From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Oct  1 04:55:37 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 18:55:37 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Wally Parks
In-Reply-To: <633741.98268.qm@web55212.mail.re4.yahoo.com>
References: <633741.98268.qm@web55212.mail.re4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0710010355q10b1adcchd43aa8e3dbb0fa6b@mail.gmail.com>

It has squared off wheel wells and no swage line. Doubt it.

On 10/1/07, Ray Juncal <healeyray at yahoo.com> wrote:
> Kent wrote
>
> I didn't see it, but Googling found this:
> http://www.sun-sentinel.com/entertainment/sfl-2005obits.gallery,0,6544746.photogallery?index=10
>
> If it was Ak in the driver's seat, then it's Ak's hot rod.
>
> --
> Kent
> '56 100 BN2
>
> Kent
>  Thats the picture.  It is Miller in the cockpit and Parks
>  standing behind the car.  The Times got the caption wrong
> and I was looking at the car and didn't recognize Wally
> standing behind the car.  So is the car a Healey or not?
> Ray
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Need a vacation? Get great deals to amazing places on Yahoo! Travel.
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Oct  1 04:59:39 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 18:59:39 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Padded dash top
In-Reply-To: <46FFAB08.7000409@wowway.com>
References: <46FFAB08.7000409@wowway.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0710010359j37f76005r328fb5d840d264b9@mail.gmail.com>

Dan -

You don't want to make your own dash.  You have to have properly cut
and steam-curve the plywood.  It's a huge pain in the arse for
something you can buy new and fits well.  I'm pretty sure the Moss
ones fit well.  If not sure, try Bob at Autofarm... he has good
fitting wood.

Cheers,

Alan

On 9/30/07, Daniel and Diane White <dwhite4949 at wowway.com> wrote:
> Listers,
> I'm at the point where I have to decide if I should build and cover my
> padded dash top (scuttle top liner) from scratch or purchase and install
> the one offered by Moss which fits the BN4, BN6, BN7, BT7.  Has anyone
> seen/purchased/installed the item from Moss?  If so, what is your
> opinion re the quality, fit, closeness to original appearance ?
> Thanks, Dan
> '62 BN7

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Mon Oct  1 05:18:50 2007
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 07:18:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake cable adjuster Not really Healey
In-Reply-To: <001301c803ee$8a62f520$4101a8c0@ibm45xm8v45fmw>
Message-ID: <20071001112007.A211D1879EA@autox.team.net>

I have a need for some park cable adjusters, probably several hundred. 
These are the things that one used to fit to an emergency brake cable and by
tightening the nut on a hook they would effectively shorten a cable.
I haven't seen them for sale for some time...anyone know where I can buy
them?

Michael Salter
100S (1955)
3000 Mk111(1965)
100 (1953)
AHX12 (1953)
Bugeye (1961)
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/

From gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com  Mon Oct  1 06:33:14 2007
From: gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com (Greg Wilkinson)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 05:33:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Padded dash top
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0710010359j37f76005r328fb5d840d264b9@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <GKEDJBJNDHLPKFGMKCEAAEJADCAA.gregwilkinson@roadrunner.com>

Hi Alan,
I guess if you wanted to steam the plywood you could go that route, but 1/8"
plywood doesn't really need it. It will conform to the piece of wood that
has the half round foam padding attached to it. The hard part of making the
dashpad is the compound curve of that wood piece. It curves down and back to
the rear of the car as it gets closer to the doors. You could steam that
piece but I just cut it out of a large plank of wood with a saber saw. Heck
of a lot cheaper than the $240 Moss quotes for the BJ8 dash and kind of a
fun project if that's your thing. I designed LED courtesy lights into mine.

Cheers,
Greg

-----Original Message-----

Dan -

You don't want to make your own dash.  You have to have properly cut
and steam-curve the plywood.  It's a huge pain in the arse for
something you can buy new and fits well.  I'm pretty sure the Moss
ones fit well.  If not sure, try Bob at Autofarm... he has good
fitting wood.

Cheers,

Alan

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Mon Oct  1 08:38:40 2007
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 07:38:40 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake cable adjuster Not really Healey
In-Reply-To: <20071001112007.A211D1879EA@autox.team.net>
References: <001301c803ee$8a62f520$4101a8c0@ibm45xm8v45fmw>
	<20071001112007.A211D1879EA@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10710010738g71d62e93u5f97cca7a866a284@mail.gmail.com>

A couple of hundred?  Man that cable must really be loose.
Go to a parts house and look at the Doorman catalog (sometimes their stuff
is labeled Help).  I think you will find them listed there.
I looked on line, but my Google-fu is weak this morning and I can't find a
website.

Good luck,
Rick

On 10/1/07, Michael Salter <msalter at precisionsportscar.com> wrote:
>
> I have a need for some park cable adjusters, probably several hundred.
> These are the things that one used to fit to an emergency brake cable and
> by
> tightening the nut on a hook they would effectively shorten a cable.
> I haven't seen them for sale for some time...anyone know where I can buy
> them?
>
> Michael Salter
> 100S (1955)
> 3000 Mk111(1965)
> 100 (1953)
> AHX12 (1953)
> Bugeye (1961)
> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/
> _______________________________________________
> richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From Kendall.Freese at aerojet.com  Mon Oct  1 09:00:17 2007
From: Kendall.Freese at aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 08:00:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Ak's racer
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0710010355q10b1adcchd43aa8e3dbb0fa6b@mail.gmail.com>
References: <633741.98268.qm@web55212.mail.re4.yahoo.com>
	<ff59076c0710010355q10b1adcchd43aa8e3dbb0fa6b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1B3BD9CCDD89084C9CC405C3258017F501ED400E@SACMAIL1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

It does not look like an S. The bonnet latches are wrong and the cowl
shape doesn't look right. Ak did have a Devin bodied car that he used
for Pikes Peak with an Olds V8 among other engines, but this looks a bit
high for a Devin also. The son of my old panel beater found the Ak's
Devin about 15 years ago. Another car in a barn story. I think it had a
solid front axle.
Ken Freese
100S Registrar

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Oct  1 09:23:05 2007
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 08:23:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Cars in Films
In-Reply-To: <003001c80341$1399e730$4101a8c0@ibm45xm8v45fmw>
References: <003001c80341$1399e730$4101a8c0@ibm45xm8v45fmw>
Message-ID: <F0B9F921-5BD4-45B5-BAA6-48D94B889E4B@sbcglobal.net>

Check this site out  it should help out in the search

http://www.imcdb.org




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.



On Sep 30, 2007, at 2:05 AM, Patrick and Caroline Quinn wrote:

> G'day
>
>
>
> I seem to recall someone knowing a database where it's possible to  
> find a
> car that has been featured in a film.
>
>
>
> I am looking for the small French car that Audrey Hepburn (sigh!)  
> drove in
> "How to Steal a Million". Peter O'Toole drove a primrose E-type in  
> the film.
>
>
>
> Many thanks
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Sydney, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Oct  1 10:09:11 2007
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 09:09:11 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Padded dash top
In-Reply-To: <GKEDJBJNDHLPKFGMKCEAAEJADCAA.gregwilkinson@roadrunner.com>
References: <GKEDJBJNDHLPKFGMKCEAAEJADCAA.gregwilkinson@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <4A2F96EE-C868-4CE5-946A-7D47FC5697AC@sbcglobal.net>

The bow for the dash pad as well as the wood panel we have available  
seperatly if you would like to cover your own panel.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Oct 1, 2007, at 5:33 AM, Greg Wilkinson wrote:

> Hi Alan,
> I guess if you wanted to steam the plywood you could go that route,  
> but 1/8"
> plywood doesn't really need it. It will conform to the piece of  
> wood that
> has the half round foam padding attached to it. The hard part of  
> making the
> dashpad is the compound curve of that wood piece. It curves down  
> and back to
> the rear of the car as it gets closer to the doors. You could steam  
> that
> piece but I just cut it out of a large plank of wood with a saber  
> saw. Heck
> of a lot cheaper than the $240 Moss quotes for the BJ8 dash and  
> kind of a
> fun project if that's your thing. I designed LED courtesy lights  
> into mine.
>
> Cheers,
> Greg
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Dan -
>
> You don't want to make your own dash.  You have to have properly cut
> and steam-curve the plywood.  It's a huge pain in the arse for
> something you can buy new and fits well.  I'm pretty sure the Moss
> ones fit well.  If not sure, try Bob at Autofarm... he has good
> fitting wood.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
> _______________________________________________
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From dwhite4949 at wowway.com  Mon Oct  1 10:14:55 2007
From: dwhite4949 at wowway.com (Daniel and Diane White)
Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2007 12:14:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Air deflector color
Message-ID: <47011CFF.7030400@wowway.com>

A question please...
What color was the air deflector (located in front of the radiator)  
originally painted?  Body color or chassis black?
Thanks, Dan
'62 BN7

From fortee9er at yahoo.com  Mon Oct  1 10:57:33 2007
From: fortee9er at yahoo.com (Jorge Garcia)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 09:57:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Velocity stacks on a BJ8
Message-ID: <484420.94042.qm@web54504.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I installed a pair of 2" fully radiused velocity
stacks on my BJ8 and now I am looking for something to
act as a filter. The outside diameter on these
velocity stacks are 3.5" and the biggest snap on
filter screens made for Weber carbs are 3". Even if
they had them in the right size I don't know how they
would be fastened to the stacks. I found "foam socks"
(UniFilter) to slip over the velocity stack as a
filter. Has anyone used these foam socks what brand
any suggestions???
Thanks
Jorge Garcia


       
____________________________________________________________________________________
Building a website is a piece of cake. Yahoo! Small Business gives you all the tools to get online.
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/webhosting 

From dan at warner-associates.com  Mon Oct  1 12:50:04 2007
From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 13:50:04 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Air deflector color
In-Reply-To: <47011CFF.7030400@wowway.com>
Message-ID: <002b01c8045b$e13597a0$3500000a@warner.com>

Per concours guide P 76 these were painted black (gloss or satin accepted).
The X brace behind the grill was to be hand painted flat black unless you
had a black car.
Regards,
Dan

 

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Daniel and Diane White
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 11:15 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Air deflector color

A question please...
What color was the air deflector (located in front of the radiator)  
originally painted?  Body color or chassis black?
Thanks, Dan
'62 BN7
_______________________________________________
dan at warner-associates.com 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From bj867 at yahoo.com  Mon Oct  1 14:46:06 2007
From: bj867 at yahoo.com (tammy neumann)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 13:46:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Looking for a manufacturers part number for front hub
 grease seals
Message-ID: <271698.27901.qm@web34704.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I would like to purchase replacement grease seals for
the front hubs on a BJ8 before taking anything apart
to grease the wheel bearings.  Does anybody have a
manufacturers part number available so I could
purchase these from a local bearing distributor ahead
of time?


       
____________________________________________________________________________________
Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your pocket: mail, news, photos & more. 
http://mobile.yahoo.com/go?refer=1GNXIC

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Mon Oct  1 15:12:29 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 14:12:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Looking for a manufacturers part number for front hub
 grease seals
Message-ID: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKGECHDGAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>

Hi, Mark -
Here are all of the numbers that were on the front wheel bearing oil seals I
installed in my BJ8.  Maybe it will help as a cross reference.

NAK  SC  2.062  2.875  0.375

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
tammy neumann
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 1:46 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Looking for a manufacturers part number for front hub
grease seals


I would like to purchase replacement grease seals for
the front hubs on a BJ8 before taking anything apart
to grease the wheel bearings.  Does anybody have a
manufacturers part number available so I could
purchase these from a local bearing distributor ahead
of time?



____________________________________________________________________________
________
Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your pocket: mail,
news, photos & more.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/go?refer=1GNXIC
_______________________________________________
sbyers at ec.rr.com

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.33/1036 - Release Date: 9/28/2007
3:40 PM

From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au  Mon Oct  1 18:03:38 2007
From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 10:03:38 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Ak's racer
In-Reply-To: <1B3BD9CCDD89084C9CC405C3258017F501ED400E@SACMAIL1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
References: <633741.98268.qm@web55212.mail.re4.yahoo.com><ff59076c0710010355q10b1adcchd43aa8e3dbb0fa6b@mail.gmail.com>
	<1B3BD9CCDD89084C9CC405C3258017F501ED400E@SACMAIL1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
Message-ID: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C70169EBB3@itfexch5.central.det.win>

G'day Ken

It's certainly isn't a 100S as it's LHD.

Ak Miller drove an Oldsmobile powered Devin bodied special in the LA
Times GP but it was just one of a few Devin bodied cars he built. All
featured Chev or Olds engines, Ford IFS and solid rear axle with a
tubular chassis.

I would have liked to have met him. Contemporary reports of his exploits
during the Panamericana races make fascinating reading.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+patrick.quinn=det.nsw.edu.au at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+patrick.quinn=det.nsw.edu.au at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Freese, Ken
Sent: Tuesday, 2 October 2007 1:00 AM
To: Alan Seigrist; Ray Juncal
Cc: List Healey
Subject: [Healeys] Ak's racer

It does not look like an S. The bonnet latches are wrong and the cowl
shape doesn't look right. Ak did have a Devin bodied car that he used
for Pikes Peak with an Olds V8 among other engines, but this looks a bit
high for a Devin also. The son of my old panel beater found the Ak's
Devin about 15 years ago. Another car in a barn story. I think it had a
solid front axle.
Ken Freese
100S Registrar
_______________________________________________
patrick.quinn at det.nsw.edu.au

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Oct  1 18:13:50 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 08:13:50 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Brake cable adjuster Not really Healey
In-Reply-To: <20071001112007.A211D1879EA@autox.team.net>
References: <001301c803ee$8a62f520$4101a8c0@ibm45xm8v45fmw>
	<20071001112007.A211D1879EA@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0710011713h1e774791sb214fe6d1bcc18a6@mail.gmail.com>

Michael -

Try a boat supplier, esp. one that specialises in sailing boats.
These types of adjustors are used all over a sail boat, and architects
use these for stairway bannisters as well.

Alan


- Original message -
I have a need for some park cable adjusters, proba.

On 10/1/07, Michael Salter <msalter at precisionsportscar.com> wrote:
> I have a need for some park cable adjusters, probably several hundred.
> These are the things that one used to fit to an emergency brake cable and by
> tightening the nut on a hook they would effectively shorten a cable.
> I haven't seen them for sale for some time...anyone know where I can buy
> them?
>
> Michael Salter
> 100S (1955)
> 3000 Mk111(1965)
> 100 (1953)
> AHX12 (1953)
> Bugeye (1961)
> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Mon Oct  1 19:33:49 2007
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 01:33:49 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Velocity stacks on a BJ8
In-Reply-To: <484420.94042.qm@web54504.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <484420.94042.qm@web54504.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BAY108-W7BE4C15CF21FD0CEFFD71C0AE0@phx.gbl>

Hello Jorge:  This might not be the best thing for everyday driving, but I
have seen at least one racer use pieces of pantyhose wrapped around the stacks
as a filter. He told me he regularly sprayed WD40 on the material to help
"filter" the air.  Cheers, Richard Mayor


> Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 09:57:33 -0700> From: fortee9er at yahoo.com> To:
healeys at autox.team.net> Subject: [Healeys] Velocity stacks on a BJ8> > I
installed a pair of 2" fully radiused velocity> stacks on my BJ8 and now I am
looking for something to> act as a filter. The outside diameter on these>
velocity stacks are 3.5" and the biggest snap on> filter screens made for
Weber carbs are 3". Even if> they had them in the right size I don't know how
they> would be fastened to the stacks. I found "foam socks"> (UniFilter) to
slip over the velocity stack as a> filter. Has anyone used these foam socks
what brand> any suggestions???> Thanks> Jorge Garcia> > > >
_____________________________________________________________________________
_______> Building a website is a piece of cake. Yahoo! Small Business gives
you all the tools to get online.> http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/webhosting >
_______________________________________________> mayorrichard at hotmail.com > >
Healeys at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
_________________________________________________________________
Discover the new Windows Vista
http://search.msn.com/results.aspx?q=windows+vista&mkt=en-US&form=QBRE

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Oct  1 19:52:32 2007
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2007 18:52:32 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake cable adjuster Not really Healey
In-Reply-To: <20071001112007.A211D1879EA@autox.team.net>
References: <20071001112007.A211D1879EA@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4701A460.8090204@comcast.net>

Michael,

Found something close:

http://controls.tuthill.com/Support/eLibrary/PDFs/Linkages/Clevises_Inch_Industrial/Clevises_brochure_SAE%20rev.1-5.pdf


bs



Michael Salter wrote:
> I have a need for some park cable adjusters, probably several hundred. 
> These are the things that one used to fit to an emergency brake cable and by
> tightening the nut on a hook they would effectively shorten a cable.
> I haven't seen them for sale for some time...anyone know where I can buy
> them?
>
> Michael Salter
>
>   
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Mon Oct  1 20:34:22 2007
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 22:34:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake cable adjuster Not really Healey
In-Reply-To: <4701A460.8090204@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20071002023541.D73F71879F6@autox.team.net>

Thanks to all who pointed me in the right direction..
The part I am looking for is on page 2
http://www.newark-auto.com/PerfectParts/undercar.pdf


Michael Salter
100S (1955)
3000 Mk111(1965)
100 (1953)
AHX12 (1953)
Bugeye (1961)
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] 
Sent: October 1, 2007 9:53 PM
To: Michael Salter
Cc: 'Healeys'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake cable adjuster Not really Healey

Michael,

Found something close:

http://controls.tuthill.com/Support/eLibrary/PDFs/Linkages/Clevises_Inch_Ind
ustrial/Clevises_brochure_SAE%20rev.1-5.pdf


bs



Michael Salter wrote:
> I have a need for some park cable adjusters, probably several hundred. 
> These are the things that one used to fit to an emergency brake cable and
by
> tightening the nut on a hook they would effectively shorten a cable.
> I haven't seen them for sale for some time...anyone know where I can buy
> them?
>
> Michael Salter

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Mon Oct  1 20:37:44 2007
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2007 22:37:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] removing/installing overdrive bj8
Message-ID: <BAY108-F35148EB298660BF57F447FC8AE0@phx.gbl>

Thanks to all for your overdrive responses.  I have gotten a couple of 
suggestions to remove and replace the overdrive unit alone with the gear box 
remaining in the car.  What would be good methods to accomplish that from 
those of you that have done it.  Especially the fitment of the overdrive to 
the gear box while the gear box is in place on the car.  Tricks of the trade 
so to speak.  I know the set up and alignment can be tough.  I don't have 
any special tools or spare main shafts to use.

Thanks again,

George '65 bj8

_________________________________________________________________
More photos; more messages; more whatever. Windows Live Hotmail - NOW with 
5GB storage. 
http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/?locale=en-us&ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_mini_5G_0907

From bighealey at charter.net  Tue Oct  2 08:07:00 2007
From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 07:07:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Club Members - new website log in
Message-ID: <000001c804fd$83dd6220$1002a8c0@TRACY>

Any AHCUSA members present or past who have not received their user IDs to
log on to the new website healey.org <http://www.healey.org>  should send an
email to subscriptions at healey.org with your current email address and name.



Cheers !!



Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !

President AHCUSA              healey.org <http://www.healey.org>

VP/Events Director GGAHC  www.goldengatehealeys.com

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Oct  2 14:26:03 2007
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 13:26:03 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] removing/installing overdrive bj8
In-Reply-To: <BAY108-F35148EB298660BF57F447FC8AE0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY108-F35148EB298660BF57F447FC8AE0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <EC967BD2-BA8A-4750-803A-1FA9B3214152@sbcglobal.net>

Trying to re install the overdrive with the transmission still in  
place is major pain in the ass.

DO NOT TRY IT. You will regret it.

It will not save you any time at all over removing the transmission  
and doing the repairs on the bench.

If you are after a trick of the trade remove the transmission to  
repair the overdrive. And save the headache.


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Oct 1, 2007, at 7:37 PM, George Haywood wrote:

> Thanks to all for your overdrive responses.  I have gotten a couple of
> suggestions to remove and replace the overdrive unit alone with the  
> gear box
> remaining in the car.  What would be good methods to accomplish  
> that from
> those of you that have done it.  Especially the fitment of the  
> overdrive to
> the gear box while the gear box is in place on the car.  Tricks of  
> the trade
> so to speak.  I know the set up and alignment can be tough.  I  
> don't have
> any special tools or spare main shafts to use.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> George '65 bj8
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> More photos; more messages; more whatever. Windows Live Hotmail -  
> NOW with
> 5GB storage.
> http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/?locale=en- 
> us&ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_mini_5G_0907
> _______________________________________________
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From bighealey at charter.net  Tue Oct  2 17:05:14 2007
From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 16:05:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] removing/installing overdrive bj8
In-Reply-To: <EC967BD2-BA8A-4750-803A-1FA9B3214152@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <20071002190514.C7D26.42149.root@fepweb16>

<grin>

Have a beer Dave.  You deserve it mate.  Beware that if you stand the transmission up once out of the car to fit the OD you risk liberating any particles (rocks, metal etc) that were stuck to the bottom in the muck and are now free to get into the annulus of your sparkling freshly rebuilt OD unit.  IF that happens one can get lodged into the planetary gears / annulus causing a rather exciting OD lock up at speed.  I can attest to this from first hand experience.
 
In my case I was traveling uphill which is probably why the tail stayed behind me rather than causing a spin out.

Moral of the story is CLEAN out the muck from both OD and tranny when repairing either.

<another grin>

Tracy   http://healey.org

---- David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> wrote: 
> Trying to re install the overdrive with the transmission still in  
> place is major pain in the ass.
> 
> DO NOT TRY IT. You will regret it.
> 
> It will not save you any time at all over removing the transmission  
> and doing the repairs on the bench.
> 
> If you are after a trick of the trade remove the transmission to  
> repair the overdrive. And save the headache.
> 
> 
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> Stockton Ca 95205
> 209-948-8767
> 
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
> .
> .
> 
> On Oct 1, 2007, at 7:37 PM, George Haywood wrote:
> 
> > Thanks to all for your overdrive responses.  I have gotten a couple of
> > suggestions to remove and replace the overdrive unit alone with the  
> > gear box
> > remaining in the car.  What would be good methods to accomplish  
> > that from
> > those of you that have done it.  Especially the fitment of the  
> > overdrive to
> > the gear box while the gear box is in place on the car.  Tricks of  
> > the trade
> > so to speak.  I know the set up and alignment can be tough.  I  
> > don't have
> > any special tools or spare main shafts to use.
> >
> > Thanks again,
> >
> > George '65 bj8
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > More photos; more messages; more whatever. Windows Live Hotmail -  
> > NOW with
> > 5GB storage.
> > http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/?locale=en- 
> > us&ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_mini_5G_0907
> > _______________________________________________
> > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> _______________________________________________
> bighealey at charter.net 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Tue Oct  2 17:58:18 2007
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 19:58:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] removing/installing overdrive bj8
In-Reply-To: <EC967BD2-BA8A-4750-803A-1FA9B3214152@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <20071002235939.873BC18763D@autox.team.net>

Hear hear!!!

Michael Salter
100S (1955)
3000 Mk111(1965)
100 (1953)
AHX12 (1953)
Bugeye (1961)
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of David Nock
Sent: October 2, 2007 4:26 PM
To: George Haywood
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] removing/installing overdrive bj8

Trying to re install the overdrive with the transmission still in  
place is major pain in the ass.

DO NOT TRY IT. You will regret it.

It will not save you any time at all over removing the transmission  
and doing the repairs on the bench.

If you are after a trick of the trade remove the transmission to  
repair the overdrive. And save the headache.


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Oct 1, 2007, at 7:37 PM, George Haywood wrote:

> Thanks to all for your overdrive responses.  I have gotten a couple of
> suggestions to remove and replace the overdrive unit alone with the  
> gear box
> remaining in the car.  What would be good methods to accomplish  
> that from
> those of you that have done it.  Especially the fitment of the  
> overdrive to
> the gear box while the gear box is in place on the car.  Tricks of  
> the trade
> so to speak.  I know the set up and alignment can be tough.  I  
> don't have
> any special tools or spare main shafts to use.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> George '65 bj8

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Tue Oct  2 20:43:50 2007
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 19:43:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] removing/installing overdrive bj8
In-Reply-To: <BAY108-F35148EB298660BF57F447FC8AE0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <772031.81523.qm@web83310.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

             DON"T TRY IT >>> NORMAN NOCK 

    TECH TALK by  Norman Nock
  l have been writing technical articles 
for Healey clubs for over 20 years .
After numerous requests , l have
gathered them together, along with
some never before published
articles and had them spiral 
bound in book form
       $ 35.00 + $7.50 in USA


         259 pages

     Updated Annually

     British Car Specialists ( established 1957 )
    2060 N Wilson Way .. Stockton CA 95205
   Phone # (209) 948-8767
  FAX # (209)948-1030


--- George Haywood <haywoodone at hotmail.com> wrote:

From MKIII4ME at aol.com  Tue Oct  2 20:45:21 2007
From: MKIII4ME at aol.com (MKIII4ME at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 22:45:21 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Pre bent brakes lines
Message-ID: <c4a.1e3e438c.34345c41@aol.com>

Does anyone know of a supplier for pre bent brake lines for the 3000?   If 
so, could you please contact John at _johnhealeylane at worldnet.att.net_ 
(mailto:johnhealeylane at worldnet.att.net) .  and tell him their address or phone number.
 
Thanks,
 
Dennis
_Nigel_ (mailto:MKlll4me at aol.com)  BJ8



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From ahbn6 at optonline.net  Tue Oct  2 21:05:37 2007
From: ahbn6 at optonline.net (John Sims)
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2007 23:05:37 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Pre bent brakes lines
In-Reply-To: <c4a.1e3e438c.34345c41@aol.com>
References: <c4a.1e3e438c.34345c41@aol.com>
Message-ID: <001601c8056a$45ee0c40$6500a8c0@simsoffice>

Doug Reid (Mr Finespanner) at mrfinespanner at earthlink.net 301-898-8881

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com
 

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
MKIII4ME at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 10:45 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net; johnhealeylane at worldnet.att.net
Subject: [Healeys] Pre bent brakes lines

Does anyone know of a supplier for pre bent brake lines for the 3000?   If
so, could you please contact John at _johnhealeylane at worldnet.att.net_
(mailto:johnhealeylane at worldnet.att.net) .  and tell him their address or
phone number.

Thanks,

Dennis
_Nigel_ (mailto:MKlll4me at aol.com)  BJ8

From RicPhillips at aol.com  Wed Oct  3 04:53:27 2007
From: RicPhillips at aol.com (RicPhillips at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 06:53:27 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator Cap
Message-ID: <cbb.1b1df99b.3434cea7@aol.com>

Is there any reason why I can't install a 10 or 11 lb radiator cap on my 67 
BJ8?



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Wed Oct  3 05:00:50 2007
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 07:00:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator Cap
In-Reply-To: <cbb.1b1df99b.3434cea7@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20071003110211.A6C9F1879F5@autox.team.net>

Hi Ric,
You may get away with it but you may not. Before trying the new cap use a
cooling system pressure tester and pump the pressure up when the engine is
hot and running to a couple of pounds over the intended cap pressure. Your
most likely area of failure is the water pump; the pump on a 100 certainly
will not take that pressure.

Michael Salter
100S (1955)
3000 Mk111(1965)
100 (1953)
AHX12 (1953)
Bugeye (1961)
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of RicPhillips at aol.com
Sent: October 3, 2007 6:53 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator Cap

Is there any reason why I can't install a 10 or 11 lb radiator cap on my 67 
BJ8?



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
_______________________________________________
msalter at precisionsportscar.com 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Wed Oct  3 05:23:58 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (sbyers at ec.rr.com)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 7:23:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator Cap
Message-ID: <24135050.1323351191410639069.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web19-z02>

Hi, Ric -
When I first bought my BJ8 in 1984 it had a 15 lb cap on it and I didn't realize for a while that that wasn't correct.  I couldn't figure out why my radiator kept developing leaks at the seams.  Once I replaced the cap with the required 7 lb cap, that problem went away.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA


---- RicPhillips at aol.com wrote: 
> Is there any reason why I can't install a 10 or 11 lb radiator cap on my 67 
> BJ8?
> 
> 
> 
> ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> sbyers at ec.rr.com 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From alexmm at roadrunner.com  Wed Oct  3 07:52:18 2007
From: alexmm at roadrunner.com (Alex)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 09:52:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Pre bent brakes lines
References: <c4a.1e3e438c.34345c41@aol.com>
Message-ID: <00c601c805c4$9d685b10$6b02a8c0@atc0f226cd3237>

Hi Dennis:

Bending the lines (I bought my lines from Healey Surgeons) was easy, using a 
handheld bending tool I got from NAPA for a few dollars. Did it slowly but 
surely on my kitchen table.

== Alex in Maine
     "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7
     "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321
     Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8,
     1965 MG Midget
     http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <MKIII4ME at aol.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>; <johnhealeylane at worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 10:45 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Pre bent brakes lines


> Does anyone know of a supplier for pre bent brake lines for the 3000?   If
> so, could you please contact John at _johnhealeylane at worldnet.att.net_
> (mailto:johnhealeylane at worldnet.att.net) .  and tell him their address or 
> phone number.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dennis
> _Nigel_ (mailto:MKlll4me at aol.com)  BJ8

From wericars at aol.com  Wed Oct  3 08:30:00 2007
From: wericars at aol.com (wericars at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2007 10:30:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator Cap
In-Reply-To: <cbb.1b1df99b.3434cea7@aol.com>
References: <cbb.1b1df99b.3434cea7@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8C9D3E103F82823-710-4CBE@mblk-d35.sysops.aol.com>

I was looking at this issue two nights ago.? I think the Anderson/Moment book says the factory went to a 10 pound cap in 66.? I'll double check this tonight, but maybe someone else has the answer.


Bill
Boston area
65 BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: RicPhillips at aol.com
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 6:53 am
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator Cap



Is there any reason why I can't install a 10 or 11 lb radiator cap on my 67 
BJ8?



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
_______________________________________________
wericars at aol.com 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From dan at warner-associates.com  Wed Oct  3 10:54:53 2007
From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 11:54:53 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Pre bent brakes lines
In-Reply-To: <c4a.1e3e438c.34345c41@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000301c805de$1eb62030$3500000a@warner.com>

John:
My understanding is British Car Specialists has these in sets and gas lines.
I would appreciate if there are other suppliers you let me know as well.
Regards,
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of MKIII4ME at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 9:45 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net; johnhealeylane at worldnet.att.net
Subject: [Healeys] Pre bent brakes lines

Does anyone know of a supplier for pre bent brake lines for the 3000?   If 
so, could you please contact John at _johnhealeylane at worldnet.att.net_ 
(mailto:johnhealeylane at worldnet.att.net) .  and tell him their address or
phone number.
 
Thanks,
 
Dennis
_Nigel_ (mailto:MKlll4me at aol.com)  BJ8



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
_______________________________________________
dan at warner-associates.com 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From fortee9er at yahoo.com  Wed Oct  3 11:07:02 2007
From: fortee9er at yahoo.com (Jorge Garcia)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 10:07:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Denis Welch rear disc brake conversion
Message-ID: <364870.70682.qm@web54505.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

If anyone on the list has used the Denis Welch rear
disc brake conversion kit please contact me directly.
Thank You
Jorge Garcia


       
____________________________________________________________________________________
Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search 
that gives answers, not web links. 
http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC

From helyjohn at cablespeed.com  Wed Oct  3 12:20:36 2007
From: helyjohn at cablespeed.com (John Snyder)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 10:20:36 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Pre bent brakes lines
Message-ID: <000c01c805ea$1894f300$f030eb42@FRED>

Hi John,

Contsct Doug Reid (aka Mr Finespanner) at 18G Motorworks. 
mrfinespanner at earthlink.net , 301-898-8881

He moves around some to get rid of spam messages, so the email and phone # 
might be out of date, but you can Google him.  He has done replacement brake 
lines for me several times.  Good quality, fit good.  You can pick which 
lines you want.  He will send you a price sheet.

John Snyder

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <MKIII4ME at aol.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>; <johnhealeylane at worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 6:45 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Pre bent brakes lines


> Does anyone know of a supplier for pre bent brake lines for the 3000?   If
> so, could you please contact John at _johnhealeylane at worldnet.att.net_
> (mailto:johnhealeylane at worldnet.att.net) .  and tell him their address or 
> phone number.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dennis
> _Nigel_ (mailto:MKlll4me at aol.com)  BJ8

From ahbn6 at optonline.net  Wed Oct  3 13:30:16 2007
From: ahbn6 at optonline.net (John Sims)
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2007 15:30:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Pre bent brakes lines
In-Reply-To: <000301c805de$1eb62030$3500000a@warner.com>
References: <c4a.1e3e438c.34345c41@aol.com>
	<000301c805de$1eb62030$3500000a@warner.com>
Message-ID: <003d01c805f3$d4668720$6500a8c0@simsoffice>

There are several suppliers of brake lines that are cut to size including
Moss, Vicky Brits, Healey Surgeons, etc. However, Doug Reid is the only one
(to my knowledge) who sells them pre-bent.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com
 


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dan
Stromquist
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 12:55 PM
To: MKIII4ME at aol.com; Healey List Emails
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pre bent brakes lines

John:
My understanding is British Car Specialists has these in sets and gas lines.
I would appreciate if there are other suppliers you let me know as well.
Regards,
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of MKIII4ME at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 9:45 PM

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Wed Oct  3 13:48:28 2007
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 12:48:28 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Pre bent brakes lines
In-Reply-To: <003d01c805f3$d4668720$6500a8c0@simsoffice>
References: <c4a.1e3e438c.34345c41@aol.com>
	<000301c805de$1eb62030$3500000a@warner.com>
	<003d01c805f3$d4668720$6500a8c0@simsoffice>
Message-ID: <6881A7AC-59CB-42F2-8925-8208DFAC08C1@sbcglobal.net>

We now have pre bent stainless steel brake line kits for all the 6  
cylinder cars.





David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Oct 3, 2007, at 12:30 PM, John Sims wrote:

> There are several suppliers of brake lines that are cut to size  
> including
> Moss, Vicky Brits, Healey Surgeons, etc. However, Doug Reid is the  
> only one
> (to my knowledge) who sells them pre-bent.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> www.healey6.com
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net] On  
> Behalf Of Dan
> Stromquist
> Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 12:55 PM
> To: MKIII4ME at aol.com; Healey List Emails
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pre bent brakes lines
>
> John:
> My understanding is British Car Specialists has these in sets and  
> gas lines.
> I would appreciate if there are other suppliers you let me know as  
> well.
> Regards,
> Dan
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net]  
> On Behalf
> Of MKIII4ME at aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 9:45 PM
> _______________________________________________
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Wed Oct  3 14:47:55 2007
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (Steve B. Gerow)
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2007 13:47:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Ak Miller
Message-ID: <C3294E0A.257F0%steveg@abrazosdata.com>

I had the pleasure of sitting next to Ak Miller for about an hour at a
wedding reception in Whittier, California in the mid-80s.

He was a friend of the bride's family, but was by himself and seemed on the
quiet side. He said overhead cams and other exotic stuff weren't that
important compared to cubic inches. He had some interesting stories about
working with Lance Reventlow on the Scarabs & Scarab GP car.
-- 
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Wed Oct  3 15:20:44 2007
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Leonard  Hartnett)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 14:20:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator Cap
In-Reply-To: <cbb.1b1df99b.3434cea7@aol.com>
References: <cbb.1b1df99b.3434cea7@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C7097FBC9A1C4893A13498B67A04D372@LeonardPC>

Ric:  You are aware, I hope, that a stock Healey radiator cap goes deeper 
into the radiator than the cap you would buy for most other cars.  If it 
isn't long enough, it will never seal no matter what pressure the cap says.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville,  California,  USA
1967 3000 MKIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <RicPhillips at aol.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 3:53 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator Cap


> Is there any reason why I can't install a 10 or 11 lb radiator cap on my 
> 67
> BJ8?
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at 
> http://www.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> thehartnetts at earthlink.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

From Warthodson at aol.com  Wed Oct  3 15:21:59 2007
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 17:21:59 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Pre bent brakes lines
Message-ID: <d57.abb7dba.343561f7@aol.com>

This company also sells pre-bent lines in steel & stainless steel for Healeys.
_http://www.classictube.com/_ (http://www.classictube.com/) 
 
Gary Hodson



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From Warthodson at aol.com  Wed Oct  3 15:45:11 2007
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 17:45:11 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] bellhousing/transmission/overdrive assembly
Message-ID: <d09.1d371359.34356767@aol.com>

There is a "spring plate-bearing" & shim(s) that go between the bellhousing & 
transmission. The purpose is assure there is pressure on the input bearing 
outer race so that does not rotate in the transmission casing. There is a 
similar setup at the rear of the transmission & overdrive. Assuming you have a 
bellhousing, transmission & overdrive that were not original mated together & the 
original shim pack is not available, what is the procedure for determining the 
correct thickness of the spring washer & shim(s) necessary. Is this procedure 
in any of the shop manuals or other Tech. resources?
Gary Hodson



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From fortee9er at yahoo.com  Wed Oct  3 15:58:46 2007
From: fortee9er at yahoo.com (Jorge Garcia)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 14:58:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Hylomar 221-555 substitute
Message-ID: <74056.28913.qm@web54506.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

The instructions included with Moss' spin on oil
filter adapter calls for using Hylomar 221-555. This
type of sealant is not readily available at the ususal
auto parts stores. What is a suitable substitute for a
high pressure environment such as this?
Thanks
Jorge Garcia
BJ8

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Wed Oct  3 16:12:49 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 15:12:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Hylomar 221-555 substitute
In-Reply-To: <74056.28913.qm@web54506.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKEEDDDGAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>

Hi, Jorge -
Permatex Sealant No. 9 does the same thing.  You should be able to get that
at your local Autzone or Advance store.
http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_seal
ants/Permatex_Tack_Seal_Gasket_Sealant.htm

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
Jorge Garcia
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 2:59 PM
To: Austin Healey
Subject: [Healeys] Hylomar 221-555 substitute


The instructions included with Moss' spin on oil
filter adapter calls for using Hylomar 221-555. This
type of sealant is not readily available at the ususal
auto parts stores. What is a suitable substitute for a
high pressure environment such as this?
Thanks
Jorge Garcia
BJ8
_______________________________________________
sbyers at ec.rr.com

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.33/1036 - Release Date: 9/28/2007
3:40 PM

From rthrift at cox.net  Wed Oct  3 16:48:54 2007
From: rthrift at cox.net (RThrift)
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2007 15:48:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] protecting paint, vinyl, leather, chrome
Message-ID: <20071003224748.UWZC23044.fed1rmmtao105.cox.net@fed1rmimpo01.cox.net>

My dad's BT7 is all original, not restored.  This year it seems more 
rust is showing through the paint & chrome.  The vinyl (or whatever) 
on the fascia etc is sunbeaten & dried out.  What are your 
recommendations to protect the original appearance?  Waxes, polish, 
armorall?  Bolt a chunk of zinc to it?   (For chrome polish on e.g. 
boot hinges or reflector trim rings, is there a problem if it 
contacts the paint of the body?)

I'm not going to be showing the car, concours appearance is not at 
all what I'm after, but I do want to protect it for the future.  This 
is in Southern California, it's kept in a reasonably warm garage

Thanks!
Richard Thrift

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Oct  3 16:51:13 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 06:51:13 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Denis Welch rear disc brake conversion
In-Reply-To: <364870.70682.qm@web54505.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <364870.70682.qm@web54505.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0710031551x6b79c63hc717508bb7d521d5@mail.gmail.com>

Jorge -

You should use Cape International's kit,  it is substantially more complete.

Alan



On 10/4/07, Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com> wrote:
> If anyone on the list has used the Denis Welch rear
> disc brake conversion kit please contact me directly.
> Thank You
> Jorge Garcia
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________________
> Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search
> that gives answers, not web links.
> http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From wilko2 at cox.net  Wed Oct  3 16:56:14 2007
From: wilko2 at cox.net (wilko2 at cox.net)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 15:56:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Denis Welch rear disc brake conversion
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0710031551x6b79c63hc717508bb7d521d5@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20071003185614.PCUDO.30856.root@fed1wml17>

One thing I found about the rear disc conversions is that they point to the fact that the rear end is different enough on a disc wheel (bolt-on) car,  that these kits do not fit.

Wilko
San Diego.

---- Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote: 
> Jorge -
> 
> You should use Cape International's kit,  it is substantially more complete.
> 
> Alan
> 
> 
> 
> On 10/4/07, Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com> wrote:
> > If anyone on the list has used the Denis Welch rear
> > disc brake conversion kit please contact me directly.
> > Thank You
> > Jorge Garcia
> >
> >
> >
> > ____________________________________________________________________________________
> > Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search
> > that gives answers, not web links.
> > http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC
> > _______________________________________________
> > healey.nut at gmail.com
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Oct  3 17:18:58 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 07:18:58 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Denis Welch rear disc brake conversion
In-Reply-To: <20071003185614.PCUDO.30856.root@fed1wml17>
References: <ff59076c0710031551x6b79c63hc717508bb7d521d5@mail.gmail.com>
	<20071003185614.PCUDO.30856.root@fed1wml17>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0710031618r768dbc0ds4ebc99243437d3@mail.gmail.com>

Wilko -

The kit I have from cape fits pretty well, and is well balanced with
the front disks....

Alan



On 10/4/07, wilko2 at cox.net <wilko2 at cox.net> wrote:
> One thing I found about the rear disc conversions is that they point to the
> fact that the rear end is different enough on a disc wheel (bolt-on) car,
> that these kits do not fit.
>
> Wilko
> San Diego.
>
> ---- Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:
> > Jorge -
> >
> > You should use Cape International's kit,  it is substantially more
> complete.
> >
> > Alan
> >
> >
> >
> > On 10/4/07, Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com> wrote:
> > > If anyone on the list has used the Denis Welch rear
> > > disc brake conversion kit please contact me directly.
> > > Thank You
> > > Jorge Garcia
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> ____________________________________________________________________________________
> > > Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search
> > > that gives answers, not web links.
> > > http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > healey.nut at gmail.com
> > >
> > > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> > >
>
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au  Wed Oct  3 17:31:24 2007
From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 09:31:24 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Ak Miller
In-Reply-To: <C3294E0A.257F0%steveg@abrazosdata.com>
References: <C3294E0A.257F0%steveg@abrazosdata.com>
Message-ID: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C70169EBE8@itfexch5.central.det.win>

G'day Steve

Too bad you didn't have a tape recorder with you as I would love to hear
what he said.

Sadly the Scarab GP cars were outdated when they were new, however they
were technically interesting. The sports racing cars were very much a
different thing again.

Also technically interesting was when Lance Reventlow was in Australia
in the early 1960s along with one of the front -engined Scarabs. While
everyone looked at the car, many blokes just couldn't keep their eyes
off Mrs Reventlow who in other circles was known as actress Jill St John
(sigh!).

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+patrick.quinn=det.nsw.edu.au at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+patrick.quinn=det.nsw.edu.au at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Steve B. Gerow
Sent: Thursday, 4 October 2007 6:48 AM
To: Healeys Newsgroup
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ak Miller

I had the pleasure of sitting next to Ak Miller for about an hour at a
wedding reception in Whittier, California in the mid-80s.

He was a friend of the bride's family, but was by himself and seemed on
the
quiet side. He said overhead cams and other exotic stuff weren't that
important compared to cubic inches. He had some interesting stories
about
working with Lance Reventlow on the Scarabs & Scarab GP car.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************

From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au  Wed Oct  3 17:42:36 2007
From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 09:42:36 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Fitting lap/sash seat belts.
Message-ID: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C70169EBEA@itfexch5.central.det.win>

G'day



A friend has just bought a set of 3 point lap/sash seat belts for his
100 and isn't quite sure where the belts should be attached to the car.
Remember it's a RHD car but I wouldn't have thought it should make any
difference.



As far as the attachment near the seat bases perhaps the floor or the
driveshaft tunnel on one side and the floor on the other. With suitable
backing plates of course.



However what about the third attachment for the belt so that it can
easily go over the shoulder? Perhaps the wheel arches would be best?



Your thoughts would be appreciated.



Hoo Roo



Patrick Quinn

Sydney, Australia


**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************

From jstmorris at yahoo.com  Wed Oct  3 18:05:01 2007
From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 20:05:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Fitting lap/sash seat belts.
In-Reply-To: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C70169EBEA@itfexch5.central.det.win>
Message-ID: <338096.35159.qm@web30305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello Patrick;  
   
  The Austin Healey Club of Southern Ontario web site contains a bulletin on seat belts in early Sprites, 100-6 and 3000 roadsters  in pdf format.   It was obtained from a series of BMC/BL technical and service bulletins; specifically, from Austin Service Journal 1961-11-16   A437.   It shows the anchor fittings for both the driver and front passenger use.   While not specific for the 100, hopefully it will be of some help to your friend.
   
  I have also attached the same material in an MSWord format.  
   
  http://www.ahcso.com/Tech%20Talk/Seat%20Belts/Seat%20Belt-ASJ.pdf 
   
  --Scott Morris [ '62 3000 MkII BT7-driver; '60 3000 MkI BN7-project]    Simcoe, Ontario,  Canada
  

"Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au> wrote: << G'day
  A friend has just bought a set of 3 point lap/sash seat belts for his 100 and isn't quite sure where the belts should be attached to the car.  Remember it's a RHD car but I wouldn't have thought it should make any difference.  As far as the attachment near the seat bases perhaps the floor or the driveshaft tunnel on one side and the floor on the other. With suitable backing plates of course.  However what about the third attachment for the belt so that it can easily go over the shoulder? Perhaps the wheel arches would be best?  Your thoughts would be appreciated. >>


J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
       
 
              
---------------------------------
    
       
Yahoo!         Canada Toolbar : Search from anywhere on         the web and bookmark your favourite sites. Download it now!          

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a name of Seat Belt-ASJ.doc]

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Oct  3 18:35:43 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 08:35:43 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Denis Welch rear disc brake conversion
In-Reply-To: <20071003193010.0GN7N.31328.root@fed1wml17>
References: <ff59076c0710031618r768dbc0ds4ebc99243437d3@mail.gmail.com>
	<20071003193010.0GN7N.31328.root@fed1wml17>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0710031735p169850a2g9ee021c6e8c29f04@mail.gmail.com>

Oh sorry - mine's a BJ8.  Misunderstood your email.

Alan


On 10/4/07, wilko2 at cox.net <wilko2 at cox.net> wrote:
> You have a bolt on wheel car, and bought a kit that fit?
>
>
>
> ---- Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:
> > Wilko -
> >
> > The kit I have from cape fits pretty well, and is well balanced with
> > the front disks....
> >
> > Alan
> >
> >
> >
> > On 10/4/07, wilko2 at cox.net <wilko2 at cox.net> wrote:
> > > One thing I found about the rear disc conversions is that they point to
> the
> > > fact that the rear end is different enough on a disc wheel (bolt-on)
> car,
> > > that these kits do not fit.
> > >
> > > Wilko
> > > San Diego.
> > >
> > > ---- Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:
> > > > Jorge -
> > > >
> > > > You should use Cape International's kit,  it is substantially more
> > > complete.
> > > >
> > > > Alan
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > On 10/4/07, Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com> wrote:
> > > > > If anyone on the list has used the Denis Welch rear
> > > > > disc brake conversion kit please contact me directly.
> > > > > Thank You
> > > > > Jorge Garcia
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > >
> ____________________________________________________________________________________
> > > > > Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search
> > > > > that gives answers, not web links.
> > > > > http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC
> > > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > > healey.nut at gmail.com
> > > > >
> > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> > > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Alan
> >
> > '52 A90
> > '53 BN1
> > '64 BJ8
>
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Oct  3 18:40:18 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 08:40:18 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Fitting lap/sash seat belts.
In-Reply-To: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C70169EBEA@itfexch5.central.det.win>
References: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C70169EBEA@itfexch5.central.det.win>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0710031740o244c1911u3811a89d9c02470d@mail.gmail.com>

Patrick -

On my BN1 I have them attached to the wheel arch.  I can use the belt
even if the top is stowed away.  Comfort factor is identical to the
factory three point fitting I have on my BJ8.

Alan



On 10/4/07, Quinn, Patrick <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au> wrote:
> G'day
>
>
>
> A friend has just bought a set of 3 point lap/sash seat belts for his
> 100 and isn't quite sure where the belts should be attached to the car.
> Remember it's a RHD car but I wouldn't have thought it should make any
> difference.
>
>
>
> As far as the attachment near the seat bases perhaps the floor or the
> driveshaft tunnel on one side and the floor on the other. With suitable
> backing plates of course.
>
>
>
> However what about the third attachment for the belt so that it can
> easily go over the shoulder? Perhaps the wheel arches would be best?
>
>
>
> Your thoughts would be appreciated.
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Sydney, Australia
>
>
> **********************************************************************
> This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
> privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
> are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
> **********************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From Wilkmanracing at aol.com  Wed Oct  3 20:05:23 2007
From: Wilkmanracing at aol.com (Wilkmanracing at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 22:05:23 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Protecting paint, leather, vinyl, etc
Message-ID: <ca4.1a420c4a.3435a463@aol.com>

I've tried the fancy pants products sold in little bottles and fancy  cans.  
Every one fell short of the products offered by  Meguiar's.  Their stuff can't 
be beat for overall quality and  value. Obviously, nothing can turn back the 
hands of time, but Meguiar's  products can sure spiff up an old car and keep 
it from declining too fast.   Take a look at their web site for product 
recommendations.
 
_http://meguiars.com/_ (http://meguiars.com/) 
 
Bill Wilkman



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au  Wed Oct  3 20:09:50 2007
From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 12:09:50 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Fitting lap/sash seat belts.
In-Reply-To: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C70169EBEA@itfexch5.central.det.win>
References: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C70169EBEA@itfexch5.central.det.win>
Message-ID: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C70169EBFC@itfexch5.central.det.win>

G'day

Many thanks to the many who have taken the trouble to send me
information, photos and copies of BMC documents.

You have been wonderful.

Hoo Roo  and Best Wishes

Patrick Quinn

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+patrick.quinn=det.nsw.edu.au at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+patrick.quinn=det.nsw.edu.au at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Quinn, Patrick
Sent: Thursday, 4 October 2007 9:43 AM
To: Healeys Newsgroup
Subject: [Healeys] Fitting lap/sash seat belts.

G'day



A friend has just bought a set of 3 point lap/sash seat belts for his
100 and isn't quite sure where the belts should be attached to the car.
Remember it's a RHD car but I wouldn't have thought it should make any
difference.



As far as the attachment near the seat bases perhaps the floor or the
driveshaft tunnel on one side and the floor on the other. With suitable
backing plates of course.



However what about the third attachment for the belt so that it can
easily go over the shoulder? Perhaps the wheel arches would be best?



Your thoughts would be appreciated.



Hoo Roo



Patrick Quinn

Sydney, Australia
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************

From bdischer at blakedischer.com  Thu Oct  4 06:01:54 2007
From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 08:01:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] HUGE Donation for ABRR Kid's Charity Run
Message-ID: <020301c8067e$5cf70e40$02fea8c0@bjdtr3a>

Wow...

I'm verklempt!  In this morning's email was a note from a lister wishing to
remain anonymous who will be making a $4,000 donation to the Wisconsin
charity, The Center for Blind and Visually Impaired kids
(http://www.cbvic.org/).  The run's website: http://www.abrr.org.

Thank you, 
thank you, 
thank you!

Blake Discher, Event Organizer
America's British Reliability Run
Ph: 313-259-4460

-----

Part of my "Ain't to Proud to Beg" initial email...

Come Saturday, 25 British cars will begin the fifth annual "America's
British Reliability Run."  This year there will be two groups participating
in two different locations.  One in the Wisconsin run, driving 800 miles in
two days through Wisconsin, Minnesota and Michigan's Upper Peninsula.
Another group will drive the Ohio run, again driving 800 miles in two days
through Ohio, Virginia and Maryland.  In four years the run has raised more
than $110,000 for children's charities!  
 
The charity for the Wisconsin run is the Center for Blind & Visually
Impaired Children. The Center offers a coordinated program of educational
intervention and prescribed therapies to infants and toddlers who are blind
or visually impaired, including those with additional disabilities.
Website: http://www.cbvic.org/.  At the end of this run we'll all park our
cars at the Center for an "It's OK to Touch" car show for the visually
impaired kids!
 
The charity for the Ohio run is Adventures for Wishkids, whose mission is to
enrich the lives of children with life threatening illnesses and their
families by providing year round, fun-filled group activities and
destination events, fostering joy, laughter, normalcy and supportive
networking opportunities. Web: http://www.afwkids.org/.
 
One hundred percent of your donation goes to the charity, teams pay their
own expenses out of pocket. In fact, your donation is made directly to the
charity of your choice. Please help as you can - every little bit counts,
and we welcome contributions large and small!  You can donate by visiting
the secure server site provided by our corporate sponsor, the Little British
Car Company.  Just follow this link:
https://securemg.ipl.co.uk/lbcarco/mibrr.html to donate safely and securely
online.  

Event web site: http://www.abrr.org.  Your contribution is tax deductible.

From Kendall.Freese at aerojet.com  Thu Oct  4 08:23:47 2007
From: Kendall.Freese at aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 07:23:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fitting lap/sash seat belts.
In-Reply-To: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C70169EBFC@itfexch5.central.det.win>
References: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C70169EBEA@itfexch5.central.det.win>
	<3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C70169EBFC@itfexch5.central.det.win>
Message-ID: <1B3BD9CCDD89084C9CC405C3258017F501ED4064@SACMAIL1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

The 100S was factory fitted with lap belts. There were no mounting
anchors welded like on a 3000. In the 100S they drilled two holes in the
vertical bulkhead sheet aluminium (steel on a 100) behind the driver and
close to the floor and on either side of the fuel pumps. Sounds kind of
weak but they used big washers.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

From edwjkeuer at comcast.net  Thu Oct  4 12:44:12 2007
From: edwjkeuer at comcast.net (edwjkeuer at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2007 18:44:12 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Best Source For Parts
Message-ID: <100420071844.27102.4705347C000B607B000069DE22007503309D0A9A0A0506990B0A@comcast.net>

Hello all,

I am the new, very happy owner of a BJ8 and have read (here and there) that the quality of some replacement parts is not good. How do you choose the "best" quality parts, especially when you are new to the AH as I am? A well-known restorer, for example, recently told me that some of the stainless steel exhaust systems sold are of poor quality...therefore worse than the original. I had always thought that a stainless steel exhaust would be the way to go. Oh well.

Where do some of you buy your parts? I appreciate your opinions and help very much indeed.

Dr. K
'66 BJ8

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Thu Oct  4 13:03:37 2007
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2007 15:03:37 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Overriders
Message-ID: <47053909.1060201@comcast.net>

Does anyone know if the current crop of reproduction overriders for 6 
cylinder big Healeys has improved to have the top flat as original?  If 
so, do most of the different vendors have the correct design or only one 
source.
Thanks.
Charlie
'62 BT-7 tricarb

From BlkBt7 at aol.com  Thu Oct  4 13:15:07 2007
From: BlkBt7 at aol.com (Bob Brown)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 14:15:07 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Best Source For Parts
In-Reply-To: <100420071844.27102.4705347C000B607B000069DE22007503309D0A9A0A0506990B0A@comcast.net>
References: <100420071844.27102.4705347C000B607B000069DE22007503309D0A9A0A0506990B0A@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <47053A45.6050804@aol.com>

Ed,

Congratulations on your "new" car.

Some of the usual places to buy from are Moss Motors and Victoria 
British. I prefer Moss. British Car Specialists in California do a good 
job of providing parts, many are Moss from Moss but they also have other 
sources. 2 good ones in the UK are SC Parts and AH Spares.
If you come by Saturday for the Tech Session I can show catalogs from
all those mentioned.
Here are the links to their web sites:
http://www.mossmotors.com/
http://www.victoriabritish.com/
http://www.britishcarspecialists.com/
http://www.scparts.co.uk/
http://www.ahspares.co.uk/

If getting Moss parts I usually use a distributor, they sell for a 
little less that the retail price.
http://www.lbcarco.com/
http://www.justbrits.com/
Bob Brown

edwjkeuer at comcast.net wrote on 10/4/2007, 1:44 PM:

 > Hello all,
 >
 > I am the new, very happy owner of a BJ8 and have read (here and there)
 > that the quality of some replacement parts is not good. How do you
 > choose the "best" quality parts, especially when you are new to the AH
 > as I am? A well-known restorer, for example, recently told me that
 > some of the stainless steel exhaust systems sold are of poor
 > quality...therefore worse than the original. I had always thought that
 > a stainless steel exhaust would be the way to go. Oh well.
 >
 > Where do some of you buy your parts? I appreciate your opinions and
 > help very much indeed.
 >
 > Dr. K
 > '66 BJ8

From geatros at shaw.ca  Thu Oct  4 13:37:20 2007
From: geatros at shaw.ca (geatros)
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2007 12:37:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Parts
Message-ID: <000e01c806bd$fb232830$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>

If you need to buy sheet metal Kilmartin is the place,  down under....

Cheers
Kenny

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Thu Oct  4 14:59:43 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 15:59:43 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] SOS special project
Message-ID: <007601c806c9$7f825460$7e86fd20$@com>

As mentioned earlier, I recently bought 5 Spridgets from the Madison area.
The woman I bought them from, Mary, was widowed about 7 years ago. It was
her husband that was the Sprite racer. but she shared his love for the cars.


 

In fact, besides the 5 cars I bought, she's kept 2. One car, a Bugeye
racecar. her 12 year old son wanted to keep since it had belonged to his
Dad. The other, she kept for herself. It's a MKI Midget that they had their
first date in. The Midget looks to be in very decent, restorable, perhaps
even drivable shape. 

 

As a special project for SOS '07, I've offered to pick up her car in Madison
(or maybe PPP can arrange to get it here?), and we'll see if it turns over.
If so, we'll change the oil, flush the fuel, and see if we can get it
started. We'll also see if we can insure the clutch and brakes are
operational. Hopefully, she can end up with an operational car, or, at
least, properly prepare it for long term storage.

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From dwhite4949 at wowway.com  Thu Oct  4 16:01:09 2007
From: dwhite4949 at wowway.com (Daniel and Diane White)
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2007 18:01:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Re Parts Sources
Message-ID: <470562A5.4030005@wowway.com>

To answer your question as to where to get your parts- British Car 
Specialists is the best without question.  When you place an order you 
talk to someone who is actually a "British car person" (Michael or 
John)  and if you have a "how to" question David will take the time to 
tell you "how to" even though he's probably answered the same question a 
million times before.  Yes, they do sell Moss parts but only the ones 
that fit and work.  No financial interest blah blah just a long time 
customer.
Dan White
'62 BN7 Mk II

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Thu Oct  4 16:03:02 2007
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 15:03:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Overriders
In-Reply-To: <47053909.1060201@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <172962.36915.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Charlie ... We have those overriders you asked about
.... Norman Nock  British Car Specialists . 2060 N
Wilson Way . Stockton. Ca 94205
209-948-8767 FAX 209-948-1030

www.BritishCarSpecialists.com
tech. questions David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
Parts inquiry, Sheila Nock-Huggins
britishcardoc at sbcglobal.net




--- Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie at comcast.net> wrote:

> Does anyone know if the current crop of reproduction
> overriders for 6 
> cylinder big Healeys has improved to have the top
> flat as original?  If 
> so, do most of the different vendors have the
> correct design or only one 
> source.
> Thanks.
> Charlie
> '62 BT-7 tricarb
> _______________________________________________
> sjnnock at sbcglobal.net 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From ahbn6 at optonline.net  Thu Oct  4 16:06:08 2007
From: ahbn6 at optonline.net (John Sims)
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2007 18:06:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Re Parts Sources
In-Reply-To: <470562A5.4030005@wowway.com>
References: <470562A5.4030005@wowway.com>
Message-ID: <00c301c806d2$c51fbef0$6500a8c0@simsoffice>

And, when you are talking to Michael, David or Norman, it would be wise to
buy their Tech Tips book. Small investment for a world of information. No
financial interest, etc.

In the meantime, keep asking this list as you have some of the best Healey
guys active and/or lurking on it.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com
 


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Daniel and Diane White
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 6:01 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Re Parts Sources

To answer your question as to where to get your parts- British Car
Specialists is the best without question.  When you place an order you
talk to someone who is actually a "British car person" (Michael or
John)  and if you have a "how to" question David will take the time to
tell you "how to" even though he's probably answered the same question a
million times before.  Yes, they do sell Moss parts but only the ones
that fit and work.  No financial interest blah blah just a long time
customer.
Dan White
'62 BN7 Mk II

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Thu Oct  4 17:15:40 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 18:15:40 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] SOS '07 powdercoating
Message-ID: <009801c806dc$7d2975a0$777c60e0$@com>

I hooked up to the powder coating oven in the shop. works well. I ordered up
a Horrible Freight powder coating kit. so, if any of youse guys bring some
parts to sandblast, we can try to get them powder coated.

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Thu Oct  4 17:20:08 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 19:20:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Re Parts Sources
Message-ID: <380-22007104423208703@earthlink.net>

Huuuuuuuummmmm----well, best by your opinion:):)  I've dealt with several
that are tops IMO.  But I'd not say they were "the best".

tom  


> [Original Message]
> From: Daniel and Diane White <dwhite4949 at wowway.com>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 10/4/2007 6:01:45 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Re Parts Sources
>
> To answer your question as to where to get your parts- British Car 
> Specialists is the best without question.  When you place an order you 
> talk to someone who is actually a "British car person" (Michael or 
> John)  and if you have a "how to" question David will take the time to 
> tell you "how to" even though he's probably answered the same question a 
> million times before.  Yes, they do sell Moss parts but only the ones 
> that fit and work.  No financial interest blah blah just a long time 
> customer.
> Dan White
> '62 BN7 Mk II
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Oct  4 17:52:39 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 16:52:39 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Best Parts Sources (Part 1)
Message-ID: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKIEDLDGAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>

Hello, Dr. K, and welcome to the world of Healeys!  Congratulations on your
good taste in selecting a BJ8.  I'll be contacting you shortly about the BJ8
registry.
You have already heard from several listers about the best place to buy
parts.  Everyone has his own opinion about cost vs. quality, and who has the
best parts.  This topic comes up periodically on the list.

I would like to address another aspect of the subject that can be as
important as the quality of the parts:  customer service.
How does your parts source treat you after the sale when there is a problem?

Some of you might remember back in the spring when I posted a problem with a
chirp in the right front wheel of my BJ8.  I had replaced both front splined
hub adapters about a year previously, both purchased from Healey Haven in
Catonsville, Maryland, and the chirp had appeared shortly after that.  The
left side was fine.  I discovered by rotating the tire by hand that the
chirp was caused by the rotor binding on the brakes at one point in its
rotation, lifting up the outboard pad and letting it drop as it rotated on
past.  Naturally, I attributed this to a warped rotor.  I removed the rotor
and had it turned in a local shop, but the problem was still there after
reassembly.  After pondering this for a while, I decided to take the car to
the same shop.  They noted the wobble and turned the rotor again.  After
reassembly, there was no effect at all on the wobble.  At this point, I had
them reinstall the old hub USING THE SAME ROTOR AND BEARINGS, and the chirp
immediately disappeared.

[More to follow, due to 3K limit]

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Oct  4 17:54:43 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 16:54:43 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Best Parts Sources (Part 2)
Message-ID: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKOEDLDGAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>

Thus, I finally realized that the problem was really in the new hub and not
in the rotor.  Remember how the shop spent three hours
on my problem and didn't charge ANYTHING because it was a unique experience
for them working on a Healey?

With that information, I reported my experience to Healey Haven and received
the response that they hadn't heard of that problem before.  The most I
could get out of them was they would "try (note the word) to get me another
hub".  I have offered multiple times since April to send back the defective
hub for examination, but they did not even give me the courtesy of a reply.

In response to another inquiry, Healey Haven sent me a copy of an e-mail to
their supplier which indicated that there was at least one other defective
hub with the same complaint sitting on their counter and indicated again
they were "trying to get me a new hub".   To my repeated questions about how
long I should wait for this new hub, did their supplier want to see my bad
hub, etc., I got silence.  It has now been six months since I reported the
problem, and I still can't get a straight answer from Healey Haven about how
long it will take to get a new hub.  As I told them last week, if I didn't
hear from them by last Friday, I was buying from someone else.  No response.
I'm driving
on the old worn-out hub, which I won't do any longer.  I'll be buying a new
hub, but not from the same place, and you can bet I'll push my car before
I'll buy anything else there, either.

Just thought I would take this opportunity to let you know what kind of
customer service you might expect from one of the available suppliers if you
have a problem with one of their parts.  CAVEAT EMPTOR!

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Oct  4 18:04:13 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 08:04:13 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Re Parts Sources
In-Reply-To: <380-22007104423208703@earthlink.net>
References: <380-22007104423208703@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0710041704n129e916apa5e6184149248ad3@mail.gmail.com>

Tom -

I've had my differences with them, as with all healey suppliers,  but
no one offers as many parts, bits and bobs for Healeys.  Rather than
slagging them I'd rather encourage them to do even more.  The fact
that BCS exists is a massive benefit for all Healey owners.  Just get
their hard to find parts catalogue and you'll know what I mean.

Alan


On 10/5/07, Tom Felts <tomfelts at earthlink.net> wrote:
> Huuuuuuuummmmm----well, best by your opinion:):)  I've dealt with several
> that are tops IMO.  But I'd not say they were "the best".
>
> tom
>
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: Daniel and Diane White <dwhite4949 at wowway.com>
> > To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> > Date: 10/4/2007 6:01:45 PM
> > Subject: [Healeys] Re Parts Sources
> >
> > To answer your question as to where to get your parts- British Car
> > Specialists is the best without question.  When you place an order you
> > talk to someone who is actually a "British car person" (Michael or
> > John)  and if you have a "how to" question David will take the time to
> > tell you "how to" even though he's probably answered the same question a
> > million times before.  Yes, they do sell Moss parts but only the ones
> > that fit and work.  No financial interest blah blah just a long time
> > customer.
> > Dan White
> > '62 BN7 Mk II
> > _______________________________________________
> > tomfelts at earthlink.net
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Thu Oct  4 18:37:43 2007
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2007 20:37:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Best Parts Sources (Part 1)
In-Reply-To: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKIEDLDGAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>
References: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKIEDLDGAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>
Message-ID: <47058757.7030904@earthlink.net>

Steve,

I had a similar (the same?) problem - mine was self induced.  I installed 
the studs in the new hubs using a hydraulic press.  I didn't support the 
back side of the hub well enough or I used too much force installing the 
studs.  So the material around the studs deformed creating some high spots 
on the side the rotor mounts to.  So the rotor couldn't sit flat and had a 
bunch of runout.  I had to push the studs out, file the surfaces flat, 
re-install the studs and the rotor.  The manual says up to 0.002" lateral 
runout allowed.


Are you going to be at Eurofest?


Bob





BJ8Healeys wrote:

>  They noted the wobble and turned the rotor again.  After
> reassembly, there was no effect at all on the wobble.  At this point, I had
> them reinstall the old hub USING THE SAME ROTOR AND BEARINGS, and the chirp
> immediately disappeared.
> 
> [More to follow, due to 3K limit]
> _______________________________________________
> rchaskell at earthlink.net 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From MKIII4ME at aol.com  Thu Oct  4 18:48:54 2007
From: MKIII4ME at aol.com (MKIII4ME at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 20:48:54 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Pre bent brake lines
Message-ID: <d59.16123389.3436e3f6@aol.com>

To everyone that replied:  Thanks for all information.  The  Healey List is 
great.
 
Dennis




************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Oct  4 20:11:59 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 19:11:59 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Best Parts Sources (Part 1)
In-Reply-To: <47058757.7030904@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKCEDODGAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>

Hi, Bob -
The rotors on a BJ8 are bolted to the hubs and don't use studs, so pressing
in studs did not cause my problem.  After we both observed the wobble in the
rotor on the car, while I watched the shop guy unbolted the rotor from the
new (defective) hub and reassembled with exactly the same parts -- rotor,
bearings, and bolts -- except that he used my old hub.  After reinstallation
on the car the rotor turned absolutely true and there was no binding with
the brakes or anything else.  My conclusion is that the rotor wobble was
caused by the new hub.  Would anyone else reach a different conclusion?
Even if there was another cause other than the hub, would it be too much to
ask for a supplier either to replace the item immediately or ask to have it
sent in for investigation?

I would like to attend Eurofest, but it would be a 600-mile round trip for
me and there are too many other things going on.  Besides, I'll probably be
busy installing the $356 worth of parts that I just bought from Moss and
didn't buy from Healey Haven!

Happy Healeying!
Steve

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Haskell [mailto:rchaskell at earthlink.net]
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 5:38 PM
To: BJ8Healeys
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Best Parts Sources (Part 1)


Steve,

I had a similar (the same?) problem - mine was self induced.  I installed
the studs in the new hubs using a hydraulic press.  I didn't support the
back side of the hub well enough or I used too much force installing the
studs.  So the material around the studs deformed creating some high spots
on the side the rotor mounts to.  So the rotor couldn't sit flat and had a
bunch of runout.  I had to push the studs out, file the surfaces flat,
re-install the studs and the rotor.  The manual says up to 0.002" lateral
runout allowed.


Are you going to be at Eurofest?


Bob

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Thu Oct  4 20:13:52 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 22:13:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Best Parts Sources (Part 2)
Message-ID: <380-22007105521352640@earthlink.net>

Steve--just make sure the new hub doesn't come from VB.  Talk about
customer service!!----not. 


> [Original Message]
> From: BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Cc: <bighealey at msn.com>
> Date: 10/4/2007 7:54:43 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Best Parts Sources (Part 2)
>
> Thus, I finally realized that the problem was really in the new hub and
not
> in the rotor.  Remember how the shop spent three hours
> on my problem and didn't charge ANYTHING because it was a unique
experience
> for them working on a Healey?
>
> With that information, I reported my experience to Healey Haven and
received
> the response that they hadn't heard of that problem before.  The most I
> could get out of them was they would "try (note the word) to get me
another
> hub".  I have offered multiple times since April to send back the
defective
> hub for examination, but they did not even give me the courtesy of a
reply.
>
> In response to another inquiry, Healey Haven sent me a copy of an e-mail
to
> their supplier which indicated that there was at least one other defective
> hub with the same complaint sitting on their counter and indicated again
> they were "trying to get me a new hub".   To my repeated questions about
how
> long I should wait for this new hub, did their supplier want to see my bad
> hub, etc., I got silence.  It has now been six months since I reported the
> problem, and I still can't get a straight answer from Healey Haven about
how
> long it will take to get a new hub.  As I told them last week, if I didn't
> hear from them by last Friday, I was buying from someone else.  No
response.
> I'm driving
> on the old worn-out hub, which I won't do any longer.  I'll be buying a
new
> hub, but not from the same place, and you can bet I'll push my car before
> I'll buy anything else there, either.
>
> Just thought I would take this opportunity to let you know what kind of
> customer service you might expect from one of the available suppliers if
you
> have a problem with one of their parts.  CAVEAT EMPTOR!
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Thu Oct  4 20:17:33 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 22:17:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Re Parts Sources
Message-ID: <380-22007105521733812@earthlink.net>

Not slagging them at all.  Actually I've never heard anything negative
about them.  I was only taking a little friendly jag at someone saying any
one vendor is "the best". I'd hope we have a bunch of "bests" out there:)

tom    


> [Original Message]
> From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> To: <tomfelts at earthlink.net>; Daniel and Diane White
<dwhite4949 at wowway.com>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 10/4/2007 8:04:14 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Re Parts Sources
>
> Tom -
>
> I've had my differences with them, as with all healey suppliers,  but
> no one offers as many parts, bits and bobs for Healeys.  Rather than
> slagging them I'd rather encourage them to do even more.  The fact
> that BCS exists is a massive benefit for all Healey owners.  Just get
> their hard to find parts catalogue and you'll know what I mean.
>
> Alan
>
>
> On 10/5/07, Tom Felts <tomfelts at earthlink.net> wrote:
> > Huuuuuuuummmmm----well, best by your opinion:):)  I've dealt with
several
> > that are tops IMO.  But I'd not say they were "the best".
> >
> > tom
> >
> >
> > > [Original Message]
> > > From: Daniel and Diane White <dwhite4949 at wowway.com>
> > > To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> > > Date: 10/4/2007 6:01:45 PM
> > > Subject: [Healeys] Re Parts Sources
> > >
> > > To answer your question as to where to get your parts- British Car
> > > Specialists is the best without question.  When you place an order you
> > > talk to someone who is actually a "British car person" (Michael or
> > > John)  and if you have a "how to" question David will take the time to
> > > tell you "how to" even though he's probably answered the same
question a
> > > million times before.  Yes, they do sell Moss parts but only the ones
> > > that fit and work.  No financial interest blah blah just a long time
> > > customer.
> > > Dan White
> > > '62 BN7 Mk II
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > tomfelts at earthlink.net
> > >
> > > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> > _______________________________________________
> > healey.nut at gmail.com
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
>
>
> -- 
> Alan
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Oct  4 20:30:14 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 19:30:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Best Parts Sources (Part 2)
In-Reply-To: <380-22007105521352640@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKIEDPDGAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>

Well, that sort of illustrates my main point, Tom.  In my experience, the
parts you get from Moss and V-B are very similar and about the same cost --
in many cases they might even come from the same manufacturer.  But if you
have a problem, you can get hold of someone at Moss you can talk to and who
knows what you're talking about.  At V-B, they sell parts but if a problem
comes up they have no one to help or advise you.  It's the customer service
after the sale, especially when there is a problem, that makes the
difference for me in who I do business with.  There are too many sources for
the same parts in most cases to have to put up with bad service.

Steve


-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Felts [mailto:tomfelts at earthlink.net]
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 7:14 PM
To: BJ8Healeys; healeys at autox.team.net
Cc: bighealey at msn.com
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Best Parts Sources (Part 2)


Steve--just make sure the new hub doesn't come from VB.  Talk about
customer service!!----not.


> [Original Message]
> From: BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Cc: <bighealey at msn.com>
> Date: 10/4/2007 7:54:43 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Best Parts Sources (Part 2)
>
> Thus, I finally realized that the problem was really in the new hub and
not
> in the rotor.  Remember how the shop spent three hours
> on my problem and didn't charge ANYTHING because it was a unique
experience
> for them working on a Healey?

From alan at andysnet.net  Thu Oct  4 20:52:54 2007
From: alan at andysnet.net (Alan Schultz)
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2007 21:52:54 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Best Parts Sources (Part 2)
In-Reply-To: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKOEDLDGAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>
References: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKOEDLDGAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>
Message-ID: <4705A706.8080200@andysnet.net>

Steve,

That's quite an indictment, but apparently well deserved.

Alan Schultz
67BJ8

BJ8Healeys wrote:
> Thus, I finally realized that the problem was really in the new hub and not
> in the rotor.  Remember how the shop spent three hours
> on my problem and didn't charge ANYTHING because it was a unique experience
> for them working on a Healey?s

From wericars at aol.com  Thu Oct  4 21:11:00 2007
From: wericars at aol.com (wericars at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2007 23:11:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator Cap
In-Reply-To: <8C9D3E103F82823-710-4CBE@mblk-d35.sysops.aol.com>
References: <cbb.1b1df99b.3434cea7@aol.com>
	<8C9D3E103F82823-710-4CBE@mblk-d35.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8C9D5147DBAC131-39C-39D6@FWM-M05.sysops.aol.com>

Page 152 of the Moment Anderson book says the factory went to a 10 lb cap during MK III production.


Bill
Boston area
65 BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: wericars at aol.com
To: RicPhillips at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 10:30 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator Cap



I was looking at this issue two nights ago.? I think the Anderson/Moment book 
says the factory went to a 10 pound cap in 66.? I'll double check this tonight, 
but maybe someone else has the answer.


Bill
Boston area
65 BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: RicPhillips at aol.com
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 6:53 am
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator Cap



Is there any reason why I can't install a 10 or 11 lb radiator cap on my 67 
BJ8?



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
_______________________________________________
wericars at aol.com 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - 
http://mail.aol.com
_______________________________________________
wericars at aol.com 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From wericars at aol.com  Thu Oct  4 21:14:51 2007
From: wericars at aol.com (wericars at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2007 23:14:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Pre bent brakes lines
In-Reply-To: <000301c805de$1eb62030$3500000a@warner.com>
Message-ID: <8C9D5150712CAE5-39C-39F7@FWM-M05.sysops.aol.com>

Classic Tube in New York.? They have them in stainless too.


Bill
Boston area
65 BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: Dan Stromquist <dan at warner-associates.com>
To: MKIII4ME at aol.com; Healey List Emails <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 12:54 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pre bent brakes lines



John:
My understanding is British Car Specialists has these in sets and gas lines.
I would appreciate if there are other suppliers you let me know as well.
Regards,
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of MKIII4ME at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 9:45 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net; johnhealeylane at worldnet.att.net
Subject: [Healeys] Pre bent brakes lines

Does anyone know of a supplier for pre bent brake lines for the 3000?   If 
so, could you please contact John at _johnhealeylane at worldnet.att.net_ 
(mailto:johnhealeylane at worldnet.att.net) .  and tell him their address or
phone number.
 
Thanks,
 
Dennis
_Nigel_ (mailto:MKlll4me at aol.com)  BJ8



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
_______________________________________________
dan at warner-associates.com 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
_______________________________________________
wericars at aol.com 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From edriver at sasktel.net  Thu Oct  4 22:07:00 2007
From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver)
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2007 22:07:00 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator caps
Message-ID: <4705B864.1000104@sasktel.net>

A review of the "SC Parts Group Ltd.: Parts and Accessories BN1-BJ8" catalogue, some
300 pages in length, indicates that early BN1 used a radiator cap of 4 psi while later BN1 and BN2
called for 7 psi radiator cap. They list for BN4 to end of BJ8 a 7 psi cap.  Only one radiator
cap is available  from Cape International for BN4 to BJ8, it is rated at 7 psi.

In a lengthy review of the factory shop manual for 100-six and 3000 from '56 through '67 ;
the Haynes manual for the same model series; and the driver's handbooks for the same
series of models , only the BN4 (100-six) owners handbook mentions psi of the radiator
" a pressure relief valve located in the radiator filler cap, opens at approximately 4 lbs. per sq. 
in."
Therefore, the earlier advice suggesting  that the maximum psi be 7 psi for a radiator cap seems
to me to be most reasonable until someone can produce actual documentation to the
contrary.

Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
'53 BN1 '65 BJ8  '89 Morgan 4/4

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Thu Oct  4 23:53:26 2007
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken))
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 07:53:26 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Best Parts Sources (Part 2)
In-Reply-To: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKOEDLDGAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>
References: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKOEDLDGAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>
Message-ID: <000301c80714$0cb0c1b0$26124510$@com>

Steve, I've made a similar experience with them. Won't buy anything more
there.

Eric


Thus, I finally realized that the problem was really in the new hub and not
in the rotor.  Remember how the shop spent three hours
on my problem and didn't charge ANYTHING because it was a unique experience
for them working on a Healey?

With that information, I reported my experience to Healey Haven and received
the response that they hadn't heard of that problem before.  The most I
could get out of them was they would "try (note the word) to get me another
hub".  I have offered multiple times since April to send back the defective
hub for examination, but they did not even give me the courtesy of a reply.

In response to another inquiry, Healey Haven sent me a copy of an e-mail to
their supplier which indicated that there was at least one other defective
hub with the same complaint sitting on their counter and indicated again
they were "trying to get me a new hub".   To my repeated questions about how
long I should wait for this new hub, did their supplier want to see my bad
hub, etc., I got silence.  It has now been six months since I reported the
problem, and I still can't get a straight answer from Healey Haven about how
long it will take to get a new hub.  As I told them last week, if I didn't
hear from them by last Friday, I was buying from someone else.  No response.
I'm driving
on the old worn-out hub, which I won't do any longer.  I'll be buying a new
hub, but not from the same place, and you can bet I'll push my car before
I'll buy anything else there, either.

Just thought I would take this opportunity to let you know what kind of
customer service you might expect from one of the available suppliers if you
have a problem with one of their parts.  CAVEAT EMPTOR!

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Fri Oct  5 06:12:47 2007
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2007 08:12:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Overriders
In-Reply-To: <172962.36915.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <172962.36915.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <47062A3F.7030404@comcast.net>

I think what I was asking has not been understood.  The original 
overriders had a flat top.  All of the repros I have seen have a totally 
radiused top.  This has been the case for many years.  Does anyone make 
the flat topped ones or are all of the repros curved top?  All of the 
suppliers have overriders, but who has the flat topped ones if they exist?
Thanks.
Charlie

Norman Nock wrote:

>Charlie ... We have those overriders you asked about
>.... Norman Nock  British Car Specialists . 2060 N
>Wilson Way . Stockton. Ca 94205
>209-948-8767 FAX 209-948-1030
>
>www.BritishCarSpecialists.com
>tech. questions David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>Parts inquiry, Sheila Nock-Huggins
>britishcardoc at sbcglobal.net
>
>
>
>
>--- Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>  
>
>>Does anyone know if the current crop of reproduction
>>overriders for 6 
>>cylinder big Healeys has improved to have the top
>>flat as original?  If 
>>so, do most of the different vendors have the
>>correct design or only one 
>>source.
>>Thanks.
>>Charlie
>>'62 BT-7 tricarb
>>_______________________________________________
>>sjnnock at sbcglobal.net 
>>
>>Healeys at autox.team.net
>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From edwjkeuer at comcast.net  Fri Oct  5 06:37:30 2007
From: edwjkeuer at comcast.net (edwjkeuer at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2007 12:37:30 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Wheels
Message-ID: <100520071237.28069.4706300A0002664B00006DA522073000339D0A9A0A0506990B0A@comcast.net>

Hello, 

I've asked this of a few of you already, but wonder what you collectively think about replacing 60 spoke wheels with 72's. I noted modest vibration and shake when driving my (new old) car home this past Sunday at 65-70 mph. 

A restorer (the same "well-known" one) has been very kind in giving me advice, as he's worked on the car 10 years ago and remembers it well. He feels that the 60's are not adequate for the loads generated by the engine and suspension, regardless of their balance, and strongly suggests going with 72's (agree that BWW is the best source?). He feels that corrects 90% of these "shake" issues with Healeys and that mods to the frame, body panels are rarely necessary. 

If all this is true, should I replace the hubs also? BWW told me that worn hubs will ruin new wheels. You have to remove the wheels to check this, right? Or would you just suggest replacing the hubs? Any other issues with this that I should be aware of?

Thanks to you all,
You've been just great, and I so appreciate your experience and willingness to share it -

Edw. J. Keuer
Wheaton, IL

From clocks at midcoast.com  Fri Oct  5 07:16:10 2007
From: clocks at midcoast.com (James Lea)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 09:16:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Friday funny.
Message-ID: <012501c80751$e5a91cf0$0201a8c0@JIM>

  Two blind pilots were both wearing dark glasses. One is using a guide dog 
and the other is tapping his way along the aisle with a cane.


  Nervous laughter spreads through the cabin, but the men enter the cockpit, 
the door closes and the engines start up. The passengers begin glancing 
nervously around, searching for some sign that this is just a little 
practical joke. None is forthcoming.

  The plane moves faster and faster down the runway and the people sitting 
in the window seats realize they're headed straight for the water at the 
edge of the airport. As it begins to look as though the plane will plough 
into the water, panicked screams fill the cabin.

  At that moment, the plane lifts smoothly into the air. The passengers 
relax and laugh a little sheepishly and soon all retreat into their 
magazines, secure in the knowledge that the plane is
  in good hands.


  In the cockpit, one of the blind pilots turns to the other and says, "Ya 
know, Bob, one of these days, they're gonna scream too late and we're all 
gonna die." 

From ampole at hotmail.com  Fri Oct  5 07:27:40 2007
From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 13:27:40 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] rear axle breather
Message-ID: <BLU108-W283F3B4BCEC36A44A1A9A9D5A90@phx.gbl>

Guys
I have just removed the half shafts, diff, bearings, hubs etc from my rear
axle and would like to get it powder coated. The only thing left to remove is
the plastic breather tube, is this screwed or pressed into the axle body?
many thanks Andy
_________________________________________________________________
Feel like a local wherever you go.
http://www.backofmyhand.com

From davzu29 at cox.net  Fri Oct  5 07:33:17 2007
From: davzu29 at cox.net (David Z)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 09:33:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] dating a trans
References: <092520070159.27859.46F86B9C000619AB00006CD32212020784CA070B0B0E0C@comcast.net>
	<BAY104-W288AE3E3A7E7E39EB3E76EC5B70@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <00ad01c80754$4a36ece0$6601a8c0@ORGANIZA79207D>

the subject line of "dating a trans" sound a bit fishy to me......  Maybe 
just because I got this solate.

David Z.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Lesher" <cleona44 at hotmail.com>
To: <caddi5 at comcast.net>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 10:56 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] dating a trans


> Mitch - check the post by Steve Byers over the weekend. about overdrives.
> I believe it notes that the od# 28/1447 should be for the 100-six
> good luck
> jim lesher> From: caddi5 at comcast.net> To: Healeys at autox.team.net> Date: 
> Tue,
> 25 Sep 2007 01:59:56 +0000> Subject: [Healeys] dating a trans> > Hello 
> list,>
> can anyone help me date a trans and overdrive unit? here are the numbers I 
> was
> given...> OD# 28/1447/011036> TRANS# WM 1448 AEO 3174> THANKS Mitch>
> _______________________________________________> cleona44 at hotmail.com > >
> _________________________________________________________________
> Kick back and relax with hot games and cool activities at the Messenger 
> Cafi.
> http://www.cafemessenger.com?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_SeptWLtagline
> _______________________________________________
> davzu29 at cox.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 


-- 
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 93 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Fri Oct  5 08:39:01 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (sbyers at ec.rr.com)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 10:39:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Wheels
Message-ID: <14728913.1403721191595142056.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web01-z02>

Hi, Edward -
I would have to disagree with anyone who claims that the number of spokes has anything to do with "shaking".  If your car is shaking, it's because the wheels and/or tires are out of round and balance.  Even if you purchase new 72 spoke wheels, they are likely to need to be trued and adjusted or you will have the same vibration problem.
I suggest that if your wheels are in reasonably good shape (not severely rusted, no broken or missing spokes), you should have Allen Hendrix at Hendrix Wire Wheel do his magic on them (http://www.hendrixwirewheel.com).  You will be amazed at the difference.  If you need new wheels, Hendrix can supply them.

I have had 60-spoke Dayton chrome wire wheels from BWW on my BJ8 since 1990 and 70,000 miles.  I have never had a broken spoke, and no vibration problems since Hendrix did his thing on them.  I have him check and true the wheel each time I replace a tire, as well as shaving the tire to round.

BWW was about the only game in town when I bought my wheels, but now that Hendrix is available his outstanding customer service is what has kept me coming back to him.  He once sent me a brand new chrome wheel with a new tire mounted and balanced at no charge up front, since I needed it in a hurry and there was no time to send him my wheel.  When I took it back to him, he just put the tire on my wheel and didn't charge anything for the use of his new wheel for a thousand miles.  Quite a contrast with some suppliers, huh?

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA




---- edwjkeuer at comcast.net wrote: 
> Hello, 
> 
> I've asked this of a few of you already, but wonder what you collectively think about replacing 60 spoke wheels with 72's. I noted modest vibration and shake when driving my (new old) car home this past Sunday at 65-70 mph. 
> 
> A restorer (the same "well-known" one) has been very kind in giving me advice, as he's worked on the car 10 years ago and remembers it well. He feels that the 60's are not adequate for the loads generated by the engine and suspension, regardless of their balance, and strongly suggests going with 72's (agree that BWW is the best source?). He feels that corrects 90% of these "shake" issues with Healeys and that mods to the frame, body panels are rarely necessary. 
> 
> If all this is true, should I replace the hubs also? BWW told me that worn hubs will ruin new wheels. You have to remove the wheels to check this, right? Or would you just suggest replacing the hubs? Any other issues with this that I should be aware of?
> 
> Thanks to you all,
> You've been just great, and I so appreciate your experience and willingness to share it -
> 
> Edw. J. Keuer
> Wheaton, IL
> _______________________________________________
> sbyers at ec.rr.com 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From don at anglesey.us  Fri Oct  5 09:14:44 2007
From: don at anglesey.us (Don )
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 09:14:44 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Wheels
In-Reply-To: <100520071237.28069.4706300A0002664B00006DA522073000339D0A9A0A0506990B0A@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <!~!UENERkVCMDkAAQACAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABgAAAAAAAAA0URZJ8mcIE6Bk2YxB8q6GMKAAAAQAAAAEY88ALs4s0K6sgnXe+vkhAEAAAAA@anglesey.us>

If the 60's are not adequate for the loads why would the 48's be used in
stock applications.  I used 48's on my 100-6 for years without any
wobble and they were old as the hills.  I have since upgraded but 60's
are more than adequate for racing as well.  Unless you really want to
spend some $$$$ I would stay with the 60's and have them trued as
another lister suggested and have the drum's/rotors balanced as well.
As for the hubs check to see if they have a sharp edge to them, if both
edges are rounded no need to replace hubs.  
Don
57' BN4 

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+don=anglesey.us at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+don=anglesey.us at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
edwjkeuer at comcast.net
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2007 6:38 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Wheels

Hello, 

I've asked this of a few of you already, but wonder what you
collectively think about replacing 60 spoke wheels with 72's. I noted
modest vibration and shake when driving my (new old) car home this past
Sunday at 65-70 mph. 

A restorer (the same "well-known" one) has been very kind in giving me
advice, as he's worked on the car 10 years ago and remembers it well. He
feels that the 60's are not adequate for the loads generated by the
engine and suspension, regardless of their balance, and strongly
suggests going with 72's (agree that BWW is the best source?). He feels
that corrects 90% of these "shake" issues with Healeys and that mods to
the frame, body panels are rarely necessary. 

If all this is true, should I replace the hubs also? BWW told me that
worn hubs will ruin new wheels. You have to remove the wheels to check
this, right? Or would you just suggest replacing the hubs? Any other
issues with this that I should be aware of?

Thanks to you all,
You've been just great, and I so appreciate your experience and
willingness to share it -

Edw. J. Keuer
Wheaton, IL

From MedLabInc at msn.com  Fri Oct  5 09:24:49 2007
From: MedLabInc at msn.com (Dick Matson)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 08:24:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Wheels
References: <!~!UENERkVCMDkAAQACAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABgAAAAAAAAA0URZJ8mcIE6Bk2YxB8q6GMKAAAAQAAAAEY88ALs4s0K6sgnXe+vkhAEAAAAA@anglesey.us>
Message-ID: <BAY108-DAV531ACB2300D62F694ED30A2A90@phx.gbl>

Hi Don:

     In your reply, what part of the hub should be rounded on both edges - not
sharp ?

DM / Bj8


  From: Don <mailto:don at anglesey.us>
  Sent: Friday, October 05, 2007 8:14 AM
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels


  If the 60's are not adequate for the loads why would the 48's be used in
  stock applications.  I used 48's on my 100-6 for years without any
  wobble and they were old as the hills.  I have since upgraded but 60's
  are more than adequate for racing as well.  Unless you really want to
  spend some $$$$ I would stay with the 60's and have them trued as
  another lister suggested and have the drum's/rotors balanced as well.
  As for the hubs check to see if they have a sharp edge to them, if both
  edges are rounded no need to replace hubs.
  Don
  57' BN4



  -----Original Message-----
  Sent: Friday, October 05, 2007 6:38 AM
  Subject: [Healeys] Wheels

  Hello,

  I've asked this of a few of you already, but wonder what you
  collectively think about replacing 60 spoke wheels with 72's. I noted
  modest vibration and shake when driving my (new old) car home this past
  Sunday at 65-70 mph.

From dcorning at comcast.net  Fri Oct  5 09:32:41 2007
From: dcorning at comcast.net (Dan Corning)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 10:32:41 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Leaf Spring Recommendation
Message-ID: <000301c80764$f9900b30$6501a8c0@DCC>

Hello,

I'm in the process of deciding to re-use the original leaf springs on my BT7
(clean, rebuild and possibly have them re-arched) or just purchase another
set.  I'd like to hear any past experience you may have with both rebuilding
the original springs or the best/worst quality suppliers of replacement
springs.

Thanks,

Dan Corning

From jcapezzuti at aol.com  Fri Oct  5 09:47:19 2007
From: jcapezzuti at aol.com (jcapezzuti at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2007 11:47:19 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Leaf Spring Recommendation
In-Reply-To: <000301c80764$f9900b30$6501a8c0@DCC>
References: <000301c80764$f9900b30$6501a8c0@DCC>
Message-ID: <8C9D57E2589CF75-E6C-30DE@webmail-dd04.sysops.aol.com>

Dan,



Order new ones!? Call Jule Enterprises - Ontario, Canada.? (905) 854-3555? - Ask for Marty.

They make PERFECT Leaf Springs by request.? I ordered some for my BJ7 after I ordered some from Moss that I didn't really care for.? 


Good Luck!


Jeff
'63 BJ7


-----Original Message-----
From: Dan Corning <dcorning at comcast.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 11:32 am
Subject: [Healeys] Leaf Spring Recommendation




Hello,

I'm in the process of deciding to re-use the original leaf springs on my BT7
(clean, rebuild and possibly have them re-arched) or just purchase another
set.  I'd like to hear any past experience you may have with both rebuilding
the original springs or the best/worst quality suppliers of replacement
springs.

Thanks,

Dan Corning
_______________________________________________
jcapezzuti at aol.com 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Oct  5 09:49:36 2007
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2007 15:49:36 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Wheels
Message-ID: <100520071549.10175.47065D10000BE1BA000027BF220076219404040A0B079F9C0D@comcast.net>

I think (not 100% sure) 60-spoke painted wheels were stock
on BJ8s (chrome was an option).   When I bought my BJ8, 
it had them, and I kept breaking spokes (lots of nice curvy 
roads around here).

Also, I believe all but the last of the Big Healeys came with
bias ply tires.   Put new, sticky radials on and you're putting
much greater side loads on the spokes.  

I agree that 72-spoke wheels don't necessarily solve scuttle
shake, but that issue has been addressed in the archives.


bs

--
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Don " <don at anglesey.us>
> If the 60's are not adequate for the loads why would the 48's be used in
> stock applications.  I used 48's on my 100-6 for years without any
> wobble and they were old as the hills.  I have since upgraded but 60's
> are more than adequate for racing as well.  Unless you really want to
> spend some $$$$ I would stay with the 60's and have them trued as
> another lister suggested and have the drum's/rotors balanced as well.
> As for the hubs check to see if they have a sharp edge to them, if both
> edges are rounded no need to replace hubs.  
> Don
> 57' BN4 

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Oct  5 10:07:13 2007
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2007 16:07:13 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Wheels
Message-ID: <100520071607.5954.470661310005CC2D00001742220076219404040A0B079F9C0D@comcast.net>

The tops of the hub splines should be flat, not rounded.  From the
side, the profile of the spline is an isosceles trapezoid.

The hubs are (probably) cut round on a lathe, then the splines are
cut perpendicular.  If you look at new hub splines with a magnifying 
glass, you can see the machine marks from the lathe on the top.

If the splines are "sharp;" i.e. there is no flat surface on the top,
the hub is shot (wheel or adapter).  Unless the (adapter) hubs 
are almost new, it's a good idea to replace the hubs when you 
get new wheels. If the hub splines are worn, this allows the 
wheel to "ratchet,"  causing premature wear and (potentially) much 
grief.

Wire wheels are a PITA, but, boy, do they look good ;)


bs


--
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Dick Matson" <MedLabInc at msn.com>
> Hi Don:
> 
>      In your reply, what part of the hub should be rounded on both edges - not
> sharp ?
> 
> DM / Bj8

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Fri Oct  5 10:42:32 2007
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 09:42:32 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Wheels
References: <100520071237.28069.4706300A0002664B00006DA522073000339D0A9A0A0506990B0A@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <004201c8076e$ba80f670$6501a8c0@XPS400>

I recently put new Dayton 60 spoke wheels on my 61 BN7 and I have no 
problems with vibration or shake at those speeds.  I think, from reading 
this list for many years that most shake can be corrected by balancing the 
brake drums and making sure the wheels are true and balanced.  If you are 
not racing the car I think modern 60 spoke wheels are strong enough and 
personally, I like the look of the 60 spoke wheels better.  Less clutter. 
Just my 2 cents.
Ron
: [Healeys] Wheels


> Hello,
>
> I've asked this of a few of you already, but wonder what you collectively 
> think about replacing 60 spoke wheels with 72's. I noted modest vibration 
> and shake when driving my (new old) car home this past Sunday at 65-70 
> mph.

