb.  Luckily I  
> find it
> b/4 the body panels are installed.  The steering box has a clamp  
> which can
> be loosened, the metal plates (both sides of the firewall) w/ the big
> grommets for the column have oversized holes for their 4 screws.  
> The support
> channel w/ the column clamp behind the instrument panel has slots   
> at both
> ends.  Loosen everything, and push the column to the left as far as  
> the
> opening in the instrument panel will allow.  There should be just  
> enough
> clearance for the choke to work.  Sounds easy, but might be much  
> harder w/
> the body installed.  (I've done 3 ground up restos on tri-carbs,  
> and had
> this problem on as least 2 of them.  Maybe there is something you  
> and I are
> missing about assembling the carbs/manifolds)
> John Snyder
>
>
>> Fellow listers,
>> I have a 1962 BN7 tri carb.  I'm doing the reassembly part of the
>> restoration and find that the jet head on the rear carb is extremely
>> close to the steering tube.  It's so close that if the choke were  
>> to be
>> operated there would be no possible downward movement at all.  So far
>> I've found out that the jet is the correct length for the carb (some
>> after market jets are longer than the original equipment).  The frame
>> hasn't been damaged/bent.  Engine and trans mounts are new.  I've
>> researched the list archives and not found anything relating to this
>> problem.  Steering tube looks to be centered through the firewall and
>> dash.  Carbs, heat shield and spacers are correctly assembled.   
>> From my
>> reading of the workshop manual and looking at it's mounts I don't  
>> think
>> the steering tube can be moved away from the jet head.  Anyone ever
>> experience a clearance problem like this?  Any thoughts would be
>> appreciated.
>> Thanks, Dan
> _______________________________________________
> quenty at ntelos.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From robert.w.johnson at charter.net  Fri Sep 28 13:45:09 2007
From: robert.w.johnson at charter.net (Bob Johnson)
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 15:45:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] True Friday Funny:Nuts
Message-ID: <001c01c80208$1460a0d0$021919ac@valued28addca9>

Yesterday my wife and I were out and about in her 1995 Camry (the car that I
wish she would trade.)  Had lunch and then decided to go up the road a bit to
a different shopping center.  As we went up the interstate, we noticed a
burning smell.  We were behind a large truck and the smell was like that of
wood smoke.  Looked at car gauges but didn't see anything out of order and car
was handling fine so decided it must be the truck or wondered that even with
our serious drought situation here in NC that maybe some nut had an outside
wood fire disregarding the  drought or even worse, a forest fire.

Got off highway, smell seemed to abate.  Quit worrying, stopped and shopped.

On way home, about 10 miles, we again were in crawling traffic and again
noticed our wood burning smell.  Dash looked fine, car was handling fine, but
we decided to pull off to investigate further.  As we pulled off we noticed
smoke coming out from the area of the right front wheel area and  from the
hood area over that.  Opened the hood....I stepped back wondering if she was
going to get a new car out of this.

The hood opened and sure enough, we had lots of smoke and there in an area
between the exhaust manifold and the engine block  there were smoking, red
glowing, spherical objects with a mighty smell.  On further investigation,
these objects were found to be acorns!  Apparently a squirrel or rat or
something was storing their winter supply there.  I've never smelled chestnuts
roasting on a open fire, but let me assure you acorns stink!

Unfortunately, we seem to be getting the stink out. Damn, she still won't
trade.


Bob Johnson
BJ8

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Fri Sep 28 17:00:56 2007
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 19:00:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] overdrive oil pump question
Message-ID: <BAY108-F3735AAB5AE100C263833B2C8B20@phx.gbl>

Hi all,
What could be the problem when the pump body of the OD on a bj8 will not 
come out of the unit after the non return valve assembly has been removed?  
The pump shaft goes up and down when manually operated but the body will not 
come out even with a lot of force on a puller attached to the threads on the 
pump body.  I am afraid of destroying something if more force is used.  Is 
there a need to remove this if there is spring action on the plunger shaft 
as indicated?  It appears that I don't have any oil pressure to operate the 
OD.  The operating valve appears to be moving normally when the solenoid is 
activated.  Sunday my rebuilder will be coming over and I want to have some 
suggestions for him from you all.  The OD is still in the car and we will go 
through all the suggested checks then if nothing can be found we will tear 
the bugger out.

When he rebuilt the OD he could not get the pump body out of the casing but 
the action seemed OK to him so he rebiult everything else and assembled the 
unit.  He said the pump usually never fails.

PLease give me a direction to proceed if you can.

Thanks,

George
'65 bj8

_________________________________________________________________
Gear up for Halo. 3 with free downloads and an exclusive offer. 
http://gethalo3gear.com?ocid=SeptemberWLHalo3_MSNHMTxt_1

From jmitch at snet.net  Fri Sep 28 18:08:14 2007
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 20:08:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Connecticut Jaguar show
Message-ID: <46FD976E.5050607@snet.net>

   Does anyone know if the Connecticut Jaguar's Purr-In is on for 
Sunday,  at Indian Wells in Shelton.  Thanks, John Mitchell 

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Fri Sep 28 18:36:33 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 20:36:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] True Friday Funny:Nuts
Message-ID: <380-22007962903633812@earthlink.net>

You ever had roasted mouse?




> [Original Message]
> From: Bob Johnson <robert.w.johnson at charter.net>
> To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 9/28/2007 3:45:27 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] True Friday Funny:Nuts
>
> Yesterday my wife and I were out and about in her 1995 Camry (the car
that I
> wish she would trade.)  Had lunch and then decided to go up the road a
bit to
> a different shopping center.  As we went up the interstate, we noticed a
> burning smell.  We were behind a large truck and the smell was like that
of
> wood smoke.  Looked at car gauges but didn't see anything out of order
and car
> was handling fine so decided it must be the truck or wondered that even
with
> our serious drought situation here in NC that maybe some nut had an
outside
> wood fire disregarding the  drought or even worse, a forest fire.
>
> Got off highway, smell seemed to abate.  Quit worrying, stopped and
shopped.
>
> On way home, about 10 miles, we again were in crawling traffic and again
> noticed our wood burning smell.  Dash looked fine, car was handling fine,
but
> we decided to pull off to investigate further.  As we pulled off we
noticed
> smoke coming out from the area of the right front wheel area and  from the
> hood area over that.  Opened the hood....I stepped back wondering if she
was
> going to get a new car out of this.
>
> The hood opened and sure enough, we had lots of smoke and there in an area
> between the exhaust manifold and the engine block  there were smoking, red
> glowing, spherical objects with a mighty smell.  On further investigation,
> these objects were found to be acorns!  Apparently a squirrel or rat or
> something was storing their winter supply there.  I've never smelled
chestnuts
> roasting on a open fire, but let me assure you acorns stink!
>
> Unfortunately, we seem to be getting the stink out. Damn, she still won't
> trade.
>
>
> Bob Johnson
> BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From geatros at shaw.ca  Fri Sep 28 19:56:50 2007
From: geatros at shaw.ca (geatros)
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 18:56:50 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Tri carb for sale photos
Message-ID: <000e01c8023c$00a07c30$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>

Here's some photos of my BT7 Tri Carb for sale. If interested contact me off
the Healey List.

