<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto">Thanks, Tony;<div>Changing the figure 8 gasket thickness does sound like the easiest and most precise solution. Several others have made the same suggestion to use brass or copper shim stock. I am leery of creep in brass or copper. What is the experience you all have had? Does the creep take a set after a while or do you need to continually retorque the head? Is there a similar issue with solid copper head gaskets?</div><div>The responses of everyone are much appreciated. Brendon and Sean Alexander have offered some steel shim gaskets if he has the correct thickness (.010”). Just hoping I don’t need to reduce piston compression height as well….</div><div>Regards,</div><div>Phil<br><br><div dir="ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div><div dir="ltr"><br><blockquote type="cite">On May 14, 2023, at 7:16 PM, Tony Drews via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr">
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<p>You can also make some custom thickness replacements for the
figure 8 gaskets to tune the protrusion. You can get brass shim
stock from local hardware store or McMaster Carr and cut out with
scissors / snips. I do separate O shapes, the siamesed cylinders
don't really need the gasket combined into a fig 8 one.</p>
<p>Decking the block on the wet liner engine makes this more
fiddly. You'll want to verify piston height at TDC too.</p>
<p>Regards, Tony Drews<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/14/2023 2:07 PM, Steve Yott via
Fot wrote:<br>
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<div dir="auto">You can machine the cylinder seat the required
amount. I have a set of mandrels I made and do this frequently
on the lathe.</div>
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</div>
<div dir="auto">Steve Yott</div>
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<div style="font-size:85%;color:#575757" dir="auto">Steve Yott</div>
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<div>-------- Original message --------</div>
<div>From: Philip Gott via Fot <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net"><fot@autox.team.net></a> </div>
<div>Date: 5/14/23 1:02 PM (GMT-06:00) </div>
<div>To: Friends Of Triumph <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net"><fot@autox.team.net></a> </div>
<div>Subject: [Fot] TR sleeve protrusion .011 </div>
<div><br>
</div>
</div>
Has anyone had experience with the cylinder sleeves protruding
.011”? The head has been staked per Kas’s book. <br>
I am trying to build an engine quickly (avoiding machine shop
delays) and have a block with billet crank and Chris Marx seal
installed. It has been decked already. Also line bored and cam
bearings and cam installed and timed. I want to know if I can
assemble this with confidence or if I am asking for trouble? I
don’t anticipate problems with oil or water sealing as I will use
Hylomar on a .020” steel head gasket with the raised corrugating
around the oil and water galleys.<br>
The crank broke and a cylinder sleeve cracked in “old reliable”
during a test day.<br>
Please advise.<br>
Thanks and regards,<br>
Phil Gott<br>
<br>
Sent from my iPhone<br>
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