From pdeturck at rochester.rr.com  Fri Oct  5 11:09:28 2007
From: pdeturck at rochester.rr.com (pdeturck at rochester.rr.com)
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2007 13:09:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Wheels
In-Reply-To: <BAY108-DAV531ACB2300D62F694ED30A2A90@phx.gbl>
References: <!~!UENERkVCMDkAAQACAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABgAAAAAAAAA0URZJ8mcIE6Bk2YxB8q6GMKAAAAQAAAAEY88ALs4s0K6sgnXe+vkhAEAAAAA@anglesey.us>
	<BAY108-DAV531ACB2300D62F694ED30A2A90@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <c56eade470d42.70d42c56eade4@nyroc.rr.com>

Dick -
>From the Hendrix WW web site:
http://www.hendrixwirewheel.com/ThingsToDo.jpg

BTW -  I too am a satisfied customer of Hendrix and
run 60 spoke wheels with tires balanced and shaved from 
Hendrix. What a huge difference from my old wheels and tires
especially the elimination of shake at higher speeds.
-pd-
'66 BJ8

----- Original Message -----
From: Dick Matson <MedLabInc at msn.com>
Date: Friday, October 5, 2007 11:25 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels
To: AustinHealey List <healeys at autox.team.net>

> Hi Don:
> 
>     In your reply, what part of the hub should be rounded on both 
> edges - not sharp ?
> 
> DM / Bj8
> 
>
> 
>  -----Original Message-----
>  Sent: Friday, October 05, 2007 6:38 AM
>  Subject: [Healeys] Wheels
> 
>  Hello,
> 
>  I've asked this of a few of you already, but wonder what you
>  collectively think about replacing 60 spoke wheels with 72's. I 
> noted  modest vibration and shake when driving my (new old) car 
> home this past
>  Sunday at 65-70 mph.

From 63ahbj7 at gmail.com  Fri Oct  5 11:24:46 2007
From: 63ahbj7 at gmail.com (63AHBJ7)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 12:24:46 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Wheels
References: <100520071237.28069.4706300A0002664B00006DA522073000339D0A9A0A0506990B0A@comcast.net>
	<004201c8076e$ba80f670$6501a8c0@XPS400>
Message-ID: <0d9801c80774$a0cd29a0$6601a8c0@actualshop>

20+ years ago I put a set of the infamous "india" 60 chromes on my Hortense.
Didn't take too long (first L.D. and with SCARED wife-to-be<G>) for spokes to
start letting go.  The return trip from Encounter/Conclave across the PA &
Ohio Turnpikes sealed their fate!!  RR had 12 gone which was max.

Still being the adventurous type, put her up on 4 stands and tossed all 5
tyres/wheels in my '80 Camino and took off for Dayton, Ohio.  Made the SERIOUS
mistake of stopping (overnite) in Indy and called some folks.  That stop over
cost more than gas for the whole trip!! LOL

Nice folks at Dayton checked them out while I waited and said all where fine
for re-lacing but would be about a week.  Did I want to p/u when done and pay
sales tax or have them shipped (no tax) for about $20 for the 5.

Never went back to Dayton<VBG>!!

And they have been on her ever since with approx'ly 80,000 miles.

Ed

From don at anglesey.us  Fri Oct  5 12:37:03 2007
From: don at anglesey.us (Don )
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 12:37:03 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Wheels
In-Reply-To: <BAY108-DAV531ACB2300D62F694ED30A2A90@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <!~!UENERkVCMDkAAQACAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABgAAAAAAAAA0URZJ8mcIE6Bk2YxB8q6GMKAAAAQAAAA3XIQ4UpE+EC1YqL/33I+oQEAAAAA@anglesey.us>

Where the wheel is placed on the hub.
  
Bob describes it better I just didn't get my magnifying glass out to
look at them.
 
"The tops of the hub splines should be flat, not rounded.  From the
side, the profile of the spline is an isosceles trapezoid.

"The hubs are (probably) cut round on a lathe, then the splines are
cut perpendicular.  If you look at new hub splines with a magnifying 
glass, you can see the machine marks from the lathe on the top.

If the splines are "sharp;" i.e. there is no flat surface on the top,
the hub is shot (wheel or adapter)."

Enjoy,
Don

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+don=anglesey.us at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+don=anglesey.us at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Dick Matson
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2007 9:25 AM
To: AustinHealey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels

Hi Don:

     In your reply, what part of the hub should be rounded on both edges
- not
sharp ?

DM / Bj8

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Fri Oct  5 13:04:08 2007
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2007 15:04:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] British Marque Car Club News
Message-ID: <47068AA8.60703@comcast.net>

There is a nice article by the list's own Jim Smith in the current issue 
of the above periodical.  The picture he used is 11 years old, but he's 
aged well and looked about the same at this year's PVGP.  That is also 
the subject of his article.
Charlie

From caws52803 at aol.com  Fri Oct  5 13:09:33 2007
From: caws52803 at aol.com (caws52803 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2007 15:09:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] British Marque Car Club News
In-Reply-To: <47068AA8.60703@comcast.net>
References: <47068AA8.60703@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8C9D59A663C6D2C-CA4-1DEE@webmail-db15.sysops.aol.com>

When I lived in CT, I took lots of pictures, including the Fall Festival at Lime Rock.? I sent them off to the British Marque and I guess they kept them and put them in the current issue.? That's how I remember Jim too.

Rudy in NC


-----Original Message-----
From: Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie at comcast.net>
To: healey list <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 3:04 pm
Subject: [Healeys] British Marque Car Club News




There is a nice article by the list's own Jim Smith in the current issue 
of the above periodical.  The picture he used is 11 years old, but he's 
aged well and looked about the same at this year's PVGP.  That is also 
the subject of his article.
Charlie
_______________________________________________
caws52803 at aol.com 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Fri Oct  5 13:11:16 2007
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 15:11:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] rear axle breather
Message-ID: <BAY108-W6F8620650632A2B968404C8A90@phx.gbl>

Hi Andy,
The breather tube is screwed into the axle housing but it is difficult to
remove without destroying the breather tube (at least it was for me).  If I
were you I would go ahead and order one or two from your favorite supplier
(your "best" one) and have it ready to go when the job is done.  They also
screw in kind of hard and I was afraid that I would strip the plastic threads
or break it on installation.  Just go slowly and let the plastic flex a little
and then let up on the pressure.  The top part will probably break off on
withdrawal anyway after 30- 40 years of being there.

Take care,
George Haywood
'65 bj8> From: ampole at hotmail.com> To: healeys at autox.team.net> Date: Fri, 5
Oct 2007 13:27:40 +0000> Subject: [Healeys] rear axle breather> > Guys> I have
just removed the half shafts, diff, bearings, hubs etc from my rear> axle and
would like to get it powder coated. The only thing left to remove is> the
plastic breather tube, is this screwed or pressed into the axle body?> many
thanks Andy>
_________________________________________________________________> Feel like a
local wherever you go.> http://www.backofmyhand.com>
_______________________________________________> haywoodone at hotmail.com > >
Healeys at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
_________________________________________________________________
Peek-a-boo FREE Tricks & Treats for You!
http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us

From bj7healey at gto.net  Fri Oct  5 14:08:06 2007
From: bj7healey at gto.net (Healey List)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 16:08:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Bj7 Mufflers
References: <772031.81523.qm@web83310.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <004501c8078b$733d60b0$04000100@robs>

    I had a stainless steel system for about 6 years. Then last spring I had 
to change the muffler as it had a loss baffle and became very noisy. The new 
muffler ( Not stainless ) has only lasted the summer and now it also has a 
loss baffle that is also noisy.
    Does anyone recomment a good quality muffler for our cars that will last 
?

                                         Bob Slater
                                           1963 BJ7      rob at gto.net 

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Fri Oct  5 14:33:51 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com)
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2007 15:33:51 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Bj7 Mufflers
In-Reply-To: <004501c8078b$733d60b0$04000100@robs>
References: <772031.81523.qm@web83310.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<004501c8078b$733d60b0$04000100@robs>
Message-ID: <c596c5d4959db.959dbc596c5d4@rdc-kc.rr.com>

I have a stainless exhaust system that the SPO (Smart PO) put on the 
car I assume when he did his restoration on the car in the  late 80s.  
It is about the only part of the car I have not had to touch in my 8 
years of ownership.  I don't know who made it.  I think these things 
are low production, largely handmade, so part of the equation may be 
something we have little control over, luck of the draw.

Greg Lemon
54 BN1

From pennell at cox.net  Fri Oct  5 14:40:20 2007
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 16:40:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Wheels
In-Reply-To: <100520071237.28069.4706300A0002664B00006DA522073000339D0A9A0A0506990B0A@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20071005164020.W3IBI.42620.root@eastrmwml14.mgt.cox.net>

Edward,

If you have a few hundred extra dollars in your pocket then by all means go with the 72s.  However, the 60s are adequate for most even spirited driving.  Realize that even 72s will have to be trued by someone.  More spokes does not equate to balanced.  Trued wheels and round tires make a difference!

As for hubs follow the recom that others have given.  If worn replace them when replacing the wheels.

One word of note.  I have found that balancing the rear drums makes a HUGE difference in the shake.  I have bubble balanced several drums and they all required anywhere from about .5 up to 2 ounces of steel rod welded to the perimeter of the drums!!!  If you can get hold of an old fashioned bubble balancer and have some welding capabilities then you can do that yourself.  I borrowed the balancer from my friendly mechanic.

Keith Pennell

> Hello, 
> 
> I've asked this of a few of you already, but wonder what you collectively think about replacing 60 spoke wheels with 72's. I noted modest vibration and shake when driving my (new old) car home this past Sunday at 65-70 mph. 
> 
> A restorer (the same "well-known" one) has been very kind in giving me advice, as he's worked on the car 10 years ago and remembers it well. He feels that the 60's are not adequate for the loads generated by the engine and suspension, regardless of their balance, and strongly suggests going with 72's (agree that BWW is the best source?). He feels that corrects 90% of these "shake" issues with Healeys and that mods to the frame, body panels are rarely necessary. 
> 
> If all this is true, should I replace the hubs also? BWW told me that worn hubs will ruin new wheels. You have to remove the wheels to check this, right? Or would you just suggest replacing the hubs? Any other issues with this that I should be aware of?
> 
> Thanks to you all,
> You've been just great, and I so appreciate your experience and willingness to share it -
> 
> Edw. J. Keuer

From 57healey at gmail.com  Fri Oct  5 14:51:18 2007
From: 57healey at gmail.com (Patton Dickson)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 15:51:18 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Wheels
In-Reply-To: <20071005164020.W3IBI.42620.root@eastrmwml14.mgt.cox.net>
References: <100520071237.28069.4706300A0002664B00006DA522073000339D0A9A0A0506990B0A@comcast.net>
	<20071005164020.W3IBI.42620.root@eastrmwml14.mgt.cox.net>
Message-ID: <743b1e2f0710051351u63dcf47ev9da31bc00066f7f1@mail.gmail.com>

Keith,

That would make a great tech article!!!

Patton (4 drum 100-Six)


On 10/5/07, pennell at cox.net <pennell at cox.net> wrote:
>
>
> One word of note.  I have found that balancing the rear drums makes a HUGE
> difference in the shake.  I have bubble balanced several drums and they all
> required anywhere from about .5 up to 2 ounces of steel rod welded to the
> perimeter of the drums!!!  If you can get hold of an old fashioned bubble
> balancer and have some welding capabilities then you can do that
> yourself.  I borrowed the balancer from my friendly mechanic.
>
> --
> Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX
> 1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out."

From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Oct  5 15:02:04 2007
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2007 21:02:04 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Bj7 Mufflers
Message-ID: <100520072102.1776.4706A64C0005B9EB000006F0220700320104040A0B079F9C0D@comcast.net>

As far as I can tell--from a couple "post mortems" and what
others report--mufflers for Healeys are the glass pack type
(including OEM).  This is true for Ansa, for sure, and probably
Monza and others.  I think what sounds like a broken baffle 
may just be the glass packing went, well, packing.  

Anyone know for certain if there are/were any "turbo" style
mufflers for Healeys, with baffling instead of glass packing?

I'm not convinced that SS is worth the money for Healeys--you're
more liable to batter the muffler to death than rust it out, the
way our cars are usually driven now (not too many used for
short trips to the Quickie Mart, I don't think).

I'm about to replace the front mufflers on my BJ8 with
generic glass packs from JC Whitless--the pipes are 
OK after more than 12 years (Ansa).  You might try that
approach, if you have access to a sawzall and a wire
welder.


bs

--
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Healey List" <bj7healey at gto.net>
>     I had a stainless steel system for about 6 years. Then last spring I had 
> to change the muffler as it had a loss baffle and became very noisy. The new 
> muffler ( Not stainless ) has only lasted the summer and now it also has a 
> loss baffle that is also noisy.
>     Does anyone recomment a good quality muffler for our cars that will last 
> ?
> 
>                                          Bob Slater
>                                            1963 BJ7      rob at gto.net 

From dwhite4949 at wowway.com  Fri Oct  5 16:51:19 2007
From: dwhite4949 at wowway.com (Daniel and Diane White)
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2007 18:51:19 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Re Front Cowl (shroud)
Message-ID: <4706BFE7.1070107@wowway.com>

Henry,
The key word is "gently" try to lift the shroud at it's sides at the 
rearward portion.  Mine would not come loose with this method so I used 
a long (about 12") thin knife and worked it back and forth from the 
cockpit side.  You'll be able to feel it go through the mastic/sealer at 
different points as you cut through it.  After a couple of weeks (just 
kidding) the shroud popped loose.
Dan White
'62 BN7

From rdavies1 at cox.net  Fri Oct  5 21:12:50 2007
From: rdavies1 at cox.net (Ron Davies)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 20:12:50 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] FW: San Diego British Car Day
Message-ID: <002601c807c6$c7909700$6401a8c0@OfficeDell>

For those interested in meeting up from Orange County to go to Sunday's
British Car Day, about 10 LBCs are meeting at 0615 at:

Junipero Serra and the 5 FWY at the Park and Ride just East of the FWY. Map
below.

I'll be leading the group again this year in my DB7 Aston, since I have
cruise control.  

Ron Davies

67 BJ8

97 DB7

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q
<http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&time=&date=&ttype=&q=Juniper
o+Serra+San+Juan+Capistrano,CA&sll=33.520932,-117.666664&sspn=0.008515,0.014
591&ie=UTF8&ll=33.520932,-117.666664&spn=0.008515,0.014591&z=16&om=1>
&hl=en&geocode=&time=&date=&ttype=&q=Junipero+Serra+San+Juan+Capistrano,CA&s
ll=33.520932,-117.666664&sspn=0.008515,0.014591&ie=UTF8&ll=33.520932,-117.66
6664&spn=0.008515,0.014591&z=16&om=1

 



 

Ronald O. Davies, DDS

www.DentalAnesthesia.com

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From glemon at neb.rr.com  Fri Oct  5 21:36:30 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 22:36:30 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] FAHC All British, Lincoln, NE
Message-ID: <01d701c807ca$1614cfb0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>

I know we are not exactly the center of the car universe, but for any 
listers or lurkers in the area or interested the Flatwater Austin Healey 
Club's big event of the year, the All British Show, will be from 10:00 A.M. 
to 3:00 P.M. on October 7th (Sunday) 5901'O' St. Lincoln, NE.

We usually have about 70-80 cars including many big, little and Jensen 
Healeys, as well as MGs TRs, Jaguars, and the odd Land Rover, Lotus, TVR, 
etc.

Greg Lemon, President
Flatwater AHC 

From rudedoggg at earthlink.net  Fri Oct  5 22:21:46 2007
From: rudedoggg at earthlink.net (John Rued)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 22:21:46 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] FAHC All British, Lincoln, NE
References: <01d701c807ca$1614cfb0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
Message-ID: <000b01c807d0$6bfc0690$12abe404@RUDEDOG>

Flatwater.  Hmmm.  Sounds like a fun bunch of people.  I think I'll attend!

JR
Bellevue (NE)
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2007 9:36 PM
Subject: [Healeys] FAHC All British, Lincoln, NE


>I know we are not exactly the center of the car universe, but for any
> listers or lurkers in the area or interested the Flatwater Austin Healey
> Club's big event of the year, the All British Show, will be from 10:00 
> A.M.
> to 3:00 P.M. on October 7th (Sunday) 5901'O' St. Lincoln, NE.
>
> We usually have about 70-80 cars including many big, little and Jensen
> Healeys, as well as MGs TRs, Jaguars, and the odd Land Rover, Lotus, TVR,
> etc.
>
> Greg Lemon, President
> Flatwater AHC

From Warthodson at aol.com  Sat Oct  6 07:06:36 2007
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 09:06:36 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] bellhousing/transmission/overdrive
Message-ID: <c0e.1695c071.3438e25c@aol.com>

I didn't get any response the my first inquiry so I thought I would try a 
gain. Surely someone knows how to determine the proper thickness of the shim pack.
 
There is a "spring plate-bearing" & shim(s) that go between the bellhousing & 
transmission. The purpose is assure there is pressure on the input bearing 
outer race so that does not rotate in the transmission casing. There is a 
similar setup at the rear of the transmission & overdrive. Assuming you have a 
bellhousing, transmission & overdrive that were not original mated together & the 
original shim pack is not available, what is the procedure for determining the 
correct thickness of the spring washer & shim(s) necessary. Is this procedure 
in any of the shop manuals or other Tech. resources?
Gary Hodson



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sat Oct  6 07:21:46 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 06:21:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] bellhousing/transmission/overdrive
In-Reply-To: <c0e.1695c071.3438e25c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKKEEEDGAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>

Gary, it has been a long time since I did this and I'm going from memory
here.
BJ8s do not have the spring plate, as the BJ7s did.  Just shims.
I believe I installed the bearing into its cavity in the bellhousing as far
as it would go, and then added shims until they stood proud of the surface
of the bellhousing a few thousandsths, as measured with a straightedge
across the cavity.  The exact thickness didn't seem critical, as long as it
resulted in the shims being compressed against the outer race of the
bearing.
My recollection also is that the shims were not available from any suppliers
that I knew, and I cut them out of the thin sheet metal of a lacquer thinner
can.
I tried to do it more scientifically, measuring the difference between the
depth of the bearing cavity and the thickness of the bearing, but had
trouble measuring the cavity accurately.

Hope this helps.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
Warthodson at aol.com
Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2007 6:07 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] bellhousing/transmission/overdrive


I didn't get any response the my first inquiry so I thought I would try a
gain. Surely someone knows how to determine the proper thickness of the shim
pack.

There is a "spring plate-bearing" & shim(s) that go between the bellhousing
&
transmission. The purpose is assure there is pressure on the input bearing
outer race so that does not rotate in the transmission casing. There is a
similar setup at the rear of the transmission & overdrive. Assuming you have
a
bellhousing, transmission & overdrive that were not original mated together
& the
original shim pack is not available, what is the procedure for determining
the
correct thickness of the spring washer & shim(s) necessary. Is this
procedure
in any of the shop manuals or other Tech. resources?
Gary Hodson



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
_______________________________________________
sbyers at ec.rr.com

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.2/1052 - Release Date: 10/5/2007
6:53 PM

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sat Oct  6 07:55:14 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 06:55:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator caps
In-Reply-To: <4705B864.1000104@sasktel.net>
Message-ID: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKGEEGDGAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>

The BJ7/BJ8 Mechanical Service List, on Page MC2, shows two applicable
radiator caps, Part Numbers ARH 1542 and  ARH 1662, with the remark that for
ARH 1542 "W.S.E use ARH 1662"  (when stock exhausted).  That would seem to
agree with what is stated in the Anderson - Moment book about a change in
cap pressure:  "...during BJ8 production, the 7-pound cap was replaced in
production by a 10-pound cap with similar appearance.  Later parts lists
instructed dealers to substitute a 10-pound cap as stocks of the earlier
caps were exhausted."

It sure would be nice if someone had the technical specs for the part
numbers.  There is a difference in the two caps, and it may be the pressure
rating.  But it could also be anything else, too.  Since the 7-lb cap was
good for the earlier models and the early BJ8s, I guess the suppliers didn't
see any reason to manufacture a 10-lb cap just to agree with the parts list.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock,NC  USA



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
E.A. Driver
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 9:07 PM
To: Austin Healey list
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator caps


A review of the "SC Parts Group Ltd.: Parts and Accessories BN1-BJ8"
catalogue, some
300 pages in length, indicates that early BN1 used a radiator cap of 4 psi
while later BN1 and BN2
called for 7 psi radiator cap. They list for BN4 to end of BJ8 a 7 psi cap.
Only one radiator
cap is available  from Cape International for BN4 to BJ8, it is rated at 7
psi.

In a lengthy review of the factory shop manual for 100-six and 3000 from '56
through '67 ;
the Haynes manual for the same model series; and the driver's handbooks for
the same
series of models , only the BN4 (100-six) owners handbook mentions psi of
the radiator
" a pressure relief valve located in the radiator filler cap, opens at
approximately 4 lbs. per sq.
in."
Therefore, the earlier advice suggesting  that the maximum psi be 7 psi for
a radiator cap seems
to me to be most reasonable until someone can produce actual documentation
to the
contrary.

Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
'53 BN1 '65 BJ8  '89 Morgan 4/4

From gbrierton at hotmail.com  Sat Oct  6 09:29:42 2007
From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (G. Brierton)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 11:29:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Wheels
References: <100520071237.28069.4706300A0002664B00006DA522073000339D0A9A0A0506990B0A@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BLU107-DAV1093B008EEBD680F93096CB3AA0@phx.gbl>

Coast to coast, I believe Hendrix is the best for anything Healey.  When I 
went to Vermont (Conclave 2007), a deflating tire set up a shimmy that 
started my spokes a' snapping.  Allen shipped me two new balanced tires on 
wheels, I put them on, and they are perfect. When I got back to NC, we 
replaced the other two and all's well.  Ten years of working with Allen 
Hendrix and never a disappointment!  He will "take the shake out" and do 
almost anything else you want done to your Healey, at a fair price with 
excellent customer service and backup.
Gary B & the Silver Bullet (BJ8 #40045)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <edwjkeuer at comcast.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2007 8:37 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Wheels


> Hello,
>
> I've asked this of a few of you already, but wonder what you collectively 
> think about replacing 60 spoke wheels with 72's. I noted modest vibration 
> and shake when driving my (new old) car home this past Sunday at 65-70 
> mph.

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Sat Oct  6 16:14:07 2007
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 15:14:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Overriders
In-Reply-To: <47062A3F.7030404@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <925646.69900.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Charlie ... I understand , we do have the overrider
with a flat on the top

Norman Nock




--- Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie at comcast.net> wrote:

> I think what I was asking has not been understood. 
> The original 
> overriders had a flat top.  All of the repros I have
> seen have a totally 
> radiused top.  This has been the case for many
> years.  Does anyone make 
> the flat topped ones or are all of the repros curved
> top?  All of the 
> suppliers have overriders, but who has the flat
> topped ones if they exist?
> Thanks.
> Charlie
> 
> Norman Nock wrote:
> 
> >Charlie ... We have those overriders you asked
> about
> >.... Norman Nock  British Car Specialists . 2060 N
> >Wilson Way . Stockton. Ca 94205
> >209-948-8767 FAX 209-948-1030
> >
> >www.BritishCarSpecialists.com
> >tech. questions David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
> >Parts inquiry, Sheila Nock-Huggins
> >britishcardoc at sbcglobal.net
> >
> ... Norman Npck

From nickzarkades at comcast.net  Sat Oct  6 16:28:21 2007
From: nickzarkades at comcast.net (nickzarkades at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2007 22:28:21 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 2007 Conclave badge bar badges
Message-ID: <100620072228.15338.47080C0500047DB000003BEA22007348309C0A0B0E059D0E96050C0702@comcast.net>

I designed the badge and was on the committee, we did not sell the minimum to place the order, we placed an ad in the past issue of the Marque and received the necessary orders. The order has been placed and everybody will be receiving their badge shortly. Sorry for the delay.

Nick Zarkades
Committee member

P.S. Everybody I have meet  in the organization has been trustworthy!
 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "George Haywood" <haywoodone at hotmail.com>
> Hi all,
> 
> I am just wondering, has anyone received their 2007 Conclave badge that was 
> on sale there?  Who were the people selling them and does anyone know 
> anything about where they are being made or when they will be sent to those 
> of us who paid for them?  I feel silly not getting a receipt but the lady 
> there said that no receipts would be given for the badges.  I am usually not 
> that trusting but everyone I have run across in the Healey world so far 
> during my restoration has been quite trustworthy.  It is a very handsome 
> badge and it will look good on my new bar.
> 
> Take care,
> George Haywood
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Now you can see troublebefore he arrives 
> http://newlivehotmail.com/?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_viral_protection_0507
> _______________________________________________
> nickzarkades at comcast.net 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From Healeyguy at aol.com  Sat Oct  6 20:00:00 2007
From: Healeyguy at aol.com (Healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 22:00:00 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Smokin' New Clutch
Message-ID: <c8c.15c72578.343997a0@aol.com>

Listers
Just installed a new clutch in a friends BJ7. Actually used a BJ8 set  up, 
flywheel to release bearing. Must have done about 50 clutch jobs in the  last 
40+ years but this one had a different twist.  
 
Everything thing went back together without much fanfare. The clutch  
hydraulics checked out fine with full movement of the slave piston without  hitting 
the c clip at the end of the bore.  The car was still on jack  stands so we 
decided to give it a go. (Don't flame me for starting the car  on jack stands 
'cause they are really big ones!)
 
Started the engine and warmed it up. Fixed the bad ground on the regulator,  
the light got very bright all of a sudden and remembered the early emails on 
the  list about this problem.  Thanks! 
 
Restarted with clutch pedal fully depressed and after a few seconds smelled  
something burning. Smoke was coming out any available orifice in the bell  
housing.  The driveshaft, which was still fully exposed, was not turning  and the 
hand brake was off. Assumed the clutch disc was dragging but with no  
movement of the drive shaft and the fact that the gears can be selected at will  this 
seemed strange.  No unusual noises. Shut it off. Let the clutch up and  
started the car in neutral and the smoke does not emanate from said orifices.  
Start again with clutch pedal to the metal and bingo, instant smoke. Really  funky 
burnt clutch smell.
 
Anybody have a smokin' clutch before and if so did you find the  cause?  
Think it will seat in (burn off the offending bits) and go away?  Should I just 
close up the trans cover and tell the owner that there must be a  dead animal 
trapped in there somewhere? 
 
Let me know if you have any bright ideas.  Suspect I'll be pulling the  trans 
again shortly. 
Aloha
Perry



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From MedLabInc at msn.com  Sat Oct  6 21:02:22 2007
From: MedLabInc at msn.com (Dick Matson)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 20:02:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Wheels
Message-ID: <BAY108-DAV33CE225E4F0A4EC644E6AA2AB0@phx.gbl>

Ditto.
Balance the rear drums when you get a chance.
My car went from vague jitter sometimes to smooth all the time - after doing
this.

DM / Bj8





On 10/5/07, pennell at cox.net<mailto:pennell at cox.net>
<pennell at cox.net<mailto:pennell at cox.net>> wrote:
>
>
> One word of note.  I have found that balancing the rear drums makes a HUGE
> difference in the shake.  I have bubble balanced several drums and they all
> required anywhere from about .5 up to 2 ounces of steel rod welded to the
> perimeter of the drums!!!  If you can get hold of an old fashioned bubble
> balancer and have some welding capabilities then you can do that
> yourself.  I borrowed the balancer from my friendly mechanic.

From geatros at shaw.ca  Sat Oct  6 21:48:16 2007
From: geatros at shaw.ca (geatros)
Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2007 20:48:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Smokin' New Clutch
Message-ID: <001401c80894$e4e712b0$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>

Hey Perry,

I've had a new Healey clutch smoke for a while when I first ran the car after
installation.The burning didn't last
very long, the clutch is still in the car working fine ........

Cheers
Kenny

From scott at scottjgraham.com  Sun Oct  7 05:57:07 2007
From: scott at scottjgraham.com (Scott J Graham)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 21:57:07 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] GEARBOX / HYDRAULICS - WHICH IS IT?
Message-ID: <001c01c808d9$3090caa0$0200a8c0@yourpdnds2yigt>

The box in my BJ7 is crunching slightly in each of the gears when hot.  The
clutch feels spongy underfoot. The o/d was out recently and the clutch was
checked and is in good nick. I had the clutch bled this week which has
improved feel a bit and reduced the crunching a little. I was told that the
issue may be the master or slave cylinder on their way out.  What thinks the
group?  I need to get this sorted as I will be running in the local Alpine
Rally this coming weekend and do not want to drive it if clutch issues are
gradually ruining the gearbox.



Scott Graham

BJ7 Schappelle

Sydney Australia


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.3/1054 - Release Date: 6/10/2007
7:12 PM

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Sun Oct  7 06:33:36 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 07:33:36 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] SOS '07 Food call
Message-ID: <007901c808de$49dc5ec0$dd951c40$@com>

Hey y'all,

 

If you've attended SOS previously, you know you won't go home hungry. 

 

In the past, some folks that couldn't attend sent a variety of foods for the
party. Clams, scrapple, brats, Swedish pancakes, cheese curds, homemade beef
jerky, pork loin, calamari, etc have been served.

 

So, of you' like to contribute to the culinary efforts, please contact me
sooner rather than later so we can figure out the event menu, and the
logistics of getting your contribution here. (Since we live in WI, we have
the mandatory large chest freezer in the basement for deer and ex-wife
carcasses.)

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Sun Oct  7 07:06:22 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 08:06:22 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] SOS '07 parts is parts
Message-ID: <007f01c808e2$ddcf2370$996d6a50$@com>

Sometimes you have to take the good with the bad. Such is the case when you
buy up someone's entire inventory of cars & parts. I've got 7 "parts cars"
that are going to be picked clean to the bone and sent to the crusher to
become Chinese made bench vices at Horrible Freight.

 

There's plenty of good parts on these. Some, I'll keep in order to keep my
own spares inventory well stocked. But, some parts I won't need, and would
like to see them used. For instance, I'm sure there's one or two of you MG
guys that need the side chrome trim pieces. So, if you have any specific
needs, speak up, and we'll look over the cadavers and see if we can help you
out.

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Oct  7 07:44:29 2007
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 09:44:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Splash Pan
Message-ID: <20071007.094430.3008.1.dwflagg@juno.com>

I have a 100 splash pan, body #11608 (appears to an original red). It is
in remarkably excellent condition. If this belongs to your car or you can
help locate the car, please contact me off the list. I will gladly send
it to the owner. Thanks.

Doug

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Oct  7 08:06:09 2007
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 07 Oct 2007 07:06:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] GEARBOX / HYDRAULICS - WHICH IS IT?
In-Reply-To: <001c01c808d9$3090caa0$0200a8c0@yourpdnds2yigt>
References: <001c01c808d9$3090caa0$0200a8c0@yourpdnds2yigt>
Message-ID: <4708E7D1.2030107@comcast.net>

Scott,

re:
"The box in my BJ7 is crunching slightly in each of the gears when hot. 
The clutch feels
spongy underfoot. The o/d was out recently and the clutch was checked 
and is in good
nick. I had the clutch bled this week which has improved feel a bit and 
reduced the
crunching a little. I was told that the issue may be the master or slave 
cylinder on their way out."


Sure sounds like it.  One way to check would be to assess the travel on 
the push rod on the
slave cylinder.  Unfortunately, I couldn't find a spec for the desired 
travel in my shop manual--
maybe another lister knows the nominal value? 

Have someone work the clutch whilst you watch the fluid level in the 
reservoir--if the fluid
rises (or bubbles) when the clutch pedal is pressed a master cyl rebuild 
is in order (the small
seal that closes the opening to the reservoir is shot).  If the cyl 
walls look good, a seal kit
should do it.

One other possibility is a weak flex line to the slave cylinder.  If you 
do end up redoing the
hydraulics, I'd rebuild/replace the master and slave--unless one or the 
other is new or you're
sure it's good--and replace the flex line.  Then, you shouldn't have to 
worry about it for quite
awhile.


bs



Scott J Graham wrote:
> The box in my BJ7 is crunching slightly in each of the gears when hot.  The
> clutch feels spongy underfoot. The o/d was out recently and the clutch was
> checked and is in good nick. I had the clutch bled this week which has
> improved feel a bit and reduced the crunching a little. I was told that the
> issue may be the master or slave cylinder on their way out.  What thinks the
> group?  I need to get this sorted as I will be running in the local Alpine
> Rally this coming weekend and do not want to drive it if clutch issues are
> gradually ruining the gearbox.
>
>
>
> Scott Graham
>
> BJ7 Schappelle
>
> Sydney Australia
>   
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Sun Oct  7 10:12:27 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 11:12:27 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] [Spridgets] SOS '07 parts is parts
In-Reply-To: <47088EEA.28806.1550E8@dmg.bossig.com>
References: <007f01c808e2$ddcf2370$996d6a50$@com>
	<47088EEA.28806.1550E8@dmg.bossig.com>
Message-ID: <000601c808fc$dd0c97f0$9725c7d0$@com>

There's a Bugeye, 2 or 3 MKII Sprite/MKI Midgets, 1 or 2 MKIII Sprite/MKII
Midgets, and a round arch Midget.

-----Original Message-----
From: Dave G. [mailto:dmg at bossig.com] 
Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 9:47 AM
To: Wm. Severin Thompson; 'Spridgets'; team-thicko at autox.team.net;
mgs at autox.team.net; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] SOS '07 parts is parts

Any idea as to the approx year of the carcasses??  ;^\

-
Dave G
'65 MKIII Sprite

From schauss at worldnet.att.net  Sun Oct  7 12:01:12 2007
From: schauss at worldnet.att.net (Peter Schauss)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 14:01:12 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] GEARBOX / HYDRAULICS - WHICH IS IT?
In-Reply-To: <001c01c808d9$3090caa0$0200a8c0@yourpdnds2yigt>
Message-ID: <20071007180145.4E3F0187BDA@autox.team.net>

Scott,

Check the end of the master cylinder pushrod where it links to the clutch
pedal.  When I replaced my master cylinder, I found that the hole for the
clevis pin had become a slot.  I was loosing almost 1/2" of travel.

Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB

> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+schauss=worldnet.att.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+schauss=worldnet.att.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf
> Of Scott J Graham
> Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 7:57 AM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] GEARBOX / HYDRAULICS - WHICH IS IT?
>
> The box in my BJ7 is crunching slightly in each of the gears when hot.
> The
> clutch feels spongy underfoot. The o/d was out recently and the clutch was
> checked and is in good nick. I had the clutch bled this week which has
> improved feel a bit and reduced the crunching a little. I was told that
> the
> issue may be the master or slave cylinder on their way out.  What thinks
> the
> group?  I need to get this sorted as I will be running in the local Alpine
> Rally this coming weekend and do not want to drive it if clutch issues are
> gradually ruining the gearbox.
>
>
>
> Scott Graham
>
> BJ7 Schappelle
>
> Sydney Australia
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.3/1054 - Release Date: 6/10/2007
> 7:12 PM
> _______________________________________________
> schauss at worldnet.att.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Oct  7 12:59:05 2007
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 14:59:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Safety Gauge
Message-ID: <20071007.145906.3444.1.dwflagg@juno.com>

I have a complete, rebuildable safety gauge  GD 1502/05 for the
100-6/3000. It has an extra face and bezel. If interested, please contact
me off the list.

Doug

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Sun Oct  7 14:07:31 2007
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 16:07:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] GEARBOX / HYDRAULICS - WHICH IS IT?
In-Reply-To: <20071007180145.4E3F0187BDA@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000101c8091d$b22ec410$c02cd24a@compaq>

Scott,
You mention that the overdrive was recently serviced. It would pay to
check that the hose to the clutch slave cylinder enters the bottom of
the cylinder rather so that the bleed screw is at the top. If it has
been installed incorrectly such that the bleed screw is much more
conveniently situated on the bottom it is impossible to correctly bleed
the clutch system.
Also it would pay to ensure that the clutch hose is in good condition,
these tend to collapse inward which restricts the fluid flow and can
cause all manner of weird symptoms.

Michael Salter


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Peter Schauss
Sent: October 7, 2007 2:01 PM
To: 'Scott J Graham'; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] GEARBOX / HYDRAULICS - WHICH IS IT?

Scott,

Check the end of the master cylinder pushrod where it links to the
clutch
pedal.  When I replaced my master cylinder, I found that the hole for
the
clevis pin had become a slot.  I was loosing almost 1/2" of travel.

Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB

> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+schauss=worldnet.att.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+schauss=worldnet.att.net at autox.team.net] On
Behalf
> Of Scott J Graham
> Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 7:57 AM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] GEARBOX / HYDRAULICS - WHICH IS IT?
>
> The box in my BJ7 is crunching slightly in each of the gears when hot.
> The
> clutch feels spongy underfoot. The o/d was out recently and the clutch
was
> checked and is in good nick. I had the clutch bled this week which has
> improved feel a bit and reduced the crunching a little. I was told
that
> the
> issue may be the master or slave cylinder on their way out.  What
thinks
> the
> group?  I need to get this sorted as I will be running in the local
Alpine
> Rally this coming weekend and do not want to drive it if clutch issues
are
> gradually ruining the gearbox.
>
>
>
> Scott Graham
>
> BJ7 Schappelle
>
> Sydney Australia

From mkgoodman at worldnet.att.net  Sun Oct  7 14:20:21 2007
From: mkgoodman at worldnet.att.net (Mark Goodman)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 16:20:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Great Insprational Video
Message-ID: <001001c8091f$8bc440f0$a34cc2d0$@att.net>

This video has been circulating for a few weeks, and has gotten lots of
media attention. It is a lecture given by a 46 year old Professor at
Carnegie Mellon who was diagnosed with an aggressive cancer, and given a few
short months to live. He calls it his "Last Lecture" It is long (1 1/2 hrs),
but powerful and uplifting. Instead of watching TV this week, watch this and
share it with your kids. it is the stuff great sermons are made from!

 

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=362421849901825950
<http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=362421849901825950&hl=en> &hl=en 

From davzu29 at cox.net  Sun Oct  7 16:00:32 2007
From: davzu29 at cox.net (David Z)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 18:00:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Wheels
References: <100520071237.28069.4706300A0002664B00006DA522073000339D0A9A0A0506990B0A@comcast.net><20071005164020.W3IBI.42620.root@eastrmwml14.mgt.cox.net>
	<743b1e2f0710051351u63dcf47ev9da31bc00066f7f1@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <004601c8092f$58383290$6601a8c0@ORGANIZA79207D>

I found I had a very significant shake on my BJ-8 when driving fast, about 
75 or 80 MPH.  It felt like the rear end was bouncing up and down - in a 
dramatic fashion giving me a pretty good scare.  I typically don't drive 
that speed, and owned the car for quite a while before it showed up.  My 
first thought was I was getting a flat tire, but as soon as I slowed to 70 
MPH or so the shake stopped and I continued on my drive.  Afer assessing my 
options, I sent my drums to Hendrix.  They indicated both drums were 
significantly out of balance.  Upon installing the newly balanced drums, the 
shake disappeared.  My car has never driven more smoothly - even noticable 
at slower speeds.   Just a highly satisfied custer........
David Z.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Patton Dickson" <57healey at gmail.com>
To: <pennell at cox.net>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>; <edwjkeuer at comcast.net>
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2007 4:51 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels


> Keith,
>
> That would make a great tech article!!!
>
> Patton (4 drum 100-Six)
>
>
> On 10/5/07, pennell at cox.net <pennell at cox.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>> One word of note.  I have found that balancing the rear drums makes a 
>> HUGE
>> difference in the shake.  I have bubble balanced several drums and they 
>> all
>> required anywhere from about .5 up to 2 ounces of steel rod welded to the
>> perimeter of the drums!!!  If you can get hold of an old fashioned bubble
>> balancer and have some welding capabilities then you can do that
>> yourself.  I borrowed the balancer from my friendly mechanic.
>>
>> --
>> Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX
>> 1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out."
> 

-- 
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 97 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Sun Oct  7 18:12:04 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 19:12:04 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] SOS '07 parts is parts pricing part 1
Message-ID: <004901c8093f$dd7cc370$98764a50$@com>

Hey y'all,

 

I've been giving this some thought. here's what I have in mind.  Larry,
Dave, and brother Don get first dibs, as they were the ones brave/stupid
enough to help snatch some of these cars. Many of you have asked about
specific parts, and in many cases, I think we'll have something for you.
Some other things, we won't know until they can inspected further. The 4
most recent cars have all been powerwashed once, and are being left out in
the rain/weather until SOS just to try to get the stench of raccoon pooh and
wiz a little less obvious. Ugggh.

 

I've got a lot of Spridgets. some street cars, and some race cars. I try to
collect what I think I'll need during the next 20 or so years of my
racing/restoration hobby. because this stuff is becoming unobtanium. But,
despite having 6000 sq ft of storage, there is a limit. I've bought enough
collections of cars and parts over the years from folks getting out of the
hobby, or from widows after some poor slob died to know I don't want to
burden the living with all my crap once I'm gone. 

 

2.5 years after moving here, I'm slowly gaining on organizing my shop, and
my cars & parts. The rest, I'd rather see go to folks trying to keep these
cars on the road, rather than just dump truckloads of parts for scrap metal
prices (which actually are pretty good these days). Some stuff will see
Ebay, but my preference is these parts go to members of these lists, and
more specifically, participants in SOS (whether in person or peripherally).

 

More in part 2.

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Sun Oct  7 18:29:21 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 19:29:21 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] SOS '07 parts pricing part 2
Message-ID: <005501c80942$4723f710$d56be530$@com>

So, if  it turns out amongst these 7 cars that there's something serviceable
that you can use, make me an offer. You know what some of these items go
for.. sometimes expensive, sometimes a bargain. (Sometimes you have to make
six 180 mile round trips and wade through raccoon pooh to get 4 of  them,
two 150 mile round trips to get 2 of them, and one 200 mile round trip to
get the other one).

 

I will not name a price. You make an offer.

 

Your offer will need to be in addition to whatever costs are involved in
shipping it to you if necessary. If you're here, you'll save on shipping. A
small portion of what you pay will go toward funding SOS, and the majority
will be donated to the Fond du Lac Humane Society. We just lost one of our 5
shelter rescued dogs. Hannah. I had her 14 years. The pack is holding steady
at 4 now, although Louie is older than dirt.

 

So, buy some parts, and help support homeless animals (and reduce the amount
of crap my heirs will have to deal with when I take a dirt nap).

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From amalin at mac.com  Sun Oct  7 18:34:34 2007
From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 20:34:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Great Insprational Video
In-Reply-To: <001001c8091f$8bc440f0$a34cc2d0$@att.net>
References: <001001c8091f$8bc440f0$a34cc2d0$@att.net>
Message-ID: <560FA61D-2152-42DB-BAA5-6B4265DC6EBB@mac.com>

My wife and I just finished watching it and we both agree 100% with  
your assessment of the lecture.

On Oct 7, 2007, at 4:20 PM, Mark Goodman wrote:

> This video has been circulating for a few weeks, and has gotten  
> lots of
> media attention. It is a lecture given by a 46 year old Professor at
> Carnegie Mellon who was diagnosed with an aggressive cancer, and  
> given a few
> short months to live. He calls it his "Last Lecture" It is long (1  
> 1/2 hrs),
> but powerful and uplifting. Instead of watching TV this week, watch  
> this and
> share it with your kids. it is the stuff great sermons are made from!
>
>
>
> http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=362421849901825950
> <http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=362421849901825950&hl=en>  
> &hl=en
> _______________________________________________
> amalin at mac.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From wilko2 at cox.net  Sun Oct  7 18:38:17 2007
From: wilko2 at cox.net (Eric (Rick) Wilkins)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 17:38:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Wheels
In-Reply-To: <004601c8092f$58383290$6601a8c0@ORGANIZA79207D>
References: <100520071237.28069.4706300A0002664B00006DA522073000339D0A9A0A0506990B0A@comcast.net><20071005164020.W3IBI.42620.root@eastrmwml14.mgt.cox.net>
	<743b1e2f0710051351u63dcf47ev9da31bc00066f7f1@mail.gmail.com>
	<004601c8092f$58383290$6601a8c0@ORGANIZA79207D>
Message-ID: <57ED0C40-39BF-4ED7-8FD3-AE158B6D966B@cox.net>

If you guys really want to lose the shake, get a set of spline drive  
minilites and be done with it.

Mine are bolt-on, but the effect is the same:

http://www.ewilkins.com/wilko/minilite.htm



On Oct 7, 2007, at 3:00 PM, David Z wrote:

> I found I had a very significant shake on my BJ-8 when driving  
> fast, about
> 75 or 80 MPH.  It felt like the rear end was bouncing up and down -  
> in a
> dramatic fashion giving me a pretty good scare.  I typically don't  
> drive
> that speed, and owned the car for quite a while before it showed  
> up.  My
> first thought was I was getting a flat tire, but as soon as I  
> slowed to 70
> MPH or so the shake stopped and I continued on my drive.  Afer  
> assessing my
> options, I sent my drums to Hendrix.  They indicated both drums were
> significantly out of balance.  Upon installing the newly balanced  
> drums, the
> shake disappeared.  My car has never driven more smoothly - even  
> noticable
> at slower speeds.   Just a highly satisfied custer........
> David Z.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Patton Dickson" <57healey at gmail.com>
> To: <pennell at cox.net>
> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>; <edwjkeuer at comcast.net>
> Sent: Friday, October 05, 2007 4:51 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels
>
>
>> Keith,
>>
>> That would make a great tech article!!!
>>
>> Patton (4 drum 100-Six)
>>
>>
>> On 10/5/07, pennell at cox.net <pennell at cox.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> One word of note.  I have found that balancing the rear drums  
>>> makes a
>>> HUGE
>>> difference in the shake.  I have bubble balanced several drums  
>>> and they
>>> all
>>> required anywhere from about .5 up to 2 ounces of steel rod  
>>> welded to the
>>> perimeter of the drums!!!  If you can get hold of an old  
>>> fashioned bubble
>>> balancer and have some welding capabilities then you can do that
>>> yourself.  I borrowed the balancer from my friendly mechanic.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX
>>> 1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out."
>>
>
> -- 
> I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
> It has removed 97 spam emails to date.
> Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
> Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len
> _______________________________________________
> wilko2 at cox.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From allynrichardson at cox.net  Sun Oct  7 20:32:40 2007
From: allynrichardson at cox.net (Allyn Richardson)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 19:32:40 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey related: exhaust popping noise
Message-ID: <20071008023330.HQIP204.fed1rmmtao103.cox.net@fed1rmimpo01.cox.net>

NOT HALEY RELATED but: I have a 1988 Jeep Grandwagoneer I am restoring. I
recently changed out the old muffler for a new one, (allegedly OEM). when
the engine runs there is a distinct pop, pop, pinging noise coming from the
exhaust system. Not a back fire thru the carb. But seems to be in the
exhaust system. No restriction in the catalytic converter and I checked the
valves, none are sticking. This happens when idling and it's a dog when
driving. I'm stumped. To small of a muffler causing back pressure? Any
suggestions and enlightenment would be greatly appreciated. 
 
Allyn  

From JNBrashear at garverengineers.com  Mon Oct  8 07:25:46 2007
From: JNBrashear at garverengineers.com (Brashear, Jack, N)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 08:25:46 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Brand new muffler is a P.O.S.
Message-ID: <2D0989D186D44349BE853EE6CFC87AE6036120CA@glitas07.garverinc.local>

What's the deal on "new" pre-BJ8 mufflers??  This one was mfgd. by
Walker and it's thinner material and louder than the one I replaced.  Do
all (or most) of the usual suppliers sell the same brand??  Is it
Chinese??  It doesn't say so on the box.  I'm now thinking about a
complete SS system with down pipes and everything.  Does anyone know a
reliable source of these??  Oh yes, it's for a BT7 Mk2.  Many thanks to
this awesome List.

Jack

From dwflagg at juno.com  Mon Oct  8 07:35:32 2007
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 09:35:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Mounting Brackets
Message-ID: <20071008.093533.2224.0.dwflagg@juno.com>

I have a small assortment of auxiliary instrument mounting brackets. If
you have a need or interest, please contact me off the list. Thanks.

Doug

From twillig at ruda.de  Mon Oct  8 08:31:23 2007
From: twillig at ruda.de (Thomas Willig)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 16:31:23 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Coverting Healey 100 BN2 to front disc brakes
Message-ID: <0710081631244400@ruda.de>

Hi folks, 

I am planning to convert my 100 BN2 to disc brakes in front, while keeping
the original drum brake layout at the back. I am very uncertain about the
size of the master-cylinder. I have asked Denis Welch Motors for their
recommendation, they say that the standard size master cylinder of 3/4"
"should" work. On the other hand, I remember converting a Bugeye Sprite to
front discs and ended up with an abnormal hard brake pedal, which made me
change the master cylinder to a smaller size (original Sprite drum brake
7/8" bore, Sprite disc brake 3/4" bore). 

Has anybody some experience with this conversion? 

Regards 

Thomas

From JNBrashear at garverengineers.com  Mon Oct  8 08:58:01 2007
From: JNBrashear at garverengineers.com (Brashear, Jack, N)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 09:58:01 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Coverting Healey 100 BN2 to front disc brakes
In-Reply-To: <0710081631244400@ruda.de>
Message-ID: <2D0989D186D44349BE853EE6CFC87AE6036121B3@glitas07.garverinc.local>

Hi Thomas, I can't imagine why your proposed setup would be any
different than the (non-servo) disk/drum arrangement of a BT7 with a
5/8" diameter master cylinder.  Mine always had a good balance between
F&R for stopping with very comfortable effort needed from my leg.  Just
my 2-cents-worth.
Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+jnbrashear=garverengineers.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+jnbrashear=garverengineers.com at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Thomas Willig
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 9:31 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Coverting Healey 100 BN2 to front disc brakes

Hi folks,

I am planning to convert my 100 BN2 to disc brakes in front, while
keeping
the original drum brake layout at the back. I am very uncertain about
the
size of the master-cylinder. I have asked Denis Welch Motors for their
recommendation, they say that the standard size master cylinder of 3/4"
"should" work. On the other hand, I remember converting a Bugeye Sprite
to
front discs and ended up with an abnormal hard brake pedal, which made
me
change the master cylinder to a smaller size (original Sprite drum brake
7/8" bore, Sprite disc brake 3/4" bore).

Has anybody some experience with this conversion?

Regards

Thomas
_______________________________________________
jnbrashear at garverengineers.com

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From twillig at ruda.de  Mon Oct  8 09:12:41 2007
From: twillig at ruda.de (Thomas Willig)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 17:12:41 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Coverting Healey 100 BN2 to front disc brakes
In-Reply-To: <2D0989D186D44349BE853EE6CFC87AE6036121B3@glitas07.garverinc.local>
Message-ID: <0710081712436200@ruda.de>

Hi Jack,

if I understood you correctly, than your advise would be to get a smaller
m-cyl of 5/8" instead of the original 3/4". This would correspond with my
"Sprite-experience" mentioned below. My only point is that this is
theoretical and I would like to have some first hand experience from someone
"who dunnit".

Best regards


Thomas

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Brashear, Jack, N [mailto:JNBrashear at garverengineers.com]
Gesendet: Montag, 8. Oktober 2007 16:58
An: Thomas Willig; healeys at autox.team.net
Betreff: RE: [Healeys] Coverting Healey 100 BN2 to front disc brakes

Hi Thomas, I can't imagine why your proposed setup would be any different
than the (non-servo) disk/drum arrangement of a BT7 with a 5/8" diameter
master cylinder.  Mine always had a good balance between F&R for stopping
with very comfortable effort needed from my leg.  Just my 2-cents-worth.
Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+jnbrashear=garverengineers.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+jnbrashear=garverengineers.com at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Thomas Willig
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 9:31 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Coverting Healey 100 BN2 to front disc brakes

Hi folks,

I am planning to convert my 100 BN2 to disc brakes in front, while keeping
the original drum brake layout at the back. I am very uncertain about the
size of the master-cylinder. I have asked Denis Welch Motors for their
recommendation, they say that the standard size master cylinder of 3/4"
"should" work. On the other hand, I remember converting a Bugeye Sprite to
front discs and ended up with an abnormal hard brake pedal, which made me
change the master cylinder to a smaller size (original Sprite drum brake
7/8" bore, Sprite disc brake 3/4" bore).

Has anybody some experience with this conversion?

Regards

Thomas
_______________________________________________
jnbrashear at garverengineers.com

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Oct  8 09:18:39 2007
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 08:18:39 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Coverting Healey 100 BN2 to front disc brakes
In-Reply-To: <0710081631244400@ruda.de>
References: <0710081631244400@ruda.de>
Message-ID: <EE808575-18B8-4197-9766-F573E1144EFD@sbcglobal.net>

We have done this conversion several times and it works great. We  
also have installed a power servo on several 100/4s so get a stronger  
pedal. The only problem with installing a servo is at slow walking  
speed you have a very strong pedal.

The only problem with doing the 100/4 conversion is when you  
converting a early BN1 the inside diameter of  the rear cylinders it  
to large and you will not get a strong pedal.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Oct 8, 2007, at 7:31 AM, Thomas Willig wrote:

> Hi folks,
>
> I am planning to convert my 100 BN2 to disc brakes in front, while  
> keeping
> the original drum brake layout at the back. I am very uncertain  
> about the
> size of the master-cylinder. I have asked Denis Welch Motors for their
> recommendation, they say that the standard size master cylinder of  
> 3/4"
> "should" work. On the other hand, I remember converting a Bugeye  
> Sprite to
> front discs and ended up with an abnormal hard brake pedal, which  
> made me
> change the master cylinder to a smaller size (original Sprite drum  
> brake
> 7/8" bore, Sprite disc brake 3/4" bore).
>
> Has anybody some experience with this conversion?
>
> Regards
>
> Thomas
> _______________________________________________
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From don at anglesey.us  Mon Oct  8 09:38:24 2007
From: don at anglesey.us (Don )
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 09:38:24 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Coverting Healey 100 BN2 to front disc brakes
In-Reply-To: <0710081631244400@ruda.de>
Message-ID: <!~!UENERkVCMDkAAQACAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABgAAAAAAAAA0URZJ8mcIE6Bk2YxB8q6GMKAAAAQAAAAgNUMUEoSpk6B7eybHDPjbAEAAAAA@anglesey.us>

FWIW, I converted my early BN4 to front discs and used the stock master
cylinder and the pedal action seems about the same as when it had the
drums.
Don
57'BN4  

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+don=anglesey.us at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+don=anglesey.us at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Thomas Willig
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 8:31 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Coverting Healey 100 BN2 to front disc brakes

Hi folks, 

I am planning to convert my 100 BN2 to disc brakes in front, while
keeping
the original drum brake layout at the back. I am very uncertain about
the
size of the master-cylinder. I have asked Denis Welch Motors for their
recommendation, they say that the standard size master cylinder of 3/4"
"should" work. On the other hand, I remember converting a Bugeye Sprite
to
front discs and ended up with an abnormal hard brake pedal, which made
me
change the master cylinder to a smaller size (original Sprite drum brake
7/8" bore, Sprite disc brake 3/4" bore). 

Has anybody some experience with this conversion? 

Regards 

Thomas
_______________________________________________
don at anglesey.us 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Mon Oct  8 11:20:05 2007
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 13:20:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] rear axle breather
References: <BLU108-W283F3B4BCEC36A44A1A9A9D5A90@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <01d901c809cf$7802f880$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>

Hi Andy,

The white plastic (maybe nylon) axle breather tube on a C series  rear axle 
has a cover cap that should pull straight up and off, whereas the stem is 
threaded so must be carefully unscrewed.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "andy pole" <ampole at hotmail.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2007 9:27 AM
Subject: [Healeys] rear axle breather


> Guys
> I have just removed the half shafts, diff, bearings, hubs etc from my rear
> axle and would like to get it powder coated. The only thing left to remove 
> is
> the plastic breather tube, is this screwed or pressed into the axle body?
> many thanks Andy
> _________________________________________________________________
> Feel like a local wherever you go.
> http://www.backofmyhand.com
> _______________________________________________
> richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From dwflagg at juno.com  Mon Oct  8 16:13:07 2007
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 18:13:07 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Mounting Brackets Update
Message-ID: <20071008.181307.1436.1.dwflagg@juno.com>

I should have been more specific in my description of the brackets. They
are the type to mount 2" instruments under the dash. Thanks.

Doug

From dwhite4949 at wowway.com  Mon Oct  8 17:06:14 2007
From: dwhite4949 at wowway.com (Daniel and Diane White)
Date: Mon, 08 Oct 2007 19:06:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Re Brand new muffer
Message-ID: <470AB7E6.8080108@wowway.com>

Jack,
I recently purchased and installed a complete stainless exhaust system 
from AH Spares.  By "complete" I mean downpipes, silencer (in U.K. 
speak) and tail pipes.  I was told they have recently changed suppliers 
from Falcon to Bell.  They said Falcon had some "quality issues" and 
Bell uses a better quality stainless steel.  I opted for their "Big 
Bore" silencer and tailpipes as I wanted a little  more aggressive sound 
than the stock system.  I also used their "super clamps" which don't 
crush the tubes like ordinary muffler clamps (in case you ever want to 
get the system apart). Smear the inlets on the silencer with high temp 
silicone (gold) before assembly and it's leak free.  Installation went 
smoothly but you do have to get the tailpipes in just the right position 
so as not to vibrate against the frame.  I know, it's hard to improve on 
the sound of a Healey but the sound of this system is food for the soul.
Dan White
1962 BN7

From dwhite4949 at wowway.com  Mon Oct  8 17:30:43 2007
From: dwhite4949 at wowway.com (Daniel and Diane White)
Date: Mon, 08 Oct 2007 19:30:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Re rear axle breather
Message-ID: <470ABDA3.7020207@wowway.com>

My 1962 BN7 MK II was built with the breather being some sort of tube 
(not threaded) pressed (I guess) into the hole in the top of the axle.  
Upon restoration I found that there was no breather assy- just the hole- 
not a good situation.  I examined the hole and found there were no 
threads so I tapped the hole to accept the threaded breather assy which 
is available. 
Dan White
1962 BN7

From mdoust at allstream.net  Mon Oct  8 17:31:09 2007
From: mdoust at allstream.net (Mark Doust)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 19:31:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Sprite Stuff needed
Message-ID: <002001c80a03$4e89ea20$6400a8c0@abarth750>

Looking for the following for a 1966 Austin Healey Sprite 
 
Original Steering wheel and horn button 
Rear bumper 
Chrome handle window winder
 
Cheers 
 
Mark 
 
Contact me at 
 
mark at abarth.ca 

From ronfineesq at earthlink.net  Mon Oct  8 17:38:30 2007
From: ronfineesq at earthlink.net (Ronald A. Fine)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 16:38:30 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Healeys] Re Brand new muffer
Message-ID: <25315851.1191886710875.JavaMail.root@elwamui-norfolk.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

I purchased a mild steel muffler from AH Spares for my BN7 which was manufactured by Bell.  I am very pleased with the quality of the muffler and the sound.
Ron

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Mon Oct  8 17:58:33 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 16:58:33 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys in France
Message-ID: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKIEFGDGAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>

Hello, Healeyphiles -
Is there anyone on the list who is in France?

Thanks,

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Mon Oct  8 20:03:03 2007
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 19:03:03 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] MGB head gasket question
Message-ID: <003201c80a18$8755a910$6501a8c0@XPS400>

Sorry to bomb the list with a MGB engine question but it is kind of a generic
engine rebuilding question.

I am ready to install my rebuild head on my 1800 MGB engine.  Both the
 head and block have been surfaced to insure they are flat.  I have the Payen
 head gasket.  I have never used this type of gasket before.  It has small
inset
copper rings around the water and oil holes.  There is still some
 depressed corrosion eroded areas around the water holes in the block with
rough
surfaces.  I am concerned that the small copper rings in the gasket might
 not be big enough to seal these holes.  Should I use some type of gasket
 sealer?   And if so, which one?

 Thanks for any advise.

 Ron Fine
 66 MGB
 61 BN7

From mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net  Mon Oct  8 20:22:43 2007
From: mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net (Mark and Kathy)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 22:22:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brand new muffler is a P.O.S.
References: <2D0989D186D44349BE853EE6CFC87AE6036120CA@glitas07.garverinc.local>
Message-ID: <000801c80a1b$5d6739e0$64cce004@markl946cfrd7q>

Jack,
     There is a Walker plant here in IN.  that has been making exhaust parts 
for years.    I  have a Walker  exhaust on my MGA and it  sounds just like 
an English sports car should sound.    I was able to write down the muffler 
part number for future replacements when needed.
    FYI,  For the first time in 3 years  I  fired up my Healey with a new 
Falcon SS exhaust from Moss, and it sounds just right for me.   After 
listening to some of the  newest  motorcycle exhaust systems at 3 oclock in 
the morning  ,  I want my listeners to appreciate my Healeys sound not 
loathe it.   I hate these new bikes,  don't get me started.  Wheres the 
noise pollution Police when you want them.

Go  Walker and support the US manufacturers,

or Falcon which sounds pretty damn Healeyish to me.

Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
To: "Austin Healey" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 9:25 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Brand new muffler is a P.O.S.


> What's the deal on "new" pre-BJ8 mufflers??  This one was mfgd. by
> Walker and it's thinner material and louder than the one I replaced.  Do
> all (or most) of the usual suppliers sell the same brand??  Is it
> Chinese??  It doesn't say so on the box.  I'm now thinking about a
> complete SS system with down pipes and everything.  Does anyone know a
> reliable source of these??  Oh yes, it's for a BT7 Mk2.  Many thanks to
> this awesome List.
>
> Jack
> _______________________________________________
> mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Oct  8 20:30:57 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 10:30:57 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] MGB head gasket question
In-Reply-To: <003201c80a18$8755a910$6501a8c0@XPS400>
References: <003201c80a18$8755a910$6501a8c0@XPS400>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0710081930k324f3ebbpa36ce24621418a46@mail.gmail.com>

Seems to me you'd be better off with a felpro gasket under the
circumstances... Better than worrying about sealant failure on the
head.  I am sure you can still get felpro gaskets for the B.


- Original message -
Sorry to bomb the list with a MGB engine question

On 10/9/07, Ron Fine <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net> wrote:
> Sorry to bomb the list with a MGB engine question but it is kind of a
> generic
> engine rebuilding question.
>
> I am ready to install my rebuild head on my 1800 MGB engine.  Both the
>  head and block have been surfaced to insure they are flat.  I have the
> Payen
>  head gasket.  I have never used this type of gasket before.  It has small
> inset
> copper rings around the water and oil holes.  There is still some
>  depressed corrosion eroded areas around the water holes in the block with
> rough
> surfaces.  I am concerned that the small copper rings in the gasket might
>  not be big enough to seal these holes.  Should I use some type of gasket
>  sealer?   And if so, which one?
>
>  Thanks for any advise.
>
>  Ron Fine
>  66 MGB
>  61 BN7
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net  Mon Oct  8 20:48:56 2007
From: mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net (Mark and Kathy)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 22:48:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] What's Needed to be Legal
Message-ID: <002b01c80a1e$ffdd02b0$64cce004@markl946cfrd7q>

I'm sure this question will very from state to state, but what are the bear
bones requirements to put a car on the street in order to do a bit of test
driving.

By this I mean do I have to get the doors , shrouds and fenders, windshield,
lights, horn, front and rear bumpers, etc. on the car?

I would like to stay within the law if possible but at this time the car only
has seats, seat belts, gauges, carpet and the essentials to make it go and
stop.  And of course it would have a plate on it.

Mark

From bluechipracing at snet.net  Mon Oct  8 21:00:50 2007
From: bluechipracing at snet.net (bluechip)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 23:00:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] What's Needed to be Legal
References: <002b01c80a1e$ffdd02b0$64cce004@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <003401c80a20$99b730d0$1f9bfea9@dell>

Tell us what state you're in....:Maybe we can help.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark and Kathy" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
To: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 10:48 PM
Subject: [Healeys] What's Needed to be Legal


> I'm sure this question will very from state to state, but what are the 
> bear
> bones requirements to put a car on the street in order to do a bit of test
> driving.
>
> By this I mean do I have to get the doors , shrouds and fenders, 
> windshield,
> lights, horn, front and rear bumpers, etc. on the car?
>
> I would like to stay within the law if possible but at this time the car 
> only
> has seats, seat belts, gauges, carpet and the essentials to make it go and
> stop.  And of course it would have a plate on it.
>
> Mark
> _______________________________________________
> bluechipracing at snet.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

From mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net  Mon Oct  8 21:16:09 2007
From: mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net (Mark and Kathy)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 23:16:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] What's Needed to be Legal
References: <002b01c80a1e$ffdd02b0$64cce004@markl946cfrd7q>
	<003401c80a20$99b730d0$1f9bfea9@dell>
Message-ID: <003b01c80a22$ce6fd320$64cce004@markl946cfrd7q>

Oh I know this ploy,  you'll show up with and trailer and tomorrow I'll be 
Healeyless.  You can't fool me.  ; )

We be over ear in the cone feelds of IN.

Thanks,  and please at least leave me one wire wheel to remember it by.

Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "bluechip" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
To: "Mark and Kathy" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>; <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 11:00 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] What's Needed to be Legal


> Tell us what state you're in....:Maybe we can help.
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Mark and Kathy" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
> To: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
> Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 10:48 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] What's Needed to be Legal
>
>
>> I'm sure this question will very from state to state, but what are the 
>> bear
>> bones requirements to put a car on the street in order to do a bit of 
>> test
>> driving.
>>
>> By this I mean do I have to get the doors , shrouds and fenders, 
>> windshield,
>> lights, horn, front and rear bumpers, etc. on the car?
>>
>> I would like to stay within the law if possible but at this time the car 
>> only
>> has seats, seat belts, gauges, carpet and the essentials to make it go 
>> and
>> stop.  And of course it would have a plate on it.
>>
>> Mark
>> _______________________________________________

From shop at justbrits.com  Mon Oct  8 21:35:16 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 22:35:16 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] What's Needed to be Legal
References: <002b01c80a1e$ffdd02b0$64cce004@markl946cfrd7q><003401c80a20$99b730d0$1f9bfea9@dell>
	<003b01c80a22$ce6fd320$64cce004@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <00af01c80a25$6925c5d0$6601a8c0@actualshop>

<<Thanks,  and please at least leave me one wire wheel to remember it by>>

Why, Mark??

Ain't youse gots 5 odders on da MGA?!?!?

<G>

From jsoderling at astound.net  Mon Oct  8 22:13:44 2007
From: jsoderling at astound.net (John Soderling)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 21:13:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Test-Please Delete
Message-ID: <000d01c80a2a$c896cf50$e3162a45@Soderling>

Test

From bighealey at charter.net  Mon Oct  8 23:10:08 2007
From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2007 22:10:08 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Sprite Stuff needed
In-Reply-To: <002001c80a03$4e89ea20$6400a8c0@abarth750>
Message-ID: <05f501c80a32$ad1842b0$1002a8c0@TRACY>

Mark,

The gal the AHCUSA is helping rebuild a new AN5 for after her unfortunate
rollover has many parts as we are working from three donor cars.  I have her
blog syndicated at
http://healey.org/index.php?option=com_newsfeeds&task=view&feedid=14&Itemid=
7

Or just go to http://healey.org Home, News Feeds, Restorations, Restoring a
Bugeye.

She will be doing away with many of the parts since she essentially has
three of each.

Cheers!

Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !
President AHCUSA              http://healey.org
VP/Events Director GGAHC      www.goldengatehealeys.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+bighealey=charter.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+bighealey=charter.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Mark Doust
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 4:31 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Sprite Stuff needed

Looking for the following for a 1966 Austin Healey Sprite

Original Steering wheel and horn button
Rear bumper
Chrome handle window winder

Cheers

Mark

Contact me at

mark at abarth.ca
_______________________________________________
bighealey at charter.net

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From integra-led at club-internet.fr  Tue Oct  9 00:50:50 2007
From: integra-led at club-internet.fr (Philippe Dubois)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 08:50:50 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys in France
In-Reply-To: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKIEFGDGAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>
Message-ID: <20071009065058.645C72560C@relay-am.club-internet.fr>

Hi Steve,

Sure they are some Healeyphiles on the list here!
What can we do for you?

Philippe Dubois
1960 BT7


-----Message d'origine-----
De : healeys-bounces+integra-led=club-internet.fr at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+integra-led=club-internet.fr at autox.team.net] De la
part de BJ8Healeys
Envoyi : mardi 9 octobre 2007 01:59
@ : healeys at autox.team.net
Objet : [Healeys] Healeys in France

Hello, Healeyphiles -
Is there anyone on the list who is in France?

Thanks,

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
_______________________________________________
integra-led at club-internet.fr

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From DavidWMalaney at eaton.com  Tue Oct  9 07:27:45 2007
From: DavidWMalaney at eaton.com (DavidWMalaney at eaton.com)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 09:27:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] New muffer
In-Reply-To: <25315851.1191886710875.JavaMail.root@elwamui-norfolk.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <D06676EE138D5B4593BE21B269CADDEE0135FEB7@CLEOHSMB03.napa.ad.etn.com>

Slight aside - According to his web site, Mike Lempert is working on
developing an exhaust system for the Healey's.  Not available yet
though.


Dave M.

From Kendall.Freese at aerojet.com  Tue Oct  9 08:20:26 2007
From: Kendall.Freese at aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 07:20:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN7 serial number stampings
Message-ID: <1B3BD9CCDD89084C9CC405C3258017F501ED40B1@SACMAIL1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

Are there any chassis serial number stampings on the frame for a BN7? I
have looked on the spring towers but not seen anything.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

From Jnhorn at aol.com  Tue Oct  9 08:41:49 2007
From: Jnhorn at aol.com (Jnhorn at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 10:41:49 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] New muffer
Message-ID: <ced.1c214b8e.343ced2d@aol.com>

If anyone is interested, I have a brand-new never-used 
still-with-labels-on-it Abarth exhaust system for a BJ8. I already have one on my BJ8 and the sound 
is great (also, the twin chrome pipes look impressive). If anyone is 
interested, contact me off list. It weighs a "ton" so shipping could be interesting.

jon einhorn
BJ8
BJ7
100-6

Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq.
Attorney & Counselor at Law
412 Orange Street
New Haven, Connecticut 06511
Tel. 203-777-3777
Fax. 203-782-1721
Jnhorn at aol.com


**************************************
 See what's new at 
http://www.aol.com

From kansl at net1plus.com  Tue Oct  9 09:37:45 2007
From: kansl at net1plus.com (Kurt Leslie)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 11:37:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 62bt7
Message-ID: <000401c80a8a$5a54f160$a5c264d0@userch6dgy3z1d>

I restored a 62bt7 about 3 years ago, quick kote was put into the gas
tank and except for rebuilding the fuel pump(original) due to new fuel
addatives, the car has run fine, except as of late, I loose fuel flow
from the tank, I have drained and flushed the tank several times, and
regularly change the fuel filter, installed between the tank and the
pump, but if the car sits for any length of time I get about 5 miles
down the road and loose fuel. Removing the filter and blowing back into
the tank with the gas cap off solves the problem instantly. Is there a
fuel screen inside the tank? Or is the tank not properly vented?   Kurt

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Tue Oct  9 09:35:08 2007
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 08:35:08 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN7 serial number stampings
References: <1B3BD9CCDD89084C9CC405C3258017F501ED40B1@SACMAIL1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
Message-ID: <003501c80a89$f9b9cd80$6501a8c0@XPS400>

I found numbers stamped on the top of the shock tower/spring tower on my 
'61BN7.  They didn't match any other numbers on the car.  They were on the 
right side tower and they didn't show up until all the paint was removed.

Ron Fine


> Are there any chassis serial number stampings on the frame for a BN7? I
> have looked on the spring towers but not seen anything.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Tue Oct  9 09:51:21 2007
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 11:51:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 62bt7
In-Reply-To: <000401c80a8a$5a54f160$a5c264d0@userch6dgy3z1d>
Message-ID: <004201c80a8c$3e500570$c02cd24a@compaq>

Hi Kurt,
Yes there is an inaccessible gauze filter on the end of the pickup pipe
inside the tank.
You have probably got a membrane of sealant acting as a non return valve
which can be a real problem when these products are used in Healey
tanks. Sorry, I can't recommend a solution other than a new tank!!


Michael Salter


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Kurt Leslie
Sent: October 9, 2007 11:38 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] 62bt7

I restored a 62bt7 about 3 years ago, quick kote was put into the gas
tank and except for rebuilding the fuel pump(original) due to new fuel
addatives, the car has run fine, except as of late, I loose fuel flow
from the tank, I have drained and flushed the tank several times, and
regularly change the fuel filter, installed between the tank and the
pump, but if the car sits for any length of time I get about 5 miles
down the road and loose fuel. Removing the filter and blowing back into
the tank with the gas cap off solves the problem instantly. Is there a
fuel screen inside the tank? Or is the tank not properly vented?   Kurt
_______________________________________________
msalter at precisionsportscar.com 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Oct  9 10:05:12 2007
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 09:05:12 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] What's Needed to be Legal
In-Reply-To: <002b01c80a1e$ffdd02b0$64cce004@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <002b01c80a1e$ffdd02b0$64cce004@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <6293C246-77EA-4F49-A49D-3AED581CD076@sbcglobal.net>

If you are looking to be totally legal then you must have all lights,  
turn signals, bumpers, windshield, etc etc

We road test cars all the time with no body panel around the small  
neighborhood behind the shop with no body panels, just the sub  
structure and  all the running gear. This way you can make sure that  
all works correctly before the body panels are in place making access  
much easier.

I have had a sheriff look at me kind of funny as he smacked his  
partner is disbelief. He never stopped me.

These are only very short road tests not on any major roads to make  
sure the gear box, brakes, rear end and other misc stuff are working  
correctly.


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Oct 8, 2007, at 7:48 PM, Mark and Kathy wrote:

> I'm sure this question will very from state to state, but what are  
> the bear
> bones requirements to put a car on the street in order to do a bit  
> of test
> driving.
>
> By this I mean do I have to get the doors , shrouds and fenders,  
> windshield,
> lights, horn, front and rear bumpers, etc. on the car?
>
> I would like to stay within the law if possible but at this time  
> the car only
> has seats, seat belts, gauges, carpet and the essentials to make it  
> go and
> stop.  And of course it would have a plate on it.
>
> Mark
> _______________________________________________
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From amalin at mac.com  Tue Oct  9 10:28:02 2007
From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 12:28:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] What's Needed to be Legal
In-Reply-To: <6293C246-77EA-4F49-A49D-3AED581CD076@sbcglobal.net>
References: <002b01c80a1e$ffdd02b0$64cce004@markl946cfrd7q>
	<6293C246-77EA-4F49-A49D-3AED581CD076@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <600C763E-2EBD-4692-BAB5-CCE0A9A19BE1@mac.com>

Don't drive it with the tunnel off unless you're nude.  I grew up in  
the country and have seen the result of unshielded PTOs where the  
farmer thought he could safely clear it and ended up catching clothes  
in the u-joint and having a body parts removed.  Not a pretty sight.

Tricarb,
Al Malin


On Oct 9, 2007, at 12:05 PM, David Nock wrote:

> If you are looking to be totally legal then you must have all lights,
> turn signals, bumpers, windshield, etc etc
>
> We road test cars all the time with no body panel around the small
> neighborhood behind the shop with no body panels, just the sub
> structure and  all the running gear. This way you can make sure that
> all works correctly before the body panels are in place making access
> much easier.
>
> I have had a sheriff look at me kind of funny as he smacked his
> partner is disbelief. He never stopped me.
>
> These are only very short road tests not on any major roads to make
> sure the gear box, brakes, rear end and other misc stuff are working
> correctly.
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> Stockton Ca 95205
> 209-948-8767
>
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
> .
> .
>
> On Oct 8, 2007, at 7:48 PM, Mark and Kathy wrote:
>
>> I'm sure this question will very from state to state, but what are
>> the bear
>> bones requirements to put a car on the street in order to do a bit
>> of test
>> driving.
>>
>> By this I mean do I have to get the doors , shrouds and fenders,
>> windshield,
>> lights, horn, front and rear bumpers, etc. on the car?
>>
>> I would like to stay within the law if possible but at this time
>> the car only
>> has seats, seat belts, gauges, carpet and the essentials to make it
>> go and
>> stop.  And of course it would have a plate on it.
>>
>> Mark
>> _______________________________________________
>> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> _______________________________________________
> amalin at mac.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From steveg at abrazosdata.com  Tue Oct  9 10:41:20 2007
From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (Steve B. Gerow)
Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2007 09:41:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] cars for sale--Los Angeles area
Message-ID: <C330FD40.2589C%steveg@abrazosdata.com>

Am passing this along for an acquaintance. No financial interest. Reply to
him directly.

Burt Bryant wrote:

I have a 100/6 that is complete but needs total restoration, alledged
rebuilt motor, rust free,.....$9,500 k  OBO
 
I have a 100/6 that is very nice,   Black Plate Ca. Car,  restored, new
paint, wiring, carpets,all new chrome bumpers always rust free,  ect.....29
k ( have a lot of $ in this one)
 
I also have a lot of BJ8 parts  motor, trans, rear, carbs,  would like to
sell the lot.  
 
I need  BJ8 project car ( see above, I have all the parts!)   Will make a
trade on project or driver.
 
Burt Bryant
626-664-4612
bhealy at peoplepc.com
-- 
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6

From quenty at ntelos.net  Tue Oct  9 12:14:39 2007
From: quenty at ntelos.net (Dave Schweninger)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 14:14:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN7 serial number stampings
In-Reply-To: <1B3BD9CCDD89084C9CC405C3258017F501ED40B1@SACMAIL1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
References: <1B3BD9CCDD89084C9CC405C3258017F501ED40B1@SACMAIL1.aerojet.gencorp.local>
Message-ID: <D947F664-248E-4351-95C9-5FEF501772B8@ntelos.net>

Ken
Look on the top of the  small triangular piece at the intersection of  
the front cross-member and the front of the spring tower and the  
frame rail. If you need a picture let me know.
I don't think this is a serial number as mine says: 1 or I  22. Which  
Doesn't fit with any of the other numbers on the car. Must be one of  
the Jensen mysteries.
Dave
BN7 II 184440

On Oct 9, 2007, at 10:20 AM, Freese, Ken wrote:

> Are there any chassis serial number stampings on the frame for a  
> BN7? I
> have looked on the spring towers but not seen anything.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> quenty at ntelos.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From Warthodson at aol.com  Wed Oct 10 06:53:26 2007
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 08:53:26 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] 62bt7
Message-ID: <c9a.1ca5ff1a.343e2546@aol.com>

A friend had a similar problem with a tank that had been coated inside. He 
found that the coating was separating from the tank. A large "sheet" of the 
coating would float up to the pick up in the tank and plug the pick up. Blowing 
back into the tank would temporarily release the coating from the pickup, but 
the problem would return after driving for a short time. It was difficult to 
determine that this was the problem because the sheet of coating was too large to 
go into the pickup tube & show up in the filter. 
Gary Hodson  
 
 
 
In a message dated 10/9/2007 10:33:20 AM Central Daylight Time, 
kansl at net1plus.com writes:

quick kote was put into the gas
tank 


 
 
In a message dated 10/9/2007 10:33:20 AM Central Daylight Time, 
kansl at net1plus.com writes:

quick kote was put into the gas
tank 





************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Oct  9 11:07:48 2007
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 10:07:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] MGB head gasket question
In-Reply-To: <003201c80a18$8755a910$6501a8c0@XPS400>
References: <003201c80a18$8755a910$6501a8c0@XPS400>
Message-ID: <10C8D05F-9485-4036-9BAC-852ECA06D339@sbcglobal.net>

This is very common on all motors. Use Permatex Copper Coat spray on  
all surfaces. The Payne set is also the best there is available.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Oct 8, 2007, at 7:03 PM, Ron Fine wrote:

> Sorry to bomb the list with a MGB engine question but it is kind of  
> a generic
> engine rebuilding question.
>
> I am ready to install my rebuild head on my 1800 MGB engine.  Both the
>  head and block have been surfaced to insure they are flat.  I have  
> the Payen
>  head gasket.  I have never used this type of gasket before.  It  
> has small
> inset
> copper rings around the water and oil holes.  There is still some
>  depressed corrosion eroded areas around the water holes in the  
> block with
> rough
> surfaces.  I am concerned that the small copper rings in the gasket  
> might
>  not be big enough to seal these holes.  Should I use some type of  
> gasket
>  sealer?   And if so, which one?
>
>  Thanks for any advise.
>
>  Ron Fine
>  66 MGB
>  61 BN7
> _______________________________________________
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Wed Oct 10 05:04:16 2007
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 07:04:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] generator rebuild
Message-ID: <470CB1B0.60703@earthlink.net>

Folks,

The manual calls for high melting point grease for the generator's front 
(drive) bearing.  To me, high temperature grease is wheel bearing grease 
for cars with disc brakes.  What's appropriate for the the generator bearing?

Bob

From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Wed Oct 10 10:09:27 2007
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 12:09:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Test please delete
Message-ID: <a06200704c332a9a0c510@[192.168.0.100]>

Test

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Tue Oct  9 22:02:35 2007
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur)
Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2007 21:02:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 62bt7
In-Reply-To: <004201c80a8c$3e500570$c02cd24a@compaq>
References: <000401c80a8a$5a54f160$a5c264d0@userch6dgy3z1d>
	<004201c80a8c$3e500570$c02cd24a@compaq>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20071009205535.02860dd0@pop.att.yahoo.com>

Kurt,

You can remove the tank and drill down thought the angled fitting (I 
filled my tank with water before doing this). Then you can push a 
coat hanger or other stiff wire through the hole and punch out the 
wire filter. To patch it, tap the hole (1/4:20 worked for me) to 
accept a brass machine screw. Then you can solder that in place and 
file it flat. It is hardly noticeable when competed. I would 
recommend that you place a fuel filter in between the tank and gas 
pump should you go this route.

John
Been there ...

At 11:51 AM 10/9/2007 -0400, Michael Salter wrote:
>Hi Kurt,
>..... Sorry, I can't recommend a solution other than a new tank!!
>
>Michael Salter
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net
>[mailto:healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net]
>On Behalf Of Kurt Leslie
>Sent: October 9, 2007 11:38 AM
>To: healeys at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Healeys] 62bt7
>
>..... Is there a fuel screen inside the tank? Or is the tank not 
>properly vented?   Kurt
>_______________________________________________

From amalin at mac.com  Tue Oct  9 15:40:56 2007
From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 17:40:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] What's Needed to be Legal
In-Reply-To: <6293C246-77EA-4F49-A49D-3AED581CD076@sbcglobal.net>
References: <002b01c80a1e$ffdd02b0$64cce004@markl946cfrd7q>
	<6293C246-77EA-4F49-A49D-3AED581CD076@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <600F022F-2725-428F-A53D-A0485AD59C66@mac.com>

Don't drive it with the tunnel off unless you're nude.  I've seen the  
result of unshielded PTOs where a farmer thought he could safely  
clear it and ended up catching clothes in the u-joint and having body  
parts removed.

Tricarb,
Al Malin



On Oct 9, 2007, at 12:05 PM, David Nock wrote:

> If you are looking to be totally legal then you must have all lights,
> turn signals, bumpers, windshield, etc etc
>
> We road test cars all the time with no body panel around the small
> neighborhood behind the shop with no body panels, just the sub
> structure and  all the running gear. This way you can make sure that
> all works correctly before the body panels are in place making access
> much easier.
>
> I have had a sheriff look at me kind of funny as he smacked his
> partner is disbelief. He never stopped me.
>
> These are only very short road tests not on any major roads to make
> sure the gear box, brakes, rear end and other misc stuff are working
> correctly.
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> Stockton Ca 95205
> 209-948-8767
>
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
> .
> .
>
> On Oct 8, 2007, at 7:48 PM, Mark and Kathy wrote:
>
>> I'm sure this question will very from state to state, but what are
>> the bear
>> bones requirements to put a car on the street in order to do a bit
>> of test
>> driving.
>>
>> By this I mean do I have to get the doors , shrouds and fenders,
>> windshield,
>> lights, horn, front and rear bumpers, etc. on the car?
>>
>> I would like to stay within the law if possible but at this time
>> the car only
>> has seats, seat belts, gauges, carpet and the essentials to make it
>> go and
>> stop.  And of course it would have a plate on it.
>>
>> Mark
>> _______________________________________________
>> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> _______________________________________________
> amalin at mac.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From rkorn at simnet.is  Wed Oct 10 08:51:31 2007
From: rkorn at simnet.is (Richard Korn)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 14:51:31 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys in Berlin
Message-ID: <005201c80b4d$0bb2be70$4001a8c0@velad>

Guten tag Healeyphiles,

Does anyone know of any Healey 1004s in Berlin?

I4m on tour with the symphony the first week of november and have 2 days off
to roam around the city.

Thanks,

Richard Korn
BN2

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Wed Oct 10 10:53:38 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (sbyers at ec.rr.com)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 12:53:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys in Berlin
Message-ID: <14375193.1890201192035218535.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web16-z01>

Hi, Richard -
I don't know about 100-4s, but you might try connecting with the German A-H Club to see if they can hook you up with 100-4 owners:   http://www.ahcg.de, or maybe one of our German listers can do the honors.

An interesting thing:  I have 271 BJ8s listed in the BJ8 registry from Germany, but only one of those is in Berlin.  Whoulda thunk it?

Have a great trip!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA
---- Richard Korn <rkorn at simnet.is> wrote: 
> Guten tag Healeyphiles,
> 
> Does anyone know of any Healey 1004s in Berlin?
> 
> I4m on tour with the symphony the first week of november and have 2 days off
> to roam around the city.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Richard Korn
> BN2
> _______________________________________________
> sbyers at ec.rr.com 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Tue Oct  9 19:19:16 2007
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 21:19:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Camshaft removal and oil pump
Message-ID: <a06200700c331d79340f8@[192.168.0.100]>

I think I've noticed another error in the Haynes manual; my reading 
of the cam removal procedure in the workshop manual starts with the 
removal of the sump and oil pump, and goes on to mention the timing 
gears, distributor drive etc.  But the Haynes manual doesn't mention 
the oil pump- Surely, one must disengage the oil pump before being 
able to withdraw the camshaft?

Stephen, BJ8

From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Tue Oct  9 19:24:58 2007
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 21:24:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Undoing the crank nut
Message-ID: <a06200701c331d92da103@[192.168.0.100]>

With the engine out of the car, it's a bit of a challenge to undo the 
crank nut without the engine turning- I'm thinking of making a 
bracket that would hold the clutch to the back plate, but my friend 
has offered to come by with air tools.  Anyone have another trick for 
this if I get impatient?

Stephen, BJ8

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Wed Oct 10 11:40:16 2007
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 17:40:16 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Undoing the crank nut
In-Reply-To: <a06200701c331d92da103@[192.168.0.100]>
References: <a06200701c331d92da103@[192.168.0.100]>
Message-ID: <BAY108-W39FBB626D50EFFBF78170FC0A60@phx.gbl>

Take any old valve, intake or exhaust, heat the stem and bend it 90 degrees.
Put the stem through one of the holes in the engine plate and the head into
one of the slots on the ring gear. Voila!   Richard Mayor
> Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 21:24:58 -0400> To: healeys at autox.team.net> From:
s.hutchings at rogers.com> Subject: [Healeys] Undoing the crank nut> > With the
engine out of the car, it's a bit of a challenge to undo the > crank nut
without the engine turning- I'm thinking of making a > bracket that would hold
the clutch to the back plate, but my friend > has offered to come by with air
tools. Anyone have another trick for > this if I get impatient?> > Stephen,
BJ8> _______________________________________________> mayorrichard at hotmail.com
> > Healeys at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
_________________________________________________________________
Boo! Scare away worms, viruses and so much more! Try Windows Live OneCare!
http://onecare.live.com/standard/en-us/purchase/trial.aspx?s_cid=wl_hotmailne
ws

From bluechipracing at snet.net  Wed Oct 10 12:32:21 2007
From: bluechipracing at snet.net (bluechip)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 14:32:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Undoing the crank nut
References: <a06200701c331d92da103@[192.168.0.100]>
Message-ID: <004101c80b6b$e59c96b0$1f9bfea9@dell>

Stephen:   A short 6"-12" length of steel chain, one end bolted to the 
flywheel, the other end bolted to the engine back plate.  Works well for me 
every time.

Jim Smith



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 9:24 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Undoing the crank nut


> With the engine out of the car, it's a bit of a challenge to undo the
> crank nut without the engine turning- I'm thinking of making a
> bracket that would hold the clutch to the back plate, but my friend
> has offered to come by with air tools.  Anyone have another trick for
> this if I get impatient?
>
> Stephen, BJ8
> _______________________________________________

From ronfineesq at earthlink.net  Wed Oct 10 12:33:55 2007
From: ronfineesq at earthlink.net (Ronald A. Fine)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 11:33:55 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Healeys] Undoing the crank nut
Message-ID: <28196872.1192041236484.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

One old trick which read about and used recently is to remove the spark plugs and take a long piece of rope and feed it into one of the cylinders that is moving up on its compression stroke, filling the cylinder.  Make sure you have the correct cylinder because you don't want either valve to be open.  Be sure to keep a tail out so you can remove it later.  Then gently rotate the crank until that cylinder rises to compress the rope. It will eventually stop and you can remove the nut.
It worked for me.
Ron

From dan at warner-associates.com  Tue Oct  9 11:02:18 2007
From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 12:02:18 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
Message-ID: <001601c80a96$263f8b90$3500000a@warner.com>

Test-Sorry guys

From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Wed Oct 10 13:10:51 2007
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 15:10:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Undoing the crank nut
Message-ID: <a06200707c332d2ba5851@[192.168.0.100]>

Thanks for the variety of suggestions It's always interesting to see 
the differnt solutions that people come up with for the same problem!

Stephen, BJ8

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Oct 10 13:13:37 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 14:13:37 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Undoing the crank nut
References: <a06200701c331d92da103@[192.168.0.100]>
Message-ID: <112301c80b71$a9af0a10$6601a8c0@actualshop>

<<it's a bit of a challenge to undo the
crank nut without the engine turning>>

Not with the RIGHT tool, Stephen!!!

Every body that wants to do engine/clutch work should have one.  Altho this
one
http://tinyurl.com/2kywyp is a bitsteep, Northern Tools, SK, etc. should have
for less.

Ed

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Wed Oct 10 13:22:21 2007
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 15:22:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Undoing the crank nut
References: <a06200707c332d2ba5851@[192.168.0.100]>
Message-ID: <044501c80b72$e1b93dd0$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>

Stephen,

Once the locking tab of the washer is flattened, your friend's air impact 
gun should remove the nut with no problem.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 3:10 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Undoing the crank nut


> Thanks for the variety of suggestions It's always interesting to see
> the differnt solutions that people come up with for the same problem!
>
> Stephen, BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From quenty at ntelos.net  Wed Oct 10 13:23:38 2007
From: quenty at ntelos.net (Dave Schweninger)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 15:23:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Frame number and serial number
In-Reply-To: <470CFC6A.6070803@wowway.com>
References: <470CFC6A.6070803@wowway.com>
Message-ID: <E523D4C5-0376-4BE8-A5E8-6F06DE7A5D30@ntelos.net>

Dan
My serial # is 18440 (actually the Car/Chassis Number) The body # is  
19087. The build date is
13 - 14 March 1962. Delivered to Los Angeles.
BN7 18441 is unknown. BN7 18442  Delivered to VIC.  BN7 18444 went to  
NY. It appears that our cars came down the line no more two cars apart.
The above info came from the Bill Bolton Tri-carb Registry, Circa  
1992. I have requested a more up to date list, but no response. You  
should send him your personnel information and a copy of your  
Heritage Certificate. You can Email him at tricarb at aol.com
Best
Dave

On Oct 10, 2007, at 12:23 PM, Daniel and Diane White wrote:

> Dave,
> I noticed in your  reply that your serial number is very close to  
> the serial number of my 1962 BN7 MK II.  My serial number is   
> 18443. Is your number 18440 or 184440?
> My build date(s) are 13-16 March 1962 as shown on my Heritage Trust  
> Certificate.  Attached is a photo of the number stamped on my frame  
> (120) which is very close to your number if yours is 1 and not I 22.
> I wonder if our cars came down the line together.  I also wonder if  
> they took a frame out of sequence (if they were numbered in  
> sequence)?  My car was shipped to L.A.  Do you know where yours was  
> shipped to?
> Regards,  Dan
> <Chassis ID 4.JPG>

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Wed Oct 10 13:55:02 2007
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 15:55:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Frame number and serial number
In-Reply-To: <E523D4C5-0376-4BE8-A5E8-6F06DE7A5D30@ntelos.net>
References: <470CFC6A.6070803@wowway.com>
	<E523D4C5-0376-4BE8-A5E8-6F06DE7A5D30@ntelos.net>
Message-ID: <2FF22CAC-440C-4E27-9783-806CB4CDCFEC@gmail.com>

It's always interesting (and confusing) how the numbers and build  
dates run.

My BN7 18014 was built 20 - 22 March, 1962. Body #19117.

So my car has an earlier serial #, later body number & later build  
date. How is this explained?

Randy

Randy Hicks
'56 100M
'60 BN7 MkI
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com



On Oct 10, 2007, at 3:23 PM, Dave Schweninger wrote:

> Dan
> My serial # is 18440 (actually the Car/Chassis Number) The body # is
> 19087. The build date is
> 13 - 14 March 1962. Delivered to Los Angeles.
> BN7 18441 is unknown. BN7 18442  Delivered to VIC.  BN7 18444 went to
> NY. It appears that our cars came down the line no more two cars  
> apart.
> The above info came from the Bill Bolton Tri-carb Registry, Circa
> 1992. I have requested a more up to date list, but no response. You
> should send him your personnel information and a copy of your
> Heritage Certificate. You can Email him at tricarb at aol.com
> Best
> Dave
>
> On Oct 10, 2007, at 12:23 PM, Daniel and Diane White wrote:
>
>> Dave,
>> I noticed in your  reply that your serial number is very close to
>> the serial number of my 1962 BN7 MK II.  My serial number is
>> 18443. Is your number 18440 or 184440?
>> My build date(s) are 13-16 March 1962 as shown on my Heritage Trust
>> Certificate.  Attached is a photo of the number stamped on my frame
>> (120) which is very close to your number if yours is 1 and not I 22.
>> I wonder if our cars came down the line together.  I also wonder if
>> they took a frame out of sequence (if they were numbered in
>> sequence)?  My car was shipped to L.A.  Do you know where yours was
>> shipped to?
>> Regards,  Dan
>> <Chassis ID 4.JPG>

From bluechipracing at snet.net  Wed Oct 10 14:21:04 2007
From: bluechipracing at snet.net (bluechip)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 16:21:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Frame number and serial number
References: <470CFC6A.6070803@wowway.com><E523D4C5-0376-4BE8-A5E8-6F06DE7A5D30@ntelos.net>
	<2FF22CAC-440C-4E27-9783-806CB4CDCFEC@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <005101c80b7b$15d199c0$1f9bfea9@dell>

Maybe there are no Heritage records....Just some guy making up stuff, 
printing out certificates and pocketing the money?

<(.?.)>

Jim


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randy Hicks" <Healey100M at gmail.com>
To: "Dave Schweninger" <quenty at ntelos.net>
Cc: "Healeys at Autox" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 3:55 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Frame number and serial number


> It's always interesting (and confusing) how the numbers and build
> dates run.
>
> My BN7 18014 was built 20 - 22 March, 1962. Body #19117.
>
> So my car has an earlier serial #, later body number & later build
> date. How is this explained?
>
> Randy
>
> Randy Hicks
> '56 100M
> '60 BN7 MkI
> '62 BN7 MkII
> '65 BJ8
> '53 MGTD
> Healey100M at gmail.com

From rvmaylor at shaw.ca  Wed Oct 10 15:30:23 2007
From: rvmaylor at shaw.ca (Ross Maylor)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 14:30:23 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey SR Lemans 1968
Message-ID: <001001c80b84$c449d220$0301000a@Geology1>

Hi all,
This car has come up for discussion previously on the list.
It is currently for sale. No idea of price.
See page 4
http://www.vdvgrant.be/sale.php

Cheers
Ross Maylor

From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk  Wed Oct 10 14:53:36 2007
From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 21:53:36 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Undoing the crank nut
In-Reply-To: <a06200701c331d92da103@[192.168.0.100]>
References: <a06200701c331d92da103@[192.168.0.100]>
Message-ID: <ZFe3HPJQvTDHFwtl@jharper.demon.co.uk>

Stephen

The official recommended tool for this is a heavy ring spanner with 
large flats on the non ring end. This is then to be stuck with a heavy 
hammer. The friction and inertia of the engine; even with the head off 
is enough the hold the crank still whilst the nut undoes.

In emergency a very heavy adjustable spanner screwed up tight and a 
heavy hammer will often do the trick so long as the spanner is heavy 
enough to survive this sort of treatment.

Regards

>With the engine out of the car, it's a bit of a challenge to undo the
>crank nut without the engine turning- I'm thinking of making a
>bracket that would hold the clutch to the back plate, but my friend
>has offered to come by with air tools.  Anyone have another trick for
>this if I get impatient?
>
>Stephen, BJ8
>_______________________________________________
>ah at jharper.demon.co.uk
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

-- 
John Harper

From Wilkmanracing at aol.com  Wed Oct 10 15:12:48 2007
From: Wilkmanracing at aol.com (Wilkmanracing at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 17:12:48 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 Trunk/Boot
Message-ID: <c43.1b7cf969.343e9a50@aol.com>

I'm in the process of stripping my BT7 down for body work corrections and a  
fresh paint job.  The trunk had about a ton and a half of Bondo on it,  hiding 
a previous shunt.  I'm considering buying a new trunk lid rather  than trying 
to work with what I have.  Moss has a repro lid for about a  grand, which 
seems a little pricey.  Does anyone know of a good source for  this part?  I'd 
consider a good used part if any listers know where one can  be found.  My main 
concern is to obtain a trunk lid that fits.
 
Thanks.
 