Cheers
Kenny

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Austin Healeys 016.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Austin Healeys 019.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Austin Healeys 021.jpg]

From helyjohn at cablespeed.com  Fri Sep 28 20:56:49 2007
From: helyjohn at cablespeed.com (John Snyder)
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007 18:56:49 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Carb jet tube clearance
Message-ID: <002401c80244$61cc4db0$f030eb42@FRED>

> OK, I don't know what to say.  (see my post 2 levels down)  If I'm missing 
> something, I wish someone would tell me what it is.  Maybe someone like 
> Rich Chrysler could help out here.  Right now I'm doing a ground up resto 
> on HBN7L 605 (one of the first 3000s) and don't have to worry about the 
> third carb jet  :-).  John Snyder

>> Hi Guys
>> I'm really curious about this. When I installed my steering column I 
>> centered it in the instrument panel and let the rest of the pieces  fall 
>> where they may. I just looked again and every thing is on dead  center, 
>> fire wall, big column brace and the instrument panel.
>> I keep hearing that "No two Healeys are alike". However I don't think 
>> that answers this discrepancy. Obviously these cars were put together  in 
>> an assembly fixture. Even with sheet metal wandering around as it  does, 
>> the steering gear would have to move to the right about 5", or  the 
>> scuttle about 1/2". Not likely. Dan's picture shows his engine side to 
>> side alignment to be almost  exactly the same as mine. however vertically 
>> it's about 3/8" Higher.  I'm beginning to think that the difference is in 
>> the intake manifold.  Also not likely. I measured from the steel heat 
>> shield to the carb face at the air  cleaner 4 17/32". The jet is 1 15/16" 
>> long from the carb flange.
>> Thanks
>> Dave
>>
>> On Sep 26, 2007, at 3:36 PM, John Snyder wrote:
>>
>>> I have had the same problem w/ more than one tri-carb.  Luckily I  find 
>>> it b/4 the body panels are installed.  The steering box has a clamp 
>>> which can be loosened, the metal plates (both sides of the firewall) w/ 
>>> the big
>>> grommets for the column have oversized holes for their 4 screws.  The 
>>> support channel w/ the column clamp behind the instrument panel has 
>>> slots at both ends.  Loosen everything, and push the column to the left 
>>> as far as  the opening in the instrument panel will allow.  There should 
>>> be just enough clearance for the choke to work.  Sounds easy, but might 
>>> be much harder w/ the body installed.  (I've done 3 ground up restos on 
>>> tri-carbs,  and had this problem on as least 2 of them.  Maybe there is 
>>> something you  and I are missing about assembling the carbs/manifolds)

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Fri Sep 28 23:40:30 2007
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 15:40:30 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] True Friday Funny:Nuts
In-Reply-To: <380-22007962903633812@earthlink.net>
References: <380-22007962903633812@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <004101c8025b$404a26a0$4101a8c0@ibm45xm8v45fmw>

G'day

A couple of everyday cars back we used a Mk2 Jaguar. Lovely period car but
terrible to work on, so much so that if a spanner fitted it was probably a
Jaguar design fault.

One summer it developed a terrible dead animal smell. We looked for the
source everywhere without success. Some weeks later I turned the heater on
and almost had to get out of the car as the smell became far worse.

It turned out that there was a dead mouse in the heating system. It must
have worked it way in and when one of the heating flaps was actuated it was
squashed. Four hours later I had the heater apart and squishy mouse was
removed.

Just a month later the car expired in a flailing of chains followed by
valves crashing into pistons. That was followed by a XJ6 mobile oil change.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+p_cquinn=tpg.com.au at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+p_cquinn=tpg.com.au at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom
Felts
Sent: Saturday, 29 September 2007 10:37 AM
To: Bob Johnson; Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] True Friday Funny:Nuts

You ever had roasted mouse?




> [Original Message]
> From: Bob Johnson <robert.w.johnson at charter.net>
> To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 9/28/2007 3:45:27 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] True Friday Funny:Nuts
>
> Yesterday my wife and I were out and about in her 1995 Camry (the car
that I
> wish she would trade.)  Had lunch and then decided to go up the road a
bit to
> a different shopping center.  As we went up the interstate, we noticed a
> burning smell.  We were behind a large truck and the smell was like that
of
> wood smoke.  Looked at car gauges but didn't see anything out of order
and car
> was handling fine so decided it must be the truck or wondered that even
with
> our serious drought situation here in NC that maybe some nut had an
outside
> wood fire disregarding the  drought or even worse, a forest fire.
>
> Got off highway, smell seemed to abate.  Quit worrying, stopped and
shopped.
>
> On way home, about 10 miles, we again were in crawling traffic and again
> noticed our wood burning smell.  Dash looked fine, car was handling fine,
but
> we decided to pull off to investigate further.  As we pulled off we
noticed
> smoke coming out from the area of the right front wheel area and  from the
> hood area over that.  Opened the hood....I stepped back wondering if she
was
> going to get a new car out of this.
>
> The hood opened and sure enough, we had lots of smoke and there in an area
> between the exhaust manifold and the engine block  there were smoking, red
> glowing, spherical objects with a mighty smell.  On further investigation,
> these objects were found to be acorns!  Apparently a squirrel or rat or
> something was storing their winter supply there.  I've never smelled
chestnuts
> roasting on a open fire, but let me assure you acorns stink!
>
> Unfortunately, we seem to be getting the stink out. Damn, she still won't
> trade.
>
>
> Bob Johnson
> BJ8

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Sat Sep 29 06:06:24 2007
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 08:06:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] overdrive oil pump question
In-Reply-To: <BAY108-F3735AAB5AE100C263833B2C8B20@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20070929120738.1C039187A44@autox.team.net>

Hi George,
As I recall the pump housing is usually very tight in the housing. I have
the factory tool for removing it and it is a very robust piece of equipment
which is illustrated in the back of the Workshop Manual tool #18G183.
Also refitting the pump body is quite a chore as the screw holes must line
up, hence the replacer illustrated below the remover.
It is very unlikely that a pump body fault is the cause of your lack of
pressure as I have never known of one to be defective.
Sometimes the pump piston is damaged during the gearbox to overdrive
installation and this prevents the pump spring from pushing it down to
maintain contact with the cam. 
If you do decide to remove the pump body be very careful. I have seen
several overdrive casings ruined as a result of this operation being
performed incorrectly!!

