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Thanks Rich, Robert, and everyone else.</div>
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More digging..</div>
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White sludge in valve cover.</div>
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Watery oil in tappets.</div>
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Head is off and stripped, ready for the machine shop.</div>
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Strange that this morning before the third test, the oil was clear and clean.</div>
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We'll see if the head or the block is the problem. </div>
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With my recent luck, it could be both.</div>
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<div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size:11pt" color="#000000"><b>From:</b> Robert Lang <robertlangtr6@yahoo.com><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, September 23, 2023 5:45 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> FOT Triumph <fot@autox.team.net>; Anthony Parker <solarant@hotmail.com><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Fot] Coolant conundrum</font>
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<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">The cooling of the radiator and temp spike seem to indicate an air bubble in the system. It could get there from spot temps causing localized boiling or it could come from a pressure leak from the combustion chamber or head
gasket.<br>
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<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">If you think you have a cracked head or bad head gasket, try pressurizing the system and see if the pressure holds. Stant makes a tool like, there are probably others, but buy or borrow this tool. It takes all the guess work
out of such problems. My rule of thumb is to bring it up to cap pressure and see if it holds for at last 30 minutes (plus or minus a couple of lb is okay, but loosing half or more in less than 30 minutes is a dead giveaway.<br>
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<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">I would also verify that the ignition timing is not too far advanced. Not that I ever had that problem. :-)</div>
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<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Note that you can also use the Stant gauge to verify "normal" system pressure - you want to do that to make sure your cap pressure will keep the coolant from boiling.</div>
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<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Good luck figuring out the problem.</div>
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<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Regards,</div>
<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Bob Lang<br>
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<div>On Saturday, September 23, 2023 at 02:05:24 PM EDT, Anthony Parker via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote:
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<span class="x_ydpf09cc1feyiv8718614122ContentPasted0" style="margin:0px">I'm having cooling problems.</span></div>
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Need help being convinced that I have to do what I don't want to do.</div>
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Brand new short block, same old head, water pump, and radiator.<br>
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<div class="x_ydpf09cc1feyiv8718614122ContentPasted0" style="margin:0px">Over three trials, the engine will run fine and warm up with radiator hoses and radiator warming properly. Then the hoses and radiator will cool and coolant temp will spike to 230+. Radiator
cold with sky high coolant temps.</div>
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<div class="x_ydpf09cc1feyiv8718614122ContentPasted0" style="margin:0px">Two more clues, hoses seem to pressurize very quickly and when I opened the radiator cap this morning (after cooling all night) pressurized air and coolant shot everywhere.</div>
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<div class="x_ydpf09cc1feyiv8718614122ContentPasted0" style="margin:0px"><span class="x_ydpf09cc1feyiv8718614122ContentPasted1" style="display:inline!important; background-color:rgb(255,255,255)">No thermostat and I have confirmed three times that system is
completely full</span><br>
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<div class="x_ydpf09cc1feyiv8718614122ContentPasted0" style="margin:0px">Seems I have combustion gases getting into coolant and then bubbles eventually removing pump prime.</div>
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Don't know what else it could be.</div>
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Given the apparent direction of the leak, is there any use in trying some "stop leak" product?</div>
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Is it time to pull the head again to look for warping or gasket leak?</div>
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I suppose it could be a cracked cylinder, but this block has been checked by two different trusted engine machinists.</div>
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Desperately trying to get to the RunOffs, Anthony.</div>
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