Bill Wilkman



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From ecsaustralia at bigpond.com  Wed Oct 10 15:23:29 2007
From: ecsaustralia at bigpond.com (Bill Shipton)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 14:23:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Replacement chassis ID plate question
Message-ID: <470D42D1.2040509@bigpond.com>

Hi all,

I am wanting to replace the chassis ID plate on my 1958 BN6. There seems 
to be two types of aftermarket replacement chassis ID plates
available, from what I can see, for my era car:

Type 1: Rectangular, black and silver, without a silver border (the one 
that's on there now, clearly an aftermarket replacement)
Type 2: Same as type 1, but with a silver border (as per the original ID 
plate on my BN7)

I'm assuming that the correct plate is type 2, as every photo I've ever 
seen of BN6/BN7 original  chassis ID plates were of type 2 - but the 
only plates
that vendors seem to stock now are type 1....

Can any of you Healey gurus help me out here as to:

1. Confirming which is the correct original style chassis ID plate?

 and assuming type 2 is correct for my car -

2. Who stocks the type 2 chassis ID plate?


Thanks,


Bill.

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Wed Oct 10 15:44:57 2007
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 17:44:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Frame number and serial number
References: <470CFC6A.6070803@wowway.com><E523D4C5-0376-4BE8-A5E8-6F06DE7A5D30@ntelos.net>
	<2FF22CAC-440C-4E27-9783-806CB4CDCFEC@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000c01c80b86$cd2953a0$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>

Healeys always came over from Jensens (where the bodies had been fitted, 
assembled and painted, and by the time of the early 3000 roadsters, 
partially trimmed as well) to Longbridge, and later (after October'57) to 
Abingdon in transporter loads, first on was last off, etc. So it was very 
easy to have the cars numbers vs. build dates somewhat out of sequence. In 
addition if there was any sort of delay for corrections, fitting problems, 
etc. the car was brought aside and sent to the appropriate rectiication 
areas, further placing it out of sequence. Everything was hand pushed on the 
tracks, there were no robotics, just small hoists, etc. workers stood at 
stations to install various components, and everything was very much a hands 
on operation.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randy Hicks" <Healey100M at gmail.com>
To: "Dave Schweninger" <quenty at ntelos.net>
Cc: "Healeys at Autox" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 3:55 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Frame number and serial number


> It's always interesting (and confusing) how the numbers and build
> dates run.
>
> My BN7 18014 was built 20 - 22 March, 1962. Body #19117.
>
> So my car has an earlier serial #, later body number & later build
> date. How is this explained?
>
> Randy
>
> Randy Hicks
> '56 100M
> '60 BN7 MkI
> '62 BN7 MkII
> '65 BJ8
> '53 MGTD
> Healey100M at gmail.com
>
>
>
> On Oct 10, 2007, at 3:23 PM, Dave Schweninger wrote:
>
>> Dan
>> My serial # is 18440 (actually the Car/Chassis Number) The body # is
>> 19087. The build date is
>> 13 - 14 March 1962. Delivered to Los Angeles.
>> BN7 18441 is unknown. BN7 18442  Delivered to VIC.  BN7 18444 went to
>> NY. It appears that our cars came down the line no more two cars
>> apart.
>> The above info came from the Bill Bolton Tri-carb Registry, Circa
>> 1992. I have requested a more up to date list, but no response. You
>> should send him your personnel information and a copy of your
>> Heritage Certificate. You can Email him at tricarb at aol.com
>> Best
>> Dave
>>
>> On Oct 10, 2007, at 12:23 PM, Daniel and Diane White wrote:
>>
>>> Dave,
>>> I noticed in your  reply that your serial number is very close to
>>> the serial number of my 1962 BN7 MK II.  My serial number is
>>> 18443. Is your number 18440 or 184440?
>>> My build date(s) are 13-16 March 1962 as shown on my Heritage Trust
>>> Certificate.  Attached is a photo of the number stamped on my frame
>>> (120) which is very close to your number if yours is 1 and not I 22.
>>> I wonder if our cars came down the line together.  I also wonder if
>>> they took a frame out of sequence (if they were numbered in
>>> sequence)?  My car was shipped to L.A.  Do you know where yours was
>>> shipped to?
>>> Regards,  Dan
>>> <Chassis ID 4.JPG>
> _______________________________________________
> richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From JNBrashear at garverengineers.com  Wed Oct 10 15:56:04 2007
From: JNBrashear at garverengineers.com (Brashear, Jack, N)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 16:56:04 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 Trunk/Boot
In-Reply-To: <c43.1b7cf969.343e9a50@aol.com>
Message-ID: <2D0989D186D44349BE853EE6CFC87AE603612A60@glitas07.garverinc.local>

Bill, find a straight used one if you can.  Aftermarket repros of most
body parts will almost surely not fit...at least that has been my
experience.  Even a good used one may be difficult to fit if your car
has been crunched.
Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+jnbrashear=garverengineers.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+jnbrashear=garverengineers.com at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Wilkmanracing at aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 4:13 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 Trunk/Boot

I'm in the process of stripping my BT7 down for body work corrections
and a
fresh paint job.  The trunk had about a ton and a half of Bondo on it,
hiding
a previous shunt.  I'm considering buying a new trunk lid rather  than
trying
to work with what I have.  Moss has a repro lid for about a  grand,
which
seems a little pricey.  Does anyone know of a good source for  this
part?  I'd
consider a good used part if any listers know where one can  be found.
My main
concern is to obtain a trunk lid that fits.

Thanks.

Bill Wilkman

From hcdodson at sbcglobal.net  Wed Oct 10 16:05:01 2007
From: hcdodson at sbcglobal.net (hcdodson)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 15:05:01 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Frame number and serial number
References: <470CFC6A.6070803@wowway.com><E523D4C5-0376-4BE8-A5E8-6F06DE7A5D30@ntelos.net>
	<2FF22CAC-440C-4E27-9783-806CB4CDCFEC@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001a01c80b89$9bd10110$4001a8c0@HANKS>

Here is some more confusion on serial #s,

My BN7 is #18436, body # 19110, it was built 19-21 March 1962 and sent to 
Chicago on 11 April 1962.

Hank Dodson
'62 BN7 MK II

> It's always interesting (and confusing) how the numbers and build
> dates run.
>
> My BN7 18014 was built 20 - 22 March, 1962. Body #19117.
>
> So my car has an earlier serial #, later body number & later build
> date. How is this explained?
>
> Randy
>
> Randy Hicks
> '56 100M
> '60 BN7 MkI
> '62 BN7 MkII
> '65 BJ8
> '53 MGTD
> Healey100M at gmail.com
>
>
>
> On Oct 10, 2007, at 3:23 PM, Dave Schweninger wrote:
>
>> Dan
>> My serial # is 18440 (actually the Car/Chassis Number) The body # is
>> 19087. The build date is
>> 13 - 14 March 1962. Delivered to Los Angeles.
>> BN7 18441 is unknown. BN7 18442  Delivered to VIC.  BN7 18444 went to
>> NY. It appears that our cars came down the line no more two cars
>> apart.
>> The above info came from the Bill Bolton Tri-carb Registry, Circa
>> 1992. I have requested a more up to date list, but no response. You
>> should send him your personnel information and a copy of your
>> Heritage Certificate. You can Email him at tricarb at aol.com
>> Best
>> Dave
>>
>> On Oct 10, 2007, at 12:23 PM, Daniel and Diane White wrote:
>>
>>> Dave,
>>> I noticed in your  reply that your serial number is very close to
>>> the serial number of my 1962 BN7 MK II.  My serial number is
>>> 18443. Is your number 18440 or 184440?
>>> My build date(s) are 13-16 March 1962 as shown on my Heritage Trust
>>> Certificate.  Attached is a photo of the number stamped on my frame
>>> (120) which is very close to your number if yours is 1 and not I 22.
>>> I wonder if our cars came down the line together.  I also wonder if
>>> they took a frame out of sequence (if they were numbered in
>>> sequence)?  My car was shipped to L.A.  Do you know where yours was
>>> shipped to?
>>> Regards,  Dan

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Wed Oct 10 16:11:08 2007
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 18:11:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Frame number and serial number
In-Reply-To: <001a01c80b89$9bd10110$4001a8c0@HANKS>
References: <470CFC6A.6070803@wowway.com><E523D4C5-0376-4BE8-A5E8-6F06DE7A5D30@ntelos.net>
	<2FF22CAC-440C-4E27-9783-806CB4CDCFEC@gmail.com>
	<001a01c80b89$9bd10110$4001a8c0@HANKS>
Message-ID: <BC0305B3-14CB-42D3-A36A-E1430CBB7918@gmail.com>

At least our 2 BN7's went to Chicago together on April 11, 1962!

:-)

Randy

Randy Hicks
'56 100M
'60 BN7 MkI
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com



On Oct 10, 2007, at 6:05 PM, hcdodson wrote:

> Here is some more confusion on serial #s,
>
> My BN7 is #18436, body # 19110, it was built 19-21 March 1962 and  
> sent to Chicago on 11 April 1962.
>
> Hank Dodson
> '62 BN7 MK II
>
>> It's always interesting (and confusing) how the numbers and build
>> dates run.
>>
>> My BN7 18014 was built 20 - 22 March, 1962. Body #19117.
>>
>> So my car has an earlier serial #, later body number & later build
>> date. How is this explained?
>>
>> Randy
>>
>> Randy Hicks
>> '56 100M
>> '60 BN7 MkI
>> '62 BN7 MkII
>> '65 BJ8
>> '53 MGTD
>> Healey100M at gmail.com
>>
>>
>>
>> On Oct 10, 2007, at 3:23 PM, Dave Schweninger wrote:
>>
>>> Dan
>>> My serial # is 18440 (actually the Car/Chassis Number) The body # is
>>> 19087. The build date is
>>> 13 - 14 March 1962. Delivered to Los Angeles.
>>> BN7 18441 is unknown. BN7 18442  Delivered to VIC.  BN7 18444  
>>> went to
>>> NY. It appears that our cars came down the line no more two cars
>>> apart.
>>> The above info came from the Bill Bolton Tri-carb Registry, Circa
>>> 1992. I have requested a more up to date list, but no response. You
>>> should send him your personnel information and a copy of your
>>> Heritage Certificate. You can Email him at tricarb at aol.com
>>> Best
>>> Dave
>>>
>>> On Oct 10, 2007, at 12:23 PM, Daniel and Diane White wrote:
>>>
>>>> Dave,
>>>> I noticed in your  reply that your serial number is very close to
>>>> the serial number of my 1962 BN7 MK II.  My serial number is
>>>> 18443. Is your number 18440 or 184440?
>>>> My build date(s) are 13-16 March 1962 as shown on my Heritage Trust
>>>> Certificate.  Attached is a photo of the number stamped on my frame
>>>> (120) which is very close to your number if yours is 1 and not I  
>>>> 22.
>>>> I wonder if our cars came down the line together.  I also wonder if
>>>> they took a frame out of sequence (if they were numbered in
>>>> sequence)?  My car was shipped to L.A.  Do you know where yours was
>>>> shipped to?
>>>> Regards,  Dan

From hstandfa at iinet.net.au  Wed Oct 10 16:18:18 2007
From: hstandfa at iinet.net.au (Noel Standfast)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 08:18:18 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 rear disc conversion
Message-ID: <470D4FAA.1000301@iinet.net.au>

Hi all

I have a mate who is restoring a BJ7 and as he is not on the net I am 
seeking some help for him.  He is trying to install the Dennis Welch 
rear disc brake conversion.  Does anyone have a digital photo of how the 
brake compensator and rod is set up?  When we dummy up the short brake 
rod to the XJ6 caliper, the angle of the dangle seems all wrong and we 
can't see how the rod can pull the hand brake lever effectively.  Does 
the rod get modified or bent?  Any suggestions or photos greatly appreciated

Noel Standfast
AHOC of Qld

From bluechipracing at snet.net  Wed Oct 10 16:46:09 2007
From: bluechipracing at snet.net (bluechip)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 18:46:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 rear disc conversion
References: <470D4FAA.1000301@iinet.net.au>
Message-ID: <001001c80b8f$5a566760$1f9bfea9@dell>

Hi Noel:   I have found the folks at DW generally responsive to questions 
from customers about their products.  Send them an email or give them a 
phone call.

Jim Smith


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Noel Standfast" <hstandfa at iinet.net.au>
To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 6:18 PM
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 rear disc conversion


> Hi all
>
> I have a mate who is restoring a BJ7 and as he is not on the net I am
> seeking some help for him.  He is trying to install the Dennis Welch
> rear disc brake conversion.  Does anyone have a digital photo of how the
> brake compensator and rod is set up?  When we dummy up the short brake
> rod to the XJ6 caliper, the angle of the dangle seems all wrong and we
> can't see how the rod can pull the hand brake lever effectively.  Does
> the rod get modified or bent?  Any suggestions or photos greatly 
> appreciated
>
> Noel Standfast
> AHOC of Qld
> _______________________________________________
> bluechipracing at snet.net

From hcdodson at sbcglobal.net  Wed Oct 10 16:53:10 2007
From: hcdodson at sbcglobal.net (hcdodson)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 15:53:10 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Frame number and serial number
References: <470CFC6A.6070803@wowway.com><E523D4C5-0376-4BE8-A5E8-6F06DE7A5D30@ntelos.net>
	<2FF22CAC-440C-4E27-9783-806CB4CDCFEC@gmail.com>
	<001a01c80b89$9bd10110$4001a8c0@HANKS>
	<BC0305B3-14CB-42D3-A36A-E1430CBB7918@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003d01c80b90$56156ce0$4001a8c0@HANKS>

Randy,

Yours must have been one of those sent back for corrections..

Hank


> At least our 2 BN7's went to Chicago together on April 11, 1962!
> 
> :-)
> 
> Randy
> 
> Randy Hicks
> '56 100M
> '60 BN7 MkI
> '62 BN7 MkII
> '65 BJ8
> '53 MGTD
> Healey100M at gmail.com
> 
> 
> 
> On Oct 10, 2007, at 6:05 PM, hcdodson wrote:
> 
>> Here is some more confusion on serial #s,
>>
>> My BN7 is #18436, body # 19110, it was built 19-21 March 1962 and  
>> sent to Chicago on 11 April 1962.
>>
>> Hank Dodson
>> '62 BN7 MK II
>>
>>> It's always interesting (and confusing) how the numbers and build
>>> dates run.
>>>
>>> My BN7 18014 was built 20 - 22 March, 1962. Body #19117.
>>>
>>> So my car has an earlier serial #, later body number & later build
>>> date. How is this explained?
>>>
>>> Randy
>>>
>>> Randy Hicks
>>> '56 100M
>>> '60 BN7 MkI
>>> '62 BN7 MkII
>>> '65 BJ8
>>> '53 MGTD
>>> Healey100M at gmail.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Oct 10, 2007, at 3:23 PM, Dave Schweninger wrote:
>>>
>>>> Dan
>>>> My serial # is 18440 (actually the Car/Chassis Number) The body # is
>>>> 19087. The build date is
>>>> 13 - 14 March 1962. Delivered to Los Angeles.
>>>> BN7 18441 is unknown. BN7 18442  Delivered to VIC.  BN7 18444  
>>>> went to
>>>> NY. It appears that our cars came down the line no more two cars
>>>> apart.
>>>> The above info came from the Bill Bolton Tri-carb Registry, Circa
>>>> 1992. I have requested a more up to date list, but no response. You
>>>> should send him your personnel information and a copy of your
>>>> Heritage Certificate. You can Email him at tricarb at aol.com
>>>> Best
>>>> Dave
>>>>
>>>> On Oct 10, 2007, at 12:23 PM, Daniel and Diane White wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Dave,
>>>>> I noticed in your  reply that your serial number is very close to
>>>>> the serial number of my 1962 BN7 MK II.  My serial number is
>>>>> 18443. Is your number 18440 or 184440?
>>>>> My build date(s) are 13-16 March 1962 as shown on my Heritage Trust
>>>>> Certificate.  Attached is a photo of the number stamped on my frame
>>>>> (120) which is very close to your number if yours is 1 and not I  
>>>>> 22.
>>>>> I wonder if our cars came down the line together.  I also wonder if
>>>>> they took a frame out of sequence (if they were numbered in
>>>>> sequence)?  My car was shipped to L.A.  Do you know where yours was
>>>>> shipped to?
>>>>> Regards,  Dan

From dwhite4949 at wowway.com  Wed Oct 10 17:07:19 2007
From: dwhite4949 at wowway.com (Daniel and Diane White)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 19:07:19 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BT7Trunk/Boot
Message-ID: <470D5B27.8030908@wowway.com>

Bill,
I got a new trunk lid recently from British Car Specialists and it fits 
fine in all respects.
Dan White
1962 BN7 Mk II

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Oct 10 17:18:52 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 07:18:52 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 rear disc conversion
In-Reply-To: <470D4FAA.1000301@iinet.net.au>
References: <470D4FAA.1000301@iinet.net.au>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0710101618t3d704ba2g5323aca69ad79b13@mail.gmail.com>

Noel -

You are better off bypassing the XJ6 hand brake lever connection on
the manual caliper and running a straight rod from the healey balance
lever to the caliper's lever - you'll have to drill a hole in the
caliper's lever on the flat portion of the lever for the connection..

If you use the XJ6's connection you won't have enough lever pressure
to lock up the hand brake because the XJ6 lever is designed to work
with a much longer balance lever than the healey balance lever.

Good luck -

Alan

- Original message -
Hi all I have a mate who is restoring a BJ7 and as he

On 10/11/07, Noel Standfast <hstandfa at iinet.net.au> wrote:
> Hi all
>
> I have a mate who is restoring a BJ7 and as he is not on the net I am
> seeking some help for him.  He is trying to install the Dennis Welch
> rear disc brake conversion.  Does anyone have a digital photo of how the
> brake compensator and rod is set up?  When we dummy up the short brake
> rod to the XJ6 caliper, the angle of the dangle seems all wrong and we
> can't see how the rod can pull the hand brake lever effectively.  Does
> the rod get modified or bent?  Any suggestions or photos greatly appreciated
>
> Noel Standfast
> AHOC of Qld
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Wed Oct 10 17:30:06 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 16:30:06 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Frame number and serial number
In-Reply-To: <E523D4C5-0376-4BE8-A5E8-6F06DE7A5D30@ntelos.net>
Message-ID: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKIEGADGAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>

Hello, Healeyphiles -

Don't know about other models, but would assume the same is true as for
BJ8s:  the cars did not necessarily come down the assembly line in numerical
sequence.   Just to pick a random example:

Build dates for HBJ8L/26748 were 10 - 25 June 1964.
Build dates for HBJ8L/26759 were 30 April - 1 May 1964.

Another interesting question is how the numbers were assigned.  Was anyone
at the factory concerned that car number X was to be a red one, ?  If Jensen
stamped the VIN into the shock tower and they also painted the chassis, did
Jensen determine that car X was to be a red one, or did someone at BMC?

Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
Dave Schweninger
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 12:24 PM
To: Daniel and Diane White
Cc: Healeys at Autox
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Frame number and serial number


Dan
My serial # is 18440 (actually the Car/Chassis Number) The body # is
19087. The build date is
13 - 14 March 1962. Delivered to Los Angeles.
BN7 18441 is unknown. BN7 18442  Delivered to VIC.  BN7 18444 went to
NY. It appears that our cars came down the line no more two cars apart.
The above info came from the Bill Bolton Tri-carb Registry, Circa
1992. I have requested a more up to date list, but no response. You
should send him your personnel information and a copy of your
Heritage Certificate. You can Email him at tricarb at aol.com
Best
Dave

On Oct 10, 2007, at 12:23 PM, Daniel and Diane White wrote:

> Dave,
> I noticed in your  reply that your serial number is very close to
> the serial number of my 1962 BN7 MK II.  My serial number is
> 18443. Is your number 18440 or 184440?
> My build date(s) are 13-16 March 1962 as shown on my Heritage Trust
> Certificate.  Attached is a photo of the number stamped on my frame
> (120) which is very close to your number if yours is 1 and not I 22.
> I wonder if our cars came down the line together.  I also wonder if
> they took a frame out of sequence (if they were numbered in
> sequence)?  My car was shipped to L.A.  Do you know where yours was
> shipped to?
> Regards,  Dan
> <Chassis ID 4.JPG>

From helyjohn at cablespeed.com  Tue Oct  9 13:59:01 2007
From: helyjohn at cablespeed.com (John Snyder)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 11:59:01 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] 62bt7
References: <004201c80a8c$3e500570$c02cd24a@compaq>
Message-ID: <002601c80aae$d7c1f8e0$f030eb42@FRED>

There is another solution.  The car I'm restoring now was put into storage 
in 1974 without draining the fuel tank.  I drained the tank, but not only 
was it impossible to suck air out the connection for the fuel pump, 80 psi 
air would not go into the tank.  I carefully vented the remaining vapor 
(really stunk) and used a cut-off wheel to make a square opening in the tank 
around the fuel suction line and removed it.  The gauze filter that Mike 
mentioned was missing, and nowhere in the tank and I have no idea what 
happened to it.  .The lower portion of the suction tube was plugged so solid 
I had to use a drill to clear it.  Then had a very good welding shop weld 
the square back into the tank (no gauze filter).  Then installed an in-line 
external filter between the tank and pump.

While the suction pipe is out of the tank, you can look at the condition of 
the lining.  If it is comming off in sheets, then a new tank is the only 
solution.

John Snyder


> Hi Kurt,
> Yes there is an inaccessible gauze filter on the end of the pickup pipe
> inside the tank.
> You have probably got a membrane of sealant acting as a non return valve
> which can be a real problem when these products are used in Healey
> tanks. Sorry, I can't recommend a solution other than a new tank!!
>
>
> Michael Salter
>
>
> I restored a 62bt7 about 3 years ago, quick kote was put into the gas
> tank and except for rebuilding the fuel pump(original) due to new fuel
> addatives, the car has run fine, except as of late, I loose fuel flow
> from the tank, I have drained and flushed the tank several times, and
> regularly change the fuel filter, installed between the tank and the
> pump, but if the car sits for any length of time I get about 5 miles
> down the road and loose fuel. Removing the filter and blowing back into
> the tank with the gas cap off solves the problem instantly. Is there a
> fuel screen inside the tank? Or is the tank not properly vented?   Kurt

From rwil at sbcglobal.net  Wed Oct 10 17:54:13 2007
From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 16:54:13 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 62bt7
In-Reply-To: <002601c80aae$d7c1f8e0$f030eb42@FRED>
References: <004201c80a8c$3e500570$c02cd24a@compaq>
	<002601c80aae$d7c1f8e0$f030eb42@FRED>
Message-ID: <37pqg3h9k25kjolepfvl2jg0v3fbtmt1se@4ax.com>

I would urge a whole lot of caution before considering making sparks
around something that has ever contained gasoline.  There are reports
(no pun intended) of explosions of "dry, empty tanks" that someone was
grinding or brazing or welding on.  If I were going to take a cutoff
wheel to a used gas tank, I would first fill it with water.  Actually
I wouldn't do it;  I would let someone else do it.   I would bet that
the good welding shop did the same before welding the patch back in.

-Roland

On Tue, 9 Oct 2007 11:59:01 -0800, you wrote:

::There is another solution.  The car I'm restoring now was put into storage
::in 1974 without draining the fuel tank.  I drained the tank, but not only
::was it impossible to suck air out the connection for the fuel pump, 80 psi
::air would not go into the tank.  I carefully vented the remaining vapor
::(really stunk) and used a cut-off wheel to make a square opening in the tank
::around the fuel suction line and removed it.  The gauze filter that Mike
::mentioned was missing, and nowhere in the tank and I have no idea what
::happened to it.  .The lower portion of the suction tube was plugged so solid
::I had to use a drill to clear it.  Then had a very good welding shop weld
::the square back into the tank (no gauze filter).  Then installed an in-line
::external filter between the tank and pump.

From sprite58 at hotmail.com  Wed Oct 10 18:25:04 2007
From: sprite58 at hotmail.com (r moses)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 20:25:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Sprite Jubilee  Cheap is good, free is better
Message-ID: <BAY101-W14851C4E0EDD1F6F24C154CBA70@phx.gbl>

Cheap is good, Free is better
Cheap ... Take $25 off of the current $75 SpriteJubilee Registration Fee with
written proof of registration for one of thefollowing meets: Austin-Healey
Club of America 2008 Conclave .. or ..Austin-Healey Sports & Touring Club 2008
Encounter .. or .. Sprite-Midget ClubLake of Ozarks, MO Gathering.FREE ...
Vendors & Tailgate Sales space is FREE.You do not have to pay anything to come
and sell/trate/buy items at SpriteJubilee but you must register by filling out
and submitting this form in orderto receive FREE inside or outside selling
spaces.Visit the Sprite Jubilee 2008 Registration Form at
http://www.spritejubilee.com/registration_form.htmlSprite Jubilee is a
fabulous family vacation event at a Super Resort !!!Visit Hotel Carlisle Group
Registration Form PDF at
http://www.spritejubilee.com/lodging/group_reservation.pdf... OR ...Telephone
Hotel Carlisle anytime Nation Wide Toll Free 800-692-7315. 8-12 1-4
weekdayseastern USA time works best.All children are welcome at all events,
pay events at a reduced fee, or atconcurrent parties just for the children.
The 5 day meet Registration Fee* includes everybody in your family that
isliving at your home and all the British & Sports cars you all own. There
areno additional charges for your driving age dependents or cars you all own.
The $75 fee is the same as Sprite Spree 2003 five years ago and cheaper if
yougo to more than one or three specific events in 2008 and it includes
morepeople and cars. For the event of a lifetime register now! The Sprite's
50th anniversary, May 20, 2008 happens just once at SpriteJubilee 2008 in
Central Pennsylvania USA. * Note: Carlisle Import/Kit/Replicar Nationals, May
16 - 18, 2008. Requires aseparate registration and fee with Carlisle
Productions. Register daily orsave money on an all three day show field pass
with your car.Visit Carlisle Import/Kit/Replicar Nationals at
www.carsatcarlisle.com  FOR HELP with Registering for Sprite Jubilee 2008 or
resort roomaccommodations contact Rick Moses personally at nationwide toll
free877-748-3165, cell phone 717-379-5752 and by email at SPRITE anytime!
Don't get frustrated; talk to Rick. Keep smiling!
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail and Microsoft Office Outlook  together at last.  Get it
now.
http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/outlook/HA102225181033.aspx?pid=CL100626971
033

From lgalper1 at cox.net  Wed Oct 10 19:22:01 2007
From: lgalper1 at cox.net (Lou G)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 18:22:01 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Undoing the crank nut
In-Reply-To: <mailman.22848.1192053386.12556.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.22848.1192053386.12556.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <470D7AB9.7050501@cox.net>

We used an electric impact tool with a 42 mm socket --took about 3 seconds !

Lou
BN1
San Diego AH Club

>With the engine out of the car, it's a bit of a challenge to undo the
>crank nut without the engine turning- I'm thinking of making a
>bracket that would hold the clutch to the back plate, but my friend
>has offered to come by with air tools.  Anyone have another trick for
>this if I get impatient?

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Oct 10 19:45:53 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 09:45:53 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys in Berlin
In-Reply-To: <14375193.1890201192035218535.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web16-z01>
References: <14375193.1890201192035218535.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web16-z01>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0710101845n58d89ce0w88393d9611061818@mail.gmail.com>

Steve -

That's not a suprise.  Berlin was a virtual island for a good 40+
years during the time healeys were being made - it would have been too
expensive/complicated to get non standard cars to the city, plus most
of them bought in Germany were probably first bought by US military
personel in West Germany then sold used to the local population.

Alan

On 10/11/07, sbyers at ec.rr.com <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:
> Hi, Richard -
> I don't know about 100-4s, but you might try connecting with the German A-H Club to see if they can hook you up with 100-4 owners:   http://www.ahcg.de, or maybe one of our German listers can do the honors.
>
> An interesting thing:  I have 271 BJ8s listed in the BJ8 registry from Germany, but only one of those is in Berlin.  Whoulda thunk it?
>
> Have a great trip!
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
> ---- Richard Korn <rkorn at simnet.is> wrote:
> > Guten tag Healeyphiles,
> >
> > Does anyone know of any Healey 1004s in Berlin?
> >
> > I4m on tour with the symphony the first week of november and have 2 days off
> > to roam around the city.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Richard Korn
> > BN2
> > _______________________________________________
> > sbyers at ec.rr.com

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Wed Oct 10 19:58:50 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 18:58:50 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys in Berlin
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0710101845n58d89ce0w88393d9611061818@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKOEGDDGAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>

Allen, I'm not referring to 40 years ago.  I have a current list of 271 BJ8s
in Germany, most of them imported from the States since the early '90s
(because I have U.S. history for a large part of them).  One would think
that out of that many cars, there would be more than one in the capital and
largest city.

Steve

-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 6:46 PM
To: sbyers at ec.rr.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys in Berlin


Steve -

That's not a suprise.  Berlin was a virtual island for a good 40+
years during the time healeys were being made - it would have been too
expensive/complicated to get non standard cars to the city, plus most
of them bought in Germany were probably first bought by US military
personel in West Germany then sold used to the local population.

Alan

On 10/11/07, sbyers at ec.rr.com <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:
> Hi, Richard -
> I don't know about 100-4s, but you might try connecting with the German
A-H Club to see if they can hook you up with 100-4 owners:
http://www.ahcg.de, or maybe one of our German listers can do the honors.
>
> An interesting thing:  I have 271 BJ8s listed in the BJ8 registry from
Germany, but only one of those is in Berlin.  Whoulda thunk it?
>
> Have a great trip!
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
> ---- Richard Korn <rkorn at simnet.is> wrote:
> > Guten tag Healeyphiles,
> >
> > Does anyone know of any Healey 1004s in Berlin?
> >
> > I4m on tour with the symphony the first week of november and have 2 days
off
> > to roam around the city.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Richard Korn
> > BN2
> > _______________________________________________
> > sbyers at ec.rr.com


--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.5/1058 - Release Date: 10/8/2007
4:54 PM

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Wed Oct 10 20:01:20 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 19:01:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys in Berlin
Message-ID: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKEEGEDGAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>

Alan, I'm not referring to 40 years ago.  I have a list of 271 BJ8s in
Germany now, most of them imported from the States since the early '90s
(because I have U.S. history for a large part of them).  One would think
that out of that many cars, there would be more than one in the capital and
largest city, nicht wahr?

Steve

-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 6:46 PM
To: sbyers at ec.rr.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys in Berlin


Steve -

That's not a suprise.  Berlin was a virtual island for a good 40+
years during the time healeys were being made - it would have been too
expensive/complicated to get non standard cars to the city, plus most
of them bought in Germany were probably first bought by US military
personel in West Germany then sold used to the local population.

Alan

On 10/11/07, sbyers at ec.rr.com <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:
> Hi, Richard -
> I don't know about 100-4s, but you might try connecting with the German
A-H Club to see if they can hook you up with 100-4 owners:
http://www.ahcg.de, or maybe one of our German listers can do the honors.
>
> An interesting thing:  I have 271 BJ8s listed in the BJ8 registry from
Germany, but only one of those is in Berlin.  Whoulda thunk it?
>
> Have a great trip!
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
> ---- Richard Korn <rkorn at simnet.is> wrote:
> > Guten tag Healeyphiles,
> >
> > Does anyone know of any Healey 1004s in Berlin?
> >
> > I4m on tour with the symphony the first week of november and have 2 days
off
> > to roam around the city.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Richard Korn
> > BN2
> > _______________________________________________
> > sbyers at ec.rr.com


--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.5/1058 - Release Date: 10/8/2007
4:54 PM

From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au  Wed Oct 10 19:59:59 2007
From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 11:59:59 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Healey SR Lemans 1968
In-Reply-To: <001001c80b84$c449d220$0301000a@Geology1>
References: <001001c80b84$c449d220$0301000a@Geology1>
Message-ID: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C70169EC2C@itfexch5.central.det.win>

G'day

Perhaps if I were to spread a little Healey History the car for sale
will be put into prospective. You will realise that the below is a
severely truncated version.

The DHMC has an amazing history at Le Mans with the first entry in 1949
through to the last in 1970.

For the 1968 event it was decided to enter a sports prototype and work
went ahead to build the Healey SR coupe. Two floor pans were built with
one made up to a complete car with rear mounted 2-litre Coventry-Climax
V8 and Hewland transaxle. Support was still being provided by BMC; hence
the Climax V8 as the company came under the BMC umbrella.

The second floor pan was built in case it was needed after an accident.
Finished in BRG the SR was a good looking but didn't last the distance
at Le Mans, mainly due to the engine shaking other bits to pieces. It
was modified and ran again in 1969 but the results were very much the
same.

With the Le Mans rules being what they were did not allow the same cars
to run 3 years running. So for 1970 the SR was drastically modified into
an open car or roadster 4 inches longer, painted white and fitted with a
Repco-Brabham V8 and Hewland transaxle. In a further effort to confuse
the French it was also renamed to the Healey XR37. During the race it
almost lasted the distance until sidelined by ignition problems. If you
want to see the car in action, have a look at the Steve McQueen film, Le
Mans.

After the event the DHMC put the car up for sale and at the time Brian
Healey was communicating with the father of Robert Harrison here in
Australia. Robert had recently bought a new BJ8 that he still has.
Anyway Brian let it be known that the XR37 was up for sale and Robert
bought the car. Before it was shipped to Australia there was thought
about running it again in 1971 and Brian approached Robert to see if he
could arrange the necessary finances. It was not possible and the car
was shipped to Australia.

Robert Harrison still owns the XR37 and it is in Sydney. Apart from now
running a modified Rover V8 it is as it ran in 1970. So the car that
actually ran at Le Mans in 1968, 1969 and 1970 is in Sydney, Australia.

End of Part 1

**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************

From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au  Wed Oct 10 20:03:03 2007
From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 12:03:03 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Healey SR Lemans 1968 - Part 2
In-Reply-To: <001001c80b84$c449d220$0301000a@Geology1>
References: <001001c80b84$c449d220$0301000a@Geology1>
Message-ID: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C70169EC2D@itfexch5.central.det.win>

Part 2

Remember the second floor pan? That was sold to a friend of Geoff Healey
along with the bits left during the time when the car was changed for
1969 and 1970 events on the proviso that it not be sold. Geoff had ideas
of making it into the start of a run of complete cars and selling them
as Healeys. However that didn't occur and sadly Geoff died.

Geoff's friend some years later sold the floorpan and bits to an
Australian via auction. It was all brought back here and was used to
build a new SR with a Rover V8. The workmanship was and still is first
class. When the car was taken to the UK a few years back it was tested
by Mick Walsh of Classic and Sports Car who sung the car's praises
loudly.

The car came up for sale in Australia about 12 months back and the
asking price was Aus$400,000. There is at least one more reconstruction
of the SR in the UK.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+patrick.quinn=det.nsw.edu.au at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+patrick.quinn=det.nsw.edu.au at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Ross Maylor
Sent: Thursday, 11 October 2007 7:30 AM
To: Healey Forum
Subject: [Healeys] Healey SR Lemans 1968

Hi all,
This car has come up for discussion previously on the list.
It is currently for sale. No idea of price.
See page 4
http://www.vdvgrant.be/sale.php

Cheers
Ross Maylor
_______________________________________________
patrick.quinn at det.nsw.edu.au

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Wed Oct 10 20:41:42 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 19:41:42 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Frame number and serial number
In-Reply-To: <2FF22CAC-440C-4E27-9783-806CB4CDCFEC@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKIEGGDGAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>

Hi, Randy -
A possible explanation is that the chassis were delivered from Jensen to BMC
and stored until needed.  They were pulled out of the warehouse in no
particular VIN or body number order for completion, except that the chassis
were received in groups which would tend to keep the numbers fairly close
together, but not necessarily in sequence.  I have evidence from registry
data that some short runs of three or four cars could be in sequence as far
as the chassis numbers and body numbers being sequential together, but not
too many more than that.  The exception is the Metallic Golden Beige BJ8s
which have long sequences where chassis and body numbers are in sequence
together.  Another interesting anomaly to make us wonder why.

It's my understanding that as the cars passed through the assembly process,
cards were filled out with the applicable Car Number, Body Number, Engine
Number, colors, optional equipment, etc.  These "build cards" were intended
to stay at the factory, and were the source data for the microfilm records
used to produce the certificates.  Three or four BJ8s that I have records
for somehow made their way out of the factory with the build cards in the
glovebox, and still have them today.

There is information on the cards and BMIHT archives that is interesting,
but not included on certificates:  Date off Body Line, Date off Trim Line,
Date off Test, Date off Rectification, Date off Finishing, and Date Advised.
The dates on the certificates are the Date off Body Line and Date Advised.
The production process for some cars was as long as six months.  It would be
interesting to know why, and what was going on during that time.

Cheers!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
Randy Hicks
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 12:55 PM
To: Dave Schweninger
Cc: Healeys at Autox
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Frame number and serial number


It's always interesting (and confusing) how the numbers and build
dates run.

My BN7 18014 was built 20 - 22 March, 1962. Body #19117.

So my car has an earlier serial #, later body number & later build
date. How is this explained?

Randy

From papashado at comcast.net  Wed Oct 10 20:57:18 2007
From: papashado at comcast.net (James Routt)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 20:57:18 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] NAS Miramar Air Show
Message-ID: <002801c80bb2$70059f40$0201a8c0@D9FGSR41>

Sorry to bomb the list with this info note but if anybody in the San Diego
area wants to come out to the Miramar Airshow, 12 - 14 Oct, I'll be more
than happy to give you the tour of an Air Force MC-130P Shado in exchange to
talk healey stuff. My unit got a last minute invite and I'm one not to pass
up a free 4 day weekend in San Diego. Have no idea where they will park us.
Hope to see you there. Here are couple of links. 

 

http://www.af.mil/factsheets/factsheet.asp?fsID=116

http://www.fas.org/man/dod-101/sys/ac/mc-130p.htm

 

Jim

Albuquerque, NM

BN7

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Wed Oct 10 21:27:52 2007
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 23:27:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Frame number and serial number
In-Reply-To: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKIEGGDGAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>
References: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKIEGGDGAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>
Message-ID: <BF8DB297-EA85-4DF5-A990-7156CD6315A7@gmail.com>

Hi Steve, thanks for the response. Yours and Rich C.'s explanations  
make a lot of sense. It does, however, bring into question which is  
the last BN7 (or any model) built. We should be looking at build  
dates and not serial numbers if the cars were produced out of  
sequence.  ????

Might be an interesting question for Bill Bolton to look into.

You are also right about the build cards. I have the original build  
card for this BN7. The original owner of the car, who I bought it  
from, kept it all these years along with all original paperwork/ 
stickers. There are no additional dates on the card. Interestingly  
this Ivory White with Red Interior car went through the factory with  
a BLUE hardtop per the build sheet. The Blue hardtop never made it to  
the dealer in Chicago according to the original owner.

As I'm getting ready to restore it, I'm having some problems with the  
original build card color combinations.  :-)  It does look great with  
the black hardtop I have for it.

Thanks for the input.

Randy

Randy Hicks
'56 100M
'60 BN7 MkI
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com

From mkgoodman at worldnet.att.net  Wed Oct 10 21:51:50 2007
From: mkgoodman at worldnet.att.net (Mark Goodman)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 23:51:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW: 1960 BN6 for sale
Message-ID: <001701c80bba$0e230da0$2a6928e0$@att.net>

I found the following in a local "Pennysaver"  magazine ( no financial
interest):

 

1960 Austin Healey 3000

Great running car with many extras.  Custom canvas toneau cover and original
factory hardtop.  New wire wheels with new Michelin tires.  Upgraded brakes
and suspension.  Old English white with red interior.  Serviced by
Briarcliff Classic Import Motors for over 25 years.  Serious buyers only.
$30,000         914-747-1390    John     

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Wed Oct 10 23:01:42 2007
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 06:01:42 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys in Berlin
In-Reply-To: <005201c80b4d$0bb2be70$4001a8c0@velad>
Message-ID: <001201c80bc3$d0abd6f0$0200a8c0@simonalexa>

Wasn't one of the first escapes ex East Berlin done in a 100/4 which,
presumably with screen down, shot under the barrier at Checkpoint Charlie?
Thereafter there was a dogleg so that one had to go really slow.
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+simon.lachlan=homecall.co.uk at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+simon.lachlan=homecall.co.uk at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Richard Korn
Sent: 10 October 2007 15:52
To: Healey list
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys in Berlin

Guten tag Healeyphiles,

Does anyone know of any Healey 1004s in Berlin?

I4m on tour with the symphony the first week of november and have 2 days off
to roam around the city.

Thanks,

Richard Korn
BN2
_______________________________________________
simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Wed Oct 10 23:07:10 2007
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 06:07:10 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Undoing the crank nut
In-Reply-To: <a06200701c331d92da103@[192.168.0.100]>
Message-ID: <001301c80bc4$9421d580$0200a8c0@simonalexa>

I went to a local tool shop which has masses of stuff, old and new. I bought
a vast open ended spanner, of the right size of course. I put it on the nut
and gave it an almighty wallop with a club hammer whereupon the nut came
undone. First time, I think.
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+simon.lachlan=homecall.co.uk at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+simon.lachlan=homecall.co.uk at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Stephen Hutchings
Sent: 10 October 2007 02:25
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Undoing the crank nut

With the engine out of the car, it's a bit of a challenge to undo the 
crank nut without the engine turning- I'm thinking of making a 
bracket that would hold the clutch to the back plate, but my friend 
has offered to come by with air tools.  Anyone have another trick for 
this if I get impatient?

Stephen, BJ8
_______________________________________________
simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Wed Oct 10 23:08:58 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 00:08:58 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys in Berlin
References: <001201c80bc3$d0abd6f0$0200a8c0@simonalexa>
Message-ID: <005e01c80bc4$d4fe72c0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>

If the escape from Berlin story is true would be a great one to chronicle in 
a Healey club mag or elsewhere?

As far as Healeys in Berlin, maybe the cost of storage and city traffic 
tends to move the cars out of the area?

Greg Lemon
54 BN1

From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au  Wed Oct 10 23:12:02 2007
From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 15:12:02 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys in Berlin
In-Reply-To: <001201c80bc3$d0abd6f0$0200a8c0@simonalexa>
References: <005201c80b4d$0bb2be70$4001a8c0@velad>
	<001201c80bc3$d0abd6f0$0200a8c0@simonalexa>
Message-ID: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C70169EC34@itfexch5.central.det.win>

G'DAY

Yes and another case was when they moved the twin 6-volt batteries to
the boot and someone hid in the space just in front of the rear axle.

Well!!!! Fair suck of the sav really. Actually it was in a BMW Isetta
and someone hid in a boarded up space just above the rear engine.

If you know what an Isetta is, then you will realise that this would
require an even more agile person. Except it's a true story.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+patrick.quinn=det.nsw.edu.au at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+patrick.quinn=det.nsw.edu.au at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Simon Lachlan
Sent: Thursday, 11 October 2007 3:02 PM
To: 'Richard Korn'; 'Healey list'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys in Berlin

Wasn't one of the first escapes ex East Berlin done in a 100/4 which,
presumably with screen down, shot under the barrier at Checkpoint
Charlie?
Thereafter there was a dogleg so that one had to go really slow.
Simon
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Wed Oct 10 23:17:28 2007
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 01:17:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Undoing the crank nut
In-Reply-To: <001301c80bc4$9421d580$0200a8c0@simonalexa>
Message-ID: <20071011051905.19369187A0F@autox.team.net>

It is not at all unusual for the crank nut to come loose on Healey engines
and this is usually because it is not tightened sufficiently during
assembly. The factory tool for the job is part # 18G391 and is described as
a "shock type" wrench. 
In my experience one can easily get another 1/4 turn on the nut with this
wrench after fully tightening it with a good 1/2" impact gun. No crank
locking mechanism is required during tightening as the inertia of the crank
and flywheel is quite sufficient to allow the wrench to do its job.

Michael Salter
100S (1955)
3000 Mk111(1965)
100 (1953)
AHX12 (1953)
Bugeye (1961)
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Simon Lachlan
Sent: October 11, 2007 1:07 AM
To: 'Stephen Hutchings'; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Undoing the crank nut

I went to a local tool shop which has masses of stuff, old and new. I bought
a vast open ended spanner, of the right size of course. I put it on the nut
and gave it an almighty wallop with a club hammer whereupon the nut came
undone. First time, I think.
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+simon.lachlan=homecall.co.uk at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+simon.lachlan=homecall.co.uk at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Stephen Hutchings
Sent: 10 October 2007 02:25
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Undoing the crank nut

With the engine out of the car, it's a bit of a challenge to undo the 
crank nut without the engine turning- I'm thinking of making a 
bracket that would hold the clutch to the back plate, but my friend 
has offered to come by with air tools.  Anyone have another trick for 
this if I get impatient?

Stephen, BJ8
_______________________________________________
simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
_______________________________________________
msalter at precisionsportscar.com 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From TRICARB at aol.com  Wed Oct 10 23:20:56 2007
From: TRICARB at aol.com (TRICARB at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 01:20:56 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] BN7 serial number stampings
Message-ID: <d40.15974c34.343f0cb8@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/10/2007 8:26:44 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
quenty at ntelos.net writes:

Ken
Look on the top of the  small triangular piece at the  intersection of  
the front cross-member and the front of the spring  tower and the  
frame rail. If you need a picture let me know.
I  don't think this is a serial number as mine says: 1 or I  22. Which   
Doesn't fit with any of the other numbers on the car. Must be one of   
the Jensen mysteries.
Dave
BN7 II 184440



That is the Boulton-Paul, Ltd. number placed on the box frame prior to  being 
shipped to Jensen for further assembly.  The factory did not track  these 
numbers though I have been tracking them for years.  Please  them in to me.  
Please all of you respond.



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of healey & shroud, articles 004.jpg]

From TRICARB at aol.com  Wed Oct 10 23:56:57 2007
From: TRICARB at aol.com (TRICARB at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 01:56:57 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Frame number and serial number
Message-ID: <ce2.1de446d5.343f1529@aol.com>

I do not believe there is any funny things going on at the  Herightage gtigat 
 things schanc



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Thu Oct 11 02:06:44 2007
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 10:06:44 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys in Berlin
In-Reply-To: <005201c80b4d$0bb2be70$4001a8c0@velad>
References: <005201c80b4d$0bb2be70$4001a8c0@velad>
Message-ID: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA817500357145F@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com>

Hello Richard,
As a German, living in Germany and very active in the Healey scene I do not
know anyone living in Berlin having any Healey. As Berlin is a big crowded
city like London or Paris with heavy road traffic it might also be not be the
right place for a Healey. I lived for 5 years in Berlin, which is about 20
years ago and I would not even recommend to drive into the city with a Healey.
Most cars are parked on the road, as garage space is very limited. So people
having classic cars are usually living in the outskirts of Berlin and not in
the city.
Btw. I know Healey enthusiasts as extreme friendly people and this does not
match to a Berliner. For me Berliners are the most unfriendly people in the
world. I think I am alowed to say that as being a German.
What I would recommend to see is the so called Meilenwerk in Berlin (see
http://www.meilenwerk.de/meilenwerk_berlin_fakten.htm). That4s a real place
for classic car intusiasts. A big old building is renovated to use as an
umbrella for professional classic car restorers, classic car traders and as a
place for private classic car owners to park their car safely. It is open to
the public and you can see all the cars and the work in the workshops. There
is also a model shop, a book shop and a restaurant and coffee shop (taste one
of the offered cakes). It is really nice and worth to have a look and a rest.
The internet page mentioned above is all in German language, but at least you
can have a look to the pictures.
I will be in Berlin next Monday for business and perhaps when time is left
spend an hour or two for looking what4s new in the Meilenwerk.

Josef Eckert
Koenigswinter/Germany

54BN1, 62BT7, 65Sprite

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Thu Oct 11 02:30:12 2007
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 10:30:12 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys in Berlin
In-Reply-To: <001201c80bc3$d0abd6f0$0200a8c0@simonalexa>
References: <005201c80b4d$0bb2be70$4001a8c0@velad>
	<001201c80bc3$d0abd6f0$0200a8c0@simonalexa>
Message-ID: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA8175003571475@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com>

Simon,
It was not a 100/4, one had used a Sprite. I think it was a MK2 or 3. The
screen was loose fixed to put it off when they reached the barrier. The Sprite
without screen was low enough to drive through under the barrier. This car
was(/is) on display in the Museum at Check Point Charly, which documents all
the escapes and failed escapes. Also a Morris Mini (to see in the museum) was
used cutting out the seat trim to allow a girl to be fitted in, just covered
with the seat cover. A young guy got his girlfriend through the checks that
way.

Josef Eckert


-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Simon Lachlan [mailto:simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk]
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 11. Oktober 2007 07:02
An: 'Richard Korn'; 'Healey list'
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Healeys in Berlin

Wasn't one of the first escapes ex East Berlin done in a 100/4 which,
presumably with screen down, shot under the barrier at Checkpoint Charlie?
Thereafter there was a dogleg so that one had to go really slow.
Simon

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Oct 11 03:18:48 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 17:18:48 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys in Berlin
In-Reply-To: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA8175003571475@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com>
References: <005201c80b4d$0bb2be70$4001a8c0@velad>
	<001201c80bc3$d0abd6f0$0200a8c0@simonalexa>
	<63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA8175003571475@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0710110218n7edf362ctae7cbb1f01915425@mail.gmail.com>

Here's the article in TIME from 1963 that tells you the full details:

http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,870394,00.html

You have to admit somehow there was some very romantic notions about
the wall and getting past it, provided you weren't the poor sod stuck
behind it (like my Slovak wife)!

If you read the article closely, you will see that this car had to be
a bugeye sprite because it's the only healey that has "luggage space
behind the seats".  All other sprites had a proper boot, and you would
not bea able to fit behind the seats.

Cheers!

Alan

On 10/11/07, Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com <Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com> wrote:
> Simon,
> It was not a 100/4, one had used a Sprite. I think it was a MK2 or 3. The
> screen was loose fixed to put it off when they reached the barrier. The Sprite
> without screen was low enough to drive through under the barrier. This car
> was(/is) on display in the Museum at Check Point Charly, which documents all
> the escapes and failed escapes. Also a Morris Mini (to see in the museum) was
> used cutting out the seat trim to allow a girl to be fitted in, just covered
> with the seat cover. A young guy got his girlfriend through the checks that
> way.
>
> Josef Eckert
>
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: Simon Lachlan [mailto:simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk]
> Gesendet: Donnerstag, 11. Oktober 2007 07:02
> An: 'Richard Korn'; 'Healey list'
> Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Healeys in Berlin
>
> Wasn't one of the first escapes ex East Berlin done in a 100/4 which,
> presumably with screen down, shot under the barrier at Checkpoint Charlie?
> Thereafter there was a dogleg so that one had to go really slow.
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Oct 11 03:40:58 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 17:40:58 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Camshaft removal and oil pump
In-Reply-To: <a06200700c331d79340f8@192.168.0.100>
References: <a06200700c331d79340f8@192.168.0.100>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0710110240r5538f5ccoc5193940270172@mail.gmail.com>

Not if you use a really big sledge hammer to knock it out.


On 10/10/07, Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com> wrote:
> I think I've noticed another error in the Haynes manual; my reading
> of the cam removal procedure in the workshop manual starts with the
> removal of the sump and oil pump, and goes on to mention the timing
> gears, distributor drive etc.  But the Haynes manual doesn't mention
> the oil pump- Surely, one must disengage the oil pump before being
> able to withdraw the camshaft?
>
> Stephen, BJ8

From mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net  Thu Oct 11 04:19:25 2007
From: mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net (Mark and Kathy)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 06:19:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Heritage, was  Frame number and serial number
References: <470CFC6A.6070803@wowway.com><E523D4C5-0376-4BE8-A5E8-6F06DE7A5D30@ntelos.net><2FF22CAC-440C-4E27-9783-806CB4CDCFEC@gmail.com>
	<005101c80b7b$15d199c0$1f9bfea9@dell>
Message-ID: <004a01c80bf1$dd790960$a887e004@markl946cfrd7q>

Jim,  How could you say such a thing.   Last I heard it is a woman doing it 
and we all know she heads down to the clothier and day spa with the $$$.

Anders Clausager used to do the records but he left several years ago.    He 
was pretty good at the detaily stuff.

Just so you know,   Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "bluechip" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
To: "Randy Hicks" <Healey100M at gmail.com>; "Dave Schweninger" 
<quenty at ntelos.net>
Cc: "Healeys at Autox" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 4:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Frame number and serial number


> Maybe there are no Heritage records....Just some guy making up stuff,
> printing out certificates and pocketing the money?
>
> <(.?.)>
>
> Jim
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Randy Hicks" <Healey100M at gmail.com>
> To: "Dave Schweninger" <quenty at ntelos.net>
> Cc: "Healeys at Autox" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 3:55 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Frame number and serial number
>
>
>> It's always interesting (and confusing) how the numbers and build
>> dates run.
>>
>> My BN7 18014 was built 20 - 22 March, 1962. Body #19117.
>>
>> So my car has an earlier serial #, later body number & later build
>> date. How is this explained?
>>
>> Randy
>>
>> Randy Hicks
>> '56 100M
>> '60 BN7 MkI
>> '62 BN7 MkII
>> '65 BJ8
>> '53 MGTD
>> Healey100M at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Oct 11 05:41:51 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (sbyers at ec.rr.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 7:41:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Frame number and serial number
Message-ID: <10791047.89421192102912005.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web17-z02>

"You are also right about the build cards. I have the original build  
> card for this BN7. The original owner of the car, who I bought it  
> from, kept it all these years along with all original paperwork/ 
> stickers. There are no additional dates on the card."

You're correct, Randy, there are no additional dates on the build cards.  The additional dates are in the "ledger books" that are made available for research if one goes personally to the BMIHT archives library.  The ledger books have the chassis numbers of the cars in sequence down the left column of each page, with the applicable production data for each written in by hand horizontally across in separate columns and other related information on additional pages as required.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

From dcongleton at embarqmail.com  Thu Oct 11 06:04:03 2007
From: dcongleton at embarqmail.com (Dallas Congleton)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 08:04:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Frame number and serial number
References: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKIEGGDGAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>
Message-ID: <002b01c80bfe$d1581ab0$0201a8c0@your4dacd0ea75>

"The exception is the Metallic Golden Beige BJ8s
which have long sequences where chassis and body numbers are in sequence
together."

Steve , I wonder if there is any correlation in the sequence number and 
paint color?  I remember an article years ago in Chatter when Donald Healey 
was asked about the matching of paint colors. He grinned and said they 
bought paint in 50 gallon drums, so that batch would be matched.  This would 
indicate a "run" of cars the same color as the production paint equipment 
would use one color at the time - such as the MGBs. Might be interesting to 
extrapolate to other original colors to see if this was a sequence, at least 
for the bodies.

Dallas




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
To: "Healeys at Autox" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 10:41 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Frame number and serial number


> Hi, Randy -
> A possible explanation is that the chassis were delivered from Jensen to 
> BMC
> and stored until needed.  They were pulled out of the warehouse in no
> particular VIN or body number order for completion, except that the 
> chassis
> were received in groups which would tend to keep the numbers fairly close
> together, but not necessarily in sequence.  I have evidence from registry
> data that some short runs of three or four cars could be in sequence as 
> far
> as the chassis numbers and body numbers being sequential together, but not
> too many more than that.  The exception is the Metallic Golden Beige BJ8s
> which have long sequences where chassis and body numbers are in sequence
> together.  Another interesting anomaly to make us wonder why.
>
> It's my understanding that as the cars passed through the assembly 
> process,
> cards were filled out with the applicable Car Number, Body Number, Engine
> Number, colors, optional equipment, etc.  These "build cards" were 
> intended
> to stay at the factory, and were the source data for the microfilm records
> used to produce the certificates.  Three or four BJ8s that I have records
> for somehow made their way out of the factory with the build cards in the
> glovebox, and still have them today.
>
> There is information on the cards and BMIHT archives that is interesting,
> but not included on certificates:  Date off Body Line, Date off Trim Line,
> Date off Test, Date off Rectification, Date off Finishing, and Date 
> Advised.
> The dates on the certificates are the Date off Body Line and Date Advised.
> The production process for some cars was as long as six months.  It would 
> be
> interesting to know why, and what was going on during that time.
>
> Cheers!
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA

From peter.svilans at rogers.com  Thu Oct 11 06:55:13 2007
From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 08:55:13 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Frame number and serial number
Message-ID: <000c01c80c05$f740d490$fb0aee63@9535DEE118EC44B>

<This would indicate a "run" of cars the same color as the production paint
equipment would use one color at the time>

I once had in my lit collection a large period color photo out of a magazine
of a factory dispatch lot.  It was yellow and yellow/ black two-tone  Healey
roadsters as far as the eye could see, with only a few other stock colors
interspersed in the distance.  A wonderful picture.

Can't scan it for you though, someone decided he needed it more than me.

Peter

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Thu Oct 11 07:22:06 2007
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 09:22:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] spin on oil filter with no oil in it upon removal
Message-ID: <BAY108-W4DE7C1E142930AF92F43CC8A70@phx.gbl>

OK guys, I have another problem,
Yesterday when I had to remove my starter for nonfunctioning I found that I
had to drop the oil, remove the oil filter, and remove the distributor to get
the clearance needed to pull the starter up and out.  Nobody explained that to
me when I purchased the spin on adapter but I shouldn't have to remove the
starter very often.  Anyway, the real problem is that when I removed the oil
filter there was no oil in it, not a drop.  This is a freshly rebuilt bj8
engine with about 160 miles on it.  The oil pump is working and I have oil
pressure, although I think it is a little low for a fresh engine (55 when cold
and 20-25 when hot driving, just below 20 when idle hot).

What could be the problem?  I will check today for blocked holes in the spin
on adapter because of the gasket (adapter to block).  I guess there is a
pressure relief valve and spring in the block on the right side that may have
something to do with bypassing the oil filter but I'm not sure where it is or
how it works.  I will read the shop manual for a guide but I don't remember
that there was a whole lot about the valve in it.  I'd like to get this worked
out while the starter is being fixed today and when it all goes back together
everything will be ready.

Oh, the oil filter on the car was a Unipart #GFE 22, I bought an AC/Delco to
replace it.  The Unipart filter feels much heavier than the AC/Delco.
Although no oil came out of the old filter could there be oil trapped in it
making it heavier or is there really that much difference in the weight of
different filters.  I mean there was not even a trace of oil on the inside
wall of the old filter.  Thanks for any suggestions.  Well I just got a call
from the starter repair guy and he said the starter just had something wrong
with the faces of the (+) brushes.  He refaced them and it is ready to go.  I
really need those suggestions now because I want to be driving by this
afternoon.

George Haywood
'65 bj8
_________________________________________________________________
Help yourself to FREE treats served up daily at the Messenger Cafi. Stop by
today.
http://www.cafemessenger.com/info/info_sweetstuff2.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_OctWLt
agline

From 57healey at gmail.com  Thu Oct 11 07:25:09 2007
From: 57healey at gmail.com (Patton Dickson)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 08:25:09 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Found on Craigs list - Tucson, AZ Best Garage Sale Ever
Message-ID: <743b1e2f0710110625q4e01810ar2dd563b5d000b648@mail.gmail.com>

Very cool, too bad I am nowhere near Tucson.

Patton
-----------------------------------------------------


Garage Sale Antiques furniture and auto part (British) (Picture Rocks)
from AZ tucson - austin healey

Friday and Saturday October 19th and 20th. 6069 N. Bobcat Lane,
Picture Rocks- 8:00 am until 4:00 pm both days. Antique furniture,
vintage clothing, household items, tools, many auto parts(all parts
are for British cars-Austin Healey 3000 and 100-6, Triumph GT6, TR4,)
complete original mechanical winch for a CJ2, 3 and 5 Jeeps.
Miscellaneous furniture all in good condition, winter clothes, vintage
shoes, antique cherry china cabinet, fiberglass cap for a chevy s-10
pickup 4x4 or 2 wheel drive, excellent condition, jeep wheels and
tires, Toyota land cruiser metal top, willys metal top and metal
doors, airco professional paint sprayer for houses, old stereo
equipment, Teac reel to reel tape player, speakers, antique Triumph
bicycle,

-- 
Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX
1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out."

From JNBrashear at garverengineers.com  Thu Oct 11 07:34:51 2007
From: JNBrashear at garverengineers.com (Brashear, Jack, N)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 08:34:51 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Frame number and serial number
In-Reply-To: <001a01c80b89$9bd10110$4001a8c0@HANKS>
Message-ID: <2D0989D186D44349BE853EE6CFC87AE603612AEC@glitas07.garverinc.local>

Hi All, my Mk2 tricarb (center shift) HBT7L17350 has the numbers 3092BT7
and 17.279L on the firewall tag.  Does this provide a clue as to the
construction date??  Just curious... I don't have a BMIHC certificate.
I'm the original owner of this car so I'll promise this the original
tag.  Thanks to all,
Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+jnbrashear=garverengineers.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+jnbrashear=garverengineers.com at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of hcdodson
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 5:05 PM
To: Randy Hicks; Dave Schweninger
Cc: Healeys at Autox
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Frame number and serial number

Here is some more confusion on serial #s,

My BN7 is #18436, body # 19110, it was built 19-21 March 1962 and sent
to
Chicago on 11 April 1962.

Hank Dodson
'62 BN7 MK II

From healey100m at gmail.com  Thu Oct 11 08:13:40 2007
From: healey100m at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 10:13:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN7 serial number stampings
In-Reply-To: <d40.15974c34.343f0cb8@aol.com>
References: <d40.15974c34.343f0cb8@aol.com>
Message-ID: <bc145b290710110713i6e07c98bgd18d8672f0d8320d@mail.gmail.com>

The 1st line on my BN7 #18014 Build Sheet shows a "C.A.B. Serial
27/13/14".  Is this the same number or something different?

Randy Hicks

On 10/11/07, TRICARB at aol.com <TRICARB at aol.com> wrote:
> In a message dated 10/10/2007 8:26:44 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> quenty at ntelos.net writes:
>
> Ken
> Look on the top of the  small triangular piece at the  intersection of
> the front cross-member and the front of the spring  tower and the
> frame rail. If you need a picture let me know.
> I  don't think this is a serial number as mine says: 1 or I  22. Which
> Doesn't fit with any of the other numbers on the car. Must be one of
> the Jensen mysteries.
> Dave
> BN7 II 184440
>
>
>
> That is the Boulton-Paul, Ltd. number placed on the box frame prior to  being
> shipped to Jensen for further assembly.  The factory did not track  these
> numbers though I have been tracking them for years.  Please  them in to me.
> Please all of you respond.
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of healey & shroud, articles 004.jpg]
> _______________________________________________
> healey100m at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Randy Hicks
'56 100M
'62 BN7 MKII
'66 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.co

From twillig at ruda.de  Thu Oct 11 08:42:31 2007
From: twillig at ruda.de (Thomas Willig)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 16:42:31 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys in Berlin
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0710110218n7edf362ctae7cbb1f01915425@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0710111642338600@ruda.de>

It definetly was a Sprite MK2! I have seen the car myself in the museum in
Berlin.

Regards


Thomas


-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com]
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 11. Oktober 2007 11:19
An: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com
Cc:
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Healeys in Berlin

Here's the article in TIME from 1963 that tells you the full details:

http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,870394,00.html

You have to admit somehow there was some very romantic notions about the
wall and getting past it, provided you weren't the poor sod stuck behind it
(like my Slovak wife)!

If you read the article closely, you will see that this car had to be a
bugeye sprite because it's the only healey that has "luggage space behind
the seats".  All other sprites had a proper boot, and you would not bea able
to fit behind the seats.

Cheers!

Alan

On 10/11/07, Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com <Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com> wrote:
> Simon,
> It was not a 100/4, one had used a Sprite. I think it was a MK2 or 3.
> The screen was loose fixed to put it off when they reached the
> barrier. The Sprite without screen was low enough to drive through
> under the barrier. This car
> was(/is) on display in the Museum at Check Point Charly, which
> documents all the escapes and failed escapes. Also a Morris Mini (to
> see in the museum) was used cutting out the seat trim to allow a girl
> to be fitted in, just covered with the seat cover. A young guy got his
> girlfriend through the checks that way.
>
> Josef Eckert
>
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: Simon Lachlan [mailto:simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk]
> Gesendet: Donnerstag, 11. Oktober 2007 07:02
> An: 'Richard Korn'; 'Healey list'
> Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Healeys in Berlin
>
> Wasn't one of the first escapes ex East Berlin done in a 100/4 which,
> presumably with screen down, shot under the barrier at Checkpoint Charlie?
> Thereafter there was a dogleg so that one had to go really slow.
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


--
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Thu Oct 11 08:59:33 2007
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 10:59:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] spin on oil filter with no oil in it upon removal
In-Reply-To: <000a01c80c12$ca4233a0$6400a8c0@OFFICE>
References: <BAY108-W4DE7C1E142930AF92F43CC8A70@phx.gbl>
	<000a01c80c12$ca4233a0$6400a8c0@OFFICE>
Message-ID: <BAY108-W3772B4AA6ADD204CEEB7C4C8A70@phx.gbl>

Thanks Bob, Alan, David,
I will look at all those suggestions.  Bob when you say the adapter will look
incorrect relative to the block when it is installed correctly could be the
reason that the starter did not have enough room to come out.  That little
slant that I believe you're talking about could be just enough to allow the
starter to pass by.

I'm going out right now to put things back together.  Will let you know if I
need more help.

Thanks,

George> From: autofarm at cyg.net> To: haywoodone at hotmail.com> Subject: Re:
[Healeys] spin on oil filter with no oil in it upon removal> Date: Thu, 11 Oct
2007 10:26:59 -0400> > George, it sounds as though the spin on adaptor is on
upside down. The > holes will line up, but because of the non return valve in
the filter , it > wont allow oil to ciculate through the filter. The base
plate, when mounted > correctly, will look incorrect, relative to the block.
And the starter > should come off without removing the filter.>
Cheers.......Bob
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail and Microsoft Office Outlook  together at last.  Get it
now.
http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/outlook/HA102225181033.aspx?pid=CL100626971
033

From bj7healey at gto.net  Thu Oct 11 09:19:13 2007
From: bj7healey at gto.net (Healey List)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 11:19:13 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Bj7 Mufflers
References: <772031.81523.qm@web83310.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<004501c8078b$733d60b0$04000100@robs>
Message-ID: <001101c80c1a$16805010$6400a8c0@robs>

        Hi Everyone on the List
                  This is to let you know that the muffler I got last spring 
was from " Victoria British " and I phoned them this am
and told them my problem and was told would send me a new one at NO CHARGE 
and no Questions Asked. So will really " recommend them as a place for 
customer satisfaction ".
                                             Bob Slater  1963 BJ7


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Healey List" <bj7healey at gto.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2007 4:08 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bj7 Mufflers


>    I had a stainless steel system for about 6 years. Then last spring I 
> had
> to change the muffler as it had a loss baffle and became very noisy. The 
> new
> muffler ( Not stainless ) has only lasted the summer and now it also has a
> loss baffle that is also noisy.
>    Does anyone recomment a good quality muffler for our cars that will 
> last
> ?
>
>                                         Bob Slater
>                                           1963 BJ7      rob at gto.net
> _______________________________________________
> bj7healey at gto.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.1/1051 - Release Date: 
> 05/10/2007 12:27 PM

From quenty at ntelos.net  Thu Oct 11 12:25:48 2007
From: quenty at ntelos.net (Dave Schweninger)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 14:25:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Tri-Carb Numbers
Message-ID: <4A6FF724-F6C6-42C9-8C7D-CBEE30C6581A@ntelos.net>

Bill,
It would be interesting to Merge your BN7, BT7, and what ever BJ7  
files you have and then sort by Serial number and perhaps Body  
number. We might see interesting patterns develop in paint and the  
other numbers.
What do you think?
Dave

From MBran89793 at aol.com  Thu Oct 11 12:45:03 2007
From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 14:45:03 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] A SNEAK Preview of Friday Funnies
Message-ID: <beb.1d0d2b4c.343fc92f@aol.com>

Three  Rednecks were working high up on a cell phone tower - Fred, Greg, and  
Cooter.
 
As they  start their descent, Cooter slips, falls off the tower and is killed 
 instantly.
 
As the  ambulance takes the body away, Greg says, "Well, damn, someone should 
go and  tell his wife."
 
Fred says,  "OK, I'm pretty good at that sensitive stuff, I'll do  it."
 
Two hours  later, he comes back carrying a case of Budweiser. Greg says, 
"Where did  you get that beer, Fred?"
 
"Cooter's  wife gave it to me," Fred replies.
 
"That's  unbelievable, you told the lady her husband was dead and she gave 
you  beer?"
 
Well, not  exactly", Fred says. "When she answered the door, I said to  her,
 
'You must  be Cooter's widow'."
 
She said,  "You must be mistaken, I'm not a widow."....
 
then I said  "I'll bet you a case of Budweiser you are."
 
Rednecks  Are Good At Sensitive Stuff........







************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From rkorn at simnet.is  Thu Oct 11 12:48:06 2007
From: rkorn at simnet.is (Richard Korn)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 18:48:06 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys in Berlin
Message-ID: <000a01c80c37$42bfa690$4001a8c0@velad>

Thanks all for the comments and Josef for some great info. I could use a few
extra days for my trip.

rgds, Richard

56BN2

From edwjkeuer at comcast.net  Thu Oct 11 13:01:06 2007
From: edwjkeuer at comcast.net (edwjkeuer at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 19:01:06 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] No Oil in the Spin off filter
Message-ID: <101120071901.11508.470E72F20002C30E00002CF422007610649D0A9A0A0506990B0A@comcast.net>

Hi Everyone,

I'm a new Healey owner, as as such and as many of you know, have much to learn. But...when I investigated changing my original filter to spin-on, our local restorer here in the Midwest told me to keep the original. He explained that with spin-on filters the oil pressure generated is "not sufficient" and he therefore doesn't like them.

For what that's worth...let's see what the "doctors" think.
Edw. J. Keuer
Wheaton, IL
'66 BJ8

From quenty at ntelos.net  Thu Oct 11 13:14:44 2007
From: quenty at ntelos.net (Dave Schweninger)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 15:14:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Tri-Carb Numbers
In-Reply-To: <144DA38E-6705-4680-91C0-0820307228DA@gmail.com>
References: <4A6FF724-F6C6-42C9-8C7D-CBEE30C6581A@ntelos.net>
	<144DA38E-6705-4680-91C0-0820307228DA@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E0EB1CA6-B4F1-4DAF-8BD2-4E1BCDC8F22B@ntelos.net>

Randy,
Bill has a number of files, three I think, with all the build  
information. I think merging these files would show all the  
Information he has. It would also interesting to sort by build dates.

Dave

On Oct 11, 2007, at 2:41 PM, Randy Hicks wrote:

> Also be interesting to add build dates.
>
> Randy Hicks
>
>
> On Oct 11, 2007, at 2:25 PM, Dave Schweninger wrote:
>
>> Bill,
>> It would be interesting to Merge your BN7, BT7, and what ever BJ7
>> files you have and then sort by Serial number and perhaps Body
>> number. We might see interesting patterns develop in paint and the
>> other numbers.
>> What do you think?
>> Dave
>> _______________________________________________

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Thu Oct 11 13:28:52 2007
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 15:28:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] spin on oil filter with no oil in it upon removal
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0710110649s51c31806ta5fa645c298d9ded@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BAY108-W4DE7C1E142930AF92F43CC8A70@phx.gbl>
	<ff59076c0710110649s51c31806ta5fa645c298d9ded@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY108-W2885D95376FFC442F632E2C8A70@phx.gbl>

Alan,
Well I turned the filter adapter around and oil came out of the center hole.
I have now found that the oil should come out of the side hole into the oil
filter and then back to the block through the center hole.  I changed the
adapter back and there is oil coming out of the side hole.  I put the same old
filter back on and spun the engine then removed the filter to find it full of
oil.  I don't know what the problem was but it is now working normally.  I
have put a new filter on and will run it for a while then check the filter to
see if it has been filtering.  Maybe there was something blocking the hole or
as you say the anti drain valve may have been stuck and I freed it up by
tapping on it or something.
Thanks for your suggestions, I have learned a little more about Healey's
today.
George > Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 21:49:16 +0800> From: healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: haywoodone at hotmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [Healeys]
spin on oil filter with no oil in it upon removal> > George -> > Turn over the
motor with the solenoid push button and the ignition> off. Do this with the
oil filter off and see if oil spurts out. If> nothing take the adaptor off and
try again to see if oil spurts out.> Doing this will help you figure out if
there's a gasket problem or if> it's something more insidious.> > The only
other thing I can think of ids maybe you had an oil filter> with a defective
anti-drainback valve that was sealed shut. Try also> replacing the oil
filter.> > Alan>
_________________________________________________________________
Boo! Scare away worms, viruses and so much more! Try Windows Live OneCare!
http://onecare.live.com/standard/en-us/purchase/trial.aspx?s_cid=wl_hotmailne
ws

From britishcars at shaw.ca  Thu Oct 11 13:28:15 2007
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 12:28:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] No Oil in the Spin off filter
In-Reply-To: <101120071901.11508.470E72F20002C30E00002CF422007610649D0A9A0A0506990B0A@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <006101c80c3c$ded1c680$0e02a8c0@ecarecenters.net>

I noted no difference in oil pressure when I converted.

The way I look at it is that because spin-on is so much easier to use, you
will change your oil more often....this will greatly enhance the value of
the engine.

Do an oil change using your canister type filter and you will know what I
mean.

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+britishcars=shaw.ca at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+britishcars=shaw.ca at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
edwjkeuer at comcast.net
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 12:01 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] No Oil in the Spin off filter

Hi Everyone,

I'm a new Healey owner, as as such and as many of you know, have much to
learn. But...when I investigated changing my original filter to spin-on, our
local restorer here in the Midwest told me to keep the original. He
explained that with spin-on filters the oil pressure generated is "not
sufficient" and he therefore doesn't like them.

For what that's worth...let's see what the "doctors" think.
Edw. J. Keuer
Wheaton, IL
'66 BJ8
_______________________________________________
britishcars at shaw.ca 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From dan at warner-associates.com  Thu Oct 11 13:50:41 2007
From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 14:50:41 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] No Oil in the Spin off filter
In-Reply-To: <006101c80c3c$ded1c680$0e02a8c0@ecarecenters.net>
Message-ID: <001401c80c40$00da5cd0$3500000a@warner.com>

If you want to stay original, I found it must easier to change the canister
type filter by removing the whole unit right from the engine block.
Swapping out the filter and getting a good seal with the rubber washer
around the canister was quicker and easier using this method.  However, I
sure it is more of a time consuming job then changing a spin-on type filter.
Regards,
Dan

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of PG
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 2:28 PM
To: edwjkeuer at comcast.net; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] No Oil in the Spin off filter

I noted no difference in oil pressure when I converted.

The way I look at it is that because spin-on is so much easier to use, you
will change your oil more often....this will greatly enhance the value of
the engine.

Do an oil change using your canister type filter and you will know what I
mean.

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+britishcars=shaw.ca at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+britishcars=shaw.ca at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
edwjkeuer at comcast.net
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 12:01 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] No Oil in the Spin off filter

Hi Everyone,

I'm a new Healey owner, as as such and as many of you know, have much to
learn. But...when I investigated changing my original filter to spin-on, our
local restorer here in the Midwest told me to keep the original. He
explained that with spin-on filters the oil pressure generated is "not
sufficient" and he therefore doesn't like them.

For what that's worth...let's see what the "doctors" think.
Edw. J. Keuer
Wheaton, IL
'66 BJ8
_______________________________________________
britishcars at shaw.ca 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
_______________________________________________
dan at warner-associates.com 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From david at bighealey.ltd.uk  Thu Oct 11 14:22:56 2007
From: david at bighealey.ltd.uk (David Ward)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 21:22:56 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 rear disc conversion
References: <470D4FAA.1000301@iinet.net.au>
Message-ID: <000401c80c44$83fb8ef0$cfb60f56@bighealey>

Hello Noel,
to acquire the necessary leverage to operate the handbrake on the Girling 
calipers you have to extend the arms on the original bell crank assembly, I 
had a number of these cast up years ago but I think that they have all been 
used up by now however it should be quite a simple operation for you 
fellow's to fabricate something up.
>From memory I believe that they were extended about three quarters of one 
inch [ just a little bit makes all the difference].
Good Luck.
Regards.
David.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Noel Standfast" <hstandfa at iinet.net.au>
To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 11:18 PM
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 rear disc conversion


> Hi all
>
> I have a mate who is restoring a BJ7 and as he is not on the net I am
> seeking some help for him.  He is trying to install the Dennis Welch
> rear disc brake conversion.  Does anyone have a digital photo of how the
> brake compensator and rod is set up?  When we dummy up the short brake
> rod to the XJ6 caliper, the angle of the dangle seems all wrong and we
> can't see how the rod can pull the hand brake lever effectively.  Does
> the rod get modified or bent?  Any suggestions or photos greatly 
> appreciated
>
> Noel Standfast
> AHOC of Qld
> _______________________________________________

From trhouse at greenapple.com  Thu Oct 11 15:56:33 2007
From: trhouse at greenapple.com (Tom Householder)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 17:56:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Lockheed hose interchange
Message-ID: <C3341451.1661%trhouse@greenapple.com>

Anyone out there got a lockheed interchange book
looking for KL070804 front brake hose
Thanks
T

From trhouse at greenapple.com  Thu Oct 11 16:01:15 2007
From: trhouse at greenapple.com (Tom Householder)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 18:01:15 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Lockheed hose interchange correction
In-Reply-To: <C3341451.1661%trhouse@greenapple.com>
Message-ID: <C334156B.1663%trhouse@greenapple.com>

on 10/11/07 5:56 PM, Tom Householder at trhouse at greenapple.com wrote:

Typed an extra number in the hose number
 KL07804
> Anyone out there got a lockheed interchange book
> looking for KL07804 front brake hose
> Thanks
> T

From 63AHBJ7 at comcast.net  Thu Oct 11 17:37:56 2007
From: 63AHBJ7 at comcast.net (63AHBJ7)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 18:37:56 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] No Oil in the Spin off filter
References: <001401c80c40$00da5cd0$3500000a@warner.com>
Message-ID: <039c01c80c5f$c0659b90$6601a8c0@actualshop>

<<If you want to stay original, I found it must easier to change the canister
type filter by removing the whole unit right from the engine block.>>

TOTALLY agree, Dan.  'Course "heaven" is having a second full set-up
(correctly painted<G>) ready to go (like I have for Hortense)!!!<VBG>!!

Ed

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Thu Oct 11 19:00:27 2007
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 21:00:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] County water pumps
Message-ID: <470EC72B.1030108@earthlink.net>

Folks,

After 3,000 miles the County water pump in my 62 BT7 needs replacing.  I'm 
guessing the bearings are shot - it rumbles at 1000 rpm and I can wiggle 
the fan blades (at 0 rpm) and watch the pulley rock.

The spare in the boot is also a County.  So I'm wondering if I'm going to 
have to replace it in another year or so?  Have there been other problems 
with the County water pumps?  Is there a better pump available?

Is anyone rebuilding pumps?

Bob

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Thu Oct 11 19:12:41 2007
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 21:12:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Spin on oil filter saga
Message-ID: <BAY108-W288EB16FF5CEC690D5CA08C8A00@phx.gbl>

Thanks to those who helped me today with my oil filter questions.  Things ran
very well on my evening drive after putting the car all back together.  There
must have been something wrong with the oil filter that was originally on the
car.  I have a new one on and when I drove around this evening the oil
pressure was up to 55-60 when I started it up and ran about 50 when warmed to
operating temp at about 40 MPH.

Thanks again,
George '65 bj8
_________________________________________________________________
Help yourself to FREE treats served up daily at the Messenger Cafi. Stop by
today.
http://www.cafemessenger.com/info/info_sweetstuff2.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_OctWLt
agline

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Thu Oct 11 19:14:11 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 20:14:11 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] County water pumps
References: <470EC72B.1030108@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <012e01c80c6d$32aaebd0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>

Reply on list please, others of us who have just put on County pumps would 
be interested in the answer as well.

Greg Lemon
54 BN1

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Oct 11 19:23:35 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 09:23:35 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] County water pumps
In-Reply-To: <470EC72B.1030108@earthlink.net>
References: <470EC72B.1030108@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0710111823l43a9e3efo61084eb9805fbc3f@mail.gmail.com>

Bob -

Get rebuilt pumps from Bill Bolton, he does them right.  In addition I
think he will also rebuild yours if you are so inclined.

Alan


On 10/12/07, Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net> wrote:
> Folks,
>
> After 3,000 miles the County water pump in my 62 BT7 needs replacing.  I'm
> guessing the bearings are shot - it rumbles at 1000 rpm and I can wiggle
> the fan blades (at 0 rpm) and watch the pulley rock.
>
> The spare in the boot is also a County.  So I'm wondering if I'm going to
> have to replace it in another year or so?  Have there been other problems
> with the County water pumps?  Is there a better pump available?
>
> Is anyone rebuilding pumps?
>
> Bob

From mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net  Thu Oct 11 20:18:37 2007
From: mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net (Mark and Kathy)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 22:18:37 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] County water pumps
References: <470EC72B.1030108@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <001c01c80c76$49a6c6c0$e4348304@markl946cfrd7q>

Hey Bob  could you state what company your  County pump came from.  I'm 
curious whether or not I have one on my car that I haven't broken in yet.

Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Haskell" <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 9:00 PM
Subject: [Healeys] County water pumps


> Folks,
>
> After 3,000 miles the County water pump in my 62 BT7 needs replacing.  I'm
> guessing the bearings are shot - it rumbles at 1000 rpm and I can wiggle
> the fan blades (at 0 rpm) and watch the pulley rock.
>
> The spare in the boot is also a County.  So I'm wondering if I'm going to
> have to replace it in another year or so?  Have there been other problems
> with the County water pumps?  Is there a better pump available?
>
> Is anyone rebuilding pumps?
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Oct 11 21:03:16 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 22:03:16 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  County water pumps
Message-ID: <02b501c80c7c$704dbd00$6601a8c0@actualshop>

Bob:

Although a] I did not sell either to you; and b] I do not know the vendor, I
am BCCing this post to the Q.C. Gent at Moss.  I am pretty sure he is not even
on the digest form of this List so I would expect that his reply will come to
me directly.
I WILL forward his reply INTACT to the List.  Hope this will help.

Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates    AH BJ 7    )
Proprietor
*****************************************************************************
************
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Haskell
To: healeylist
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 8:00 PM
Subject: [Healeys] County water pumps


Folks,

After 3,000 miles the County water pump in my 62 BT7 needs replacing.  I'm
guessing the bearings are shot - it rumbles at 1000 rpm and I can wiggle
the fan blades (at 0 rpm) and watch the pulley rock.

The spare in the boot is also a County.  So I'm wondering if I'm going to
have to replace it in another year or so?  Have there been other problems
with the County water pumps?  Is there a better pump available?

Is anyone rebuilding pumps?

Bob

From lgalper1 at cox.net  Thu Oct 11 21:16:04 2007
From: lgalper1 at cox.net (Lou G)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 20:16:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] County Water Pumps
In-Reply-To: <mailman.23306.1192155579.12556.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.23306.1192155579.12556.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <470EE6F4.9030404@cox.net>

On the BN1, I fitted the County pump, but discovered the fan pulley 
would not snug down to the pump without binding.
I thought I could live without tightening the nut too tight, with some 
loctite applied to the threads, but NO, the car cannot live with that.
I've now taken the radiator out, again, to take the pump and pulley to 
our local Healey mechanic.

Lou
BN1
San Diego AH Club

>>Folks,
>>
>>After 3,000 miles the County water pump in my 62 BT7 needs replacing.  I'm
>>guessing the bearings are shot - it rumbles at 1000 rpm and I can wiggle
>>the fan blades (at 0 rpm) and watch the pulley rock.
>>
>>
>>Bob
>>_______________________________________________

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Thu Oct 11 21:44:27 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 22:44:27 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] County Water Pumps
References: <mailman.23306.1192155579.12556.healeys@autox.team.net>
	<470EE6F4.9030404@cox.net>
Message-ID: <000801c80c82$30a412c0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>

" On the BN1, I fitted the County pump, but discovered the fan pulley would 
not snug down to the pump without binding.

> Lou
> BN1
> San Diego AH Club"

Mine did not have that problem, fit a couple of months ago, it did however 
leak (spew would be more apt) out of a screw in plug fitting under pressure, 
no amount of tightening helped, teflon tape did, but this item came 
pre-assembled and presumably ready to go.

Between your experience and mine sounds like they have some QC issues.

Greg Lemon
54 BN1

From lgalper1 at cox.net  Fri Oct 12 00:07:47 2007
From: lgalper1 at cox.net (Lou G)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 23:07:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] County Water Pumps
In-Reply-To: <000801c80c82$30a412c0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
References: <mailman.23306.1192155579.12556.healeys@autox.team.net>
	<470EE6F4.9030404@cox.net>
	<000801c80c82$30a412c0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
Message-ID: <470F0F33.4010003@cox.net>

Oh yeah, my pump also has a rusty trail from water leaking from the plug.
I think it sealed itself---ha,ha !!
This pump has about 300 miles on it.

Lou


>
> " On the BN1, I fitted the County pump, but discovered the fan pulley 
> would not snug down to the pump without binding. "
>
> Mine did not have that problem, fit a couple of months ago, it did 
> however leak (spew would be more apt) out of a screw in plug fitting 
> under pressure, no amount of tightening helped, teflon tape did, but 
> this item came pre-assembled and presumably ready to go.
>
> Between your experience and mine sounds like they have some QC issues.
>
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1

From geatros at shaw.ca  Fri Oct 12 01:51:59 2007
From: geatros at shaw.ca (geatros)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 00:51:59 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Country Water Pumps
Message-ID: <000d01c80ca4$c50ecaf0$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>

I installed a Country water pump on a 100-6 that lasted less than 300 miles.

Cheers
Kenny

From hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu  Fri Oct 12 04:31:13 2007
From: hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu (Michael Hartfield)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 03:31:13 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Welding the Shroud
Message-ID: <C3349B01.2188%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>

I have four pieces of shroud surrounding the grille, the right hand
headlight and above the right fender.  Welding these pieces will be a
challenge.  Any suggestions as to how they should be set in place to achieve
the best fit?  Should they be fit together on the car, or on the table?  Are
there any tricks one should be aware of to make this successful?
Thanks in advance for your knowledge.

Michael Hartfield '65 BJ8

From mkgoodman at worldnet.att.net  Fri Oct 12 05:05:06 2007
From: mkgoodman at worldnet.att.net (Mark Goodman)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 07:05:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW: 1960 BN6 for sale
Message-ID: <000901c80cbf$c0e1ced0$42a56c70$@att.net>

I found the following in a local "Pennysaver"  magazine ( no financial
interest):

 

1960 Austin Healey 3000

Great running car with many extras.  Custom canvas toneau cover and original
factory hardtop.  New wire wheels with new Michelin tires.  Upgraded brakes
and suspension.  Old English white with red interior.  Serviced by
Briarcliff Classic Import Motors for over 25 years.  Serious buyers only.
$30,000         914-747-1390    John     

From bluechipracing at snet.net  Fri Oct 12 06:57:52 2007
From: bluechipracing at snet.net (bluechip)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 08:57:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Welding the Shroud
References: <C3349B01.2188%hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
Message-ID: <007501c80ccf$809633b0$1f9bfea9@dell>

Here's how I would do it:  Review this process with your welder before you 
start.  Definitely fit up the peices on the car....fit the grill and fenders 
also.  Carefully cut the shroud peices so you have butt joints (your welder 
should tell you how large a gap he can fill).  Then once you are satisified 
with the fit and contour, fixture the shroud peices together mechanically 
(tiny clamps available from Eastwood or little temporary splices of aluminum 
using clicues, pop rivets or even little sheet metal screws) Then get your 
expert with a TIG welder finish the job.

I know an expert Aluminum welder in CT who is familiar with Healeys (he has 
actually done a job similar to yours).  I'll put you in touch if you wish.

Jim Smith


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael Hartfield" <hartfiel at alumni.princeton.edu>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 6:31 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Welding the Shroud


>I have four pieces of shroud surrounding the grille, the right hand
> headlight and above the right fender.  Welding these pieces will be a
> challenge.  Any suggestions as to how they should be set in place to 
> achieve
> the best fit?  Should they be fit together on the car, or on the table? 
> Are
> there any tricks one should be aware of to make this successful?
> Thanks in advance for your knowledge.
>
> Michael Hartfield '65 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> bluechipracing at snet.net

From scott at scottjgraham.com  Fri Oct 12 07:06:08 2007
From: scott at scottjgraham.com (Scott J Graham)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 23:06:08 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] SPIN -ON UPSIDE DOWN
Message-ID: <005301c80cd0$a9236860$0200a8c0@yourpdnds2yigt>

Hi George



He is right.  I matched mine to the block without proper reference to the
holes/ functional design and ended up with it back to front  zero oil
pressure!!  When mounted correctly, it hangs awkwardly off the bottom of the
block!



Scott Graham

BJ7



Thanks Bob, Alan, David,

I will look at all those suggestions.  Bob when you say the adapter will
look incorrect relative to the block when it is installed correctly could be
the reason that the starter did not have enough room to come out.  That
little slant that I believe you're talking about could be just enough to
allow the starter to pass by.



I'm going out right now to put things back together.  Will let you know if I
need more help.



Thanks,



George> From: autofarm at cyg.net> To: haywoodone at hotmail.com> Subject: Re:

[Healeys] spin on oil filter with no oil in it upon removal> Date: Thu, 11
Oct

2007 10:26:59 -0400> > George, it sounds as though the spin on adaptor is on
upside down. The > holes will line up, but because of the non return valve
in the filter , it > wont allow oil to ciculate through the filter. The base
plate, when mounted > correctly, will look incorrect, relative to the block.


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.8/1064 - Release Date: 11/10/2007
3:09 PM

From fredwescoe at windstream.net  Fri Oct 12 09:55:39 2007
From: fredwescoe at windstream.net (Fred Wescoe)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 11:55:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Water pumps
Message-ID: <003a01c80ce8$567e4180$6500a8c0@D10F7N31>

Listers,

There has been a lot of discussion on replacement water pumps and who has the
best.  Some good information passed along.

I had mine rebuilt years ago by a tractor sales and supply place.  I was told
and this place confirmed that the pump is the same as that used on a Massey
Ferguson tractor.  It uses all Massey Ferguson parts.

So, those of you near a tractor sales or parts place, have your pump rebuilt.
Mine took about an hour and has lasted many years and still is "original".

This is good info if you are out on the road and need one when you break down
in the "middle of nowhere".

Fred
63 BJ7

From autofarm at cyg.net  Fri Oct 12 11:28:41 2007
From: autofarm at cyg.net (Bob Yule)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 13:28:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Water pumps
References: <003a01c80ce8$567e4180$6500a8c0@D10F7N31>
Message-ID: <000401c80cf5$56bb85b0$6400a8c0@OFFICE>

    Since Massey Ferguson  produced dozens of different models, it would 
help if there was some hint of which model we should look for, because the 
first thing the parts man will ask is "year and model".    Also, MF 
disappeared several years ago, and parts are increasingly difficult to find. 
If the tractor that the water pump was from, is more than 15-20 years old, 
then the likelyhood of finding parts is practicaly nil.  The MF machinery 
that is new today is simply badged that way.
Cheers.......Bob
Check out our web site www.autofarm.net
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe at windstream.net>
To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 11:55 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Water pumps


> Listers,
>
> There has been a lot of discussion on replacement water pumps and who has 
> the
> best.  Some good information passed along.
>
> I had mine rebuilt years ago by a tractor sales and supply place.  I was 
> told
> and this place confirmed that the pump is the same as that used on a 
> Massey
> Ferguson tractor.  It uses all Massey Ferguson parts.
>
> So, those of you near a tractor sales or parts place, have your pump 
> rebuilt.
> Mine took about an hour and has lasted many years and still is "original".
>
> This is good info if you are out on the road and need one when you break 
> down
> in the "middle of nowhere".
>
> Fred
> 63 BJ7
> _______________________________________________
> autofarm at cyg.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.8/1064 - Release Date: 
> 10/11/2007 3:09 PM

From fredwescoe at windstream.net  Fri Oct 12 11:50:31 2007
From: fredwescoe at windstream.net (Fred Wescoe)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 13:50:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Water pumps
References: <003a01c80ce8$567e4180$6500a8c0@D10F7N31>
	<000401c80cf5$56bb85b0$6400a8c0@OFFICE>
Message-ID: <004301c80cf8$622ce030$6500a8c0@D10F7N31>

Bob,

I simply walked in with the pump and handed it to the guy behind the 
counter.  He looked at it for a few seconds and pronounced it a MF pump.  He 
told me to go have lunch and be back in an hour.  I did, he had rebuilt the 
pump and charged me $20.

It never occurred to me to ask him how he knew or what model or any other 
info.

I just did a Google search and parts seem to be available in many parts of 
the country.

Fred
63 BJ7

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Yule" <autofarm at cyg.net>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe at windstream.net>; <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 1:28 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Water pumps


>    Since Massey Ferguson  produced dozens of different models, it would 
> help if there was some hint of which model we should look for, because the 
> first thing the parts man will ask is "year and model".    Also, MF 
> disappeared several years ago, and parts are increasingly difficult to 
> find. If the tractor that the water pump was from, is more than 15-20 
> years old, then the likelyhood of finding parts is practicaly nil.  The MF 
> machinery that is new today is simply badged that way.
> Cheers.......Bob
> Check out our web site www.autofarm.net
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe at windstream.net>
> To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 11:55 AM
> Subject: [Healeys] Water pumps
>
>
>> Listers,
>>
>> There has been a lot of discussion on replacement water pumps and who has 
>> the
>> best.  Some good information passed along.
>>
>> I had mine rebuilt years ago by a tractor sales and supply place.  I was 
>> told
>> and this place confirmed that the pump is the same as that used on a 
>> Massey
>> Ferguson tractor.  It uses all Massey Ferguson parts.
>>
>> So, those of you near a tractor sales or parts place, have your pump 
>> rebuilt.
>> Mine took about an hour and has lasted many years and still is 
>> "original".
>>
>> This is good info if you are out on the road and need one when you break 
>> down
>> in the "middle of nowhere".
>>
>> Fred
>> 63 BJ7
>> _______________________________________________
>> autofarm at cyg.net
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.8/1064 - Release Date: 
>> 10/11/2007 3:09 PM

From MBran89793 at aol.com  Fri Oct 12 12:42:01 2007
From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 14:42:01 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funnies
Message-ID: <c42.1bb7ab3e.344119f9@aol.com>

Defective  Parrot

A man is browsing in a pet shop and sees a parrot sitting on a  little   
perch. It doesn't have any feet or legs. The guy says  aloud,  "Golly, I   wonder 
what happened to this  parrot?"

The parrot says, "I was born this way. I'm a defective parrot."  "Holy crap," 
the guy replies. "You actually understood and answered  me!"

"I got every word," says the parrot. "I happen to be a  highly intelligent, 
thoroughly educated bird."  "Oh yeah?" the man  asks, "Then answer this -- how 
do you hang onto your perch without any  feet?"

"Well," the parrot says, "this is very embarrassing but since  you asked,  I 
wrap my weenie around this wood en bar like a little  hook. You can't  see it 
because of my feathers."
 

"Wow," says the guy.  "You really can understand and speak English can't 
you?" "Actually, I speak both  Spanish and English, and I can converse with 
reasonable competence on  almost any topic: politics,  religion, sports,  physics, 
philosophy.  I'm especially good at  ornithology. You really ought to buy me. 
I'd  be a great companion."

The man looks at the $200.00 price tag. "Sorry,  but I just can't afford   
that."  "Pssssssst," says the parrot,  "I'm defective, so the truth is, nobody 
wants me 'cause I don't have any feet.  You can probably get me for $20, just 
make the guy an offer!" The  man offers $20 and walks out with the parrot.

Weeks go by. The parrot is  sensational. He has a great sense of humor,  he's 
interesting, he's a great  pal, he understands  everything, he sympathizes, 
and he's insightful .  The man is  delighted.
One day the man comes home from work and the  parrot goes, "Psssssssssssst," 
and motions him over with one wing. "I don't  know if I should tell you this 
or not, but it's about your wife and  the
postman."  "What are you talking about?" asks the man. "When the  postman 
delivered the mail today, your wife greeted him at the door in a  sheer black 
nightie."
 
"WHAT???" the guy  says incredulously. "THEN what happened?"  "Well, then the 
postman came  into the house and lifted up her nightie and began petting her 
all over,"  reported the parrot.

"NO!" he exclaims. "And she let him?"   "Yes.  Then he continued taking off 
the nightie, got down on his   knees  and began to kiss her all over...."  Then 
the frantic man  screams, "THEN WHAT HAPPENED?"
 
~{!1~}Damned if I  know. I got an erection and fell off my perch!~{!1

 



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From comkanuk at cgocable.ca  Fri Oct 12 13:08:43 2007
From: comkanuk at cgocable.ca (gilbert gauthier)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 15:08:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] test delete
Message-ID: <B2E68950-8952-4536-A61C-808D84B6BB62@cgocable.ca>

test delete

From MBran89793 at aol.com  Fri Oct 12 13:29:26 2007
From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 15:29:26 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Water pumps
Message-ID: <bd5.1a391b53.34412516@aol.com>

(He looked at it for a few seconds and pronounced  it a MF pump.)


 
 
HI FRED-
 
You said that it had been several years since this occurred. Are you quite  
sure the parts person was referring to it as a Massey Ferguson water pump or 
did  he just say a "MF" pump? LOL
 
 



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Oct 12 16:31:17 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 17:31:17 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Water pumps
In-Reply-To: <bd5.1a391b53.34412516@aol.com>
References: <bd5.1a391b53.34412516@aol.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0710121531u34c004a4p7372ec7086b4d85d@mail.gmail.com>

You mean MF County pump...

