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   <span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: 12pt;">Rust-oleum from any hardware store will do the job.  Easy rattle can touch-up when you need it.  I think I used 2 quarts on my frame, after DP90 epoxy primer.  It still looks like it did when I finished it 12 or more years ago.  Maybe POR as an option for a slightly harder barrier.  Good preparation is more important than the exterior finish.  </span>
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   <span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: 12pt;">What are we saving our frames from?  They are not daily driven in all climates and conditions like they were when they were new.  Powdercoating is like dipping the frame in plastic.  It is overkill.  I guess you could blast some rust proofing inside the frame rails while you're at it.  It will then most likely last forever.  </span>
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   <span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: 12pt;">I've powder coated things like the brake master box to protect it from brake fluid, the roll cage, because it is exposed to lots of potential scratches and scrapes, and my custom made front cross member that the sway bar is bolted, because of it's direct exposure to road and track debris.  </span>
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   <span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: 12pt;">Triumph frames had no primer from the factory.  Only a thin coat of black paint.  My car's frame had most of it original black paint still in tack.  It did have cracks near the front suspension mounts and rust through from the inside at the lower end of the diagonal spring tower support on one side.   Extra durable paint would have not helped.  </span>
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   <span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: 12pt;">Dave H.</span>
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    On 09/28/2023 5:13 PM PDT Mike Harmuth via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote:
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    I used to have SCUBA tanks painted in Imron. They stopped allowing them to be refilled because you couldn't see any cracks/ damage.  Keep that in mind on a race car chassis, you don't want a shiny, hard, paint job to hide stress cracks, 
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     On Thu, Sep 28, 2023 at 7:20 PM Jack Wheeler via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:
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        Hi Joe.  When I bought the Imron for my car in 1980, the guy wouldn't sell it to me unless I also bought the respirator he recommended!  Strong stuff.
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        Jack
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         On Thursday, September 28, 2023 at 11:33:26 AM EDT, Joe Alexander <<a href="mailto:joealexandervintage@gmail.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener">joealexandervintage@gmail.com</a>> wrote:
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           In the 70s we were painting John Deere Tractors in DuPont Imron. What wasn’t done by robots was done by painters in HazMat Suits.
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            Joe Alexander 
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             4505 Donald Dr
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             Cedar Falls, IA 50613
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             The-vintage-racer.com
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             Gasketinnovations.com
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             Cell:  319.464.4711
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              On Sep 28, 2023, at 10:29 AM, Jack Wheeler via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" target="_blank" rel="noopener">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:
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                I don't know if it is even still available, but years ago I painted the frame on my race car with Dupont Imron.  It was the most durable paint available at the time, and my experience reflected that.  The stuff is very toxic, so you must use a very good respirator.
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                Jack
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                 On Thursday, September 28, 2023 at 02:28:28 AM EDT, Tony Drews via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" target="_blank" rel="noopener">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:
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                   <p>Grey will show cracks better than black.  POR is the first thing that came to mind for me, but it's been YEARS since I used it.</p> 
                   <p>Cheers, Tony</p> 
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                     On 9/27/2023 10:21 PM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote:
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                     <span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: 12pt;">I'd suggest POR 15.  Depending on the color, the number changes.  I think 15 is black.  Gray is something else, maybe 10.  Spray or brush on.  I've used Rustoleum as the touchup rattle spray cans are perfectly matched to the quart cans, and you can get it just about anywhere.  POR products might be a little more durable than Rustoleum.  If the frame is bare metal, an epoxy primer is a good start, but with POR I "think" you can skip the primer.  </span>
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                     <span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: 12pt;">Dave H.  </span>
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                     <span style="font-size: 12pt;">On 09/27/2023 5:55 PM PDT McKearn McKearn via Fot <a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" target="_blank" rel="noopener" shape="rect"><fot@autox.team.net></a> wrote:</span>
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                      Hi All. 
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                         It's been a long time since I've painted a frame and I'm just wondering what the latest / greatest thing to use is for a race car frame ? It's already sand blasted if that matters..
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                          Thanks.  P.J.
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