Michael Salter
100S (1955)
3000 Mk111(1965)
100 (1953)
AHX12 (1953)
Bugeye (1961)
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of George Haywood
Sent: September 28, 2007 7:01 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] overdrive oil pump question

Hi all,
What could be the problem when the pump body of the OD on a bj8 will not 
come out of the unit after the non return valve assembly has been removed?  
The pump shaft goes up and down when manually operated but the body will not

come out even with a lot of force on a puller attached to the threads on the

pump body.  I am afraid of destroying something if more force is used.  Is 
there a need to remove this if there is spring action on the plunger shaft 
as indicated?  It appears that I don't have any oil pressure to operate the 
OD.  The operating valve appears to be moving normally when the solenoid is 
activated.  Sunday my rebuilder will be coming over and I want to have some 
suggestions for him from you all.  The OD is still in the car and we will go

through all the suggested checks then if nothing can be found we will tear 
the bugger out.

When he rebuilt the OD he could not get the pump body out of the casing but 
the action seemed OK to him so he rebiult everything else and assembled the 
unit.  He said the pump usually never fails.

PLease give me a direction to proceed if you can.

Thanks,

George
'65 bj8

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Sat Sep 29 06:17:34 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 07:17:34 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] SOS '07 for the uninitiated
Message-ID: <001401c80292$b9834dd0$2c89e970$@com>

Hey y'all,

 

Yes. this message is for the uninitiated. Of course, the initiated have
already "run the gauntlet", and know what's in store for them.

 

Generally, we get started around 10AM. We'll work 'til around 4PM. Since
we'll have at least 3 or 4 simultaneous projects, you can jump in on
whatever interests you. If you're coming to learn, don't be shy. If you're
coming just to hang out, that is absolutely OK too. You need not be an
expert at anything to attend. just enjoy people or cars, or both.

 

If you intend to get dirty, please make sure to bring a change of clothes,
as we're go out for dinner Friday night. We'll be serving lunch both Fri. &
Sat. If you'd like to bring something to serve, please let me know in
advance. For those of you that can't attend, we do accept food
contributions, if you can safely ship them in a manner that won't kill us.
In the past, folks have sent clams, scrapple, calamari, brats, etc. 

 

The Thicko International World Headquarters are located at the Dream Farm. a
10 acre farm between Fond du Lac & Oshkosh Wisconsin.  We're smack dab in
the middle of dairy farm country. The Thicko shop (yes, it is also known as
the "homo club" ) is well lit, and well heated, should the weather be crap,
as it often is that time of year, we'll be comfortable. We have plenty of
parking.

 

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From Warthodson at aol.com  Sat Sep 29 08:11:17 2007
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 10:11:17 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] playing detective
Message-ID: <ce9.18881874.342fb705@aol.com>

I too have done dozens of leak down tests & do not find it difficult to 
locate top dead center on each cylinder. In fact is easy. Leak down testers do not 
require 150 PSI or any other specific pressure. One gage reads the pressure 
being supplied from the source. the other gage reads the pressure in the 
cylinder being tested. It is the percentage difference between the two gages that 
tells you how much "lead down" you have. For instance, if the supply is 79 PSI & 
the cylinder reads 71 PSI, the leak down is 8 PSI or 10%. 100 PSI supply 
pressure makes it easy to calculate the leak down percentage.
Gary Hodson
 
 
In a message dated 9/28/2007 9:57:32 AM Central Daylight Time, 
richard.ewald at gmail.com writes:

it is as much as an eyelash one way or the other 150 psi will push it down.  
Again ask me how I know this.  I have done dozens and dozens of leak down 
tests a professional technician.  Depending on the engine, I would use as little 
as 50 PSI to prevent such rotation. 
Next we get into the issue of just where do you get 150 PSI.  My home 
compressor wont' do that (commercial grade unit) and no shop I have worked in had 
that kind of pressure... :-)





************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Sat Sep 29 09:26:45 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 10:26:45 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] SOS '07 little projects
Message-ID: <000201c802ad$274f8620$75ee9260$@com>

We've got the ability to do a fair amount of sandblasting here.

 

If the weather's at all decent, you're welcome to do outdoor sandblasting of
anything large that you need to get to. Media (sand) is available minutes
away. 

 

As far as smaller stuff, we have one large cabinet. with sand, plenty big
for suspension parts, wheels, etc. Then there's a smaller cabinet with glass
bead for more delicate stuff you might need to clean up.

 

If you have stuff that needs cleaning up, bring it with you. I expect you'll
have an opportunity to get it done.

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From dwhite4949 at wowway.com  Sat Sep 29 16:50:25 2007
From: dwhite4949 at wowway.com (Daniel and Diane White)
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 18:50:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tri-carb jet tube clearance problem fixed
Message-ID: <46FED6B1.5090202@wowway.com>

Here's an update on the clearance issue I posted.  As you may recall, 
the jet head of the third carb was right on the steering tube. 
Following the directions of several listers (thank you for the 
responses) and a fix posted by Rich Chrysler back in 2005 I was able to 
undo the clamp bolt at the front of the steering box, the plates on each 
side of the firewall where the steering tube passes through and the 
bracket (top and bottom) that supports the steering tube under the dash. 
   A good shove moved the steering tube outboard and I picked up three 
eights inch- enough to move the jet head off the steering tube and allow 
the choke lever to move the head downward.  Fortunately the front shroud 
is not on yet.  When I originally searched the archives re this I should 
have varied the search entry- I would have seen the fix posted by Rich.
Regards, Dan

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Sat Sep 29 19:08:28 2007
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 01:08:28 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Carb jet tube clearance
In-Reply-To: <002401c80244$61cc4db0$f030eb42@FRED>
References: <002401c80244$61cc4db0$f030eb42@FRED>
Message-ID: <BAY108-W12F98C48D009452DABD98EC0AC0@phx.gbl>

Hi John and Listers:  I could not help see that you have HBN7L 605. I have
HBN7L 466. I wanted to take this opportunity to remind the Listers that these
(our) cars were made in 1959 (the 3000s started with serial number 101). I
cannot tell you over the years how many people have suggested my car is a
100-6. I have vintage raced it for almost 25 years. My number on the car is
466. I always list the car with a manufacturing date of 1959 and that is what
shows in the entry forms/program/time sheets, etc. I have the heritage
certificate somewhere but my recollection is that my car was built in July,
1959. When was your car built John?  Richard Mayor, Portland, Oregon> From:
helyjohn at cablespeed.com> To: healeys at autox.team.net> Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2007
18:56:49 -0800> Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Carb jet tube clearance> > > OK, I
don't know what to say. (see my post 2 levels down) If I'm missing > >
something, I wish someone would tell me what it is. Maybe someone like > >
Rich Chrysler could help out here. Right now I'm doing a ground up resto > >
on HBN7L 605 (one of the first 3000s) and don't have to worry about the > >
third carb jet :-). John Snyder>
_________________________________________________________________
Discover the new Windows Vista
http://search.msn.com/results.aspx?q=windows+vista&mkt=en-US&form=QBRE