Ha ha, nice one.


On 10/13/07, MBran89793 at aol.com <MBran89793 at aol.com> wrote:
> (He looked at it for a few seconds and pronounced  it a MF pump.)
>
>
>
>
> HI FRED-
>
> You said that it had been several years since this occurred. Are you quite
> sure the parts person was referring to it as a Massey Ferguson water pump or
> did  he just say a "MF" pump? LOL
>
>
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Fri Oct 12 17:14:44 2007
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Leonard  Hartnett)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 16:14:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Water pumps
In-Reply-To: <004301c80cf8$622ce030$6500a8c0@D10F7N31>
References: <003a01c80ce8$567e4180$6500a8c0@D10F7N31><000401c80cf5$56bb85b0$6400a8c0@OFFICE>
	<004301c80cf8$622ce030$6500a8c0@D10F7N31>
Message-ID: <88FC5477F061400EACDC26495824072C@LeonardPC>

"...years ago..." that person behind the counter could probably look at an 
item and tell you what it was and maybe even the part number and most 
applications it applied to.  Today, you hand that product to the person 
behind the counter and he might ask, "What is this?".  If you can't tell him 
the year, make, model, and part name, he won't be able to access the 
computer and therefore won't be able to help you.

I found this out when I tried to buy some spark plugs (not for the Healey). 
I told him the brand and the plug number (from the owner's manual and shop 
manual) that I wanted and he insisted on looking it up in the computer.  He 
went to the shelves and brought back the wrong plugs.  He tried to convince 
me that I was wrong and the computer correct.  Wrong response!  I insisted 
he go back and get the plugs I asked for.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville,  California,  USA
1967 3000 MKIII, HBJ8L39031 

From healeyray at yahoo.com  Fri Oct 12 20:53:52 2007
From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 19:53:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Water pumps
In-Reply-To: <88FC5477F061400EACDC26495824072C@LeonardPC>
Message-ID: <445267.37341.qm@web55214.mail.re4.yahoo.com>

Len 
    At least he could read and write English!
Ray Juncal

Leonard  Hartnett <thehartnetts at earthlink.net> wrote: "...years ago..." that person behind the counter could probably look at an 
item and tell you what it was and maybe even the part number and most 
applications it applied to.  Today, you hand that product to the person 
behind the counter and he might ask, "What is this?".  If you can't tell him 
the year, make, model, and part name, he won't be able to access the 
computer and therefore won't be able to help you.

I found this out when I tried to buy some spark plugs (not for the Healey). 
I told him the brand and the plug number (from the owner's manual and shop 
manual) that I wanted and he insisted on looking it up in the computer.  He 
went to the shelves and brought back the wrong plugs.  He tried to convince 
me that I was wrong and the computer correct.  Wrong response!  I insisted 
he go back and get the plugs I asked for.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville,  California,  USA
1967 3000 MKIII, HBJ8L39031 


       
---------------------------------
Fussy? Opinionated? Impossible to please? Perfect.  Join Yahoo!'s user panel and lay it on us.

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Fri Oct 12 22:13:08 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 23:13:08 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Water pumps (Parts Counter)
References: <445267.37341.qm@web55214.mail.re4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <008d01c80d4f$5d1788a0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>

Most of the chain stores seem to be guilty as charged (lost if you don't 
give them make and model), and for the most part chain stores are all you 
find these days, at least in my town.  The NAPA stores are an exception, as 
they have often given me the option of looking at various parts more 
generically to find out what will match my needs.

Not exactly the same thing, but I was very pleased when I went to NAPA with 
a request for the (list supplied) NAPA Gold Healey cannister type oil 
filter.  Didn't have it in stock, but had it by the end of the day,seemed to 
be well made too.

Greg Lemon
54 BN1 

From wericars at aol.com  Sat Oct 13 07:38:56 2007
From: wericars at aol.com (wericars at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 09:38:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum door frame trim panels
Message-ID: <8C9DBB589D0BEBB-140-3AC5@WEBMAIL-STG-D01.sysops.aol.com>

Hello list.

Does anyone have tips or instructions for installing new aluminum trim panels?? The new ones are clearly larger (longer) than they need to be, and I no longer have my old ones to use as a template.


Bill
Boston area
65 BJ8

________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From edic at tampabay.rr.com  Sat Oct 13 07:42:04 2007
From: edic at tampabay.rr.com (edic)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 09:42:04 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time)
Subject: [Healeys] Import Duty
Message-ID: <4710CB2B.000003.01348@YOUR-55E5F9E3D2>

 I am planning to buy a complete upholstery set including carpets from AH
Spares.  Has anyone had experience with them on upholstery and can give me
feedback. Also, I realize the dollar is dropping like a flying crowbar and
the freight is not cheap, but are there import duty fees applicable as well.


Mel Brunet
HBJ8L/ 39749
Land O Lakes, FL

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of newimage.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of elephant_en.gif]

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sat Oct 13 09:05:50 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 10:05:50 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Import Duty
References: <4710CB2B.000003.01348@YOUR-55E5F9E3D2>
Message-ID: <00a201c80daa$8bc7aee0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>

I'll take a tab at this, other may have more or different experiences, I 
have ordered parts from overseas maybe half a dozen times, orders usually 
totalling in the $100-$600 dollar range.

Never have been charged for customs or import duty.

My brother is also an British car guy and he says he has been charged 
customs once or twice, but usually not.

I have never been able to figure out the rhyme or reason as to when they do 
and when they don't.  But I don't worry about it.

Greg Lemon
54 BN1

From edriver at sasktel.net  Sat Oct 13 09:11:33 2007
From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 09:11:33 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Import Duty
In-Reply-To: <00a201c80daa$8bc7aee0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
References: <4710CB2B.000003.01348@YOUR-55E5F9E3D2>
	<00a201c80daa$8bc7aee0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
Message-ID: <4710E025.50705@sasktel.net>

Hi Greg

The USA may have the same ruling  as we have in Canada. Cars considered
antique or beyond a certain age there no duty is charged on the parts.  Many of
the UK Suppliers automatically mark their shipments this way, my experience.

Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon

Greg Lemon wrote:

> I'll take a tab at this, other may have more or different experiences, I 
> have ordered parts from overseas maybe half a dozen times, orders usually 
> totalling in the $100-$600 dollar range.
> 
> Never have been charged for customs or import duty.
> 
> My brother is also an British car guy and he says he has been charged 
> customs once or twice, but usually not.
> 
> I have never been able to figure out the rhyme or reason as to when they do 
> and when they don't.  But I don't worry about it.
> 
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1
> _______________________________________________
> edriver at sasktel.net 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From edriver at sasktel.net  Sat Oct 13 09:14:07 2007
From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 09:14:07 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Import Duty
In-Reply-To: <00a201c80daa$8bc7aee0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
References: <4710CB2B.000003.01348@YOUR-55E5F9E3D2>
	<00a201c80daa$8bc7aee0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
Message-ID: <4710E0BF.10205@sasktel.net>

Hi Greg

The USA may have the same ruling  as we have in Canada. Cars considered
antique or beyond a certain age there no duty is charged on the parts.  Many of
the UK Suppliers automatically mark their shipments this way, my experience.

Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon

P.S. Sorry we didn't make Lincoln NE we had some weather issues in the Black
        Hills

Greg Lemon wrote:

> I'll take a tab at this, other may have more or different experiences, I 
> have ordered parts from overseas maybe half a dozen times, orders usually 
> totalling in the $100-$600 dollar range.
> 
> Never have been charged for customs or import duty.
> 
> My brother is also an British car guy and he says he has been charged 
> customs once or twice, but usually not.
> 
> I have never been able to figure out the rhyme or reason as to when they do 
> and when they don't.  But I don't worry about it.
> 
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Sat Oct 13 09:29:02 2007
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 11:29:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Country Water Pumps
In-Reply-To: <000d01c80ca4$c50ecaf0$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>
Message-ID: <20071013153046.43616187A52@autox.team.net>

In defense of County products, I have had a county water pump on AHX12 now
for 4 years and despite immense abuse it has performed admirably...When one
considers the problems associated with rebuilding the 100 pump these
replacements have been a Godsend!!

Michael Salter
100S (1955)
3000 Mk111(1965)
100 (1953)
AHX12 (1953)
Bugeye (1961)
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of geatros
Sent: October 12, 2007 3:52 AM
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Country Water Pumps

I installed a Country water pump on a 100-6 that lasted less than 300 miles.

Cheers
Kenny
_______________________________________________

From helyjohn at cablespeed.com  Sat Oct 13 11:28:11 2007
From: helyjohn at cablespeed.com (John Snyder)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 09:28:11 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Import Duty
References: <4710CB2B.000003.01348@YOUR-55E5F9E3D2>
Message-ID: <001a01c80dbe$6f036560$f030eb42@FRED>

I bought a complete trunk lining interior for a BN7 from AH Spares.  It was 
very high quality, and included the wood "floor" w/ the Armacord installed.. 
Got nailed by US Customs for about $30 if I remember correctly.  Other small 
orders did not get any customs charged.

John Snyder

> I am planning to buy a complete upholstery set including carpets from AH
> Spares.  Has anyone had experience with them on upholstery and can give me
> feedback. Also, I realize the dollar is dropping like a flying crowbar and
> the freight is not cheap, but are there import duty fees applicable as 
> well.
>
>
> Mel Brunet
> HBJ8L/ 39749
> Land O Lakes, FL

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Sat Oct 13 12:30:07 2007
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 11:30:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] No Healey content  Lock Tabs or Loctite?
Message-ID: <001c01c80dc7$1504aca0$6501a8c0@XPS400>

Hello,   Getting ready to install the engine backing plate this morning
discovered that the lock tab set Moss sold me does not have the correct length
lock tabs for 8 of the bolts.  I could reuse the old ones but they don't look
so healthy.  Is it safe to just substitute high strength Loctite?

Thanks for any advise.

Ron Fine
66MGB
61 BN7

From britishcars at shaw.ca  Sat Oct 13 13:00:51 2007
From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 12:00:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Import Duty
In-Reply-To: <4710CB2B.000003.01348@YOUR-55E5F9E3D2>
Message-ID: <000e01c80dcb$5fb579b0$0e02a8c0@ecarecenters.net>

The key is to get it mailed to you....not shipped Fedex or UPS.

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+britishcars=shaw.ca at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+britishcars=shaw.ca at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
edic
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 6:42 AM
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Import Duty

 I am planning to buy a complete upholstery set including carpets from AH
Spares.  Has anyone had experience with them on upholstery and can give me
feedback. Also, I realize the dollar is dropping like a flying crowbar and
the freight is not cheap, but are there import duty fees applicable as well.


Mel Brunet
HBJ8L/ 39749
Land O Lakes, FL

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
newimage.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
elephant_en.gif]
_______________________________________________
britishcars at shaw.ca 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From linwoodrose at mac.com  Sat Oct 13 15:09:51 2007
From: linwoodrose at mac.com (linwood rose)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 17:09:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Smitty Conversion- Throw out bearing and arm
Message-ID: <EA5C9B0E-13D9-42C6-A286-48AAEF55F6AD@mac.com>

I am now installing the Smitty conversion to Toyota gearbox to the  
engine. In the photo below please see points where I assume one would  
use a thin coat of high temp grease. 1. the shaft that the throw-out  
bearing rides on and 2. The pivot ball that the arm rotates against.

Am I correct about this? Thanks.

http://gallery.mac.com/linwoodrose#100049/ 
clutch-20grease-20points&bgcolor=black


Lin
1960 BT7 in restoration
1959 Bugeye 

From craigsuerice at iquest.net  Fri Oct 12 19:09:13 2007
From: craigsuerice at iquest.net (Craig and Sue Rice)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 20:09:13 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  County water pumps
Message-ID: <00db01c80d35$acbaa500$8c632bd1@iquest.net>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Craig and Sue Rice" <craigsuerice at iquest.net>
To: "Bob Haskell" <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 12:58 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] County water pumps


> Bob,
> Peter Caldwell at World Wide Auto Parts is rebuilding water pumps using
> modern day innards.
> Craig Rice
> BN1 & BN2
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Bob Haskell" <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
> To: "healeylist" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 8:00 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] County water pumps
>
>
> > Folks,
> >
> > After 3,000 miles the County water pump in my 62 BT7 needs replacing.
I'm
> > guessing the bearings are shot - it rumbles at 1000 rpm and I can wiggle
> > the fan blades (at 0 rpm) and watch the pulley rock.
> >
> > The spare in the boot is also a County.  So I'm wondering if I'm going
to
> > have to replace it in another year or so?  Have there been other
problems
> > with the County water pumps?  Is there a better pump available?
> >
> > Is anyone rebuilding pumps?
> >
> > Bob
> > _______________________________________________

From NPaul72464 at aol.com  Sat Oct 13 16:15:18 2007
From: NPaul72464 at aol.com (NPaul72464 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 18:15:18 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] radiator hose leak while on a western adventure
Message-ID: <be7.218f582e.34429d76@aol.com>

Hi List,
 
My son and I are on a western adventure from NY state in my 1960 BN7.   It's 
been going great until today when we found a pin hole leak in the lower  
radiator hose where the heater piece attaches.  I plan on being at the  grand 
canyon tomorrow (150 miles away) and have VB sending a new hose which will  be 
there on Tuesday.  
 
I taped the hole with duct tape and drove 100 miles today (150 to  go).  
Still a small leak.  I am in a town with no services.   Could I add more tape, 
leave the cap loose, and make it all right to the Grand  Canyon?  
 
PS, yes, I know I should have brought a hose.
 
Ned Paulsen



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From ahbn6 at optonline.net  Sat Oct 13 16:31:41 2007
From: ahbn6 at optonline.net (John Sims)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 18:31:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Smitty Conversion- Throw out bearing and arm
In-Reply-To: <EA5C9B0E-13D9-42C6-A286-48AAEF55F6AD@mac.com>
References: <EA5C9B0E-13D9-42C6-A286-48AAEF55F6AD@mac.com>
Message-ID: <002901c80de8$d3afd9b0$6500a8c0@simsoffice>

OK what is the URL that we can use to see the picture. I get a strange error
message using the one that you gave even when I input the second line.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com
 


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
linwood rose
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 5:10 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Smitty Conversion- Throw out bearing and arm

I am now installing the Smitty conversion to Toyota gearbox to the
engine. In the photo below please see points where I assume one would
use a thin coat of high temp grease. 1. the shaft that the throw-out
bearing rides on and 2. The pivot ball that the arm rotates against.

Am I correct about this? Thanks.

http://gallery.mac.com/linwoodrose#100049/
clutch-20grease-20points&bgcolor=black


Lin
1960 BT7 in restoration
1959 Bugeye
_______________________________________________
ahbn6 at optonline.net

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From rrengineer at dslextreme.com  Sat Oct 13 16:32:09 2007
From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer at dslextreme.com)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 15:32:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank
Message-ID: <4c80acde0abf40a2640a.20071013153209.eeratvarre@www.dslextreme.com>

Re-Nuzit tells me it would cost more to repair the fuel tank I have for my
BN2 than for a new one, although I'm not sure they know what a new one
costs.  What is the best source for a fuel tank for a BN2 these days?
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sat Oct 13 16:33:01 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 17:33:01 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] radiator hose leak while on a western adventure
References: <be7.218f582e.34429d76@aol.com>
Message-ID: <00d601c80de9$0389c240$6401a8c0@toshibauser>

As you may know the cap allows the radiator to pressurize, raising the 
boiling point, boiling water doesn't do its cooling job as well.  With the 
cap off it should leak less, don't think the hose will burst or anything 
with or without the  duct tape.

So if the car it running pretty cool, say below 200 or so, and the you are 
not going to be driving in too hot a temperature I would think you should be 
in pretty good shape even with a small leak, I drove home from Kansas City, 
about 200 miles with a small but not tiny leak, it looked like a decent 
amount of coolant was coming out, but when I checked the level it had not 
gone down much.

Carry a gallon or two of distilled water and or 50/50 antifreeze and you 
should be in good shape.

Greg Lemon
54 Bn1

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Sat Oct 13 16:49:13 2007
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 18:49:13 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Smitty Conversion- Throw out bearing and arm
Message-ID: <cf1.1d70af9e.3442a569@aol.com>

Lin--
 
I could not view the photo but I believe that the Healey's ventral  
lubrication system combined with the slipstream of air  passing beneath the car will 
take care of this.
 
Hope I see you at Hunt Country tomorrow.
 
Best--Michael Oritt
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
In a message dated 10/13/2007 5:11:05 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
linwoodrose at mac.com writes:

In the  photo below please see points where I assume one would  
use a thin  coat of high temp grease. 1. the shaft that the throw-out  
bearing  rides on and 2. The pivot ball that the arm rotates  against.


 



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From linwoodrose at mac.com  Sat Oct 13 17:21:03 2007
From: linwoodrose at mac.com (linwood rose)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 19:21:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Smitty Conversion- Throw out bearing and arm
In-Reply-To: <002901c80de8$d3afd9b0$6500a8c0@simsoffice>
References: <EA5C9B0E-13D9-42C6-A286-48AAEF55F6AD@mac.com>
	<002901c80de8$d3afd9b0$6500a8c0@simsoffice>
Message-ID: <10AB0B1C-CD7A-42C9-AD4C-7160FE765544@mac.com>

Sorry, Try this URL
http://gallery.mac.com/linwoodrose#100049&bgcolor=black

Lin

On Oct 13, 2007, at 6:31 PM, John Sims wrote:

> OK what is the URL that we can use to see the picture. I get a  
> strange error
> message using the one that you gave even when I input the second line.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> www.healey6.com
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net] On  
> Behalf Of
> linwood rose
> Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 5:10 PM
> To: Healeys
> Subject: [Healeys] Smitty Conversion- Throw out bearing and arm
>
> I am now installing the Smitty conversion to Toyota gearbox to the
> engine. In the photo below please see points where I assume one would
> use a thin coat of high temp grease. 1. the shaft that the throw-out
> bearing rides on and 2. The pivot ball that the arm rotates against.
>
> Am I correct about this? Thanks.
>
> http://gallery.mac.com/linwoodrose#100049/
> clutch-20grease-20points&bgcolor=black
>
>
> Lin
> 1960 BT7 in restoration
> 1959 Bugeye
> _______________________________________________
> ahbn6 at optonline.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> _______________________________________________
> linwoodrose at mac.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sat Oct 13 17:29:59 2007
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 19:29:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Armacord
Message-ID: <20071013.192959.3136.0.dwflagg@juno.com>

I have a roll of black armacord. Kent Lacy has looked at it and said it
is an older reproduction which is slightly thicker than the original. If
anyone is interested they can have it for the cost of shipping. Thanks.

Regards,

Doug

From schauss at worldnet.att.net  Sat Oct 13 17:58:19 2007
From: schauss at worldnet.att.net (Peter Schauss)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 19:58:19 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Import Duty
In-Reply-To: <4710CB2B.000003.01348@YOUR-55E5F9E3D2>
Message-ID: <20071013235840.3AB43187640@autox.team.net>

I have no experience with AH spares upholstery, but I ordered quite a few
parts from them a few years back.  Their quality, service, and price (at the
time the $ was worth more) were always good.  They always shipped via air
mail and I never had to pay import duty on anything that I bought from them.

FWIW, I once bought a top for my MG from a company in the UK.  They shipped
it UPS and I paid an import duty and extra fees to UPS for handling customs.

-Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB

> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+schauss=worldnet.att.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+schauss=worldnet.att.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf
> Of edic
> Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 9:42 AM
> To: Healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Import Duty
> 
>  I am planning to buy a complete upholstery set including carpets from AH
> Spares.  Has anyone had experience with them on upholstery and can give me
> feedback. Also, I realize the dollar is dropping like a flying crowbar and
> the freight is not cheap, but are there import duty fees applicable as
> well.
> 
> 
> Mel Brunet
> HBJ8L/ 39749
> Land O Lakes, FL
> 
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
> newimage.jpg]
> 
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
> elephant_en.gif]
> _______________________________________________
> schauss at worldnet.att.net
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From dwhite4949 at wowway.com  Sat Oct 13 18:15:11 2007
From: dwhite4949 at wowway.com (Daniel and Diane White)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 20:15:11 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Re Import Duty
Message-ID: <47115F8F.1010807@wowway.com>

I purchased an exhaust system and hood from AH Spares and had it shipped 
UPS so that I could track it.  When it arrived the UPS driver hit me 
with a COD of about $20 for a "brokerage fee".
Dan White
1962 BN7 Mk II

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Oct 13 18:40:04 2007
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 17:40:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] radiator hose leak while on a western adventure
In-Reply-To: <be7.218f582e.34429d76@aol.com>
References: <be7.218f582e.34429d76@aol.com>
Message-ID: <47116564.9060506@comcast.net>

Some will see this as heresy, but you might throw a bottle of "Bars 
Leaks" in the radiator.
My dad--who used to be a factory rep for Ford and an auto shop 
teacher--said they
used to routinely put it in new cars as a preventative.

I've used it on occasion with no adverse side effects--it will seal up 
small leaks.

bs



NPaul72464 at aol.com wrote:
> Hi List,
>  
> My son and I are on a western adventure from NY state in my 1960 BN7.   It's 
> been going great until today when we found a pin hole leak in the lower  
> radiator hose where the heater piece attaches.  I plan on being at the  grand 
> canyon tomorrow (150 miles away) and have VB sending a new hose which will  be 
> there on Tuesday.  
>  
> I taped the hole with duct tape and drove 100 miles today (150 to  go).  
> Still a small leak.  I am in a town with no services.   Could I add more tape, 
> leave the cap loose, and make it all right to the Grand  Canyon?  
>  
> PS, yes, I know I should have brought a hose.
>  
> Ned Paulsen
>
>
>
>   
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Sat Oct 13 18:40:25 2007
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 20:40:25 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Phishing or real?
Message-ID: <d31.18c1be8e.3442bf79@aol.com>

I received the following from "Healeys-request at autox.team net.   Is this 
legit or a phishing scheme?  There was more text and it ultimately  gave me a 
password which was incorrect.  Anyone else get one of  these:
 
"Your membership in the mailing list Healeys has been disabled due  to
excessive bounces The last bounce received from you was  dated
13-Oct-2007.  You will not get any more messages from this list  until
you re-enable your membership.  You will receive 3 more reminders  like
this before your membership in the list is deleted."
 
Best--Michael Oritt





************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Oct 13 18:47:24 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 08:47:24 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Import Duty
In-Reply-To: <000e01c80dcb$5fb579b0$0e02a8c0@ecarecenters.net>
References: <4710CB2B.000003.01348@YOUR-55E5F9E3D2>
	<000e01c80dcb$5fb579b0$0e02a8c0@ecarecenters.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0710131747h5c41a781r6ca619ff1964c020@mail.gmail.com>

Yes I agree with you on this.  I've ordered a million things from the
UK - all delivered via UK Parcel Force/USPS never been dutied once.



On 10/14/07, PG <britishcars at shaw.ca> wrote:
> The key is to get it mailed to you....not shipped Fedex or UPS.
>
> Paul
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+britishcars=shaw.ca at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+britishcars=shaw.ca at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> edic
> Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 6:42 AM
> To: Healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Import Duty
>
>  I am planning to buy a complete upholstery set including carpets from AH
> Spares.  Has anyone had experience with them on upholstery and can give me
> feedback. Also, I realize the dollar is dropping like a flying crowbar and
> the freight is not cheap, but are there import duty fees applicable as well.
>
>
> Mel Brunet
> HBJ8L/ 39749
> Land O Lakes, FL
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
> newimage.jpg]
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
> elephant_en.gif]
> _______________________________________________
> britishcars at shaw.ca
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net  Sat Oct 13 19:06:48 2007
From: mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net (Mark and Kathy)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 21:06:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Battery  Cold Crank Amps
Message-ID: <000601c80dfe$8f9107c0$d651e104@markl946cfrd7q>

I can't find any info in my old Healey manuals about
Cold Crank amps for a battery.

Any suggestions on what the CCA should be for the 3000
six cyl.   eng.

After shopping around, prices really seem to have shot up recently.   And the
higher the  CCA the more $$$$.   For now I just need a battery to start the
car and  do some minimum test driving.    Its going to sit for awhile over the
winter months when the cars in storage so keeping the cost down is of interest
right now.

Anyone been down this road?

Mark

From mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net  Sat Oct 13 19:13:31 2007
From: mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net (Mark and Kathy)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 21:13:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Phishing or real?
References: <d31.18c1be8e.3442bf79@aol.com>
Message-ID: <001301c80dff$7fc5f340$d651e104@markl946cfrd7q>

Sounds pretty phishing to me.

ML

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Awgertoo at aol.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 8:40 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Phishing or real?


>I received the following from "Healeys-request at autox.team net.   Is this
> legit or a phishing scheme?  There was more text and it ultimately  gave 
> me a
> password which was incorrect.  Anyone else get one of  these:
>
> "Your membership in the mailing list Healeys has been disabled due  to
> excessive bounces The last bounce received from you was  dated
> 13-Oct-2007.  You will not get any more messages from this list  until
> you re-enable your membership.  You will receive 3 more reminders  like
> this before your membership in the list is deleted."
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at 
> http://www.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From pennell at cox.net  Sat Oct 13 19:19:48 2007
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 21:19:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Battery  Cold Crank Amps
In-Reply-To: <000601c80dfe$8f9107c0$d651e104@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <20071013211948.98EFX.200077.root@eastrmwml11>

Mark,

Those higher CCA in expensive batts are a wast of money in a Healey IMHO.  All you need is to start the car and run some low amp electrics.  I have a basic store brand 550 CCA in my BN7 for 4 years now and still going strong.

Keith Pennell

> I can't find any info in my old Healey manuals about
> Cold Crank amps for a battery.
> 
> Any suggestions on what the CCA should be for the 3000
> six cyl.   eng.
> 
> After shopping around, prices really seem to have shot up recently.   And the
> higher the  CCA the more $$$$.   For now I just need a battery to start the
> car and  do some minimum test driving.    Its going to sit for awhile over the
> winter months when the cars in storage so keeping the cost down is of interest
> right now.
> 
> Anyone been down this road?
> 
> Mark

From insptwo at msn.com  Sat Oct 13 19:28:07 2007
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 21:28:07 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Phishing or real?
In-Reply-To: <d31.18c1be8e.3442bf79@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY106-F24B67542C2347FB11638E8ADA20@phx.gbl>

Ok MIchael, I give up! What exactly is a "Bounce".
I would send an email directly to our web master.
Regards:
Bill
BJ7


>From: Awgertoo at aol.com
>To: healeys at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Healeys] Phishing or real?
>Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 20:40:25 EDT
>
>I received the following from "Healeys-request at autox.team net.   Is this
>legit or a phishing scheme?  There was more text and it ultimately  gave me 
>a
>password which was incorrect.  Anyone else get one of  these:
>
>"Your membership in the mailing list Healeys has been disabled due  to
>excessive bounces The last bounce received from you was  dated
>13-Oct-2007.  You will not get any more messages from this list  until
>you re-enable your membership.  You will receive 3 more reminders  like
>this before your membership in the list is deleted."
>
>Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
>
>
>
>************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
>_______________________________________________
>insptwo at msn.com
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Sat Oct 13 19:35:41 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 21:35:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Import Duty
Message-ID: <380-220071001413541500@earthlink.net>

I had two frame rails and a picture frame for my E-Type sent from the UK
several years ago.  Large shipment and very expensive---but no customs on
it and UPs delivered directly to my door.

Tom 

> [Original Message]
> From: PG <britishcars at shaw.ca>
> To: edic <edic at tampabay.rr.com>; <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 10/13/2007 3:02:22 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Import Duty
>
> The key is to get it mailed to you....not shipped Fedex or UPS.
>
> Paul
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+britishcars=shaw.ca at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+britishcars=shaw.ca at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> edic
> Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 6:42 AM
> To: Healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Import Duty
>
>  I am planning to buy a complete upholstery set including carpets from AH
> Spares.  Has anyone had experience with them on upholstery and can give me
> feedback. Also, I realize the dollar is dropping like a flying crowbar and
> the freight is not cheap, but are there import duty fees applicable as
well.
>
>
> Mel Brunet
> HBJ8L/ 39749
> Land O Lakes, FL
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
> newimage.jpg]
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
> elephant_en.gif]
> _______________________________________________
> britishcars at shaw.ca 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From insptwo at msn.com  Sat Oct 13 19:38:13 2007
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 21:38:13 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Battery Cold Crank Amps
In-Reply-To: <000601c80dfe$8f9107c0$d651e104@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <BAY106-F388013DAA210E80A14026DADA20@phx.gbl>

Mark:
You only have to worry about CCA if you are going to be doing a load of 
cranking on the starter without the engine turning over. A half decent 
battery at your parts store will do you fine, as long as you have a good 
generator to recharge the battery or a good charger in the garage. In the 
event that you are going to just start the car occasionally and not let it 
run very long, get a good automatic charger.
Bill
BJ7


>From: "Mark and Kathy" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
>To: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
>Subject: [Healeys] Battery  Cold Crank Amps
>Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 21:06:48 -0400
>
>I can't find any info in my old Healey manuals about
>Cold Crank amps for a battery.
>
>Any suggestions on what the CCA should be for the 3000
>six cyl.   eng.
>
>After shopping around, prices really seem to have shot up recently.   And 
>the
>higher the  CCA the more $$$$.   For now I just need a battery to start the
>car and  do some minimum test driving.    Its going to sit for awhile over 
>the
>winter months when the cars in storage so keeping the cost down is of 
>interest
>right now.
>
>Anyone been down this road?
>
>Mark
>_______________________________________________
>insptwo at msn.com
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Sat Oct 13 19:46:22 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 21:46:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] radiator hose leak while on a western adventure
Message-ID: <380-220071001414622906@earthlink.net>

150 miles to the Grand Canyon from Western NY??? Are you talking about
Pennsylvania's Grand Canyon?






> [Original Message]
> From: <NPaul72464 at aol.com>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 10/13/2007 6:15:42 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] radiator hose leak while on a western adventure
>
> Hi List,
>  
> My son and I are on a western adventure from NY state in my 1960 BN7.  
It's 
> been going great until today when we found a pin hole leak in the lower  
> radiator hose where the heater piece attaches.  I plan on being at the 
grand 
> canyon tomorrow (150 miles away) and have VB sending a new hose which
will  be 
> there on Tuesday.  
>  
> I taped the hole with duct tape and drove 100 miles today (150 to  go).  
> Still a small leak.  I am in a town with no services.   Could I add more
tape, 
> leave the cap loose, and make it all right to the Grand  Canyon?  
>  
> PS, yes, I know I should have brought a hose.
>  
> Ned Paulsen
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at
http://www.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Sat Oct 13 19:50:42 2007
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 18:50:42 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Anyone on this list
Message-ID: <004e01c80e04$a175a940$6501a8c0@XPS400>

I just saw a nice red Healey, early model with fold down windshield traveling
south on Centinella in West Los Angeles.  Anyone on this list?

Ron Fine

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Sat Oct 13 19:53:16 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 21:53:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] radiator hose leak while on a western adventure
Message-ID: <380-220071001415316718@earthlink.net>

Disregard my previous post.  I made a silly assumption that you were in W
NY when you wrote the post.  Cheers.

tom  


> [Original Message]
> From: <NPaul72464 at aol.com>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 10/13/2007 6:15:42 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] radiator hose leak while on a western adventure
>
> Hi List,
>  
> My son and I are on a western adventure from NY state in my 1960 BN7.  
It's 
> been going great until today when we found a pin hole leak in the lower  
> radiator hose where the heater piece attaches.  I plan on being at the 
grand 
> canyon tomorrow (150 miles away) and have VB sending a new hose which
will  be 
> there on Tuesday.  
>  
> I taped the hole with duct tape and drove 100 miles today (150 to  go).  
> Still a small leak.  I am in a town with no services.   Could I add more
tape, 
> leave the cap loose, and make it all right to the Grand  Canyon?  
>  
> PS, yes, I know I should have brought a hose.
>  
> Ned Paulsen
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at
http://www.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From sprite58 at hotmail.com  Tue Oct  9 21:45:21 2007
From: sprite58 at hotmail.com (r moses)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 23:45:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Sprite Jubilee 2008 Cheap is good, Free is better
Message-ID: <BAY101-W41358C9657D8418FD79A36CBA60@phx.gbl>

Cheap is good, Free is better Cheap ... Take $25 off of the current $75 Sprite
Jubilee Registration Fee with written proof of registration for one of the
following meets: Austin-Healey Club of America 2008 Conclave .. or ..
Austin-Healey Sports & Touring Club 2008 Encounter .. or .. Sprite-Midget Club
Lake of Ozarks, MO Gathering. FREE ... Vendors & Tailgate Sales space is FREE.
You do not have to pay anything to come and sell/trate/buy items at Sprite
Jubilee but you must register by filling out and submitting this form in order
to receive FREE inside or outside selling spaces. Visit the Sprite Jubilee
2008 Registration Form Sprite Jubilee is a fabulous family vacation event at a
Super Resort !!!Hotel Carlisle Group Registration Form PDF attached ... OR ...
Telephone anytime Nation Wide Toll Free 800-692-7315.   8-12 1-4 weekdays
eastern USA time works best.
All children are welcome at all events, pay events at a reduced fee, or at
concurrent parties just for the children.

The 5 day meet Registration Fee* includes everybody in your family that is
living at your home and all the British & Sports cars you all own. There are
no additional charges for your driving age dependents or cars you all own.

The $75 fee is the same as Sprite Spree 2003 five years ago and cheaper if you
go to more than one or three specific events in 2008 and it includes more
people and cars.  For the event of a lifetime register now!

The Sprite's 50th anniversary, May 20, 2008  happens just once at Sprite
Jubilee 2008 in Central Pennsylvania USA.

* Note: Carlisle Import/Kit/Replicar Nationals, May 16 - 18, 2008. Requires a
separate registration and fee with Carlisle Productions. Register daily or
save money on an all three day show field pass with your car.
www.carsatcarlisle.com


FOR HELP with Registering for Sprite Jubilee 2008 or resort room
accommodations contact Rick Moses personally at nationwide toll free
877-748-3165, cell phone 717-379-5752 and by email at SPRITE anytime! Dont be
frustrated; talk to Rick.   Keep smiling!

_________________________________________________________________
Help yourself to FREE treats served up daily at the Messenger Cafi. Stop by
today.
http://www.cafemessenger.com/info/info_sweetstuff2.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_OctWLt
agline

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf]

From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au  Wed Oct 10 19:59:59 2007
From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 11:59:59 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Healey SR Lemans 1968
In-Reply-To: <001001c80b84$c449d220$0301000a@Geology1>
References: <001001c80b84$c449d220$0301000a@Geology1>
Message-ID: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C70169EC2A@itfexch5.central.det.win>

G'day

Perhaps if I were to spread a little Healey History the car for sale
will be put into prospective. You will realise that the below is a
severely truncated version.

The DHMC has an amazing history at Le Mans with the first entry in 1949
through to the last in 1970.

For the 1968 event it was decided to enter a sports prototype and work
went ahead to build the Healey SR coupe. Two floor pans were built with
one made up to a complete car with rear mounted 2-litre Coventry-Climax
V8 and Hewland transaxle. Support was still being provided by BMC; hence
the Climax V8 as the company came under the BMC umbrella.

The second floor pan was built in case it was needed after an accident.
Finished in BRG the SR was a good looking but didn't last the distance
at Le Mans, mainly due to the engine shaking other bits to pieces. It
was modified and ran again in 1969 but the results were very much the
same.

With the Le Mans rules being what they were did not allow the same cars
to run 3 years running. So for 1970 the SR was drastically modified into
an open car or roadster 4 inches longer, painted white and fitted with a
Repco-Brabham V8 and Hewland transaxle. In a further effort to confuse
the French it was also renamed to the Healey XR37. During the race it
almost lasted the distance until sidelined by ignition problems. If you
want to see the car in action, have a look at the Steve McQueen film, Le
Mans.

After the event the DHMC put the car up for sale and at the time Brian
Healey was communicating with the father of Robert Harrison here in
Australia. Robert had recently bought a new BJ8 that he still has.
Anyway Brian let it be known that the XR37 was up for sale and Robert
bought the car. Before it was shipped to Australia there was thought
about running it again in 1971 and Brian approached Robert to see if he
could arrange the necessary finances. It was not possible and the car
was shipped to Australia.

Robert Harrison still owns the XR37 and it is in Sydney. Apart from now
running a modified Rover V8 it is as it ran in 1970. So the car that
actually ran at Le Mans in 1968, 1969 and 1970 is in Sydney, Australia.

Remember the second floor pan? That was sold to a friend of Geoff Healey
along with the bits left during the time when the car was changed for
1969 and 1970 events on the proviso that it not be sold. Geoff had ideas
of making it into the start of a run of complete cars and selling them
as Healeys. However that didn't occur and sadly Geoff died.

Geoff's friend some years later sold the floorpan and bits to an
Australian via auction. It was all brought back here and was used to
build a new SR with a Rover V8. The workmanship was and still is first
class. When the car was taken to the UK a few years back it was tested
by Mick Walsh of Classic and Sports Car who sung the car's praises
loudly.

The car came up for sale in Australia about 12 months back and the
asking price was Aus$400,000. There is at least one more reconstruction
of the SR in the UK.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+patrick.quinn=det.nsw.edu.au at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+patrick.quinn=det.nsw.edu.au at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Ross Maylor
Sent: Thursday, 11 October 2007 7:30 AM
To: Healey Forum
Subject: [Healeys] Healey SR Lemans 1968

Hi all,
This car has come up for discussion previously on the list.
It is currently for sale. No idea of price.
See page 4
http://www.vdvgrant.be/sale.php

Cheers
Ross Maylor
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************

From geatros at shaw.ca  Sat Oct 13 20:13:02 2007
From: geatros at shaw.ca (geatros)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 19:13:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank
Message-ID: <002201c80e07$bfd38710$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>

Hi  Mike
I've bought a few gas tanks ,100 and 3000 from Jorge . His prices are good
......


Cheers
Kenny
Vanciuver BC



jorgecervera at jaguarbyjorge.com

From shop at justbrits.com  Sat Oct 13 20:28:09 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 21:28:09 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Phishing or real?
References: <d31.18c1be8e.3442bf79@aol.com>
Message-ID: <026701c80e09$dcffdf30$6601a8c0@actualshop>

Michael:

First, I am NOT "picking" on you!!!  You entire post IS below the *** line.

Your post just proves just how many Listers (couple VERY wrong answers),
yourself included, have NOT read anything about the NEW List program.  All the
info IS available at bottom of every List post.

The next thing it proves is that MailMan (program MJB has changed to - because
it is WAY better than majordomo) conforms to Internet Standards whereas aol
does NOT!!  They write their own rules and think the world should conform.
NOT.

I run a dozen or so Mail Lists that I use MailMan for and the PRIMARY "problem
child" (and PITA) IS aol.  gmail is second, with hotmail coming in third.  I
VERY, VERY rarely have problems with my Lists where folks use their own ISP
mail address.    $5/mo or less and you get exactly what you earn/deserve.

I'll even go so far as to offer everybody a FREE mail box/address thru my
site.  And I PAY for my email boxes/addresses<G>!!

Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortence THE Healey wearing STD. IL plates    AH BJ 7    )
*****************************************************************************
*
I received the following from "Healeys-request at autox.team net.   Is this
legit or a phishing scheme?

***LEGIT and proper***

  There was more text and it ultimately  gave me a
password which was incorrect.  Anyone else get one of  these:

"Your membership in the mailing list Healeys has been disabled due  to
excessive bounces The last bounce received from you was  dated
13-Oct-2007.

***You WILL have to do this!!***

You will not get any more messages from this list  until
you re-enable your membership.  You will receive 3 more reminders  like
this before your membership in the list is deleted."

***and it will be***

Best--Michael Oritt

From edwjkeuer at comcast.net  Sat Oct 13 21:00:38 2007
From: edwjkeuer at comcast.net (Edward Keuer)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 22:00:38 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Window Roll-up on BJ8
Message-ID: <C6FA1829-44F1-49B3-A758-3523CC2AC7FA@comcast.net>

Hi everyone,

My new old car has another problem: my driver window won't roll up.  
I've taken Steve's advice and pulled the handles off, then the  
leather interior panel...only broke one plastic escutcheon so far. It  
just snapped when I touched it - honest!

The window just won't go up at all. I can't lift it up or roll it up.  
The "crank" shaft seems just stuck, though there is a bit of play in  
it. What next, anyone? Remove those 7/16 bolts and try to get the  
whole assembly out? Any good printed guidance step by step that  
anyone knows of?

I wish the healey.org site had a reference library of all the tech  
articles - that would help! But you all have been terrific and many  
thanks for your kind and wise suggestions to a newbie like me.

Warm driving everyone - it's getting cold in Chicago!
Edw. J. Keuer
'66 BJ8

From shop at justbrits.com  Sat Oct 13 21:07:08 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 22:07:08 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Window Roll-up on BJ8
References: <C6FA1829-44F1-49B3-A758-3523CC2AC7FA@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <009501c80e0f$4f2237c0$6601a8c0@actualshop>

Get my private note a couple days ago, Ed??

Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey wearing STD. IL plates    AH BJ 7    )

From ynotink at msn.com  Sat Oct 13 22:12:08 2007
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 04:12:08 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] radiator hose leak while on a western adventure
In-Reply-To: <be7.218f582e.34429d76@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY101-F29C2F9E20BC6F5FF44E40BA5A20@phx.gbl>

Ned,

First congratulations on your fortitude and welcome to the great southwest. 
I use my 100 for travel quite a bit and so have had a few similar 
experiences myself. I had to replace a head gasket in Killeen, Texas three 
weeks ago. These cars can really test your resourcefulness.

You picked a good time of year to have this particular problem in this area. 
The weather is fairly cool so you shouldn't have heating problems under 
normal conditions. As long as the water temperature isn't exceeding the 
boiling point of water (208-210 F at this altitude) you should be able to 
drive with the pressure cap loose. As long as there is no pressure against 
the system your pinhole leak shouldn't lose too much coolant. A good 
rubberized tape may help control it too.

You didn't say where you are, but if you are around Flagstaff or Williams 
look at NAPA or any of the other chain auto parts stores you may be able to 
find a universal corrugated hose that will fit (You will need to bypass the 
heater)  It will be  ugly but it will work until your new molded hose 
catches up with you. As long as the coolant stays in the water jacket the 
car doesn't care if the hose is original.

Have a great trip. Don't let a little misfortune put you off. It's part of 
the adventure. If reliability was the most important thing you could have 
taken the bus.

Bill Lawrence
Albuquerque, NM


>From: NPaul72464 at aol.com
>To: healeys at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] radiator hose leak while on a western adventure
>Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 18:15:18 EDT
>
>Hi List,
>
>My son and I are on a western adventure from NY state in my 1960 BN7.   
>It's
>been going great until today when we found a pin hole leak in the lower
>radiator hose where the heater piece attaches.  I plan on being at the  
>grand
>canyon tomorrow (150 miles away) and have VB sending a new hose which will  
>be
>there on Tuesday.
>
>I taped the hole with duct tape and drove 100 miles today (150 to  go).
>Still a small leak.  I am in a town with no services.   Could I add more 
>tape,
>leave the cap loose, and make it all right to the Grand  Canyon?
>
>PS, yes, I know I should have brought a hose.
>
>Ned Paulsen

From gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com  Sun Oct 14 01:42:02 2007
From: gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com (Greg Wilkinson)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 00:42:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Anyone on this list
In-Reply-To: <004e01c80e04$a175a940$6501a8c0@XPS400>
Message-ID: <GKEDJBJNDHLPKFGMKCEAMEMPDCAA.gregwilkinson@roadrunner.com>

Hi Ron,
I think I've seen the 100 you are referring to (how many red 100's are in
the area?) I haven't met the owner, but I've seen the car parked on Montana
Ave several times and twice on Ocean Ave just North of the California
incline. Also a slim possibility it was Sharon, though she lives further
South of us. You may remember meeting her at Palos Verdes talking about
mechanics for her MG. She did come up this way for the Malibu run in July.

Cheers,
Greg

-----Original Message-----

I just saw a nice red Healey, early model with fold down windshield
traveling
south on Centinella in West Los Angeles.  Anyone on this list?

Ron Fine

From j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl  Sun Oct 14 02:19:37 2007
From: j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl (J.Aeckerlin)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 10:19:37 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] radiator hose leak while on a western adventure
In-Reply-To: <be7.218f582e.34429d76@aol.com>
References: <be7.218f582e.34429d76@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4711D119.1000004@tiscali.nl>

Ned,
A Dutch Road Patrol man once helped me with a leaking radiator hose by 
putting a matchstick across the opening of the radiator cap and putting 
the cap back on. That way no pressure could be built up in the system 
and it enabled me limping to a garage where a new hose was fitted.
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432


NPaul72464 at aol.com schreef:
> Hi List,
>  
> My son and I are on a western adventure from NY state in my 1960 BN7.   It's 
> been going great until today when we found a pin hole leak in the lower  
> radiator hose where the heater piece attaches.  I plan on being at the  grand 
> canyon tomorrow (150 miles away) and have VB sending a new hose which will  be 
> there on Tuesday.  
>  
> I taped the hole with duct tape and drove 100 miles today (150 to  go).  
> Still a small leak.  I am in a town with no services.   Could I add more tape, 
> leave the cap loose, and make it all right to the Grand  Canyon?  
>  
> PS, yes, I know I should have brought a hose.
>  
> Ned Paulsen

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sun Oct 14 07:00:59 2007
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 09:00:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Phishing or real?
In-Reply-To: <d31.18c1be8e.3442bf79@aol.com>
References: <d31.18c1be8e.3442bf79@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4712130B.3070508@earthlink.net>

Micheal,

I think it's legit. mjb has made comments in the past of problems with AOL. 
Are you still getting mail from the list? I'd think you'd be able to check 
the status by clicking on the link at the bottom of any (known legit) email 
you received from the list.  Just a guess.


Bill,

"bounce" means that mail to Micheal couldn't be delivered and was returned.

If you want some more info: go to http://www.goggle.com and enter "define: 
bounce" without the quotes in the  text box. Hit the search button and it 
will display definitions of bounce found on the web.

Bob

Awgertoo at aol.com wrote:
> I received the following from "Healeys-request at autox.team net.   Is this 
> legit or a phishing scheme?  There was more text and it ultimately  gave me a 
> password which was incorrect.  Anyone else get one of  these:
>  
> "Your membership in the mailing list Healeys has been disabled due  to
> excessive bounces The last bounce received from you was  dated
> 13-Oct-2007.  You will not get any more messages from this list  until
> you re-enable your membership.  You will receive 3 more reminders  like
> this before your membership in the list is deleted."
>  
> Best--Michael Oritt

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sun Oct 14 07:05:29 2007
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 09:05:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  County water pumps
In-Reply-To: <00db01c80d35$acbaa500$8c632bd1@iquest.net>
References: <00db01c80d35$acbaa500$8c632bd1@iquest.net>
Message-ID: <47121419.60406@earthlink.net>

Craig,

I asked Peter about rebuilding pumps.  Here is his reply:

"Yes we do..... sort of.

At the moment we are very, very backed up on shock rebuilding, and I have 
all hands working on those orders. We had been doing water pumps for a few 
select customers as a time filler. We have no free time at this point.
Maybe in a few months.

I do have 1 pump done on the shelf, though. 6 cylinder AH with the threaded 
shaft, not hub.  If that is what you need, the price is $75.00 exchange. 
(a core charge of $50.00 would apply as a deposit)"

Bob

Craig and Sue Rice wrote:

> 
>> Bob,
>> Peter Caldwell at World Wide Auto Parts is rebuilding water pumps using
>> modern day innards.
>> Craig Rice
>> BN1 & BN2

From ahbn6 at optonline.net  Sun Oct 14 07:24:34 2007
From: ahbn6 at optonline.net (John Sims)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 09:24:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Phishing or real?
In-Reply-To: <4712130B.3070508@earthlink.net>
References: <d31.18c1be8e.3442bf79@aol.com> <4712130B.3070508@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <004201c80e65$8fbad110$6500a8c0@simsoffice>

There is nothing worse than a reformed sinner. I can remember quite well
when AOL first started, they encouraged bulk emails because they got revenue
from the large senders. Then, they realized that most of the bulk emails
were SPAM and put filters on their system so harsh that several years ago,
they blocked my ISP --Optimum on line (Cablevision) because of the large
number of emails transiting their system with the @optonline.net email
ending. This lasted for about a month in which no one on the Cablevision
system could send emails to an AOL customer. So, those of us who saw the
light and used Cablevision instead of AOL were penalized. I remember the
conversation with the Cablevision techies who flat told me that Cablevision
was going to sue AOL if the restrictions were not lifted.

I have friends who believe AOL's propaganda that if they move from AOL, they
will no longer be able to send or receive emails. They continue to use AOL
in fear even though they have cable modems and access to the cable company's
ISP. Go figure!

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com
 


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Haskell
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 9:01 AM
To: Awgertoo at aol.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Phishing or real?

Micheal,

I think it's legit. mjb has made comments in the past of problems with AOL.
Are you still getting mail from the list? I'd think you'd be able to check
the status by clicking on the link at the bottom of any (known legit) email
you received from the list.  Just a guess.


Bill,

"bounce" means that mail to Micheal couldn't be delivered and was returned.

If you want some more info: go to http://www.goggle.com and enter "define:
bounce" without the quotes in the  text box. Hit the search button and it

From mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net  Sun Oct 14 07:34:38 2007
From: mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net (Mark and Kathy)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 09:34:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Marque Article, FWIW
Message-ID: <002001c80e67$16cf8be0$cbe7fc04@markl946cfrd7q>

Must have been a slow article month for the Marque.  Ten pages on a Master
Cylinder mod is way off the Marque,  IMHO.

Not to mention  boring as it drug along.

What we're you thinking Reid?  I have some short , actually doable, mods if
you need some filler.  Wow!

Flame away,    Mark

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Oct 14 08:19:17 2007
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 07:19:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Eastwood Rust Dissolver
Message-ID: <47122565.2000706@comcast.net>

   FWIW,  Eastwood  has  a  "special"  (probably  means  it's going for a
   normal, retail
   price) on a non-acid rust dissolver:
   http://tinyurl.com/2o3z9p
   I've  never  used it, and have no financial interest in Eastwood--I'll
   buy there if I
   can't  find  it  cheaper someplace else, or it's a unique product--but
   the topic of
   rust  removal  comes  up  occasionally so I thought I'd pass it along.
   Note this is
   a "one day" special.
   bs
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

From mlempert at bellsouth.net  Sun Oct 14 08:35:42 2007
From: mlempert at bellsouth.net (M Lempert)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 10:35:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Phishing or real?
References: <mailman.23793.1192324053.12556.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <001701c80e6f$800e7910$6001a8c0@DadsPC>

I too received one of those messages from the SPRIDGETS list. It did indeed
unsubscribe me shortly thereafter, so it seems very legitimate. I sent
multiple requests to the list owner for more information about the bounces.
It seemed to me that re-enabling my membership wouldn't resolve the problem,
so I wanted data to send to my ISP so that they might address the problem at
its source. Unfortunately, I never received any response from the list 
owner. I haven't had
this occur on the Healey list yet. However, I receive the digest version and 
I
have been getting this message:
"This message has been processed by Symantec's AntiVirus Technology.

Unknown00000000.data was not scanned for viruses because too many nested 
levels of files were found."

It typically occurs when there are many postings. Several things seemed to 
start happening at the same time; the "bounce" message, the above, and some 
other email problems. At that approximate time, I think the Bellsouth 
network was integrated with the new AT&T network as a result of recent 
acquisition. I think the Symantec influence came in at that point. Perhaps 
the bounce issue as well.

On top of all this, it seems McAfee has started to corrupt files in Outlook 
Express. I have just lost two months worth of recent emails. So if anyone 
has had difficulty communicating with me, please try again.

Regards,
Mike Lempert

>Message: 15
>Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 20:40:25 EDT
>From: Awgertoo at aol.com
>Subject: [Healeys] Phishing or real?
>To: healeys at autox.team.net
>Message-ID: <d31.18c1be8e.3442bf79 at aol.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
>I received the following from "Healeys-request at autox.team net.   Is this
>legit or a phishing scheme?  There was more text and it ultimately  gave me
>a
>password which was incorrect.  Anyone else get one of  these:
>
>"Your membership in the mailing list Healeys has been disabled due  to
>excessive bounces The last bounce received from you was  dated
>13-Oct-2007.  You will not get any more messages from this list  until
>you re-enable your membership.  You will receive 3 more reminders  like
>this before your membership in the list is deleted."
>
>Best--Michael Oritt

From allynrichardson at cox.net  Sun Oct 14 08:46:53 2007
From: allynrichardson at cox.net (Allyn Richardson)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 07:46:53 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Eastwood rust dissolver
Message-ID: <20071014144712.RZVL7380.fed1rmmtao102.cox.net@fed1rmimpo02.cox.net>

I buy the same type of rust remover from an e-store called the "Rust Store"
for approx. $25 a gallon. This stuff is a miracle! Non acidic, based on soy
beans (no joke). Sounds like a lot of money but it removes rust from every
nook and cranny that blasting will not get to. Only removes oxidation from
ferrous based metals. 
It's great for small parts that are to small to media blast. I have left
parts in the liquid for several weeks with no dimensional change. Good for
me since I tend to "forget" about stuff.  
 
Allyn  

From rwil at sbcglobal.net  Sun Oct 14 09:58:33 2007
From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 08:58:33 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Marque Article, FWIW
In-Reply-To: <002001c80e67$16cf8be0$cbe7fc04@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <002001c80e67$16cf8be0$cbe7fc04@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <72f4h3dhv3af3bgapoclk0hsl5ij73q8vv@4ax.com>

I haven't read the issue yet but it sounds as if Reid is just
balancing the September Marque which was almost exclusively devoted to
Events and Conclave in particular.

-Roland

On Sun, 14 Oct 2007 09:34:38 -0400, you wrote:

::Must have been a slow article month for the Marque.  Ten pages on a Master
::Cylinder mod is way off the Marque,  IMHO.
::
::Not to mention  boring as it drug along.
::
::What we're you thinking Reid?  I have some short , actually doable, mods if
::you need some filler.  Wow!
::
::Flame away,    Mark

From edriver at sasktel.net  Sun Oct 14 10:30:09 2007
From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 10:30:09 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Marque Article, FWIW
In-Reply-To: <72f4h3dhv3af3bgapoclk0hsl5ij73q8vv@4ax.com>
References: <002001c80e67$16cf8be0$cbe7fc04@markl946cfrd7q>
	<72f4h3dhv3af3bgapoclk0hsl5ij73q8vv@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <47124411.3000408@sasktel.net>

Hi Roland

I have yet to receive mine so I can not comment ;-)

Kind regards
Ed



Roland Wilhelmy wrote:
> I haven't read the issue yet but it sounds as if Reid is just
> balancing the September Marque which was almost exclusively devoted to
> Events and Conclave in particular.
> 
> -Roland
> 
> On Sun, 14 Oct 2007 09:34:38 -0400, you wrote:
> 
> ::Must have been a slow article month for the Marque.  Ten pages on a Master
> ::Cylinder mod is way off the Marque,  IMHO.
> ::
> ::Not to mention  boring as it drug along.
> ::
> ::What we're you thinking Reid?  I have some short , actually doable, mods if
> ::you need some filler.  Wow!
> ::
> ::Flame away,    Mark

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Sun Oct 14 10:44:59 2007
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 17:44:59 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] postage to/from UK to/from USA
Message-ID: <001801c80e81$8f7a34e0$0200a8c0@simonalexa>

First off, postage from Oz has always been v.reasonable (for me [so far]),
so I'm addressing this from an Atlantic perspective.

We can post things to the USA using TNT, UPS or any local equivalent.it just
depends how much extra cash you have to throw(waste) at the consignment. If
you want it to get there for half the price, and just as quickly, use Royal
Mail from the local Post Office. And US Mail going the other way.

One of your suppliers has always used US Mail to me and I'd never dream of
using UPS etcetc.

Just my own opinion of course etcetc.

(Also, Royal Mail doesn't quibble.if you want to write "worthless chunk of
old iron" rather than "irreplaceable thingie for High Performance mod" on
the little green ticket they won't demur.

Simon.

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Oct 14 11:10:42 2007
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 10:10:42 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Eastwood rust dissolver
In-Reply-To: <20071014144712.RZVL7380.fed1rmmtao102.cox.net@fed1rmimpo02.cox.net>
References: <20071014144712.RZVL7380.fed1rmmtao102.cox.net@fed1rmimpo02.cox.net>
Message-ID: <47124D92.3060603@comcast.net>

That's what I mean by "... buy there if I can't find it cheaper 
someplace else ..."

;)


bs


Allyn Richardson wrote:
> I buy the same type of rust remover from an e-store called the "Rust Store"
> for approx. $25 a gallon. This stuff is a miracle! Non acidic, based on soy
> beans (no joke). Sounds like a lot of money but it removes rust from every
> nook and cranny that blasting will not get to. Only removes oxidation from
> ferrous based metals. 
> It's great for small parts that are to small to media blast. I have left
> parts in the liquid for several weeks with no dimensional change. Good for
> me since I tend to "forget" about stuff.  
>  
> Allyn  
> _______________________________________________
> bspidell at comcast.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>   


-- 
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

From MBran89793 at aol.com  Sun Oct 14 11:29:39 2007
From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 13:29:39 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Marque Article, FWIW
Message-ID: <caa.199ede3c.3443ac03@aol.com>

FWIW
This article was of particular interest to me because of my recent  
experience with a ruptured rear braided SS brake line. 
To make it even more harrowing it happened on a section of Tampa, FL  where 
I-4 and I-275 connect  which is known as "Mal Function  Junction."  We were 
fortunate enough to have replaced the hydraulic brake  light switch with a 
mechanical one that probably kept me from getting rear  ended. "Blackie" our BJ8 has 
rear disc brakes so the parking brakes were totally  useless in this case. My 
wife was very astonished at my calm quick reactions in  avoiding hitting the 
car in front of us, veering off onto the left shoulder  (Fortunately there was 
one of about 75 yards.), gear down and get the car  stopped without having a 
total disaster. 
After our experience I have been seriously pursuing the possibility of  
installing a dual braking system. 
Just wish I had taken the time and spent the additional monies last year  
when "Blackie" had some cosmetic surgery and a paint job. 
Just my $.02 worth but I hope you can see why I was captivated by this  
article.  

Marion S.  Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey  Club





************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From wericars at aol.com  Sun Oct 14 07:10:08 2007
From: wericars at aol.com (wericars at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 09:10:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Window Roll-up on BJ8
In-Reply-To: <C6FA1829-44F1-49B3-A758-3523CC2AC7FA@comcast.net>
References: <C6FA1829-44F1-49B3-A758-3523CC2AC7FA@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8C9DC7AAE1F5BFB-135C-536D@webmail-stg-d10.sysops.aol.com>

Take a look at the window where it meets the frame and see if one or more of the three plastic guides is broken.? Brace the wondow at the base with a block of wood between the underside of the window and the bottom panel of the door.? Then disconnect the roll up mechanism.? With that disconnected, see if you can operate the crank through a complete up and down cycle.? Then see if you can lift the window in the frame by hand past the point where it is bound up.? If you can't , then the window is not running in the frame correctly.? If you can lift the window, but you can't turn the crank,?then you probably have a problem in your crank.? What if you can do both?? You may be able to lift the window? by hand because you are applying upward force in a way that avoids binding.? See if there is a lot of plan between the window and the frame.

In most cases, broken plastic runners is the culprit.


Bill
Boston area
65 BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: Edward Keuer <edwjkeuer at comcast.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 11:00 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Window Roll-up on BJ8



Hi everyone,

My new old car has another problem: my driver window won't roll up.  
I've taken Steve's advice and pulled the handles off, then the  
leather interior panel...only broke one plastic escutcheon so far. It  
just snapped when I touched it - honest!

The window just won't go up at all. I can't lift it up or roll it up.  
The "crank" shaft seems just stuck, though there is a bit of play in  
it. What next, anyone? Remove those 7/16 bolts and try to get the  
whole assembly out? Any good printed guidance step by step that  
anyone knows of?

I wish the healey.org site had a reference library of all the tech  
articles - that would help! But you all have been terrific and many  
thanks for your kind and wise suggestions to a newbie like me.

Warm driving everyone - it's getting cold in Chicago!
Edw. J. Keuer
'66 BJ8
_______________________________________________
wericars at aol.com 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Oct 14 11:50:01 2007
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 10:50:01 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Marque Article, FWIW
In-Reply-To: <caa.199ede3c.3443ac03@aol.com>
References: <caa.199ede3c.3443ac03@aol.com>
Message-ID: <471256C9.2080300@comcast.net>

re:
"... ruptured rear braided SS brake line ..."

Wow.  Always thought those were "better" than the stock ones (though I 
believe
there's an issue whether or not they're legal for street use--at least 
in some states).


bs


-- 
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Oct 14 13:34:29 2007
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 15:34:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] MGA Dash
Message-ID: <20071014.153430.3456.1.dwflagg@juno.com>

I have a very nice MGA wooden dash. If you have an interest, please
contact me off the list. Thanks.

Doug

From Gbouff1 at aol.com  Sun Oct 14 14:23:43 2007
From: Gbouff1 at aol.com (Gbouff1 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 16:23:43 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Sept-Oct. Austine healey magazine cover picture
Message-ID: <c9d.1c06052d.3443d4cf@aol.com>

One of the colors that I am considering for my early 1960 BN7 is  Primrose 
Yellow (YL.3 according to the parts list).  Up until I saw  this months issue's 
cover picture, I thought that the color was a light  almost powder yellow, 
much like the new Volkswagon Convertible's light yellow  that is currently 
available
 
The yellow on this months issue has a definite green cast to it and the  
inside article pictures have an even more defined green cast.  Is this just  a 
result of poor color rendition during the printing process?  Or does  Primrose 
Yellow have a green cast to it?
 
Any light that someone can shed on this subject would be greatly  appreciated.
 
Thanks,
 
Gary Bouffard
1960 BN7   Commision# 7443



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From scvc70 at epix.net  Sun Oct 14 14:58:54 2007
From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 16:58:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Sept-Oct. Austine healey magazine cover picture
References: <c9d.1c06052d.3443d4cf@aol.com>
Message-ID: <028701c80ea5$08a06060$3e1a4ad1@S0026273562>

If this is the same as the Pale Primrose used on the '68 - '69 MGCs, it's 
definitely not greenish.  We can probably supply the paint code we used on 
our C -- just ask.

Sarah Carr
BN1 in PA


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Gbouff1 at aol.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 4:23 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Sept-Oct. Austine healey magazine cover picture


> One of the colors that I am considering for my early 1960 BN7 is  Primrose
> Yellow (YL.3 according to the parts list).  Up until I saw  this months 
> issue's
> cover picture, I thought that the color was a light  almost powder yellow,
> much like the new Volkswagon Convertible's light yellow  that is currently
> available
>
> The yellow on this months issue has a definite green cast to it and the
> inside article pictures have an even more defined green cast.  Is this 
> just  a
> result of poor color rendition during the printing process?  Or does 
> Primrose
> Yellow have a green cast to it?
>
> Any light that someone can shed on this subject would be greatly 
> appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gary Bouffard
> 1960 BN7   Commision# 7443
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at 
> http://www.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> scvc70 at epix.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From LEON5050 at aol.com  Sun Oct 14 15:34:42 2007
From: LEON5050 at aol.com (LEON5050 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 17:34:42 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Eastwood Rust Dissolver
Message-ID: <d69.149e63f9.3443e572@aol.com>

A real cheap rust dissolver can be made by mixing molasses in a one to nine  
ratio with water.  It takes a bit longer but works great.  1 -  molasses to 9 
- water.  Just immerse you part in the solution and let it  set.  May take a 
couple of days.  It depends on the amount of  rust.  If the rust is thick you 
need to remove the part every couple of  days and rinse.  At that time it is a 
good chance to check progress.
 
Jim Nichols
BT7



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From shop at justbrits.com  Sun Oct 14 15:52:46 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 16:52:46 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Eastwood Rust Dissolver
References: <d69.149e63f9.3443e572@aol.com>
Message-ID: <01e001c80eac$8ec9c210$6601a8c0@actualshop>

<<A real cheap rust dissolver can be made by mixing molasses in a one to nine
ratio with water.>>

Cheaper yet is:

Electrolytic "How to Article"  at www.justbrits.com in Various Articles,
folks.

A friend & customer in PA did a square body Sprite tub that way!!!

Ed

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Oct 14 15:54:03 2007
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 17:54:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Nash Healey
Message-ID: <20071014.175403.3500.0.dwflagg@juno.com>

I have a USPS issued mounted display of the 1952 Nash Healey stamp from
the "Sporty Cars" series. It is 12" x 16" with two matted displays. One
is a 7 1/2" x 9 1/2" picture of the stamp (top display). The other is
either a copy of or a first day cover with the original stamp (bottom
display). Absolutely mint in the original USPS sealed wrapping. If
interested, please contact me off the list. Thanks.

Doug

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Sun Oct 14 16:19:30 2007
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 18:19:30 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Phishing or real?
Message-ID: <ced.1cb418df.3443eff2@aol.com>

Bob--
 
I had gotten an email from the list only a few hours before receiving the  
"bounce" message.  However there might have been earlier messages bounced  back 
to autox by AOL.  In any case I took the big chance and responded to  the 
"bounce" department and all now seems well--I received your message both  directly 
and from autox.
 
Thanks--
 
Michael Oritt
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
In a message dated 10/14/2007 9:07:00 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
rchaskell at earthlink.net writes:

Micheal,

I think it's legit. mjb has made comments in the past  of problems with AOL. 
Are you still getting mail from the list? I'd think  you'd be able to check 
the status by clicking on the link at the bottom of  any (known legit) email 
you received from the list.  


 



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From dwhite4949 at wowway.com  Sun Oct 14 16:58:52 2007
From: dwhite4949 at wowway.com (Daniel and Diane White)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 18:58:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Digest version
Message-ID: <47129F2C.6090200@wowway.com>

A question for you listers who know more about computers than I do 
(which equates to 100%).  What does "receiving the digest version" of 
the messages on the list mean?
Dan White
'62 BN 7

From ecsaustralia at bigpond.com  Sun Oct 14 17:59:00 2007
From: ecsaustralia at bigpond.com (Bill Shipton)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 16:59:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Replacement chassis ID plate question
In-Reply-To: <470D42D1.2040509@bigpond.com>
References: <470D42D1.2040509@bigpond.com>
Message-ID: <4712AD44.9020806@bigpond.com>

Hi listers,

A couple of people have kindly replied with photos of their original ID 
plates (the one with the thin silver border around the edge), so my
remaining question is, where I can buy one of these (not the repro with 
the full black background) - someone out there must sell them?

Thanks in advance,


Bill



> Hi all,
>
> I am wanting to replace the chassis ID plate on my 1958 BN6. There 
> seems to be two types of aftermarket replacement chassis ID plates
> available, from what I can see, for my era car:
>
> Type 1: Rectangular, black and silver, without a silver border (the 
> one that's on there now, clearly an aftermarket replacement)
> Type 2: Same as type 1, but with a silver border (as per the original 
> ID plate on my BN7)
>
> I'm assuming that the correct plate is type 2, as every photo I've 
> ever seen of BN6/BN7 original  chassis ID plates were of type 2 - but 
> the only plates
> that vendors seem to stock now are type 1....
>
> Can any of you Healey gurus help me out here as to:
>
> 1. Confirming which is the correct original style chassis ID plate?
>
> and assuming type 2 is correct for my car -
>
> 2. Who stocks the type 2 chassis ID plate?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Bill.

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sun Oct 14 17:58:05 2007
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 19:58:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Digest version
In-Reply-To: <47129F2C.6090200@wowway.com>
References: <47129F2C.6090200@wowway.com>
Message-ID: <4712AD0D.9050208@earthlink.net>

Dan,

The healey mailing list is available two ways - 1) individual emails and 2) 
one email with all of the day's messages (digest).

Bob

Daniel and Diane White wrote:
> A question for you listers who know more about computers than I do 
> (which equates to 100%).  What does "receiving the digest version" of 
> the messages on the list mean?
> Dan White
> '62 BN 7

From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net  Sun Oct 14 19:24:48 2007
From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ronald J. Ray)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 20:24:48 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Marque Article, FWIW
In-Reply-To: <002001c80e67$16cf8be0$cbe7fc04@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <EKEAINGPLPLMGCBCJIDKCEILCOAA.ronald-ray@sbcglobal.net>

And did you notice the cover picture is from 2005?
Could have just been a slow lazy month overall

Great looking car though, which I have had the privilege of driving.
The Wirkens (not Wirkin as spelled in the 10-07 Marque) also have a great
looking red rally style BJ7 that won First in Modified class at Conclave
2007

Ron



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+ronald-ray=sbcglobal.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ronald-ray=sbcglobal.net at autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Mark and Kathy
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 8:35 AM
To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Marque Article, FWIW


Must have been a slow article month for the Marque.  Ten pages on a Master
Cylinder mod is way off the Marque,  IMHO.

Not to mention  boring as it drug along.

What we're you thinking Reid?  I have some short , actually doable, mods if
you need some filler.  Wow!

Flame away,    Mark

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Sun Oct 14 19:49:50 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 21:49:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Phishing or real?
Message-ID: <380-220071011514950453@earthlink.net>

AOL is long gone from my vocabulary.  It blocked just about everything.  I
kinda like Earthlink.

tom  


> [Original Message]
> From: John Sims <ahbn6 at optonline.net>
> To: Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>; <Awgertoo at aol.com>
> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 10/14/2007 9:24:47 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Phishing or real?
>
> There is nothing worse than a reformed sinner. I can remember quite well
> when AOL first started, they encouraged bulk emails because they got
revenue
> from the large senders. Then, they realized that most of the bulk emails
> were SPAM and put filters on their system so harsh that several years ago,
> they blocked my ISP --Optimum on line (Cablevision) because of the large
> number of emails transiting their system with the @optonline.net email
> ending. This lasted for about a month in which no one on the Cablevision
> system could send emails to an AOL customer. So, those of us who saw the
> light and used Cablevision instead of AOL were penalized. I remember the
> conversation with the Cablevision techies who flat told me that
Cablevision
> was going to sue AOL if the restrictions were not lifted.
>
> I have friends who believe AOL's propaganda that if they move from AOL,
they
> will no longer be able to send or receive emails. They continue to use AOL
> in fear even though they have cable modems and access to the cable
company's
> ISP. Go figure!
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>  
> www.healey6.com
>  
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Bob
> Haskell
> Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 9:01 AM
> To: Awgertoo at aol.com
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Phishing or real?
>
> Micheal,
>
> I think it's legit. mjb has made comments in the past of problems with
AOL.
> Are you still getting mail from the list? I'd think you'd be able to check
> the status by clicking on the link at the bottom of any (known legit)
email
> you received from the list.  Just a guess.
>
>
> Bill,
>
> "bounce" means that mail to Micheal couldn't be delivered and was
returned.
>
> If you want some more info: go to http://www.goggle.com and enter "define:
> bounce" without the quotes in the  text box. Hit the search button and it
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From NPaul72464 at aol.com  Sun Oct 14 19:56:29 2007
From: NPaul72464 at aol.com (NPaul72464 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 21:56:29 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] radiator hose leak while on a western adventure
 Resolution
Message-ID: <bd0.1b550ef2.344422cd@aol.com>

Good news.  With the hose taped and the cap loose, my son and I easily  made 
it the 150 miles from Kayenta, AZ to the Grand Canyon.  As a few  mentioned, 
it was a great time of year to have the problem.  Weather was  cool and so was 
the Healey, never going over 180 degrees.  The new hose  arrives at our hotel 
on Tues.  In the meantime, we'll enjoy this  breathtaking place.
 
Thanks to all who shared ideas and encouragement.  2500 more miles and  we'll 
be back in Webster, NY.
 
Ned, and Andrew, Paulsen



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From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Sun Oct 14 20:11:09 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 22:11:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Marque Article, FWIW
Message-ID: <380-2200710115211978@earthlink.net>

I should keep my mouth shut-----but----:):).  Listen folks----developing a
magazine like this is difficult.  So there is one publication out of many
that is not to someone's liking.  What about the other many fine
publications and articles?  We are so prone to jump on someone when things
are "bad", but not real free with the thanks when they are great.

Just my 2 C's.

tom  


> [Original Message]
> From: Ronald J. Ray <ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net>
> To: Mark and Kathy <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>; <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
> Date: 10/14/2007 9:22:33 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Marque Article, FWIW
>
> And did you notice the cover picture is from 2005?
> Could have just been a slow lazy month overall
>
> Great looking car though, which I have had the privilege of driving.
> The Wirkens (not Wirkin as spelled in the 10-07 Marque) also have a great
> looking red rally style BJ7 that won First in Modified class at Conclave
> 2007
>
> Ron
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+ronald-ray=sbcglobal.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+ronald-ray=sbcglobal.net at autox.team.net]On
> Behalf Of Mark and Kathy
> Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 8:35 AM
> To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net
> Subject: [Healeys] Healey Marque Article, FWIW
>
>
> Must have been a slow article month for the Marque.  Ten pages on a Master
> Cylinder mod is way off the Marque,  IMHO.
>
> Not to mention  boring as it drug along.
>
> What we're you thinking Reid?  I have some short , actually doable, mods
if
> you need some filler.  Wow!
>
> Flame away,    Mark
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From DRACMARINE at aol.com  Sun Oct 14 20:16:34 2007
From: DRACMARINE at aol.com (DRACMARINE at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 22:16:34 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Nash Healey
Message-ID: <c6d.19e29575.34442782@aol.com>

I just used a new one to renew my membership to the Healey club.  :^).  Our 
membership chairman hopefully noticed it.
 
Richard of KY/CA
1960 BN7 440



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From AHMG at aol.com  Sun Oct 14 21:13:33 2007
From: AHMG at aol.com (AHMG at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 23:13:33 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] test
Message-ID: <c4c.1f40d4a1.344434dd@aol.com>

************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From shop at justbrits.com  Sun Oct 14 21:31:51 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 22:31:51 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  test
Message-ID: <027201c80edb$ed5a6490$6601a8c0@actualshop>

See, another aol OOOOPPPPSSSSYYYYY!!!!!!!

----- Original Message -----
From: AHMG at aol.com
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 10:13 PM
Subject: [Healeys] test


************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Sun Oct 14 21:35:05 2007
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 20:35:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Phishing or real?
References: <380-220071011514950453@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <001e01c80edc$619e7df0$6501a8c0@XPS400>

I've used Earthlink from day one of the internet when Earthlink was just a 
local California company and I have never had a problem with it.
Ron 

From Editorgary at aol.com  Sun Oct 14 22:47:02 2007
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 00:47:02 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Primrose Yellow
Message-ID: <c41.1eb39db6.34444ac6@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/14/07 8:33:54 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
writes:


> The yellow on this months issue has a definite green cast to it and theB 
> inside article pictures have an even more defined green cast.B  Is this
justB 
> a
> result of poor color rendition during the printing process?B  Or doesB 
> Primrose
> Yellow have a green cast to it?
>
The "Primrose" shade, like "Healey Blue" did vary from car to car and year to
year, sometimes lighter yellow and sometimes darker yellow. I adjusted the
cover within the range I could, but didn't spend as much time on the interior
photographs, since we were interested in showing model details rather than
color
shade.
That having been said, if you photograph a very highly polished primrose car
at high noon on a clear day in a place with clear air b the conditions under
which this one was shot during the time when the car was available -- the
finish will reflect the blue of the sky in the yellow of the paint. Result:
Green.
When the car is photographed again for the full color restoration book that we
contemplate, we'll have the luxury of time to permit finding a good spot with
the right backdrop that allows us to photograph early in the morning or late
in the afternoon to get as close to accurate a shade as possible.
But the moral of the story is still: if you want to look at color shades that
will be sprayed on a car, never trust any publication short of one that is
printed by a specialist in rendering accurate color shades (such as Pikovnik
used in his excellent Healey colors reference book which was printed by a firm
specializing in make-up shade cards). It is almost impossible to get exact
color
renderings except once in awhile by accident, and lighter shades are the most
difficult.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
Healey.org



**************************************
 See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From rrengineer at dslextreme.com  Sun Oct 14 22:53:55 2007
From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer at dslextreme.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 21:53:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Phishing or real?
In-Reply-To: <001e01c80edc$619e7df0$6501a8c0@XPS400>
References: <380-220071011514950453@earthlink.net>
	<001e01c80edc$619e7df0$6501a8c0@XPS400>
Message-ID: <3064ca823c5a78fbea36cc7a.20071014215355.eeratvarre@www.dslextreme.com>

I too used Earthlink for many years until about a year and a half ago when
I called tech support and got someone in India.  I immediately switched to
DSL Extreme for my DSL.  It's cheaper and tech support is still someone in
California.  I have not had any problems with it.
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5


Ron Fine
> I've used Earthlink from day one of the internet when Earthlink was just a
> local California company and I have never had a problem with it.
> Ron
> _______________________________________________
> rrengineer at dslextreme.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From eschulz at frontiernet.net  Sun Oct 14 21:33:55 2007
From: eschulz at frontiernet.net (Elton Schulz)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 23:33:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Marque Article, FWIW
References: <002001c80e67$16cf8be0$cbe7fc04@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <00c601c80edc$38343a40$bf5d6546@655vb01>

I look forward to the technical articles in the magazine, the last issue 
being no exception.
Elton
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark and Kathy" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
To: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 9:34 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Marque Article, FWIW


> Must have been a slow article month for the Marque.  Ten pages on a Master
> Cylinder mod is way off the Marque,  IMHO.
>
> Not to mention  boring as it drug along.
>
> What we're you thinking Reid?  I have some short , actually doable, mods 
> if
> you need some filler.  Wow!
>
> Flame away,    Mark
> _______________________________________________
> eschulz at frontiernet.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From rjswain at hotmail.com  Mon Oct 15 05:37:40 2007
From: rjswain at hotmail.com (Rick Swain)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 11:37:40 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Marque Article, FWIW
In-Reply-To: <380-2200710115211978@earthlink.net>
References: <380-2200710115211978@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <BAY112-W55926396F53BAE5158487B5A30@phx.gbl>

I haven't received my copy of the issues in question yet BUT it seems to me a
tech article with lots and lots of detail is preferable to one that doesn't
include enough information to be useful. I  somtimes find  articles in major
magazines, not Healey Marque and not only automotive publications, just
tantalise you but don't provide enough detail to be really useful.

Rick Swain
'59 BN4 (with a new email address because my old server claims too much spam
originates from Autox and has blacklisted them. The result was that I was
unsubscribed, I guess, and my server won't do anything about it unless I can
provide the full "bounce" messages that they, themselves, sent to Autox that
resulted in me being unsubscribed. Easier to get a Hotmail account than chase
their messages down by bothering Autox's owner. Hey this has gotten into
another subject area completely.)
_________________________________________________________________
Are you ready for Windows Live Messenger Beta 8.5 ? Get the latest for free
today!

From JNBrashear at garverengineers.com  Mon Oct 15 07:28:12 2007
From: JNBrashear at garverengineers.com (Brashear, Jack, N)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 08:28:12 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Distributor Lube Thingy - DM6A
Message-ID: <2D0989D186D44349BE853EE6CFC87AE60364AFCB@glitas07.garverinc.local>

Hi All, I'm reassembling my DM6A dizzy but I'm confused about the
lubricator assembly.  It seems to have an inner spring under the
threaded cap and another spring that looks it's in mid-air inside the
distributor case.  What keeps that spring in place??  Is this really how
it goes together??  Does it rub against the drive spindle??  None of my
manuals gives me any information.  What's the grease recommendation??
Someone please help as I need to get the old girl ready for a local
show-n-shine in a few days.  As always, thanks to this great list.

Jack

From fredwescoe at windstream.net  Mon Oct 15 08:38:10 2007
From: fredwescoe at windstream.net (Fred Wescoe)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 10:38:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Registry
Message-ID: <007b01c80f39$02a80f20$6500a8c0@D10F7N31>

Will the keeper of the BJ7 registry please contact me off list.

Thanks,

Fred
63 BJ7

From autofarm at cyg.net  Mon Oct 15 08:55:48 2007
From: autofarm at cyg.net (Bob Yule)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 10:55:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] County water pumps
Message-ID: <000901c80f3b$7a669750$6400a8c0@OFFICE>

    Just a follow up to the thread of last week about County water pumps.  We
have been selling these units for over 20 years, and as far as I can remember,
have only encountered one problem in that time and it was a problem with
pulley fit and not a pump failure.  Having said that, I do realise that some
of our trusted brands are now more & more being manufactured in low rent
countries, and some of the quality might not be what we would like.  I am not
aware of this being a problem with County water pumps though. ymmv
Cheers.......Bob
Check out our web site www.autofarm.net

From JNBrashear at garverengineers.com  Mon Oct 15 08:57:53 2007
From: JNBrashear at garverengineers.com (Brashear, Jack, N)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 09:57:53 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  County water pumps
In-Reply-To: <00db01c80d35$acbaa500$8c632bd1@iquest.net>
Message-ID: <2D0989D186D44349BE853EE6CFC87AE60364B084@glitas07.garverinc.local>

My first brand-new County water pump failed at 1,130 miles. Its
replacement (also County) failed at about 640 miles.  The third try
(also County) has about 360 miles on it and is starting to make bad
noises.  There just must be some other brand available besides this
junk.  Oh yes...my fan belt IS NOT too tight.  Sheesh...
Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+jnbrashear=garverengineers.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+jnbrashear=garverengineers.com at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Craig and Sue Rice
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 8:09 PM
To: Bob & Melanie Haskell
Cc: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: County water pumps

----- Original Message -----
From: "Craig and Sue Rice" <craigsuerice at iquest.net>
To: "Bob Haskell" <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 12:58 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] County water pumps


> Bob,
> Peter Caldwell at World Wide Auto Parts is rebuilding water pumps
using
> modern day innards.
> Craig Rice
> BN1 & BN2
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Haskell" <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
> To: "healeylist" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 8:00 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] County water pumps
>
>
> > Folks,
> >
> > After 3,000 miles the County water pump in my 62 BT7 needs
replacing.
I'm
> > guessing the bearings are shot - it rumbles at 1000 rpm and I can
wiggle
> > the fan blades (at 0 rpm) and watch the pulley rock.
> >
> > The spare in the boot is also a County.  So I'm wondering if I'm
going
to
> > have to replace it in another year or so?  Have there been other
problems
> > with the County water pumps?  Is there a better pump available?
> >
> > Is anyone rebuilding pumps?
> >
> > Bob
> > _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
jnbrashear at garverengineers.com

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From price at advocateadvisors.com  Mon Oct 15 09:04:01 2007
From: price at advocateadvisors.com (R. Price Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 10:04:01 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] [SPAM] - Re: Fw: County water pumps - Email found in
 subject
References: <2D0989D186D44349BE853EE6CFC87AE60364B084@glitas07.garverinc.local>
Message-ID: <8980C46D80E81640B5A712F2DE6E00EE0D10BA@advfs2.advocateadvisors.com>

So that I can set my expectations, from where are people buying these
bad pumps?  I replaced my pump from Moss this summer and have about
2,000 miles on it without issue.  I don't have any idea if it's a County
water pump or not; is there a way to tell once installed and no record
trail?

Price Lindsay
'67 BJ 8

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+price=advocateadvisors.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+price=advocateadvisors.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Brashear, Jack, N
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 9:58 AM
To: Craig and Sue Rice; Bob & MelanieHaskell
Cc: Healey List
Subject: [SPAM] - Re: [Healeys] Fw: County water pumps - Email found in
subject

My first brand-new County water pump failed at 1,130 miles. Its
replacement (also County) failed at about 640 miles.  The third try
(also County) has about 360 miles on it and is starting to make bad
noises.  There just must be some other brand available besides this
junk.  Oh yes...my fan belt IS NOT too tight.  Sheesh...
Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+jnbrashear=garverengineers.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+jnbrashear=garverengineers.com at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Craig and Sue Rice
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 8:09 PM
To: Bob & Melanie Haskell
Cc: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: County water pumps

----- Original Message -----
From: "Craig and Sue Rice" <craigsuerice at iquest.net>
To: "Bob Haskell" <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 12:58 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] County water pumps


> Bob,
> Peter Caldwell at World Wide Auto Parts is rebuilding water pumps
using
> modern day innards.
> Craig Rice
> BN1 & BN2
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Haskell" <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
> To: "healeylist" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 8:00 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] County water pumps
>
>
> > Folks,
> >
> > After 3,000 miles the County water pump in my 62 BT7 needs
replacing.
I'm
> > guessing the bearings are shot - it rumbles at 1000 rpm and I can
wiggle
> > the fan blades (at 0 rpm) and watch the pulley rock.
> >
> > The spare in the boot is also a County.  So I'm wondering if I'm
going
to
> > have to replace it in another year or so?  Have there been other
problems
> > with the County water pumps?  Is there a better pump available?
> >
> > Is anyone rebuilding pumps?
> >
> > Bob
> > _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
jnbrashear at garverengineers.com

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
_______________________________________________
price at advocateadvisors.com

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From Kendall.Freese at aerojet.com  Mon Oct 15 09:50:47 2007
From: Kendall.Freese at aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 08:50:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] AH Spares upholstery
In-Reply-To: <4710CB2B.000003.01348@YOUR-55E5F9E3D2>
References: <4710CB2B.000003.01348@YOUR-55E5F9E3D2>
Message-ID: <1B3BD9CCDD89084C9CC405C3258017F501ED40F9@SACMAIL1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

Mel,
I got some door panels from VB which had AH Spares stickers on the back.
The workmanship was average. Staples, not the very best cardboard,
cardboard showing in maybe two corners. I think it was quality equal to
the price. In ten years, maybe I will get a Heritage interior, but its
fine for my driver.
Ken Freese
65 Healey

" I am planning to buy a complete upholstery set including carpets from
AH Spares.  Has anyone had experience with them on upholstery and can
give me feedback. Also, I realize the dollar is dropping like a flying
crowbar and the freight is not cheap, but are there import duty fees
applicable as well.


Mel Brunet
HBJ8L/ 39749
Land O Lakes, FL

From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net  Mon Oct 15 10:27:38 2007
From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 09:27:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Went to a great car show this weekend!
Message-ID: <011701c80f48$558c7730$0400a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>

My wife and I went to a great car show this weekend.  The Valley British Auto
Club has a show in Clovis, CA (Fresno) every year.  This year they had a two
day event.  On Saturday, there was a driving rally and a timed ralley.  On
Sunday, they had a car show on the streets of old Clovis.

The driving rally was great.  A drive into the foothills with many twisty
roads.  They had two groups of drivers.  An Agressive group and a "speed
limit" group.  I went with the agressive group and had the most fun since the
autocross at the Tahoe meet.  On the way back we had about 20 miles of very
twisty roads where I was following a new mini and an old mini.  I was driving
as fast as I could and had trouble keeping up with those two cars.   The
"govener" in the right seat only complained once, when the back end of the car
lost a little traction making a tight turn.  Those front wheel cars can really
turn.  I could catch them on the short straight portions.  Many of you would
love this drive.

I missed the afternoon timed rally as my brake lights quit and my wife and I
spent an hour testing electrical circuits until we decided that the brake
pressure switch was not working consistently.

The car show was great also.  About 100 cars, very nice display.  It was on
closed off streets and made for a good show because many of the shops were
open and there was a antique show at the same time.  The club did a great job.

Nice to have clubs with great volunteers to put on shows like this!

Jerry
BN4

From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net  Mon Oct 15 10:34:16 2007
From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 09:34:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Sidecurtain Securing Plate Assembly
Message-ID: <012601c80f49$3b06cdb0$0400a8c0@cardinalhealth.net>

I have the MOSS reproductions that were purchased about 7 years ago.  These
Sidecurtain Securing Plate Assembly are Chrome and have a post coming out of
the middle of the triangle to hold the sidecurtains onto the door.  The post
on both of mine won't keep from turning in the mount.  They are pressed into
the plate rather than welded.  It must be cheaper to chrome the pieces
separatly and then press them together.  Does anyone know of pieces that are
welded?  I need to replace these.  It is a problem when you can't get the
curtains off.

Jerry
BN4

From TimWardUK at aol.com  Mon Oct 15 12:06:53 2007
From: TimWardUK at aol.com (TimWardUK at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 14:06:53 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Bouncing?
Message-ID: <d55.1697beec.3445063d@aol.com>

Hi List
 
What does the following mean please, and is there something I should  do?
 
Your membership in the mailing list Healeys has been  disabled due to
excessive bounces The last bounce received from you was  dated
15-Oct-2007.  You will not get any more messages from this list  until
you re-enable your membership.  You will receive 3 more reminders  like
this before your membership in the list is deleted.

To re-enable  your membership, you can simply respond to this message
(leaving the Subject:  line intact), or visit the confirmation page at
 
Thank you
 
BJ8 67
Frogeye 59
 
Tim Ward
Warwick House 
12 Mill  Road
Kislingbury
Northants. NN7 4BB
Tel: 07855 388 751

_www.SixSigmaWorks.co.uk_ (http://www.sixsigmaworks.co.uk/) 
www.TimWardAssociates.com

From KingR44916 at aol.com  Mon Oct 15 13:58:27 2007
From: KingR44916 at aol.com (KingR44916 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 15:58:27 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] winter storage
Message-ID: <caf.1e99818c.34452063@aol.com>

anyone on this list live in rockland co ny



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From JNBrashear at garverengineers.com  Mon Oct 15 14:16:19 2007
From: JNBrashear at garverengineers.com (Brashear, Jack, N)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 15:16:19 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] A newbie friend needs a couple of email links
Message-ID: <2D0989D186D44349BE853EE6CFC87AE60364B24D@glitas07.garverinc.local>

Hi All.  If someone out there will be kind enough, I need a link (to
forward to a friend) for subscribing to this list and a link so he can
contact the BMIHT for his BN4's birth certificate.  Many thanks,

Jack

From sdesalvo at frontiernet.net  Mon Oct 15 15:20:34 2007
From: sdesalvo at frontiernet.net (Sam DeSalvo)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 17:20:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] radiator over flow problem
Message-ID: <002d01c80f71$392c8840$82696546@VALUEDECECF7F4>

New problem for Healey guys and gals. As my 100-4 is warming, I get a sudden
gush of Antifreeze from (I assume) the over flow.The engine has just been
rebuilt. About a 1/2 quart ends up on the floor. I let the engine continue to
run, didn't overheat. It has done this several times. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Sam

From ahbn6 at optonline.net  Mon Oct 15 15:31:15 2007
From: ahbn6 at optonline.net (John Sims)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 17:31:15 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] radiator over flow problem
In-Reply-To: <002d01c80f71$392c8840$82696546@VALUEDECECF7F4>
References: <002d01c80f71$392c8840$82696546@VALUEDECECF7F4>
Message-ID: <002601c80f72$b7c79d60$6500a8c0@simsoffice>

I used  to have this problem. It was diagnosed as GERDS. Got out of the
hospital a month ago to have the problem surgically corrected.

Seriously though, take a look at the overflow bottles, etc. on various web
sites including mine.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com
 


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sam
DeSalvo
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 5:21 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] radiator over flow problem

New problem for Healey guys and gals. As my 100-4 is warming, I get a sudden
gush of Antifreeze from (I assume) the over flow.The engine has just been
rebuilt. About a 1/2 quart ends up on the floor. I let the engine continue
to
run, didn't overheat. It has done this several times. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Sam

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Mon Oct 15 15:43:01 2007
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 17:43:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] [SPAM] - Re: Fw: County water pumps - Email found in
 subject
In-Reply-To: <8980C46D80E81640B5A712F2DE6E00EE0D10BA@advfs2.advocateadvisors.com>
References: <2D0989D186D44349BE853EE6CFC87AE60364B084@glitas07.garverinc.local>
	<8980C46D80E81640B5A712F2DE6E00EE0D10BA@advfs2.advocateadvisors.com>
Message-ID: <4713DEE5.3090800@earthlink.net>

Price,

I bought my two County pumps from Moss.  The one I purchased last year had 
the word "COUNTY" on the "tube" the lower radiator hose attaches to.  The 
one I bought earlier this year did not.

Bob

R. Price Lindsay wrote:
> So that I can set my expectations, from where are people buying these
> bad pumps?  I replaced my pump from Moss this summer and have about
> 2,000 miles on it without issue.  I don't have any idea if it's a County
> water pump or not; is there a way to tell once installed and no record
> trail?
> 
> Price Lindsay
> '67 BJ 8

From kentmclean at comcast.net  Mon Oct 15 15:57:33 2007
From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 17:57:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Junior 3000GT
Message-ID: <1192485453.5790.2.camel@tosh>

Has this been posted here yet?
http://www.junior3000gt.com/junior-3000gt-pictures2.php

They definitely got the look right.

-- 
Kent McLean
'56 100 BN2

From bighealey at charter.net  Mon Oct 15 16:05:09 2007
From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 15:05:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] radiator over flow problem
In-Reply-To: <002d01c80f71$392c8840$82696546@VALUEDECECF7F4>
Message-ID: <20071015180509.R666T.34339.root@fepweb05>

Sam,

Now that it has settled itself on it's desired amout of coolant.  See how it runs.  
The things do not necessarily like to run full to the brim with coolant and will puke excess.  It will likely settle just above the core.  

I added an aluminium  overflow catch tank that works pretty slick from Summit Racing.  I'll try to get it posted up on healey.org if your interested.  It at least keeps the thing from puking on the tarmack on a REALLY hot day.

Oh and yes what pressure cap are you running by the way?

Cheers!

Tracy 

http://healey.org

---- Sam DeSalvo <sdesalvo at frontiernet.net> wrote: 
> New problem for Healey guys and gals. As my 100-4 is warming, I get a sudden
> gush of Antifreeze from (I assume) the over flow.The engine has just been
> rebuilt. About a 1/2 quart ends up on the floor. I let the engine continue to
> run, didn't overheat. It has done this several times. Any ideas?
> Thanks,
> Sam
> _______________________________________________
> bighealey at charter.net 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From ahbn6 at optonline.net  Mon Oct 15 16:24:35 2007
From: ahbn6 at optonline.net (John Sims)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 18:24:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Junior 3000GT
In-Reply-To: <1192485453.5790.2.camel@tosh>
References: <1192485453.5790.2.camel@tosh>
Message-ID: <002801c80f7a$2ae7a4f0$6500a8c0@simsoffice>

I remember several years ago someone in OZ (I think) made a 1/4 scale Healey
for his kids or grandkids and was thinking of taking orders. Whatever
happened to that????

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com
 


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Kent McLean
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 5:58 PM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Junior 3000GT

Has this been posted here yet?
http://www.junior3000gt.com/junior-3000gt-pictures2.php

They definitely got the look right.

--
Kent McLean
'56 100 BN2

From rwil at sbcglobal.net  Mon Oct 15 16:28:02 2007
From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 15:28:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Marque Article, FWIW
In-Reply-To: <00c601c80edc$38343a40$bf5d6546@655vb01>
References: <002001c80e67$16cf8be0$cbe7fc04@markl946cfrd7q>
	<00c601c80edc$38343a40$bf5d6546@655vb01>
Message-ID: <pkp7h3tt6453k1ohj5qdtf2cj9vkr40gto@4ax.com>

OK, now I have found the October issue (lost under some bills) and
read it.  I like the article on master cylinders.  I like it even
though I have a Healey Hundred and don't expect to ever install two
master cylinders.  The article contained enough information that
practically anyone could learn more about their car's brake system
than they knew before.  I hope that Mark will like the contents of the
November issue better than he liked the October one.

Many car magazines have tech articles that are incomplete and
inaccurate.  They are sometimes little more than ads for some
specialty parts.  That can get very frustrating for me.  The two
largest  American Healey magazines have never gone that route.  I
think I have read every issue of Healey Marque and  its predecessors,
and A-H magazine as well.

-Roland
BN1 in San Diego

From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au  Mon Oct 15 16:44:43 2007
From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 08:44:43 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Junior 3000GT
In-Reply-To: <002801c80f7a$2ae7a4f0$6500a8c0@simsoffice>
References: <1192485453.5790.2.camel@tosh>
	<002801c80f7a$2ae7a4f0$6500a8c0@simsoffice>
Message-ID: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C70169EC48@itfexch5.central.det.win>

G'day

It is the same bloke. It was for a 1/2 scale 3000, initially as a
motorised child's car which evolved into a go kart.

Colin Rule has been an Austin-Healey owner for over 30 years and
restoring them for over 20.

I have seen them both and vouch for the workmanship.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+patrick.quinn=det.nsw.edu.au at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+patrick.quinn=det.nsw.edu.au at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of John Sims
Sent: Tuesday, 16 October 2007 8:25 AM
To: 'Kent McLean'; 'healeys'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Junior 3000GT

I remember several years ago someone in OZ (I think) made a 1/4 scale
Healey
for his kids or grandkids and was thinking of taking orders. Whatever
happened to that????

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Kent McLean
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 5:58 PM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Junior 3000GT

Has this been posted here yet?
http://www.junior3000gt.com/junior-3000gt-pictures2.php

They definitely got the look right.

