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<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Bob,</div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">We notched the crossmember in my wife's 6 race car, as we were concerned about engine movement with stock type mounts as well. I just sectioned about 1/2" of the tube and welded a piece of 1/8" strap across the opening. I don't have a pic handy, but if you need one, let me know and I'll send one this evening.</div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Jake</div><div><br></div>
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On Wednesday, September 24, 2025 at 08:00:14 AM CDT, Robert Lang via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote:
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<div><div id="ydp9723d386yiv9966904260"><div><div style="font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px;" class="ydp9723d386yiv9966904260yahoo-style-wrap"><div dir="ltr">Hi,</div><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div dir="ltr">After I got my frame straightened last year, I've noticed that the clearance between the ATI harmonic dampener and the front cross member and the steering rack seems tighter than what I previously had. Granted how much metal had been bent in the crash, I'm not surprised.</div><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div dir="ltr">So, I have a question for the hive - to compensate, I plan to push the engine back a tad, maybe 1/4" or so using the "usual method" of installing a metal plate in the engine mount to frame interface. The question: in moving the engine back in small increments, will I have to "shorten" the driveshaft or is the driveshaft length (stock driveshaft and stock 4-speed TR6 transmission) already able to compensate for moving the engine back.</div><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div dir="ltr">I'm not planning to go wild and make the car "mid-engined". I'm just looking to compensate for some "rearranged metal" in the front of the car. That and I also had to switch back to "stock" rubber motor mounts as opposed to the HD units that TRF used to sell. Else, if there's a source for stiffer stock-type TR6 engine mounts, I'm all ears. The softer stock units allow a LOT of motion in both axis of motion.</div><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div dir="ltr">After two broken cranks this season and reviewing my in-car vids, it looks like I'm not abusing the self-imposed redline of 6000 except occasional hell-toe blips on downshifts (Hi Christian!!) that I need to smooth out. But I think the crank is hitting the frame while spinning and that's adding more stress to the snout of the crank.</div><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div dir="ltr">TIA</div><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div dir="ltr">Bob Lang</div><div dir="ltr">339 927 4489</div></div></div></div>_______________________________________________<br><a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a><br><br><a href="http://www.fot-racing.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.fot-racing.com</a><br><br>Donate: <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>Archive: <a href="http://autox.team.net/archive" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive</a> <a href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot</a><br>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kekjacobsen@yahoo.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kekjacobsen@yahoo.com</a><br><br><br></div>
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