From shop at justbrits.com  Sat Sep 29 19:27:06 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 20:27:06 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Carb jet tube clearance
References: <002401c80244$61cc4db0$f030eb42@FRED>
	<BAY108-W12F98C48D009452DABD98EC0AC0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <012b01c80301$04265210$6601a8c0@actualshop>

Geesh Rich,

<<I have the heritage certificate somewhere>>

I even a copy FRAMED and hanging in my shop.  A colour one is hanging on a
wall in my office and Org is in safety deposit box along with 3 FULL folders
of org. info re Hortense including Org Window sticker and copy of MSO.

Ed

From helyjohn at cablespeed.com  Sat Sep 29 21:22:30 2007
From: helyjohn at cablespeed.com (John Snyder)
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 19:22:30 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] HBN7L 605
References: <002401c80244$61cc4db0$f030eb42@FRED>
	<BAY108-W12F98C48D009452DABD98EC0AC0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <001701c80311$2382a130$f030eb42@FRED>

Hi Richard and List,

My BN7L-605 was built (per the BMIHT cert) April 6-7, 1959.  It was dispatched
to San Francisco, and sold to Allen Grant in Modesto, CA.  Allen auto-crossed
it until late '60 or early '61 when he sold it to Bob Darby.  Allen went on to
drive for Shelby in Cobras, and raced at Le Mans.  Bob raced it w/ moderate
success at Cotati, Reno, Vaca Valley, Candlestick Park, Port of Stockton until
about 1970.  Bob had the engine built by Hollywood Sports Car, w/ 3 HD6 carbs,
close ratio 4 speed, no O'd, 11.5:1 comp ratio, ect.  I talked to Bob and he
gave me a lot of data on the car.  Bob sold the car to Jerry Spain who
complained because it would not run on premium gasoline.  Somehow Allen got
the car back and put it in dry storage around 1973.  Mike Garrison in Modesto,
found the car in one of Allen's warehouses and bought the car, intending to
restore it, lost interest, and sold it to me in 2006. The car has been in dry
storage since around 1973, apparently never left the central California
valley.  NO rust, only 2 small dents, perfect panel fit.  A perfect car to
restore.  Allen Grant has been to my shop to see the car.  I'm taking it back
to factory specs.  It has some 100-6 features like the choke knob under the
dash, pointed rear reflectors, no 3000 ID badges.

The restoration is going slowly because I ripped up my shoulder, but it is now
a plumbed, wired, rolling chassis.  Engine pieces go to the machine shop early
October, and I will build the engine by mid Oct if all goes well.

John Snyder
Port Townsend, WA


  Hi John and Listers:  I could not help see that you have HBN7L 605. I have
HBN7L 466. I wanted to take this opportunity to remind the Listers that these
(our) cars were made in 1959 (the 3000s started with serial number 101). I
cannot tell you over the years how many people have suggested my car is a
100-6. I have vintage raced it for almost 25 years. My number on the car is
466. I always list the car with a manufacturing date of 1959 and that is what
shows in the entry forms/program/time sheets, etc. I have the heritage
certificate somewhere but my recollection is that my car was built in July,
1959. When was your car built John?  Richard Mayor, Portland, Oregon

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Sat Sep 29 20:25:23 2007
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (James  Shope)
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 19:25:23 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] playing detective
Message-ID: <004601c80309$277fe020$5201a8c0@Jim>

with all the responses suspecting the valve train, i have began to wonder.
with nothing obvious could it be possible that with new valves and guides, the
valve is hanging up and not closing fast enough.  the valve came out easily
and moved easily in the guide when we took the springs off, but is it possible
for it to return too slowly and allow compression to escape.  i know that it
was moving up and down but had no idea of how quickly it returned to full
close.  could this be possible or do the springs have too much tension for
this to happen.  healeymanjim

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Sat Sep 29 20:28:31 2007
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 22:28:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] overdrive oil pump question
Message-ID: <BAY108-F23DDB76A8A6982D28DB199C8AC0@phx.gbl>

Ron,
I think I'll pull the solenoid bracket and look to see whether the pump 
shaft is moving up and down.  That should tell me right away if the cam is 
on backwards.  Then I'll reseat the ball in the non-return valve and make 
sure the spring is OK.  After that I'll go the the operating valve again and 
adjust the solenoid and check the pressure.  If there is no obvious problems 
then I guess a tear down will be next.  That sounds like a winter job to me.

Thanks,

George


>From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
>To: "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>,"'George Haywood'" 
><haywoodone at hotmail.com>,<healeys at autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] overdrive oil pump question
>Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 10:39:55 -0700
>
>When you get the pump body out take a careful look with a flash light to 
>see if the cam is installed on the input shaft correctly.  It is possible 
>to install the cam on the shaft 180 degrees wrong and the cam will not 
>contact the top of the pump (the wheel).  Don't ask how I know.  If that is 
>the case, the transmission will need to come out to break it apart and 
>reverse the orientation of the cam on the shaft.
>Ron

_________________________________________________________________
Test your celebrity IQ.  Play Red Carpet Reveal and earn great prizes! 
http://club.live.com/red_carpet_reveal.aspx?icid=redcarpet_hotmailtextlink2

From banjojohn at cox.net  Sat Sep 29 21:03:29 2007
From: banjojohn at cox.net (banjojohn at cox.net)
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 23:03:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Cruise control
Message-ID: <20070929230329.U1888.115851.root@eastrmwml12>

Hi Listers   :
I saw a very nice Healey in the street concours at Elkhart Lake this summer that had a cruise control installed.  I was inspired to order an Audiovox universal vacuum cruise control for my BJ8, but have not attempted the installation yet.  I'm sure there are several of you that have installed them on your Healeys.  Has anyone got any information, tips, and especially pictures of how you installed yours?  I'm especially interested in the mounting and placement of the vacuum control unit, and the attachment to the throttle linkage.  
Thanks for any help.
  
John O'Brien
'61 Bugeye
'65 BJ8

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sat Sep 29 23:13:19 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 00:13:19 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] playing detective
References: <004601c80309$277fe020$5201a8c0@Jim>
Message-ID: <004b01c80320$9f335f40$6401a8c0@toshibauser>

If the valve were returning slowly wouldn't you get worse running pressure?, 
I believe you recorded zero compression on a compression test and 60 PSI 
with the car running.  Have you tried the old oil test, a little motor oil 
in cylinder one, if compression goes up appreciably you know it is 
piston/cylinder related, if not should be valves.  I don't know which, but 
that easy test should help. http://www.dansmc.com/compression_test.htm link 
to a motorcycle sight, but the principles are pretty universal to all 
motors.