--
Kent McLean
'56 100 BN2
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Mon Oct 15 17:56:39 2007
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 16:56:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Marque Article, FWIW
In-Reply-To: <pkp7h3tt6453k1ohj5qdtf2cj9vkr40gto@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <641111.42494.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Roland ... do you have my book Tech Talk??  you will
have read my articles in the Healey magazines ... some
have been used in Healey club magazines in other
countries ... Tech Talk is available see below..
. 
      Norman Nock 


   TECH TALK by  Norman Nock
  l have been writing technical articles 
for Healey clubs for over 20 years .
After numerous requests , l have
gathered them together, along with
some never before published
articles and had them spiral 
bound in book form
       $ 35.00 + $7.50 in USA


         259 pages

     Updated Annually

     British Car Specialists ( established 1957 )
    2060 N Wilson Way .. Stockton CA 95205
   Phone # (209) 948-8767
  FAX # (209)948-1030

www.britishcarspecialists.com 





--- Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> OK, now I have found the October issue (lost under
> some bills) and
> read it.  I like the article on master cylinders.  I
> like it even
> though I have a Healey Hundred and don't expect to
> ever install two
> master cylinders.  The article contained enough
> information that
> practically anyone could learn more about their
> car's brake system
> than they knew before.  I hope that Mark will like
> the contents of the
> November issue better than he liked the October one.
> 
> Many car magazines have tech articles that are
> incomplete and
> inaccurate.  They are sometimes little more than ads
> for some
> specialty parts.  That can get very frustrating for
> me.  The two
> largest  American Healey magazines have never gone
> that route.  I
> think I have read every issue of Healey Marque and 
> its predecessors,
> and A-H magazine as well.
> 
> -Roland
> BN1 in San Diego
> _______________________________________________
> sjnnock at sbcglobal.net 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From rca53 at columbia.edu  Mon Oct 15 18:43:09 2007
From: rca53 at columbia.edu (Atkinson, Robert)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 20:43:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Insurance Question
Message-ID: <CCFF454263DBC147A26828D7FB6DA9B4231163@mailex2.gsb.columbia.edu>

I can't seem to find the right combination of insurance coverage: I
currently have "Classic Car" insurance which is very inexpensive but
restricts how I can use my car. Next year, I want to use it as an
everyday car during the warm months.  I have no problem with an annual
mileage limitation that comes with classic car registration in New
Jersey but don't want an insurance restriction on using it go shopping
or to work, for example.  A conventional policy would be more expensive
but has no usage restrictions (and cost isn't my principal concern: I
want liability protection however I use the car.)  The problem with
conventional insurance is there is no "agreed value" as with the Classic
Car insurance and my agent says that the insurance companies she
represents would value my '66 BJ8 at about zero in case of an accident
simply because of its age versus the $30K agreed value with the Classic
Car policy.

So, is it possible to get an "agreed value" AND no usage restrictions?
I'd be happy to buy two policies: a Classic Car policy to get the agreed
value and a conventional policy for the "no restrictions" (understanding
that the Classic Car firm might reject an agreed value claim if any loss
was in connection with a prohibited use such as leaving the Healey in a
parking lot while I'm shopping.) BUT my insurance agent says that can't
be done: you can't have two policies-even insuring different
interests--on one car.

Suggestions?  Experiences? Better agent?

Thanks

Bob Atkinson

From rthrift at cox.net  Mon Oct 15 19:33:22 2007
From: rthrift at cox.net (RThrift)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 18:33:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Insurance Question
In-Reply-To: <CCFF454263DBC147A26828D7FB6DA9B4231163@mailex2.gsb.columbi a.edu>
References: <CCFF454263DBC147A26828D7FB6DA9B4231163@mailex2.gsb.columbia.edu>
Message-ID: <20071016013350.ZFUM6433.fed1rmmtao105.cox.net@fed1rmimpo03.cox.net>

   You  didn't  mention  your ins. company, or which companies your agent
   represents.   I  did  have  an agreed value and no usage restrictions,
   with  AAA  in California (until I switched to classic coverage a month
   ago).   AAA  just  took  photos of the car for verification.  Policies
   will  differ  in  different states.  But I'd say it's time to shop for
   different insurance or agent.
   Richard
   At 08:43 PM 10/15/2007 -0400, Atkinson, Robert wrote:

     I can't seem to find the right combination of insurance coverage: I
     currently  have  "Classic  Car" insurance which is very inexpensive
     but
     restricts how I can use my car. Next year, I want to use it as an
     everyday  car  during  the  warm months.  I have no problem with an
     annual
     mileage limitation that comes with classic car registration in New
     Jersey  but  don't  want  an  insurance  restriction on using it go
     shopping
     or  to  work,  for  example.   A  conventional policy would be more
     expensive
     but has no usage restrictions (and cost isn't my principal concern:
     I
     want liability protection however I use the car.)  The problem with
     conventional  insurance  is  there is no "agreed value" as with the
     Classic
     Car insurance and my agent says that the insurance companies she
     represents  would  value  my  '66  BJ8  at about zero in case of an
     accident
     simply  because  of  its  age versus the $30K agreed value with the
     Classic
     Car policy.
     So,  is  it  possible  to  get  an  "agreed  value"  AND  no  usage
     restrictions?
     I'd  be  happy to buy two policies: a Classic Car policy to get the
     agreed
     value   and   a  conventional  policy  for  the  "no  restrictions"
     (understanding
     that the Classic Car firm might reject an agreed value claim if any
     loss
     was  in connection with a prohibited use such as leaving the Healey
     in a
     parking  lot  while I'm shopping.) BUT my insurance agent says that
     can't
     be done: you can't have two policies-even insuring different
     interests--on one car.
     Suggestions?  Experiences? Better agent?
     Thanks
     Bob Atkinson
     _______________________________________________
     rthrift at cox.net
     Healeys at autox.team.net
     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From 63AHBJ7 at comcast.net  Mon Oct 15 20:09:28 2007
From: 63AHBJ7 at comcast.net (63AHBJ7)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 21:09:28 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Insurance Question
References: <CCFF454263DBC147A26828D7FB6DA9B4231163@mailex2.gsb.columbia.edu>
	<20071016013350.ZFUM6433.fed1rmmtao105.cox.net@fed1rmimpo03.cox.net>
Message-ID: <045801c80f99$954db590$6601a8c0@actualshop>

<<But I'd say it's time to shop for different insurance or agent.>>

Have to strongly agree, Richard.

Time to do the "girly thing", Bob!!!

Shop!!!

LOL!!

Ed

From alan at andysnet.net  Mon Oct 15 20:30:59 2007
From: alan at andysnet.net (Alan Schultz)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 21:30:59 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Insurance Question
In-Reply-To: <CCFF454263DBC147A26828D7FB6DA9B4231163@mailex2.gsb.columbia.edu>
References: <CCFF454263DBC147A26828D7FB6DA9B4231163@mailex2.gsb.columbia.edu>
Message-ID: <47142263.5010609@andysnet.net>

Check Hagerty Insurance.
Alan Schultz

Atkinson, Robert wrote:
> I can't seem to find the right combination of insurance coverage: I
> currently have "Classic Car" insurance which is very inexpensive but

From rusd at sitestar.net  Mon Oct 15 20:40:48 2007
From: rusd at sitestar.net (Dave Russell)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 20:40:48 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Insurance Question
In-Reply-To: <CCFF454263DBC147A26828D7FB6DA9B4231163@mailex2.gsb.columbia.edu>
References: <CCFF454263DBC147A26828D7FB6DA9B4231163@mailex2.gsb.columbia.edu>
Message-ID: <471424B0.9040602@sitestar.net>

Hi Bob,

In my years of driving experience, 95% of my car damages have occurred 
in public parking lots, always "hit & run".

On my Healey, even a mild front, rear, or side bump would do several 
thousand dollars worth of damage. It doesn't even have one MPH bumpers.

I wouldn't dream of parking the car  in a crowded public lot.  I don't 
see how you could use it to "go shopping",  in most places,  without 
exposure to other driver's mistakes. I'm sure that my "collector" 
insurance company sees it the same way - thus their rules.

My daily drivers have sustained some fairly hard bumps with 
insignificant damage. Whole different situation than the Healey.

Regards,
Dave Russell
BN2



Atkinson, Robert wrote:

>  Next year, I want to use it as an everyday car during the warm
>  months. I have no problem with an annual mileage limitation that
>  comes with classic car registration in New Jersey but don't want an
>  insurance restriction on using it go shopping or to work, for
>  example.
>
>  Suggestions? Experiences? Better agent?
>
>  Thanks
>
>  Bob Atkinson

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Mon Oct 15 20:47:22 2007
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 22:47:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Insurance Question
In-Reply-To: <47142263.5010609@andysnet.net>
References: <CCFF454263DBC147A26828D7FB6DA9B4231163@mailex2.gsb.columbia.edu>
	<47142263.5010609@andysnet.net>
Message-ID: <E522349E-693B-4C97-A83A-ED50A8967C14@gmail.com>

I believe Hagerty has a restriction on driving to work.

Randy

Randy Hicks
'56 100M
'60 BN7 MkI
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com



On Oct 15, 2007, at 10:30 PM, Alan Schultz wrote:

> Check Hagerty Insurance.
> Alan Schultz
>
> Atkinson, Robert wrote:
>> I can't seem to find the right combination of insurance coverage: I
>> currently have "Classic Car" insurance which is very inexpensive but
> _______________________________________________
> healey100m at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From alan at andysnet.net  Mon Oct 15 20:58:07 2007
From: alan at andysnet.net (Alan Schultz)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 21:58:07 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Insurance Question
In-Reply-To: <E522349E-693B-4C97-A83A-ED50A8967C14@gmail.com>
References: <CCFF454263DBC147A26828D7FB6DA9B4231163@mailex2.gsb.columbia.edu>
	<47142263.5010609@andysnet.net>
	<E522349E-693B-4C97-A83A-ED50A8967C14@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <471428BF.8050100@andysnet.net>

Wouldn't hurt to ask. Maybe arrangements could be made to allow the 
usage at a reasonable rate.
Alan S
Randy Hicks wrote:
> I believe Hagerty has a restriction on driving to work.
>
> Randy
>
> Randy Hicks
>
>
> On Oct 15, 2007, at 10:30 PM, Alan Schultz wrote:
>
>> Check Hagerty Insurance.
>> Alan Schultz
>>
>> Atkinson, Robert wrote:
>>> I can't seem to find the right combination of insurance coverage: I
>>> currently have "Classic Car" insurance which is very inexpensive but
>> ________________

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Mon Oct 15 21:25:25 2007
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 23:25:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Soft top question bj8
Message-ID: <BAY108-W42696222BB4DE1FC073B6AC89C0@phx.gbl>

Hi everyone,
Well now I feel safe in saying that our '65 bj8 has really been resurrected
this time.  I would like to thank all who directly helped me with questions
during the restoration as well as those indirectly involved through their
responses to others with questions.  We are driving our car almost everyday
now shaking it down and working on the small details.  Boy these cars are a
kick to drive and real head turners.

I have a question now about the top.  We had an experienced upholstery shop
install a Robins Sunfast top.  It looks and fits very well, however there is a
space between the top seal and the center section of the windshield frame of
about 1/8" to 1/4" at the most.  The top sets down on the windshield posts OK
and is sealed going toward the center line of the windshield top frame for
about 1.5 ft. on each side, then it begins to separate from the windshield
along the centermost portion.  I placed a straight edge across the windshield
frame from post to post tonight and found it to be straight (flat).  Have any
of you had to deal with this before and how would you fix it?  Do you think I
could remove the vinyl from the header wood and plane down the part of the
wood resting on the windshield posts to close the gap in the middle?  Do you
think that the windshield upper frame member may be low in the center and that
maybe I need to remove the upper chrome frame piece and get an additional
packing piece of rubber placed in the channel between the gasket and the upper
frame member to raise it up to meet the header wood?  I hope that what I am
describing and asking is clear to you.  I know some of you must have run
across this.  I don't think the header is warped but it might be.  If I get
caught it rain I'll be in trouble with the water coming in there.

Thanks for any help,
George
'65 bj8
_________________________________________________________________
Help yourself to FREE treats served up daily at the Messenger Cafi. Stop by
today.
http://www.cafemessenger.com/info/info_sweetstuff2.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_OctWLt
agline

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Mon Oct 15 22:44:16 2007
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Leonard  Hartnett)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 21:44:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Insurance Question
In-Reply-To: <CCFF454263DBC147A26828D7FB6DA9B4231163@mailex2.gsb.columbia.edu>
References: <CCFF454263DBC147A26828D7FB6DA9B4231163@mailex2.gsb.columbia.edu>
Message-ID: <279349AB05AA49899D5F3AEB9A6B9721@LeonardPC>

A quote from Hagerty at the same coverage levels as my 'regular' policy was
only $26 per year less.  Not much of a savings and not what I was led to
believe from their advertising.  The economics get worse when one considers
that my multi-car discount on my regular policy ($98) would go away.

Hagerty requires that the car be in a garage when not in use (don't leave it
in the driveway), has a 5,000 mile limit (my average over the last 5 years
is a little over 4,000 miles annually), strongly discourages its use for any
personal trips, and requires that my wife and I each have our own 'other'
vehicle (this MIGHT be waived since we have no need for two other cars). The
only benefit I see is the agreed value coverage.  I do not consider my car a
'daily driver' but I do drive it whenever I have the opportunity and that
includes those personal trips to the barber shop or hardware store (local),
Fairfield (10 miles away), Vallejo (25 miles away), Sacramento (35 miles
away), etc, etc.  I could not live with the use restrictions.

As far as paying for damage to the Healey, carry a (disposible) camera in
the car (or a cell phone that takes pictures).  Assuming you
get hit and it's not your fault, pictures of the incident could lead to a
full insurance payoff of the repair costs.  It did for me.  I know - maybe
the other driver is not insured.  One can only hope that the uninsured
motorist coverage is worth the premium we have been paying.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville,  California,  USA
1967 3000 MKIII, HBJ8L39031

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Mon Oct 15 23:28:30 2007
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Leonard  Hartnett)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 22:28:30 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] How Many Bytes?
In-Reply-To: <CCFF454263DBC147A26828D7FB6DA9B4231163@mailex2.gsb.columbia.edu>
References: <CCFF454263DBC147A26828D7FB6DA9B4231163@mailex2.gsb.columbia.edu>
Message-ID: <BB41A6A6F7CA41C18A564B9045979752@LeonardPC>

My first attempt to send my last message created a 'bounce' because it was 
393 bytes over the 3KB limit.  That was because I did not delete or reduce 
the size of the original message.

So now, one has to wonder, is there any way to know how many bytes are in a 
message as one prepares a 'Reply' or Creates and e-mail to The List?

(The Other) Len
Vacaville,  California,  USA
1967 3000 MKIII, HBJ8L39031 

From rusd at sitestar.net  Mon Oct 15 23:34:03 2007
From: rusd at sitestar.net (Dave Russell)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 23:34:03 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Insurance Question
In-Reply-To: <279349AB05AA49899D5F3AEB9A6B9721@LeonardPC>
References: <CCFF454263DBC147A26828D7FB6DA9B4231163@mailex2.gsb.columbia.edu>
	<279349AB05AA49899D5F3AEB9A6B9721@LeonardPC>
Message-ID: <47144D4B.3070801@sitestar.net>

Too many claims & they will raise the rates or drop you, regardless of 
who is at fault.
D

Leonard Hartnett wrote:

>As far as paying for damage to the Healey, carry a (disposible) camera in
>the car (or a cell phone that takes pictures).  Assuming you
>get hit and it's not your fault, pictures of the incident could lead to a
>full insurance payoff of the repair costs.  It did for me.  I know - maybe
>the other driver is not insured.  One can only hope that the uninsured
>motorist coverage is worth the premium we have been paying.
>
>(The Other) Len
>Vacaville,  California,  USA
>1967 3000 MKIII, HBJ8L39031

From Editorgary at aol.com  Mon Oct 15 23:35:53 2007
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 01:35:53 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Insurance on daily driver classic cars
Message-ID: <c65.1e0a73f0.3445a7b9@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/15/07 7:34:15 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net 
writes:


> Check Hagerty Insurance.
> Alan Schultz
> 
> Atkinson, Robert wrote:
> > I can't seem to find the right combination of insurance coverage: I
> > currently have "Classic Car" insurance which is very inexpensive but
> 

Robert, shopping around is definitely a good thing to do, but since you do 
want to use the car as your everyday car, I doubt if any of the classic car 
insurance companies will give you the coverage you want. I know that most classic 
car policies, including Hagerty, require that you have another car that will 
be used for daily errands, commuting, etc. and will only insure your classic 
car for hobby use. In addition, some have specific limitations on usage -- can't 
be used to commute, for example, so don't expect to claim on it when it's 
stolen from the company parking lot during business hours -- and/or on annual 
mileage.
Instead, I think you may have to talk to one of the standard companies such 
as AAA, Firemans, or State Farm, and ask the agent if they offer an "agreed 
value" policy with standard road coverage on a classic car. I understand that 
some of the general auto companies are now doing that. In almost all cases, they 
will require pictures and a written appraisal to establish the car's value. 
Failing that, you may be able to get a "stated value" policy for what you 
consider a fair price for the car from a mainline company, but keep in mind that the 
company is not obligated to pay that stated value on your claim unless you 
can prove that it will cost you that much to fix or replace the car. Therefore, 
if you do get a stated value policy be sure that you've provided the agent 
with a written appraisal from an appraisal company that your insurance company 
will accept, so that they've got proof on file of the value and condition of the 
car before any claims are made. 
It can be very difficult after that fact to establish value for a car after 
it's been totalled, and impossible if it's been stolen. 



**************************************
 See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk  Tue Oct 16 01:52:47 2007
From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 08:52:47 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] radiator over flow problem
In-Reply-To: <002d01c80f71$392c8840$82696546@VALUEDECECF7F4>
References: <002d01c80f71$392c8840$82696546@VALUEDECECF7F4>
Message-ID: <+ivOezCP3GFHFwKt@jharper.demon.co.uk>

Sam

Is it possible that you fitted a type of thermostat without a venting 
'jiggle pin'?

I had this problem many years ago. What happens is that with the 
thermostat fully closed and no way for a small amount of coolant to move 
around the system and allow warm coolant to reach the thermostat bellows 
the thermostat doesn't open.

The coolant then boils inside the head. This cases back pressure and 
forces coolant out of the radiator overflow. Eventually steam or hot 
coolant will get to the bellows and they will open.. The system then 
operates normally as you describe.

I suggest that you have a look to see that you have the correct type of 
thermostat fitted.

Regards


>New problem for Healey guys and gals. As my 100-4 is warming, I get a sudden
>gush of Antifreeze from (I assume) the over flow.The engine has just been
>rebuilt. About a 1/2 quart ends up on the floor. I let the engine continue to
>run, didn't overheat. It has done this several times. Any ideas?
>Thanks,
>Sam
>_______________________________________________
>ah at jharper.demon.co.uk
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

-- 
John Harper

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Tue Oct 16 04:18:11 2007
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken))
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 12:18:11 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] How Many Bytes?
Message-ID: <009a01c80fdd$db1d2ad0$91578070$@com>

Hello Len (and all),

it just happened that I hit the "wrong" key on my keyboard while writing an
email and guess what showed up! A "statistic window" which shows among other
numbers the number of words and characters in the current mail.

I use the German version of Outlook 2007, so I don't know whether the same
shortcut applies to your application. Try <Ctrl>+<Caps>+<i>. As we now know
that there is a thing like this, browse your menu and look out for it, in
case the shortcut does not work with you. The shortcut is supposed to show
up next to the menu item.

Eric
http://brits-n-pieces.com



Leonard Hartnett wrote:

My first attempt to send my last message created a 'bounce' because it was 
393 bytes over the 3KB limit.  That was because I did not delete or reduce 
the size of the original message.

So now, one has to wonder, is there any way to know how many bytes are in a 
message as one prepares a 'Reply' or Creates and e-mail to The List?

(The Other) Len
Vacaville,  California,  USA
1967 3000 MKIII, HBJ8L39031

From wkollar at nycap.rr.com  Tue Oct 16 04:48:46 2007
From: wkollar at nycap.rr.com (William Kollar)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 05:48:46 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] How Many Bytes?
References: <009a01c80fdd$db1d2ad0$91578070$@com>
Message-ID: <02a401c80fe2$20bb9910$0602a8c0@Lily>

With Outlook Express if you "Close" and "Save" the email to your "Drafts" 
folder you can then highlight the email in the "Drafts" folder and select 
"Properties" from the "File" menu and it will tell you the size of the 
email.  After that you can just open the email again and continue to add or 
subtract from it as necessary.

From dwhite4949 at wowway.com  Tue Oct 16 06:49:02 2007
From: dwhite4949 at wowway.com (Daniel and Diane White)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 08:49:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Digest version
Message-ID: <4714B33E.3070004@wowway.com>

Thanks for responding to my question "what is the digest version of the 
list?".  Now I can "digest" all the great information that comes across 
the list.
Dan White
1962 BN7 Mk II

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Tue Oct 16 07:46:44 2007
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 09:46:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Soft top question bj8
References: <BAY108-W42696222BB4DE1FC073B6AC89C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <04da01c80ffa$fd725bb0$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>

George,

Due to your description I understand exactly what your problem is and it's 
relatively easy to fix.
The mounting brackets on either side of the car have 2 studs and one bolt in 
each side. Shims can be placed between the bracket and the top frame 
mounting foot that will cause the foot to tilt forward or back as needed. 
Yours need to tilt forward juat a bit which will miraculously completely 
change that closing gap across the windscreen and solve the problem. When 
fitting these shims be aware that it will also affect how the side pieces 
come together and fit over the windup window glass.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "George Haywood" <haywoodone at hotmail.com>
> I have a question now about the top.  We had an experienced upholstery 
> shop
> install a Robins Sunfast top.  It looks and fits very well, however there 
> is a
> space between the top seal and the center section of the windshield frame 
> of
> about 1/8" to 1/4" at the most.  The top sets down on the windshield posts 
> OK
> and is sealed going toward the center line of the windshield top frame for
> about 1.5 ft. on each side, then it begins to separate from the windshield
> along the centermost portion.  I placed a straight edge across the 
> windshield
> frame from post to post tonight and found it to be straight (flat).  Have 
> any
> of you had to deal with this before and how would you fix it? 

From rusd at sitestar.net  Tue Oct 16 08:42:54 2007
From: rusd at sitestar.net (Dave Russell)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 08:42:54 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] radiator over flow problem
In-Reply-To: <+ivOezCP3GFHFwKt@jharper.demon.co.uk>
References: <002d01c80f71$392c8840$82696546@VALUEDECECF7F4>
	<+ivOezCP3GFHFwKt@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Message-ID: <4714CDEE.6010402@sitestar.net>

Hi John,

I have found that drilling a 1/16" hole through the thermostat "valve" 
cures the no vent problem.

As others have said, there will be about 1/2 quart of expansion from 
cold to hot, so underfilling or using a coolant recovery tank are the 
only ways to handle this.

Dave Russell

John Harper wrote:

>Sam
>
>Is it possible that you fitted a type of thermostat without a venting 
>'jiggle pin'?
>
>I had this problem many years ago. What happens is that with the 
>thermostat fully closed and no way for a small amount of coolant to move 
>around the system and allow warm coolant to reach the thermostat bellows 
>the thermostat doesn't open.
>
>The coolant then boils inside the head. This cases back pressure and 
>forces coolant out of the radiator overflow. Eventually steam or hot 
>coolant will get to the bellows and they will open.. The system then 
>operates normally as you describe.
>
>I suggest that you have a look to see that you have the correct type of 
>thermostat fitted.
>
>Regards

From clocks at midcoast.com  Tue Oct 16 15:07:57 2007
From: clocks at midcoast.com (James Lea)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 17:07:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Help needed in Tampa.
Message-ID: <012b01c81038$a0934c40$0201a8c0@JIM>

Is there AHCA member in the Tampa area that would look at Triumph for me? I 
have most of the information I need and many pictures but there is nothing 
like seeing it in person to verify the condition. I also have a short list 
of the specific things I would like looked at. If the owner and I can get 
together on the price I would have it shipped to Maine. I know they say that 
buying a car blind is crazy but I have had very good luck in the past 
including my Healey and have found people in the LBC world to be honest and 
truthful. If you can help please contact me off list at clocks at midcoast.com. 
Thanks, JL

James Lea
PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632

1952 MG TD
1952 Triumph Mayflower
1958 Rover P4
1962 Austin Healey BT7 

From Warthodson at aol.com  Tue Oct 16 17:24:31 2007
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 19:24:31 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Test
Message-ID: <d05.1c91ed2d.3446a22f@aol.com>

************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From Warthodson at aol.com  Tue Oct 16 17:32:42 2007
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 19:32:42 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Bounces
Message-ID: <cc9.1e03c33c.3446a41a@aol.com>

I just received the following message:
 
"Your membership in the mailing list Healeys has been disabled due to
excessive bounces The last bounce received from you was dated
16-Oct-2007.  You will not get any more messages from this list until
you re-enable your membership.  You will receive 3 more reminders like
this before your membership in the list is deleted"
 
I haven't sent any messages to the mailing list on 16-Oct-2007, except this 
message & a test message, both after receiving this message. I recall someone 
else getting a bounce message recently. Any idea what is going on here?
Thanks,
Gary Hodson
 
 



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com  Tue Oct 16 18:13:11 2007
From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (Don Day)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 17:13:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BJ-8 Glove Box lock
Message-ID: <982534.61204.qm@web53804.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hello List
     I just received my new dashboard for my 67 BJ-8.from AH Spares.My question is how do I remove the glove box locking mechanisam from my old glove box door so I can put it in my new glove box door?I removed the plate from the back of the locking mechanism but the lock will not come out by the way the wood looks great.a little darker that origional but I guess they are all different color wood.
                              Don   BJ-8 under re-construction

       
---------------------------------
Looking for a deal? Find great prices on flights and hotels with Yahoo! FareChase.

From bluechipracing at snet.net  Tue Oct 16 18:49:09 2007
From: bluechipracing at snet.net (bluechip)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 20:49:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] RHD Healey 100
Message-ID: <005801c81057$87632500$1f9bfea9@dell>

Here's a question for the Brits and Aussies:   Are all the RHD Healey Hundreds
short of foot room between the brake pedal and the kick panel?  Maybe its just
my size13s but I have a hard time reaching the accellerator without scraping
the brake pedal.  Very annoying.

Jim Smith

From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au  Tue Oct 16 19:16:32 2007
From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 11:16:32 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] RHD Healey 100
In-Reply-To: <005801c81057$87632500$1f9bfea9@dell>
References: <005801c81057$87632500$1f9bfea9@dell>
Message-ID: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C70169EC6E@itfexch5.central.det.win>

G'day Jim

In my car the pedal arrangement is the same as the 100 except that the space
within the footwell is narrower to accommodate the six-cylinder engine and
gearbox. The narrower part is between the clutch and the engine bulkhead.

However the space between the brake and right hand bulkhead is the same as a
standard 100.

I wear size 8 = shoes and even with my relatively small feet I have to make
sure that I wear narrow shoes.

If you get a chance have a look at a pair of motor racing shoes and note how
narrow they are.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+patrick.quinn=det.nsw.edu.au at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+patrick.quinn=det.nsw.edu.au at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of bluechip
Sent: Wednesday, 17 October 2007 10:49 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] RHD Healey 100

Here's a question for the Brits and Aussies:   Are all the RHD Healey
Hundreds
short of foot room between the brake pedal and the kick panel?  Maybe its
just
my size13s but I have a hard time reaching the accellerator without scraping
the brake pedal.  Very annoying.

Jim Smith
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************

From bighealey at charter.net  Tue Oct 16 21:36:12 2007
From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 20:36:12 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] ALERT: MG Parts Stolen in Detroit!
Message-ID: <001f01c8106e$e1231980$1002a8c0@TRACY>

ALERT: MG Parts Stolen in Detroit!



One of an MG club's most dedicated members had one of his business in
Detroit broken into while he was away. They smashed down an access door,
then used his MGB to batter their way into the main plant and steal anything
copper, brass or aluminum.



What they got away with were some priceless parts. Gone were TD, TF, TC, TA
and SA radiators, all of the aluminum SU carbs and manifolds for the SA, the
MGB and 6000 lbs of aluminum. Many of these parts are irreplaceable,
especially the pre-war items.



Most likely they have been sold for scrap, but keep an eye out anyway. If
you see any of these items showing up in classifieds, on eBay or anywhere
else, please post a message.



Click the link below for more details or to report any possible leads:



http://www.socalbritishmotoring.com/viewtopic.php?t=342





Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !

President AHCUSA              www.healey.org

VP/Events Director GGAHC  www.goldengatehealeys.com

From wericars at aol.com  Tue Oct 16 23:19:40 2007
From: wericars at aol.com (wericars at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 01:19:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] ground wire behind dash
Message-ID: <8C9DE9473EE8D48-92C-559D@webmail-stg-d09.sysops.aol.com>

Hello list.? Does anyone know if any of the black ground wires coming out of the harness?behind the dash of a BJ8 should be secured to?the chassis?under the dash?? If so where?? It seems they all should just be attached to the mounting posts of the gauges, but i want to be sure as I see only one black wire that is grounded to the car near the voltage regulator.? Do all the black ground wires?behind the dash?connect to that one?wire?? Also, the wiring diagram shows an odd arrangement at the speedometer where the high beam light is supposed to be grounded to the speedometer panel light, but i don't see any place for a connection.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.


Bill
Boston area
65 BJ8

________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From wericars at aol.com  Tue Oct 16 23:24:07 2007
From: wericars at aol.com (wericars at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 01:24:07 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] door windows
Message-ID: <8C9DE9512EAFCCE-92C-55AB@webmail-stg-d09.sysops.aol.com>

Hello list.? I hope someone here knows the answer to this one.? My door windows need to be taken apart (again) to have the plastic clips replaced.? i notice that there is some sort of a rubber strip between the window glass and the metal frame.? Can any glass shop take the frames?apart from the windows, install the plastic glides and reassemble them with the correct rubber material?? Any recommendations for either a shop in Massachusetts or the right material to use?

Thanks


Bill
Boston area
65 BJ8

________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Tue Oct 16 23:50:29 2007
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Leonard  Hartnett)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 22:50:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] How Many Bytes?
In-Reply-To: <02a401c80fe2$20bb9910$0602a8c0@Lily>
References: <009a01c80fdd$db1d2ad0$91578070$@com>
	<02a401c80fe2$20bb9910$0602a8c0@Lily>
Message-ID: <F3A9B7A35EF2445F92ECFF373F5A6D3F@LeonardPC>

William and Eric, et al:  I am using Earthlink's Total Access program on my
Vista OS computer which has Windows Mail instead of Outlook or Outlook
Express.

Eric - The   "... <Ctrl>+<Caps>+<i>. .."  did not work.

William - The "... you can then highlight the email in the "Drafts" folder 
and select
> "Properties" from the "File" menu and it will tell you the size of the
> email..."  DID work - sort of.  It appears that it gives the size in even 
> KB increments, not bytes or decimal KB.

Thank you for the info, anyway.  I can always check and if it goes to 3KB, 
go back and start eliminating words until it shows 2 KB.  I should then be 
in the 2,xxx byte range.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville,  California,  USA
1967 3000 MKIII, HBJ8L39031.

From j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl  Wed Oct 17 00:22:20 2007
From: j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl (J.Aeckerlin)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 08:22:20 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Help needed in Tampa.
In-Reply-To: <012b01c81038$a0934c40$0201a8c0@JIM>
References: <012b01c81038$a0934c40$0201a8c0@JIM>
Message-ID: <4715AA1C.5080502@tiscali.nl>

James, I'm glad to be able to offer you my services. Autumn has arrived 
over here so it's damp and foggy and I would love to get a bit of real 
sunshine on my bald head. Just let me know the address and send me a 
return ticket and I'll fly away.
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands

James Lea schreef:
> Is there AHCA member in the Tampa area that would look at Triumph for me? I 
> have most of the information I need and many pictures but there is nothing 
> like seeing it in person to verify the condition. I also have a short list 
> of the specific things I would like looked at. If the owner and I can get 
> together on the price I would have it shipped to Maine. I know they say that 
> buying a car blind is crazy but I have had very good luck in the past 
> including my Healey and have found people in the LBC world to be honest and 
> truthful. If you can help please contact me off list at clocks at midcoast.com. 
> Thanks, JL
>
> James Lea
> PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
>
> 1952 MG TD
> 1952 Triumph Mayflower
> 1958 Rover P4
> 1962 Austin Healey BT7 
> _______________________________________________
> j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From WhoCares56 at aol.com  Wed Oct 17 00:38:48 2007
From: WhoCares56 at aol.com (WhoCares56 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 02:38:48 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Bounces
Message-ID: <d28.17068a65.344707f8@aol.com>

I also received a message that I would not receive any more  messages from 
the list due to excessive "bounces".  I have had no bounces.  What's going on?
 
Carroll



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl  Wed Oct 17 00:51:00 2007
From: j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl (Ph.J.Aeckerlin)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 08:51:00 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] early Friday funny
Message-ID: <4715B0D4.9050006@tiscali.nl>

Can't send any messages on Friday, so with my apologies for breaking the 
rules:

Five Germans in an Audi Quattro arrive at the Italian border. The 
Italian Customs Officer stops them and tells them "It's illegala to 
putta 5 people in a Quattro."
"Vot do you mean it's illegal?" asks the German driver.
"Quattro meansa four" replies the Italian official.
"Quattro is just ze name of zis fine automobile" the German says 
unbelievingly. "Look at ze car papers: ze car is designed to karry 5 
persons."
"You canta pulla thata on me!"replies the Italian officer. "Quattro 
meansa four. You have five-a people ina your car and you are thereforea 
breaking the law."
The German driver replies angrily "You idiot!. Call your zupervizor 
over. I vant to speak to somevun viz more intelligenze!"
"Sorry" responds the Italian officer. "He can'ta come. He'sa busy witha 
2 guys in a Fiat Uno."

-o-o-

A man escapes from a prison where's he's been locked up for 15 years. He 
breaks into a house to look for money. Inside, he finds a young couple 
in bed. He orders the guy out of the bed and ties him to a chair. While 
tying the woman to the bed the convict gets on top of her, kisses her 
neck, then gets up and goes into the bathroom.

While he's in there, the husband whispers over to his wife: "Listen, 
this guy is an escaped convict. Look at his clothes! He's probably spent 
a lot of time in jail and hasn't seen a woman in years. I saw how he 
kissed your neck. If he wants sex, don't resist, don't complain, just do 
whatever he tells you. Satisfy him no matter how much he nauseates you. 
This guy is obviously very dangerous. If he gets angry, he'll kill us 
both. Be strong, honey. I love you".

His wife responds: "He wasn't kissing my neck. He was whispering in my 
ear. He told me that he's gay, thinks you're cute, and asked if we had 
any Vaseline. I told him it was in the bathroom. Be strong honey. I love 
you".

Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Wed Oct 17 02:13:13 2007
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken))
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 10:13:13 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Bounces
In-Reply-To: <d28.17068a65.344707f8@aol.com>
References: <d28.17068a65.344707f8@aol.com>
Message-ID: <007001c81095$9043c0b0$b0cb4210$@com>

Gary and Carroll,

you won't see "your" bounces. A bounce is defined as a mail not going
through to the addressee (you) while some server returns a notification,
saying your mailbox was not reachable, to the addresser (team.net).

As the mail won't reach your mailbox and you won't be notified about it, you
won't notice a bounce caused by your mailbox or ISP.

Eric
http://brits-n-pieces.com



I also received a message that I would not receive any more  messages from 
the list due to excessive "bounces".  I have had no bounces.  What's going
on?
 
Carroll

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Wed Oct 17 04:25:55 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 06:25:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] door windows
Message-ID: <380-2200710317102555468@earthlink.net>

Do it yourself.  Pretty easy to do--but a PITA.  

tom  


> [Original Message]
> From: <wericars at aol.com>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 10/17/2007 1:24:30 AM
> Subject: [Healeys] door windows
>
> Hello list.? I hope someone here knows the answer to this one.? My door
windows need to be taken apart (again) to have the plastic clips replaced.?
i notice that there is some sort of a rubber strip between the window glass
and the metal frame.? Can any glass shop take the frames?apart from the
windows, install the plastic glides and reassemble them with the correct
rubber material?? Any recommendations for either a shop in Massachusetts or
the right material to use?
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Bill
> Boston area
> 65 BJ8
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! -
http://mail.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Wed Oct 17 04:29:20 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 06:29:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Bounces
Message-ID: <380-2200710317102920156@earthlink.net>

What;s going on?            AOL   


> [Original Message]
> From: <WhoCares56 at aol.com>
> To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 10/17/2007 2:39:11 AM
> Subject: [Healeys] Bounces
>
> I also received a message that I would not receive any more  messages
from 
> the list due to excessive "bounces".  I have had no bounces.  What's
going on?
>  
> Carroll
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at
http://www.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Wed Oct 17 05:03:08 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (sbyers at ec.rr.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 7:03:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] ground wire behind dash
Message-ID: <21281056.255211192618988647.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web20-z01>

Hi, Bill -
The black wires from the harness behind the dash all have ring terminals that are supposed to be secured to a post of each gauge.  Since the dash is wood and something of an insulator,  each gauge has to have its own ground wire.  Components like panel lights have only one (white/red) wire going into the back of the light for power.  These items pick up their ground from the metal gauge case, once the case itself is grounded with a black wire.
All black wires are ground, and theoretically all are connected together.  The cable from the battery establishes ground with the chassis, and the black wire under the voltage regulator connects all the other black wires to the chassis.

Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC

---- wericars at aol.com wrote: 
> Hello list.? Does anyone know if any of the black ground wires coming out of the harness?behind the dash of a BJ8 should be secured to?the chassis?under the dash?? If so where?? It seems they all should just be attached to the mounting posts of the gauges, but i want to be sure as I see only one black wire that is grounded to the car near the voltage regulator.? Do all the black ground wires?behind the dash?connect to that one?wire?? Also, the wiring diagram shows an odd arrangement at the speedometer where the high beam light is supposed to be grounded to the speedometer panel light, but i don't see any place for a connection.
> 
> Any thoughts would be appreciated.
> 
> 
> Bill
> Boston area
> 65 BJ8
> 
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> sbyers at ec.rr.com 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Wed Oct 17 05:12:16 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (sbyers at ec.rr.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 7:12:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] door windows
Message-ID: <28969626.255551192619536849.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web20-z01>

Bill, I'm getting ready to do this job on my car, too.  The rubber strips are "glazing strips", and any good glass shop should be able to provide this material and do the job for you.  Moss Motors sells the strips (part number 680-207), but I can't vouch yet for whether they are the proper thickness and quality.  I will be buying my strips from Moss.
The plastic guides are unique to Healeys, though and your glass shop may not be familiar with them.  You should provide the new ones and show them where they go unless the remains of yours are still there.

Cheers!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA



---- wericars at aol.com wrote: 
> Hello list.? I hope someone here knows the answer to this one.? My door windows need to be taken apart (again) to have the plastic clips replaced.? i notice that there is some sort of a rubber strip between the window glass and the metal frame.? Can any glass shop take the frames?apart from the windows, install the plastic glides and reassemble them with the correct rubber material?? Any recommendations for either a shop in Massachusetts or the right material to use?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Bill
> Boston area
> 65 BJ8
> 
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> sbyers at ec.rr.com 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Wed Oct 17 05:23:37 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (sbyers at ec.rr.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 7:23:37 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] door windows - correction
Message-ID: <24457834.255791192620217245.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web20-z01>

Sorry for the typo, but the correct Moss part number for the door glass glazing strips is 680-307.

--- sbyers at ec.rr.com wrote: 
> Bill, I'm getting ready to do this job on my car, too.  The rubber strips are "glazing strips", and any good glass shop should be able to provide this material and do the job for you.  Moss Motors sells the strips (part number 680-207), but I can't vouch yet for whether they are the proper thickness and quality.  I will be buying my strips from Moss.
> The plastic guides are unique to Healeys, though and your glass shop may not be familiar with them.  You should provide the new ones and show them where they go unless the remains of yours are still there.
> 
> Cheers!
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
> 
> 
> 
> ---- wericars at aol.com wrote: 
> > Hello list.? I hope someone here knows the answer to this one.? My door windows need to be taken apart (again) to have the plastic clips replaced.? i notice that there is some sort of a rubber strip between the window glass and the metal frame.? Can any glass shop take the frames?apart from the windows, install the plastic glides and reassemble them with the correct rubber material?? Any recommendations for either a shop in Massachusetts or the right material to use?
> > 
> > Thanks
> > 
> > 
> > Bill
> > Boston area
> > 65 BJ8
> > 
> > ________________________________________________________________________
> > Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > sbyers at ec.rr.com 
> > 
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> _______________________________________________
> sbyers at ec.rr.com 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Wed Oct 17 05:59:05 2007
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 07:59:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] door windows
In-Reply-To: <8C9DE9512EAFCCE-92C-55AB@webmail-stg-d09.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <20071017120053.A636B187AE0@autox.team.net>

The original material between the door window glass and the frame is called
"Everseal" it is uncured rubber which swells when exposed to engine oil.
Although Everseal is still available can still be used in my experience it
does tend to loosen up over the years. I now use glaziers black urethane
which looks the same and never comes loose.

Michael Salter
100S (1955)
3000 Mk111(1965)
100 (1953)
AHX12 (1953)
Bugeye (1961)
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of wericars at aol.com
Sent: October 17, 2007 1:24 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] door windows

Hello list.? I hope someone here knows the answer to this one.? My door
windows need to be taken apart (again) to have the plastic clips replaced.?
i notice that there is some sort of a rubber strip between the window glass
and the metal frame.? Can any glass shop take the frames?apart from the
windows, install the plastic glides and reassemble them with the correct
rubber material?? Any recommendations for either a shop in Massachusetts or
the right material to use?

Thanks


Bill
Boston area
65 BJ8

________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! -
http://mail.aol.com
_______________________________________________
msalter at precisionsportscar.com 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From bluechipracing at snet.net  Wed Oct 17 06:25:56 2007
From: bluechipracing at snet.net (bluechip)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 08:25:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] RHD Healey 100
References: <005801c81057$87632500$1f9bfea9@dell>
	<3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C70169EC6E@itfexch5.central.det.win>
Message-ID: <001801c810b8$de308dd0$1f9bfea9@dell>

Thanks, Patrick.  Maybe I'll spring for a pair of Moreschi 
Civates...Crocodile for the refined man.  Only $1195.00!   On second 
thought, I suppose $10.95 US Keds will do.

Thanks for the info.

Jim Smith
BN1
BN2
BN6
BN7

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
To: "bluechip" <bluechipracing at snet.net>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2007 9:16 PM
Subject: RE: [Healeys] RHD Healey 100


G'day Jim

In my car the pedal arrangement is the same as the 100 except that the space 
within the footwell is narrower to accommodate the six-cylinder engine and 
gearbox. The narrower part is between the clutch and the engine bulkhead.

However the space between the brake and right hand bulkhead is the same as a 
standard 100.

I wear size 8 = shoes and even with my relatively small feet I have to make 
sure that I wear narrow shoes.

If you get a chance have a look at a pair of motor racing shoes and note how 
narrow they are.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+patrick.quinn=det.nsw.edu.au at autox.team.net 
[mailto:healeys-bounces+patrick.quinn=det.nsw.edu.au at autox.team.net] On 
Behalf Of bluechip
Sent: Wednesday, 17 October 2007 10:49 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] RHD Healey 100

Here's a question for the Brits and Aussies:   Are all the RHD Healey 
Hundreds
short of foot room between the brake pedal and the kick panel?  Maybe its 
just
my size13s but I have a hard time reaching the accellerator without scraping
the brake pedal.  Very annoying.

Jim Smith
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
********************************************************************** 

From wericars at aol.com  Wed Oct 17 09:29:18 2007
From: wericars at aol.com (wericars at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 11:29:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] door windows
In-Reply-To: <200710170800.6d4715f962104@rly-xa04.mx.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8C9DEE99E11FAB0-240-2C98@webmail-stg-d05.sysops.aol.com>

Michael, is that an automotive product?? Where do you get it?


Bill
Boston area
65 BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
To: wericars at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 7:59 am
Subject: RE: [Healeys] door windows



The original material between the door window glass and the frame is called
"Everseal" it is uncured rubber which swells when exposed to engine oil.
Although Everseal is still available can still be used in my experience it
does tend to loosen up over the years. I now use glaziers black urethane
which looks the same and never comes loose.

Michael Salter
100S (1955)
3000 Mk111(1965)
100 (1953)
AHX12 (1953)
Bugeye (1961)
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of wericars at aol.com
Sent: October 17, 2007 1:24 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] door windows

Hello list.? I hope someone here knows the answer to this one.? My door
windows need to be taken apart (again) to have the plastic clips replaced.?
i notice that there is some sort of a rubber strip between the window glass
and the metal frame.? Can any glass shop take the frames?apart from the
windows, install the plastic glides and reassemble them with the correct
rubber material?? Any recommendations for either a shop in Massachusetts or
the right material to use?

Thanks


Bill
Boston area
65 BJ8

________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! -
http://mail.aol.com
_______________________________________________
msalter at precisionsportscar.com 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys





________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From wericars at aol.com  Wed Oct 17 09:32:18 2007
From: wericars at aol.com (wericars at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 11:32:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] ground wire behind dash
In-Reply-To: <8C9DE9473EE8D48-92C-559D@webmail-stg-d09.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8C9DE9473EE8D48-92C-559D@webmail-stg-d09.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8C9DEEA0967B872-240-2CD2@webmail-stg-d05.sysops.aol.com>

Hello list.? Does anyone know if any of the black ground wires coming out of the harness?behind the dash of a BJ8 should be secured to?the chassis?under the dash?? If so where?? It seems they all should just be attached to the mounting posts of the gauges, but i want to be sure as I see only one black wire that is grounded to the car near the voltage regulator.? Do all the black ground wires?behind the dash?connect to that one?wire?? Also, the wiring diagram shows an odd arrangement at the speedometer where the high beam light is supposed to be grounded to the speedometer panel light, but i don't see any place for a connection.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.


Bill
Boston area
65 BJ8




________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From bispmotala at hotmail.com  Wed Oct 17 09:53:53 2007
From: bispmotala at hotmail.com (bispmotala)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 17:53:53 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Help needed in Tampa.
In-Reply-To: <4715AA1C.5080502@tiscali.nl>
Message-ID: <BLU105-DAV173B11E16A541B19B29A10DD9D0@phx.gbl>

I agree with Jack and volunteer on the same conditions. Just putting winter
tyres on and expecting the first snow here in sort of southern Sweden.

Good luck to you all

Sven

-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
Fren: healeys-bounces+bispmotala=hotmail.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+bispmotala=hotmail.com at autox.team.net] Fvr
J.Aeckerlin
Skickat: den 17 oktober 2007 08:22
Till: James Lea; Healey forum
Dmne: Re: [Healeys] Help needed in Tampa.

James, I'm glad to be able to offer you my services. Autumn has arrived
over here so it's damp and foggy and I would love to get a bit of real
sunshine on my bald head. Just let me know the address and send me a
return ticket and I'll fly away.
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands

James Lea schreef:
> Is there AHCA member in the Tampa area that would look at Triumph for me?
I
> have most of the information I need and many pictures but there is nothing

> like seeing it in person to verify the condition. I also have a short list

> of the specific things I would like looked at. If the owner and I can get
> together on the price I would have it shipped to Maine. I know they say
that
> buying a car blind is crazy but I have had very good luck in the past
> including my Healey and have found people in the LBC world to be honest
and
> truthful. If you can help please contact me off list at
clocks at midcoast.com.
> Thanks, JL
>
> James Lea
> PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
>
> 1952 MG TD
> 1952 Triumph Mayflower
> 1958 Rover P4
> 1962 Austin Healey BT7
> _______________________________________________
> j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl

From m.brouillette at comcast.net  Wed Oct 17 10:53:06 2007
From: m.brouillette at comcast.net (m.brouillette at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 16:53:06 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Help needed in Tampa.
Message-ID: <101720071653.11871.47163DF10008F9D000002E5F22007374780A9B9B0A0404079A019D0DD203@comcast.net>

James,

          Take the weekend off and head down yourself.  Southwest Airlines out of Manchester NH would be $200 round trip.  

Mike B


 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "bispmotala" <bispmotala at hotmail.com>
> I agree with Jack and volunteer on the same conditions. Just putting winter
> tyres on and expecting the first snow here in sort of southern Sweden.
> 
> Good luck to you all
> 
> Sven
> 
> -----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
> Fren: healeys-bounces+bispmotala=hotmail.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+bispmotala=hotmail.com at autox.team.net] Fvr
> J.Aeckerlin
> Skickat: den 17 oktober 2007 08:22
> Till: James Lea; Healey forum
> Dmne: Re: [Healeys] Help needed in Tampa.
> 
> James, I'm glad to be able to offer you my services. Autumn has arrived
> over here so it's damp and foggy and I would love to get a bit of real
> sunshine on my bald head. Just let me know the address and send me a
> return ticket and I'll fly away.
> Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
> 
> James Lea schreef:
> > Is there AHCA member in the Tampa area that would look at Triumph for me?
> I
> > have most of the information I need and many pictures but there is nothing
> 
> > like seeing it in person to verify the condition. I also have a short list
> 
> > of the specific things I would like looked at. If the owner and I can get
> > together on the price I would have it shipped to Maine. I know they say
> that
> > buying a car blind is crazy but I have had very good luck in the past
> > including my Healey and have found people in the LBC world to be honest
> and
> > truthful. If you can help please contact me off list at
> clocks at midcoast.com.
> > Thanks, JL
> >
> > James Lea
> > PO Box 25
> > Rockport Maine 04856
> > 1-207-236-3632
> >
> > 1952 MG TD
> > 1952 Triumph Mayflower
> > 1958 Rover P4
> > 1962 Austin Healey BT7
> > _______________________________________________

From cfrazer at jcomm.uoregon.edu  Wed Oct 17 12:07:43 2007
From: cfrazer at jcomm.uoregon.edu (Charlie Frazer)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 11:07:43 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Paint
Message-ID: <b946a6fc69a80545bb466a6b8aff3095@jcomm.uoregon.edu>

I'm sure this question has been posted often in the past, but I can't 
find the answer.
Is the correct color "medium silver" for wire wheels readily available 
in a spray can?
What the color name and brand?
Thank you for your help.
Charlie Frazer

From wericars at aol.com  Wed Oct 17 12:19:12 2007
From: wericars at aol.com (wericars at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 14:19:12 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Trouble with the list?
Message-ID: <8C9DF015A08992B-F7C-44EA@webmail-stg-d04.sysops.aol.com>

I've only seen a couple of messages in the past two days.? And I am not seeing some of the messages I am sending.? Is there something wrong with the list?


Bill
Boston area
65 BJ8

________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

From mkgoodman at worldnet.att.net  Wed Oct 17 12:44:06 2007
From: mkgoodman at worldnet.att.net (Mark Goodman)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 14:44:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Early Friday Funny - Home Security Systems
Message-ID: <000001c810ed$b3191c40$194b54c0$@att.net>

>From JS: 

https://www.quickbase.com/up/bbhmatjqk/g/rei/eh/va/ADG%20Security%20061006d.
wmv

From geatros at shaw.ca  Wed Oct 17 12:52:05 2007
From: geatros at shaw.ca (geatros)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 11:52:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Paint
Message-ID: <000c01c810ee$d03eda20$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>

Hi Charlie

Maybe you should sandblast the wire wheels and have the wheels powder coated
silver gray. I'll be doing this to a set of wheels soon.

Cheers
Kenny

From geatros at shaw.ca  Wed Oct 17 12:59:56 2007
From: geatros at shaw.ca (geatros)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 11:59:56 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] wanted Healey or Westminster engine
Message-ID: <001001c810ef$e8a70ff0$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>

Still looking for Austin Westminster 6 cylinder engine.
Vancouver BC area.......Parts car with engine is OK.

Cheers
Kenny

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Wed Oct 17 13:01:32 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 14:01:32 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Paint
Message-ID: <17041562.389131192647692643.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web20-z02>

Moss makes a spray can product specifically for that purpose--I will leave it to others to pass judgement on the correctness of the color.

I have had very good luck using Rust-Oleum products on wire wheels--including their "rusty metal primer" older wheels that have had some considerable surface rust have had no further issues for years after using that stuff as primer.

I use Rust-Oleum "aluminum" as the top coat--it is too bright to be correct, but after I go through all that trouble I kind of like my wheels to have a little bit of shine to them.

Greg Lemon
54 BN1 

From rrengineer at dslextreme.com  Wed Oct 17 13:02:39 2007
From: rrengineer at dslextreme.com (rrengineer at dslextreme.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 12:02:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Paint
In-Reply-To: <000c01c810ee$d03eda20$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>
References: <000c01c810ee$d03eda20$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>
Message-ID: <14b8a37c2a33cca1c56a.20071017120239.eeratvarre@www.dslextreme.com>

     Moss and even Eastwood sell the correct color silver paint for your
wheels.  It is called a warm silver or "Argent Silver" paint.  In any
case it is advertised as the correct silver for your wheels.
     I painted my Bugeye wheels with the Moss paint which goes on
beautifully and it looked great.  The Moss paint flows very well and
seems to be a very high quality paint for being out of a spray can. 
They still look good after 7 years.  Powder coating is an option, but
it is expensive and you cannot touch it up like paint.  Get a little
scratch, just sand it smooth and paint it again.  My 2 cents.
Mike MacLean
56 BN2 (Chrome wires, sorry)
60 AN5

geatros
> Hi Charlie
>
> Maybe you should sandblast the wire wheels and have the wheels powder
> coated
> silver gray. I'll be doing this to a set of wheels soon.
>
> Cheers
> Kenny

From BJ8Healey at msn.com  Wed Oct 17 13:19:33 2007
From: BJ8Healey at msn.com (James Sailer)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 13:19:33 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] door windows
Message-ID: <BAY133-DS1B86B51289569C9EB1BBDE99D0@phx.gbl>

I have re-done my windows several ways (until finding a successful way) ..
including the MOSS glazing rubber which did not fit and did not work.  I went
to my local window shop and got wonderful stuff, which is the type of material
that swells with a petroleum product.  Mine have been in over a year now and
are still perfect.  Michael may have something here with the material he
references though.  As with anything cleaning everything and fitting and
adjusting the windows makes the job complete.  I took my metal window frames
apart (drilled out the pop rivets that hold the front and bottom frame pieces
together) and had them powder coated.  I re-rivitted them when I re-installed
the glass.  I paid a lot of attention to the window adjustment when I
installed them and they glide up and down with no effort.

Jim Sailer
66 BJ8

From JNBrashear at garverengineers.com  Wed Oct 17 13:23:47 2007
From: JNBrashear at garverengineers.com (Brashear, Jack, N)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 14:23:47 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Distributor Lube Thingy - DM6A
Message-ID: <2D0989D186D44349BE853EE6CFC87AE60364B784@glitas07.garverinc.local>

Please...someone help me out.  Zero response to my first posting of this
request.    PUHLEEZE.

Jack



________________________________

From: Brashear, Jack, N
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 8:28 AM
To: Healeys at Autox
Subject: Distributor Lube Thingy - DM6A



Hi All, I'm reassembling my DM6A dizzy but I'm confused about the
lubricator assembly.  It seems to have an inner spring under the
threaded cap and another spring that looks it's in mid-air inside the
distributor case.  What keeps that spring in place??  Is this really how
it goes together??  Does it rub against the drive spindle??  None of my
manuals gives me any information.  What's the grease recommendation??
Someone please help as I need to get the old girl ready for a local
show-n-shine in a few days.  As always, thanks to this great list.

Jack

From bstarke at telus.net  Wed Oct 17 13:40:17 2007
From: bstarke at telus.net (bstarke at telus.net)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 13:40:17 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] wanted Healey or Westminster engine
References: <001001c810ef$e8a70ff0$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>
Message-ID: <003801c810f5$8c20f060$4001a8c0@homeef0oqjjyyd>

I have 2 blocks which are from the Austin Westminster A105--they came with 
my Healey stuff 14 years ago and would be happy to donate them for the 
shipping costs alone.To be sure taht they are the correct ones, can anyone 
tell me the casting number for the block?
Thanks
Bruce Starke
Golden BC
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "geatros" <geatros at shaw.ca>
To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 12:59 PM
Subject: [Healeys] wanted Healey or Westminster engine


> Still looking for Austin Westminster 6 cylinder engine.
> Vancouver BC area.......Parts car with engine is OK.
>
> Cheers
> Kenny
> _______________________________________________

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Oct 17 13:59:25 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 14:59:25 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Paint
References: <000c01c810ee$d03eda20$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>
	<14b8a37c2a33cca1c56a.20071017120239.eeratvarre@www.dslextreme.com>
Message-ID: <03b701c810f8$3bafcd10$6601a8c0@actualshop>

<< "Argent Silver" paint. >>

It IS a Ford colour gents.

And Kenny...

<<sandblast the wire wheels and have the wheels powder coated
silver gray.>>

NOT a good idea and a waste of perfectly good dollars<G>!!

Spokes FLEX and and turn.  Cracks the P/C, which of course DEFEATS the
purpose.

I suppose one could completely dis-assemble a wheel and P/C all the parts
seperately.  Bit BOY what a PITA taping would be!!!

Ed

From rkorn at simnet.is  Wed Oct 17 14:34:50 2007
From: rkorn at simnet.is (Richard Korn)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 20:34:50 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Paint- new question
References: <000c01c810ee$d03eda20$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>
	<14b8a37c2a33cca1c56a.20071017120239.eeratvarre@www.dslextreme.com>
Message-ID: <004301c810fd$2a3e5ec0$4001a8c0@velad>

Is that the same paint I would use to re do  the brake drums??

Richard
BN2
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <rrengineer at dslextreme.com>
To: "geatros" <geatros at shaw.ca>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 7:02 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheel Paint


>     Moss and even Eastwood sell the correct color silver paint for your
> wheels.  It is called a warm silver or "Argent Silver" paint.  In any
> case it is advertised as the correct silver for your wheels.
>     I painted my Bugeye wheels with the Moss paint which goes on
> beautifully and it looked great.  The Moss paint flows very well and
> seems to be a very high quality paint for being out of a spray can. 
> They still look good after 7 years.  Powder coating is an option, but
> it is expensive and you cannot touch it up like paint.  Get a little
> scratch, just sand it smooth and paint it again.  My 2 cents.
> Mike MacLean
> 56 BN2 (Chrome wires, sorry)
> 60 AN5

From bluechipracing at snet.net  Wed Oct 17 15:02:41 2007
From: bluechipracing at snet.net (bluechip)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 17:02:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Distributor Lube Thingy - DM6A
References: <2D0989D186D44349BE853EE6CFC87AE60364B784@glitas07.garverinc.local>
Message-ID: <002801c81101$0f04ee40$1f9bfea9@dell>

Hi Jack:   I believe the large spring is just to keep the threaded cap from 
turning by itself.  Can't answer about the second spring.

I simply screw in the cap a turn or two once or twice a year.  When it 
bottoms out, I repack it with wheel bearing grease.

Jim Smith


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 3:23 PM
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Distributor Lube Thingy - DM6A


> Please...someone help me out.  Zero response to my first posting of this
> request.    PUHLEEZE.
>
> Jack
>
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: Brashear, Jack, N
> Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 8:28 AM
> To: Healeys at Autox
> Subject: Distributor Lube Thingy - DM6A
>
>
>
> Hi All, I'm reassembling my DM6A dizzy but I'm confused about the
> lubricator assembly.  It seems to have an inner spring under the
> threaded cap and another spring that looks it's in mid-air inside the
> distributor case.  What keeps that spring in place??  Is this really how
> it goes together??  Does it rub against the drive spindle??  None of my
> manuals gives me any information.  What's the grease recommendation??
> Someone please help as I need to get the old girl ready for a local
> show-n-shine in a few days.  As always, thanks to this great list.
>
> Jack
> _______________________________________________
> bluechipracing at snet.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

From bluechipracing at snet.net  Wed Oct 17 15:09:44 2007
From: bluechipracing at snet.net (bluechip)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 17:09:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Paint- new question
References: <000c01c810ee$d03eda20$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc><14b8a37c2a33cca1c56a.20071017120239.eeratvarre@www.dslextreme.com>
	<004301c810fd$2a3e5ec0$4001a8c0@velad>
Message-ID: <003501c81102$0ad70690$1f9bfea9@dell>

Hi Richard:  I think the answer is Yes, If you want them silver as they were 
originally.  Personally, I like the drums painted satin black.  I use 
barbecue paint on the racecar....they get way too hot for anything else. 
Just my personal preference.

Jim Smith

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Korn" <rkorn at simnet.is>
To: <rrengineer at dslextreme.com>; "geatros" <geatros at shaw.ca>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 4:34 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheel Paint- new question


> Is that the same paint I would use to re do  the brake drums??
>
> Richard
> BN2
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <rrengineer at dslextreme.com>
> To: "geatros" <geatros at shaw.ca>
> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 7:02 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheel Paint
>
>
>>     Moss and even Eastwood sell the correct color silver paint for your
>> wheels.  It is called a warm silver or "Argent Silver" paint.  In any
>> case it is advertised as the correct silver for your wheels.
>>     I painted my Bugeye wheels with the Moss paint which goes on
>> beautifully and it looked great.  The Moss paint flows very well and
>> seems to be a very high quality paint for being out of a spray can.
>> They still look good after 7 years.  Powder coating is an option, but
>> it is expensive and you cannot touch it up like paint.  Get a little
>> scratch, just sand it smooth and paint it again.  My 2 cents.
>> Mike MacLean
>> 56 BN2 (Chrome wires, sorry)
>> 60 AN5
> _______________________________________________
> bluechipracing at snet.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Wed Oct 17 16:12:52 2007
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 18:12:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Paint- new question
References: <000c01c810ee$d03eda20$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc><14b8a37c2a33cca1c56a.20071017120239.eeratvarre@www.dslextreme.com>
	<004301c810fd$2a3e5ec0$4001a8c0@velad>
Message-ID: <001501c8110a$dcb82560$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>

Well, you could use that but it wasn't the same paint used there originally. 
Just a hi temp dull silver on the drums will be fine.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Korn" <rkorn at simnet.is>
To: <rrengineer at dslextreme.com>; "geatros" <geatros at shaw.ca>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 4:34 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheel Paint- new question


> Is that the same paint I would use to re do  the brake drums??
>
> Richard
> BN2
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <rrengineer at dslextreme.com>
> To: "geatros" <geatros at shaw.ca>
> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 7:02 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheel Paint
>
>
>>     Moss and even Eastwood sell the correct color silver paint for your
>> wheels.  It is called a warm silver or "Argent Silver" paint.  In any
>> case it is advertised as the correct silver for your wheels.
>>     I painted my Bugeye wheels with the Moss paint which goes on
>> beautifully and it looked great.  The Moss paint flows very well and
>> seems to be a very high quality paint for being out of a spray can.
>> They still look good after 7 years.  Powder coating is an option, but
>> it is expensive and you cannot touch it up like paint.  Get a little
>> scratch, just sand it smooth and paint it again.  My 2 cents.
>> Mike MacLean
>> 56 BN2 (Chrome wires, sorry)
>> 60 AN5
> _______________________________________________
> richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From dan at warner-associates.com  Wed Oct 17 16:39:44 2007
From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 17:39:44 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Distributor Lube Thingy - DM6A
In-Reply-To: <2D0989D186D44349BE853EE6CFC87AE60364B784@glitas07.garverinc.local>
Message-ID: <002201c8110e$9d023100$3500000a@warner.com>

Jack:
Contact Jeff at Advanced Distributors and he will help you out.  I thought I
responded to this a few weeks back?  I CC Jeff for you.
Dan


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Brashear, Jack, N
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 2:24 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Distributor Lube Thingy - DM6A

Please...someone help me out.  Zero response to my first posting of this
request.    PUHLEEZE.

Jack



________________________________

From: Brashear, Jack, N
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 8:28 AM
To: Healeys at Autox
Subject: Distributor Lube Thingy - DM6A



Hi All, I'm reassembling my DM6A dizzy but I'm confused about the
lubricator assembly.  It seems to have an inner spring under the
threaded cap and another spring that looks it's in mid-air inside the
distributor case.  What keeps that spring in place??  Is this really how
it goes together??  Does it rub against the drive spindle??  None of my
manuals gives me any information.  What's the grease recommendation??
Someone please help as I need to get the old girl ready for a local
show-n-shine in a few days.  As always, thanks to this great list.

Jack
_______________________________________________
dan at warner-associates.com 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From rusd at sitestar.net  Wed Oct 17 16:40:30 2007
From: rusd at sitestar.net (Dave Russell)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 16:40:30 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Distributor Lube Thingy - DM6A
In-Reply-To: <002801c81101$0f04ee40$1f9bfea9@dell>
References: <2D0989D186D44349BE853EE6CFC87AE60364B784@glitas07.garverinc.local>
	<002801c81101$0f04ee40$1f9bfea9@dell>
Message-ID: <47168F5E.7070604@sitestar.net>

Jack,

I believe something is missing.
Between the small spring & the distributor shaft should be a small round 
felt wick. The spring pushes on the wick.

The grease/oil travels down this wick to the distributor shaft. The 
spring should NOT rub directly on the shaft, & the lube should not go 
directly to the shaft. The wick on yours may be missing.

I think heavy oil was originally recommended.

Dave Russell
BN2

bluechip wrote:

>Hi Jack:   I believe the large spring is just to keep the threaded cap from 
>turning by itself.  Can't answer about the second spring.
>
>I simply screw in the cap a turn or two once or twice a year.  When it 
>bottoms out, I repack it with wheel bearing grease.
>
>Jim Smith
>
>
>----- Original Message ----- 
>From: "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
>To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 3:23 PM
>Subject: [Healeys] FW: Distributor Lube Thingy - DM6A
>
>
>  
>
>>Please...someone help me out.  Zero response to my first posting of this
>>request.    PUHLEEZE.
>>
>>Jack
>>
>>
>>
>>________________________________
>>
>>From: Brashear, Jack, N
>>Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 8:28 AM
>>To: Healeys at Autox
>>Subject: Distributor Lube Thingy - DM6A
>>
>>
>>
>>Hi All, I'm reassembling my DM6A dizzy but I'm confused about the
>>lubricator assembly.  It seems to have an inner spring under the
>>threaded cap and another spring that looks it's in mid-air inside the
>>distributor case.  What keeps that spring in place??  Is this really how
>>it goes together??  Does it rub against the drive spindle??  None of my
>>manuals gives me any information.  What's the grease recommendation??
>>Someone please help as I need to get the old girl ready for a local
>>show-n-shine in a few days.  As always, thanks to this great list.
>>
>>Jack
>>_______________________________________________

From legal_bill at verizon.net  Wed Oct 17 17:26:32 2007
From: legal_bill at verizon.net (legal_bill at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 18:26:32 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Healeys] New name and ISP
Message-ID: <18993081.8956691192663593036.JavaMail.root@vms071.mailsrvcs.net>

Hello list.  I finally ditched aol.  (prior e-mail  address was wericars at aol)  I wasn't getting any messages, including my own.  I hope this switch gets rid of all the question marks that used to show up in my messages.  Anyway, I'll be asking plenty of questions under my new name.  thanks in advance for your patience.

Bill
Boston area
'65 BJ8

From legal_bill at verizon.net  Wed Oct 17 17:37:18 2007
From: legal_bill at verizon.net (legal_bill at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 18:37:18 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Wiring question
Message-ID: <29070985.8959871192664238759.JavaMail.root@vms071.mailsrvcs.net>

I asked this question twice on my aol screen name, so forgive me if you saw it and already responded.  I did not see your answer if you did.

I'm connecting the wires behind the dash and I am confused about the many ground wires.  It seems they all connect to the gauge posts to ground the gauge and complete the circuit for the dash lights.  But do any of the black wires behind the dash attach to a ground point on the chassis?  If so, where does it go?

Thanks.

Bill

From legal_bill at verizon.net  Wed Oct 17 17:42:48 2007
From: legal_bill at verizon.net (legal_bill at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 18:42:48 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Dash switch plate
Message-ID: <32799002.8961501192664568923.JavaMail.root@vms071.mailsrvcs.net>

I have the wrong switch plate for my dash.  Somehow I ended up withone for a right hand steering car.  I called Healey Surgeons to buy a new one, and Inan told me the inventory she has is of inferior quality.  She does not know when she will get good ones again.  Does anyone have a source for a good quality switch plate?

If anyone needs a switch plate for a RHD car, contact me off list.

Thanks.

Bill
Boston area
'65 BJ8
'02 S2000
'06 330i

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Wed Oct 17 18:44:46 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 20:44:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Dash switch plate
Message-ID: <380-220071041804446464@earthlink.net>

What is a switch plate?




> [Original Message]
> From: <legal_bill at verizon.net>
> To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 10/17/2007 7:43:11 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Dash switch plate
>
> I have the wrong switch plate for my dash.  Somehow I ended up withone
for a right hand steering car.  I called Healey Surgeons to buy a new one,
and Inan told me the inventory she has is of inferior quality.  She does
not know when she will get good ones again.  Does anyone have a source for
a good quality switch plate?
>
> If anyone needs a switch plate for a RHD car, contact me off list.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bill
> Boston area
> '65 BJ8
> '02 S2000
> '06 330i
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Wed Oct 17 19:05:17 2007
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 21:05:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Soft top question bj8
Message-ID: <BAY108-W38BE2A6074BCB8B355BB6AC89E0@phx.gbl>

Rich, I tried the shims to tilt the foot forward and it had no effect on the
gap that I could see.  I inserted enough shims even so that I couldn't get the
rear nut back on the stud.  I then bent down the front lip of the aluminum
piece that the seals attach to and the gap closed quite a bit but the lip of
the aluminum piece is now even with the anterior portion of the windshield
frame.  I am wondering now if the aluminum piece should be unscrewed and moved
forward about 1/4 inch to line up the P seal and the top seal and then
manipulate the front portion of the aluminum piece to fit on the face of the
windshield frame.  Is that clear to you?  I don't know what else to do with
this except put a strip of rubber under either the P seal or the top seal in
order to fill the gap. George> From: richchrysler at quickclic.net> To:
haywoodone at hotmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Soft
top question bj8> Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 09:46:44 -0400> > George,> > Due to
your description I understand exactly what your problem is and it's >
relatively easy to fix.> The mounting brackets on either side of the car have
2 studs and one bolt in > each side. Shims can be placed between the bracket
and the top frame > mounting foot that will cause the foot to tilt forward or
back as needed. > Yours need to tilt forward juat a bit which will
miraculously completely > change that closing gap across the windscreen and
solve the problem. When > fitting these shims be aware that it will also
affect how the side pieces > come together and fit over the windup window
glass.> > Rich Chrysler>
_________________________________________________________________
Boo! Scare away worms, viruses and so much more! Try Windows Live OneCare!
http://onecare.live.com/standard/en-us/purchase/trial.aspx?s_cid=wl_hotmailne
ws

From legal_bill at verizon.net  Wed Oct 17 19:34:04 2007
From: legal_bill at verizon.net (legal_bill at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 20:34:04 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Dash switch plate
Message-ID: <9541670.3726391192671245056.JavaMail.root@vms073.mailsrvcs.net>

The chrome plate located on the center section of a BJ8 dash under the heater controls that the electrical switches are mounted on.

From: Tom Felts <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
Date: 2007/10/17 Wed PM 07:44:46 CDT
To: "legal_bill at verizon.net" <legal_bill at verizon.net>, Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Dash switch plate

What is a switch plate?




> [Original Message]
> From: <legal_bill at verizon.net>
> To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 10/17/2007 7:43:11 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Dash switch plate
>
> I have the wrong switch plate for my dash.  Somehow I ended up withone
for a right hand steering car.  I called Healey Surgeons to buy a new one,
and Inan told me the inventory she has is of inferior quality.  She does
not know when she will get good ones again.  Does anyone have a source for
a good quality switch plate?
>
> If anyone needs a switch plate for a RHD car, contact me off list.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bill
> Boston area
> '65 BJ8
> '02 S2000
> '06 330i
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


Bill
Boston area
'65 BJ8
'02 S2000
'06 330i

From legal_bill at verizon.net  Wed Oct 17 20:44:21 2007
From: legal_bill at verizon.net (legal_bill at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 21:44:21 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Healeys] E-bay deja vu
Message-ID: <11760554.3743801192675461344.JavaMail.root@vms073.mailsrvcs.net>

I was looking through e-bay and saw this car that is hauntingly similar to my 65 when I bought it 12 years ago:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1966-Austin-Healey-3000-MK-III-BJ-8-Phase-II-NO-RESERVE_W0QQitemZ300159277842QQihZ020QQcategoryZ6023QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Mine had a bit more rust and needed a couple of outriggers, but as most here know, to do it right you havet to take apart every nut and bolt.  

I bought my project car for under $2000.  Who knows where the price on this one will end up.  I also wonder if the bidders have any idea how much it will cost and how much work it will take to complete this "straight forward" restoration.

Bill
Boston area
'65 BJ8
'02 S2000
'06 330i

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Oct 17 20:49:57 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 21:49:57 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] E-bay deja vu
References: <11760554.3743801192675461344.JavaMail.root@vms073.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <044401c81131$922d9670$6601a8c0@actualshop>

Interesting, Bill !!

<<I was looking through e-bay>>

That is the same town my '70 Camino came from!!!<G>

Ed

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Oct 17 21:08:27 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 22:08:27 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] New name and ISP
References: <18993081.8956691192663593036.JavaMail.root@vms071.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <056001c81134$278c3210$6601a8c0@actualshop>

<< I finally ditched aol.>>

CONGRATULATIONS, Bill !!  You will be VERY much happier<G>!!

Did you un-sub so that $5/mo charge stops??

Ed

From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com  Wed Oct 17 23:25:28 2007
From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F. Ronald Rader)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 22:25:28 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] i am back!
Message-ID: <5caeedb50710172225n3119be19u30dba6f4511787aa@mail.gmail.com>

hello folks.

i have been gone a while.

i am now looking for a 1953 or 1954 nash healey FHC and wondered if
anyone knows of one for sale? all help greatly appreciated.

ron rader

Playa del Rey CA

1965 BJ8
1967 E type FHC
1966 GT 350 H (under construction)
1956 Continental Coupe

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Thu Oct 18 06:12:04 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 08:12:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Dash switch plate
Message-ID: <380-220071041812124609@earthlink.net>

Thanks--never heard it called that--live and learn:)



> [Original Message]
> From: <legal_bill at verizon.net>
> To: Tom Felts <tomfelts at earthlink.net>; legal_bill at verizon.net
<legal_bill at verizon.net>; <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 10/17/2007 9:34:06 PM
> Subject: Re: RE: [Healeys] Dash switch plate
>
> The chrome plate located on the center section of a BJ8 dash under the
heater controls that the electrical switches are mounted on.
>
> From: Tom Felts <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
> Date: 2007/10/17 Wed PM 07:44:46 CDT
> To: "legal_bill at verizon.net" <legal_bill at verizon.net>,
Healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Dash switch plate
>
> What is a switch plate?
>
>
>
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: <legal_bill at verizon.net>
> > To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> > Date: 10/17/2007 7:43:11 PM
> > Subject: [Healeys] Dash switch plate
> >
> > I have the wrong switch plate for my dash.  Somehow I ended up withone
> for a right hand steering car.  I called Healey Surgeons to buy a new one,
> and Inan told me the inventory she has is of inferior quality.  She does
> not know when she will get good ones again.  Does anyone have a source for
> a good quality switch plate?
> >
> > If anyone needs a switch plate for a RHD car, contact me off list.
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Bill
> > Boston area
> > '65 BJ8
> > '02 S2000
> > '06 330i
> > _______________________________________________
> > tomfelts at earthlink.net 
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>
> Bill
> Boston area
> '65 BJ8
> '02 S2000
> '06 330i

From quenty at ntelos.net  Thu Oct 18 09:20:17 2007
From: quenty at ntelos.net (Dave Schweninger)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 11:20:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] New name and ISP
In-Reply-To: <18993081.8956691192663593036.JavaMail.root@vms071.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <18993081.8956691192663593036.JavaMail.root@vms071.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <604F0A6B-9F79-4C13-860D-A0201AA1357E@ntelos.net>

Somehow "Legal bill" has a familiar ring to it.

On Oct 17, 2007, at 7:26 PM, <legal_bill at verizon.net> wrote:

> Hello list.  I finally ditched aol.  (prior e-mail  address was  
> wericars at aol)  I wasn't getting any messages, including my own.  I  
> hope this switch gets rid of all the question marks that used to  
> show up in my messages.  Anyway, I'll be asking plenty of questions  
> under my new name.  thanks in advance for your patience.
>
> Bill
> Boston area
> '65 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> quenty at ntelos.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From legal_bill at verizon.net  Thu Oct 18 09:38:44 2007
From: legal_bill at verizon.net (legal_bill at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 10:38:44 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Healeys] New name and ISP
Message-ID: <15017164.315901192721924707.JavaMail.root@vms069.mailsrvcs.net>

I hope you don't get too many of them.  


From: Dave Schweninger <quenty at ntelos.net>
Date: 2007/10/18 Thu AM 10:20:17 CDT
To: legal_bill at verizon.net, Healeys at Autox <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] New name and ISP

Somehow "Legal bill" has a familiar ring to it.

On Oct 17, 2007, at 7:26 PM, <legal_bill at verizon.net> wrote:

> Hello list.  I finally ditched aol.  (prior e-mail  address was  
> wericars at aol)  I wasn't getting any messages, including my own.  I  
> hope this switch gets rid of all the question marks that used to  
> show up in my messages.  Anyway, I'll be asking plenty of questions  
> under my new name.  thanks in advance for your patience.
>
> Bill
> Boston area
> '65 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> quenty at ntelos.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


Bill
Boston area
'65 BJ8
'02 S2000
'06 330i

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Thu Oct 18 10:10:09 2007
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 17:10:09 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] FW: FW: Distributor Lube Thingy - DM6A (Resend. First one
 "bounced"!)
Message-ID: <001f01c811a1$5c1c1410$0200a8c0@simonalexa>

Jack,
Hi,
I'm not sure any of us completely understand the question.....
But, here goes....

Hi All, I'm reassembling my DM6A dizzy but I'm confused about the
lubricator assembly.
A:-Join the club!
Q:-It seems to have an inner spring under the threaded cap
A:-Yes, that's correct.
Q:-and another spring that looks it's in mid-air inside the distributor
case. 
A:-I can think of three springs inside:-
i) Two are part of the advance/retard mechanism which is located deep inside
the unit under the base plate and points assembly. I doubt you mean one of
them, but one might be loose for some reason.
ii) The other goes inside the distributor cap. It's bang in the middle
underneath the little carbon rod thingie which rubs/rests on the centre of
the rotor arm thereby passing the juice from the coil to the plugs. This
little spring can be a bit of a bugger to put back in. Twist the carbon into
one end and twist the other into the cap until it, hopefully locates.
Q:-What keeps that spring in place??
A:- See above.
Q:- Is this really how it goes together??
A:- Depends if I've addressed the right spring!
i) We'll ignore the advance/retard springs for the moment. 
ii) For the cap/carbon spring, see above.
iii) For the lubricator spring...the spring sits in the cap and is retained
there by the grease that's all over the inside of this mechanism. (It being
literally packed with the stuff). The springs butts up against a little
plate inside the housing which has a small hole in it's centre.
To use the lubricator assembly correctly (or do it my way!):-
1) Clean out all the old crud.
2) Fill the part that's integral with the distributor's body with grease.
3) Insert spring into cap and push spring into body, through the grease.
4) Wiping off the surplus, screw the cap onto the body and tighten it down a
turn or so. Don't want to force all the grease through the hole, but don't
want the cap to fall off?
5) Tighten the cap at appropriate service intervals. (To push more grease
through).
6) Refill as appropriate.
Q:-Does it rub against the drive spindle??  
A:- Absolutely not.
Q:- None of my manuals gives me any information.
They often seem to miss the little bit that one needs most. Sometimes an
oblique approach is best. In this instance the lubrication chapter in the
manual is helpful(ish). It never hurts to have the Parts Manual as that's
full of nice blow up diagrams.
Q:- What's the grease recommendation??
A:- Not sure that the manual is too helpful, but I use that foul black
lithium stuff which is good in high temperature areas.
Q:- Someone please help as I need to get the old girl ready for a local
show-n-shine in a few days. 
A:- Hope this helps. I took mine apart just now and checked appropriate
areas. Good luck/have fun at show.
 As always, thanks to this great list.

Simon

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Thu Oct 18 17:14:27 2007
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 16:14:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Distributor Lube Thingy - DM6A
In-Reply-To: <2D0989D186D44349BE853EE6CFC87AE60364B784@glitas07.garverinc.local>
Message-ID: <425643.23344.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Jack... l have written two TECH articles about
distributor lubrication and the lubricator   ... see
Austin Healey Magazine 2004 April and March 1993
 you will also find it in my Tech Talk book pages 47 &
238 ....          Norman Nock

    TECH TALK by  Norman Nock
  l have been writing technical articles 
for Healey clubs for over 20 years .
After numerous requests , l have
gathered them together, along with
some never before published
articles and had them spiral 
bound in book form
       $ 35.00 + $7.50 in USA


         259 pages

     Updated Annually

     British Car Specialists ( established 1957 )
    2060 N Wilson Way .. Stockton CA 95205
   Phone # (209) 948-8767
  FAX # (209)948-1030

www.britishcarspecialists.com 

        
            Tech Talk 2007 Update
This book now has 259 pages, and supplement pages are
now available to bring your issue up to date.  30
cents per numbered page with index plus $2 US shipping
. Norman Nock , British Car Specialists , Stockton CA.
(209) 948 - 8767 ,
  BritishCarSpecialists.Com

--- "Brashear, Jack, N"
<JNBrashear at garverengineers.com> wrote:

> Please...someone help me out.  Zero response to my
> first posting of this
> request.    PUHLEEZE.
> 
> Jack

From bn1 at pacbell.net  Thu Oct 18 18:01:20 2007
From: bn1 at pacbell.net (Mr. Bill)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 17:01:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] i am back!
In-Reply-To: <5caeedb50710172225n3119be19u30dba6f4511787aa@mail.gmail.com>
References: <5caeedb50710172225n3119be19u30dba6f4511787aa@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4717F3D0.6010003@pacbell.net>

You mean you were gone?!  <VBG>  Welcome back, Ron.

Bill Barnett
'53 BN1

(Who can't afford any thing else.) <another VBG>

F. Ronald Rader wrote:
> hello folks.
>
> i have been gone a while.
>
> i am now looking for a 1953 or 1954 nash healey FHC and wondered if
> anyone knows of one for sale? all help greatly appreciated.
>
> ron rader
>
> Playa del Rey CA
>
> 1965 BJ8
> 1967 E type FHC
> 1966 GT 350 H (under construction)
> 1956 Continental Coupe
> _______________________________________________
> bn1 at pacbell.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From rusd at sitestar.net  Thu Oct 18 18:21:58 2007
From: rusd at sitestar.net (Dave Russell)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 18:21:58 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Distributor Lube Thingy - DM6A
In-Reply-To: <425643.23344.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <425643.23344.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4717F8A6.3000108@sitestar.net>

Hi Norman,

I believe that Jack is talking about the grease/oil cup that is found on 
the side of the distributor & is used for shaft lubrication.  It is only 
found on the Healey DM6 distributors.

If you know the answer, why not just say it here. It gets tiresome 
having you answer a question with a sales pitch for your book. Few 
others on this list answer a question with only a sales pitch for their 
books.

Dave Russell

Norman Nock wrote:

>Jack... l have written two TECH articles about
>distributor lubrication and the lubricator   ... see
>Austin Healey Magazine 2004 April and March 1993
> you will also find it in my Tech Talk book pages 47 &
>238 ....          Norman Nock
>
>    TECH TALK by  Norman Nock
>  l have been writing technical articles 
>for Healey clubs for over 20 years .
>After numerous requests , l have
>gathered them together, along with
>some never before published
>articles and had them spiral 
>bound in book form
>       $ 35.00 + $7.50 in USA
>
>
>         259 pages
>
>     Updated Annually
>
>     British Car Specialists ( established 1957 )
>    2060 N Wilson Way .. Stockton CA 95205
>   Phone # (209) 948-8767
>  FAX # (209)948-1030
>
>www.britishcarspecialists.com 
>
>        
>            Tech Talk 2007 Update
>This book now has 259 pages, and supplement pages are
>now available to bring your issue up to date.  30
>cents per numbered page with index plus $2 US shipping
>. Norman Nock , British Car Specialists , Stockton CA.
>(209) 948 - 8767 ,
>  BritishCarSpecialists.Com
>
>--- "Brashear, Jack, N"
><JNBrashear at garverengineers.com> wrote:
>
>  
>
>>Please...someone help me out.  Zero response to my
>>first posting of this
>>request.    PUHLEEZE.
>>
>>Jack

From ecsaustralia at bigpond.com  Thu Oct 18 18:38:51 2007
From: ecsaustralia at bigpond.com (Bill Shipton)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 17:38:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Distributor Lube Thingy - DM6A
In-Reply-To: <4717F8A6.3000108@sitestar.net>
References: <425643.23344.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<4717F8A6.3000108@sitestar.net>
Message-ID: <4717FC9B.5060406@bigpond.com>

While we're at it:

First of all, thumbs up to Dave....

Secondly, Norman, if you are going to write on this forum in relation to 
your business, then please have the courtesy
to respond to email questions. I have written at least five emails to 
your company requesting a quote or
further information, not once I have had a reply - once I wrote directly 
to your sjnnock at sbcglobal.net email address
and it bounced back as undeliverable after a few days.

I'd have to say though that in general the Healey vendor community is 
guilty of this world-wide in regards to non-responses to emails.
Healey vendors that are reading this - please lift your game, it's not 
always possible to make a phone call to a distant vendor, that's
why we use email. If you have an email address, then that's the same as 
having a phone, you need to respond to it.

Cheers!



Dave Russell wrote:
> Hi Norman,
>
> I believe that Jack is talking about the grease/oil cup that is found on 
> the side of the distributor & is used for shaft lubrication.  It is only 
> found on the Healey DM6 distributors.
>
> If you know the answer, why not just say it here. It gets tiresome 
> having you answer a question with a sales pitch for your book. Few 
> others on this list answer a question with only a sales pitch for their 
> books.
>
> Dave Russell
>
> Norman Nock wrote:
>
>   
>> Jack... l have written two TECH articles about
>> distributor lubrication and the lubricator   ... see
>> Austin Healey Magazine 2004 April and March 1993
>> you will also find it in my Tech Talk book pages 47 &
>> 238 ....          Norman Nock
>>
>>    TECH TALK by  Norman Nock
>>  l have been writing technical articles 
>> for Healey clubs for over 20 years .
>> After numerous requests , l have
>> gathered them together, along with
>> some never before published
>> articles and had them spiral 
>> bound in book form
>>       $ 35.00 + $7.50 in USA
>>
>>
>>         259 pages
>>
>>     Updated Annually
>>
>>     British Car Specialists ( established 1957 )
>>    2060 N Wilson Way .. Stockton CA 95205
>>   Phone # (209) 948-8767
>>  FAX # (209)948-1030
>>
>> www.britishcarspecialists.com 
>>
>>        
>>            Tech Talk 2007 Update
>> This book now has 259 pages, and supplement pages are
>> now available to bring your issue up to date.  30
>> cents per numbered page with index plus $2 US shipping
>> . Norman Nock , British Car Specialists , Stockton CA.
>> (209) 948 - 8767 ,
>>  BritishCarSpecialists.Com
>>
>> --- "Brashear, Jack, N"
>> <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com> wrote:
>>
>>  
>>
>>     
>>> Please...someone help me out.  Zero response to my
>>> first posting of this
>>> request.    PUHLEEZE.
>>>
>>> Jack
>>>       
> _______________________________________________
> ecsaustralia at bigpond.com 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From jstmorris at yahoo.com  Thu Oct 18 19:34:56 2007
From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 21:34:56 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] British_Mtnce_videos_on_youtube
Message-ID: <173235.83309.qm@web30302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi all;  
   
  As a followup to some of the discussion at our local Thursday pub gathering in Simcoe, I mentioned that I would circulate a link to a series of helpful videos on "youtube"  While focused on the MG, much of the content is also applicable to other British cars.
   
  John Twist, the proprietor of University Motors Ltd. in Ada, Michigan, has posted dozens of helpful videos  40, at last count. Hell show you how to tune your SU carbs, how to replace and adjust your points, and lots more. You can see the whole lineup at   www.youtube.com/user/Universitymotorsltd.
   
  Enjoy!!
   
  --Scott Morris;  Simcoe, Ontario;  Austin Healey 3000-'60 MkI BN7,  '62 MkII BT7
     
   



J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
       
---------------------------------
Ask a question on any topic and get answers from real people. Go to Yahoo! Answers. 

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Thu Oct 18 21:12:25 2007
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 20:12:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Distributor Lube Thingy - DM6A
In-Reply-To: <4717F8A6.3000108@sitestar.net>
Message-ID: <572246.75171.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Dave Russell ... the Tech articles have been published
in 1,000's of Healey magazines all you have to do is
read it in the Austin Healey Magazines , you will find
drawings and pictures showing this lubriator and its
inside parts , a picture is worth a i.000 words ..
     
   Healey Marque Magazine April 2004 & March 1993

 l have to type this with a pen one word at a time at
home , l do it just because l like to ... TO put some
of my tech articles together takes many hours finding
parts , making drawings , and writing the articles ,
the only thing l get is satisfaction , my Tech Talk
book has been copied into many club news letters in
other countries , 
        Norman Nock 




--- Dave Russell <rusd at sitestar.net> wrote:

> Hi Norman,
> 
> I believe that Jack is talking about the grease/oil
> cup that is found on 
> the side of the distributor & is used for shaft
> lubrication.  It is only 
> found on the Healey DM6 distributors.
> 
> If you know the answer, why not just say it here. It
> gets tiresome 
> having you answer a question with a sales pitch for
> your book. Few 
> others on this list answer a question with only a
> sales pitch for their 
> books.
> 
> Dave Russell
> 
> 
> 
> >Jack... l have written two TECH articles about
> >distributor lubrication and the lubricator   ...
> see
> >Austin Healey Magazine 2004 April and March 1993
> > you will also find it in my Tech Talk book pages
> 47 &
> >238 ....          Norman Nock
> >
> >    TECH TALK by  Norman Nock
> >  l have been writing technical articles 
> >for Healey clubs for over 20 years .
> >After numerous requests , l have
> >gathered them together, along with
> >some never before published
> >articles and had them spiral 
> >bound in book form
> >       $ 35.00 + $7.50 in USA
> >
> >
> >         259 pages
> >
> >     Updated Annually
> >
> >     British Car Specialists ( established 1957 )
> >    2060 N Wilson Way .. Stockton CA 95205
> >   Phone # (209) 948-8767
> >  FAX # (209)948-1030
> >
> >www.britishcarspecialists.com 
> >
> >        
> >            Tech Talk 2007 Update
> >This book now has 259 pages, and supplement pages
> are
> >now available to bring your issue up to date.  30
> >cents per numbered page with index plus $2 US
> shipping
> >. Norman Nock , British Car Specialists , Stockton
> CA.
> >(209) 948 - 8767 ,
> >  BritishCarSpecialists.Com
> >
> >--- "Brashear, Jack, N"
> ><JNBrashear at garverengineers.com> wrote:
> >
> >  
> >
> >>Please...someone help me out.  Zero response to my
> >>first posting of this
> >>request.    PUHLEEZE.
> >>
> >>Jack

From ahbn6 at optonline.net  Thu Oct 18 21:53:08 2007
From: ahbn6 at optonline.net (John Sims)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 23:53:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Distributor Lube Thingy - DM6A
In-Reply-To: <572246.75171.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <4717F8A6.3000108@sitestar.net>
	<572246.75171.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <01d201c81203$8fb5b030$6500a8c0@simsoffice>

OK. Now tell us which of the magazines and which issue. I don't want to have
to go through my 15 years of magazines times two clubs at 10 issues per year
which equals 300 magazine issues to find the article I want to see. Why not
just tell us what the answer is.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com
 


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Norman Nock
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2007 11:12 PM
To: Dave Russell
Cc: Brashear, Jack, N; Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Distributor Lube Thingy - DM6A

Dave Russell ... the Tech articles have been published
in 1,000's of Healey magazines all you have to do is
read it in the Austin Healey Magazines , you will find
drawings and pictures showing this lubriator and its
inside parts , a picture is worth a i.000 words ..

   Healey Marque Magazine April 2004 & March 1993

 l have to type this with a pen one word at a time at
home , l do it just because l like to ... TO put some
of my tech articles together takes many hours finding
parts , making drawings , and writing the articles ,
the only thing l get is satisfaction , my Tech Talk
book has been copied into many club news letters in
other countries ,
        Norman Nock

From comkanuk at cgocable.ca  Thu Oct 18 21:56:32 2007
From: comkanuk at cgocable.ca (gilbert gauthier)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 23:56:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Marque Magazine April 2004 & March 1993
Message-ID: <B89BFB6D-3310-4249-BE6A-55B8FCC3A4D5@cgocable.ca>

JOHN READ HERE


  Healey Marque Magazine April 2004 & March 1993





Gilbert Gauthier
BT7
BN7

Quibec

From thomas3 at shaw.ca  Thu Oct 18 22:04:52 2007
From: thomas3 at shaw.ca (Rick Thomas)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 00:04:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 engine parts
Message-ID: <000301c81205$33f352a0$75306d18@RTHOMAS>

I am rebuilding a BJ8 engine and require a water pump and harmonic balancer 
. If anyone has one from a wrecked engine or surplus parts could you contact 
me please
thanks rick 

From tld6008 at mchsi.com  Fri Oct 19 10:44:12 2007
From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (tld6008 at mchsi.com)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 16:44:12 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Distributor Lube Thingy - DM6A
Message-ID: <101920071644.14474.4718DEDB000A93E10000388A219792676103010CD2079C080C03BFC8CFCFC00B049B@mchsi.com>

I've no dog in this hunt, but I do have Norman's Tech Article book and have been
to his shop, I went there just to see it during a trip to CA. He is a valuable
source of information from common to obscure and I recommend all that have or
want a Healey to get this rescource. Knowledge is power and in the Healey world
he is a powerhouse.
--
Tim Davis BN7


----------------------  Original Message:  ---------------------
From:    John Sims <ahbn6 at optonline.net>
To:      'Norman Nock' <sjnnock at sbcglobal.net>, 'Dave Russell' <rusd at sitestar.net>
Cc:      List' <healeys at autox.team.net>, "'Brashear, Jack,  N'" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>, 'Healey at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Distributor Lube Thingy - DM6A
Date:    Fri, 19 Oct 2007 03:53:21 +0000

> OK. Now tell us which of the magazines and which issue. I don't want to have
> to go through my 15 years of magazines times two clubs at 10 issues per year
> which equals 300 magazine issues to find the article I want to see. Why not
> just tell us what the answer is.
> 
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>  
> www.healey6.com
>  
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> Norman Nock
> Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2007 11:12 PM
> To: Dave Russell
> Cc: Brashear, Jack, N; Healey List
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Distributor Lube Thingy - DM6A
> 
> Dave Russell ... the Tech articles have been published
> in 1,000's of Healey magazines all you have to do is
> read it in the Austin Healey Magazines , you will find
> drawings and pictures showing this lubriator and its
> inside parts , a picture is worth a i.000 words ..
> 
>    Healey Marque Magazine April 2004 & March 1993
> 
>  l have to type this with a pen one word at a time at
> home , l do it just because l like to ... TO put some
> of my tech articles together takes many hours finding
> parts , making drawings , and writing the articles ,
> the only thing l get is satisfaction , my Tech Talk
> book has been copied into many club news letters in
> other countries ,
>         Norman Nock
> _______________________________________________
> tld6008 at mchsi.com 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From donham1 at cox.net  Fri Oct 19 10:48:15 2007
From: donham1 at cox.net (DHam)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 11:48:15 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Distributor Lube Thingy - DM6A
In-Reply-To: <101920071644.14474.4718DEDB000A93E10000388A219792676103010CD2079C080C03BFC8CFCFC00B049B@mchsi.com>
References: <101920071644.14474.4718DEDB000A93E10000388A219792676103010CD2079C080C03BFC8CFCFC00B049B@mchsi.com>
Message-ID: <427364F185804298ADA14899E702B8BC@homegduh2nmgi0>

I totally agree.
Don Hambrick BJ7
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <tld6008 at mchsi.com>
To: "John Sims" <ahbn6 at optonline.net>
Cc: <'Healey at autox.team.net>; "'Brashear, Jack,N'" 
<JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>; "List'" <healeys at autox.team.net>; "'Dave 
Russell'" <rusd at sitestar.net>
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2007 11:44 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Distributor Lube Thingy - DM6A


> I've no dog in this hunt, but I do have Norman's Tech Article book and 
> have been
> to his shop, I went there just to see it during a trip to CA. He is a 
> valuable
> source of information from common to obscure and I recommend all that have 
> or
> want a Healey to get this rescource. Knowledge is power and in the Healey 
> world
> he is a powerhouse.
> --
> Tim Davis BN7
>
>
> ----------------------  Original Message:  ---------------------
> From:    John Sims <ahbn6 at optonline.net>
> To:      'Norman Nock' <sjnnock at sbcglobal.net>, 'Dave Russell' 
> <rusd at sitestar.net>
> Cc:      List' <healeys at autox.team.net>, "'Brashear, Jack,  N'" 
> <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>, 'Healey at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Distributor Lube Thingy - DM6A
> Date:    Fri, 19 Oct 2007 03:53:21 +0000
>
>> OK. Now tell us which of the magazines and which issue. I don't want to 
>> have
>> to go through my 15 years of magazines times two clubs at 10 issues per 
>> year
>> which equals 300 magazine issues to find the article I want to see. Why 
>> not
>> just tell us what the answer is.
>>
>> John Sims, BN6
>> Aberdeen, NJ
>>
>> www.healey6.com
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
>> [mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
>> Norman Nock
>> Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2007 11:12 PM
>> To: Dave Russell
>> Cc: Brashear, Jack, N; Healey List
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Distributor Lube Thingy - DM6A
>>
>> Dave Russell ... the Tech articles have been published
>> in 1,000's of Healey magazines all you have to do is
>> read it in the Austin Healey Magazines , you will find
>> drawings and pictures showing this lubriator and its
>> inside parts , a picture is worth a i.000 words ..
>>
>>    Healey Marque Magazine April 2004 & March 1993
>>
>>  l have to type this with a pen one word at a time at
>> home , l do it just because l like to ... TO put some
>> of my tech articles together takes many hours finding
>> parts , making drawings , and writing the articles ,
>> the only thing l get is satisfaction , my Tech Talk
>> book has been copied into many club news letters in
>> other countries ,
>>         Norman Nock
>> _______________________________________________
>> tld6008 at mchsi.com
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> _______________________________________________
> donham1 at cox.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

From ahbn6 at optonline.net  Fri Oct 19 11:03:34 2007
From: ahbn6 at optonline.net (John Sims)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 13:03:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Distributor Lube Thingy - DM6A
In-Reply-To: <427364F185804298ADA14899E702B8BC@homegduh2nmgi0>
References: <101920071644.14474.4718DEDB000A93E10000388A219792676103010CD2079C080C03BFC8CFCFC00B049B@mchsi.com>
	<427364F185804298ADA14899E702B8BC@homegduh2nmgi0>
Message-ID: <01f601c81271$fc927440$6500a8c0@simsoffice>

I apologize to the list and Norman Nock. I totally misread his email and
skipped over his magazine issue references. I guess that the point that I
was trying to make was rather than refer to a magazine article, perhaps his
post could have given an explanation.

