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Spare race prepped head???</div>
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What is that?</div>
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This is my first season in the GT6 after a 15-year build. Haven't had the time or money to make spares yet.</div>
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That's what winter in NH is for.</div>
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Got the head shaved this morning. Everything back together and running normally.</div>
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Thanks for everyone's help and wish me luck, Anthony.</div>
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<div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size:11pt" color="#000000"><b>From:</b> Mike Munson <fasttrs@yahoo.com><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, September 25, 2023 8:13 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> Anthony Parker <solarant@hotmail.com>; FOT Triumph <fot@autox.team.net><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Fot] Coolant conundrum</font>
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<div>I had the same problem back in 2016-2017. I tried everything including crack checking the head. Changing out the head solved the problem. Hopefully you have an extra race prepared head.
<div>I have seen casting leak on other cars due to lack of casting density.<br>
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<div class="x_yahoo-signature">Mike Munson #28 EP TR6</div>
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On Monday, September 25, 2023, 1:40 AM, Anthony Parker via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote:</p>
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Well...</div>
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Finally took the five minutes that I should have weeks ago.</div>
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Put a straight edge across the head.</div>
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The squish zone above the #2 cylinder is literally squished.</div>
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As much at 0.01" toward the center of the cylinder, but more importantly, 0.007" between the coolant passages and the gasket sealing ring.</div>
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Cost myself a lot of time, money, and frustration.</div>
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Live and learn.</div>
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Will try to get the head surfaced tomorrow first thing and then go from there.</div>
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Could be cracked inside the water jacket and the valve seats could be warped for all I know.</div>
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Though, I did lap the intake and exhaust in that cylinder and everything seemed to be seating properly.</div>
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Thanks for everyone's feedback,</div>
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<div dir="ltr" id="x_yiv6354514897divRplyFwdMsg"><b>From:</b> Fot <fot-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Anthony Parker via Fot <fot@autox.team.net><br clear="none">
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, September 23, 2023 8:02 PM<br clear="none">
<b>To:</b> Robert Lang <robertlangtr6@yahoo.com>; FOT Triumph <fot@autox.team.net><br clear="none">
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Fot] Coolant conundrum
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Thanks Rich, Robert, and everyone else.</div>
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More digging..</div>
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White sludge in valve cover.</div>
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Watery oil in tappets.</div>
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Head is off and stripped, ready for the machine shop.</div>
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Strange that this morning before the third test, the oil was clear and clean.</div>
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We'll see if the head or the block is the problem. </div>
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With my recent luck, it could be both.</div>
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<div dir="ltr" id="x_yiv6354514897x_divRplyFwdMsg"><b>From:</b> Robert Lang <robertlangtr6@yahoo.com><br clear="none">
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, September 23, 2023 5:45 PM<br clear="none">
<b>To:</b> FOT Triumph <fot@autox.team.net>; Anthony Parker <solarant@hotmail.com><br clear="none">
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Fot] Coolant conundrum
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<div dir="ltr">The cooling of the radiator and temp spike seem to indicate an air bubble in the system. It could get there from spot temps causing localized boiling or it could come from a pressure leak from the combustion chamber or head gasket.<br clear="none">
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<div dir="ltr">If you think you have a cracked head or bad head gasket, try pressurizing the system and see if the pressure holds. Stant makes a tool like, there are probably others, but buy or borrow this tool. It takes all the guess work out of such problems.
My rule of thumb is to bring it up to cap pressure and see if it holds for at last 30 minutes (plus or minus a couple of lb is okay, but loosing half or more in less than 30 minutes is a dead giveaway.<br clear="none">
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<div dir="ltr">I would also verify that the ignition timing is not too far advanced. Not that I ever had that problem. :-)</div>
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<div dir="ltr">Note that you can also use the Stant gauge to verify "normal" system pressure - you want to do that to make sure your cap pressure will keep the coolant from boiling.</div>
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<div dir="ltr">Good luck figuring out the problem.</div>
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<div dir="ltr">Regards,</div>
<div dir="ltr">Bob Lang<br clear="none">
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<div>On Saturday, September 23, 2023 at 02:05:24 PM EDT, Anthony Parker via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote:
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<span class="x_yiv6354514897x_x_ydpf09cc1feyiv8718614122ContentPasted0" style="margin:0px">I'm having cooling problems.</span></div>
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Need help being convinced that I have to do what I don't want to do.</div>
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Brand new short block, same old head, water pump, and radiator.<br clear="none">
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Over three trials, the engine will run fine and warm up with radiator hoses and radiator warming properly. Then the hoses and radiator will cool and coolant temp will spike to 230+. Radiator cold with sky high coolant temps.</div>
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Two more clues, hoses seem to pressurize very quickly and when I opened the radiator cap this morning (after cooling all night) pressurized air and coolant shot everywhere.</div>
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<span class="x_yiv6354514897x_x_ydpf09cc1feyiv8718614122ContentPasted1" style="display:inline!important; background-color:rgb(255,255,255)">No thermostat and I have confirmed three times that system is completely full</span><br clear="none">
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Seems I have combustion gases getting into coolant and then bubbles eventually removing pump prime.</div>
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Don't know what else it could be.</div>
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Given the apparent direction of the leak, is there any use in trying some "stop leak" product?</div>
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Is it time to pull the head again to look for warping or gasket leak?</div>
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I suppose it could be a cracked cylinder, but this block has been checked by two different trusted engine machinists.</div>
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Desperately trying to get to the RunOffs, Anthony.</div>
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