Greg Lemon
54 Bn1

Greg Lemon
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>
To: "healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2007 9:25 PM
Subject: [Healeys] playing detective


> with all the responses suspecting the valve train, i have began to wonder.
> with nothing obvious could it be possible that with new valves and guides, 
> the
> valve is hanging up and not closing fast enough.  the valve came out 
> easily
> and moved easily in the guide when we took the springs off, but is it 
> possible
> for it to return too slowly and allow compression to escape.  i know that 
> it
> was moving up and down but had no idea of how quickly it returned to full
> close.  could this be possible or do the springs have too much tension for
> this to happen.  healeymanjim
> _______________________________________________
> glemon at neb.rr.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

From britishcars at shaw.ca  Sat Sep 29 23:58:45 2007
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2007 22:58:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] playing detective
In-Reply-To: <004601c80309$277fe020$5201a8c0@Jim>
Message-ID: <000001c80326$f651b690$0e02a8c0@ecarecenters.net>

If you did have "valve float", it would be at higher rpm and it sounds like
your issue is through the rpm range.

Stock springs have about 90 lbs of pressure in the valve closed position.
This should be sufficient for even a higher lift cam or high ratio
rockers...I don't think it would be the springs unless they have
significantly less force than this.

I use 95lb springs with a 1.6 ratio rocker and high lift cam and don't have
any issues...even at 6000 rpm.

I still think that you should do a leak down test......this will tell you if
the valves are the cause and, if so, if it is exhaust or intake....it will
give you some direction to look.



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+britishcars=shaw.ca at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+britishcars=shaw.ca at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
James Shope
Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2007 7:25 PM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] playing detective

with all the responses suspecting the valve train, i have began to wonder.
with nothing obvious could it be possible that with new valves and guides,
the
valve is hanging up and not closing fast enough.  the valve came out easily
and moved easily in the guide when we took the springs off, but is it
possible
for it to return too slowly and allow compression to escape.  i know that it
was moving up and down but had no idea of how quickly it returned to full
close.  could this be possible or do the springs have too much tension for
this to happen.  healeymanjim
_______________________________________________
britishcars at shaw.ca 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From alanb at nfahc.co.uk  Sun Sep 30 01:53:15 2007
From: alanb at nfahc.co.uk (Alan)
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 08:53:15 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] playing detective
In-Reply-To: <000001c80326$f651b690$0e02a8c0@ecarecenters.net>
References: <004601c80309$277fe020$5201a8c0@Jim>
	<000001c80326$f651b690$0e02a8c0@ecarecenters.net>
Message-ID: <000901c80336$f678ac40$6401a8c0@Dell>

Hey James.
A leak down test doesn't have to be fancy. Break open a spark plug and weld,
braze or even epoxy a piece of tube into the metal body. Put a hose and clip
on the tube to connect the plug to an air source. Very low pressure
(especially if you used glue!)will be more than enough. Your ears will tell
you how the compression is getting out. Zero pressure is a lot of leak.
 _______________________________________________
(______________  Alan Bromfield  _______________)
   (______     \____1957-BN4 ___/    _______)
          (_________________________)
            http://www.nfahc.co.uk
        http://www.healey-weekend.com 


<big snip>

I still think that you should do a leak down test......this will tell you if
the valves are the cause and, if so, if it is exhaust or intake....it will
give you some direction to look.

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Sun Sep 30 03:05:40 2007
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 19:05:40 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Cars in Films
Message-ID: <003001c80341$1399e730$4101a8c0@ibm45xm8v45fmw>

G'day

 

I seem to recall someone knowing a database where it's possible to find a
car that has been featured in a film.

 

I am looking for the small French car that Audrey Hepburn (sigh!) drove in
"How to Steal a Million". Peter O'Toole drove a primrose E-type in the film.

 

Many thanks

 

Patrick Quinn

Sydney, Australia

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Sep 30 05:04:49 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 19:04:49 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Cars in Films
In-Reply-To: <003001c80341$1399e730$4101a8c0@ibm45xm8v45fmw>
References: <003001c80341$1399e730$4101a8c0@ibm45xm8v45fmw>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709300404k53281912t95446570303a8d55@mail.gmail.com>

It must be tha Autobianchi?

http://www.imcdb.org/movie.php?id=60522

Cheers!!

Alan

On 9/30/07, Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:
> G'day
>
>
>
> I seem to recall someone knowing a database where it's possible to find a
> car that has been featured in a film.
>
>
>
> I am looking for the small French car that Audrey Hepburn (sigh!) drove in
> "How to Steal a Million". Peter O'Toole drove a primrose E-type in the film.
>
>
>
> Many thanks
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Sydney, Australia
> _______________________________________________

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Sep 30 05:11:30 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 19:11:30 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] French, Wine & Healeys
Message-ID: <ff59076c0709300411j2c103b2dja5f567d6034039a7@mail.gmail.com>

I thought you'd all like to know that I saw a very nice piece on TV
about the famous Smith Haut Lafite winery in France.  The current
owner of the vineyard was nice enough to give the reporter a complete
tour of the vinyard in his pristine BRG BN2 LeMans (w/ black
interior).

I might suggest if any of you are ever in the area with your Healey,
to stop by and perhaps even stay at the bed and breakfast - I'm sure
there'd be some complimentary wine it for you!!!

Cheers,

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From amalin at mac.com  Sun Sep 30 05:42:22 2007
From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin)
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 07:42:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Cruise control
In-Reply-To: <20070929230329.U1888.115851.root@eastrmwml12>
References: <20070929230329.U1888.115851.root@eastrmwml12>
Message-ID: <C53669F8-FAB6-4096-B1DA-9074A1E0A9D7@mac.com>

I took these photos at Conclave 2007 because I plan to put one in  
mine too.  I saw some Healeys with the control switches in the  
ashtray --- close the ashtray lid and it was concealed, very neat.