Over the years I have been vocal on the list that everyone should have his
Tech Tips book and have I defended his usual signature line promoting the
book. It is truly a "must have" to anyone's Healey library.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com
 


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
DHam
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2007 12:48 PM
To: tld6008 at mchsi.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Distributor Lube Thingy - DM6A

I totally agree.
Don Hambrick BJ7
----- Original Message -----
From: <tld6008 at mchsi.com>
To: "John Sims" <ahbn6 at optonline.net>
Cc: <'Healey at autox.team.net>; "'Brashear, Jack,N'"
<JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>; "List'" <healeys at autox.team.net>; "'Dave
Russell'" <rusd at sitestar.net>
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2007 11:44 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Distributor Lube Thingy - DM6A

From rthrift at cox.net  Fri Oct 19 11:26:54 2007
From: rthrift at cox.net (RThrift)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 10:26:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] British mtnce videos on youtube
In-Reply-To: <173235.83309.qm@web30302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <173235.83309.qm@web30302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20071019172544.FWUW22006.fed1rmmtao107.cox.net@fed1rmimpo02.cox.net>

   Thank you both!  Looks like a huge amount of useful info
   Richard Thrift
   San Diego
   At 09:34 PM 10/18/2007 -0400, J. Scott Morris wrote:

     ...While  focused on the MG, much of the content is also applicable
     to other British cars.

        John  Twist,  the  proprietor  of University Motors Ltd. in Ada,
     Michigan,  has posted dozens of helpful videos, ~40, at last count.
     He'll show you how to tune your SU carbs, how to replace and adjust
     your  points,  and  lots  more.  You  can  see  the whole lineup at
     www.youtube.com/user/Universitymotorsltd.

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Fri Oct 19 12:50:40 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 13:50:40 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] British mtnce videos on youtube
Message-ID: <19090437.429391192819840812.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web20-z02>

I will echo the comments about John Twist's videos on U-tube, I found these a couple months ago. For those of you that may be newer to the British car or Healey world, even though this is for MG the same or similar ancillary components (S.U. Carbs and Fuel Pumps, Lucas ignition and voltage regulator and electrics, Smiths instruments, Laycock DeNM O/D) were used on both lines of cars so it is good stuff., some great real world tips for tuning and troubleshooting you don't always see in the manuals. 

Greg Lemon 
54 BN1

From 57healey at gmail.com  Fri Oct 19 13:14:46 2007
From: 57healey at gmail.com (Patton Dickson)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 14:14:46 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] British mtnce videos on youtube
In-Reply-To: <19090437.429391192819840812.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web20-z02>
References: <19090437.429391192819840812.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web20-z02>
Message-ID: <743b1e2f0710191214h2a775af2q834cfcd67f7aeb6c@mail.gmail.com>

When I had the Sprite and the MGB, I always thought it would be great
to attend one of thier tech classes.  I have heard that it is a first
rate experience.

I'm glad they are sharing

Patton

On 10/19/07, glemon at neb.rr.com <glemon at neb.rr.com> wrote:
> I will echo the comments about John Twist's videos on U-tube, I found these a couple months ago. For those of you that may be newer to the British car or Healey world, even though this is for MG the same or similar ancillary components (S.U. Carbs and Fuel Pumps, Lucas ignition and voltage regulator and electrics, Smiths instruments, Laycock DeNM O/D) were used on both lines of cars so it is good stuff., some great real world tips for tuning and troubleshooting you don't always see in the manuals.

-- 
Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX
1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out."

From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Fri Oct 19 15:20:29 2007
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 17:20:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 distributor drive
Message-ID: <a06200702c33ecdcfc017@[192.168.0.100]>

Hi Folks, here's another silly question.
I have to remove my distributor spindle drive in preparation to pull 
out the cam, and I'm finding one item rather stubborn. I was 
expecting the piece of casting that is left after you take off the 
distributor,(about 3/8" thick, with 3 holes ) to come off rather more 
easily than it is. Is it not just a gasket between it and the block? 
I have tried some heat, but I don't want to force anything. The 
spindle won't pull out with this piece in place......what am I 
missing?

Stephen, BJ8

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Fri Oct 19 15:32:56 2007
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 17:32:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 distributor drive
In-Reply-To: <a06200702c33ecdcfc017@[192.168.0.100]>
Message-ID: <20071019213327.5377F1879CE@autox.team.net>

Stephen,
After you have removed the distributor clamp there is a 1/4 NF screw
recessed into the upper surface of the casting. Might pay to take that out
before you really damage something with your blue wrench!!!

Michael Salter
100S (1955)
3000 Mk111(1965)
100 (1953)
AHX12 (1953)
Bugeye (1961)
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Stephen Hutchings
Sent: October 19, 2007 5:20 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 distributor drive

Hi Folks, here's another silly question.
I have to remove my distributor spindle drive in preparation to pull 
out the cam, and I'm finding one item rather stubborn. I was 
expecting the piece of casting that is left after you take off the 
distributor,(about 3/8" thick, with 3 holes ) to come off rather more 
easily than it is. Is it not just a gasket between it and the block? 
I have tried some heat, but I don't want to force anything. The 
spindle won't pull out with this piece in place......what am I 
missing?

Stephen, BJ8

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Fri Oct 19 15:38:40 2007
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 17:38:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 distributor drive
References: <a06200702c33ecdcfc017@[192.168.0.100]>
Message-ID: <015e01c81298$6a350e10$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>

Stephen,

There are the two hex head carscrews that hold the distributor clamp plate 
to the spacer casting. Under that there is a single bolt with it's head set 
into a counterbore in the surface of the spacer. Unscrew and remove that as 
well and the spacer should pull straight out. The spacer is sleeved into the 
hole, but should come right out.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2007 5:20 PM
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 distributor drive


> Hi Folks, here's another silly question.
> I have to remove my distributor spindle drive in preparation to pull
> out the cam, and I'm finding one item rather stubborn. I was
> expecting the piece of casting that is left after you take off the
> distributor,(about 3/8" thick, with 3 holes ) to come off rather more
> easily than it is. Is it not just a gasket between it and the block?
> I have tried some heat, but I don't want to force anything. The
> spindle won't pull out with this piece in place......what am I
> missing?
>
> Stephen, BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From bluechipracing at snet.net  Fri Oct 19 15:51:42 2007
From: bluechipracing at snet.net (bluechip)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 17:51:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 distributor drive
References: <a06200702c33ecdcfc017@[192.168.0.100]>
	<015e01c81298$6a350e10$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>
Message-ID: <002801c8129a$3cd64cc0$1f9bfea9@dell>

I think its way cool when two of the most prolific and helpful listers 
(Michael and Rich) respond (and agree, btw) within 20 minutes, and four 
minutes apart.  Love this list!

Jim Smith



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>; "Stephen Hutchings" <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2007 5:38 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 distributor drive


> Stephen,
>
> There are the two hex head carscrews that hold the distributor clamp plate
> to the spacer casting. Under that there is a single bolt with it's head 
> set
> into a counterbore in the surface of the spacer. Unscrew and remove that 
> as
> well and the spacer should pull straight out. The spacer is sleeved into 
> the
> hole, but should come right out.
>
> Rich Chrysler
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Stephen Hutchings" <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, October 19, 2007 5:20 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 distributor drive
>
>
>> Hi Folks, here's another silly question.
>> I have to remove my distributor spindle drive in preparation to pull
>> out the cam, and I'm finding one item rather stubborn. I was
>> expecting the piece of casting that is left after you take off the
>> distributor,(about 3/8" thick, with 3 holes ) to come off rather more
>> easily than it is. Is it not just a gasket between it and the block?
>> I have tried some heat, but I don't want to force anything. The
>> spindle won't pull out with this piece in place......what am I
>> missing?
>>
>> Stephen, BJ8
>> _______________________________________________
>> richchrysler at quickclic.net
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> _______________________________________________
> bluechipracing at snet.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

From bluechipracing at snet.net  Fri Oct 19 15:51:42 2007
From: bluechipracing at snet.net (bluechip)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 17:51:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 distributor drive
References: <a06200702c33ecdcfc017@[192.168.0.100]>
	<015e01c81298$6a350e10$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>
Message-ID: <002901c8129a$418a37e0$1f9bfea9@dell>

I think its way cool when two of the most prolific and helpful listers 
(Michael and Rich) respond (and agree, btw) within 20 minutes, and four 
minutes apart.  Love this list!

Jim Smith



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>; "Stephen Hutchings" <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2007 5:38 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 distributor drive


> Stephen,
>
> There are the two hex head carscrews that hold the distributor clamp plate
> to the spacer casting. Under that there is a single bolt with it's head 
> set
> into a counterbore in the surface of the spacer. Unscrew and remove that 
> as
> well and the spacer should pull straight out. The spacer is sleeved into 
> the
> hole, but should come right out.
>
> Rich Chrysler
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Stephen Hutchings" <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, October 19, 2007 5:20 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 distributor drive
>
>
>> Hi Folks, here's another silly question.
>> I have to remove my distributor spindle drive in preparation to pull
>> out the cam, and I'm finding one item rather stubborn. I was
>> expecting the piece of casting that is left after you take off the
>> distributor,(about 3/8" thick, with 3 holes ) to come off rather more
>> easily than it is. Is it not just a gasket between it and the block?
>> I have tried some heat, but I don't want to force anything. The
>> spindle won't pull out with this piece in place......what am I
>> missing?
>>
>> Stephen, BJ8
>> _______________________________________________
>> richchrysler at quickclic.net
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> _______________________________________________
> bluechipracing at snet.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

From bluechipracing at snet.net  Fri Oct 19 15:51:42 2007
From: bluechipracing at snet.net (bluechip)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 17:51:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 distributor drive
References: <a06200702c33ecdcfc017@[192.168.0.100]>
	<015e01c81298$6a350e10$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>
Message-ID: <000801c8129a$68a0a080$1f9bfea9@dell>

I think its way cool when two of the most prolific and helpful listers 
(Michael and Rich) respond (and agree, btw) within 20 minutes, and four 
minutes apart.  Love this list!

Jim Smith



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>; "Stephen Hutchings" <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2007 5:38 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 distributor drive


> Stephen,
>
> There are the two hex head carscrews that hold the distributor clamp plate
> to the spacer casting. Under that there is a single bolt with it's head 
> set
> into a counterbore in the surface of the spacer. Unscrew and remove that 
> as
> well and the spacer should pull straight out. The spacer is sleeved into 
> the
> hole, but should come right out.
>
> Rich Chrysler
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Stephen Hutchings" <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, October 19, 2007 5:20 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 distributor drive
>
>
>> Hi Folks, here's another silly question.
>> I have to remove my distributor spindle drive in preparation to pull
>> out the cam, and I'm finding one item rather stubborn. I was
>> expecting the piece of casting that is left after you take off the
>> distributor,(about 3/8" thick, with 3 holes ) to come off rather more
>> easily than it is. Is it not just a gasket between it and the block?
>> I have tried some heat, but I don't want to force anything. The
>> spindle won't pull out with this piece in place......what am I
>> missing?
>>
>> Stephen, BJ8
>> _______________________________________________
>> richchrysler at quickclic.net
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> _______________________________________________
> bluechipracing at snet.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

From geatros at shaw.ca  Fri Oct 19 17:02:22 2007
From: geatros at shaw.ca (geatros)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 16:02:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] John Twist and University Motors
Message-ID: <001201c812a4$1b978330$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>

Hats off to John Twist and University Motors for sharing some experience and
wisdom. Maybe some Healey Shops should do the same........

Cheers
Kenny

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Fri Oct 19 18:01:41 2007
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Leonard  Hartnett)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 17:01:41 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 distributor drive
In-Reply-To: <000801c8129a$68a0a080$1f9bfea9@dell>
References: <a06200702c33ecdcfc017@[192.168.0.100]><015e01c81298$6a350e10$0271a8c0@tempj4fm7qmz2n>
	<000801c8129a$68a0a080$1f9bfea9@dell>
Message-ID: <B90ADA076F0A42719A692A255FBEBC2D@LeonardPC>

Jim:  I think its way cool when I get YOUR message THREE times, twice at 
2:52 PM and once at 2:53 PM.  <He - He!>  But that's OK.  Michael and Rich 
deserve all the thanks that we can give them.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville,  California,  USA
1967 3000 MKIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "bluechip" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2007 2:51 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 distributor drive


>I think its way cool when two of the most prolific and helpful listers
> (Michael and Rich) respond (and agree, btw) within 20 minutes, and four
> minutes apart.  Love this list!
>
> Jim Smith
/healeys 

From rthrift at cox.net  Fri Oct 19 17:57:16 2007
From: rthrift at cox.net (RThrift)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 16:57:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] John Twist and University Motors
In-Reply-To: <001201c812a4$1b978330$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>
References: <001201c812a4$1b978330$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>
Message-ID: <20071020000401.CXRI19862.fed1rmmtao104.cox.net@fed1rmimpo03.cox.net>

   Hi Kenny
   several  of  us have already thanked John Twist on this list, and cc'd
   him so he'd know.  Thanks for, uh, chiming in?
   I  don't know, I can only guess what you are referring to in your last
   remark  ("Maybe  some Healey Shops should do the same").  You might be
   more specific when you try to communicate.  I can only guess, based on
   recent blather on the list, that you may be referring to Norman & BCS.
   Note  I  have  never  had  any interaction with Norman except via this
   list, & have not purchased anything from BCS, other than their catalog
   (received just a few days ago  -and it is a VERY useful catalog.  I do
   plan to buy his book.  ...someday)
   If  that's  who  you  were referring to, your comment is uncalled for.
   Norman's  extensive and helpful tech articles have been available free
   to anyone with a subscription to Austin Healey Magazine.  Perhaps I am
   ignorant  about  your  contributions,  but what have you done of equal
   value to the Brit car community?
   If  you  meant  that  remark to be about someone else, I am not sure I
   care  to  know  who.   There is an excellent shop near me, and I don't
   mind  at  all  that the proprietor spends his time actually working on
   cars  (mine  & others, usually from local Brit clubs)  for pay instead
   of Emailing people he'll never meet.
   OK, let's return to the usual topics please
   Richard
   At 04:02 PM 10/19/2007 -0700, geatros wrote:

     Hats  off  to  John  Twist  and  University Motors for sharing some
     experience and
     wisdom. Maybe some Healey Shops should do the same........
     Cheers
     Kenny

From shop at justbrits.com  Fri Oct 19 18:51:37 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 19:51:37 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] John Twist and University Motors
References: <001201c812a4$1b978330$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>
Message-ID: <676b01c812b3$5f23b240$6601a8c0@actualshop>

<<Maybe some Healey Shops should do the same........>>

Kenny, I would be happy to do so BUT would do so on my own site if you'll buy
me any Video Camera you wish<G>!

I AM a one-man shop therefore the expenditure of a grand or so plus time
required to lay down a sound track so that it would be well heard just makes
NO sense to me.

There are a bunch of pics and slideshows I DO need to add to my site, just
need TIME.  Cars & orders get preference<VBG>!!

Also, as I told a Lister just a couple of hours ago:

<quote>
Unlike some other vendors, I follow The List Owner's Rules.
YOU may re-post if you so desire.

<<I have to remove my distributor spindle drive in preparation to pull
out the cam, >>

BEFORE you even try (after the 1/4" bolt is out) check in "Various Articles"
on my site www.justbrits.com  3/4s of the way down and on left for "My
Favorite Tool and most Expensive Tool".

It's use is MANDATORY for BOTH removal and installation of the spindel.

And don't forget me for Parts<G>!
</quote>

Regards...

Ed

PS:  And this post is actually somewhat "bending The Rules" but I feel it
needs to be said.

From geatros at shaw.ca  Fri Oct 19 20:22:49 2007
From: geatros at shaw.ca (geatros)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 19:22:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] John Twist and University Motots
Message-ID: <002301c812c0$1c4c6a90$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>

Looks like I hit a NERVE ..... I wasn't pointing fingers,
or trying to insult , or make you guys feel guilty. I  was just saying maybe
some Healey shops (if they had time) should do the same to help out fellow
Austin Healey lovers....... Boy, take a pill guys.

Cheers
Kenny

From healeyray at yahoo.com  Fri Oct 19 20:36:16 2007
From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 19:36:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] web address
Message-ID: <579837.3943.qm@web55208.mail.re4.yahoo.com>

Guys what's Larry Varley's web site address.  acmefluid.com  or something like that.
Thanks
Ray Juncal
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Fri Oct 19 20:53:09 2007
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (James  Shope)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 19:53:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] shake
Message-ID: <024d01c812c4$58ff8590$5201a8c0@Jim>

almost every healey in our club that has a problem with shake has the brake
drums out of balance.  one car shook so bad on the jack stands i was afraid it
was going to jump off the stands.  i took them to the local crankshaft
balancing shop here in vegas and the machinist made a special jig to balance
them by grinding off metal in the heavy spots.  i would think any good
machinist could do this at a balancing shop.  i also have used the bubble
balancing method but it is not quite as accurate as the machine shop.
healeymanjim

From geatros at shaw.ca  Fri Oct 19 21:02:36 2007
From: geatros at shaw.ca (geatros)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 20:02:36 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] John Twist and University Motors and Richard Who
Message-ID: <001a01c812c5$aae26480$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>

First off Richie,

How can you start accusing me, talking down to me and bad mouthing me on the
wolrd wide Healey List...Very shallow. Next time you don't like a comment suck
it up Richie ..........Its a free country . I love , I live Healeys, I"ve
owned over 20 over the years . I own 6 as we speak. I do all my own work , Its
nice to see other peoples tricks on video its very cool , very helpfull , life
is good..... I guess you hands are always clean and your nails are nice. Have
a nice life.

Regards
Kenny Geatros

From ahbn6 at optonline.net  Fri Oct 19 21:30:35 2007
From: ahbn6 at optonline.net (John Sims)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 23:30:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] web address
In-Reply-To: <579837.3943.qm@web55208.mail.re4.yahoo.com>
References: <579837.3943.qm@web55208.mail.re4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <021701c812c9$93fd0be0$6500a8c0@simsoffice>

http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/


John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com
 


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ray
Juncal
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2007 10:36 PM
To: List Healey
Subject: [Healeys] web address

Guys what's Larry Varley's web site address.  acmefluid.com  or something
like that.
Thanks
Ray Juncal
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
ahbn6 at optonline.net

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Fri Oct 19 21:36:54 2007
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (James  Shope)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 20:36:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] exhaust
Message-ID: <036a01c812ca$75c99ca0$5201a8c0@Jim>

have an exhaust system that came off bn6 that has two pipes exiting in front
of rear wheel.  has one huge heavy as hell muffler and the flex pipes have
solidified.  it looks solid and is heavy duty all the way.  if anyone wants it
before if throw it away, let me know and i will save it for you.
healeymanjim

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Fri Oct 19 21:49:52 2007
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 23:49:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Soft top
Message-ID: <BAY108-W5C84F70EE68F6094ED111C8980@phx.gbl>

Rich and Others,

I think I have got the soft top about as sealed as it can be.  I took Rich's
advice and placed shims under the rear of the foot of the top frame and this
seemed to move the top a little closer to the windshield frame.  The first
time I tried it I didn't notice much change.  Like everything else I've done
on this restoration things seem to work better after the second or third
attempts.  This however did change the relationship of the rear wood to the
front wood around the windows quite a bit.  Well between that maneuver and
then carefully bending the aluminum strip that screws to the header wood the
top seal was moved into position compressing on the windshield frame.  The P
molding in conjunction with the top seal prevented water from coming in when I
sprayed a good stream of water onto the windshield and top this afternoon.
When I hit it with a jet type stream of water then it leaked just to the right
of center.  I don't think I will be out in a driving rain at 70-80 MPH so
maybe we'll be OK and reasonably dry if we get caught in a down pour.

Thank you once again to Rich and other listers who helped with this,

George Haywood
'65 bj8 in the tweaking stage of restoration
_________________________________________________________________
Climb to the top of the charts!  Play Star Shuffle:  the word scramble
challenge with star power.
http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_oct

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Fri Oct 19 22:11:28 2007
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (James  Shope)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 21:11:28 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] factory numbers, etc.
Message-ID: <047401c812cf$49d47610$5201a8c0@Jim>

does anyone know for certain whether the factory ever painted the
engine/transmission/od a blue color, and if not, why would a restoration shop
do it?   healeymanjim

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Fri Oct 19 22:34:49 2007
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (James  Shope)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 21:34:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] water pumps
Message-ID: <04f801c812d2$8ce8d380$5201a8c0@Jim>

i had mine rebuilt about 10 years ago by a shop that rebuilt logging truck
water pumps, so i would think most truck rebuilders could do it.
healeymanjim

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Fri Oct 19 23:03:04 2007
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (James  Shope)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 22:03:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] custom duties
Message-ID: <058601c812d6$7f3c78f0$5201a8c0@Jim>

over ten years ago when i rebuilt my trans i sent the laygear to ahspares to
have a new gear put on.  for some reason it ended up in san diego and customs
wanted about 60 bucks or so duty on the whole laygear.  i fought with them
stating that it was my old laygear which had been repaired.  after much
haggling they finally shipped the part to me, but i still had an extra 10 buck
or so postage from san diego to vancouver, wa.  that cured me from buying from
the uk.   healeymanjim

From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com  Sat Oct 20 01:33:43 2007
From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F. Ronald Rader)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 00:33:43 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Nash Healeys books
Message-ID: <5caeedb50710200033l5f5e7f3fkc296faf7b00c67ee@mail.gmail.com>

does anyone know of one?

ron Rader
Los Angeles

1965 BK8

From varley at cosmos.net.au  Sat Oct 20 02:24:48 2007
From: varley at cosmos.net.au (Larry Varley)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 18:24:48 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] web address
In-Reply-To: <579837.3943.qm@web55208.mail.re4.yahoo.com>
References: <579837.3943.qm@web55208.mail.re4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4719BB50.4040301@cosmos.net.au>

Ray
It's www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
Hope you find what you are looking for
Cheers
Larry

Ray Juncal wrote:
> Guys what's Larry Varley's web site address.  acmefluid.com  or something like that.
> Thanks
> Ray Juncal
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
> http://mail.yahoo.com 
> _______________________________________________
> varley at cosmos.net.au 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From 57healey at gmail.com  Sat Oct 20 06:33:19 2007
From: 57healey at gmail.com (Patton Dickson)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 07:33:19 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] For Sale 1962 Austin Healey 3000 BJ7 Mark IIa - Plano, TX
Message-ID: <743b1e2f0710200533l4fb50a0fm5557b4d141a565de@mail.gmail.com>

This was advertized locally (Plano, TX), and I don't have the space
for more projects.  I have no financial interest, but told the owner
that I would post this for him.

I posted the pictures he sent me
http://57healey.spaces.live.com/photos/cns!73DC1343A8E8DA55!238/

-----------------------------------

1962 Austin Healey 3000 BJ7 Mark IIa (roll up windows).  V8 conversion
with Ford 9" rear-end ( no motor or tanny).  Has metal flared
fenders;lot of parts. . - $4,300.

Also have a 1961 Austin Healey MarkII with no body but complete drive
train (motor, tanny and rear-end); motor runs but frame is rusted.  I
have no time for tthis project at this time since I travel 75% of the
time.  Asking $7K for both

Contact David Maez <dfmabq at verizon.net>

-----------------------------------
-- 
Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX
1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out."

From dwhite4949 at wowway.com  Sat Oct 20 06:57:50 2007
From: dwhite4949 at wowway.com (Daniel and Diane White)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 08:57:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gear lever boot ring
Message-ID: <4719FB4E.1030701@wowway.com>

O.K. here's a question for you listers with a center shift gearbox.  My 
exploded view of the gearbox shows the chrome ferrule, "gear lever boot 
ring", on the underside of the rubber gear lever boot (Moss catalog).  
Logic (?) would dictate to me that the ferrule is on top and fits over 
the molded part of the boot that slides down over the base of the gear 
lever.  Question- has anyone successfully installed one of these chrome 
ferrules? I've lubed the boot, the gear lever, put the boot on the 
lever, tried to put the ferrule on the boot- no go.  To me it looks like 
the i.d. of the ferrule is too small for the o.d. of the boot portion 
that slides down over the gear lever.  I think my only recourse is to 
saw a slit in the ferrule on the back side.  I wonder if /some/ of the 
people that repro /some /of these parts ever try to put them on a 
Healey.  Any thoughts?
Dan White
1962 BN7 Mk II

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sat Oct 20 07:10:40 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 06:10:40 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Gear lever boot ring
In-Reply-To: <4719FB4E.1030701@wowway.com>
Message-ID: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKGEJEDGAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>

Hi, Dan -
I just did this job a few weeks ago using a new rubber boot and a new chrome
ring, both from Moss.  The neck of the rubber boot should fit inside the
ring with the boot off the car.  It's stiff, but you can stuff it in with
enough effort.  The tip of the neck of the boot has a flange, and all you
have to do is get this flange through the ring.
The neck of the boot with the chrome ring goes on the shift lever with the
chrome ring down.  I lubricated the shift lever with WD-40 before installing
the boot, and worked it down the shaft with my fingers until I could install
the outer lip of the boot onto the flange of the fiberglass tranny cover.

It has been a topic of discussion on the list before about why the ring is
chrome plated, since once installed it's invisible.  Nobody had a definite
answer, but possibly it was for corrosion protection.  Can't imagine it was
for trim purposes.

Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
Daniel and Diane White
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2007 5:58 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Gear lever boot ring


O.K. here's a question for you listers with a center shift gearbox.  My
exploded view of the gearbox shows the chrome ferrule, "gear lever boot
ring", on the underside of the rubber gear lever boot (Moss catalog).
Logic (?) would dictate to me that the ferrule is on top and fits over
the molded part of the boot that slides down over the base of the gear
lever.  Question- has anyone successfully installed one of these chrome
ferrules? I've lubed the boot, the gear lever, put the boot on the
lever, tried to put the ferrule on the boot- no go.  To me it looks like
the i.d. of the ferrule is too small for the o.d. of the boot portion
that slides down over the gear lever.  I think my only recourse is to
saw a slit in the ferrule on the back side.  I wonder if /some/ of the
people that repro /some /of these parts ever try to put them on a
Healey.  Any thoughts?
Dan White
1962 BN7 Mk II

From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Sat Oct 20 08:24:40 2007
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 10:24:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 distributor drive
Message-ID: <a06200702c33fbe177a53@[192.168.0.100]>

Thanks to all for the advice on the distributor spindle removal.
  Just for my own credibility, I feel I should mention that I had 
removed that recessed screw, and was surprised when I couldn't budge 
the thing with a long bolt threaded onto the bottom of the spindle. 
It seems as though those more experienced than I are surprised too. 
So, today I'll take another look, and see if I can make some progress.

Stephen, BJ8

From edwjkeuer at comcast.net  Sat Oct 20 08:54:37 2007
From: edwjkeuer at comcast.net (Edward Keuer)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 09:54:37 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Roll-up Mechanism
Message-ID: <12C9565C-13DB-4048-83ED-A179C750A2D2@comcast.net>

Hello everyone,

Thank you all for helping me with my situation of a "stuck" window  
regulator. I'd like to share briefly what I discovered. I removed all  
the components (handles, winder handle, leather panel, armrest) and  
then finally the regulator, after freeing the arm from the lower  
window channel. The regulator arm and gear wheel could not be freed  
and moved into the up position. It seemed as if the problem was  
within the riveted gear housing. No amount of soaking, cleaning  
mattered. So finally I and my brother in law drilled out the three  
rivets holding the housing cover. As soon as the rivets popped off,  
the large flat spring mounted on the outside "popped" or released its  
tension, firing the left arm into me at the speed of sound (or so it  
seemed)! Two painful lacerations on my hand right on the knuckles  
were the result.

I believe, but don't know for sure, that the spring was installed  
incorrectly (?) as the gears were apparently under such tremendous  
tension that it was impossible to crank them with the leverage  
provided by the winder handle. Some of you undoubtedly know for sure,  
but the spring seems to be installed with the bent portion over the  
uppermost portion of the metal "catch". Anyway after putting it all  
back together the window goes up and down smoothly enough but doesn't  
seem to hold its position well, i.e. it's easy to push down and even  
slips a bit with jarring (which might happen as I drive?!). Things  
still are not quite right, then.

Well, thanks to everyone as always for your submissions on this  
subject. I'm putting everything back on today Saturday and here in  
Chicago we are to have two beautiful autumn days with sun and temps  
in the upper 70's. Wishing you all such driving conditions!

God bless all Healey owners!
Edw. J. Keuer
Wheaton, IL
'66 BJ8

From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Sat Oct 20 08:58:20 2007
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 10:58:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Spindle's out!
Message-ID: <a06200703c33fc556ba91@[192.168.0.100]>

Just a follow up- once I was sure that this was probably a case of a 
tight fit, and "gentle" persuasion was required, I gave the casting a 
good smack with a brass drift and it began to rotate.
After lots of very tight rotating back and forth I got it to slowly 
come up out of the block, and withdrew the spindle.
I feel I should say that the list is invaluable for these moments of 
self doubt. From what I understood, there was nothing holding that 
casting in, but with the confirmation of more experienced listers , I 
felt better about giving it a wallop......(.with a softer metal, of 
course!)
There may be more silly questions to follow.

Stephen, BJ8

From moomau at verizon.net  Sat Oct 20 09:17:34 2007
From: moomau at verizon.net (GARY MOOMAU)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 08:17:34 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ-8 Clove Box Lock
Message-ID: <000401c8132c$60fef6f0$d3eb6e47@youro0kwkw9jwc>

Hello Healey Folks,

 

Does anyone out there know if the fellow from Germany (?) still makes BJ-8
Clove Box Locks?  I looked on e-bay (#130042444340) and I did not see it
listed any more.  Thanks in advance for any assistance.

 

Gary Moomau, '67 BJ8

Yucaipa, CA

From geatros at shaw.ca  Sat Oct 20 10:00:46 2007
From: geatros at shaw.ca (geatros)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 09:00:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  John Twist and University Motors
Message-ID: <000001c81332$86fd5120$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>

Sorry to bring this up again ....... I don't know if  Mr. Richard Thrift's
email to me made on the list . But this is what he sent me regarding my
comment (" Maybe some Healey Shops should do the same")  I meant no harm with
it .....  Nice way to talk to a fellow Healey Lover on the List .  What a nice
guy.........

Cheers
Kenny Geatros

---- Original Message -----
From: RThrift
To: geatros ; Healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2007 4:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] John Twist and University Motors


Hi Kenny
several of us have already thanked John Twist on this list, and cc'd him so
he'd know.  Thanks for, uh, chiming in?

I don't know, I can only guess what you are referring to in your last remark
("Maybe some Healey Shops should do the same").  You might be more specific
when you try to communicate.  I can only guess, based on recent blather on the
list, that you may be referring to Norman & BCS. Note I have never had any
interaction with Norman except via this list, & have not purchased anything
from BCS, other than their catalog (received just a few days ago  -and it is a
VERY useful catalog.  I do plan to buy his book.  ...someday)

If that's who you were referring to, your comment is uncalled for.  Norman's
extensive and helpful tech articles have been available free to anyone with a
subscription to Austin Healey Magazine.  Perhaps I am ignorant about your
contributions, but what have you done of equal value to the Brit car
community?

If you meant that remark to be about someone else, I am not sure I care to
know who.  There is an excellent shop near me, and I don't mind at all that
the proprietor spends his time actually working on cars (mine & others,
usually from local Brit clubs)  for pay instead of Emailing people he'll never
meet.

OK, let's return to the usual topics please

Richard


At 04:02 PM 10/19/2007 -0700, geatros wrote:

  Hats off to John Twist and University Motors for sharing some experience
and
  wisdom. Maybe some Healey Shops should do the same........

  Cheers
  Kenny

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sat Oct 20 10:10:46 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 11:10:46 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  John Twist and University Motors
References: <000001c81332$86fd5120$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>
Message-ID: <000e01c81333$c6670800$6401a8c0@toshibauser>

The e-mail made the list, I at least will take your comment in the spirit it 
was offered--"it would be nice if" not as a critcism or attack.

But I hope we can all agree with Mr. Thrift on his last comment

"OK, lets return to the usual topics please"

You know all that stuff we all agree on and no one gets worked up about :)

Greg Lemon
54 BN1 

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Sat Oct 20 13:39:05 2007
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 15:39:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] factory numbers, etc.
Message-ID: <BAY108-W2047DB545ADB4D79A1CFD7C8980@phx.gbl>

Jim,

I can say with reasonable certainty that the factory painted the engine,
tranny/OD, and generator with a color that had a blue hue to it.  It may have
been what was called green but it was quite blue as compared to the Moss cans
that we generally use on our restored engines, etc.  The car I purchased ('65
bj8) was an unmolested one owner car and the engine color was this bluish that
I am speaking of.  I switched to an alternator so my generator still has the
original color if anyone needs verification.

Take care,
George

> From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net> To: healeys at autox.team.net> Date: Fri, 19
Oct 2007 21:11:28 -0700> Subject: [Healeys] factory numbers, etc.> > does
anyone know for certain whether the factory ever painted the>
engine/transmission/od a blue color, and if not, why would a restoration shop>
do it? healeymanjim> _______________________________________________>
haywoodone at hotmail.com > > Healeys at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
_________________________________________________________________
Climb to the top of the charts!  Play Star Shuffle:  the word scramble
challenge with star power.
http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_oct

From loftusdesign at cox.net  Sat Oct 20 14:09:39 2007
From: loftusdesign at cox.net (John Loftus)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 13:09:39 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 roll-up mechanism
Message-ID: <471A6083.2020004@cox.net>

Edward,

I have 4 pictures and notes showing how I set the spring of the winder 
mechanism.

http://www.loftusdesign.net/restorationweb/windowregulator1.html

Hope that helps.

Cheers,
John

From jobu53 at hotmail.com  Sat Oct 20 16:04:29 2007
From: jobu53 at hotmail.com (Dan Serrao)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 15:04:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Hood Frame
Message-ID: <BAY101-W173D446B2245F0B38C3029DB980@phx.gbl>

Some time ago, someone stated what color the hood frame should be painted. I
think it was a Rustoleum color. Could that person please resend the
information? Thanks to all

Dan Serrao
1963 BJ7
_________________________________________________________________
Climb to the top of the charts!  Play Star Shuffle:  the word scramble
challenge with star power.
http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_oct

From dwhite4949 at wowway.com  Sat Oct 20 16:16:07 2007
From: dwhite4949 at wowway.com (Daniel and Diane White)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 18:16:07 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gear lever boot ring
Message-ID: <471A7E27.4020400@wowway.com>

Steve,
Thanks for the reply.  I did try to install it just the way you outlined 
and it just wouldn't slide down all the way. I've read the previous 
comments in the archives re the pesky little ring.  The Moment/Anderson 
book shows pictures of the rubber boot installed with the nipple (for 
lack of a better term) installed both ways-up and down.  On p.109  they 
state "On the center shift MkII's, the bellows of the rubber boot 
extended upward, with the center downward."   To me, it just looks right 
with the nipple on the top side with the chrome ring showing so that's 
how I'll install it (with a slit down the back to allow it to expand as 
it slides down the lever).  It's too bad that whoever makes these rings 
didn't do their homework and get the size right from the git go.  Thanks 
for letting me vent, I feel much better.
Dan White
1962 BN7 Mk II

From geatros at shaw.ca  Sat Oct 20 18:30:26 2007
From: geatros at shaw.ca (geatros)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 17:30:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Gear lever boot ring
Message-ID: <001f01c81379$937ef240$d1495118@usera31c75d1dc>

Hey Dan,

The  I.D. on a gear lever boot ring I have kicking around is 11/16 . I hope
this helps......

Cheers
Kenny

From scotyp at comcast.net  Sat Oct 20 18:42:55 2007
From: scotyp at comcast.net (scotyp at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 00:42:55 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] For Sale 1962 Austin Healey 3000 BJ7 Mark IIa - Plano, TX
Message-ID: <102120070042.19941.471AA08F0004EC6500004DE522007613949F979B010C9C@comcast.net>

I know it sounds weird, but check out the 4th photo from the end in the Healey garage photos. If you look carefully, the front left hand tire of that truck in the background appears to form the ghost of Donald himself in the driver's seat that blue over white BJ8!!

Scot
'66 BJ8

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Patton Dickson" <57healey at gmail.com> 

> This was advertized locally (Plano, TX), and I don't have the space 
> for more projects. I have no financial interest, but told the owner 
> that I would post this for him. 
> 
> I posted the pictures he sent me 
> http://57healey.spaces.live.com/photos/cns!73DC1343A8E8DA55!238/ 
> 
> ----------------------------------- 
> 
> 1962 Austin Healey 3000 BJ7 Mark IIa (roll up windows). V8 conversion 
> with Ford 9" rear-end ( no motor or tanny). Has metal flared 
> fenders;lot of parts. . - $4,300. 
> 
> Also have a 1961 Austin Healey MarkII with no body but complete drive 
> train (motor, tanny and rear-end); motor runs but frame is rusted. I 
> have no time for tthis project at this time since I travel 75% of the 
> time. Asking $7K for both 
> 
> Contact David Maez 
> 
> ----------------------------------- 
> -- 
> Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX 
> 1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out." 
> _______________________________________________ 
> scotyp at comcast.net 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Oct 20 19:13:19 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 09:13:19 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 roll-up mechanism
In-Reply-To: <471A6083.2020004@cox.net>
References: <471A6083.2020004@cox.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0710201813j10c3d2c0l95a9ef4eb94fac6c@mail.gmail.com>

John -

A quick question - can you flip the mechanism so it will work on either door?

Alan

On 10/21/07, John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net> wrote:
> Edward,
>
> I have 4 pictures and notes showing how I set the spring of the winder
> mechanism.
>
> http://www.loftusdesign.net/restorationweb/windowregulator1.html
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> Cheers,
> John
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Oct 20 19:19:30 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 09:19:30 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] factory numbers, etc.
In-Reply-To: <047401c812cf$49d47610$5201a8c0@Jim>
References: <047401c812cf$49d47610$5201a8c0@Jim>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0710201819x24ed885boef5c71dc690f5df2@mail.gmail.com>

James -

A few very early 100s had their engines painted a marine grey/blue
color, and if I'm not mistaken factory replacement "gold seal" engines
often were blue in color.

Alan

On 10/20/07, James  Shope <healeymanjim at hansencc.net> wrote:
> does anyone know for certain whether the factory ever painted the
> engine/transmission/od a blue color, and if not, why would a restoration shop
> do it?   healeymanjim

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Oct 20 19:23:26 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 09:23:26 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Gear lever boot ring
In-Reply-To: <471A7E27.4020400@wowway.com>
References: <471A7E27.4020400@wowway.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0710201823h4e49d31bgb1baa349b412954b@mail.gmail.com>

Dan -

Generally the rubber boot is installed nipple down because that's the
way they did it at the factory.

I like to install them nipple up because I think it looks much nicer
and the boot won't wear out nearly as fast with the nipple up.

You may not be able to install the ring because some after market
rubber boots the nipple neck is too thick.  My old rubber boot the
ring fit, when I replaced it the ring won't fit on the nipple no
matter what I do.  I suppose I could cut a slot in the nipple but then
the thing would probably wear out faster than normal if I did that.

Alan

On 10/21/07, Daniel and Diane White <dwhite4949 at wowway.com> wrote:
> Steve,
> Thanks for the reply.  I did try to install it just the way you outlined
> and it just wouldn't slide down all the way. I've read the previous
> comments in the archives re the pesky little ring.  The Moment/Anderson
> book shows pictures of the rubber boot installed with the nipple (for
> lack of a better term) installed both ways-up and down.  On p.109  they
> state "On the center shift MkII's, the bellows of the rubber boot
> extended upward, with the center downward."   To me, it just looks right
> with the nipple on the top side with the chrome ring showing so that's
> how I'll install it (with a slit down the back to allow it to expand as
> it slides down the lever).  It's too bad that whoever makes these rings
> didn't do their homework and get the size right from the git go.  Thanks
> for letting me vent, I feel much better.
> Dan White
> 1962 BN7 Mk II

From pennell at cox.net  Sat Oct 20 19:47:08 2007
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 21:47:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Hood Frame
In-Reply-To: <BAY101-W173D446B2245F0B38C3029DB980@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20071020214708.27HYU.53599.root@eastrmwml07.mgt.cox.net>

Dan,

Smoke gray is the color.  I believe it is by Rustoleum too.

Keith Pennell

> Some time ago, someone stated what color the hood frame should be painted. I
> think it was a Rustoleum color. Could that person please resend the
> information? Thanks to all
> 
> Dan Serrao
> 1963 BJ7
> _________________________________________________________________
> Climb to the top of the charts!  Play Star Shuffle:  the word scramble
> challenge with star power.
> http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_oct
> _______________________________________________
> pennell at cox.net 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From helyjohn at cablespeed.com  Sat Oct 20 20:57:44 2007
From: helyjohn at cablespeed.com (John Snyder)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 18:57:44 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Cam drive sprocket (gear)
Message-ID: <002f01c8138e$2b4a9110$f030eb42@FRED>

Here is a question that has me baffled.  I'm rebuilding one of the first 3000
engines.  HBN7L 605 chassis.  The camshaft drive sprocket has 6 keyways in it.
Each keyway is numbered 1 thru 6.  There are corresponding numbers on the
front of the sprocket near the teeth, w/ #1 at the big "dot" used for timing
the cam.  Comparing this sprocket to a later one with only one keyway, the #1
is located the same as the single keyway and big dot.

This engine was built by Hollywood Sports Car in the early 1960s, and the guy
who raced it says it dyno'ed at 206 HP.  I know that changing the cam timing
slightly can increase horsepower, but think that rotating the cam 60 degrees
(1/6 of the circumference) would not allow the engine to run.  Why does this
sprocket/gear have 6 keyways?

John Snyder
1959 BN7
1960 BT7
1961 BN7 MK2
1962 BT7 MK2

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Sat Oct 20 20:13:27 2007
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 22:13:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Cam drive sprocket (gear)
In-Reply-To: <002f01c8138e$2b4a9110$f030eb42@FRED>
Message-ID: <20071021021402.0C0CC187A0A@autox.team.net>

Hi John,
It is probably a little more complicated than that. I don't remember how
many teeth there are on the cam sprocket but you will probably find that
combinations of moving the cam to another keyway and then installing the
timing chain to move the timing back to as close as you can get to the
original spec will produce an increment of maybe 1 or 2 degrees.

Michael Salter
100S (1955)
3000 Mk111(1965)
100 (1953)
AHX12 (1953)
Bugeye (1961)
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of John Snyder
Sent: October 20, 2007 10:58 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Cam drive sprocket (gear)

Here is a question that has me baffled.  I'm rebuilding one of the first
3000
engines.  HBN7L 605 chassis.  The camshaft drive sprocket has 6 keyways in
it.
Each keyway is numbered 1 thru 6.  There are corresponding numbers on the
front of the sprocket near the teeth, w/ #1 at the big "dot" used for timing
the cam.  Comparing this sprocket to a later one with only one keyway, the
#1
is located the same as the single keyway and big dot.

This engine was built by Hollywood Sports Car in the early 1960s, and the
guy
who raced it says it dyno'ed at 206 HP.  I know that changing the cam timing
slightly can increase horsepower, but think that rotating the cam 60 degrees
(1/6 of the circumference) would not allow the engine to run.  Why does this
sprocket/gear have 6 keyways?

John Snyder
1959 BN7
1960 BT7
1961 BN7 MK2
1962 BT7 MK2

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Sat Oct 20 20:51:47 2007
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (James  Shope)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 19:51:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] o/d wiring
Message-ID: <004a01c8138d$52549310$5201a8c0@Jim>

bought a new od relay from sportand classic and found it is numbered different
than what it shows in manual.  this is the screw terminal type and it is
numbered right to left with W1, C2,C3, and W3.  i hooked the w/p wires to W1,
w/g to C2, whites to C3, and ground wire to W3.  book shows w/p to W2, w/g
toC2, whites to C1 and ground to W1.  before i hook the power wire to the fuse
block, can anyone tell me if this is incorrect and what is correct.  TIA,
hjim

From 63AHBJ7 at comcast.net  Sat Oct 20 21:19:39 2007
From: 63AHBJ7 at comcast.net (63AHBJ7)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 22:19:39 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] o/d wiring
References: <004a01c8138d$52549310$5201a8c0@Jim>
Message-ID: <00e101c81391$379e5c50$6601a8c0@actualshop>

Just curious, Jim...

<<sportand classic>>

NEVER heard of them and I have been around over 5 decades<G>!!??

Ed

From edmyed at harbornet.com  Sat Oct 20 22:24:39 2007
From: edmyed at harbornet.com (Richard Bittmann)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 21:24:39 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Gear lever boot ring
References: <471A7E27.4020400@wowway.com>
	<ff59076c0710201823h4e49d31bgb1baa349b412954b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001401c8139a$509bd3a0$6a1cbf83@richard7je7n03>

I put the ring on the boot neck with the neck down and then lubricate the 
inside of the neck and then force the neck with ring down on the gear shift 
lever.  Works like a charm.

Richard Bittmann
BJ7 Tacoma

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: "Daniel and Diane White" <dwhite4949 at wowway.com>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2007 6:23 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gear lever boot ring


> Dan -
>
> Generally the rubber boot is installed nipple down because that's the
> way they did it at the factory.
>
> I like to install them nipple up because I think it looks much nicer
> and the boot won't wear out nearly as fast with the nipple up.
>
> You may not be able to install the ring because some after market
> rubber boots the nipple neck is too thick.  My old rubber boot the
> ring fit, when I replaced it the ring won't fit on the nipple no
> matter what I do.  I suppose I could cut a slot in the nipple but then
> the thing would probably wear out faster than normal if I did that.
>
> Alan
>
> On 10/21/07, Daniel and Diane White <dwhite4949 at wowway.com> wrote:
>> Steve,
>> Thanks for the reply.  I did try to install it just the way you outlined
>> and it just wouldn't slide down all the way. I've read the previous
>> comments in the archives re the pesky little ring.  The Moment/Anderson
>> book shows pictures of the rubber boot installed with the nipple (for
>> lack of a better term) installed both ways-up and down.  On p.109  they
>> state "On the center shift MkII's, the bellows of the rubber boot
>> extended upward, with the center downward."   To me, it just looks right
>> with the nipple on the top side with the chrome ring showing so that's
>> how I'll install it (with a slit down the back to allow it to expand as
>> it slides down the lever).  It's too bad that whoever makes these rings
>> didn't do their homework and get the size right from the git go.  Thanks
>> for letting me vent, I feel much better.
>> Dan White
>> 1962 BN7 Mk II
> _______________________________________________
> edmyed at harbornet.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From Healeyguy at aol.com  Sat Oct 20 23:13:32 2007
From: Healeyguy at aol.com (Healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 01:13:32 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] o/d wiring
Message-ID: <c56.20929741.344c39fc@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/20/2007 5:20:34 PM Hawaiian Standard Time,  
63AHBJ7 at comcast.net writes:

Just  curious, Jim...

<<sportand classic>>

NEVER heard of  them and I have been around over 5  decades<G>!!??

Ed



Sports and Classics was in Darien Connecticut and a major supplier of  
British parts several decades ago.  The last catalog I have from them was  dated 
September 1984.Not sure of their current status. 
Aloha
Perry



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From bluechipracing at snet.net  Sun Oct 21 01:23:38 2007
From: bluechipracing at snet.net (bluechip)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 03:23:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Sports and Classics
References: <c56.20929741.344c39fc@aol.com>
Message-ID: <005301c813b3$4d13dc00$1f9bfea9@dell>

They are still in business and peddle lots of parts on ebay (512classics). 
I believe they moved from Darien, but are still in CT.

Jim


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Healeyguy at aol.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 1:13 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] o/d wiring


> In a message dated 10/20/2007 5:20:34 PM Hawaiian Standard Time,
> 63AHBJ7 at comcast.net writes:
>
> Just  curious, Jim...
>
> <<sportand classic>>
>
> NEVER heard of  them and I have been around over 5  decades<G>!!??
>
> Ed
>
>
>
> Sports and Classics was in Darien Connecticut and a major supplier of
> British parts several decades ago.  The last catalog I have from them was 
> dated
> September 1984.Not sure of their current status.
> Aloha
> Perry
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at 
> http://www.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> bluechipracing at snet.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

From caddi5 at comcast.net  Sun Oct 21 03:04:14 2007
From: caddi5 at comcast.net (caddi5 at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 09:04:14 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Fitting fenders,doors
Message-ID: <102120070904.5026.471B160E0000A674000013A22216554886CA070B0B0E0C@comcast.net>

Hello list,
What is the BEST procedure to follow when fitting original fenders that are not original to the car (1959 bn4) ? Do I fit the fenders to the doors, is there a way to make sure the doors are fitted properly? I am alittle lost on where to begin... any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
MS
BN4

From rkorn at simnet.is  Sun Oct 21 04:33:51 2007
From: rkorn at simnet.is (Richard Korn)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 10:33:51 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Happy 55th
Message-ID: <000801c813cd$df562f90$4001a8c0@velad>

Wishing everyone a happy birthday on the premiere of our favorite marque on
this day 55 years ago at Earls Court.  A wonderful story that has changed and
enhanced so many of our lives.

My very best regards to all of you and those I have had the pleasure to meet
since becoming a Healey owner.

Richard Korn

56BN2

From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk  Sun Oct 21 04:55:28 2007
From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 11:55:28 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] factory numbers, etc.
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0710201819x24ed885boef5c71dc690f5df2@mail.gmail.com>
References: <047401c812cf$49d47610$5201a8c0@Jim>
	<ff59076c0710201819x24ed885boef5c71dc690f5df2@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <W$2CiECgAzGHFwmI@jharper.demon.co.uk>

Alan

I was based at BMC Service Cowley for a while in the early 1960s and can 
be 99.9% certain that Gold Seal Engines were exactly that. To have not 
painted them gold would have caused utter confusion.

Regards

>James -
>
>A few very early 100s had their engines painted a marine grey/blue
>color, and if I'm not mistaken factory replacement "gold seal" engines
>often were blue in color.
>
>Alan
>
>On 10/20/07, James  Shope <healeymanjim at hansencc.net> wrote:
>> does anyone know for certain whether the factory ever painted the
>> engine/transmission/od a blue color, and if not, why would a restoration shop
>> do it?   healeymanjim
>_______________________________________________
>ah at jharper.demon.co.uk
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

-- 
John Harper

From Waschu2 at charter.net  Sun Oct 21 06:09:43 2007
From: Waschu2 at charter.net (Wayne)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 08:09:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Sports and Classics
Message-ID: <471B4187.5030402@charter.net>

Sports and Classics has moved to a larger building in Stamford CT. Their 
address is 1069 East Main Street, Stamford, CT.  The phone number is 
203-348-2226. I was just there the other day getting parts for my Healey.

                               Wayne

From bj7healey at gto.net  Sun Oct 21 06:19:36 2007
From: bj7healey at gto.net (Bob Slater)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 08:19:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] o/d wiring
References: <c56.20929741.344c39fc@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000b01c813dc$a758b2c0$6400a8c0@acer684c9a655d>

Sports & Classics is still there and the Muffler I talked about on the list 
which they replaced for free including shipping arrived on Friday.
       Now I have to get to work and change it.
            Here are their details I would recommend them as to excellent 
sevice.

    Sports & Classics, Inc.
512 Boston Post Road
Darien, Connecticut, USA Telephone: (203) 655-8731 Fax: (203) 656-1896

Web site  ( New Under construction )   http://sportsandclassics.com/

                   Bob Slater    BJ7

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Healeyguy at aol.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 1:13 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] o/d wiring


> In a message dated 10/20/2007 5:20:34 PM Hawaiian Standard Time,
> 63AHBJ7 at comcast.net writes:
>
> Just  curious, Jim...
>
> <<sportand classic>>
>
> NEVER heard of  them and I have been around over 5  decades<G>!!??
>
> Ed
>
>
>
> Sports and Classics was in Darien Connecticut and a major supplier of
> British parts several decades ago.  The last catalog I have from them was 
> dated
> September 1984.Not sure of their current status.
> Aloha
> Perry
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at 
> http://www.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> bj7healey at gto.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.3/1081 - Release Date: 
> 10/19/2007 5:41 PM

From dwhite4949 at wowway.com  Sun Oct 21 06:28:08 2007
From: dwhite4949 at wowway.com (Daniel and Diane White)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 08:28:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gear lever boot ring
Message-ID: <471B45D8.3070707@wowway.com>

Thanks to all for the advice on this issue.  I'll compare the i.d. and 
see if it's 11/16".  A light came on in my pea brain when Alan mentioned 
that the nipple neck may be too thick to accommodate the ring.  Here I'm 
trashing the people that make the ring and maybe I should be trashing 
the people that make the boot?  Or both?   When I first tried to  
install it I put the ring on the neck of the boot then lubed the gear 
lever as well as the inside of the neck then started to push the whole 
affair down the lever.  I got it 3/4 down and then it wouldn't move any 
further down or up.  I had to destroy the ring to get the whole thing 
off.  Fortunately I had the nipple side up or I might have had to 
destroy the boot too.  When I mentioned putting a slit in "it", I meant 
the backside of the ring.  I agree- to slit the boot neck would  invite 
future tearing.  I'd like to turn back the clock and make a strong 
argument in front of Donald and Geoff that the boot should be installed 
nipple side up, then the three of us would go to the pub for a diet soda.
Cheers,
Dan White
1962 BN7 Mk II

From hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk  Sun Oct 21 06:28:49 2007
From: hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk (mike brooks)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 05:28:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
Message-ID: <954583.31658.qm@web34207.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Jim that should be fine. Neither the coil (W terminals) nor the contact (C
terminals) are polarity sensitive so you can treat the W terminals as if they
were W1,2 either way round. Same for the C terminals

However, just to be
absolutely sure, I would disconnect all wires at the relay box and check with
an ohmeter that neither of the W terminals are connected to the case of the
relay. I don't think it should be, but if one of the W's is connected to the
case of the relay, then you need to treat this one as W2 on the diagram, since
W2 is grounded the way the circuit is wired.

Rgds

Mike  Brooks

Message: 13
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 19:51:47 -0700
From: "James  Shope"
<healeymanjim at hansencc.net>
Subject: [Healeys] o/d wiring
To: "healeys"
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <004a01c8138d$52549310$5201a8c0 at Jim>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

bought a new od relay from
sportand classic and found it is numbered different
than what it shows in
manual.  this is the screw terminal type and it is
numbered right to left with
W1, C2,C3, and W3.  i hooked the w/p wires to W1,
w/g to C2, whites to C3, and
ground wire to W3.  book shows w/p to W2, w/g
toC2, whites to C1 and ground to
W1.  before i hook the power wire to the fuse
block, can anyone tell me if
this is incorrect and what is correct.   TIA,
hjim

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Sun Oct 21 06:35:19 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 08:35:19 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] For Sale 1962 Austin Healey 3000 BJ7 Mark IIa - Plano, TX
Message-ID: <380-2200710021123519921@earthlink.net>

Is this kinda like seeing the face of the virgin Mary on a piece of french
toast?:)  


> [Original Message]
> From: <scotyp at comcast.net>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net (healey list)>; Patton Dickson
<57healey at gmail.com>
> Date: 10/20/2007 8:42:56 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] For Sale 1962 Austin Healey 3000 BJ7 Mark IIa -
Plano, TX
>
> I know it sounds weird, but check out the 4th photo from the end in the
Healey garage photos. If you look carefully, the front left hand tire of
that truck in the background appears to form the ghost of Donald himself in
the driver's seat that blue over white BJ8!!
>
> Scot
> '66 BJ8
>
> -------------- Original message -------------- 
> From: "Patton Dickson" <57healey at gmail.com> 
>
> > This was advertized locally (Plano, TX), and I don't have the space 
> > for more projects. I have no financial interest, but told the owner 
> > that I would post this for him. 
> > 
> > I posted the pictures he sent me 
> > http://57healey.spaces.live.com/photos/cns!73DC1343A8E8DA55!238/ 
> > 
> > ----------------------------------- 
> > 
> > 1962 Austin Healey 3000 BJ7 Mark IIa (roll up windows). V8 conversion 
> > with Ford 9" rear-end ( no motor or tanny). Has metal flared 
> > fenders;lot of parts. . - $4,300. 
> > 
> > Also have a 1961 Austin Healey MarkII with no body but complete drive 
> > train (motor, tanny and rear-end); motor runs but frame is rusted. I 
> > have no time for tthis project at this time since I travel 75% of the 
> > time. Asking $7K for both 
> > 
> > Contact David Maez 
> > 
> > ----------------------------------- 
> > -- 
> > Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX 
> > 1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out." 
> > _______________________________________________ 
> > scotyp at comcast.net 
> > 
> > Healeys at autox.team.net 
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Sun Oct 21 06:38:32 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 07:38:32 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] SOS '07 projects update
Message-ID: <001c01c813df$4c2cfa70$e486ef50$@com>

Hey y'all,

 

I've got confirmation that Mary (the widow that sold me a Bugeye and the 4
raccoon pooh laden parts cars) has confirmed that she and her son will
participate in SOS '07. She kept one Bugeye because her son wanted  a car
that his late father had owned, and she kept the MKI Midget that she and her
husband had their first date in. That car has been sitting many years.

 

We'll trailer the car over from Madison to the Dream Farm, and assess the
overall condition. We'll see if we can get it running, shifting, starting
and stopping. essentially make a drivable vehicle for her.

 

We have numerous other projects on tap. We'll have some special guests, some
great food, and as always, broadcast the event in real time with 2 way
audience communication via Yahoo Messenger.

 

SOS '07 is held at the Dream Farm (between Fond du Lac and Oshkosh, WI) on
Fri & Sat after Thanksgiving.

 

WST

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sun Oct 21 07:09:16 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 06:09:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Hood Frame
In-Reply-To: <BAY101-W173D446B2245F0B38C3029DB980@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKOEJLDGAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>

Hi, Dan -
Rustoleum Smoke Gray, #7786.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Dan
Serrao
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2007 3:04 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Hood Frame


Some time ago, someone stated what color the hood frame should be painted. I
think it was a Rustoleum color. Could that person please resend the
information? Thanks to all

Dan Serrao
1963 BJ7
_________________________________________________________________

From schauss at worldnet.att.net  Sun Oct 21 07:59:13 2007
From: schauss at worldnet.att.net (Peter Schauss)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 09:59:13 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] o/d wiring
In-Reply-To: <004a01c8138d$52549310$5201a8c0@Jim>
Message-ID: <20071021135937.4DD681879CE@autox.team.net>

The two W terminals feed the relay coil.  They are interchangeable.  They
were reversed on my car which appeared to have the original wiring.

HTH,
Peter Schauss
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB

> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+schauss=worldnet.att.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+schauss=worldnet.att.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf
> Of James Shope
> Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2007 10:52 PM
> To: healeys
> Subject: [Healeys] o/d wiring
> 
> bought a new od relay from sportand classic and found it is numbered
> different
> than what it shows in manual.  this is the screw terminal type and it is
> numbered right to left with W1, C2,C3, and W3.  i hooked the w/p wires to
> W1,
> w/g to C2, whites to C3, and ground wire to W3.  book shows w/p to W2, w/g
> toC2, whites to C1 and ground to W1.  before i hook the power wire to the
> fuse
> block, can anyone tell me if this is incorrect and what is correct.  TIA,
> hjim
> _______________________________________________
> schauss at worldnet.att.net
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From scotyp at comcast.net  Sun Oct 21 09:05:08 2007
From: scotyp at comcast.net (scotyp at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 15:05:08 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] For Sale 1962 Austin Healey 3000 BJ7 Mark IIa - Plano, TX
Message-ID: <102120071505.7595.471B6AA4000CAFD900001DAB22007601809F979B010C9C@comcast.net>

Nah, but maybe you could sell the car like it was the "Shroud of Turin"!

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Tom Felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net> 

> Is this kinda like seeing the face of the virgin Mary on a piece of french 
> toast?:) 
> 
> 
> > [Original Message] 
> > From: 
> > To: ; Patton Dickson 
> <57healey at gmail.com> 
> > Date: 10/20/2007 8:42:56 PM 
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] For Sale 1962 Austin Healey 3000 BJ7 Mark IIa - 
> Plano, TX 
> > 
> > I know it sounds weird, but check out the 4th photo from the end in the 
> Healey garage photos. If you look carefully, the front left hand tire of 
> that truck in the background appears to form the ghost of Donald himself in 
> the driver's seat that blue over white BJ8!! 
> > 
> > Scot 
> > '66 BJ8 
> > 
> > -------------- Original message -------------- 
> > From: "Patton Dickson" <57healey at gmail.com> 
> > 
> > > This was advertized locally (Plano, TX), and I don't have the space 
> > > for more projects. I have no financial interest, but told the owner 
> > > that I would post this for him. 
> > > 
> > > I posted the pictures he sent me 
> > > http://57healey.spaces.live.com/photos/cns!73DC1343A8E8DA55!238/ 
> > > 
> > > ----------------------------------- 
> > > 
> > > 1962 Austin Healey 3000 BJ7 Mark IIa (roll up windows). V8 conversion 
> > > with Ford 9" rear-end ( no motor or tanny). Has metal flared 
> > > fenders;lot of parts. . - $4,300. 
> > > 
> > > Also have a 1961 Austin Healey MarkII with no body but complete drive 
> > > train (motor, tanny and rear-end); motor runs but frame is rusted. I 
> > > have no time for tthis project at this time since I travel 75% of the 
> > > time. Asking $7K for both 
> > > 
> > > Contact David Maez 
> > > 
> > > ----------------------------------- 
> > > -- 
> > > Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX 
> > > 1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out." 
> > > _______________________________________________ 
> > > scotyp at comcast.net 
> > > 
> > > Healeys at autox.team.net 
> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 
> > _______________________________________________ 
> > tomfelts at earthlink.net 
> > 
> > Healeys at autox.team.net 
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Sun Oct 21 09:30:57 2007
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 16:30:57 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] factory numbers, etc.
In-Reply-To: <W$2CiECgAzGHFwmI@jharper.demon.co.uk>
References: <047401c812cf$49d47610$5201a8c0@Jim><ff59076c0710201819x24ed885boef5c71dc690f5df2@mail.gmail.com>
	<W$2CiECgAzGHFwmI@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Message-ID: <001501c813f7$614a0570$0200a8c0@simonalexa>

Yes,
I never saw one that wasn't gold. 
When I was a kid(?) we all had pretty dodgy motors, mostly minis, and we
used to put Gold(coloured)seal engines in them as and when we blew the
originals. Usually put in bigger engines than we started with.
My 3000's gearbox is a) gold and b) has a plate on it to the effect that
it's a genuine rebuilt item. But I can't remember if it's a factory Goldseal
without looking at it.
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+simon.lachlan=homecall.co.uk at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+simon.lachlan=homecall.co.uk at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of John Harper
Sent: 21 October 2007 11:55
To: Alan Seigrist
Cc: healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] factory numbers, etc.

Alan

I was based at BMC Service Cowley for a while in the early 1960s and can 
be 99.9% certain that Gold Seal Engines were exactly that. To have not 
painted them gold would have caused utter confusion.

Regards

>James -
>
>A few very early 100s had their engines painted a marine grey/blue
>color, and if I'm not mistaken factory replacement "gold seal" engines
>often were blue in color.
>
>Alan
>
>On 10/20/07, James  Shope <healeymanjim at hansencc.net> wrote:
>> does anyone know for certain whether the factory ever painted the
>> engine/transmission/od a blue color, and if not, why would a restoration
shop
>> do it?   healeymanjim
>_______________________________________________
>ah at jharper.demon.co.uk
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

-- 
John Harper
_______________________________________________
simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From bn1 at pacbell.net  Sun Oct 21 10:30:18 2007
From: bn1 at pacbell.net (Mr. Bill)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 09:30:18 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Sports and Classics
In-Reply-To: <005301c813b3$4d13dc00$1f9bfea9@dell>
References: <c56.20929741.344c39fc@aol.com>
	<005301c813b3$4d13dc00$1f9bfea9@dell>
Message-ID: <471B7E9A.6080508@pacbell.net>

Back in the '70's there weren't a lot of venders for Healey stuff.  
(This was a thread not long ago.)  In 1976, I built a rompin' stompin' 
engine for my first Healey, a '61 BT7.  I wound up using Sports & 
Classics headers with a custom exhaust behind them.  That system is 
still running fine for the current owner who lives close by.  I was 
always happy with all items purchased from them.

As long as we've opened this door, the tonneau on that car came from MG 
Mitten.  Sound familiar to any of you?  :-)

Bill Barnett
'53 BN1 #663
My last remaining Healey of 13 previous ones.
(Sanity finally prevailed!)


bluechip wrote:
> They are still in business and peddle lots of parts on ebay (512classics). 
> I believe they moved from Darien, but are still in CT.
>
> Jim
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <Healeyguy at aol.com>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 1:13 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] o/d wiring
>
>
>   
>> In a message dated 10/20/2007 5:20:34 PM Hawaiian Standard Time,
>> 63AHBJ7 at comcast.net writes:
>>
>> Just  curious, Jim...
>>
>> <<sportand classic>>
>>
>> NEVER heard of  them and I have been around over 5  decades<G>!!??
>>
>> Ed
>>
>>
>>
>> Sports and Classics was in Darien Connecticut and a major supplier of
>> British parts several decades ago.  The last catalog I have from them was 
>> dated
>> September 1984.Not sure of their current status.
>> Aloha
>> Perry
>>
>>
>>
>> ************************************** See what's new at 
>> http://www.aol.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> bluechipracing at snet.net
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 
>>     
> _______________________________________________
> bn1 at pacbell.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From pennell at cox.net  Sun Oct 21 10:31:07 2007
From: pennell at cox.net (pennell at cox.net)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 12:31:07 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fitting fenders,doors
In-Reply-To: <102120070904.5026.471B160E0000A674000013A22216554886CA070B0B0E0C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20071021123107.JIN7X.55663.root@eastrmwml07.mgt.cox.net>

MS,

I am no pro by any means but I have done body work/fitting/repairing on several cars.  IMHO there is no set precedure wherein you attach one part and it never gets moved again, then attach another and it never gets moved again, etc.

Mount the shrouds first though.  They have little and in the case of the rear shroud no adjustment for position.  Then attach the rear fenders and get their contour fitting the rear shroud.  Next  is the doors fitting them to the rear fenders.  Finally are the front fenders fitting them to the doors.

It is important that to get them all to fit you will LIKELY need to go back and tweak the position of each piece - fenders and doors.  Possibly the front shroud where it attaches to the main rails and the fender wells.  In other words all will have to be tweaked simultaneously for the best fit.

Hope this helps
Keith Pennell

> Hello list,
> What is the BEST procedure to follow when fitting original fenders that are not original to the car (1959 bn4) ? Do I fit the fenders to the doors, is there a way to make sure the doors are fitted properly? I am alittle lost on where to begin... any help would be appreciated.
> Thanks
> MS
> BN4

From HealeyHundred at comcast.net  Sun Oct 21 11:06:44 2007
From: HealeyHundred at comcast.net (Richard Gordon)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 11:06:44 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Hemmings Sports & Exotic mag
Message-ID: <9A080389-C0DA-4C33-9A83-AAEC59410466@comcast.net>

Just happened to see this months edition of Hemmings Sports & Exotic  
Car magazine with an article on Austin-Healey Conclave 2007 by Craig  
Fitzgerald.
Pages 30 to 33.

Richard Gordon
Rocky Mountain Austin-Healey Club
1830 South Newport Street
Denver, Colorado 80224
Home 303-756-7427
Cell 303-913-1171
HealeyHundred at comcast.net

From loftusdesign at cox.net  Sun Oct 21 15:30:54 2007
From: loftusdesign at cox.net (John Loftus)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 14:30:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 roll-up mechanism
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0710201813j10c3d2c0l95a9ef4eb94fac6c@mail.gmail.com>
References: <471A6083.2020004@cox.net>
	<ff59076c0710201813j10c3d2c0l95a9ef4eb94fac6c@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <471BC50E.2020701@cox.net>

Alan,

The parts book shows them as two different part numbers (a left and a 
right) so they are mirrored and
not possible to work on either door.

Cheers,
John

Alan Seigrist wrote:
> John -
>
> A quick question - can you flip the mechanism so it will work on either door?
>
> Alan

From loftusdesign at cox.net  Sun Oct 21 15:37:09 2007
From: loftusdesign at cox.net (John Loftus)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 14:37:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 roll-up mechanism
In-Reply-To: <471BC50E.2020701@cox.net>
References: <471A6083.2020004@cox.net>
	<ff59076c0710201813j10c3d2c0l95a9ef4eb94fac6c@mail.gmail.com>
	<471BC50E.2020701@cox.net>
Message-ID: <471BC685.5030301@cox.net>

Actually, I take that back. ;)  I looked at my regulators and they look 
identical except the spring is flipped between the two. So as long as 
you set it up so the spring has more tension as the window is lowered it 
should work for either side.

Cheerio,
John

John Loftus wrote:
> Alan,
>
> The parts book shows them as two different part numbers (a left and a 
> right) so they are mirrored and
> not possible to work on either door.
>
> Cheers,
> John
>
> Alan Seigrist wrote:
>> John -
>>
>> A quick question - can you flip the mechanism so it will work on 
>> either door?
>>
>> Alan

From prattri at msn.com  Sun Oct 21 16:17:00 2007
From: prattri at msn.com (Richard Pratt)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 18:17:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners for BJ8
Message-ID: <BAYC1-PASMTP1041A5ABDBD8D516EB2582BD990@CEZ.ICE>

Has anyone on this list taken the time to list all the different size nuts
and bolts used on a BJ8?  I would like to replace the old stuff with new and
thought I would ask if anyone one had done this.

Richard

65 BJ8

From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Oct 21 17:03:40 2007
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 19:03:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Magazines For The Troops in Iraq
Message-ID: <20071021.191010.3888.1.dwflagg@juno.com>

A while back someone on the list had mentioned to me that our troops in
Iraq were very interested in car related magazines. I work at NAVSTA
Norfolk and have tried with no success to find out where to ship them.
Does anyone out there know? Thanks.

Doug

From jstmorris at yahoo.com  Sun Oct 21 17:49:41 2007
From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 19:49:41 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners for BJ8
In-Reply-To: <BAYC1-PASMTP1041A5ABDBD8D516EB2582BD990@CEZ.ICE>
Message-ID: <533728.4234.qm@web30302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello Richard;  Both attachments are Excel spread sheets.  The first was done by Jack Aeckerlin and the second by James Wilson.  Each spread sheet complements the other and together you should have what you are after.  
  --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada;  '60 MkI BN7, '62 MkII BT7

Richard Pratt <prattri at msn.com> wrote: << Has anyone on this list taken the time to list all the different size nuts and bolts used on a BJ8? I would like to replace the old stuff with new and thought I would ask if anyone one had done this. >>


J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
       
---------------------------------
Make free worldwide PC-to-PC calls. Try the new Yahoo! Canada Messenger

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From MedLabInc at msn.com  Sun Oct 21 17:53:15 2007
From: MedLabInc at msn.com (Dick Matson)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 16:53:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Sports and Classics
Message-ID: <BAY108-DAV109F79B06AEAF2CDA5A2B4A2990@phx.gbl>

MG Mitten sounds familiar.  I have a car cover for our Bj8.  It is a MG
Mitten.

DM / Bj8
----- Original Message -----
From: Mr. Bill<mailto:bn1 at pacbell.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 9:30 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sports and Classics


Back in the '70's there weren't a lot of venders for Healey stuff.
(This was a thread not long ago.)  In 1976, I built a rompin' stompin'
engine for my first Healey, a '61 BT7.  I wound up using Sports &
Classics headers with a custom exhaust behind them.  That system is
still running fine for the current owner who lives close by.  I was
always happy with all items purchased from them.

As long as we've opened this door, the tonneau on that car came from MG
Mitten.  Sound familiar to any of you?  :-)

Bill Barnett
'53 BN1 #663
My last remaining Healey of 13 previous ones.
(Sanity finally prevailed!)


bluechip wrote:
> They are still in business and peddle lots of parts on ebay (512classics).
> I believe they moved from Darien, but are still in CT.
>
> Jim
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Healeyguy at aol.com<mailto:Healeyguy at aol.com>>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
> Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 1:13 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] o/d wiring
>
>
>
>> In a message dated 10/20/2007 5:20:34 PM Hawaiian Standard Time,
>> 63AHBJ7 at comcast.net<mailto:63AHBJ7 at comcast.net> writes:
>>
>> Just  curious, Jim...
>>
>> <<sportand classic>>
>>
>> NEVER heard of  them and I have been around over 5  decades<G>!!??
>>
>> Ed
>>
>>
>>
>> Sports and Classics was in Darien Connecticut and a major supplier of
>> British parts several decades ago.  The last catalog I have from them was
>> dated
>> September 1984.Not sure of their current status.
>> Aloha
>> Perry
>>
>>
>>
>> ************************************** See what's new at
>> http://www.aol.com<http://www.aol.com/>
>> _______________________________________________
>> bluechipracing at snet.net<mailto:bluechipracing at snet.net>
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<http://autox.team.net/mailman/
listinfo/healeys>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> bn1 at pacbell.net<mailto:bn1 at pacbell.net>
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<http://autox.team.net/mailman/
listinfo/healeys>
_______________________________________________
medlabinc at msn.com<mailto:medlabinc at msn.com>

Healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<http://autox.team.net/mailman/
listinfo/healeys>

From ahbn6 at optonline.net  Sun Oct 21 18:46:09 2007
From: ahbn6 at optonline.net (John Sims)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 20:46:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners for BJ8
In-Reply-To: <533728.4234.qm@web30302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <BAYC1-PASMTP1041A5ABDBD8D516EB2582BD990@CEZ.ICE>
	<533728.4234.qm@web30302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001301c81444$f052a9a0$6500a8c0@simsoffice>

The list strips all attachments. If you send direct to me, I will post on my
web site for all to see and will inform the list when done so.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com
 


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of J.
Scott Morris
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 7:50 PM
To: Richard Pratt; 'Healeys'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fasteners for BJ8

Hello Richard;  Both attachments are Excel spread sheets.  The first was
done by Jack Aeckerlin and the second by James Wilson.  Each spread sheet
complements the other and together you should have what you are after.
  --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada;  '60 MkI BN7, '62 MkII BT7

Richard Pratt <prattri at msn.com> wrote: << Has anyone on this list taken the
time to list all the different size nuts and bolts used on a BJ8? I would
like to replace the old stuff with new and thought I would ask if anyone one
had done this. >>


J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives

---------------------------------
Make free worldwide PC-to-PC calls. Try the new Yahoo! Canada Messenger

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From 63AHBJ7 at comcast.net  Sun Oct 21 19:07:19 2007
From: 63AHBJ7 at comcast.net (63AHBJ7)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 20:07:19 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Sports and Classics
References: <BAY108-DAV109F79B06AEAF2CDA5A2B4A2990@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <013501c81447$e52bddf0$6601a8c0@actualshop>

<<I have a car cover for our Bj8.  It is a MG Mitten.>>

Then you not only have a "relic" (maybe a "collectable"??) but it MUST be VERY
close to the age of your car and needs replacement, Dick!!!!

From mkgoodman at worldnet.att.net  Sun Oct 21 19:48:27 2007
From: mkgoodman at worldnet.att.net (Mark Goodman)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 21:48:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Computer Virus - CNN confirms and Snopes too
Message-ID: <000901c8144d$bdbb86c0$39329440$@att.net>

>From Sandy Vought:

 

Subject: Fw: BAD Virus ---CNN announced -- Snopes confirms as real.

 

 

 

Read this and then hit the Snopes link just below for confirmation.

 

http://www.snopes.com/computer/virus/postcard.asp

 

i HAV 

             SEND THIS TO EVERYONE ON YOUR CONTACT LIST!! 

A new virus has just been discovered that has been classified by Microsoft
as the most destructive ever. This virus was discovered yesterday afternoon
by McAfee . This virus simply destroys Sector Zero from the hard disk, where
vital information for its functioning are stored. 
This virus acts in the following manner:
It sends itself automatically to all contacts on your list with the title: 
"You've received a Post Card from a Family member". 

As soon as the supposed virtual card is opened the computer freezes so 
that the user has to rebo ot. When the ctrl+alt+ del keys or the reset
button are pressed, the virus destroys Sector Zero, thus permanently
destroying the hard disk. Yesterday in just a few hours this virus caused
panic in New York, according to news broadcast by CNN. 

This alert was received by an employee of Microsoft itself. 
So don't open any mails with subject: "A Post Card from ..." As soon as you
get the mail, delete it !! Even if you know the sender !!! 

Please pass this mail to all of your friends. 

Forward this to everyone in your address book. I'm sure most people, like
myself, would rather receive this notice 25 times than not at All 
  
 

 

 






  _____  


See what's new at AOL.com <http://www.aol.com/?NCID=AOLCMP00300000001170>
and Make AOL Your
<http://www.aol.com/mksplash.adp?NCID=AOLCMP00300000001169>  Homepage.

From shop at justbrits.com  Sun Oct 21 20:09:42 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 21:09:42 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Computer Virus - CNN confirms and Snopes too
References: <000901c8144d$bdbb86c0$39329440$@att.net>
Message-ID: <006301c81450$9cc75ef0$6601a8c0@actualshop>

OLDER than an Austin 7, Mark.

And if any of you are "relying" on "McAfee" for "protection", may the computer
gods help you (POS).

Ed

From edwinharris at bellsouth.net  Sun Oct 21 20:40:55 2007
From: edwinharris at bellsouth.net (Edwin Harris)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 22:40:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gear lever boot ring
In-Reply-To: <4719FB4E.1030701@wowway.com>
References: <4719FB4E.1030701@wowway.com>
Message-ID: <471C0DB7.4000008@bellsouth.net>

Dan,

I don't think there is a way. The boot is too thick or the ferrule is 
too small, depending on your point of view. Glad to see you refer to it 
as a ferrule. usually the only time I see that word it is in reference 
to the ferrule on the tip of a cue stick.

Edwin
66 BJ8



Daniel and Diane White wrote:
> O.K. here's a question for you listers with a center shift gearbox.  My 
> exploded view of the gearbox shows the chrome ferrule, "gear lever boot 
> ring", on the underside of the rubber gear lever boot (Moss catalog).  
> Logic (?) would dictate to me that the ferrule is on top and fits over 
> the molded part of the boot that slides down over the base of the gear 
> lever.  Question- has anyone successfully installed one of these chrome 
> ferrules? I've lubed the boot, the gear lever, put the boot on the 
> lever, tried to put the ferrule on the boot- no go.  To me it looks like 
> the i.d. of the ferrule is too small for the o.d. of the boot portion 
> that slides down over the gear lever.  I think my only recourse is to 
> saw a slit in the ferrule on the back side.  I wonder if /some/ of the 
> people that repro /some /of these parts ever try to put them on a 
> Healey.  Any thoughts?
> Dan White
> 1962 BN7 Mk II
> _______________________________________________
> edwinharris at bellsouth.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Sun Oct 21 21:01:59 2007
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (James  Shope)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 20:01:59 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] sport and classic
Message-ID: <010d01c81457$e99dead0$5201a8c0@Jim>

they always have stuff to sell on ebay healey parts.  the checks are sent to
darien, connnecticut.   hjim

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Sun Oct 21 21:13:57 2007
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (James  Shope)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 20:13:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] blue engines
Message-ID: <012001c81459$95e05110$5201a8c0@Jim>

the color on this bj7 is like a ford engine blue and it includes the trans and
prop shaft so i am assuming the restorer had some blue around and decided to
paint it that color.  i just remember listers stating that some engines were
blue, but if a replacement engine was put in, the trans and prop shaft would
not be blue.   hjim

From MedLabInc at msn.com  Sun Oct 21 21:25:41 2007
From: MedLabInc at msn.com (Dick Matson)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 20:25:41 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Fw:  Sports and Classics
Message-ID: <BAY108-DAV3D2E95788F5150A050954A29A0@phx.gbl>

It's condition is excellent.

Dick / Bj8
----- Original Message -----
From: 63AHBJ7<mailto:63AHBJ7 at comcast.net>
To: AustinHealey List<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 6:07 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Sports and Classics


<<I have a car cover for our Bj8.  It is a MG Mitten.>>

Then you not only have a "relic" (maybe a "collectable"??) but it MUST be
VERY
close to the age of your car and needs replacement, Dick!!!!
_______________________________________________
medlabinc at msn.com<mailto:medlabinc at msn.com>

Healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<http://autox.team.net/mailman/
listinfo/healeys>

From mayorrichard at hotmail.com  Mon Oct 22 00:04:00 2007
From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 06:04:00 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Computer Virus - CNN confirms and Snopes too
In-Reply-To: <006301c81450$9cc75ef0$6601a8c0@actualshop>
References: <000901c8144d$bdbb86c0$39329440$@att.net>
	<006301c81450$9cc75ef0$6601a8c0@actualshop>
Message-ID: <BAY108-W6185B195DA4AEEBA79B6EC09A0@phx.gbl>

Hi Listers:  I bought the latest MaAfee protection for both my office and home
computer about two months ago. Both slowed to a crawl - more like a snails
pace. I googled the scenario and learned I was not the only one to experience
this problem. After much consideration and thought (alot about viruses) I
uninstalled it from both home and office computer  - a loss of around $70. It
was like going from dialup to highspeed.  I may not have "protection" but it
sure is nice having a computer that responds quickly.  Richard Mayor
 > From: shop at justbrits.com> To: healeys at autox.team.net> Date: Sun, 21 Oct
2007 21:09:42 -0500> Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Computer Virus - CNN confirms
and Snopes too> > OLDER than an Austin 7, Mark.> > And if any of you are
"relying" on "McAfee" for "protection", may the computer> gods help you
(POS).> > Ed> _______________________________________________>
mayorrichard at hotmail.com > > Healeys at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
_________________________________________________________________
Boo! Scare away worms, viruses and so much more! Try Windows Live OneCare!
http://onecare.live.com/standard/en-us/purchase/trial.aspx?s_cid=wl_hotmailne
ws

From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com  Mon Oct 22 01:32:07 2007
From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 09:32:07 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] BJ-8 Clove Box Lock
In-Reply-To: <000401c8132c$60fef6f0$d3eb6e47@youro0kwkw9jwc>
References: <000401c8132c$60fef6f0$d3eb6e47@youro0kwkw9jwc>
Message-ID: <63B1A4D5F62C7B458A5B757A5EA817500365139E@S4DE8PSAANH.t-systems.com>

 Hello Gary,
The one who did the glove box locks is Thomas Schneider, tsabj8 at t-online.de .
He is a good friend of mine. He still has locks left, but without barrels and
keys. He used NOS barrels and has no more left. If you just need the lock, get
in contact with him or I can contact him.

Josef Eckert
Koenigswinter/GERMANY

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: GARY MOOMAU [mailto:moomau at verizon.net]
Gesendet: Samstag, 20. Oktober 2007 17:18
An: healeys at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Healeys] BJ-8 Clove Box Lock

Hello Healey Folks,



Does anyone out there know if the fellow from Germany (?) still makes BJ-8
Clove Box Locks?  I looked on e-bay (#130042444340) and I did not see it
listed any more.  Thanks in advance for any assistance.



Gary Moomau, '67 BJ8

Yucaipa, CA

From bj7healey at gto.net  Mon Oct 22 05:59:38 2007
From: bj7healey at gto.net (Bob Slater)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 07:59:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Computer Virus - CNN confirms and Snopes too
References: <000901c8144d$bdbb86c0$39329440$@att.net><006301c81450$9cc75ef0$6601a8c0@actualshop>
	<BAY108-W6185B195DA4AEEBA79B6EC09A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <001701c814a3$075c66a0$6400a8c0@acer684c9a655d>

Hi Richard
      I have been using Free AVG for a few years now and have not had a 
problem with speed. Also installed winows defender abut a month ago and 
these both seem to work ok on all 3 computers that I have. The website for 
AVG is
http://free.grisoft.com/doc/28415/lng/us/tpl/v5

The website for windows defender is 
http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/details.aspx?FamilyId=435BFCE7-DA2B-4A6A-AFA4-F7F14E605A0D&displaylang=en

                                       Both are free
                                                                    R Slater 
1963 BJ7
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "richard mayor" <mayorrichard at hotmail.com>
To: <shop at justbrits.com>
Cc: "healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 2:04 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Computer Virus - CNN confirms and Snopes too


> Hi Listers:  I bought the latest MaAfee protection for both my office and 
> home
> computer about two months ago. Both slowed to a crawl - more like a snails
> pace. I googled the scenario and learned I was not the only one to 
> experience
> this problem. After much consideration and thought (alot about viruses) I
> uninstalled it from both home and office computer  - a loss of around $70. 
> It
> was like going from dialup to highspeed.  I may not have "protection" but 
> it
> sure is nice having a computer that responds quickly.  Richard Mayor
> > From: shop at justbrits.com> To: healeys at autox.team.net> Date: Sun, 21 Oct
> 2007 21:09:42 -0500> Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Computer Virus - CNN 
> confirms
> and Snopes too> > OLDER than an Austin 7, Mark.> > And if any of you are
> "relying" on "McAfee" for "protection", may the computer> gods help you
> (POS).> > Ed> _______________________________________________>
> mayorrichard at hotmail.com > > Healeys at autox.team.net>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> _________________________________________________________________
> Boo! Scare away worms, viruses and so much more! Try Windows Live OneCare!
> http://onecare.live.com/standard/en-us/purchase/trial.aspx?s_cid=wl_hotmailne
> ws
> _______________________________________________
> bj7healey at gto.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.5/1084 - Release Date: 
> 10/21/2007 3:09 PM

From ahbn6 at optonline.net  Mon Oct 22 06:32:24 2007
From: ahbn6 at optonline.net (John Sims)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 08:32:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Computer Virus - CNN confirms and Snopes too
In-Reply-To: <001701c814a3$075c66a0$6400a8c0@acer684c9a655d>
References: <000901c8144d$bdbb86c0$39329440$@att.net>
	<006301c81450$9cc75ef0$6601a8c0@actualshop>
	<BAY108-W6185B195DA4AEEBA79B6EC09A0@phx.gbl>
	<001701c814a3$075c66a0$6400a8c0@acer684c9a655d>
Message-ID: <001201c814a7$9a717580$6500a8c0@simsoffice>

AVG is very good but also take a look at Zone Alarms. They have a free
version and their security suite is inexpensive. Never had a problem with
them as is common with Norton and Mc Afee products. ZoneAlarms is top ranked
by PC magazines.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com
 

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Slater
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 8:00 AM
To: richard mayor; shop at justbrits.com
Cc: healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Computer Virus - CNN confirms and Snopes too

Hi Richard
      I have been using Free AVG for a few years now and have not had a
problem with speed. Also installed winows defender abut a month ago and
these both seem to work ok on all 3 computers that I have. The website for
AVG is
http://free.grisoft.com/doc/28415/lng/us/tpl/v5

From bighealey at charter.net  Mon Oct 22 07:08:56 2007
From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 06:08:56 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] blue engines
In-Reply-To: <012001c81459$95e05110$5201a8c0@Jim>
Message-ID: <000001c814ac$b7d13250$1002a8c0@TRACY>

James,

Factory warranty rebuilds were gold.  I believe it was know as the gold-seal
program. These received a new tag number also.  I saw one of these and it is
rather bizarre, so if you see a gold engine you'll know what that was about.

Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !
President AHCUSA              www.healey.org
VP/Events Director GGAHC  www.goldengatehealeys.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+bighealey=charter.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+bighealey=charter.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
James Shope
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 8:14 PM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] blue engines

the color on this bj7 is like a ford engine blue and it includes the trans
and
prop shaft so i am assuming the restorer had some blue around and decided to
paint it that color.  i just remember listers stating that some engines were
blue, but if a replacement engine was put in, the trans and prop shaft would
not be blue.   hjim
_______________________________________________
bighealey at charter.net

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From davzu29 at cox.net  Mon Oct 22 07:21:17 2007
From: davzu29 at cox.net (David Z)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 09:21:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] shake
References: <024d01c812c4$58ff8590$5201a8c0@Jim>
Message-ID: <006201c814ae$6e46ae10$6601a8c0@ORGANIZA79207D>

Send them to Hendrix.  They do great work.

David Z.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>
To: "healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2007 10:53 PM
Subject: [Healeys] shake


> almost every healey in our club that has a problem with shake has the 
> brake
> drums out of balance.  one car shook so bad on the jack stands i was 
> afraid it
> was going to jump off the stands.  i took them to the local crankshaft
> balancing shop here in vegas and the machinist made a special jig to 
> balance
> them by grinding off metal in the heavy spots.  i would think any good
> machinist could do this at a balancing shop.  i also have used the bubble
> balancing method but it is not quite as accurate as the machine shop.
> healeymanjim
> _______________________________________________
> davzu29 at cox.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 


-- 
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 103 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

From ahbn6 at optonline.net  Mon Oct 22 07:54:52 2007
From: ahbn6 at optonline.net (John Sims)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 09:54:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Bolt Codes
Message-ID: <001901c814b3$1f1a7bf0$6500a8c0@simsoffice>

The Bolt Codes as discussed on the list the past day or so can now be found
on my web site at:

http://www.healey6.com/Technical/BMC-boltcodes.xls

and

http://www.healey6.com/Technical/boltcodes2.xls

They are in Excel format.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com

 

From rnbmail at yahoo.com  Mon Oct 22 09:02:06 2007
From: rnbmail at yahoo.com (Robert Blair)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 08:02:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] blue engines
In-Reply-To: <000001c814ac$b7d13250$1002a8c0@TRACY>
Message-ID: <818286.44395.qm@web37901.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi list,

Tracy is right - BMC factory 're-conditioned' engines were painted gold
and were called 'Gold Seal' engines.  As a Brit, I remeber them well as
a kid.  They were bored, new pistons rings, oil pump, valves - the full
works, and were guaranteed as a new engine.

Robert.

--- Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net> wrote:

> James,
> 
> Factory warranty rebuilds were gold.  I believe it was know as the
> gold-seal
> program. These received a new tag number also.  I saw one of these
> and it is
> rather bizarre, so if you see a gold engine you'll know what that was
> about.
> 
> Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !
> President AHCUSA              www.healey.org
> VP/Events Director GGAHC  www.goldengatehealeys.com
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+bighealey=charter.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+bighealey=charter.net at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of
> James Shope
> Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 8:14 PM
> To: healeys
> Subject: [Healeys] blue engines
> 
> the color on this bj7 is like a ford engine blue and it includes the
> trans
> and
> prop shaft so i am assuming the restorer had some blue around and
> decided to
> paint it that color.  i just remember listers stating that some
> engines were
> blue, but if a replacement engine was put in, the trans and prop
> shaft would
> not be blue.   hjim
> _______________________________________________
> bighealey at charter.net
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> _______________________________________________
> rnbmail at yahoo.com 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 


                      Robert N. Blair
  65 Yellow BJ8
  rnbmail at yahoo.com
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

From JNBrashear at garverengineers.com  Mon Oct 22 09:17:36 2007
From: JNBrashear at garverengineers.com (Brashear, Jack, N)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 10:17:36 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 engine parts
In-Reply-To: <000301c81205$33f352a0$75306d18@RTHOMAS>
Message-ID: <2D0989D186D44349BE853EE6CFC87AE603687FCF@glitas07.garverinc.local>

Hi Rick.  Whooie, those things are pretty tough to find these days.  For
the last BJ8 engine we built, we used one of the SS aftermarket units
from Moss as we weren't able to find a good used one.  It's an Aussie
creation and we found it to be very well made.  It installed perfectly
and it appears to be functioning very well.  It is a bit on the pricey
side though.

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+jnbrashear=garverengineers.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+jnbrashear=garverengineers.com at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Rick Thomas
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2007 11:05 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 engine parts

I am rebuilding a BJ8 engine and require a water pump and harmonic
balancer
. If anyone has one from a wrecked engine or surplus parts could you
contact
me please
thanks rick

From ahbn6 at optonline.net  Mon Oct 22 15:26:35 2007
From: ahbn6 at optonline.net (John Sims)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 17:26:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive
Message-ID: <005601c814f2$39af73a0$6500a8c0@simsoffice>

Several weeks ago, there was a question about the wonderful and, at the same
time, mysterious Laycock de Normanville Overdrive with which we have a
love/hate relationship. After spending a lot of Google and Yahoo time, I
posted an email to the list giving the URLs for a five section 100 page or
so detail on the overdrive theory, dismantling, rebuild, troubleshooting.
(One lister gave me another URL which had scanned copies of some of the
pages). I have recently been made aware of the fact that the URLs that I
found are no longer valid. Apparently they lapsed and someone else is now
using them. This document was prepared about 7 years ago and the authors
listed email address is no longer valid.

Anyway . . . in a stroke of genius on my part, I had already downloaded the
files which were in pdf format. They are now on my website in the end of the
Technical Articles section.

Enjoy!

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com

 

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Mon Oct 22 16:53:18 2007
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Leonard  Hartnett)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 15:53:18 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] OD Problem
Message-ID: <9B8D0F32DC3640C7896FCB383E59F508@LeonardPC>

On the way back from Autumn Classic in San Juan Bautista (CA), my overdrive
began acting strangely.

With the OD switch ON, when I step down on the accelerator, the OD disengages.
With OD engaged, turning the OD switch OFF causes the OD to disengage
instantly without stepping on the accelerator. I assume (oops!) that the
problem is electrical. Which component, or combination of components, is most
likely to be the culprit?

TIA

(The Other) Len
Vacaville,  California,  USA
1967 3000 MKIII, HBJ8L39031

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Oct 22 17:26:45 2007
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 16:26:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] OD Problem
In-Reply-To: <9B8D0F32DC3640C7896FCB383E59F508@LeonardPC>
References: <9B8D0F32DC3640C7896FCB383E59F508@LeonardPC>
Message-ID: <06DE9B9D-3F04-45A8-B15C-3A7BCF796537@sbcglobal.net>

Faulty relay.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Oct 22, 2007, at 3:53 PM, Leonard Hartnett wrote:

> On the way back from Autumn Classic in San Juan Bautista (CA), my  
> overdrive
> began acting strangely.
>
> With the OD switch ON, when I step down on the accelerator, the OD  
> disengages.
> With OD engaged, turning the OD switch OFF causes the OD to disengage
> instantly without stepping on the accelerator. I assume (oops!)  
> that the
> problem is electrical. Which component, or combination of  
> components, is most
> likely to be the culprit?

From MBran89793 at aol.com  Mon Oct 22 17:28:09 2007
From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 19:28:09 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Sports and Classics
Message-ID: <bfc.20cda8c8.344e8c09@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/21/2007 7:53:37 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
MedLabInc at msn.com writes:

As long  as we've opened this door, the tonneau on that car came from  MG
Mitten.  Sound familiar to any of you?   :-)



Yes, the owner was Marian Webber. (Spelling may not be correct.)  I  ordered 
quite a few items from MG Mitten back in those days and got to know her  on a 
first name basis.
 
Marion S.  Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey  Club




************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Mon Oct 22 18:11:57 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 17:11:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] OD Problem
In-Reply-To: <9B8D0F32DC3640C7896FCB383E59F508@LeonardPC>
Message-ID: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKKEKCDGAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>

Hi, Len -
Sounds like the overdrive relay to me.  When you first turn on the dash
switch, you energize the relay.  If the relay is working normally, power is
then supplied to the overdrive solenoid from the relay and the throttle
switch then provides the circuit to keep power to the solenoid regardless of
the position of the dash switch until you step on the gas.  If the relay is
not working, then you are getting power to the overdrive solenoid only
through the throttle switch as long as the dash switch is on.  Turning off
the dash switch will immediately de-energize the relay, or stepping on the
gas to open the throttle switch contacts.  The result is the overdrive
dropping out.
Must be a rash of failing relays out there.  I've just received a new one
from Moss to replace mine.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
Leonard Hartnett
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 3:53 PM
To: Healey Mail List
Subject: [Healeys] OD Problem


On the way back from Autumn Classic in San Juan Bautista (CA), my overdrive
began acting strangely.

