<html><head><meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class="">Solid copper and brass doesn’t really creep much in compression. And if it did, in this case the gasket is bounded on the edges with not many places to creep to. <br class=""><div class="">
<div><b class="">Bill Babcock</b><br class=""><i class="">Beach Bum</i><br class=""><a href="mailto:bill@ponostyle.com" class="">bill@ponostyle.com</a><br class="">https://www.Ponostyle.com<br class=""></div>
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<div><br class=""><blockquote type="cite" class=""><div class="">On May 15, 2023, at 3:19 AM, Philip Gott via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" class="">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:</div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=""><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8" class=""><div dir="auto" class="">Thanks, Tony;<div class="">Changing the figure 8 gasket thickness does sound like the easiest and most precise solution. Several others have made the same suggestion to use brass or copper shim stock. I am leery of creep in brass or copper. What is the experience you all have had? Does the creep take a set after a while or do you need to continually retorque the head? Is there a similar issue with solid copper head gaskets?</div><div class="">The responses of everyone are much appreciated. Brendon and Sean Alexander have offered some steel shim gaskets if he has the correct thickness (.010”). Just hoping I don’t need to reduce piston compression height as well….</div><div class="">Regards,</div><div class="">Phil<br class=""><br class=""><div dir="ltr" class="">Sent from my iPhone</div><div dir="ltr" class=""><br class=""><blockquote type="cite" class="">On May 14, 2023, at 7:16 PM, Tony Drews via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" class="">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br class=""><br class=""></blockquote></div><blockquote type="cite" class=""><div dir="ltr" class="">
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8" class=""><p class="">You can also make some custom thickness replacements for the
figure 8 gaskets to tune the protrusion. You can get brass shim
stock from local hardware store or McMaster Carr and cut out with
scissors / snips. I do separate O shapes, the siamesed cylinders
don't really need the gasket combined into a fig 8 one.</p><p class="">Decking the block on the wet liner engine makes this more
fiddly. You'll want to verify piston height at TDC too.</p><p class="">Regards, Tony Drews<br class="">
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/14/2023 2:07 PM, Steve Yott via
Fot wrote:<br class="">
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<blockquote type="cite" cite="mid:20230514201811.9280BA0C8B@autox.team.net" class="">
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<div dir="auto" class="">You can machine the cylinder seat the required
amount. I have a set of mandrels I made and do this frequently
on the lathe.</div>
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<div dir="auto" class="">Steve Yott</div>
<div dir="auto" class=""><br class="">
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charset=UTF-8" class="">
<div style="font-size:85%;color:#575757" dir="auto" class="">Steve Yott</div>
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<div class="">-------- Original message --------</div>
<div class="">From: Philip Gott via Fot <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net"><fot@autox.team.net></a> </div>
<div class="">Date: 5/14/23 1:02 PM (GMT-06:00) </div>
<div class="">To: Friends Of Triumph <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net"><fot@autox.team.net></a> </div>
<div class="">Subject: [Fot] TR sleeve protrusion .011 </div>
<div class=""><br class="">
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Has anyone had experience with the cylinder sleeves protruding
.011”? The head has been staked per Kas’s book. <br class="">
I am trying to build an engine quickly (avoiding machine shop
delays) and have a block with billet crank and Chris Marx seal
installed. It has been decked already. Also line bored and cam
bearings and cam installed and timed. I want to know if I can
assemble this with confidence or if I am asking for trouble? I
don’t anticipate problems with oil or water sealing as I will use
Hylomar on a .020” steel head gasket with the raised corrugating
around the oil and water galleys.<br class="">
The crank broke and a cylinder sleeve cracked in “old reliable”
during a test day.<br class="">
Please advise.<br class="">
Thanks and regards,<br class="">
Phil Gott<br class="">
<br class="">
Sent from my iPhone<br class="">
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