Clicking on an individual photo will show it in high resolution.

http://tricarb.com/gallery/conclave2007/IMG_4477

http://tricarb.com/gallery/conclave2007/IMG_4478

http://tricarb.com/gallery/conclave2007/IMG_4479

Al Malin
Tricarb

On Sep 29, 2007, at 11:03 PM, banjojohn at cox.net wrote:

> Hi Listers   :
> I saw a very nice Healey in the street concours at Elkhart Lake  
> this summer that had a cruise control installed.  I was inspired to  
> order an Audiovox universal vacuum cruise control for my BJ8, but  
> have not attempted the installation yet.  I'm sure there are  
> several of you that have installed them on your Healeys.  Has  
> anyone got any information, tips, and especially pictures of how  
> you installed yours?  I'm especially interested in the mounting and  
> placement of the vacuum control unit, and the attachment to the  
> throttle linkage.
> Thanks for any help.
>
> John O'Brien
> '61 Bugeye
> '65 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> amalin at mac.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Sun Sep 30 06:11:33 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 08:11:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] French, Wine & Healeys
Message-ID: <380-220079030121133859@earthlink.net>

Wish I had know that when I was over there in my Healey in 01.  We did tour
several French winery's, but not his. 


> [Original Message]
> From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> To: Healey <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 9/30/2007 7:11:53 AM
> Subject: [Healeys] French, Wine & Healeys
>
> I thought you'd all like to know that I saw a very nice piece on TV
> about the famous Smith Haut Lafite winery in France.  The current
> owner of the vineyard was nice enough to give the reporter a complete
> tour of the vinyard in his pristine BRG BN2 LeMans (w/ black
> interior).
>
> I might suggest if any of you are ever in the area with your Healey,
> to stop by and perhaps even stay at the bed and breakfast - I'm sure
> there'd be some complimentary wine it for you!!!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From autofarm at cyg.net  Sun Sep 30 06:12:30 2007
From: autofarm at cyg.net (Bob Yule)
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 08:12:30 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] HBN7L 605
References: <002401c80244$61cc4db0$f030eb42@FRED><BAY108-W12F98C48D009452DABD98EC0AC0@phx.gbl>
	<001701c80311$2382a130$f030eb42@FRED>
Message-ID: <005701c8035b$2da82280$6400a8c0@OFFICE>

    Must be old home week for these cars. We currently have H-BN7-L447 in 
our shop.  It was built 25 March 1959 and shipped to L.A. It was bought out 
of El Paso a year ago after being in dry storage for almost 40 years.  It is 
quite original, with only 14000 miles showing, and no reason to suspect that 
it is not correct.  It still has the Dunlop Roadspeeds on it and the spare 
has never been used.  It has several carryovers from the 100/6, like pointed 
reflector covers, choke under dash, no 3000 script on trunk lid and 100/6 
badge on grill.  The panel fit is great, there is no rust and the interior 
is just nicely patinated (sic).  We are going through the mechanicals and 
putting it back into service as is.  It is a real pleasure and novelty to 
put a screwdriver in a screw and put a wrench on a nut and have them undo 
without heat or penetrating oil.
Cheers.......Bob
Check out our web site www.autofarm.net 

From ahbn6 at optonline.net  Sun Sep 30 06:59:34 2007
From: ahbn6 at optonline.net (John Sims)
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 08:59:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Cars in Films
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0709300404k53281912t95446570303a8d55@mail.gmail.com>
References: <003001c80341$1399e730$4101a8c0@ibm45xm8v45fmw>
	<ff59076c0709300404k53281912t95446570303a8d55@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002401c80361$c095c150$6500a8c0@simsoffice>

OR, you can search on:

http://www.imcdb.org/vehicles.php?make=austin+Healey&model=

to see all Healeys in film

John Sims, BN6 (Go bears!)
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com
 

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Alan Seigrist
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 7:05 AM
To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn
Cc: Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cars in Films

It must be tha Autobianchi?

http://www.imcdb.org/movie.php?id=60522

Cheers!!

Alan

On 9/30/07, Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:
> G'day
>
>
>
> I seem to recall someone knowing a database where it's possible to find a
> car that has been featured in a film.

From jarowe at westnet.com.au  Sun Sep 30 07:01:56 2007
From: jarowe at westnet.com.au (John Rowe)
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 21:01:56 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] HBN7L 605
References: <002401c80244$61cc4db0$f030eb42@FRED><BAY108-W12F98C48D009452DABD98EC0AC0@phx.gbl><001701c80311$2382a130$f030eb42@FRED>
	<005701c8035b$2da82280$6400a8c0@OFFICE>
Message-ID: <004101c80362$14809ab0$0200a8c0@DadP4>

I have H-BT7-L112 sitting in my garage having restored it in 2000 after 
sitting for nearly 40 years in an Arizona junk yard. The licence tag showed 
1961. It had obviously been used in competition. The tyres were very large 
(6.95x15) and the O/D gearbox had been replaced with a non O/D gearbox.
It was built from 11 - 19 March 1959 and despatched on 13 April to USA.

It is now used for competition again and competes in Historic Racing and 
Tarmac Rallies  eg Targa Tasmania and Classic Adelaide. 
http://www.classicadelaide.com.au/ca07/index.asp

They're great cars.

cheers from west oz

John Rowe






Subject: Re: [Healeys] HBN7L 605


>    Must be old home week for these cars. We currently have H-BN7-L447 in
> our shop.  It was built 25 March 1959 and shipped to L.A. It was bought 
> out
> of El Paso a year ago after being in dry storage for almost 40 years.  It 
> is
> quite original, with only 14000 miles showing, and no reason to suspect 
> that
> it is not correct.  It still has the Dunlop Roadspeeds on it and the spare
> has never been used.  It has several carryovers from the 100/6, like 
> pointed
> reflector covers, choke under dash, no 3000 script on trunk lid and 100/6
> badge on grill.  The panel fit is great, there is no rust and the interior
> is just nicely patinated (sic).  We are going through the mechanicals and
> putting it back into service as is.  It is a real pleasure and novelty to
> put a screwdriver in a screw and put a wrench on a nut and have them undo
> without heat or penetrating oil.
> Cheers.......Bob
> Check out our web site www.autofarm.net
> _______________________________________________
> jarowe at westnet.com.au
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.33/1037 - Release Date: 
> 29/09/2007 1:32 PM

From Ian.Harrison at csiro.au  Sun Sep 30 07:28:36 2007
From: Ian.Harrison at csiro.au (Ian.Harrison at csiro.au)
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 23:28:36 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Steering Lever (RH) reqired >BN4-BJ8
Message-ID: <61AC1961F16C34479BB4E8223059D3BA3A0A5E@exvic4-gex.nexus.csiro.au>

Would anyone in Oz or over the pond have a spare RH steering lever that
I could purchase



Many thanks



Ian

BN4

From dwhite4949 at wowway.com  Sun Sep 30 07:56:24 2007
From: dwhite4949 at wowway.com (Daniel and Diane White)
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 09:56:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Padded dash top
Message-ID: <46FFAB08.7000409@wowway.com>

Listers,
I'm at the point where I have to decide if I should build and cover my 
padded dash top (scuttle top liner) from scratch or purchase and install 
the one offered by Moss which fits the BN4, BN6, BN7, BT7.  Has anyone 
seen/purchased/installed the item from Moss?  If so, what is your 
opinion re the quality, fit, closeness to original appearance ?
Thanks, Dan
'62 BN7

From m.brouillette at comcast.net  Sun Sep 30 08:34:44 2007
From: m.brouillette at comcast.net (m.brouillette at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 14:34:44 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Who knows what this would fit?
Message-ID: <093020071434.5409.46FFB4040007280E0000152122064246130A9B9B0A0404079A019D0DD203@comcast.net>

Folks,

           This is more a MG question, but figured with all the British experience on this list, I figured someone would be able to help me.