With the OD switch ON, when I step down on the accelerator, the OD
disengages.
With OD engaged, turning the OD switch OFF causes the OD to disengage
instantly without stepping on the accelerator. I assume (oops!) that the
problem is electrical. Which component, or combination of components, is
most
likely to be the culprit?

TIA

(The Other) Len
Vacaville,  California,  USA
1967 3000 MKIII, HBJ8L39031

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Mon Oct 22 18:27:06 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 19:27:06 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] OD Problem
References: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKKEKCDGAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>
Message-ID: <004b01c8150b$7176e520$6401a8c0@toshibauser>

" Must be a rash of failing relays out there.  I've just received a new one 
from Moss to replace mine."
>
> Steve Byers

I am having the exact symptoms described after just getting "everything" 
sorted out and working properly on the car the overdrive went wonky. 
Actually I hope it is the relay, don't wasn't looking forward to tearing off 
the tunnel.

Regards,

Greg Lemon
54 BN1

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Mon Oct 22 20:06:07 2007
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Leonard  Hartnett)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 19:06:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] OD Problem
In-Reply-To: <004b01c8150b$7176e520$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
References: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKKEKCDGAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>
	<004b01c8150b$7176e520$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
Message-ID: <0442A2AA72154C0FBFF1D2887A8D0C30@LeonardPC>

"...wasn't looking forward to tearing off
> the tunnel..."


Exactly why I thought I would ask first.  Don't know how complicated on a 
BN1, but it is a pain in the butt on a BJ8 (literally and figuratively).

(The Other) Len
Vacaville,  California,  USA
1967 3000 MKIII, HBJ8L39031

From gardner5 at comcast.net  Mon Oct 22 20:41:20 2007
From: gardner5 at comcast.net (gardner5 at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 02:41:20 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Paint
Message-ID: <102320070241.2671.471D5F500009322A00000A6F22070029539D0A020B9D0E090A0B0106@comcast.net>

Next week paint finally goes on my 56 BN2!!  I'm using a single stage and am still looking for a solid answer on the correct paint code for Old English White, since two are listed (ICI#:  2122 and 2379), and I'm trying to keep things as absolutely correct as I can.  Thanks in advance for all the help.

Joel
BN2

From shop at justbrits.com  Mon Oct 22 21:28:41 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2007 22:28:41 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] OD Problem
References: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKKEKCDGAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com><004b01c8150b$7176e520$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
	<0442A2AA72154C0FBFF1D2887A8D0C30@LeonardPC>
Message-ID: <00f401c81524$cfccca90$6601a8c0@actualshop>

<<but it is a pain in the butt on a BJ8 (literally and figuratively).>>

Another reason BJ-7s are THE best, Len!!!!  (and YES I have had the
"enjoyment" of having to do the job on far to many BJ-8s<VBG>)!!

Signed:

Hortense THE Healey ('63 BJ-7 wearing STD ILL Plates    AH BJ 7    )

From rkorn at simnet.is  Tue Oct 23 02:44:25 2007
From: rkorn at simnet.is (Richard Korn)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 08:44:25 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Paint
References: <102320070241.2671.471D5F500009322A00000A6F22070029539D0A020B9D0E090A0B0106@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000301c81550$ea80b690$4001a8c0@velad>

Joel,

According to Donald Pikovnik4s guide to Historic colors for the Healeys, 
ICI-2379 is correct for the big Healeys and he states that ICI-2122 was 
introduced c. 1967 for the sprites.(see pg 8.)

Richard
BN2


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <gardner5 at comcast.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 2:41 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Paint


> Next week paint finally goes on my 56 BN2!!  I'm using a single stage and 
> am still looking for a solid answer on the correct paint code for Old 
> English White, since two are listed (ICI#:  2122 and 2379), and I'm trying 
> to keep things as absolutely correct as I can.  Thanks in advance for all 
> the help.
>
> Joel
> BN2
> _______________________________________________
> rkorn at simnet.is
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Tue Oct 23 05:34:27 2007
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 12:34:27 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] OD Problem
Message-ID: <000d01c81568$ab8e2220$0200a8c0@simonalexa>

A resend due to so-called "bounce" issues.
SDL


From: Simon Lachlan [mailto:simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk] 
Sent: 23 October 2007 12:29
To: 'BJ8Healeys'; 'Healey Mail List'
Subject: RE: [Healeys] OD Problem

Yes, it sounds just like relay problems.
Yes, there does seem to be a load of crappy relays out there.
I opened my last defective one up and found it to be suffering from the
apparent signs of damp.......evident moisture/condensation and corrosion on
points which were not worn and properly gapped, it seemed to me.
I cleaned them up and did the appropriate tests and it worked fine and still
does. Touch wood!
I resealed the relay with a bit of plumber's goo, put them back in the car
and all's well per above.
To digress somewhat.....in my time I've imported loads of stuff from the Far
East, wherever that is, and have found moisture to be a big issue from time
to time. The shipping containers (20 ft and 40 ft) seem to absorb damp in
the tropics and then force the moisture into everything when the ship goes
through the hot/dry areas. Top deck cargo is particularly vulnerable. I've
had stuff arrive in 40 ft containers where the double corrugated cardboard
boxes had collapsed into a ghastly heap from this process....all of which is
a long winded way of saying: "look inside the unit for damp and clean it
up!"
It seems silly to refer to testing the relay and stop there, particularly in
light of recent correspondence. So:-
"Operation of the relay coil can be checked by applying 12 volts to
terminals W1 & W2.  If the coil operates, there should be solid continuity
between terminals C1 & C2.  The relay itself can be opened by removing its
cover. The contacts can be carefully cleaned. Or the relay itself may be
defective & not repairable". (This latter paragraph is not my own
originally, but I can't recall its author to whom I mean no disrespect in
quoting him without attribution).
Simon.

From tomfelts at earthlink.net  Tue Oct 23 05:50:11 2007
From: tomfelts at earthlink.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 07:50:11 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] OD Problem
Message-ID: <380-2200710223115011328@earthlink.net>

I received a bounce cancellation notice last week, but still get messages
from the list.  What's with that?




> [Original Message]
> From: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk>
> To: Healey Mail List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 10/23/2007 9:34:31 AM
> Subject: [Healeys] OD Problem
>
> A resend due to so-called "bounce" issues.
> SDL
>
>
> From: Simon Lachlan [mailto:simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk] 
> Sent: 23 October 2007 12:29
> To: 'BJ8Healeys'; 'Healey Mail List'
> Subject: RE: [Healeys] OD Problem
>
> Yes, it sounds just like relay problems.
> Yes, there does seem to be a load of crappy relays out there.
> I opened my last defective one up and found it to be suffering from the
> apparent signs of damp.......evident moisture/condensation and corrosion
on
> points which were not worn and properly gapped, it seemed to me.
> I cleaned them up and did the appropriate tests and it worked fine and
still
> does. Touch wood!
> I resealed the relay with a bit of plumber's goo, put them back in the car
> and all's well per above.
> To digress somewhat.....in my time I've imported loads of stuff from the
Far
> East, wherever that is, and have found moisture to be a big issue from
time
> to time. The shipping containers (20 ft and 40 ft) seem to absorb damp in
> the tropics and then force the moisture into everything when the ship goes
> through the hot/dry areas. Top deck cargo is particularly vulnerable. I've
> had stuff arrive in 40 ft containers where the double corrugated cardboard
> boxes had collapsed into a ghastly heap from this process....all of which
is
> a long winded way of saying: "look inside the unit for damp and clean it
> up!"
> It seems silly to refer to testing the relay and stop there, particularly
in
> light of recent correspondence. So:-
> "Operation of the relay coil can be checked by applying 12 volts to
> terminals W1 & W2.  If the coil operates, there should be solid continuity
> between terminals C1 & C2.  The relay itself can be opened by removing its
> cover. The contacts can be carefully cleaned. Or the relay itself may be
> defective & not repairable". (This latter paragraph is not my own
> originally, but I can't recall its author to whom I mean no disrespect in
> quoting him without attribution).
> Simon.
> _______________________________________________
> tomfelts at earthlink.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From dcongleton at embarqmail.com  Tue Oct 23 06:15:19 2007
From: dcongleton at embarqmail.com (Dallas Congleton)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 08:15:19 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Paint
References: <102320070241.2671.471D5F500009322A00000A6F22070029539D0A020B9D0E090A0B0106@comcast.net>
	<000301c81550$ea80b690$4001a8c0@velad>
Message-ID: <004201c8156e$616fc580$0201a8c0@your4dacd0ea75>

Richard this information is in the "what it is worth" category, but trying
to match the original codes is an exercise in futility. I just went through
this with a restoration and gave every effort to obtain the "original"
color. After getting the original paint codes, I faced translation from
1950s English paint manufactures  to current suppliers, such as DuPont or
PPG and trying to convert through several evolutions of old paint code
books.
This proved to be pointless, because the paint materials have changed so
much , especially the base. Now we have urethane paints, a completely
different chemistry.
I went through all the conversion possible, with the help of a friend that
owns an automotive paint business. Using single stage DuPont paint. ( I
don't think a normal counter man would have been so patient)  we mixed a
sample batch- not even close.-
The original color was Ivory, also called Cream-, which is an off white with
a yellow or biscuit hue. The sample that came out was a greenish yellow with
a slight luminous or iridescent look like modern cars. I assure you he knew
what he was doing.
Back to square one- I took a piece of the inner dash that had original paint
on it and we took out the books with the color chips and started looking.
We found a color in a Chrysler series that was very close. He mixed a
sample, doctored it a tad, and gave me the new formula. Matches correctly
and has the correct look for the period of the car.
You may have better luck with a white, but I suggest you pay for a pint
sample, paint up an inner panel or something,  and look at it in different
lighting conditions. The urethane white has an appliance look to it that may
have to considered.

My opinion is that the paints have evolved so much, the original formula
codes are really of little use.

Dallas
1953 MGTD
1968 BJ8


---- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Korn" <rkorn at simnet.is>
To: <gardner5 at comcast.net>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 4:44 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paint


> Joel,
>
> According to Donald Pikovnik4s guide to Historic colors for the Healeys,
> ICI-2379 is correct for the big Healeys and he states that ICI-2122 was
> introduced c. 1967 for the sprites.(see pg 8.)
>
> Richard
> BN2

From robert.w.johnson at charter.net  Tue Oct 23 08:11:11 2007
From: robert.w.johnson at charter.net (Bob Johnson)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 10:11:11 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Paint
References: <102320070241.2671.471D5F500009322A00000A6F22070029539D0A020B9D0E090A0B0106@comcast.net><000301c81550$ea80b690$4001a8c0@velad>
	<004201c8156e$616fc580$0201a8c0@your4dacd0ea75>
Message-ID: <004a01c8157e$909a6800$021919ac@valued28addca9>

...

> The original color was Ivory, also called Cream-, which is an off white 
> with
> a yellow or biscuit hue. >

Went to Eurofest at the BWM plant near Spartanburg SC Sat. There were maybe 
70-80 Healeys there. Lots of them were White (OEW, I suppose), and they were 
in many different shades of White. Some were yellowish, some had the biscuit 
shading, many were a cream color. I would go so far as to surmise that OEW 
was probably many different shades coming off the paint line at manufacture 
due to variations in the different "batches" of paint from the manufacturer. 
Even buying modern house paints you need to be careful to make sure that all 
of you paint cans have the same number on the lid or that you mix them all 
together before you paint.

BTW, met Bill Emerson there with his spectacular Westland. Bought his book. 
Highly reccommend the book. NFI, but happy.

Bob Johnson
BJ8 

From healey at salisbury.net  Tue Oct 23 09:17:50 2007
From: healey at salisbury.net (Healey)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 11:17:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Paint
References: <102320070241.2671.471D5F500009322A00000A6F22070029539D0A020B9D0E090A0B0106@comcast.net><000301c81550$ea80b690$4001a8c0@velad><004201c8156e$616fc580$0201a8c0@your4dacd0ea75>
	<004a01c8157e$909a6800$021919ac@valued28addca9>
Message-ID: <000c01c81587$e07c9b50$6400a8c0@CARLHOME1>

Hi Bob and the list. I also attended the Euro show and they announced that 
the Healey attendance was over 100. Last year the Triumph Marque had 102. 
Considering the difference in the base number of each marque available, we 
did an exceptional job of getting the Healeys out. Bill Emerson's Westland 
won a sponsors award. For the first time they had over 500 cars and shut 
down registrations for lack of room.

Carl Brown

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Johnson" <robert.w.johnson at charter.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 10:11 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paint


> ...
>
>> The original color was Ivory, also called Cream-, which is an off white
>> with
>> a yellow or biscuit hue. >
>
> Went to Eurofest at the BWM plant near Spartanburg SC Sat. There were 
> maybe
> 70-80 Healeys there. Lots of them were White (OEW, I suppose), and they 
> were
> in many different shades of White. Some were yellowish, some had the 
> biscuit
> shading, many were a cream color. I would go so far as to surmise that OEW
> was probably many different shades coming off the paint line at 
> manufacture
> due to variations in the different "batches" of paint from the 
> manufacturer.
> Even buying modern house paints you need to be careful to make sure that 
> all
> of you paint cans have the same number on the lid or that you mix them all
> together before you paint.
>
> BTW, met Bill Emerson there with his spectacular Westland. Bought his 
> book.
> Highly reccommend the book. NFI, but happy.
>
> Bob Johnson
> BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> healey at salisbury.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.6/1086 - Release Date: 
> 10/22/2007 7:57 PM

From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk  Tue Oct 23 10:38:30 2007
From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 17:38:30 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Two fuel related little tips
Message-ID: <000901c81593$25199af0$0200a8c0@simonalexa>

You will gather that I have an SU fuel pump...

Last year I fitted a new "123" electronic distributor to my MkII BT7. It
has/had performed faultlessly I didn't/don't regret its installation.

However, when my car died on me the other day near the end of a 150+/- trip
I did suspect an ignition failure. Not quite sure why..maybe reverse
psychology.think of the most obvious thing (fuel) and pursue the opposite
course. Usually works with Healeys.

However, again, I was loathe to condemn something which had performed so
well and which I did not have a clue how to test. So...and here's the first
tip:-

If you have this intermittent loss of power type fault, carry the
appropriate tools with which to open a fuel float bowl on a carb. As the
brute dies, switch off the ignition and leave it off. Then go check the
float bowl. If it's empty that's your problem..fuel delivery. I've three
carbs on my car and I checked the front bowl when it died by the roadside.
It was almost, but not quite, empty which almost, but not quite, convinced
me. Later, I had the great good fortune to have it do it again whilst
sitting in the back yard at home. (Don't these things usually happen in the
most inconvenient place? Half way up the Eiger? Or just going up the ramp
into a ferry?) The rear bowl was bone dry which did convince me.

(Hoped for cure..I did replace the points and diaphragm last year(ish) so
I've opened up the pump and checked it all over. It all looked OK, but I've
given it an extra bolt's worth of turn on the "throw-over" adjustment. 4
bolt's worth, per the manual, might not always suffice and the problem tends
to show up when the pump is hot, or so I've gathered from the gurus over the
years. Second element of cure involves crossing fingers, beer, prayers etc).
[I have Michael Salter to thank for the float bowl idea as one of his many
suggestions in my "Sudden loss of power" thread about 3 yrs ago.]

Second tip:-

I find fuel pump removal to be a tiresome affair. Mostly related to the way
my back seats are screwed down. Not as easy to remove as I'd like. (But, my
God, they're secure!). So, I'd taken off the wheel and was gazing at the
offending object when I had what we used to call a BGO (Blinding Glimpse of
the Obvious) in the British army. Why not leave the valves half of the pump
in situ and remove the electrics half by unscrewing all the bolts? Usually
there is a snag when trying something apparently easy in a Healey, but this
worked like a dream. Also avoids messing with those wretched fuel line
attachments where they have to be lined up just so and not over tightened or
remotely under tightened etcetc.

That's it.

(Haven't road tested it, so am not too smug yet. But at least I've wasted
less time than usual).

Simon.

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Oct 23 13:13:18 2007
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 12:13:18 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey on History Channel International
Message-ID: <54DA60AE-2274-49F9-9DB0-95D2063D5C77@sbcglobal.net>

o?<

o?<
Tune In:
Tuesday, October 30 @ 10am ET/PT

o?<
In-depth look at the British roadster that sparked the US passion for
sports cars. The Austin Healy 3000 was the sexy master of the road
that rallied through the 1960s and actually grew out of a desire to
build up the post-World War II British economy.   TVPG  cc







David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

From prattri at msn.com  Tue Oct 23 15:23:56 2007
From: prattri at msn.com (Richard Pratt)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 17:23:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Bolt Codes
In-Reply-To: <001901c814b3$1f1a7bf0$6500a8c0@simsoffice>
Message-ID: <BAYC1-PASMTP06D27AF4A4385A271DB73CBD9B0@CEZ.ICE>

Thank to all who helped me out with info.
Richard

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+prattri=msn.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+prattri=msn.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John
Sims
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 9:55 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Bolt Codes

The Bolt Codes as discussed on the list the past day or so can now be found
on my web site at:

http://www.healey6.com/Technical/BMC-boltcodes.xls

and

http://www.healey6.com/Technical/boltcodes2.xls

They are in Excel format.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com

 
_______________________________________________
prattri at msn.com 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From dwhite4949 at wowway.com  Tue Oct 23 17:32:41 2007
From: dwhite4949 at wowway.com (Daniel and Diane White)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 19:32:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Trunion question
Message-ID: <471E8499.2020909@wowway.com>

Hello Listers,
Anyone know what size the small bolt and nut are that are used in the 
trunions that attach the choke cables to the choke levers on a tri-carb 
with HS4's?  I know they are not the same size.
Thanks,
Dan White
1962 BN7 Mk II

From mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net  Tue Oct 23 17:27:38 2007
From: mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net (Mark and Kathy)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 19:27:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] OD Problem
References: <9B8D0F32DC3640C7896FCB383E59F508@LeonardPC>
	<06DE9B9D-3F04-45A8-B15C-3A7BCF796537@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <003401c815ce$fb0e6510$6d328304@markl946cfrd7q>

Len,   There should be some adjustment info in the   archives that should 
help.

Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Nock" <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
To: "Leonard Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Cc: "Healey Mail List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 7:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD Problem


> Faulty relay.
>
>
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> Stockton Ca 95205
> 209-948-8767

From dwhite4949 at wowway.com  Tue Oct 23 17:52:01 2007
From: dwhite4949 at wowway.com (Daniel and Diane White)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 19:52:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Trunion (cable stop) question
Message-ID: <471E8921.80002@wowway.com>

Sorry- Re my trunion question...  think the correct term for that part 
is the "cable stop".

From schauss at worldnet.att.net  Tue Oct 23 18:27:25 2007
From: schauss at worldnet.att.net (Peter Schauss)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 20:27:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Computer Virus - CNN confirms and Snopes too
In-Reply-To: <BAY108-W6185B195DA4AEEBA79B6EC09A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20071024002751.4F664187A01@autox.team.net>

I had a similar experience with MacAfee when I downloaded the upgrade after
the "free" copy which came with my computer expired.  Since the product came
with a money-back guarantee, I asked for a refund and installed Norton.

- Peter Schauss

> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+schauss=worldnet.att.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+schauss=worldnet.att.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf
> Of richard mayor
> Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 2:04 AM
> To: shop at justbrits.com
> Cc: healeys
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Computer Virus - CNN confirms and Snopes too
> 
> Hi Listers:  I bought the latest MaAfee protection for both my office and
> home
> computer about two months ago. Both slowed to a crawl - more like a snails
> pace. I googled the scenario and learned I was not the only one to
> experience
> this problem. After much consideration and thought (alot about viruses) I
> uninstalled it from both home and office computer  - a loss of around $70.
> It
> was like going from dialup to highspeed.  I may not have "protection" but
> it
> sure is nice having a computer that responds quickly.  Richard Mayor
>  > From: shop at justbrits.com> To: healeys at autox.team.net> Date: Sun, 21 Oct
> 2007 21:09:42 -0500> Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Computer Virus - CNN
> confirms
> and Snopes too> > OLDER than an Austin 7, Mark.> > And if any of you are
> "relying" on "McAfee" for "protection", may the computer> gods help you
> (POS).> > Ed> _______________________________________________>
> mayorrichard at hotmail.com > > Healeys at autox.team.net>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> _________________________________________________________________
> Boo! Scare away worms, viruses and so much more! Try Windows Live OneCare!
> http://onecare.live.com/standard/en-
> us/purchase/trial.aspx?s_cid=wl_hotmailne
> ws
> _______________________________________________
> schauss at worldnet.att.net
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From Kendall.Freese at aerojet.com  Tue Oct 23 18:42:18 2007
From: Kendall.Freese at aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 17:42:18 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 roll-up mechanism
References: <471A6083.2020004@cox.net><ff59076c0710201813j10c3d2c0l95a9ef4eb94fac6c@mail.gmail.com><471BC50E.2020701@cox.net>
	<471BC685.5030301@cox.net>
Message-ID: <1B3BD9CCDD89084C9CC405C3258017F5013A3C66@SACMAIL1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

We discussed this some time ago that the nomenclature in the parts book is
wrong. Install them so that the spring helps you lift the window.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

From alan at andysnet.net  Tue Oct 23 20:30:34 2007
From: alan at andysnet.net (Alan Schultz)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 21:30:34 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Healey on History Channel International
In-Reply-To: <54DA60AE-2274-49F9-9DB0-95D2063D5C77@sbcglobal.net>
References: <54DA60AE-2274-49F9-9DB0-95D2063D5C77@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <471EAE4A.2070604@andysnet.net>

Is it 10am Eastern Time or 10am Pacific Time?

David Nock wrote:
> o?<
>
> o?<
> Tune In:
> Tuesday, October 30 @ 10am ET/PT

From ricksnover at earthlink.net  Tue Oct 23 20:52:20 2007
From: ricksnover at earthlink.net (Rick Snover)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 19:52:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey on History Channel International
In-Reply-To: <471EAE4A.2070604@andysnet.net>
References: <54DA60AE-2274-49F9-9DB0-95D2063D5C77@sbcglobal.net>
	<471EAE4A.2070604@andysnet.net>
Message-ID: <6.2.0.14.2.20071023195130.02ff2b08@pop.earthlink.net>

At 07:30 PM 10/23/2007, Alan Schultz wrote:
>Is it 10am Eastern Time or 10am Pacific Time?
>David Nock wrote:
> > Tuesday, October 30 @ 10am ET/PT

I believe it's both. Not sure about the Central and Mountain zones though. 

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Oct 23 22:44:24 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 12:44:24 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] So Cal Fires
Message-ID: <ff59076c0710232144t5a1705ecrae7edbd240b27c34@mail.gmail.com>

I just found out one of my employee's parents lost their home of 40
years in So Cal.  Sounds pretty bad - I hope all on this list are ok.

Alan

-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Oct 23 22:56:01 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 12:56:01 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Computer Virus - CNN confirms and Snopes too
In-Reply-To: <20071024002751.4F664187A01@autox.team.net>
References: <BAY108-W6185B195DA4AEEBA79B6EC09A0@phx.gbl>
	<20071024002751.4F664187A01@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0710232156p2dad1d95sd19b508c3f02ff33@mail.gmail.com>

The other mega-kluge for software is Microsoft's Business Contact
Manager which comes with Outlook.  If you install it, it will make
emailing with Outlook impossible because the program is better at
freezing up the computer than actually keeping track of your contacts.
 But hey, those 10,000 software programmers in Bangalore are really
cheap and cost effective!




On 10/24/07, Peter Schauss <schauss at worldnet.att.net> wrote:
> I had a similar experience with MacAfee when I downloaded the upgrade after
> the "free" copy which came with my computer expired.  Since the product came
> with a money-back guarantee, I asked for a refund and installed Norton.
>
> - Peter Schauss
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: healeys-bounces+schauss=worldnet.att.net at autox.team.net
> > [mailto:healeys-bounces+schauss=worldnet.att.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf
> > Of richard mayor
> > Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 2:04 AM
> > To: shop at justbrits.com
> > Cc: healeys
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Computer Virus - CNN confirms and Snopes too
> >
> > Hi Listers:  I bought the latest MaAfee protection for both my office and
> > home
> > computer about two months ago. Both slowed to a crawl - more like a snails
> > pace. I googled the scenario and learned I was not the only one to
> > experience
> > this problem. After much consideration and thought (alot about viruses) I
> > uninstalled it from both home and office computer  - a loss of around $70.
> > It
> > was like going from dialup to highspeed.  I may not have "protection" but
> > it
> > sure is nice having a computer that responds quickly.  Richard Mayor
> >  > From: shop at justbrits.com> To: healeys at autox.team.net> Date: Sun, 21 Oct
> > 2007 21:09:42 -0500> Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Computer Virus - CNN
> > confirms
> > and Snopes too> > OLDER than an Austin 7, Mark.> > And if any of you are
> > "relying" on "McAfee" for "protection", may the computer> gods help you
> > (POS).> > Ed> _______________________________________________>
> > mayorrichard at hotmail.com > > Healeys at autox.team.net>
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Boo! Scare away worms, viruses and so much more! Try Windows Live OneCare!
> > http://onecare.live.com/standard/en-
> > us/purchase/trial.aspx?s_cid=wl_hotmailne
> > ws
> > _______________________________________________
> > schauss at worldnet.att.net
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From rotaryman at cox.net  Tue Oct 23 23:33:42 2007
From: rotaryman at cox.net (patrick harris)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 22:33:42 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100 m fire san diego
Message-ID: <001101c815ff$71cf3d70$6401a8c0@FRYS>

I freaked out this morning when I realized that my bn2 100 m would not survive
if our house caught so moved car out into drive way with the help of my son
then went to subway to find some blue sky and no smoke up in la jolla.  My
wife freaked and wanted to know what had I done this morning that was useful
for society considering 500 homes had burned around us, I was dumbfounded and
said nothing I quess as I had not got the rest of the parts out of the attic.
What do you do home owners will not cover this car, and insurance does not
consider a non restored vehicle acceptable.  I have some coverage I am sure
through home owners but not enough to pay for the money I have put into this
m.  The problem with restorations is  they are a pain in the ass. thanks pat

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Oct 23 23:40:57 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 13:40:57 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] factory numbers, etc.
In-Reply-To: <001501c813f7$614a0570$0200a8c0@simonalexa>
References: <047401c812cf$49d47610$5201a8c0@Jim>
	<ff59076c0710201819x24ed885boef5c71dc690f5df2@mail.gmail.com>
	<W$2CiECgAzGHFwmI@jharper.demon.co.uk>
	<001501c813f7$614a0570$0200a8c0@simonalexa>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0710232240p65476150r790f9584d0b2d51c@mail.gmail.com>

I have a factory gold seal A90 gearbox with about 5K miles on it ...
Hen's teeth!!!!



On 10/21/07, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk> wrote:
> Yes,
> I never saw one that wasn't gold.
> When I was a kid(?) we all had pretty dodgy motors, mostly minis, and we
> used to put Gold(coloured)seal engines in them as and when we blew the
> originals. Usually put in bigger engines than we started with.
> My 3000's gearbox is a) gold and b) has a plate on it to the effect that
> it's a genuine rebuilt item. But I can't remember if it's a factory Goldseal
> without looking at it.
> Simon
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+simon.lachlan=homecall.co.uk at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+simon.lachlan=homecall.co.uk at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of John Harper
> Sent: 21 October 2007 11:55
> To: Alan Seigrist
> Cc: healeys
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] factory numbers, etc.
>
> Alan
>
> I was based at BMC Service Cowley for a while in the early 1960s and can
> be 99.9% certain that Gold Seal Engines were exactly that. To have not
> painted them gold would have caused utter confusion.
>
> Regards
>
> >James -
> >
> >A few very early 100s had their engines painted a marine grey/blue
> >color, and if I'm not mistaken factory replacement "gold seal" engines
> >often were blue in color.
> >
> >Alan
> >
> >On 10/20/07, James  Shope <healeymanjim at hansencc.net> wrote:
> >> does anyone know for certain whether the factory ever painted the
> >> engine/transmission/od a blue color, and if not, why would a restoration
> shop
> >> do it?   healeymanjim
> >_______________________________________________
> >ah at jharper.demon.co.uk
> >
> >Healeys at autox.team.net
> >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> --
> John Harper
> _______________________________________________
> simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From ah3000me at gmail.com  Wed Oct 24 04:55:09 2007
From: ah3000me at gmail.com (T W)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 06:55:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] British car garages in Columbia, SC
Message-ID: <d9b7a14d0710240355u2d4a2b3ci1755f0561348308f@mail.gmail.com>

Are there any shops specializing in British cars that you would
recommend in the Columbia, SC area?

thanks,

Tom

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Oct 24 06:44:32 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 20:44:32 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] 100 m fire san diego
In-Reply-To: <001101c815ff$71cf3d70$6401a8c0@FRYS>
References: <001101c815ff$71cf3d70$6401a8c0@FRYS>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0710240544t69554475k1fbe465f9bc17dff@mail.gmail.com>

Pat -

Your car, if parked on the property, should be covered by your
houshold fire if the house burns down.

If you want more security, you can go with Hagerty classic car
insurance - they insure project cars for comprehensive.

Alan

On 10/24/07, patrick harris <rotaryman at cox.net> wrote:
> I freaked out this morning when I realized that my bn2 100 m would not survive
> if our house caught so moved car out into drive way with the help of my son
> then went to subway to find some blue sky and no smoke up in la jolla.  My
> wife freaked and wanted to know what had I done this morning that was useful
> for society considering 500 homes had burned around us, I was dumbfounded and
> said nothing I quess as I had not got the rest of the parts out of the attic.
> What do you do home owners will not cover this car, and insurance does not
> consider a non restored vehicle acceptable.  I have some coverage I am sure
> through home owners but not enough to pay for the money I have put into this
> m.  The problem with restorations is  they are a pain in the ass. thanks pat

From Warthodson at aol.com  Wed Oct 24 07:00:50 2007
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 09:00:50 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Paint
Message-ID: <ccf.1ba4a40a.34509c02@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/23/2007 10:14:01 AM Central Daylight Time, 
healey at salisbury.net writes:

Some were yellowish, some had the 
> biscuit
> shading, many were a cream color. I would go so far as to surmise that OEW
> was probably many different shades coming off the paint line at 
> manufacture

The variation you saw was probably due to individual choises when they had 
their car restored/repainted (either the owner of the car or the paint shop) 
rather that an indication of the variation of the original paint. 
Gary Hodson 



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From ahbn6 at optonline.net  Wed Oct 24 07:22:02 2007
From: ahbn6 at optonline.net (John Sims)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 09:22:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] So Cal Fires
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0710232144t5a1705ecrae7edbd240b27c34@mail.gmail.com>
References: <ff59076c0710232144t5a1705ecrae7edbd240b27c34@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00d301c81640$ddcd5ac0$6500a8c0@simsoffice>

Two of my youngest sons employees have lost their houses. He lives in
Redondo Beach so the fires will have to go through a lot of houses and
buildings to reach him.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com
 


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Alan Seigrist
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 12:44 AM
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] So Cal Fires

I just found out one of my employee's parents lost their home of 40
years in So Cal.  Sounds pretty bad - I hope all on this list are ok.

Alan

--
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8
_______________________________________________
ahbn6 at optonline.net

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From loftusdesign at cox.net  Wed Oct 24 09:37:50 2007
From: loftusdesign at cox.net (John Loftus)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 08:37:50 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Re: FW: Computer Virus - CNN confirms and Snopes
 too
Message-ID: <471F66CE.5060007@cox.net>

On the discussion of Virus Software, I was using a previous version of 
Computer Associates EZ-Trust Anti-Virus for quite a few years with no 
problems. Upgraded to their Internet Security Suite '06 and had major 
slow downs on three computers. Tried the fixes that their customer 
support provided but the software was still a resource hog. Got a refund 
and have been using AVG free for virus protection, XoftSpySE for 
anti-spyware (not free) and Windows Firewall (included with XP/Vista). I 
also use a program called The Ultimate Troubleshooter (TUT) which lets 
you see and control Tasks, Services, Startups and System info and 
provides technical information on each item so you can decide what to 
leave on or turn off. This really helps with start up speed and keeps as 
much RAM and CPU free for actual computing instead of keeping other 
programs 'idling' in the background. I paid for this program too but I 
think there are some similar programs out there that are free.

Cheers,
John

From ronfineesq at earthlink.net  Wed Oct 24 10:19:31 2007
From: ronfineesq at earthlink.net (Ronald A. Fine)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 09:19:31 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Computer Virus
Message-ID: <6744603.1193242771789.JavaMail.root@elwamui-little.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

As long as we are discussing computer virus software has anyone used Trend-Micro Anti Virus software??  I am dumping Norton which has not blocked the virus that continue to bug my daughter's computer.  

Ron Fine
61BN7
66MGB

From quenty at ntelos.net  Wed Oct 24 10:39:40 2007
From: quenty at ntelos.net (Dave Schweninger)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 12:39:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Trunion question
In-Reply-To: <471E8499.2020909@wowway.com>
References: <471E8499.2020909@wowway.com>
Message-ID: <3D032BDA-B906-4277-A783-273EF8C0EED5@ntelos.net>

Dan
It's not just a bolt and nut. the "nut " part has a cross drilled  
hole for the cable. which is arranged so that you can tighten the  
screw, which clamps the cable and still allows the "nut" to swivel in  
the trunnion. See Moss P43 #130. They are smaller than the 2 carb  
ones. I have 3 of the wrong ones.
Dave

On Oct 23, 2007, at 7:32 PM, Daniel and Diane White wrote:

> Hello Listers,
> Anyone know what size the small bolt and nut are that are used in the
> trunions that attach the choke cables to the choke levers on a tri- 
> carb
> with HS4's?  I know they are not the same size.
> Thanks,
> Dan White
> 1962 BN7 Mk II
> _______________________________________________
> quenty at ntelos.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From bighealey at charter.net  Wed Oct 24 11:25:39 2007
From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 10:25:39 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Re: FW: Computer Virus - CNN confirms and
 Snopes too
In-Reply-To: <471F66CE.5060007@cox.net>
Message-ID: <20071024132539.V1CRJ.451943.root@fepweb08>

John,

One major downfall with many virus and spam blocker type software packages is email loss.

In other words you receive an email and the over zealous software blocks WANTED email.  Although it is advertised to block UNwanted emails.

This is especially true of some Internet providers bundled anti-spam gateways which block but do not notify the intended recipient that his mail has been censored, quarantined or deleted. (Ever wonder where that email went?)

The art of detecting what is and what is not a virus or spam is a black art at best.

Security is, and will always be, a trade off between usability and risk mitigation.

Tracy (CISSP and amateur wrench)

---- John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net> wrote: 
> On the discussion of Virus Software, I was using a previous version of 
> Computer Associates EZ-Trust Anti-Virus for quite a few years with no 
> problems. Upgraded to their Internet Security Suite '06 and had major 
> slow downs on three computers. Tried the fixes that their customer 
> support provided but the software was still a resource hog. Got a refund 
> and have been using AVG free for virus protection, XoftSpySE for 
> anti-spyware (not free) and Windows Firewall (included with XP/Vista). I 
> also use a program called The Ultimate Troubleshooter (TUT) which lets 
> you see and control Tasks, Services, Startups and System info and 
> provides technical information on each item so you can decide what to 
> leave on or turn off. This really helps with start up speed and keeps as 
> much RAM and CPU free for actual computing instead of keeping other 
> programs 'idling' in the background. I paid for this program too but I 
> think there are some similar programs out there that are free.
> 
> Cheers,
> John
> _______________________________________________
> bighealey at charter.net 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Wed Oct 24 11:32:33 2007
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 13:32:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Moss bumpers
Message-ID: <471F81B1.2010700@comcast.net>

I have purchased new bumpers for my BT7 from Moss and the rear bumper 
hole centerlines measure 6 3/8" on each side compared my original at 
7".  Even though the bracket holes are slotted, there is no way they can 
accommodate 5/8".  Is Moss quality this bad or did they send the wrong 
bumper?
I haven't checked the front one yet.  I'm half afraid of what I might find.
TIA
Charlie
'62 BT7

From dwhite4949 at wowway.com  Wed Oct 24 11:38:49 2007
From: dwhite4949 at wowway.com (Daniel and Diane White)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 13:38:49 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Trunion question
Message-ID: <471F8329.1030407@wowway.com>

Listers,
I located the correct trunion for the tri-carb and the male and female 
parts are both 7/32".  Thanks to Dave for the input.
Dan White
1962 BN7 Mk II

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Wed Oct 24 11:48:45 2007
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 10:48:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey on History Channel International
In-Reply-To: <6.2.0.14.2.20071023195130.02ff2b08@pop.earthlink.net>
References: <54DA60AE-2274-49F9-9DB0-95D2063D5C77@sbcglobal.net>
	<471EAE4A.2070604@andysnet.net>
	<6.2.0.14.2.20071023195130.02ff2b08@pop.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <C8C0BDF4-42E5-4536-8433-1B4099F9CA87@sbcglobal.net>

The show is actually on several times that day. Check their Web site  
the time in your zone. Here Pacific time it is on at 7am and 1pm

http://www.historyinternational.com/global/listings/listings.jsp? 
fromYear=2007&fromMonth=9&fromDate=30&NetwCode=HCI&timezone=4&View=Daily 
&


On Oct 23, 2007, at 7:52 PM, Rick Snover wrote:

> At 07:30 PM 10/23/2007, Alan Schultz wrote:
>> Is it 10am Eastern Time or 10am Pacific Time?
>> David Nock wrote:
>>> Tuesday, October 30 @ 10am ET/PT
>
> I believe it's both. Not sure about the Central and Mountain zones  
> though.
> _______________________________________________
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From robert.w.johnson at charter.net  Wed Oct 24 12:01:44 2007
From: robert.w.johnson at charter.net (Bob Johnson)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 14:01:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey on History Channel International
References: <54DA60AE-2274-49F9-9DB0-95D2063D5C77@sbcglobal.net><471EAE4A.2070604@andysnet.net><6.2.0.14.2.20071023195130.02ff2b08@pop.earthlink.net>
	<C8C0BDF4-42E5-4536-8433-1B4099F9CA87@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <00e501c81667$f05a6e40$021919ac@valued28addca9>

I have it scheduled to record. Oddly enough when you are searching for the 
program the show is "Voyages".

Bob Johnson
BJ8




> The show is actually on several times that day. Check their Web site
> the time in your zone. Here Pacific time it is on at 7am and 1pm
>
> http://www.historyinternational.com/global/listings/listings.jsp?
> fromYear=2007&fromMonth=9&fromDate=30&NetwCode=HCI&timezone=4&View=Daily

From david at dleong.org  Wed Oct 24 12:09:17 2007
From: david at dleong.org (David Leong)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 11:09:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey on History Channel International
In-Reply-To: <00e501c81667$f05a6e40$021919ac@valued28addca9>
References: <54DA60AE-2274-49F9-9DB0-95D2063D5C77@sbcglobal.net><471EAE4A.2070604@andysnet.net><6.2.0.14.2.20071023195130.02ff2b08@pop.earthlink.net><C8C0BDF4-42E5-4536-8433-1B4099F9CA87@sbcglobal.net>
	<00e501c81667$f05a6e40$021919ac@valued28addca9>
Message-ID: <000b01c81668$fe0501d0$fa0f0570$@org>

This is a show that has been on many times and is a few years old. Is that
correct? I am pretty sure I recorded this last year sometime.

Dave 

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Johnson
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 11:02 AM
To: David Nock; Rick Snover
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey on History Channel International

I have it scheduled to record. Oddly enough when you are searching for the 
program the show is "Voyages".

Bob Johnson
BJ8




> The show is actually on several times that day. Check their Web site
> the time in your zone. Here Pacific time it is on at 7am and 1pm

From loftusdesign at cox.net  Wed Oct 24 13:09:04 2007
From: loftusdesign at cox.net (John Loftus)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 12:09:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Door strike plate dimensions wanted
Message-ID: <471F9850.2060604@cox.net>

It appears the tapped plate and packing plate for the door strikers has 
been missing since an earlier P.O. restoration. If anyone has these 
items handy and could give me overall dimensions/materials so that I can 
make up a set, would be appreciated (moss numbers 021-347 and 021-349 
for a BJ7-8).  Yes, I could just buy these but with a CNC mill and other 
tools it would be a quick set of parts to make and I'd have more beer 
money :)

I understand the tapped plate must be steel and tapped for the door 
striker screws. Unsure if the packing plate is steel or aluminum. I'm 
guessing this goes inside the rear fender area between the shut face and 
the tapped plate although I found a 1/8" thick aluminum plate stuck 
behind the aluminum shut face finisher .. could this be it?

Cheers,
John

From alan at andysnet.net  Wed Oct 24 17:13:16 2007
From: alan at andysnet.net (Alan Schultz)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 18:13:16 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Healey on History Channel International
In-Reply-To: <00e501c81667$f05a6e40$021919ac@valued28addca9>
References: <54DA60AE-2274-49F9-9DB0-95D2063D5C77@sbcglobal.net><471EAE4A.2070604@andysnet.net><6.2.0.14.2.20071023195130.02ff2b08@pop.earthlink.net>
	<C8C0BDF4-42E5-4536-8433-1B4099F9CA87@sbcglobal.net>
	<00e501c81667$f05a6e40$021919ac@valued28addca9>
Message-ID: <471FD18C.4050301@andysnet.net>

Took me awhile to find it and it appears scheduled for the 30th at 4pm ET/PT
Here's the address:  
<http://www.historyinternational.com/global/listings/episode_detail.jsp?EAirId=17869100&page=listings>

Al Schultz
67HBJ8



Bob Johnson wrote:
> I have it scheduled to record. Oddly enough when you are searching for the 
> program the show is "Voyages".

From Jwhlyadv at aol.com  Wed Oct 24 18:04:03 2007
From: Jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jwhlyadv at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 20:04:03 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] 1962 AH Sprite
Message-ID: <bf2.2087f184.34513773@aol.com>

Here is a  fun little race car located in Louisville, KY. Contact Mike for 
more  information at _mikespence at brownsprinkler.com_ 
(mailto:mikespence at brownsprinkler.com) 
 
Pictures at  _www.seclassic.com_ (http://www.seclassic.com/) 
 
1962 AH  Sprite, 1275 with alum head\header\oil cooler\electric fan\elec 
ign\cam, ribcase  trans, full cage, fuel cell, previous road 
racer\vintage\autocross.   $5,700.00  Mike Spence 502-643-4304 or email 
_mikespence at brownsprinkler.com_ (mailto:mikespence at brownsprinkler.com) 

 
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY





************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From srgrebnetsew at yahoo.com  Wed Oct 24 18:54:25 2007
From: srgrebnetsew at yahoo.com (Bob Westenberg)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 17:54:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Computer Virus
Message-ID: <678915.66122.qm@web35203.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Ron,
I have used about 5-6 anti-virus softwares over the last 15 years.
The
smoothest operation, and easiest to upgrade (which is done automatically),
just about everyday, and takes about 30 seconds is Grisoft / AVG .
http://www.grisoft.com/ 

Believe it or not, it is written out of the Czech
Republic. They seem to write great code, you should see absolutely no
difference in the speed of your operation (except when it is running a full
file check and it keeps your hard drive too busy), and it virtually takes care
of itself.

I wouldn't use anything else. It starts a virus check everyday,
through your entire system, but I right click and cancel it. ONce every couple
of weeks, you can run a full check, and I doubt if it ever finds anything
after its initial scan. 

I recommend it to all my children, and all my
relatives. 

I have no financially interest, other than a satisfied smile of
never having to deal with Norton, Trend, and all the others that comes "free"
with every computer you buy.

Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI


----- Original
Message ----
From: Ronald A. Fine <ronfineesq at earthlink.net>
To: John Loftus
<loftusdesign at cox.net>; "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 12:19:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW:
Computer Virus


As long as we are discussing computer virus software has
anyone used
 Trend-Micro Anti Virus software??  I am dumping Norton which has
not
 blocked the virus that continue to bug my daughter's computer.  

Ron
Fine
61BN7
66MGB
_______________________________________________
srgrebnetsew at yahoo.com 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
Tired of
spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com

From amalin at mac.com  Wed Oct 24 19:57:36 2007
From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 21:57:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Computer Virus
In-Reply-To: <678915.66122.qm@web35203.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <678915.66122.qm@web35203.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <EBF0C00A-4EEB-4ED0-BE7A-3F06C63879FF@mac.com>

Please continue to use the phrase "Computer Virus" in the subject.   
My email filter is using it to send them to the trash.

Thank you,

Al Malin


On Oct 24, 2007, at 8:54 PM, Bob Westenberg wrote:

> Ron,
> I have used about 5-6 anti-virus softwares over the last 15 years.
> The
> smoothest operation, and easiest to upgrade (which is done  
> automatically),
> just about everyday, and takes about 30 seconds is Grisoft / AVG .
> http://www.grisoft.com/
>
> Believe it or not, it is written out of the Czech
> Republic. They seem to write great code, you should see absolutely no
> difference in the speed of your operation (except when it is  
> running a full
> file check and it keeps your hard drive too busy), and it virtually  
> takes care
> of itself.
>
> I wouldn't use anything else. It starts a virus check everyday,
> through your entire system, but I right click and cancel it. ONce  
> every couple
> of weeks, you can run a full check, and I doubt if it ever finds  
> anything
> after its initial scan.
>
> I recommend it to all my children, and all my
> relatives.
>
> I have no financially interest, other than a satisfied smile of
> never having to deal with Norton, Trend, and all the others that  
> comes "free"
> with every computer you buy.
>
> Regards,
> Bob - BJ8
> Milford, MI
>
>
> ----- Original
> Message ----
> From: Ronald A. Fine <ronfineesq at earthlink.net>
> To: John Loftus
> <loftusdesign at cox.net>; "healeys at autox.team.net"  
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 12:19:31 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW:
> Computer Virus
>
>
> As long as we are discussing computer virus software has
> anyone used
>  Trend-Micro Anti Virus software??  I am dumping Norton which has
> not
>  blocked the virus that continue to bug my daughter's computer.
>
> Ron
> Fine
> 61BN7
> 66MGB
> _______________________________________________
> srgrebnetsew at yahoo.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> Tired of
> spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> amalin at mac.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From dwflagg at juno.com  Thu Oct 25 05:34:34 2007
From: dwflagg at juno.com (Douglas W Flagg)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 07:34:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Help!!!!
Message-ID: <20071025.073434.424.0.dwflagg@juno.com>

I downloaded Internet Explorer 7 and it totally screwed up my computer,
so I uninstalled. After doing this all seemed to work, except that I
could no longer upload pictures from my computer to eBay for auctions. I
tried all the usual suspects and nothing has worked. Any ideas??? Thanks
in advance.

From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Thu Oct 25 06:22:51 2007
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 08:22:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Help!!!!
In-Reply-To: <20071025.073434.424.0.dwflagg@juno.com>
References: <20071025.073434.424.0.dwflagg@juno.com>
Message-ID: <a3b984e10710250522x6cb8bcefvd81f04cc24dd4838@mail.gmail.com>

Try Firefox and you will never go back to ie
Download here<http://www.mozilla.com/en-US/firefox/landing/better/?utm_content=0705features&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ppc&utm_campaign=0507lndgpgtest&gclid=CIDXtaiEqo8CFREDWAodRnJFSQ>

http://www.mozilla.com/en-US/firefox/landing/better/?utm_content=0705features&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ppc&utm_campaign=0507lndgpgtest&gclid=CIDXtaiEqo8CFREDWAodRnJFSQ
Rick


On 10/25/07, Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com> wrote:
>
> I downloaded Internet Explorer 7 and it totally screwed up my computer,
> so I uninstalled. After doing this all seemed to work, except that I
> could no longer upload pictures from my computer to eBay for auctions. I
> tried all the usual suspects and nothing has worked. Any ideas??? Thanks
> in advance.
> _______________________________________________
> richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From JNBrashear at garverengineers.com  Thu Oct 25 07:33:42 2007
From: JNBrashear at garverengineers.com (Brashear, Jack, N)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 08:33:42 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] MGA Engine block I.D.
Message-ID: <2D0989D186D44349BE853EE6CFC87AE6036888D7@glitas07.garverinc.local>

Hey Listers, my office pal has a '57 thru '62 composite MGA.  He knows
it's a "1600" engine, but how can he I.D. if it's a 1598 or a 1622 ??
Please help if you can.  There's just gotta be some MGA owners out
there.  Many Thanks,

Jack

From dcongleton at embarqmail.com  Thu Oct 25 08:16:54 2007
From: dcongleton at embarqmail.com (Dallas Congleton)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 10:16:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] MGA Engine block I.D.
References: <2D0989D186D44349BE853EE6CFC87AE6036888D7@glitas07.garverinc.local>
Message-ID: <003a01c81711$b25a62d0$0201a8c0@your4dacd0ea75>

Jack, there is much more activity and MG knowledge shared on the BBS forums- 
You may have to "sign up" but wade your way through the process to the MGA 
section . It will be worth it for your friend to join.
http://www.mgcars.org.uk/index.html


Also here is an excellent web site for MGA owners

  http://mgaguru.com/


Dallas Congleton





----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>; <spridgets at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 9:33 AM
Subject: [Healeys] MGA Engine block I.D.


> Hey Listers, my office pal has a '57 thru '62 composite MGA.  He knows
> it's a "1600" engine, but how can he I.D. if it's a 1598 or a 1622 ??
> Please help if you can.  There's just gotta be some MGA owners out
> there.  Many Thanks,
>
> Jack

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Oct 25 08:19:38 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 09:19:38 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Help!!!!
References: <20071025.073434.424.0.dwflagg@juno.com>
	<a3b984e10710250522x6cb8bcefvd81f04cc24dd4838@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <08a901c81712$13f71830$6601a8c0@actualshop>

<<Try Firefox >>

That is not Doug's problem, Rick!

Doug, what O/S??

From helyjohn at cablespeed.com  Thu Oct 25 13:00:23 2007
From: helyjohn at cablespeed.com (John Snyder)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 11:00:23 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Moss bumpers
References: <471F81B1.2010700@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <001801c81739$4c419400$f030eb42@FRED>

Charlie, I checked the Moss reproduction bumpers on 2 of my Healeys.  Both 
have the holes at 6 5/8".  I was able to make the brackets fit, but had to 
work at it.  Just be thankful the chrome is not all "wave-y".  I have seen 
some really bad ones.

John Snyder


>I have purchased new bumpers for my BT7 from Moss and the rear bumper
> hole centerlines measure 6 3/8" on each side compared my original at
> 7".  Even though the bracket holes are slotted, there is no way they can
> accommodate 5/8".  Is Moss quality this bad or did they send the wrong
> bumper?
> I haven't checked the front one yet.  I'm half afraid of what I might 
> find.
> TIA
> Charlie
> '62 BT7

From ManuelFS at Emparque.pt  Thu Oct 25 12:08:58 2007
From: ManuelFS at Emparque.pt (Manuel Formosinho Sanchez)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 19:08:58 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
Message-ID: <6A78E24489F1624BAC01902547D3850D1DD511@emp-pdc.emp-sede.local>

Unsubscribe Healeys  manuelfs at emparque.pt


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.10/1091 - Release Date: 24-10-2007
14:31

From shop at justbrits.com  Thu Oct 25 12:33:18 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 13:33:18 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
References: <6A78E24489F1624BAC01902547D3850D1DD511@emp-pdc.emp-sede.local>
Message-ID: <02b101c81735$840191a0$6601a8c0@actualshop>

<<Unsubscribe Healeys  manuelfs at emparque.pt>>

That will NOT do it, Manuel (and all the rest of you).

Send a mail to:  healeys-request at autox.team.net with NO "Subject" and just the
word     unsubscribe    in the body.  Rest is automatic.

Or as it says at the bottom of EVERY List post, go to:

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

PLEASE keep this note!!!

Ed

From price at advocateadvisors.com  Thu Oct 25 12:50:04 2007
From: price at advocateadvisors.com (R. Price Lindsay)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 13:50:04 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Bumper Questions
Message-ID: <8980C46D80E81640B5A712F2DE6E00EE0D123E@advfs2.advocateadvisors.com>

I noticed last summer that the grommets that are on the spring bars that
support the rear bumper (connecting the bumper to the car) were split
and needed replacement.  While I was looking (no surprise here) I also
found that the rear reflectors needed to be renewed.  I bought the parts
and I'm now ready to go.  My question - what color are the spring bars
and the reflector supports?  Both are in good shape, they just need to
be painted.  I also presume they should be electro statically painted.



Thanks for the input.



Price Lindsay

'67 BJ8

From Healey100M at gmail.com  Thu Oct 25 12:49:42 2007
From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 14:49:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Vintage Motorsports Healey Racing Video
Message-ID: <6B8AA6BB-67CE-4866-B2C7-5285DF229AD5@gmail.com>

List, check out the racing video of Jeff Johnk's Fourintune prepared  
100-6 at Road America this fall. Takes a while to load.

http://www.vintagemotorsport.com/

Randy

Randy Hicks
'56 100M
'60 BN7 MkI
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com

From Awgertoo at aol.com  Thu Oct 25 13:08:27 2007
From: Awgertoo at aol.com (Awgertoo at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 15:08:27 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Vintage Motorsports Healey Racing Video
Message-ID: <d03.1ea70bc5.345243ab@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/25/2007 2:50:29 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
Healey100M at gmail.com writes:

List,  check out the racing video of Jeff Johnk's Fourintune prepared  
100-6  at Road America this fall. Takes a while to load.
------------------------------


I raced last weekend with Jeff in the SVRA event at Road  Atlanta.  Due to 
the small field the group in which my  Elva runs (1) was merged with Jeff's (3) 
and boy was he fast!  I  think he came in around fifth or sixth overall--I 
believe he was running under  2:50.
 
Best--Michael Oritt



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Thu Oct 25 14:43:44 2007
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 16:43:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Vintage Motorsports Healey Racing Video
In-Reply-To: <d03.1ea70bc5.345243ab@aol.com>
References: <d03.1ea70bc5.345243ab@aol.com>
Message-ID: <47210000.2080202@comcast.net>

Michael,
What does that tell you about the fastest Aussies?
Charlie

Awgertoo at aol.com wrote:

>In a message dated 10/25/2007 2:50:29 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
>Healey100M at gmail.com writes:
>
>List,  check out the racing video of Jeff Johnk's Fourintune prepared  
>100-6  at Road America this fall. Takes a while to load.
>------------------------------
>
>
>I raced last weekend with Jeff in the SVRA event at Road  Atlanta.  Due to 
>the small field the group in which my  Elva runs (1) was merged with Jeff's (3) 
>and boy was he fast!  I  think he came in around fifth or sixth overall--I 
>believe he was running under  2:50.
> 
>Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
>
>************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
>_______________________________________________
>mgcharlie at comcast.net 
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Oct 25 15:56:49 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 14:56:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] door glass rubber glazing strips
Message-ID: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKGELADGAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>

Hello, Healeyphiles -

I'm changing the glass in the driver's door of my BJ8.  I have the new glass
and the glazing strips from Moss.  The strips came with the following note:
"This is a everseal strip to vulcanize Please put small amount of petrol rub
again the strip and leave till goes sticky."

Before I put some petrol rub again the strip and make it go sticky, I
thought I would check with someone who has done this job recently and can
help me interpret the note.
Am I supposed to rub the strip with gasoline/petrol?  If so, which side of
the strip:  the one that goes against the glass, or the side that goes into
the channel, or both?

Thanks,
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

From scthomton at yahoo.com  Thu Oct 25 17:01:45 2007
From: scthomton at yahoo.com (Steve Thomton)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 16:01:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd:  Vintage Motorsports Healey Racing Video
Message-ID: <767241.15743.qm@web50601.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Great video (after it loads)....Healey sounds very strong!!....Jeff's hand positions seemed a bit unorthdoxed in the right hand corners....hope he doesn't have to do any fast corrections......but must work for him.....super nice car.  

Note: forwarded message attached.
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
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To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
From: Randy Hicks <Healey100M at gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 14:49:42 -0400
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List, check out the racing video of Jeff Johnk's Fourintune prepared  
100-6 at Road America this fall. Takes a while to load.

http://www.vintagemotorsport.com/

Randy

Randy Hicks
'56 100M
'60 BN7 MkI
'62 BN7 MkII
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
scthomton at yahoo.com 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Thu Oct 25 17:28:19 2007
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 19:28:19 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Moss bumpers
Message-ID: <BAY108-W251D8BE741AAD8FFEBBDFFC8950@phx.gbl>

Hi Charlie,

I ran into exactly the same thing with my new Victoria British rear bumper
from Taiwan.  If you center the bumper so that there is equal space from each
fender to the bumper ends two of the holes should line up (one on each side).
At least they did on my bj8 so I just marked the placement of the other bumper
holes onto the brackets and drilled two new holes, screwed them in and was
done with it.  This might just be another sign of poor quality control but
mine weren't very expensive so I just sacrificed the brackets.  If in the
future I can find a good original rear bumper and wish to spend about $700 or
more to get the originals chromed I'll just take off the brackets and have the
holes welded and then use the original holes to secure them.  I was not going
to let that small thing hold up the very end of my restoration.

Good luck and enjoy your car,

George Haywood
'65 bj8 FINISHED (if there is such a thing)
> Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 13:32:33 -0400> From: mgcharlie at comcast.net> To:
healeys at autox.team.net> Subject: [Healeys] Moss bumpers> > I have purchased
new bumpers for my BT7 from Moss and the rear bumper > hole centerlines
measure 6 3/8" on each side compared my original at > 7". Even though the
bracket holes are slotted, there is no way they can > accommodate 5/8". Is
Moss quality this bad or did they send the wrong > bumper?> I haven't checked
the front one yet. I'm half afraid of what I might find.> TIA> Charlie> '62
BT7> _______________________________________________> haywoodone at hotmail.com >
> Healeys at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
_________________________________________________________________
Help yourself to FREE treats served up daily at the Messenger Cafi. Stop by
today.
http://www.cafemessenger.com/info/info_sweetstuff2.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_OctWLt
agline

From helyjohn at cablespeed.com  Thu Oct 25 21:01:17 2007
From: helyjohn at cablespeed.com (John Snyder)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 19:01:17 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Wrist Pin Bushings
Message-ID: <002901c8177c$7af63b00$f030eb42@FRED>

First, let me state that I have been a loyal customer of Moss since 1970.  Had
a problem w/ their wrist pin bushings , PN 829-018. (BN6 thru BJ8)  My machine
shop called and said the I D of these bushings was so small that when they
honed them, there was almost no bronze left.  We checked the diameter of the
wrist pins (new Moss pistons) vs original factory wrist pins...exactly the
same.  Called Moss Tech Rep.  He checked it out and agreed.  He verified w/
another Moss person.  They found that only about 0.012" of bronze was left
after honing.  Maybe that is enough, but the machine shop did not like it.
Moss reported to the supplier.  Supplier said that since there had been no
reports of failure, there was nothing wrong w/ their bushings.

Moss agreed to credit my account for the cost of the bushings, but would not
pay the cost of installing and removing them because their supplier said there
was no problem.    They also said they had a new shipment of these bushings
coming in.

My point here is to have your machine shop carefully check these bushings b/4
installing them.  I will continue to buy from Moss, but will be more careful
when checking their parts.

John Snyder

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Thu Oct 25 20:29:21 2007
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (James  Shope)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 19:29:21 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] on the road again
Message-ID: <00b601c81778$044dc8a0$5201a8c0@Jim>

thanks to john snyder, who mailed me 4 wheels and hubcaps the bn6 made its
restoration maiden voyage today with a quick trip around the block.  brakes
and carbs need some adjusting, but other than that, it ran great.   will
license it next week and do a road test.  cherrio, here we go, wish me luck.
healeymanjim

From mkgoodman at worldnet.att.net  Thu Oct 25 21:52:17 2007
From: mkgoodman at worldnet.att.net (Mark Goodman)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 23:52:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Realize
Message-ID: <001a01c81783$ac966070$05c32150$@att.net>

>From Nick Ferrant:

 

 

I just had to pass this on.  I thought it was pretty cool when you sit down
and think about some of the things in it. Hope you all like. 
  


  
To realize
The value of a  brother or sister,
Ask someone
Who doesn't have one. 
  


To realize
The value of ten years,
Ask a newly
Divorced couple. 

To realize
The value of four years,
Ask a graduate. 
  


To realize
The value of one year,
Ask a student who
Has failed a final exam. 
  


To realize
The value of nine months,
Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn. 
  


To realize
The value of one month,
Ask a mother
Who has given birth to a premature baby. 
  


To realize
The value of one week,
Ask an editor of a weekly newspaper. 

To realize
The value of one minute,
Ask a person
Who has missed the train, bus or plane. 
  


To realize
The value of one-second,
Ask a person
Who has survived an accident. 
  


Time waits for no one 
  


Treasure every moment you have. 
  


You will treasure it even more when
You can share it with someone special 
  


To realize the value of a friend or family member: 
  

LOSE ONE. 
  


The origin of this letter is unknown,
But it brings good luck to everyone who passes it on. 
  
  
  


Peace, love and prosperity to all! 
  

Remember... 
  

Hold on tight to the ones you Love 



Life may not be the party we hoped for, 
But while we're here we should dance


  
  
  

  _____  

Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail
<http://o.aolcdn.com/cdn.webmail.aol.com/mailtour/aol/en-us/index.htm?ncid=A
OLAOF00020000000970> ! 

From legal_bill at verizon.net  Thu Oct 25 23:01:51 2007
From: legal_bill at verizon.net (legal_bill at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 00:01:51 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Healeys] MGA Engine block I.D.
Message-ID: <25860146.11348991193374911761.JavaMail.root@vms071.mailsrvcs.net>

IIRC, the 1622s have that number embossed right into the casting on the side of the block.

From: "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
Date: 2007/10/25 Thu AM 08:33:42 CDT
To: healeys at autox.team.net, spridgets at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] MGA Engine block I.D.

Hey Listers, my office pal has a '57 thru '62 composite MGA.  He knows
it's a "1600" engine, but how can he I.D. if it's a 1598 or a 1622 ??
Please help if you can.  There's just gotta be some MGA owners out
there.  Many Thanks,

Jack
_______________________________________________
legal_bill at verizon.net 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


Bill
Boston area
'65 BJ8
'02 S2000
'06 330i

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Oct 26 06:16:35 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 20:16:35 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Bumper Questions
In-Reply-To: <8980C46D80E81640B5A712F2DE6E00EE0D123E@advfs2.advocateadvisors.com>
References: <8980C46D80E81640B5A712F2DE6E00EE0D123E@advfs2.advocateadvisors.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0710260516i34454b8k14f1e606dbed73c@mail.gmail.com>

They are all semi gloss black.....



On 10/26/07, R. Price Lindsay <price at advocateadvisors.com> wrote:
> I noticed last summer that the grommets that are on the spring bars that
> support the rear bumper (connecting the bumper to the car) were split
> and needed replacement.  While I was looking (no surprise here) I also
> found that the rear reflectors needed to be renewed.  I bought the parts
> and I'm now ready to go.  My question - what color are the spring bars
> and the reflector supports?  Both are in good shape, they just need to
> be painted.  I also presume they should be electro statically painted.
>
>
>
> Thanks for the input.
>
>
>
> Price Lindsay
>
> '67 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From bjcap at optonline.net  Fri Oct 26 06:42:06 2007
From: bjcap at optonline.net (Carroll A Phillips)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 08:42:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] re rear reflector color
Message-ID: <000c01c817cd$9dd95660$6501a8c0@carrolls>

Price,

The rear reflector brackets on the BJ8 are silver that is brighter than the wheels, brake drums,and inside bumper bars.

Carroll Phillips

From shop at justbrits.com  Fri Oct 26 11:08:39 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 12:08:39 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: 991-356_Austin Healey Rear Bumper
Message-ID: <0c2901c817f2$db065950$6601a8c0@actualshop>

Folks:

As I care about quality parts for our cars AND I do care when a poor one
arises, I contacted Kelvin and I have agreed to assist him by posting his
replies to this List.  He is an EXTREMELY overworked and busy Gent that REALLY
cares about LBC's (mostly MGs & we should not hold it against him<G>) and
parts for them.  He just pkain does not have the time to even do digest
"Lists".  His reply follows along with Charlie's post.

Regards....

Ed
*****************************************************************************
**
----- Original Message -----
From: Dodd, Kelvin
To: shop at justbrits.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 2:10 PM
Subject: 991-356_Austin Healey Rear Bumper


Ed:



Thanks for the heads up. This bumper is not very high quality. We have looked
at alternatives, but so far the only other new one on the market fits even
worse.



It's marked as a 991 prefix number which means we are not proud of it.



Kelvin Dodd

Global Sourcing Engineer,  Moss Motors, Ltd.

www.mossmotors.com

440 Rutherford Street

Goleta, CA 93117



Phone : 805.679.7023

Fax:      805.692.2520




-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---

From: shop at justbrits.com [mailto:shop at justbrits.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 11:54 AM
To: Dodd, Kelvin
Subject: Fw: [Healeys] Moss bumpers



New one, Kelvin.

----- Original Message -----

From: Charlie Baldwin

To: healey list

Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 12:32 PM

Subject: [Healeys] Moss bumpers



I have purchased new bumpers for my BT7 from Moss and the rear bumper
hole centerlines measure 6 3/8" on each side compared my original at
7".  Even though the bracket holes are slotted, there is no way they can
accommodate 5/8".  Is Moss quality this bad or did they send the wrong
bumper?
I haven't checked the front one yet.  I'm half afraid of what I might find.
TIA
Charlie
'62 BT7
_______________________________________________
shop at justbrits.com

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team...net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From robert.w.johnson at charter.net  Fri Oct 26 11:34:58 2007
From: robert.w.johnson at charter.net (Bob Johnson)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 13:34:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny: The Dentist
Message-ID: <017201c817f6$880239a0$021919ac@valued28addca9>

Apparently this is a well remembered, but still just a very funny bit. Tim
Conway and Harvey Korman from the Carol Burnett Show.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q9T8i4FkNVo


Enjoy,

Bob Johnson
BJ8

From Editorgary at aol.com  Fri Oct 26 12:14:51 2007
From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 14:14:51 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Johnk's video and driving techniques
Message-ID: <d28.1807d639.3453889b@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/26/07 10:10:42 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net 
writes:


> Jeff's hand positions seemed a bit unorthdoxed in the right hand corners.
> 
I must agree. Johnk's got a very fast car but based on the video, it looks 
ato me s if he could go faster with a little instruction from a pro. According 
to the folks whom I've learned from (Skip Barber and Russell Racing, plus every 
racing book on my shelf), the goal is to ALWAYS keep both hands separated 
from one another by 180 degrees. For a normal race car with a tight turning 
ratio, that means put them at nine and three when the car is going straight, and 
never move them from the rim the wheel except to shift. For a Healey with stock 
steering, one might have to resort to rally-style shuffle steering (e.g. to 
turn right, right hand pulls wheel down and then moves up to top of wheel next 
to left hand, which then is moved down to bottom of wheel, 180 degrees off from 
right hand, and both hands are held in that position to apex of corner). 
However, even using that technique, the goal is to have the hands separated by 180 
degrees in the tightest section of the turn, providing good control and rapid 
response should the car start to slide in the corner. 
Incidentally, he could use some improvement in his choice of line as well. 
Lots more speed in that car than he's currently using, judging from the cars 
that were passing him.
Cheers
Gary




**************************************
 See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From dwhite4949 at wowway.com  Fri Oct 26 16:22:59 2007
From: dwhite4949 at wowway.com (Daniel and Diane White)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 18:22:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] choke cable adjustment
Message-ID: <472268C3.1030302@wowway.com>

Hello Listers,
I was reading in the list archives about choke return springs and in one 
message Alan Seigrist wrote-

> 1) Choke return springs are not original because the choke, in theory, is
> supposed to reset from the force of the carb jet return spring (internal in
> the carb).  In reality, however, this will rarely work unless everything is
> new and in perfect working order... so it is very common for people to add a
> choke return spring on BJ8s.  I have rebuilt carbs and everything is new...
> and I still use a choke return spring.  Better that than wasting fuel and
> contributing unnecessarily to global warming.
>   
I have a BN7 MkII  with HS4's and when I pull the choke knob all the way 
out I get travel on the cam to increase the rpm's but not enough travel 
to pull the jet tubes down thus making the mixture more rich.  With the 
knob fully in, the fast idle adjustment screws are backed off just clear 
of the cam.   What am I doing wrong that's not allowing the jet tubes to 
pull down with the choke fully out?   Any thoughts on how I can correct 
this?  The other question is how (if it's at all possible) can I install 
choke return springs on my carbs?

From coppifan at aol.com  Fri Oct 26 16:49:09 2007
From: coppifan at aol.com (coppifan at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 18:49:09 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] 1967 Austin Healey for sale
Message-ID: <bff.24d5415e.3453c8e5@aol.com>

1967 Austin Healey Mark III, 3000
70,787 miles
No rust
Light blue paint. Was Healey blue.
Dark blue interior. New Navy blue soft top.
New wire spoke wheels. New tires.
Radiator was re-bored.
Overdrive works fine.
 
An exceptionally good driver.
 
$41,500.
 
Annapolis, Maryland area.
Photo's available off list.
 
Bill Eggert
 



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From mgoode2 at cox.net  Fri Oct 26 17:07:56 2007
From: mgoode2 at cox.net (Mike Goode)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 16:07:56 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] For sale: 1967 3000, BJ8, Phase II, 40462
Message-ID: <005c01c81825$1144fe90$2b6b4d0a@cmh.netjets.com>

Went through resto 15K miles ago. Survived 6 Copper State 1000's without
incident. Superb condition, mechanically perfect...AZ car, no rust. Details
and photos available off list. Listing on AH Club website. Old English white
with black interior. 5 chrome wires. $59,900

Mike Goode
Scottsdale

From dcorning at comcast.net  Fri Oct 26 17:09:06 2007
From: dcorning at comcast.net (Dan Corning)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 18:09:06 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Heat Shield Material
Message-ID: <000001c81825$360c2000$6501a8c0@DCC>

I'm considering replacing the asbestos heat shield material with the cement
board available at most home stores.  The stuff seems quite brittle to work
with and I'm wondering if anyone has used something else that may work
better.

Dan Corning
BT7

From kags at shaw.ca  Fri Oct 26 18:24:17 2007
From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 17:24:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] door glass rubber glazing strips
References: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKGELADGAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>
Message-ID: <006d01c8182f$b632c810$fb086c18@computer>

Steve:

What we do here is use ordinary engine oil - whatever is in the utility 
squirt can.  It is easier to oil the Everseal strips on both sides and 
install the glass channels while the rubber is still wet - less chance of 
tearing the rubber (which might happen anyway!).  It helps to set the glass 
assembly aside for a day or so to let the oil dry so the glass is firmly 
stuck to the rubber before the window is put back into the door.

Everseal is still available by length from a roll in most auto glass shops - 
it comes in several thicknesses - only one will be right for the Healey side 
window glass, depending on whether the glass is original or repro (which can 
be slightly thinner).  It's a fiddly, frustrating job at best - 2 people and 
a rubber mallet.  Better have lots of Everseal at hand, as well as a few 
extra nylon bearings, which are relatively fragile and often break on 
installation.

Some people use glaziers urethane instead of Everseal.  The problem with 
that is being able to dismantle everything next time the little white nylon 
glass bearings break in service, which as we all know happens often.  With 
the Everseal, a light heating of the glass channel with a propane torch will 
usually release the glass without too much fuss so you can do the whole ugly 
job all over again.  Stinks though!

As for the instuction translation, I guess we have to conclude that it's a 
'sign of the times'.

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 2:56 PM
Subject: [Healeys] door glass rubber glazing strips


Hello, Healeyphiles -

I'm changing the glass in the driver's door of my BJ8.  I have the new glass
and the glazing strips from Moss.  The strips came with the following note:
"This is a everseal strip to vulcanize Please put small amount of petrol rub
again the strip and leave till goes sticky."

Before I put some petrol rub again the strip and make it go sticky, I
thought I would check with someone who has done this job recently and can
help me interpret the note.
Am I supposed to rub the strip with gasoline/petrol?  If so, which side of
the strip:  the one that goes against the glass, or the side that goes into
the channel, or both?

Thanks,
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

From dwhite4949 at wowway.com  Fri Oct 26 20:25:14 2007
From: dwhite4949 at wowway.com (Daniel and Diane White)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 22:25:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Choke return springs
Message-ID: <4722A18A.3070909@wowway.com>

Ed,
Thank you for the link to the tech articles.  The diagram showing the BJ 
8 carbs with return spring does give me thoughts as to how I could do a 
similar set up.  If I can't get rid of the "drag" in the cables as David 
suggested, I'll definitely think about using some springs to help the 
jet tubes return to their "non-choke" position.
Regards,
Dan

From mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net  Fri Oct 26 20:37:04 2007
From: mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net (Mark and Kathy)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 22:37:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] List Test
Message-ID: <001c01c81842$4370c030$ed308304@markl946cfrd7q>

Did I get knocked off the list or is she down?  Not getting any
lists since Wed.

Mark

From dwhite4949 at wowway.com  Fri Oct 26 20:50:44 2007
From: dwhite4949 at wowway.com (Daniel and Diane White)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 22:50:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Heat Shield Material
Message-ID: <4722A784.4050708@wowway.com>

Dan,
When I made my heat shields I used the cement board.  I got it from a 
local tile shop, used my old heat shields as patterns and cut out the 
new ones with a jig saw.  It may be that one cement board is more 
brittle than another depending on the manufacturer...you may want to 
check out more than one supplier and compare the boards.  My material 
cut and drilled w/o splintering or shattering.  I clamped a yardstick 
onto the board and work table to guide the jig saw so my edges are nice 
and straight.  I don't think you want the material too soft because 
inevitably it will get dented if it is.  I can send you pictures of the 
heat shields if you need them.
Regards,
Dan White
1962 BN7 Mk II

From shop at justbrits.com  Fri Oct 26 21:11:08 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 22:11:08 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Heat Shield Material
References: <4722A784.4050708@wowway.com>
Message-ID: <082101c81847$05526650$6601a8c0@actualshop>

Gents:

Go to http://autox.team.net/ and do a search.  The subject has been beaten to
death with some VERY good results!!

WHY re-invent a wheel??

Do you ALL forget there are Archives??   And FREE !!

Ed

From MedLabInc at msn.com  Fri Oct 26 23:16:30 2007
From: MedLabInc at msn.com (Dick Matson)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 22:16:30 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Choke return springs
Message-ID: <BAY108-DAV209E584F3B9FA8E9E1C2B7A2970@phx.gbl>

My Bj8 choke cable once had curious drag also.

On closer inspection I found strands of the pull cable inside the shield was
frayed.  Frayed strands were sticking out between the end of the shield and
choke cable bracket mounted on the firewall - that's inside the car and where
it couldn't be seen.  I found it by removing the cable splitter block and the
firewall bracket.

Installed a new pull cable.

Chocks work fine now and return back as they should.

Dick / Bj8


----- Original Message -----
From: Daniel and Diane White<mailto:dwhite4949 at wowway.com>
To: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2007 7:25 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Choke return springs


Ed,
Thank you for the link to the tech articles.  The diagram showing the BJ
8 carbs with return spring does give me thoughts as to how I could do a
similar set up.  If I can't get rid of the "drag" in the cables as David
suggested, I'll definitely think about using some springs to help the
jet tubes return to their "non-choke" position.
Regards,
Dan
_______________________________________________
medlabinc at msn.com<mailto:medlabinc at msn.com>

Healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<http://autox.team.net/mailman/
listinfo/healeys>

From rwil at sbcglobal.net  Fri Oct 26 23:52:15 2007
From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 22:52:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] List Test
In-Reply-To: <001c01c81842$4370c030$ed308304@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <001c01c81842$4370c030$ed308304@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <nck5i35vjgndi2f3lqtseqd2vabeq0815q@4ax.com>

I tried to reply directly to Mark but got this bounce:
<This message was created automatically by mail delivery software.
<
<A message that you sent could not be delivered to one or more of its
<recipients. This is a permanent error. The following address(es)
failed:
<
<  mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net
<    mailbox is full: retry timeout exceeded

Maybe that explains why he isn't getting any healeys list email.

-Roland

On Fri, 26 Oct 2007 22:37:04 -0400, you wrote:

::Did I get knocked off the list or is she down?  Not getting any
::lists since Wed.
::
::Mark

From coll44 at msn.com  Sat Oct 27 06:01:46 2007
From: coll44 at msn.com (TERRY COLL)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 08:01:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] engine rpms
Message-ID: <BLU111-DAV8E92FCD4E31F1813FFF68C9970@phx.gbl>

Gents,

The engine on my '64 BJ8 idles pretty normally after being initially warmed up
but the rpm increases, by 1000-1200 rpm, after being driven for a while.
Anyone have any thoughts as to possible causes?

Thanks, Terry Coll  '64 BJ8



Healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<http://autox.team.net/mailman/
listinfo/healeys>
_______________________________________________
coll44 at msn.com

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Oct 27 06:56:03 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 20:56:03 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] engine rpms
In-Reply-To: <BLU111-DAV8E92FCD4E31F1813FFF68C9970@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU111-DAV8E92FCD4E31F1813FFF68C9970@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0710270556t1fee0b56p1476fa662218cacb@mail.gmail.com>

Terry -

This type of symptom is almost always a result of poorly tuned carbs,
worn out carbs, or leaks in the gaskets around the intake manifold.
Also if your brake booster is starting to wear out, you can get air
and vapors from the booster travelling into the intake manifold as
well, but this is less common.

I would highly suggest you rebuild your carbs, and most improtantly
get teflon bushings for the throttle shafts - this will make your BJ8
idle like a rock.  You can get teflon bushings for HD8 carbs fro
British Car Specialists.

Cheers,

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On 10/27/07, TERRY COLL <coll44 at msn.com> wrote:
> Gents,
>
> The engine on my '64 BJ8 idles pretty normally after being initially warmed up
> but the rpm increases, by 1000-1200 rpm, after being driven for a while.
> Anyone have any thoughts as to possible causes?
>
> Thanks, Terry Coll  '64 BJ8
>
>
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> listinfo/healeys>

From coppifan at aol.com  Sat Oct 27 07:04:09 2007
From: coppifan at aol.com (coppifan at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 09:04:09 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] 1967 BJ8 For Sale
Message-ID: <cd1.1dae792f.34549149@aol.com>

'67 BJ8 for sale
Great driver
$41,500
Annapolis, Maryland



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From dwhite4949 at wowway.com  Sat Oct 27 07:16:13 2007
From: dwhite4949 at wowway.com (Daniel and Diane White)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 09:16:13 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Choke return spring tech link
Message-ID: <47233A1D.4040702@wowway.com>

Here is the link that Ed Driver sent to me showing the return spring 
installed on the BJ8 carb.
>
> Go to www.vintage-sportscar-touring.ca/technical.html 
Hope this helps,
Dan

From coppifan at aol.com  Sat Oct 27 08:03:21 2007
From: coppifan at aol.com (coppifan at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 10:03:21 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] 1967 Healey for sale
Message-ID: <c18.203ae4de.34549f29@aol.com>

1967 Austin Healey 3000 for sale
Great Driver
Annapolis, Maryland
$41,500
 
Coppifan at AOL.com



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sat Oct 27 09:14:19 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 10:14:19 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] engine rpms
References: <BLU111-DAV8E92FCD4E31F1813FFF68C9970@phx.gbl>
	<ff59076c0710270556t1fee0b56p1476fa662218cacb@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <006a01c818ac$0c6b76b0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>

Alan may very well be right, another possibility is that these motors also 
have a lot of oil in the sump that takes some time to warm up, so idle speed 
does tend to increase as the oil warms up and thins, which really does take 
a while on these cars.

Greg Lemon
54 BN1 

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sat Oct 27 09:20:50 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 10:20:50 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] O/D Problems
Message-ID: <006b01c818ac$f59f79d0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>

As I mentioned earlier my BN1 overdrive is going wonky on me.  After years 
of yeoman's service.  I dropped out once on a long highway trip, and that 
now has quickly become the norm.

I checked the relays (BN1 has two of them, Bless Donald and his little elves 
hearts)  the other night they are fine so it is time to take the tunnel off 
I guess, have also checked the oil level and it is fine.

The O/d shifts in fine, and at first dropped out occasionally, now over the 
course of a few weeks ( I take the car out for maybe 3-4 drives a week) that 
has gone from occassionally to pretty much anytime throttle is applied or I 
go up a hill, if I really work at it I can get it to stay engaged a while. 
When it goes out sometimes it drops out completely sometimes it sort of half 
in/half out vaccillating.

Anyway I read a good article about the hydraulic part of the O/D that talks 
about weak non return valve springs being a likely  fix for low pressure. 
However neither the article http://www.ntahc.org/techtips/OVERDRIVE1.html 
nor my factory workshop manual identifies this part.  Can anybody help point 
this part out and can it be removed, service, withought completely 
dismanteling the O/D?  That and any other thoughts on the problem are 
welcome, still hoping it is electrical, but that hope is dwindling as I test 
and diagnose.

Greg Lemon
54 BN1

From rotaryman at cox.net  Sat Oct 27 09:35:08 2007
From: rotaryman at cox.net (patrick harris)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 08:35:08 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Eastwood rust dissolver
References: <20071014144712.RZVL7380.fed1rmmtao102.cox.net@fed1rmimpo02.cox.net>
Message-ID: <002701c818ae$f4bde180$6401a8c0@FRYS>

after you treat panel ect. with this what primer can you put on parts that 
will protect them.  I live by the coast and had my chassis primed up I 
thought and many of my suspension parts nicely painted and was horrified to 
discover rust creeping onto them from below the paint.  The car was 
originally in a body shop inland where salt air was not a problem.  Its 
discouraging to say the least.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Allyn Richardson" <allynrichardson at cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 7:46 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Eastwood rust dissolver


>I buy the same type of rust remover from an e-store called the "Rust Store"
> for approx. $25 a gallon. This stuff is a miracle! Non acidic, based on 
> soy
> beans (no joke). Sounds like a lot of money but it removes rust from every
> nook and cranny that blasting will not get to. Only removes oxidation from
> ferrous based metals.
> It's great for small parts that are to small to media blast. I have left
> parts in the liquid for several weeks with no dimensional change. Good for
> me since I tend to "forget" about stuff.
>
> Allyn
> _______________________________________________
> rotaryman at cox.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.9/1069 - Release Date: 
> 10/13/2007 7:26 PM

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sat Oct 27 09:38:06 2007
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 11:38:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] O/D Problems
In-Reply-To: <006b01c818ac$f59f79d0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
References: <006b01c818ac$f59f79d0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
Message-ID: <47235B5E.60900@earthlink.net>

Greg,

It's the ball bearing / plunger / spring at the OD hydraulic pump.  See the 
picture at the start of Part 2 - 
http://www.team.net/www/healey/tech/big_hly/od/delborder_od.html

Have you hooked up a pressure gauge to the OD yet?

Bob

Greg Lemon wrote:

> 
> Anyway I read a good article about the hydraulic part of the O/D that talks 
> about weak non return valve springs being a likely  fix for low pressure. 
> However neither the article http://www.ntahc.org/techtips/OVERDRIVE1.html 
> nor my factory workshop manual identifies this part.  Can anybody help point 
> this part out and can it be removed, service, withought completely 
> dismanteling the O/D?  That and any other thoughts on the problem are 
> welcome, still hoping it is electrical, but that hope is dwindling as I test 
> and diagnose.
> 
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sat Oct 27 09:46:28 2007
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 08:46:28 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Eastwood rust dissolver
In-Reply-To: <002701c818ae$f4bde180$6401a8c0@FRYS>
Message-ID: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKOELMDGAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>

Hi, Patrick -
The best primer I have ever found to prevent rust was called "Corroless".  I
understand that it was developed in the UK for treatment and protection of
offshore oil rigs.  You could paint it on over rust after wirebrushing the
loose stuff off.  I have used it on previously-rusted metal parts exposed
continuously to the weather without any topcoat, and only after many years
did any sign of additional rusting appear -- and that only slightly.  No
place on any of my cars where I used Corroless has rusted again.

For a while, Eastwood Company sold Corroless, but it has been replaced with
another product called "Rust Encapsulator".  It may be the same paint (or
not), for the red oxide primer version looks the same to me and seems to
work about as well.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
patrick harris
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2007 8:35 AM
To: Allyn Richardson; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Eastwood rust dissolver


after you treat panel ect. with this what primer can you put on parts that
will protect them.  I live by the coast and had my chassis primed up I
thought and many of my suspension parts nicely painted and was horrified to
discover rust creeping onto them from below the paint.  The car was
originally in a body shop inland where salt air was not a problem.  Its
discouraging to say the least.

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sat Oct 27 10:06:33 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 11:06:33 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] O/D Problems
References: <006b01c818ac$f59f79d0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
	<47235B5E.60900@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <000b01c818b3$588ce360$6401a8c0@toshibauser>

Thanks Bob and John, just what I needed, off I go to get greasy, Greg

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Haskell" <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
To: "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2007 10:38 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] O/D Problems


> Greg,
>
> It's the ball bearing / plunger / spring at the OD hydraulic pump.  See 
> the picture at the start of Part 2 - 
> http://www.team.net/www/healey/tech/big_hly/od/delborder_od.html
>
> Have you hooked up a pressure gauge to the OD yet?
>
> Bob
>
> Greg Lemon wrote:
>
>>
>> Anyway I read a good article about the hydraulic part of the O/D that 
>> talks about weak non return valve springs being a likely  fix for low 
>> pressure. However neither the article 
>> http://www.ntahc.org/techtips/OVERDRIVE1.html nor my factory workshop 
>> manual identifies this part.  Can anybody help point this part out and 
>> can it be removed, service, withought completely dismanteling the O/D? 
>> That and any other thoughts on the problem are welcome, still hoping it 
>> is electrical, but that hope is dwindling as I test and diagnose.
>>
>> Greg Lemon
>> 54 BN1

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sat Oct 27 10:18:26 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 11:18:26 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Eastwood rust dissolver
References: <NOEFJBPLAINEGFAIHBHKOELMDGAA.sbyers@ec.rr.com>
Message-ID: <001001c818b5$01560160$6401a8c0@toshibauser>

More suggestions, cheap and quick, rust-oleum rusty metal primer does a good 
job of controlling rust andit s few bucks at your local hardware store.

More expensive and invloved, I would not do this for a few bits, more of a 
step to take if you are doing a whole car, PPG epoxy primer, very hard 
durable, sticky stuff that you can paint over, great for frames as well as 
first layer of primer on the body.  Need compressor, spraying equipment, and 
excellent mask and ventilation, nasty stuff, but it works very well. 
Available at your local auto body supply shop, expensive, I think other 
manufacturers besides PPG may make an equivalent as well, but haven't used 
it.

Greg Lemon
54 Bn1

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2007 10:46 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Eastwood rust dissolver


> Hi, Patrick -
> The best primer I have ever found to prevent rust was called "Corroless". 
> I
> understand that it was developed in the UK for treatment and protection of
> offshore oil rigs.  You could paint it on over rust after wirebrushing the
> loose stuff off.  I have used it on previously-rusted metal parts exposed
> continuously to the weather without any topcoat, and only after many years
> did any sign of additional rusting appear -- and that only slightly.  No
> place on any of my cars where I used Corroless has rusted again.
>
> For a while, Eastwood Company sold Corroless, but it has been replaced 
> with
> another product called "Rust Encapsulator".  It may be the same paint (or
> not), for the red oxide primer version looks the same to me and seems to
> work about as well.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+sbyers=ec.rr.com at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
> patrick harris
> Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2007 8:35 AM
> To: Allyn Richardson; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Eastwood rust dissolver
>
>
> after you treat panel ect. with this what primer can you put on parts that
> will protect them.  I live by the coast and had my chassis primed up I
> thought and many of my suspension parts nicely painted and was horrified 
> to
> discover rust creeping onto them from below the paint.  The car was
> originally in a body shop inland where salt air was not a problem.  Its
> discouraging to say the least.
> _______________________________________________
> glemon at neb.rr.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

From msalter at precisionsportscar.com  Sat Oct 27 10:21:09 2007
From: msalter at precisionsportscar.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 12:21:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] O/D Problems
In-Reply-To: <006b01c818ac$f59f79d0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
Message-ID: <20071027162153.5AC42187B36@autox.team.net>

Hi Greg, before you start tearing things apart I would strongly recommend
that you do as much diagnosis as you can. 
Try to check whether or not the voltage to the overdrive solenoid is "going
away" causing the overdrive to drop out. 
A test light connected to the solenoid wire, which you can view while
driving, is quite adequate for this. 
Once that test is completed you will have a much clearer idea of how to
proceed. 

Michael Salter
100S (1955)
3000 Mk111(1965)
100 (1953)
AHX12 (1953)
Bugeye (1961)
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+msalter=precisionsportscar.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Greg Lemon
Sent: October 27, 2007 11:21 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] O/D Problems

As I mentioned earlier my BN1 overdrive is going wonky on me.  After years 
of yeoman's service.  I dropped out once on a long highway trip, and that 
now has quickly become the norm.

I checked the relays (BN1 has two of them, Bless Donald and his little elves

hearts)  the other night they are fine so it is time to take the tunnel off 
I guess, have also checked the oil level and it is fine.

The O/d shifts in fine, and at first dropped out occasionally, now over the 
course of a few weeks ( I take the car out for maybe 3-4 drives a week) that

has gone from occassionally to pretty much anytime throttle is applied or I 
go up a hill, if I really work at it I can get it to stay engaged a while. 
When it goes out sometimes it drops out completely sometimes it sort of half

in/half out vaccillating.

Anyway I read a good article about the hydraulic part of the O/D that talks 
about weak non return valve springs being a likely  fix for low pressure. 
However neither the article http://www.ntahc.org/techtips/OVERDRIVE1.html 
nor my factory workshop manual identifies this part.  Can anybody help point

this part out and can it be removed, service, withought completely 
dismanteling the O/D?  That and any other thoughts on the problem are 
welcome, still hoping it is electrical, but that hope is dwindling as I test

and diagnose.

Greg Lemon
54 BN1

From rusd at sitestar.net  Sat Oct 27 10:22:15 2007
From: rusd at sitestar.net (Dave Russell)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 10:22:15 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] O/D Problems
In-Reply-To: <000b01c818b3$588ce360$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
References: <006b01c818ac$f59f79d0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
	<47235B5E.60900@earthlink.net>
	<000b01c818b3$588ce360$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
Message-ID: <472365B7.3030005@sitestar.net>

Hi Greg,

The plunger is physically located under the side cover/solenoid bracket. 
There is a lot of spring pressure under this cover. Release the bolts 
gradually & evenly. With the cover off, deep inside is a brass hex plug. 
It may be very tight so make sure the socket fits well.

Regards,
Dave Russell

Greg Lemon wrote:

>Thanks Bob and John, just what I needed, off I go to get greasy, Greg
>
>----- Original Message ----- 
>From: "Bob Haskell" <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
>To: "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
>Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2007 10:38 AM
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] O/D Problems
>
>
>  
>
>>Greg,
>>
>>It's the ball bearing / plunger / spring at the OD hydraulic pump.  See 
>>the picture at the start of Part 2 - 
>>http://www.team.net/www/healey/tech/big_hly/od/delborder_od.html
>>
>>Have you hooked up a pressure gauge to the OD yet?
>>
>>Bob

From coll44 at msn.com  Sat Oct 27 11:08:01 2007
From: coll44 at msn.com (TERRY COLL)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 13:08:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] engine rpms
Message-ID: <BLU111-DAV1252DADE3E2DF77652DECBC9970@phx.gbl>

Thanks to Alan and Greg for their suggestions.  I'll start with the adjusting
the carbs and go from there.

Thanks again, Terry Coll  '64 BJ8

----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Lemon
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2007 11:14 AM
To: Alan Seigrist; TERRY COLL
Cc: austin healey
Subject: Re: [Healeys] engine rpms

Alan may very well be right, another possibility is that these motors also
have a lot of oil in the sump that takes some time to warm up, so idle speed
does tend to increase as the oil warms up and thins, which really does take
a while on these cars.

Greg Lemon
54 BN1

From Warthodson at aol.com  Sat Oct 27 12:21:27 2007
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 14:21:27 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] brake line component
Message-ID: <d10.17c812f4.3454dba7@aol.com>

I am trying to locate a source for the female tube nut that is fitted onto 
some of the Healey brake lines. This nut threads onto a 3/8"-24 male brake line 
fitting. I would prefer a nut that is as close as possible to original in 
appearance. Any suggestions as to a source?
Thanks,
Gary Hodson



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sat Oct 27 14:23:12 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 15:23:12 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] O/D Problems
Message-ID: <003b01c818d7$331db7c0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>

OK, tunnel is off, tried to O/D by bypassing the centrifugal switch, it
kicks in fine with the car sitting there.  I pushed on the OD accuating
lever and the solenoid seemed like it was doings its job holding it in
place.

checked the little ball thing that gets clogged, it was full of oil, is this
correct if the car has not been run for a while?  as I recall when I have
looked before it has not been so full of oil.

Went for a drive, the solenoid lever flicked back and forth as it kicks in
and out of O/D does this mean bad solenoid?  I did not do the voltage test
Michael suggested, but can do this with a volt meter or 12 volt test light.

Should I reset the operating lever, haven't done that since I got the car 8
years ago?

Greg Lemon
54 BN1

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sat Oct 27 15:22:14 2007
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 16:22:14 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] O/D Problems
References: <6aktl7$11vq0v@hrndva-mxlb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <004601c818df$7203bb80$6401a8c0@toshibauser>

I did do the electrical test with the Solenoid in situ, voltage drops as it 
drops in and out from about 14 volts, wich is normal operating range for the 
car, down to between 2-6 aproximately as it drops out.

As mentioned, I can't push it out of position by hand when activated, I'll 
test the solenoid as Micheal is suggesting.

Sorry for the silly question, but where should the big spark appear?  I have 
an ammeter and can test that as well sounds like maybe time for a new 
solenoid?  If that is the worst not so bad, free fix is best, but not having 
to tear apart the O/D isn't so bad.

Greg Lemon
54 BN1 

From helyjohn at cablespeed.com  Sat Oct 27 20:34:05 2007
From: helyjohn at cablespeed.com (John Snyder)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 18:34:05 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] brake line component
References: <d10.17c812f4.3454dba7@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000a01c8190b$02dcf970$f030eb42@FRED>

Contact Doug Reid at Mrfinespanner at earthlink.net  or 301-898-8881 or 
18GMotorworks.

John Snyder


>I am trying to locate a source for the female tube nut that is fitted onto
> some of the Healey brake lines. This nut threads onto a 3/8"-24 male brake 
> line
> fitting. I would prefer a nut that is as close as possible to original in
> appearance. Any suggestions as to a source?
> Thanks,
> Gary Hodson

From mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net  Sat Oct 27 20:59:31 2007
From: mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net (Mark and Kathy)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 22:59:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Test  connection
Message-ID: <000601c8190e$90bf45b0$4b2d8304@markl946cfrd7q>

I've been told that I should be back on line.

Mark

From mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net  Sat Oct 27 21:10:21 2007
From: mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net (Mark and Kathy)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 23:10:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Test
Message-ID: <001301c81910$14074110$4b2d8304@markl946cfrd7q>


From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Sat Oct 27 18:16:24 2007
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Leonard  Hartnett)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 17:16:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] O/D Problems
In-Reply-To: <004601c818df$7203bb80$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
References: <6aktl7$11vq0v@hrndva-mxlb.mail.rr.com>
	<004601c818df$7203bb80$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
Message-ID: <67F22E98D27642F6A8DCE23DB1DB8BB3@LeonardPC>

As you may recall from my recent e-mail, my OD was dropping out when I
turned the switch OFF and when I stepped on the accelerator with the switch
ON.  The consensus was that my OD relay was the problem.  Today, I removed
the relay and tested it.  It tested good both for relay operation and
contacts closing.  I reassembled it and reattached the wires.  I haven't
driven it but a test by turning the switch on and off and depressing the
accelerator seems to indicate that all is right with the world once again.
My conclusion at this point is that the problem was a bad contact at the
spade connectors.  Removing and reconnecting them cleaned them enough to
make things work properly again.  I will know for sure when I take it out
for its next drive.  If true, wouldn't it be great if all our problems were
solved that easily and cost effectively?!?!

(The Other) Len
Vacaville,  California,  USA
1967 3000 MKIII, HBJ8L39031

From AAHealeyguy at aol.com  Sat Oct 27 21:57:57 2007
From: AAHealeyguy at aol.com (AAHealeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 23:57:57 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] So CA Fires & AH Club
Message-ID: <cf9.1f14f827.345562c5@aol.com>

Hello gang,   somehow I have been off the list due to  "bouncing" or 
"phishing"  or something.   Just wanted to report to the nationwide list about the 
southern CA fires particularly San Diego  (where Conclave 08 will be held next 
year).   We have had various members of the San Diego Club that have had to 
evacuate and are now back in their homes and did not lose their homes.   However,  
one of our dear members and past President  Bob Farnsworth & wife Susan,  
lived on Starvation Mountain in Ramona,   and  did lose their home totally burned 
to the ground  including their 3 Healeys.   They were able to get out just in 
time  with their lives and pets,  no notice, embers burning around them as 
they fled.   

