<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto">I’m assuming the bolt got inserted to get the remains of the stub axle out of the differential?<div><br></div><div>So, in over 10 years of racing my GT6, I have never sheared a stub axle (just jinxed myself).</div><div>The engine puts out about 200 hp. </div><div>That said, I know others who have had this problem repeatedly. They finally gave up and installed a Subaru differential.</div><div>I’m really not sure what differentiated my outcome from theirs. I’ve run mostly a welded diff but also a limited slip.</div><div>I’d suggest the following:</div><div>Pick up a handful of stub axles and get them all crack tested. I don’t mean with dye- take them somewhere that can magnaflux them .</div><div>Secondly, you might try getting them cryogenically treated. I just had two sets treated that way, along with the ring and pinion - those I have had repeated failures on.</div><div>Let us know what you figure out!</div><div>Scott Janzen<br id="lineBreakAtBeginningOfSignature"><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div dir="ltr"><br><blockquote type="cite">On May 26, 2025, at 8:27 PM, Anthony Parker via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr">
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Are there any stock stub shafts that are stronger than others?</div>
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Are there any aftermarket suppliers of these?</div>
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Thank you, Anthony.</div>
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