            I bought a Les Leston steering wheel from a guy who had it on his MGTD and decided to go back to stock.  I have since installed the wheel on my Healey but would like to recoup some of the expense by selling the Boss/Hub it came with.

           My question is, does anyone know what cars it would fit?  I was told it should fit a MGTD, MGTF and MGA.  Is this right and are there other cars it may fit?


Mike B
59 Bt7

From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net  Sun Sep 30 09:00:52 2007
From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ronald J. Ray)
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 10:00:52 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Padded dash top
In-Reply-To: <46FFAB08.7000409@wowway.com>
Message-ID: <EKEAINGPLPLMGCBCJIDKCECDCOAA.ronald-ray@sbcglobal.net>

Dan,

I bought a new padded dash from AH Spares for my 1960 BT7 and it fit
perfect.
It did lack the piping on the ends though.

Ron


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+ronald-ray=sbcglobal.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ronald-ray=sbcglobal.net at autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Daniel and Diane White
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 8:56 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Padded dash top


Listers,
I'm at the point where I have to decide if I should build and cover my
padded dash top (scuttle top liner) from scratch or purchase and install
the one offered by Moss which fits the BN4, BN6, BN7, BT7.  Has anyone
seen/purchased/installed the item from Moss?  If so, what is your
opinion re the quality, fit, closeness to original appearance ?
Thanks, Dan
'62 BN7

From david at bighealey.ltd.uk  Sun Sep 30 10:05:48 2007
From: david at bighealey.ltd.uk (David Ward)
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 17:05:48 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Steering Lever (RH) reqired >BN4-BJ8
References: <61AC1961F16C34479BB4E8223059D3BA3A0A5E@exvic4-gex.nexus.csiro.au>
Message-ID: <002901c8037b$c5a38d70$cfb60f56@bighealey>

Hello Ian,
as we were clearing out last week we found roughly twenty pairs, also some 
odd one too.
If you don't manage to get fixed up contact me off list.
Regards.
David.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Ian.Harrison at csiro.au>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 2:28 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Steering Lever (RH) reqired >BN4-BJ8


> Would anyone in Oz or over the pond have a spare RH steering lever that
> I could purchase
>
>
>
> Many thanks
>
>
>
> Ian
>
> BN4

From dracmarine at aol.com  Sun Sep 30 11:22:57 2007
From: dracmarine at aol.com (dracmarine at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 13:22:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] HBN7L 605
In-Reply-To: <005701c8035b$2da82280$6400a8c0@OFFICE>
References: <002401c80244$61cc4db0$f030eb42@FRED><BAY108-W12F98C48D009452DABD98EC0AC0@phx.gbl>
	<001701c80311$2382a130$f030eb42@FRED>
	<005701c8035b$2da82280$6400a8c0@OFFICE>
Message-ID: <8C9D19DADC4B7ED-EEC-656F@FWM-M07.sysops.aol.com>

Is there a BN7 Register?? I wrote about mine last night but I guess the webmeister killed it as too lengthy



Richard of KY/CA

HBN7 L 440


-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Yule <autofarm at cyg.net>
To: John Snyder <helyjohn at cablespeed.com>; richard mayor <mayorrichard at hotmail.com>
Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 5:12 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HBN7L 605




    Must be old home week for these cars. We currently have H-BN7-L447 in 
our shop.  It was built 25 March 1959 and shipped to L.A. It was bought out 
of El Paso a year ago after being in dry storage for almost 40 years.  It is 
quite original, with only 14000 miles showing, and no reason to suspect that 
it is not correct.  It still has the Dunlop Roadspeeds on it and the spare 
has never been used.  It has several carryovers from the 100/6, like pointed 
reflector covers, choke under dash, no 3000 script on trunk lid and 100/6 
badge on grill.  The panel fit is great, there is no rust and the interior 
is just nicely patinated (sic).  We are going through the mechanicals and 
putting it back into service as is.  It is a real pleasure and novelty to 
put a screwdriver in a screw and put a wrench on a nut and have them undo 
without heat or penetrating oil.
Cheers.......Bob
Check out our web site www.autofarm.net 
_______________________________________________
dracmarine at aol.com 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From healeyray at yahoo.com  Sun Sep 30 11:52:40 2007
From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal)
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 10:52:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Wally Parks
Message-ID: <729395.91677.qm@web55202.mail.re4.yahoo.com>

    Did anyone see the obituary for Wally Parks, founder of the N.H.R.A., in the L.A. Times on Saturday?  The photo shows Wally seated in a car with"Hot Rod Magazine" on the front fender at the Pikes Peak hill climb.  Ray Brock and A.K. Miller are in the photo behind the car.  No date is given for the picture.  
    It sure looks like a 100-S to me but the photo is cropped tight and news paper quality printing so it is hard to be sure.  Did Wally run a Healey at Pikes Peak?  Anybody out there know more?
Ray Juncal

       
---------------------------------
Need a vacation? Get great deals to amazing places on Yahoo! Travel. 

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sun Sep 30 12:04:17 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 11:04:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] HBN7L 605
In-Reply-To: <8C9D19DADC4B7ED-EEC-656F@FWM-M07.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKCECEDGAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>

Hi, Richard -
There is an AHCA register for each model of Healey.  The listing is at
http://www.healeyclub.org/registries.htm

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
dracmarine at aol.com
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 10:23 AM
To: autofarm at cyg.net; helyjohn at cablespeed.com; mayorrichard at hotmail.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HBN7L 605


Is there a BN7 Register?? I wrote about mine last night but I guess the
webmeister killed it as too lengthy



Richard of KY/CA

HBN7 L 440

From kentmclean at comcast.net  Sun Sep 30 12:31:22 2007
From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent)
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 14:31:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Wally Parks
In-Reply-To: <mailman.19.1191175203.21414.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.19.1191175203.21414.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1191177082.5721.3.camel@tosh>

Ray Juncal wrote:
>     Did anyone see the obituary for Wally Parks, founder of the N.H.R.A., in the L.A. Times on Saturday?  The photo shows Wally seated in a car with"Hot Rod Magazine" on the front fender at the Pikes Peak hill climb.  Ray Brock and A.K. Miller are in the photo behind the car.  No date is given for the picture.  
>     It sure looks like a 100-S to me but the photo is cropped tight and news paper quality printing so it is hard to be sure.  Did Wally run a Healey at Pikes Peak?  Anybody out there know more?