Gerry K. (in La Mesa, San Diego)  We are safe. 



**************************************
 See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From legal_bill at verizon.net  Sun Oct 28 08:25:38 2007
From: legal_bill at verizon.net (legal_bill at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 10:25:38 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Healeys] So CA Fires & AH Club
Message-ID: <10804934.3145911193585138297.JavaMail.root@vms069.mailsrvcs.net>

I do not know them, but I'm glad they are ok.  Things can be replaced.  No matter how dear they are to us, people come before possessions.  That said, if there is anything we can do to help them in their time of loss, please let us know.



From: AAHealeyguy at aol.com
Date: 2007/10/27 Sat PM 10:57:57 CDT
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] So CA Fires & AH Club

Hello gang,   somehow I have been off the list due to  "bouncing" or 
"phishing"  or something.   Just wanted to report to the nationwide list about the 
southern CA fires particularly San Diego  (where Conclave 08 will be held next 
year).   We have had various members of the San Diego Club that have had to 
evacuate and are now back in their homes and did not lose their homes.   However,  
one of our dear members and past President  Bob Farnsworth & wife Susan,  
lived on Starvation Mountain in Ramona,   and  did lose their home totally burned 
to the ground  including their 3 Healeys.   They were able to get out just in 
time  with their lives and pets,  no notice, embers burning around them as 
they fled.   

Gerry K. (in La Mesa, San Diego)  We are safe. 



**************************************
 See what's new at http://www.aol.com
_______________________________________________
legal_bill at verizon.net 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


Bill
Boston area
'65 BJ8
'02 S2000
'06 330i

From quenty at ntelos.net  Sun Oct 28 09:37:03 2007
From: quenty at ntelos.net (Dave Schweninger)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 12:37:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Choke return springs
In-Reply-To: <4722A18A.3070909@wowway.com>
References: <4722A18A.3070909@wowway.com>
Message-ID: <3E164DEE-6C71-424E-B66C-7C59CBACA9A3@ntelos.net>

Dan
Try replacing the cables with motor cycle throttle cables. They are  
available with teflon coated cables and teflon lined sleeves. If you  
ever had a sticky throttle, clutch, or front brake cable, the  
difference is startling.
  Call around and find a shop that stocks this stuff in bulk. Other  
wise you will have to pay for a lot of worthless end Fittings and  
adjusters.
good luck
Dave
On Oct 26, 2007, at 10:25 PM, Daniel and Diane White wrote:

> Ed,
> Thank you for the link to the tech articles.  The diagram showing  
> the BJ
> 8 carbs with return spring does give me thoughts as to how I could  
> do a
> similar set up.  If I can't get rid of the "drag" in the cables as  
> David
> suggested, I'll definitely think about using some springs to help the
> jet tubes return to their "non-choke" position.
> Regards,
> Dan
> _______________________________________________
> quenty at ntelos.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From 63AHBJ7 at comcast.net  Sun Oct 28 16:50:35 2007
From: 63AHBJ7 at comcast.net (63AHBJ7)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 17:50:35 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] For Sale
References: <4722A18A.3070909@wowway.com>
	<3E164DEE-6C71-424E-B66C-7C59CBACA9A3@ntelos.net>
Message-ID: <047101c819bd$562e7e20$6601a8c0@actualshop>

'72 RWA Midget For Sale in Cars For Sale at www.justbrits.com !!

From dwhite4949 at wowway.com  Sun Oct 28 16:52:59 2007
From: dwhite4949 at wowway.com (Daniel and Diane White)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 19:52:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Choke return springs
Message-ID: <472520DB.50902@wowway.com>

Here is a follow up on the choke problem(s) with the tri-carb.  First 
problem- couldn't get enough travel when pulling out the choke knob to 
pull down the jet tubes although fast idle cam would operate to increase 
rpm's.  Second problem- drag/friction wouldn't allow jet tubes to return 
to "non-choke" position.  First problem solved by undoing the trunion on 
the fast idle cam, then moving the cam to the point where jet tube just 
starts to pull down, then pull the choke cable taught to eliminate any 
slack, then tighten the trunion.  Do this for all three.  Now when the 
choke knob is pulled out about an inch the jet tubes pull down and do 
their job.  I'll have to set the individual fast idles to 1,000 rpm's 
tomorrow.  Second problem no longer exists so I have no need to install 
additional springs to help the jet tubes return to the non-choke 
position, although I will take the suggestions to go to a 
bicycle/motorcycle shop and replace the cables with teflon ones as my 
choke cables look pretty tired.  I manually worked the jet tubes via the 
cam and they return just fine which I think is a real testament to the 
SU carbs considering the age and over 100,000 miles.  A note to Jim 
Shope...I can furnish pictures of the cam set-up if you would like them.
Regards,
Dan White
1962 BN7 Mk II

From clocks at midcoast.com  Sun Oct 28 17:24:47 2007
From: clocks at midcoast.com (James Lea)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 20:24:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey engine for sale.
Message-ID: <002e01c819c2$1caeb2a0$0201a8c0@JIM>

Winter is almost here and I need to get rid of some of the things cluttering 
up the garage. I have a six cylinder engine with carbs for sale for $250.00 
picked up here. It's frozen but the block is good and all the parts are 
there including the carbs. If interested, please contact me off line. 
Cheers, JL

James Lea
PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632

1951 Triumph Renown
1952 MG TD
1952 Triumph Mayflower
1958 Rover P4
1962 Austin Healey BT7 

From jsoderling at astound.net  Sun Oct 28 18:07:53 2007
From: jsoderling at astound.net (John Soderling)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 18:07:53 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] engine rpms
References: <BLU111-DAV8E92FCD4E31F1813FFF68C9970@phx.gbl><ff59076c0710270556t1fee0b56p1476fa662218cacb@mail.gmail.com>
	<006a01c818ac$0c6b76b0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
Message-ID: <002401c819c8$228b3080$ec042a45@Soderling>

The problem often is that the that the return springs on the carb shaft get 
weak with age and fail to return the throttle shaft all the way back to the 
stops.  Mine did this only when the car had been driven for a while and 
things were hot.  You may be able to wind the return spring tighter on the 
carb shaft.  I added a short throttle shaft lever to my shaft between the 
two carbs and added an auxiliary spring from the lever end to the 
carb-to-carb fuel line.  The extra spring now always pulls the carb shaft 
all the way back to the stops at idle.
Vroom vrooom,
John
Erika the Red

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
To: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>; "TERRY COLL" <coll44 at msn.com>
Cc: "austin healey" <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2007 8:14 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] engine rpms


> Alan may very well be right, another possibility is that these motors also
> have a lot of oil in the sump that takes some time to warm up, so idle 
> speed
> does tend to increase as the oil warms up and thins, which really does 
> take
> a while on these cars.
>
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1
> _______________________________________________
> jsoderling at astound.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Oct 28 19:11:26 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 10:11:26 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] engine rpms
In-Reply-To: <002401c819c8$228b3080$ec042a45@Soderling>
References: <BLU111-DAV8E92FCD4E31F1813FFF68C9970@phx.gbl>
	<ff59076c0710270556t1fee0b56p1476fa662218cacb@mail.gmail.com>
	<006a01c818ac$0c6b76b0$6401a8c0@toshibauser>
	<002401c819c8$228b3080$ec042a45@Soderling>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0710281911q37a04f35p1f3402ee6b43eb52@mail.gmail.com>

John -

HD8 Carbs don't use throttle shaft springs, they use lever return
springs, so this is not the issue with his car.

Hope the fires have avoided your house!

Cheers!

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On 10/29/07, John Soderling <jsoderling at astound.net> wrote:
> The problem often is that the that the return springs on the carb shaft get
> weak with age and fail to return the throttle shaft all the way back to the
> stops.  Mine did this only when the car had been driven for a while and
> things were hot.  You may be able to wind the return spring tighter on the
> carb shaft.  I added a short throttle shaft lever to my shaft between the
> two carbs and added an auxiliary spring from the lever end to the
> carb-to-carb fuel line.  The extra spring now always pulls the carb shaft
> all the way back to the stops at idle.
> Vroom vrooom,
> John
> Erika the Red
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
> To: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>; "TERRY COLL" <coll44 at msn.com>
> Cc: "austin healey" <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2007 8:14 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] engine rpms
>
>
> > Alan may very well be right, another possibility is that these motors also
> > have a lot of oil in the sump that takes some time to warm up, so idle
> > speed
> > does tend to increase as the oil warms up and thins, which really does
> > take
> > a while on these cars.
> >
> > Greg Lemon
> > 54 BN1
> > _______________________________________________

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Oct 28 20:16:36 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 11:16:36 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: 991-356_Austin Healey Rear Bumper
In-Reply-To: <0c2901c817f2$db065950$6601a8c0@actualshop>
References: <0c2901c817f2$db065950$6601a8c0@actualshop>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0710282016t70f040cfg18888562a5657c17@mail.gmail.com>

Yeah, I have one of these bumpers on the back of my BJ8 and they do
suck - they don't even look right.

I actually have a perfect original which I recently rechromed, but I
am afraid to put it on the car because I know I'll never be able to
replace it.  It is a beautiful bumper with the perfect amount of
curvature and solid as a rock.

Am I weird for not putting this nice bumper on my car???

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On 10/27/07, shop at justbrits.com <shop at justbrits.com> wrote:
> Folks:
>
> As I care about quality parts for our cars AND I do care when a poor one
> arises, I contacted Kelvin and I have agreed to assist him by posting his
> replies to this List.  He is an EXTREMELY overworked and busy Gent that REALLY
> cares about LBC's (mostly MGs & we should not hold it against him<G>) and
> parts for them.  He just pkain does not have the time to even do digest
> "Lists".  His reply follows along with Charlie's post.
>
> Regards....
>
> Ed

From rkorn at simnet.is  Mon Oct 29 04:07:09 2007
From: rkorn at simnet.is (Richard Korn)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 11:07:09 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: 991-356_Austin Healey Rear Bumper
References: <0c2901c817f2$db065950$6601a8c0@actualshop>
	<ff59076c0710282016t70f040cfg18888562a5657c17@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000c01c81a1b$d9cb07e0$4001a8c0@velad>

Yes to the last question.
My BN2 bumpers were in a very sorry state and after certain expenditure on 
straightening (under concours supervision:-)and rechroming, they are perfect 
originals and look so on my not so perfect car.The worst I can think of is 
having to do them again and then I4d put them straight back on the car..
Originality, condtion but to be enjoyed.

my 2 kronur worth !!

Richard

56 BN2
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: <shop at justbrits.com>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 3:16 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: 991-356_Austin Healey Rear Bumper


> Yeah, I have one of these bumpers on the back of my BJ8 and they do
> suck - they don't even look right.
>
> I actually have a perfect original which I recently rechromed, but I
> am afraid to put it on the car because I know I'll never be able to
> replace it.  It is a beautiful bumper with the perfect amount of
> curvature and solid as a rock.
>
> Am I weird for not putting this nice bumper on my car???
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
>
>
> On 10/27/07, shop at justbrits.com <shop at justbrits.com> wrote:
>> Folks:
>>
>> As I care about quality parts for our cars AND I do care when a poor one
>> arises, I contacted Kelvin and I have agreed to assist him by posting his
>> replies to this List.  He is an EXTREMELY overworked and busy Gent that 
>> REALLY
>> cares about LBC's (mostly MGs & we should not hold it against him<G>) and
>> parts for them.  He just pkain does not have the time to even do digest
>> "Lists".  His reply follows along with Charlie's post.
>>
>> Regards....
>>
>> Ed
> _______________________________________________
> rkorn at simnet.is
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From bluechipracing at snet.net  Mon Oct 29 05:08:04 2007
From: bluechipracing at snet.net (bluechip)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 08:08:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: 991-356_Austin Healey Rear Bumper
References: <0c2901c817f2$db065950$6601a8c0@actualshop>
	<ff59076c0710282016t70f040cfg18888562a5657c17@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003201c81a24$5ccf1840$1f9bfea9@dell>

Put it on the car!  If you don't, its just a pretty peice of metal;  On the 
car, its an upgrade that will be noticed and appreciated, especially by you. 
I had my BN7 original bumpers rechromed in 1987.  After 20 years and 30,000 
miles they are still beautiful.

Jim Smith


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: <shop at justbrits.com>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 11:16 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: 991-356_Austin Healey Rear Bumper


> Yeah, I have one of these bumpers on the back of my BJ8 and they do
> suck - they don't even look right.
>
> I actually have a perfect original which I recently rechromed, but I
> am afraid to put it on the car because I know I'll never be able to
> replace it.  It is a beautiful bumper with the perfect amount of
> curvature and solid as a rock.
>
> Am I weird for not putting this nice bumper on my car???
>
> '52 A90
> '53 BN1
> '64 BJ8
>

> bluechipracing at snet.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

From dwhite4949 at wowway.com  Mon Oct 29 06:15:47 2007
From: dwhite4949 at wowway.com (Daniel and Diane White)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 09:15:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Rear bumper
Message-ID: <4725DD03.3020702@wowway.com>

I agree with Richard.  Alan, you should put that beautiful bumper on 
your Healey and enjoy the heck out of it.  Live for today for tomorrow 
we ...
Dan

From JNBrashear at garverengineers.com  Mon Oct 29 07:01:59 2007
From: JNBrashear at garverengineers.com (Brashear, Jack, N)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 09:01:59 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Choke return springs
In-Reply-To: <3E164DEE-6C71-424E-B66C-7C59CBACA9A3@ntelos.net>
Message-ID: <2D0989D186D44349BE853EE6CFC87AE6036C7BAC@glitas07.garverinc.local>

Hi All, here's what works for me:  I drilled and tapped a #6 threaded
hole in from both ends of the little block thingy where the dash control
cable and the two choke cables come together.  I just used #6 Allen head
set screws to clamp the choke cable ends tightly in place so they don't
"push back" out of the little block thingy.  My cable set up now acts as
a pull-push mechanism and everything goes right back in place, all clean
and simple.  Oh yes, I did take the little block thingy off the car to
do all this.
Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+jnbrashear=garverengineers.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+jnbrashear=garverengineers.com at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dave Schweninger
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 11:37 AM
To: Daniel and Diane White; Healeys at Autox
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Choke return springs

Dan
Try replacing the cables with motor cycle throttle cables. They are
available with teflon coated cables and teflon lined sleeves. If you
ever had a sticky throttle, clutch, or front brake cable, the
difference is startling.
  Call around and find a shop that stocks this stuff in bulk. Other
wise you will have to pay for a lot of worthless end Fittings and
adjusters.
good luck
Dave
On Oct 26, 2007, at 10:25 PM, Daniel and Diane White wrote:

> Ed,
> Thank you for the link to the tech articles.  The diagram showing
> the BJ
> 8 carbs with return spring does give me thoughts as to how I could
> do a
> similar set up.  If I can't get rid of the "drag" in the cables as
> David
> suggested, I'll definitely think about using some springs to help the
> jet tubes return to their "non-choke" position.
> Regards,
> Dan

From bstarke at telus.net  Mon Oct 29 11:43:27 2007
From: bstarke at telus.net (bstarke at telus.net)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 12:43:27 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] distributor rebuilding/windshield sealing strip info
Message-ID: <004501c81a5b$9868a4c0$4001a8c0@homeef0oqjjyyd>

Hi all, just wanted to put in a plug for Advanced Distributors (Jeff
Schlemmer)--I sent my Tricarb and  MGB distributors to Jeff for rebuilding.
they came back quickly--turn around without mailing time was only about 3
days-and they look like new and work great too. Price was reasonable as
well--&129 for the tricarb (including rebuilding the vacuum advance) and $89
for the MGB. He will set up your carb for your specifications too eg
cam/carbs/ignition etc
What a change to the driving experience with my "new" distributors!
Another plug for a supplier--I had to replace the windshield in my Tricarb and
had got the too thick seal from Moss/VB or somewhere else(don't remember where
as I bought it some years ago). Got the seal from Bob Yule at Autofarm which
is the right thickness for easy installation and which expands with oil to
seal properly--holds the windshield in place firmly with relatively easy
installation
Just a satisfied customer!
Bruce Starke
Golden BC
Tricarb-restored
BJ7--needs restoration
BN4--rusty and incomplete--may build into a rally replica in the next yeart or
two

From mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net  Mon Oct 29 12:14:26 2007
From: mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net (Mark and Kathy)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 15:14:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Last test, Promise
Message-ID: <000601c81a5f$ecb85da0$da4efc04@markl946cfrd7q>

My provider asked that someone send me a reply through the list
(reply all)  to see if it gets to my server.

thanks again,  sorry

Mark

From ahbn6 at optonline.net  Mon Oct 29 12:19:53 2007
From: ahbn6 at optonline.net (John Sims)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 15:19:53 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Last test, Promise
In-Reply-To: <000601c81a5f$ecb85da0$da4efc04@markl946cfrd7q>
References: <000601c81a5f$ecb85da0$da4efc04@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <001e01c81a60$af6c1da0$6500a8c0@simsoffice>

You should get two replies. One through the list and one direct.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com
 


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Mark and Kathy
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 3:14 PM
To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Healeys] Last test, Promise

My provider asked that someone send me a reply through the list
(reply all)  to see if it gets to my server.

thanks again,  sorry

Mark
_______________________________________________
ahbn6 at optonline.net

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From hcdodson at sbcglobal.net  Mon Oct 29 12:31:53 2007
From: hcdodson at sbcglobal.net (hcdodson)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 12:31:53 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Last test, Promise
References: <000601c81a5f$ecb85da0$da4efc04@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <00e201c81a62$5d5221c0$4001a8c0@HANKS>

Here you go.....
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark and Kathy" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
To: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 12:14 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Last test, Promise


> My provider asked that someone send me a reply through the list
> (reply all)  to see if it gets to my server.
> 
> thanks again,  sorry
> 
> Mark
> _______________________________________________
> hcdodson at sbcglobal.net 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From shop at justbrits.com  Mon Oct 29 13:50:16 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 14:50:16 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] ealeys] Last test, Promise
References: <000601c81a5f$ecb85da0$da4efc04@markl946cfrd7q>
Message-ID: <047901c81a6d$517308f0$6601a8c0@actualshop>

Me too, Mark!!    <G>

Enough????

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Oct 29 17:36:48 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 08:36:48 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Choke return springs
In-Reply-To: <2D0989D186D44349BE853EE6CFC87AE6036C7BAC@glitas07.garverinc.local>
References: <3E164DEE-6C71-424E-B66C-7C59CBACA9A3@ntelos.net>
	<2D0989D186D44349BE853EE6CFC87AE6036C7BAC@glitas07.garverinc.local>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0710291736v31b1d052j82e31d3b1e2b95b6@mail.gmail.com>

Oohh good idea!  You could probably put some sort of miniature cable
clamp on the front side of the block thingy and that would work too,
wouldn't look as nice though.


On 10/29/07, Brashear, Jack, N <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com> wrote:
> Hi All, here's what works for me:  I drilled and tapped a #6 threaded
> hole in from both ends of the little block thingy where the dash control
> cable and the two choke cables come together.  I just used #6 Allen head
> set screws to clamp the choke cable ends tightly in place so they don't
> "push back" out of the little block thingy.  My cable set up now acts as
> a pull-push mechanism and everything goes right back in place, all clean
> and simple.  Oh yes, I did take the little block thingy off the car to
> do all this.
> Jack
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+jnbrashear=garverengineers.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+jnbrashear=garverengineers.com at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Dave Schweninger
> Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 11:37 AM
> To: Daniel and Diane White; Healeys at Autox
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Choke return springs
>
> Dan
> Try replacing the cables with motor cycle throttle cables. They are
> available with teflon coated cables and teflon lined sleeves. If you
> ever had a sticky throttle, clutch, or front brake cable, the
> difference is startling.
>   Call around and find a shop that stocks this stuff in bulk. Other
> wise you will have to pay for a lot of worthless end Fittings and
> adjusters.
> good luck
> Dave
> On Oct 26, 2007, at 10:25 PM, Daniel and Diane White wrote:
>
> > Ed,
> > Thank you for the link to the tech articles.  The diagram showing
> > the BJ
> > 8 carbs with return spring does give me thoughts as to how I could
> > do a
> > similar set up.  If I can't get rid of the "drag" in the cables as
> > David
> > suggested, I'll definitely think about using some springs to help the
> > jet tubes return to their "non-choke" position.
> > Regards,
> > Dan
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Mon Oct 29 18:36:55 2007
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 21:36:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] paint color for fan shroud and water bottle bracket on bj8
Message-ID: <BAY108-W12D79058B42A0BF38AE531C8920@phx.gbl>

Hi,

I know this topic has been covered but I can't find my notes on it.

What is the color of the hand painted radiator fan shroud?  I know it is red
of some kind and I'm hoping I can find the color readily in an area that has a
limited selection of product choices.

What is the color of the bracket that holds the washer bottle on a bj8?  I
know it is a blue.  Hopefully it is some sort of Rustoleum product that I can
get readily also.

These things have been put off long enough and now is the time to
"git-r-dun".

Thanks,

George Haywood
'65 bj8
_________________________________________________________________
Climb to the top of the charts!  Play Star Shuffle:  the word scramble
challenge with star power.
http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_oct

From shop at justbrits.com  Mon Oct 29 19:07:49 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 20:07:49 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] paint color for fan shroud and water bottle bracket
 on bj8
References: <BAY108-W12D79058B42A0BF38AE531C8920@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <010701c81a99$ad5f6dd0$6601a8c0@actualshop>

Folks:

George's post (plus another that was answered privately) makes me "offer up"
the following:

1]  The Archives that are "offered up" at the bottom of every List Post are
essentially "new".  They do NOT contain all the posts from before the software
package change (Majordomo to MailMan) that Mark (MJB) has wisely instigated
(and in Healeys has completed),

2]  ALL of the OLD archives are still available at
http://www.team.net/archive/

So a simple Archive Search for a simple question like:

<<What is the color of the hand painted radiator fan shroud?>>

could be accomplished in seconds!!  -:)

So I would recommend you ALL keep this note and I hope it helps you in the
future!!

Regards...........

Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates    AH BJ 7    )

From edriver at sasktel.net  Mon Oct 29 19:10:24 2007
From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 20:10:24 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Dave Russell
Message-ID: <47269290.1060603@sasktel.net>

Hello Dave

Please contact me off the List.

Kind regards
Ed

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Mon Oct 29 19:40:21 2007
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 22:40:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] paint color for fan shroud and water bottle bracket
 on bj8
In-Reply-To: <010701c81a99$ad5f6dd0$6601a8c0@actualshop>
References: <BAY108-W12D79058B42A0BF38AE531C8920@phx.gbl>
	<010701c81a99$ad5f6dd0$6601a8c0@actualshop>
Message-ID: <BAY108-W28138B565190CDC607D8FAC8920@phx.gbl>

Hi all,

Let me "offer up" this.
Does anyone BUT ED have answers to my questions?  I hope ALL that can HELP
will respond to my "simple" questions.

Thanks,

George

> From: shop at justbrits.com> To: healeys at autox.team.net> Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007
20:07:49 -0600> Subject: Re: [Healeys] paint color for fan shroud and water
bottle bracket on bj8> > Folks:> > George's post (plus another that was
answered privately) makes me "offer up"> the following:> > 1] The Archives
that are "offered up" at the bottom of every List Post are> essentially "new".
They do NOT contain all the posts from before the software> package change
(Majordomo to MailMan) that Mark (MJB) has wisely instigated> (and in Healeys
has completed),> > 2] ALL of the OLD archives are still available at>
http://www.team.net/archive/> > So a simple Archive Search for a simple
question like:> > <<What is the color of the hand painted radiator fan
shroud?>>> > could be accomplished in seconds!! -:)> > So I would recommend
you ALL keep this note and I hope it helps you in the> future!!> >
Regards...........> > Ed> '63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates
AH BJ 7 )> _______________________________________________>
haywoodone at hotmail.com > > Healeys at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
_________________________________________________________________
Help yourself to FREE treats served up daily at the Messenger Cafi. Stop by
today.
http://www.cafemessenger.com/info/info_sweetstuff2.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_OctWLt
agline

From 63AHBJ7 at comcast.net  Mon Oct 29 20:17:15 2007
From: 63AHBJ7 at comcast.net (63AHBJ7)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 21:17:15 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] paint color for fan shroud and water bottle bracket
 on bj8
References: <BAY108-W12D79058B42A0BF38AE531C8920@phx.gbl><010701c81a99$ad5f6dd0$6601a8c0@actualshop>
	<BAY108-W28138B565190CDC607D8FAC8920@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <00e201c81aa3$5f4f67d0$6601a8c0@actualshop>

WORK (as in searching Archives) IS good for the soul, George<G>!!

Porche Guards Red is VERY close.

Available at Hobby Shops.

Did I do enough "work" for you??    LOL

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Mon Oct 29 22:09:55 2007
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 01:09:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fan shroud and washer bracket color
Message-ID: <BAY108-W300FF2E57D39E666210A41C8920@phx.gbl>

Thanks to Randy for your help.  I also found my old notes and have two paint
colors:  Red Devil semi gloss "Chinese Red" for the shroud and a Walmart paint
called "Just Enough" in the color "Blue Planet" in a shaker can.  I cannot say
who to credit for providing the Red Devil color but Rich Chrysler was kind
enough to give me the washer bottle bracket color in an email some time ago.

Thanks again,

George
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail and Microsoft Office Outlook  together at last.  Get it
now.
http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/outlook/HA102225181033.aspx?pid=CL100626971
033

From HealeyBJ7 at aol.com  Tue Oct 30 04:08:44 2007
From: HealeyBJ7 at aol.com (HealeyBJ7 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 07:08:44 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Can't get messages
Message-ID: <bbe.19737613.34586abc@aol.com>

Group,
I am an AOL user and with the new server(?) I cannot get any messages from  
the list. I tried re-subscribing last night, but got a message saying I was  
already a subscriber. Still not getting anything from the list. I remember this  
AOL thing coming up before, but since I was getting all the messages, I 
didn't  pay enough attention. Any body have any suggestions about getting this 
cleared  up?
 
Please respond directly. A reply to the list will not get to me.
Thank You,
Bob



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From Warthodson at aol.com  Tue Oct 30 06:11:44 2007
From: Warthodson at aol.com (Warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 09:11:44 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Sprite seat frames
Message-ID: <d33.182b2fd4.34588790@aol.com>

A friend is trying to locate a set of Sprite/Midget seat frames from late '65 
thru '68.
If you can help out, please contact me & I will put him in contact with you.
Thanks,
Gary Hodson



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From jarowe at westnet.com.au  Tue Oct 30 07:39:50 2007
From: jarowe at westnet.com.au (John Rowe)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 22:39:50 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] indicator lights blink too fast
Message-ID: <04c001c81b02$ba8f57e0$0200a8c0@DadP4>

Hi Guys

Lucas has finally struck 7 years after the restoration.

The indicators on the LHS blink too fast. Both front and rear lights work but
blink rapidly compared to the RHS.

I understood that if the indicators blinked too fast it meant that the load
was down and typically a bulb was out.

On inspection I noticed that the Lucas flasher unit was rated at 42watt yet
the only bulbs we can buy are 32 watt. Can you buy 42 watt bulbs in US?

Any help would be appreciated as I have only a week to go to finish preparing
the car before departure to The Classic Adelaide Rally.

regards from west oz


John Rowe
1959 3000 BT7

From aon.912808691 at aon.at  Tue Oct 30 07:08:20 2007
From: aon.912808691 at aon.at (Reinhart Rosner (aon))
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 15:08:20 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] indicator lights blink too fast
In-Reply-To: <04c001c81b02$ba8f57e0$0200a8c0@DadP4>
References: <04c001c81b02$ba8f57e0$0200a8c0@DadP4>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAKiNhN3Os8FHqW69V0RD007CgAAAEAAAACW3cDsV8HxNmffFjf5TJbQBAAAAAA==@aon.at>

John,

I had a similar problem on my 100.

First I thought of the flasher unit, but no change with a new one. It was
solved when I checked all of the bulbs and found out that they had different
watt. After I exchanged the one which was different, the problem was gone.

Good luck for The Classic Adelaide Rally.

Reinhart

Reinhart Rosner
55 AH 100 BN1
Vienna - Austria



-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces+aon.912808691=aon.at at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+aon.912808691=aon.at at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von
John Rowe
Gesendet: Dienstag, 30. Oktober 2007 15:40
An: Healey List
Betreff: [Healeys] indicator lights blink too fast

Hi Guys

Lucas has finally struck 7 years after the restoration.

The indicators on the LHS blink too fast. Both front and rear lights work
but
blink rapidly compared to the RHS.

I understood that if the indicators blinked too fast it meant that the load
was down and typically a bulb was out.

On inspection I noticed that the Lucas flasher unit was rated at 42watt yet
the only bulbs we can buy are 32 watt. Can you buy 42 watt bulbs in US?

Any help would be appreciated as I have only a week to go to finish
preparing
the car before departure to The Classic Adelaide Rally.

regards from west oz


John Rowe
1959 3000 BT7
_______________________________________________
aon.912808691 at aon.at

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From wilko2 at cox.net  Tue Oct 30 09:22:53 2007
From: wilko2 at cox.net (wilko2 at cox.net)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 9:22:53 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] paint color for fan shroud and water bottle bracket
 on bj8
In-Reply-To: <BAY108-W28138B565190CDC607D8FAC8920@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20071030122253.YTCF9.153904.root@fed1wml19>

I'll offer this:

b
Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today. Teach a man to fish; and you
have fed him for a lifetimeb


Ed helped you more than you know. Or, maybe you don't...

b
---- George Haywood <haywoodone at hotmail.com> wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Let me "offer up" this.
> Does anyone BUT ED have answers to my questions?  I hope ALL that can HELP
> will respond to my "simple" questions.
>
> Thanks,
>
> George
>
> > From: shop at justbrits.com> To: healeys at autox.team.net> Date: Mon, 29 Oct
2007
> 20:07:49 -0600> Subject: Re: [Healeys] paint color for fan shroud and water
> bottle bracket on bj8> > Folks:> > George's post (plus another that was
> answered privately) makes me "offer up"> the following:> > 1] The Archives
> that are "offered up" at the bottom of every List Post are> essentially
"new".
> They do NOT contain all the posts from before the software> package change
> (Majordomo to MailMan) that Mark (MJB) has wisely instigated> (and in
Healeys
> has completed),> > 2] ALL of the OLD archives are still available at>
> http://www.team.net/archive/> > So a simple Archive Search for a simple
> question like:> > <<What is the color of the hand painted radiator fan
> shroud?>>> > could be accomplished in seconds!! -:)> > So I would recommend
> you ALL keep this note and I hope it helps you in the> future!!> >
> Regards...........> > Ed> '63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL
plates
> AH BJ 7 )> _______________________________________________>
> haywoodone at hotmail.com > > Healeys at autox.team.net>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> _________________________________________________________________
> Help yourself to FREE treats served up daily at the Messenger Cafi. Stop by
> today.
>
http://www.cafemessenger.com/info/info_sweetstuff2.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_OctWLt
> agline
> _______________________________________________
> wilko2 at cox.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From dcongleton at embarqmail.com  Tue Oct 30 11:32:06 2007
From: dcongleton at embarqmail.com (Dallas Congleton)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 14:32:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] paint color for fan shroud and water bottle bracket
 on bj8
References: <20071030122253.YTCF9.153904.root@fed1wml19>
Message-ID: <00ab01c81b23$2ce43de0$0201a8c0@your4dacd0ea75>

I agree with the proverb, but what Ed did was "beat" him with a fish-


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <wilko2 at cox.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 12:22 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] paint color for fan shroud and water bottle bracket 
on bj8


> I'll offer this:
>
> b
Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today. Teach a man to fish; and 
> you
> have fed him for a lifetimeb

>
> Ed helped you more than you know. Or, maybe you don't...
>
> b
> ---- George Haywood <haywoodone at hotmail.com> wrote:
>> Hi all,
>>
>> Let me "offer up" this.
>> Does anyone BUT ED have answers to my questions?  I hope ALL that can 
>> HELP
>> will respond to my "simple" questions.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> George
>>
>> > From: shop at justbrits.com> To: healeys at autox.team.net> Date: Mon, 29 Oct
> 2007
>> 20:07:49 -0600> Subject: Re: [Healeys] paint color for fan shroud and 
>> water
>> bottle bracket on bj8> > Folks:> > George's post (plus another that was
>> answered privately) makes me "offer up"> the following:> > 1] The 
>> Archives
>> that are "offered up" at the bottom of every List Post are> essentially
> "new".
>> They do NOT contain all the posts from before the software> package 
>> change
>> (Majordomo to MailMan) that Mark (MJB) has wisely instigated> (and in
> Healeys
>> has completed),> > 2] ALL of the OLD archives are still available at>
>> http://www.team.net/archive/> > So a simple Archive Search for a simple
>> question like:> > <<What is the color of the hand painted radiator fan
>> shroud?>>> > could be accomplished in seconds!! -:)> > So I would 
>> recommend
>> you ALL keep this note and I hope it helps you in the> future!!> >
>> Regards...........> > Ed> '63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL
> plates
>> AH BJ 7 )> _______________________________________________>

From clocks at midcoast.com  Tue Oct 30 11:41:01 2007
From: clocks at midcoast.com (James Lea)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 14:41:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey engine for sale.
Message-ID: <00fe01c81b24$6ba42030$0201a8c0@JIM>

To those interested in the engine the serial number is 29F/RU/H4985. Can 
someone tell me what this is out of? Thanks,JL

James Lea
PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632

1951 Triumph Renown
1952 MG TD
1952 Triumph Mayflower
1958 Rover P4
1962 Austin Healey BT7 

From wilko2 at cox.net  Tue Oct 30 12:43:20 2007
From: wilko2 at cox.net (wilko2 at cox.net)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 12:43:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] paint color for fan shroud and water bottle bracket
 on bj8
In-Reply-To: <00ab01c81b23$2ce43de0$0201a8c0@your4dacd0ea75>
Message-ID: <20071030154320.PBDEG.156684.root@fed1wml19>

Maybe.

Anyway, I shuold have added something like this to my post:

You can use just about any can of "Chinese Red" or good ol' "Red" paint.
They're all close enough.

I can't help with the water bottle bracket.

Cheers.

---- Dallas Congleton <dcongleton at embarqmail.com> wrote:
> I agree with the proverb, but what Ed did was "beat" him with a fish-
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <wilko2 at cox.net>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 12:22 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] paint color for fan shroud and water bottle bracket
> on bj8
>
>
> > I'll offer this:
> >
> > b
Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today. Teach a man to fish; and
> > you
> > have fed him for a lifetimeb

> >
> > Ed helped you more than you know. Or, maybe you don't...
> >
> > b
> > ---- George Haywood <haywoodone at hotmail.com> wrote:
> >> Hi all,
> >>
> >> Let me "offer up" this.
> >> Does anyone BUT ED have answers to my questions?  I hope ALL that can
> >> HELP
> >> will respond to my "simple" questions.
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> George
> >>
> >> > From: shop at justbrits.com> To: healeys at autox.team.net> Date: Mon, 29
Oct
> > 2007
> >> 20:07:49 -0600> Subject: Re: [Healeys] paint color for fan shroud and
> >> water
> >> bottle bracket on bj8> > Folks:> > George's post (plus another that was
> >> answered privately) makes me "offer up"> the following:> > 1] The
> >> Archives
> >> that are "offered up" at the bottom of every List Post are> essentially
> > "new".
> >> They do NOT contain all the posts from before the software> package
> >> change
> >> (Majordomo to MailMan) that Mark (MJB) has wisely instigated> (and in
> > Healeys
> >> has completed),> > 2] ALL of the OLD archives are still available at>
> >> http://www.team.net/archive/> > So a simple Archive Search for a simple
> >> question like:> > <<What is the color of the hand painted radiator fan
> >> shroud?>>> > could be accomplished in seconds!! -:)> > So I would
> >> recommend
> >> you ALL keep this note and I hope it helps you in the> future!!> >
> >> Regards...........> > Ed> '63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL
> > plates
> >> AH BJ 7 )> _______________________________________________>

From rd_parker at juno.com  Tue Oct 30 12:49:02 2007
From: rd_parker at juno.com (rd_parker at juno.com)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 19:49:02 GMT
Subject: [Healeys] paint color for fan shroud and water bottle bracket
 on b j8
Message-ID: <20071030.124902.28485.1@webmail03.vgs.untd.com>

One thing is for sure, you can tune a guitar, but you can't tuna fish.

From jstmorris at yahoo.com  Tue Oct 30 12:53:55 2007
From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 15:53:55 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Healey engine for sale.
In-Reply-To: <00fe01c81b24$6ba42030$0201a8c0@JIM>
Message-ID: <805372.29221.qm@web30303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi James;  It is from a MkII BJ7 with overdrive and centre change transmission.
  --Scott Morris, Simcoe, Ontario, Canada

James Lea <clocks at midcoast.com> wrote: << To those interested in the engine the serial number is 29F/RU/H4985. Can someone tell me what this is out of? >>


J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
       
---------------------------------
Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail  

From Jnhorn at aol.com  Tue Oct 30 13:00:33 2007
From: Jnhorn at aol.com (Jnhorn at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 16:00:33 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Healey engine for sale.
Message-ID: <bc3.1caa48dd.3458e761@aol.com>

Is this engine for sale? Who has the details?

jon einhorn

BJ8 (2)
BJ7
100-6






**************************************
 See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From ahbn6 at optonline.net  Tue Oct 30 14:11:29 2007
From: ahbn6 at optonline.net (John Sims)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 17:11:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] paint color for fan shroud and water bottle bracket
 on bj8
In-Reply-To: <20071030154320.PBDEG.156684.root@fed1wml19>
References: <00ab01c81b23$2ce43de0$0201a8c0@your4dacd0ea75>
	<20071030154320.PBDEG.156684.root@fed1wml19>
Message-ID: <007801c81b39$73a04bf0$6500a8c0@simsoffice>

I may be wrong but I was told some time ago that it is Ford Engine Red which
is available at most of the auto parts stores. Correct me, please, if I am
incorrect.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
www.healey6.com
 


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
wilko2 at cox.net
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 3:43 PM
To: Dallas Congleton; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] paint color for fan shroud and water bottle bracket
on bj8

Maybe.

Anyway, I shuold have added something like this to my post:

You can use just about any can of "Chinese Red" or good ol' "Red" paint.
They're all close enough.

I can't help with the water bottle bracket.

Cheers.

---- Dallas Congleton <dcongleton at embarqmail.com> wrote:
> I agree with the proverb, but what Ed did was "beat" him with a fish-
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <wilko2 at cox.net>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 12:22 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] paint color for fan shroud and water bottle bracket
> on bj8

From clocks at midcoast.com  Tue Oct 30 14:40:28 2007
From: clocks at midcoast.com (James Lea)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 17:40:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey engine for sale.
References: <805372.29221.qm@web30303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <00d701c81b3d$7d5b4e70$0201a8c0@JIM>

Scott. I have a MK II BT7 with overdrive and center change trans. Was the 
engine in a BT7 and a BJ7 different? Cheers, JL

James Lea
PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632

1951 Triumph Renown
1952 MG TD
1952 Triumph Mayflower
1958 Rover P4
1962 Austin Healey BT7 

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Tue Oct 30 15:26:39 2007
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 18:26:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey engine for sale.
References: <805372.29221.qm@web30303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<00d701c81b3d$7d5b4e70$0201a8c0@JIM>
Message-ID: <00fb01c81b43$f14a5b40$0471a8c0@ophrdc.org>

James, et al,

The engine for a BT7 Mk 2 and BN7 Mk 2 (both tricarbs) were prefixed 29E, 
while the BJ7 Mk 2 was prefixed with 29F.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
To: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>; "List Healeys" 
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 5:40 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey engine for sale.


> Scott. I have a MK II BT7 with overdrive and center change trans. Was the
> engine in a BT7 and a BJ7 different? Cheers, JL
>
> James Lea
> PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
>
> 1951 Triumph Renown
> 1952 MG TD
> 1952 Triumph Mayflower
> 1958 Rover P4
> 1962 Austin Healey BT7
> _______________________________________________
> richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

From hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk  Tue Oct 30 15:30:24 2007
From: hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk (mike brooks)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 15:30:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Re -  indicator lights blink too fast
Message-ID: <104502.28256.qm@web34213.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi John,

The flasher unit is rated at 42Watts because each bulb should be
21Watts (2 X 21 = 42). Other wattages (either more or less) will affect the
flash rate on these electromechanical flasher units. Modern ones are
electronic and the flash rate is unaffected by the bulb wattage. As far as I
know all replacements flasher units sold for the Healeys are the old
electromechanical type.

Incidentally, the early cars (certainly the 100) were
fitted with 36 Watt flasher units, when the available bulbs were 18 Watt.
Regards

Mike Brooks
'56 BN2
Milano, Italy

[Healeys] indicator lights blink
too fast

Hi Guys

Lucas has finally struck 7 years after the restoration.
The indicators on the LHS blink too fast. Both front and rear lights work
but
blink rapidly compared to the RHS.

I understood that if the indicators
blinked too fast it meant that the load
was down and typically a bulb was out.
On inspection I noticed that the Lucas flasher unit was rated at 42watt yet
the only bulbs we can buy are 32 watt. Can you buy 42 watt bulbs in US?

Any
help would be appreciated as I have only a week to go to finish
preparing
the
car before departure to The Classic Adelaide Rally.

regards from west oz
John Rowe
1959 3000 BT7
_______________________________________________

From jstmorris at yahoo.com  Tue Oct 30 15:31:54 2007
From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 18:31:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Healey engine for sale.
In-Reply-To: <00d701c81b3d$7d5b4e70$0201a8c0@JIM>
Message-ID: <240869.39827.qm@web30309.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello James;  
   
  I also have a '62 MkII BT7 with overdrive and centre change transmission: HBT7-L/17769  &  29E-RU-H/4131  which was acquired in 1984. [Yes, I have registered with the Tri-Carb Registry]
   
  There were a number of  'C' Series engines in the 3000.
  Mk   I       29D
  Mk  II       29E
  Mk  IIA    29F  BJ7
  Mk III       29K  BJ8 Phase 1 & 2
  This list excludes the engines for export to France.
   
  The 29F included 2 carbs, new crankshaft main bearings, new type of Tecalemit oil filter, new camshaft and outer valve springs, etc. Full details can be found in Clausager's "Original Austin-Healey".  Start with page 89.
   
  If you wish more information or details, let me know and I'll see what I can did up.
   
  --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada; 3000s - '60 MkI BN7 & '62 MkII BT7
  
James Lea <clocks at midcoast.com> wrote: << Scott. I have a MK II BT7 with overdrive and centre change trans. Was the engine in a BT7 and a BJ7 different? Cheers, JL >>


J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
       
---------------------------------
Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail  

From haywoodone at hotmail.com  Tue Oct 30 15:49:55 2007
From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 18:49:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] paint color for fan shroud and water bottle bracket
 on bj8
In-Reply-To: <007801c81b39$73a04bf0$6500a8c0@simsoffice>
References: <00ab01c81b23$2ce43de0$0201a8c0@your4dacd0ea75>
	<20071030154320.PBDEG.156684.root@fed1wml19> 
	<007801c81b39$73a04bf0$6500a8c0@simsoffice>
Message-ID: <BAY108-W3923340DB87C4D752EBEC8C8920@phx.gbl>

I'd like to thank everyone for all their comments and suggestions.  Even
though it's not Friday a little humor is always welcome.

Take care everyone,

George> Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 17:11:29 -0400> From: ahbn6 at optonline.net> To:
wilko2 at cox.net; dcongleton at embarqmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net> Subject:
Re: [Healeys] paint color for fan shroud and water bottle bracket on bj8> > I
may be wrong but I was told some time ago that it is Ford Engine Red which> is
available at most of the auto parts stores. Correct me, please, if I am>
incorrect.> > John Sims, BN6> Aberdeen, NJ> > www.healey6.com> > > >
-----Original Message-----> From:
healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net>
[mailto:healeys-bounces+ahbn6=optonline.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of>
wilko2 at cox.net> Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 3:43 PM> To: Dallas Congleton;
healeys at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [Healeys] paint color for fan shroud and
water bottle bracket> on bj8> > Maybe.> > Anyway, I shuold have added
something like this to my post:> > You can use just about any can of "Chinese
Red" or good ol' "Red" paint.> They're all close enough.> > I can't help with
the water bottle bracket.> > Cheers.> > ---- Dallas Congleton
<dcongleton at embarqmail.com> wrote:> > I agree with the proverb, but what Ed
did was "beat" him with a fish-> >> >> > ----- Original Message -----> > From:
<wilko2 at cox.net>> > To: <healeys at autox.team.net>> > Sent: Tuesday, October 30,
2007 12:22 PM> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] paint color for fan shroud and water
bottle bracket> > on bj8> _______________________________________________>
haywoodone at hotmail.com > > Healeys at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
_________________________________________________________________
Climb to the top of the charts!  Play Star Shuffle:  the word scramble
challenge with star power.
http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_oct

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Oct 30 15:54:39 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 06:54:39 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] indicator lights blink too fast
In-Reply-To: <04c001c81b02$ba8f57e0$0200a8c0@DadP4>
References: <04c001c81b02$ba8f57e0$0200a8c0@DadP4>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0710301554g3f18fcb1ke9f19742a683630e@mail.gmail.com>

John -

Use a modern flasher unit and you won't have this problem.  You can
swap out the Lucas guts out of the Lucas can with the modern guts if
you want it to look original.

Alan



On 10/30/07, John Rowe <jarowe at westnet.com.au> wrote:
> Hi Guys
>
> Lucas has finally struck 7 years after the restoration.
>
> The indicators on the LHS blink too fast. Both front and rear lights work
> but
> blink rapidly compared to the RHS.
>
> I understood that if the indicators blinked too fast it meant that the load
> was down and typically a bulb was out.
>
> On inspection I noticed that the Lucas flasher unit was rated at 42watt yet
> the only bulbs we can buy are 32 watt. Can you buy 42 watt bulbs in US?
>
> Any help would be appreciated as I have only a week to go to finish
> preparing
> the car before departure to The Classic Adelaide Rally.
>
> regards from west oz
>
>
> John Rowe
> 1959 3000 BT7
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From ynotink at msn.com  Tue Oct 30 16:21:19 2007
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 23:21:19 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] paint color for fan shroud and water bottle bracket
 on bj8
In-Reply-To: <20071030122253.YTCF9.153904.root@fed1wml19>
Message-ID: <BAY101-F409AED4003C1957B5AFE0FA5920@phx.gbl>

Archives are nice I suppose, but I never use them. I just like to be able to 
pop in now and then to see what is happening in the Healey universe. It 
seems that some questions are too mundane for anyone to take an interest. On 
the other hand some topics seem to last forever. If the whole group has 
become too bored or jaded to be bothered to answer simple questions what do 
we have to talk about?

Bill Lawrence
Albuquerque, NM

From dwhite4949 at wowway.com  Tue Oct 30 16:32:10 2007
From: dwhite4949 at wowway.com (Daniel and Diane White)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 19:32:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Re paint color etc
Message-ID: <4727BEFA.5040803@wowway.com>

Bill,
You really know how to stir the pot!
Dan

From dwhite4949 at wowway.com  Tue Oct 30 17:09:25 2007
From: dwhite4949 at wowway.com (Daniel and Diane White)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 20:09:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Bowden control cables
Message-ID: <4727C7B5.3080408@wowway.com>

Listers,
While I was researching control cables I came across the site shown 
below.  It gives the basics of control cables and the details on how to 
make your own if you wish.  Sorry, you'll have to type in the web site 
rather than clicking on the link.

http://www.dansmc.com/cables.htm

Dan White
1962 BN7 Mk II

From richchrysler at quickclic.net  Tue Oct 30 17:19:09 2007
From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich C)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 20:19:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] paint color for fan shroud and water bottle bracket
 on bj8
References: <BAY101-F409AED4003C1957B5AFE0FA5920@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <013e01c81b53$a8341440$0471a8c0@ophrdc.org>

Hi Bill,

I know we've flogged this thing far too long, but for those of us who look 
at this list every day and try to help where we can, I can assure you there 
are some questions that pop up about every 3 or 4 weeks. Thank goodness we 
have an archive or I'm sure we'd be wading through these common questions a 
lot more than we do now.
As for answering the rad shroud paint colour, "Chinese Red" may be different 
depending on brand of paint and regional availability. Here in Canada we 
have a brand of paint called "Tremclad" and I use their Chinese Red. Close 
enough, and I'm a Concours judge.
As for the washer bottle bracket for BJ8's I use a Walmart paint called 
"Just Enough" in the color "Blue Planet" in a small shaker can. Again, I've 
heard feedback from others stating they can't find that in their regional 
stores.

Rich Chrysler

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" <ynotink at msn.com>
To: <wilko2 at cox.net>; <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 7:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] paint color for fan shroud and water bottle bracket 
on bj8


> Archives are nice I suppose, but I never use them. I just like to be able 
> to
> pop in now and then to see what is happening in the Healey universe. It
> seems that some questions are too mundane for anyone to take an interest. 
> On
> the other hand some topics seem to last forever. If the whole group has
> become too bored or jaded to be bothered to answer simple questions what 
> do
> we have to talk about?
>
> Bill Lawrence
> Albuquerque, NM
> _______________________________________________
> richchrysler at quickclic.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Oct 30 17:11:25 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 08:11:25 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] paint color for fan shroud and water bottle bracket
 on bj8
In-Reply-To: <BAY101-F409AED4003C1957B5AFE0FA5920@phx.gbl>
References: <20071030122253.YTCF9.153904.root@fed1wml19>
	<BAY101-F409AED4003C1957B5AFE0FA5920@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0710301711g28241ba6xc398f3dc37f68be0@mail.gmail.com>

Bill -

In your experience, do most people "forget to make a left at Albuquerque?"

Alan


On 10/31/07, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:
> Archives are nice I suppose, but I never use them. I just like to be able to
> pop in now and then to see what is happening in the Healey universe. It
> seems that some questions are too mundane for anyone to take an interest. On
> the other hand some topics seem to last forever. If the whole group has
> become too bored or jaded to be bothered to answer simple questions what do
> we have to talk about?
>
> Bill Lawrence
> Albuquerque, NM
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From michaelgladwin at mac.com  Tue Oct 30 17:26:01 2007
From: michaelgladwin at mac.com (Michael Gladwin)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 20:26:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Hylomar
Message-ID: <AB618C91-B984-4C1E-8FED-A3421B3B0981@mac.com>

There was a recent thread about difficulty in obtaining Hylomar, so I  
did a little research of my own.  Background: Hylomar is a non  
setting sealant developed to a Rolls-Royce R&D specification.  I can  
confirm from my 43 years with Rolls-Royce that it is used a great  
deal in military aero engines, and it works very well. Hylomar web  
site data shown below.

US military repair bases that look after RR aero engines have  
certified an alternative -- Permatex 1372, presumably because it was  
cheaper and more easily available in US.  Reports are that in many  
years of operation there have been no leaks as a result of sealant  
failure.

Hylomar is still available in UK and there is a later automotive  
version  - Hylomar Universal Blue Racing Formula Gasket & Jointing  
Compound

 From web site
"SQ32 was the original name of the R&D program at Rolls Royce that  
led to the development of Hylomar Universal Blue. PL32 was the  
original product name, and was available in Medium (PL32M), Light  
(PL32L), and Heavy (PL32H) grades. Hylomar Aerograde superseded these  
grades in 1985, but the references were retained in some  
specifications."

Hope this helps, at least you can seal some of the leaks.  But then,  
what will happen to the built-in Healey oxidation retardation liquid  
dispersal system (HORLDS)

Mike Gladwin
BT7 II Tricarb

From 63ahbj7 at gmail.com  Tue Oct 30 19:46:16 2007
From: 63ahbj7 at gmail.com (63AHBJ7)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 20:46:16 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] paint color for fan shroud and water bottle bracket
 on bj8
References: <20071030122253.YTCF9.153904.root@fed1wml19><BAY101-F409AED4003C1957B5AFE0FA5920@phx.gbl>
	<ff59076c0710301711g28241ba6xc398f3dc37f68be0@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <042b01c81b68$3695e100$6601a8c0@actualshop>

<<In your experience, do most people "forget to make a left at
Albuquerque?">>

Good grief NO, Alan!!

Beside Bill, the 8th wonder of the world is there!!!  Margaret Lucas!!!

<VBG>

From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net  Tue Oct 30 20:29:40 2007
From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 20:29:40 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Hylomar
References: <AB618C91-B984-4C1E-8FED-A3421B3B0981@mac.com>
Message-ID: <032901c81b6e$460515b0$6501a8c0@XPS400>

Actually, I also did a lot of investigation on Hylomar.  The product we were 
using from Permatex is still available under a different name.  It is the 
"Advanced Formula Hylomar".  It is distributed by a number of dealers in the 
U.S. and abroad.  I just purchased several tubes.  I can testify that it is 
the same as the old Permatex.  It never dries out and never becomes hard. 
It is not the same stuff sold by Moss.  I believe the product sold by Moss 
(in my opinion after trying a tube) is "Universal Blue".

I purchased my tubes recently from a Los Angeles based speed shop who 
ordered it from Valco Cincinnati.  If you contact Valco they will give you a 
list of distributors to buy from.  Just be sure you specify "Advanced 
Formula Hylomar".

Below are some of my email exchanges with the distributors.  If you need 
more information, just ask me.

Ron Fine


-----Original Message-----
From: Lloyd Sturtevant [mailto:Lloyd.Sturtevant at Valcocincinnatiinc.com]
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 5:51 PM
To: Dan.Goforth at Valcocincinnatiinc.com
Subject: RE: Hylomar


Ron,


If the container is Valco labeled it is Universal Blue. We also Have in 
Hylomar labeled containers Racing, Advanced formula, and Aerograde. If that 
confuses the issue further, please call Margaret Meeks @ 800-788-3865 and I'm 
sure she can answer any questions.


Lloyd A. Sturtevant

Sales Manager

Valco Cincinnati CP, Inc.

411 Circle Freeway Drive

Cincinnati, OH 45246

Phone: 513.874.6550

Fax: 513.874.1424

Cell: 513-314-4392

Email: lloyd at valcocp.com

www.valco-cp.com

Ron

The closest distributor I have to Los Angeles is Amrac Corporation in Norco. 
Their telephone number is 800-418-9573.  If they do not have it in stock, 
they can get it in for you.

If I can be of further assistance, please contact me.

Thanks.

Margaret Meeks
Customer Service Manager
Valco Cincinnati Consumer Products Inc.

margaret at valcocp.com
800-788-3865 ext 254

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Tue Oct 30 20:43:19 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 22:43:19 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] SOS '07
Message-ID: <001601c81b70$2fae7a70$8f0b6f50$@com>

One project for SOS '07 that we might consider is the disassembly of a very
interesting race car I picked up last winter. It's a Bugeye with an
extensive West Coast history. I have log books showing 119 races from the
early 70's to the 90's. It was originally raced by Mike Mayon and
motorsports hall of fame member Elliott Forbes Robinson. See
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elliott_Forbes-Robinson. The next owner was
Dwayne Anderson, who worked with Carroll Shelby during the Can Am years.

 

This is a historically significant car, and will be somewhat of an
automotive archeological dig.

 

WST

 

 

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From ynotink at msn.com  Tue Oct 30 21:33:58 2007
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 04:33:58 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] paint color for fan shroud and water bottle bracket
 on bj8
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0710301711g28241ba6xc398f3dc37f68be0@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY101-F329868DA846C34C27BC6C0A5930@phx.gbl>

That's Albakoykie if ya don't mind Doc.

Bill Lawrence


>From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
>To: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" <ynotink at msn.com>, wilko2 at cox.net, 
>healeys at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] paint color for fan shroud and water bottle bracket 
>on bj8
>Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 08:11:25 +0800
>
>Bill -
>
>In your experience, do most people "forget to make a left at Albuquerque?"
>
>Alan
>
>
>On 10/31/07, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:
> > Archives are nice I suppose, but I never use them. I just like to be 
>able to
> > pop in now and then to see what is happening in the Healey universe. It
> > seems that some questions are too mundane for anyone to take an 
>interest. On
> > the other hand some topics seem to last forever. If the whole group has
> > become too bored or jaded to be bothered to answer simple questions what 
>do
> > we have to talk about?
> >
> > Bill Lawrence
> > Albuquerque, NM
> > _______________________________________________
> > healey.nut at gmail.com
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
>
>
>--
>Alan
>
>'52 A90
>'53 BN1
>'64 BJ8

From ynotink at msn.com  Tue Oct 30 21:40:07 2007
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 04:40:07 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] paint color for fan shroud and water bottle bracket
 on bj8
In-Reply-To: <042b01c81b68$3695e100$6601a8c0@actualshop>
Message-ID: <BAY101-F38E88BD93C57075CADA452A5930@phx.gbl>

That's right and it reminds me I need some instrument work done...


>From: "63AHBJ7" <63ahbj7 at gmail.com>
>To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] paint color for fan shroud and water bottle bracket 
>on bj8
>Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 20:46:16 -0600
>
><<In your experience, do most people "forget to make a left at
>Albuquerque?">>
>
>Good grief NO, Alan!!
>
>Beside Bill, the 8th wonder of the world is there!!!  Margaret Lucas!!!
>
><VBG>
>_______________________________________________
>ynotink at msn.com
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From pieterscheen at optusnet.com.au  Wed Oct 31 00:12:51 2007
From: pieterscheen at optusnet.com.au (Pieter and Linda Scheenhouwer)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 17:12:51 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] USA time
Message-ID: <200710310712.l9V7CpH4013371@mail35.syd.optusnet.com.au>

So I was browsing the rear view mirror pedestals on the  Moss sale items at
work today when a (female, blond) colleague asked me what they where for. I
explained and since the healey doesn't have a clock I am going to purchase
one with a clock. She replies" but one from the States would be no good, it
would be on USA time wouldn't it". I rest my case!

Pieter

BJ7

OZ 

From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk  Wed Oct 31 01:19:20 2007
From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 08:19:20 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] indicator lights blink too fast
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0710301554g3f18fcb1ke9f19742a683630e@mail.gmail.com>
References: <04c001c81b02$ba8f57e0$0200a8c0@DadP4>
	<ff59076c0710301554g3f18fcb1ke9f19742a683630e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6PwJOdCIqDKHFwAM@jharper.demon.co.uk>

Alan

The only problem with this is that with many modern units there is no 
provision for identifying a bulb (lamp) failure. Could be a little 
dangerous if you thought that you had indicated correctly but another 
driver had not seen anything.

Regards

>
>Use a modern flasher unit and you won't have this problem.  You can
>swap out the Lucas guts out of the Lucas can with the modern guts if
>you want it to look original.
>
>Alan
>
>
>
>On 10/30/07, John Rowe <jarowe at westnet.com.au> wrote:
>> Hi Guys
>>
>> Lucas has finally struck 7 years after the restoration.
>>
>> The indicators on the LHS blink too fast. Both front and rear lights work
>> but
>> blink rapidly compared to the RHS.
>>
>> I understood that if the indicators blinked too fast it meant that the load
>> was down and typically a bulb was out.
>>
>> On inspection I noticed that the Lucas flasher unit was rated at 42watt yet
>> the only bulbs we can buy are 32 watt. Can you buy 42 watt bulbs in US?
>>
>> Any help would be appreciated as I have only a week to go to finish
>> preparing
>> the car before departure to The Classic Adelaide Rally.
>>
>> regards from west oz
>>
>>
>> John Rowe
>> 1959 3000 BT7

-- 
John Harper

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Wed Oct 31 02:20:13 2007
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 20:20:13 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] USA time
In-Reply-To: <200710310712.l9V7CpH4013371@mail35.syd.optusnet.com.au>
References: <200710310712.l9V7CpH4013371@mail35.syd.optusnet.com.au>
Message-ID: <000d01c81b9f$3eabb6d0$4001a8c0@ibm45xm8v45fmw>

G'day Pieter

Sometimes even blondes say things that contain more truth than you would
expect.

Perhaps someone can explain this for me?

I have a Barbie Healey with a digital clock but it will not work in
Australia. Getting over the difference between the 110v in the US and our
240v isn't a problem but I am told that the gizmo (technical term) that
controls the clock is set for US settings and won't work here.

Am I blonde or is there some technical thing that is quite beyond me?

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia 

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+p_cquinn=tpg.com.au at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+p_cquinn=tpg.com.au at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Pieter and Linda Scheenhouwer
Sent: Wednesday, 31 October 2007 6:13 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] USA time

So I was browsing the rear view mirror pedestals on the  Moss sale items at
work today when a (female, blond) colleague asked me what they where for. I
explained and since the healey doesn't have a clock I am going to purchase
one with a clock. She replies" but one from the States would be no good, it
would be on USA time wouldn't it". I rest my case!

Pieter

BJ7

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Oct 31 03:05:54 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 18:05:54 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] indicator lights blink too fast
In-Reply-To: <6PwJOdCIqDKHFwAM@jharper.demon.co.uk>
References: <04c001c81b02$ba8f57e0$0200a8c0@DadP4>
	<ff59076c0710301554g3f18fcb1ke9f19742a683630e@mail.gmail.com>
	<6PwJOdCIqDKHFwAM@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0710310305q7c5dae86uc00e74ee16ef780@mail.gmail.com>

John -

You are definitely right, but I think doing a visual inspection of the
indicator light regularly is the best insurance policy.  Might as well
have a flasher that works right all the time!

Alan

On 10/31/07, John Harper <ah at jharper.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>
> Alan
>
> The only problem with this is that with many modern units there is no
> provision for identifying a bulb (lamp) failure. Could be a little
> dangerous if you thought that you had indicated correctly but another
> driver had not seen anything.
>
> Regards
>
> >
> >Use a modern flasher unit and you won't have this problem.  You can
> >swap out the Lucas guts out of the Lucas can with the modern guts if
> >you want it to look original.
> >
> >Alan

From gbrierton at hotmail.com  Wed Oct 31 03:10:48 2007
From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (G. Brierton)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 06:10:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] USA time
References: <200710310712.l9V7CpH4013371@mail35.syd.optusnet.com.au>
	<000d01c81b9f$3eabb6d0$4001a8c0@ibm45xm8v45fmw>
Message-ID: <BLU107-DAV11E2F3080CFDECAB470093B3930@phx.gbl>

Mike Schneider!
Can you shed any light on this clock question??
GaryB

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>
To: "'Pieter and Linda Scheenhouwer'" <pieterscheen at optusnet.com.au>; 
"'Healey List'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 5:20 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] USA time


> G'day Pieter
>
> Sometimes even blondes say things that contain more truth than you would
> expect.
>
> Perhaps someone can explain this for me?
>
> I have a Barbie Healey with a digital clock but it will not work in
> Australia. Getting over the difference between the 110v in the US and our
> 240v isn't a problem but I am told that the gizmo (technical term) that
> controls the clock is set for US settings and won't work here.
>
> Am I blonde or is there some technical thing that is quite beyond me?
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+p_cquinn=tpg.com.au at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+p_cquinn=tpg.com.au at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> Pieter and Linda Scheenhouwer
> Sent: Wednesday, 31 October 2007 6:13 PM
> To: Healey List
> Subject: [Healeys] USA time
>
> So I was browsing the rear view mirror pedestals on the  Moss sale items 
> at
> work today when a (female, blond) colleague asked me what they where for. 
> I
> explained and since the healey doesn't have a clock I am going to purchase
> one with a clock. She replies" but one from the States would be no good, 
> it
> would be on USA time wouldn't it". I rest my case!
>
> Pieter
>
> BJ7
> _______________________________________________
> gbrierton at hotmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Oct 31 03:38:18 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 18:38:18 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] USA time
In-Reply-To: <000d01c81b9f$3eabb6d0$4001a8c0@ibm45xm8v45fmw>
References: <200710310712.l9V7CpH4013371@mail35.syd.optusnet.com.au>
	<000d01c81b9f$3eabb6d0$4001a8c0@ibm45xm8v45fmw>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0710310338s3c34cbb1i8a0f968dec1f6fe1@mail.gmail.com>

Patrick -

That's because you are Down Under, which means the digital display is
upside down.  You need to turn your barbie-clock upside down and then
it will work correctly.

You should also check to see if the "on" button is... switched on....

Alan

On 10/31/07, Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:
> G'day Pieter
>
> Sometimes even blondes say things that contain more truth than you would
> expect.
>
> Perhaps someone can explain this for me?
>
> I have a Barbie Healey with a digital clock but it will not work in
> Australia. Getting over the difference between the 110v in the US and our
> 240v isn't a problem but I am told that the gizmo (technical term) that
> controls the clock is set for US settings and won't work here.
>
> Am I blonde or is there some technical thing that is quite beyond me?
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Wed Oct 31 03:48:46 2007
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 21:48:46 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] USA time
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0710310338s3c34cbb1i8a0f968dec1f6fe1@mail.gmail.com>
References: <200710310712.l9V7CpH4013371@mail35.syd.optusnet.com.au>
	<000d01c81b9f$3eabb6d0$4001a8c0@ibm45xm8v45fmw>
	<ff59076c0710310338s3c34cbb1i8a0f968dec1f6fe1@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001801c81bab$9d729970$4001a8c0@ibm45xm8v45fmw>

G'day

That probably explains why I have the gravel rash on the top of my head. 

If I were to turn the clock arse about face then the electrons would fall
upwards.

I think it's got something to do with Hertz Rent-a-Car. Whatever a Hertz is.
Perhaps Stanley Lucas will know - Joseph's long lost brother who ran away to
Japan when he was just 22 and started the Stanley Electric Group.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
yendyS, ailartsuA 

-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, 31 October 2007 9:38 PM
To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn
Cc: Pieter and Linda Scheenhouwer; Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] USA time

Patrick -

That's because you are Down Under, which means the digital display is
upside down.  You need to turn your barbie-clock upside down and then
it will work correctly.

You should also check to see if the "on" button is... switched on....

Alan

On 10/31/07, Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:
> G'day Pieter
>
> Sometimes even blondes say things that contain more truth than you would
> expect.
>
> Perhaps someone can explain this for me?
>
> I have a Barbie Healey with a digital clock but it will not work in
> Australia. Getting over the difference between the 110v in the US and our
> 240v isn't a problem but I am told that the gizmo (technical term) that
> controls the clock is set for US settings and won't work here.
>
> Am I blonde or is there some technical thing that is quite beyond me?
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Wed Oct 31 03:52:57 2007
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken))
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 11:52:57 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] USA time
In-Reply-To: <000d01c81b9f$3eabb6d0$4001a8c0@ibm45xm8v45fmw>
References: <200710310712.l9V7CpH4013371@mail35.syd.optusnet.com.au>
	<000d01c81b9f$3eabb6d0$4001a8c0@ibm45xm8v45fmw>
Message-ID: <00e701c81bac$32ac80f0$980582d0$@com>

Patrick,

I can only imagine that this clock is set remotely by a transmitter. We have
this kind of transmitter here in Germany. The antenna is near the city of
Frankfurt and the signal can be received within about 600 miles, which is, I
believe, nearly the whole territory of Germany.

It is not uncommon for digital radio clocks you buy over here that you
cannot adjust them manually, but you have to rely on the signal from
Frankfurt, which is BTW very reliable and accurate.

Maybe they have the same system in the US, which for obvious reasons
(frequency) won't work down under.

Eric, Germany
http://brits-n-pieces.com


Patrick and Caroline Quinn wrote:

G'day Pieter

Sometimes even blondes say things that contain more truth than you would
expect.

Perhaps someone can explain this for me?

I have a Barbie Healey with a digital clock but it will not work in
Australia. Getting over the difference between the 110v in the US and our
240v isn't a problem but I am told that the gizmo (technical term) that
controls the clock is set for US settings and won't work here.

Am I blonde or is there some technical thing that is quite beyond me?

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia 

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+p_cquinn=tpg.com.au at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+p_cquinn=tpg.com.au at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Pieter and Linda Scheenhouwer
Sent: Wednesday, 31 October 2007 6:13 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] USA time

So I was browsing the rear view mirror pedestals on the  Moss sale items at
work today when a (female, blond) colleague asked me what they where for. I
explained and since the healey doesn't have a clock I am going to purchase
one with a clock. She replies" but one from the States would be no good, it
would be on USA time wouldn't it". I rest my case!

Pieter

BJ7

From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk  Wed Oct 31 04:29:59 2007
From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 11:29:59 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] USA time
In-Reply-To: <00e701c81bac$32ac80f0$980582d0$@com>
References: <200710310712.l9V7CpH4013371@mail35.syd.optusnet.com.au>
	<000d01c81b9f$3eabb6d0$4001a8c0@ibm45xm8v45fmw>
	<00e701c81bac$32ac80f0$980582d0$@com>
Message-ID: <H7vGzyG3cGKHFwUl@jharper.demon.co.uk>

Eric

There is a similar system here in the UK. It used to be on transmitters 
near Rugby and the system often became called a Rugby Clock. However the 
transmitters used are now in the Lake District but a travelling clock of 
mine still received signal in Holland OK. I also have other clocks at 
home that use this system and some can be set by hand if no signal was 
received. For example I had one near copper central heating pipes. I had 
to move it before it would work 'automatically'.

Regards

>Patrick,
>
>I can only imagine that this clock is set remotely by a transmitter. We have
>this kind of transmitter here in Germany. The antenna is near the city of
>Frankfurt and the signal can be received within about 600 miles, which is, I
>believe, nearly the whole territory of Germany.
>
>It is not uncommon for digital radio clocks you buy over here that you
>cannot adjust them manually, but you have to rely on the signal from
>Frankfurt, which is BTW very reliable and accurate.
>
>Maybe they have the same system in the US, which for obvious reasons
>(frequency) won't work down under.
>
>Eric, Germany
>http://brits-n-pieces.com
>
>
-- 
John Harper

From wsthompson at thicko.com  Wed Oct 31 05:41:31 2007
From: wsthompson at thicko.com (Wm. Severin Thompson)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 07:41:31 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] SOS '07 EFR
Message-ID: <003201c81bbb$5f1539c0$1d3fad40$@com>

Hey y'all,

 

http://www.caranddriver.com/features/11372/sport-renaissance-man.html

 

Nice article on Elliott Forbes Robinson. I know he raced 2 Sprites early.
The first is mentioned as having belonged to his father. That car was
autocrossed by Elliott and his sisters. The car pictured in this article is
the 2nd, and was owned/prepared by EFR and Mike Mayon. That is the car I
own. Unfortunately the trick wheels were traded off years ago. I'd love to
find a set of those. if any of you know where I might find a set.

 

SOS '07 will be the Fri & Sat. following Thanksgiving. Nov. 23 & 24. The
Thicko International World Headquarters are located at the Dream Farm. a 10
acre farm between Fond du Lac & Oshkosh Wisconsin.  We're smack dab in the
middle of dairy farm country. The Thicko shop (yes, it is also known as the
"homo club" ) is well lit, and well heated, should the weather be crap, as
it often is that time of year, we'll be comfortable. We have plenty of
parking.

 

 

WST

 

 

 

 

Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From jimf at frakes-eng.com  Wed Oct 31 06:13:34 2007
From: jimf at frakes-eng.com (Frakes, Jim)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 09:13:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] SOS '07 EFR
References: <003201c81bbb$5f1539c0$1d3fad40$@com>
Message-ID: <BC71FB2B0D08F54BA7F2E741DF3F06E413D8E2@s07.frakes-eng.com>

Last year at Mid-Ohio, I had the pleasure of Elliott Forbes Robinson
being my instructor for the Slalom Course. Very nice man with a good
wit. As he stated "Sir, if those cones were the children of the village,
you just wiped out a generation"!

Jim Frakes

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+jimf=frakes-eng.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+jimf=frakes-eng.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Wm. Severin Thompson
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 8:42 AM
To: 'Spridget List'; healeys at autox.team.net; team-thicko at autox.team.net;
mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] SOS '07 EFR

Hey y'all,



http://www.caranddriver.com/features/11372/sport-renaissance-man.html



Nice article on Elliott Forbes Robinson. I know he raced 2 Sprites
early.
The first is mentioned as having belonged to his father. That car was
autocrossed by Elliott and his sisters. The car pictured in this article
is
the 2nd, and was owned/prepared by EFR and Mike Mayon. That is the car I
own. Unfortunately the trick wheels were traded off years ago. I'd love
to
find a set of those. if any of you know where I might find a set.



SOS '07 will be the Fri & Sat. following Thanksgiving. Nov. 23 & 24. The
Thicko International World Headquarters are located at the Dream Farm. a
10
acre farm between Fond du Lac & Oshkosh Wisconsin.  We're smack dab in
the
middle of dairy farm country. The Thicko shop (yes, it is also known as
the
"homo club" ) is well lit, and well heated, should the weather be crap,
as
it often is that time of year, we'll be comfortable. We have plenty of
parking.





WST









Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name
of image001.png]
_______________________________________________
jimf at frakes-eng.com

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE
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From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Wed Oct 31 06:21:08 2007
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 08:21:08 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] USA Time
Message-ID: <48720d20710310621p4c0aa570sd074d800b9e5b2f8@mail.gmail.com>

Years ago I remember being told that England used 50 cycle current. If
Australia uses the same than a clock that requires 60 cycle won't work.

Jack

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Oct 31 06:29:11 2007
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 06:29:11 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] USA time
In-Reply-To: <000d01c81b9f$3eabb6d0$4001a8c0@ibm45xm8v45fmw>
References: <200710310712.l9V7CpH4013371@mail35.syd.optusnet.com.au>
	<000d01c81b9f$3eabb6d0$4001a8c0@ibm45xm8v45fmw>
Message-ID: <47288327.3050503@comcast.net>

Hi Patrick,


What, exactly, is the problem (failure mode)?

I have a Barbie clock, I'll ask her what's the matter ;)

bs


ps.  it doesn't set itself from an RF time server, just uses buttons 
that sometimes don't
work too good



Patrick and Caroline Quinn wrote:
> G'day Pieter
>
> Sometimes even blondes say things that contain more truth than you would
> expect.
>
> Perhaps someone can explain this for me?
>
> I have a Barbie Healey with a digital clock but it will not work in
> Australia. Getting over the difference between the 110v in the US and our
> 240v isn't a problem but I am told that the gizmo (technical term) that
> controls the clock is set for US settings and won't work here.
>
> Am I blonde or is there some technical thing that is quite beyond me?
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia 
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces+p_cquinn=tpg.com.au at autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces+p_cquinn=tpg.com.au at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> Pieter and Linda Scheenhouwer
> Sent: Wednesday, 31 October 2007 6:13 PM
> To: Healey List
> Subject: [Healeys] USA time
>
> So I was browsing the rear view mirror pedestals on the  Moss sale items at
> work today when a (female, blond) colleague asked me what they where for. I
> explained and since the healey doesn't have a clock I am going to purchase
> one with a clock. She replies" but one from the States would be no good, it
> would be on USA time wouldn't it". I rest my case!
>
> Pieter
>
> BJ7
> _______________________________________________
> bspidell at comcast.net 
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>   


-- 
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell at comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Oct 31 06:39:36 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 21:39:36 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] USA Time
In-Reply-To: <48720d20710310621p4c0aa570sd074d800b9e5b2f8@mail.gmail.com>
References: <48720d20710310621p4c0aa570sd074d800b9e5b2f8@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0710310639n1cb6fb0ev4d79089e5754bbe4@mail.gmail.com>

Jack -

It's a digital clock.  Cycles don't matter!

Alan

On 10/31/07, Jack Feldman <qualitas.jack at gmail.com> wrote:
> Years ago I remember being told that England used 50 cycle current. If
> Australia uses the same than a clock that requires 60 cycle won't work.
>
> Jack
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From insptwo at msn.com  Wed Oct 31 06:40:24 2007
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 08:40:24 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] paint color for fan shroud and water bottle bracket
 on bj8
In-Reply-To: <BAY101-F329868DA846C34C27BC6C0A5930@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAY106-F23372F465AE3982FFCF0BDAD930@phx.gbl>

That sounds more like Pittsburgheze to match the Stillers.
Bill
BJ7


>From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" <ynotink at msn.com>
>To: healey.nut at gmail.com, wilko2 at cox.net, healeys at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] paint color for fan shroud and water bottle bracket 
>on bj8
>Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 04:33:58 +0000
>
>That's Albakoykie if ya don't mind Doc.
>
>Bill Lawrence
>
>
> >From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> >To: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" <ynotink at msn.com>, wilko2 at cox.net,
> >healeys at autox.team.net
> >Subject: Re: [Healeys] paint color for fan shroud and water bottle 
>bracket
> >on bj8
> >Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 08:11:25 +0800
> >
> >Bill -
> >
> >In your experience, do most people "forget to make a left at 
>Albuquerque?"
> >
> >Alan
> >
> >
> >On 10/31/07, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:
> > > Archives are nice I suppose, but I never use them. I just like to be
> >able to
> > > pop in now and then to see what is happening in the Healey universe. 
>It
> > > seems that some questions are too mundane for anyone to take an
> >interest. On
> > > the other hand some topics seem to last forever. If the whole group 
>has
> > > become too bored or jaded to be bothered to answer simple questions 
>what
> >do
> > > we have to talk about?
> > >
> > > Bill Lawrence
> > > Albuquerque, NM
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > healey.nut at gmail.com
> > >
> > > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> > >
> >
> >
> >--
> >Alan
> >
> >'52 A90
> >'53 BN1
> >'64 BJ8
>_______________________________________________
>insptwo at msn.com
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From insptwo at msn.com  Wed Oct 31 06:48:03 2007
From: insptwo at msn.com (insptwo at msn.com)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 08:48:03 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] USA time
In-Reply-To: <001801c81bab$9d729970$4001a8c0@ibm45xm8v45fmw>
Message-ID: <BAY106-F407CB350ADCA76C53E9B93AD930@phx.gbl>

Patrick:
Might you know if your power is 60 or 50 cycles per second. I remember back 
in the 50's when I was stationed overseas, the guys would purchase very good 
Grundig (not sure about the spelling) record players/radios in Europe and 
wwe have to have a machinist mill a different spindle for the records to 
turn because of the difference in cycles.
Bill
BJ7


>From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>
>To: "'Alan Seigrist'" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
>CC: 'Healey List' <healeys at autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] USA time
>Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 21:48:46 +1100
>
>G'day
>
>That probably explains why I have the gravel rash on the top of my head.
>
>If I were to turn the clock arse about face then the electrons would fall
>upwards.
>
>I think it's got something to do with Hertz Rent-a-Car. Whatever a Hertz 
>is.
>Perhaps Stanley Lucas will know - Joseph's long lost brother who ran away 
>to
>Japan when he was just 22 and started the Stanley Electric Group.
>
>Hoo Roo
>
>Patrick Quinn
>yendyS, ailartsuA
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com]
>Sent: Wednesday, 31 October 2007 9:38 PM
>To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn
>Cc: Pieter and Linda Scheenhouwer; Healey List
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] USA time
>
>Patrick -
>
>That's because you are Down Under, which means the digital display is
>upside down.  You need to turn your barbie-clock upside down and then
>it will work correctly.
>
>You should also check to see if the "on" button is... switched on....
>
>Alan
>
>On 10/31/07, Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:
> > G'day Pieter
> >
> > Sometimes even blondes say things that contain more truth than you would
> > expect.
> >
> > Perhaps someone can explain this for me?
> >
> > I have a Barbie Healey with a digital clock but it will not work in
> > Australia. Getting over the difference between the 110v in the US and 
>our
> > 240v isn't a problem but I am told that the gizmo (technical term) that
> > controls the clock is set for US settings and won't work here.
> >
> > Am I blonde or is there some technical thing that is quite beyond me?
> >
> > Hoo Roo
> >
> > Patrick Quinn
> > Sydney, Australia
>_______________________________________________
>insptwo at msn.com
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From Kendall.Freese at aerojet.com  Wed Oct 31 07:01:31 2007
From: Kendall.Freese at aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 07:01:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 gages wanted
Message-ID: <1B3BD9CCDD89084C9CC405C3258017F501ED4182@SACMAIL1.aerojet.gencorp.local>

I want a non functional BJ8 speedo and tach for display only. Anybody
have some?
Thanks,
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

From amalin at mac.com  Wed Oct 31 07:08:35 2007
From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 10:08:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] USA time
Message-ID: <923F0DCB-149F-40A3-8A1E-5C2CC8195D75@mac.com>

Cycles per second (CPS) is important for clocks driven by electrical  
motors and those motors were synchronous motors because their speed  
was governed by CPS.  These motors operate in synchronization with  
the frequency of the electrical power, hence the name "synchronous"  
motor.

The power companies work hard to maintain a close frequency tolerance  
that's why this type of motor was used extensively with old analog  
clocks (and turntables).  The gearing for the hands was set for the  
market the clock was sold in, that's why a clock bought in Britain  
couldn't keep time in the U.S. and vice versa.

Al Malin
Tricarb


On Oct 31, 2007, at 9:48 AM, insptwo at msn.com wrote:


> Patrick:
> Might you know if your power is 60 or 50 cycles per second. I  
> remember back
> in the 50's when I was stationed overseas, the guys would purchase  
> very good
> Grundig (not sure about the spelling) record players/radios in  
> Europe and
> wwe have to have a machinist mill a different spindle for the  
> records to
> turn because of the difference in cycles.
> Bill
> BJ7

From dan at warner-associates.com  Wed Oct 31 07:30:07 2007
From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 09:30:07 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Hylomar
In-Reply-To: <AB618C91-B984-4C1E-8FED-A3421B3B0981@mac.com>
Message-ID: <000601c81bca$88e7de60$3500000a@warner.com>

Mike:
I to did some research and wound up purchasing Hylomar from a local supplier
Goodson for $24 (mostly shipping) and now I see the identical product in the
Moss book for $8.95 part #221-556 (package looks identical).  I called a
distributor from a website I found, which name escapes me right now, and
they told me the same snooze is repackaged as sold in the UK.
Regards,

Daniel A Stromquist

 
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Michael Gladwin
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 7:26 PM
To: Austin-Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Hylomar

There was a recent thread about difficulty in obtaining Hylomar, so I  
did a little research of my own.  Background: Hylomar is a non  
setting sealant developed to a Rolls-Royce R&D specification.  I can  
confirm from my 43 years with Rolls-Royce that it is used a great  
deal in military aero engines, and it works very well. Hylomar web  
site data shown below.

US military repair bases that look after RR aero engines have  
certified an alternative -- Permatex 1372, presumably because it was  
cheaper and more easily available in US.  Reports are that in many  
years of operation there have been no leaks as a result of sealant  
failure.

Hylomar is still available in UK and there is a later automotive  
version  - Hylomar Universal Blue Racing Formula Gasket & Jointing  
Compound

 From web site
"SQ32 was the original name of the R&D program at Rolls Royce that  
led to the development of Hylomar Universal Blue. PL32 was the  
original product name, and was available in Medium (PL32M), Light  
(PL32L), and Heavy (PL32H) grades. Hylomar Aerograde superseded these  
grades in 1985, but the references were retained in some  
specifications."

Hope this helps, at least you can seal some of the leaks.  But then,  
what will happen to the built-in Healey oxidation retardation liquid  
dispersal system (HORLDS)

Mike Gladwin
BT7 II Tricarb
_______________________________________________
dan at warner-associates.com 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk  Wed Oct 31 07:31:43 2007
From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 14:31:43 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] USA time
In-Reply-To: <923F0DCB-149F-40A3-8A1E-5C2CC8195D75@mac.com>
References: <923F0DCB-149F-40A3-8A1E-5C2CC8195D75@mac.com>
Message-ID: <g3RPQBJPHJKHFwBJ@jharper.demon.co.uk>

Al

Those of us who lived in London during the war and relied on a 
synchronous motor clock had to be careful that the time shown was 
correct. Due to power shortages not only was the voltage reduced during 
the day (I believe that the Americans call the Brown Out) but the 
frequency was also reduced. What this meant that a clock might read 
around 10 minutes slow by the end of an evening.  However somehow the 
generating companies were able to increase the frequency during the 
night so by first thing the next morning the clocks would read correct 
again.

Regards

>Cycles per second (CPS) is important for clocks driven by electrical
>motors and those motors were synchronous motors because their speed
>was governed by CPS.  These motors operate in synchronization with
>the frequency of the electrical power, hence the name "synchronous"
>motor.
>
>The power companies work hard to maintain a close frequency tolerance
>that's why this type of motor was used extensively with old analog
>clocks (and turntables).  The gearing for the hands was set for the
>market the clock was sold in, that's why a clock bought in Britain
>couldn't keep time in the U.S. and vice versa.
>
>Al Malin
>Tricarb
>
>
>On Oct 31, 2007, at 9:48 AM, insptwo at msn.com wrote:
>
>
-- 
John Harper

From dcongleton at embarqmail.com  Wed Oct 31 07:50:30 2007
From: dcongleton at embarqmail.com (Dallas Congleton)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 10:50:30 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] USA Time
References: <48720d20710310621p4c0aa570sd074d800b9e5b2f8@mail.gmail.com>
	<ff59076c0710310639n1cb6fb0ev4d79089e5754bbe4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <006901c81bcd$62942220$0201a8c0@your4dacd0ea75>

Actually in some digital clocks the line frequency does matter very much. AC 
powered digital clocks use the line frequency of the power line instead of a 
quartz crystal to calculate time. Any variation in line frequency, will 
affect the digital clock's accuracy. Couple of scenarios where AC digital 
clock accuracy could go awry is it is used at a different line frequency 
than it is designed for - this can happen if you travel with an AC line 
clock and your destination country uses a different line frequency than your 
home country.

Dallas
(Electronics and Instrument guru in a former life)


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: "Jack Feldman" <qualitas.jack at gmail.com>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 9:39 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] USA Time


> Jack -
>
> It's a digital clock.  Cycles don't matter!
>
> Alan

From jstmorris at yahoo.com  Wed Oct 31 08:52:10 2007
From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 11:52:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Healey engine for sale.
In-Reply-To: <bc3.1caa48dd.3458e761@aol.com>
Message-ID: <400347.27345.qm@web30306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi Jon;  Contact "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>   He has the details of the engine he is selling.
  --Scott Morris, Simcoe, Ontario, Canada    

Jnhorn at aol.com wrote: << Is this engine for sale? Who has the details?
jon einhorn   BJ8 (2)   BJ7   100-6  >>


J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
       
---------------------------------
Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail  

From dan at warner-associates.com  Wed Oct 31 09:41:29 2007
From: dan at warner-associates.com (Dan Stromquist)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 11:41:29 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] USA time
In-Reply-To: <923F0DCB-149F-40A3-8A1E-5C2CC8195D75@mac.com>
Message-ID: <002001c81bdc$e3467620$3500000a@warner.com>

List:
Chalk one up for the blonds!
Dan


 

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+dan=warner-associates.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Al Malin
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 9:09 AM
To: Healey Mail List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] USA time

Cycles per second (CPS) is important for clocks driven by electrical  
motors and those motors were synchronous motors because their speed  
was governed by CPS.  These motors operate in synchronization with  
the frequency of the electrical power, hence the name "synchronous"  
motor.

The power companies work hard to maintain a close frequency tolerance  
that's why this type of motor was used extensively with old analog  
clocks (and turntables).  The gearing for the hands was set for the  
market the clock was sold in, that's why a clock bought in Britain  
couldn't keep time in the U.S. and vice versa.

Al Malin
Tricarb


On Oct 31, 2007, at 9:48 AM, insptwo at msn.com wrote:


> Patrick:
> Might you know if your power is 60 or 50 cycles per second. I  
> remember back
> in the 50's when I was stationed overseas, the guys would purchase  
> very good
> Grundig (not sure about the spelling) record players/radios in  
> Europe and
> wwe have to have a machinist mill a different spindle for the  
> records to
> turn because of the difference in cycles.
> Bill
> BJ7
_______________________________________________
dan at warner-associates.com 

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

From billunc at gmail.com  Wed Oct 31 12:37:24 2007
From: billunc at gmail.com (Bill B)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 15:37:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] healey blue paint codes
Message-ID: <35dbb5b40710311237t2da4a300gcfc4561f62b87da1@mail.gmail.com>

hello healey humans:
any healey blue paint codes you have would be greatly appreciated,

thanks in advance
Bill Browning
Charlotte

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Oct 31 13:44:40 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 14:44:40 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] healey blue paint codes
References: <35dbb5b40710311237t2da4a300gcfc4561f62b87da1@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <084f01c81bfe$dc7075e0$6601a8c0@actualshop>

Bill:

The accepted authority is here:

http://www.coloramic.com/britcars.htm

Ed

From Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au  Wed Oct 31 15:23:23 2007
From: Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au (Quinn, Patrick)
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 09:23:23 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] SOS '07 EFR
In-Reply-To: <003201c81bbb$5f1539c0$1d3fad40$@com>
References: <003201c81bbb$5f1539c0$1d3fad40$@com>
Message-ID: <3CFB7014611C6F418B529D81EC0708C70169ED41@itfexch5.central.det.win>

G'day

Good article but I don't see a mention that Elliott Forbes-Robinson
senior was an Australian and was quite a successful MG racer.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+patrick.quinn=det.nsw.edu.au at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+patrick.quinn=det.nsw.edu.au at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Wm. Severin Thompson
Sent: Wednesday, 31 October 2007 11:42 PM
To: 'Spridget List'; healeys at autox.team.net; team-thicko at autox.team.net;
mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] SOS '07 EFR

Hey y'all,



http://www.caranddriver.com/features/11372/sport-renaissance-man.html



Nice article on Elliott Forbes Robinson. I know he raced 2 Sprites
early.
The first is mentioned as having belonged to his father. That car was
autocrossed by Elliott and his sisters. The car pictured in this article
is
the 2nd, and was owned/prepared by EFR and Mike Mayon. That is the car I
own. Unfortunately the trick wheels were traded off years ago. I'd love
to
find a set of those. if any of you know where I might find a set.



SOS '07 will be the Fri & Sat. following Thanksgiving. Nov. 23 & 24. The
Thicko International World Headquarters are located at the Dream Farm. a
10
acre farm between Fond du Lac & Oshkosh Wisconsin.  We're smack dab in
the
middle of dairy farm country. The Thicko shop (yes, it is also known as
the
"homo club" ) is well lit, and well heated, should the weather be crap,
as
it often is that time of year, we'll be comfortable. We have plenty of
parking.





WST









Wm. Severin Thompson

~iii<O



 <mailto:wsthompson at thicko.com> wsthompson at thicko.com

 <http://www.thicko.com/> www.thicko.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name
of image001.png]
_______________________________________________
patrick.quinn at det.nsw.edu.au

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From gilrockwell at comcast.net  Wed Oct 31 17:39:22 2007
From: gilrockwell at comcast.net (Gil Rockwell)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 20:39:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] USA Time
In-Reply-To: <ff59076c0710310639n1cb6fb0ev4d79089e5754bbe4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20071101013826.C683F1879FC@autox.team.net>

Actually it does matter for digital clocks produced in the early years of
digital clock technology.  Digital clocks today use a crystal for the time
base, but the early ones used the frequency of the AC line for its time
base.  For a clock built in the US, it used the 60 hertz frequency to be
divided by the digital circuits in the clock chip.  Trying to use it in
Australia or Europe where the power is 50 hertz the clock may run, but it
will always be slow by about 17 percent.

Gil
61 BT7

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+gilrockwell=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+gilrockwell=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Alan Seigrist
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 9:40 AM
To: Jack Feldman
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] USA Time

Jack -

It's a digital clock.  Cycles don't matter!

Alan

On 10/31/07, Jack Feldman <qualitas.jack at gmail.com> wrote:
> Years ago I remember being told that England used 50 cycle current. If
> Australia uses the same than a clock that requires 60 cycle won't work.
>
> Jack
> _______________________________________________
> healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


-- 
Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8

From RAWDAWGS at aol.com  Wed Oct 31 19:18:39 2007
From: RAWDAWGS at aol.com (RAWDAWGS at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 22:18:39 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Bringing back the dead
Message-ID: <c6b.1bbd37ec.345a917f@aol.com>

My BN4 Longbridge has been sitting in my garage for about 15 years while I  
did the career raise kids thing and I have been trying to get it running for 
the  past week or so. I have spark, and I have gas but it isnt kicking off. I 
just  have the split headers on now, and I got a pretty impressive tongue of 
flame,but  it wont kick off. I pulled the valve cover and saw I have one stuck 
valve.  Tomorrow's shopping list is a compression gauge and some ether(do they 
still  sell that?). I passed tractor 101 back in the day. Any ideas?  Scott



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Wed Oct 31 19:23:42 2007
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (James  Shope)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 19:23:42 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] USA time
Message-ID: <004201c81c2e$38fe1c70$5201a8c0@Jim>

ran into this problem when stationed in spain. they used 130 volt, 50 cycle,
which means i had to have transformer to step down and regulate current, and
all the american clocks i had ran slow, along with anything that had a motor.
same in germany except they used 220 volt.  came home with a box of step down
transformers and european appliances that i ended up throwing away.
healeymanjim

From sjnnock at sbcglobal.net  Wed Oct 31 19:39:20 2007
From: sjnnock at sbcglobal.net (Norman Nock)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 19:39:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Healeys] USA Time
In-Reply-To: <48720d20710310621p4c0aa570sd074d800b9e5b2f8@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <452117.17507.qm@web83315.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

    Any body remember the 25 cycles in Toronto Canada
in the early 50's
 and the problem when they changed the cycles ... at
25 cycles a low watt bulb would flicker ... Norman
Nock 

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Oct 31 20:14:00 2007
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 11:14:00 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Bringing back the dead
In-Reply-To: <c6b.1bbd37ec.345a917f@aol.com>
References: <c6b.1bbd37ec.345a917f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <ff59076c0710312014q71e5773fk84baaab9a43ba035@mail.gmail.com>

Be sure to set your timing to TDC by opening the top of the dizzy and
spinning the motor to TDC or slightly BTDC and then rotate the dizzy
until the contacts just open.

Also, I would run a very light oil, or a very high detergent light oil
for about 500 miles and be very gentle on this engine not to rev it
over 3,000 rpms - you don't want to spin a bearing if ports are
clogged or old oil has caked on the bearings - old gunk needs time to
clear out before you can start racing around town.

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8


On 11/1/07, RAWDAWGS at aol.com <RAWDAWGS at aol.com> wrote:
> My BN4 Longbridge has been sitting in my garage for about 15 years while I
> did the career raise kids thing and I have been trying to get it running for
> the  past week or so. I have spark, and I have gas but it isnt kicking off. I
> just  have the split headers on now, and I got a pretty impressive tongue of
> flame,but  it wont kick off. I pulled the valve cover and saw I have one stuck
> valve.  Tomorrow's shopping list is a compression gauge and some ether(do they
> still  sell that?). I passed tractor 101 back in the day. Any ideas?  Scott
.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>


--

From bluechipracing at snet.net  Wed Oct 31 21:06:14 2007
From: bluechipracing at snet.net (bluechip)
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 00:06:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Bringing back the dead
References: <c6b.1bbd37ec.345a917f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <004301c81c3c$8bc220b0$1f9bfea9@dell>

Scott:  A compression test is a good idea, but if you have petrol and spark, 
(not to mention tounges of flame) you don't need the ether.  She should kick 
off even with one valve stuck.  Sounds like distributor timing might be off 
by 180 degrees.

MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A GOOD FIRE EXTINGUISHER HANDY!

Jim Smith


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <RAWDAWGS at aol.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 10:18 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Bringing back the dead


> My BN4 Longbridge has been sitting in my garage for about 15 years while I
> did the career raise kids thing and I have been trying to get it running 
> for
> the  past week or so. I have spark, and I have gas but it isnt kicking 
> off. I
> just  have the split headers on now, and I got a pretty impressive tongue 
> of
> flame,but  it wont kick off. I pulled the valve cover and saw I have one 
> stuck
> valve.  Tomorrow's shopping list is a compression gauge and some ether(do 
> they
> still  sell that?). I passed tractor 101 back in the day. Any ideas? 
> Scott
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at 
> http://www.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> bluechipracing at snet.net
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

From Austinhealey104 at aol.com  Sun Oct 21 03:52:08 2007
From: Austinhealey104 at aol.com (Austinhealey104 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 05:52:08 EDT
Subject: [Healeys] Austin-healey.fr "Bill Moseley" My experience with Donald
 Healey
Message-ID: <bf1.1d9f70d8.344c7b48@aol.com>

Austin-healey.fr "Bill Moseley" My experience with Donald Healey
 
You can see the article of Bill Moseley
My experience with Donald Healey
_http://www.austin-healey.fr/Donald%20Healey/01dmhbillmoseley.html_ 
(http://www.austin-healey.fr/Donald%20Healey/01dmhbillmoseley.html) 
And
Three Best-In-Show, Judged Healeys Clash! "Bill Moseley" 
_http://www.austin-healey.fr/Donald%20Healey/01dmhbillmoseley01.html_ 
(http://www.austin-healey.fr/Donald%20Healey/01dmhbillmoseley01.html) 
See, Bill Moseley's contribution

_http://www.austin-healey.fr/Amis%20Proprietaires/contrihealeyautres/amipropri
etaireautre05.html_ 
(http://www.austin-healey.fr/Amis%20Proprietaires/contrihealeyautres/amiproprietaireautre05.html) 
 
Regards

Didier  Mongin
@ : _d.mongin at austin-healey.fr_ (mailto:d.mongin at austin-healey.fr) 
_WWW.AUSTIN-HEALEY.FR_ (http://www.austin-healey.fr/)