I didn't see it, but Googling found this:
http://www.sun-sentinel.com/entertainment/sfl-2005obits.gallery,0,6544746.photogallery?index=10

If it was Ak in the driver's seat, then it's Ak's hot rod.

-- 
Kent
'56 100 BN2

From Gbouff1 at aol.com  Sun Sep 30 12:50:51 2007
From: Gbouff1 at aol.com (Gbouff1 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 14:50:51 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] 50/60s American iron, pictures and music site
Message-ID: <bd4.19313605.34314a0b@aol.com>

Mostly hot rod and American iron, but still a very nice compilation  of  
pictures and music from the 50/60s car era.
 
_http://thefiftiesandsixties.com/CarsWeDrove.htm_ 
(http://thefiftiesandsixties.com/CarsWeDrove.htm) 
 
 
Enjoy!
 
Gary Bouffard



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From coll44 at msn.com  Sun Sep 30 14:47:25 2007
From: coll44 at msn.com (TERRY COLL)
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 16:47:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting
Message-ID: <BLU111-DAV1001906365027D6376FB2CC9AC0@phx.gbl>

A Healey blue 3000 yesterday around 3:30 pm headed south on RT 13 at the MD/DE
border.  Anyone on this list?

Terry Coll  '64 BJ8

----- Original Message -----
From: BJ8Healeys
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 2:04 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HBN7L 605

Hi, Richard -
There is an AHCA register for each model of Healey.  The listing is at
http://www.healeyclub.org/registries.htm

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
dracmarine at aol.com
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 10:23 AM
To: autofarm at cyg.net; helyjohn at cablespeed.com; mayorrichard at hotmail.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HBN7L 605


Is there a BN7 Register?? I wrote about mine last night but I guess the
webmeister killed it as too lengthy



Richard of KY/CA

HBN7 L 440
_______________________________________________
coll44 at msn.com

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From Subscribe at ClassicMGMagazine.com  Sun Sep 30 16:00:04 2007
From: Subscribe at ClassicMGMagazine.com (Classic MG)
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 18:00:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Cruise control
References: <20070929230329.U1888.115851.root@eastrmwml12>
Message-ID: <002101c803ad$42ebbbf0$6601a8c0@LUNNEY1>

October 2002 issue of Healey Marque has a three-page article on installing 
cruise control with photos.

Beth Lunney, Publisher (704) 948-1745
Classic MG Magazine
8702 Taybrook Dr
Huntersville, NC 28078
(704) 948-1746
www.ClassicMGMagazine.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <banjojohn at cox.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2007 11:03 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Cruise control


> Hi Listers   :
> I saw a very nice Healey in the street concours at Elkhart Lake this 
> summer that had a cruise control installed.  I was inspired to order an 
> Audiovox universal vacuum cruise control for my BJ8, but have not 
> attempted the installation yet.  I'm sure there are several of you that 
> have installed them on your Healeys.  Has anyone got any information, 
> tips, and especially pictures of how you installed yours?  I'm especially 
> interested in the mounting and placement of the vacuum control unit, and 
> the attachment to the throttle linkage.
> Thanks for any help.
>
> John O'Brien
> '61 Bugeye
> '65 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> subscribe at classicmgmagazine.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From grain at auracom.com  Sun Sep 30 16:00:50 2007
From: grain at auracom.com (Rick Swain and Wendy Grant)
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 19:00:50 -0300
Subject: [Healeys] BN4 Measurements
Message-ID: <68D3794F-7330-406D-8624-1BECE600651F@auracom.com>

Thanks to all who offered to take measurements for me. However, Geoff  
Muttart, a lister within 100 miles of me, has informed me of a BT7  
undergoing surgery near his home that is at the rolling chassis  
stage. I'm going to be able to make all the observations and take all  
the measurements I need. Then I'll only have me to blame.

Thanks again for the offers

Rick Swain
'59 BN4

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Sun Sep 30 19:11:50 2007
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 21:11:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive pump question
Message-ID: <BAY108-F225448C8F2B64A7CD742F2C8AD0@phx.gbl>

I'd like to thank everyone who answered my questions about my non 
functioning OD.  My mechanic came over today and we checked out everything 
while it is installed in the car.  The pump shaft is not moving so we have 
to take it all out and go into the unit.  I have decided to enjoy the fall 
driving season and wait until this winter to take out the tranny/ OD.  I'm 
sure we will have it all ready by the spring.

Thanks again,

George
'65 bj8

_________________________________________________________________
Test your celebrity IQ.  Play Red Carpet Reveal and earn great prizes! 
http://club.live.com/red_carpet_reveal.aspx?icid=redcarpet_hotmailtextlink2

From healeyray at yahoo.com  Sun Sep 30 22:46:54 2007
From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal)
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 21:46:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Wally Parks
Message-ID: <633741.98268.qm@web55212.mail.re4.yahoo.com>

Kent wrote

I didn't see it, but Googling found this:
http://www.sun-sentinel.com/entertainment/sfl-2005obits.gallery,0,6544746.photogallery?index=10

If it was Ak in the driver's seat, then it's Ak's hot rod.

-- 
Kent
'56 100 BN2

Kent
  Thats the picture.  It is Miller in the cockpit and Parks
 standing behind the car.  The Times got the caption wrong 
and I was looking at the car and didn't recognize Wally 
standing behind the car.  So is the car a Healey or not?
Ray
_______________________________________________


       
---------------------------------
Need a vacation? Get great deals to amazing places on Yahoo! Travel. 

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Sun Sep 30 23:47:16 2007
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 15:47:16 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Cars in Films
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0709300404k53281912t95446570303a8d55@mail.gmail.com>
References: <003001c80341$1399e730$4101a8c0@ibm45xm8v45fmw>
	<ff59076c0709300404k53281912t95446570303a8d55@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001301c803ee$8a62f520$4101a8c0@ibm45xm8v45fmw>

G'day

Many thanks to everyone who replied.

Audrey Hepburn (Sigh!) was driving an Autobianchi in the film "How to Steal
a Million".

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

On 9/30/07, Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:
> G'day
>
>
>
> I seem to recall someone knowing a database where it's possible to find a
> car that has been featured in a film.
>
>
>
> I am looking for the small French car that Audrey Hepburn (sigh!) drove in
> "How to Steal a Million". Peter O'Toole drove a primrose E-type in the
film.
>
>
>
> Many thanks
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Sydney, Australia
> _______________________________________________