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<p>I've had no issue with brass compressing / creeping. It's how I
got my protrusion set.</p>
<p>- Tony<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/15/2023 5:19 AM, Philip Gott
wrote:<br>
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Thanks, Tony;
<div>Changing the figure 8 gasket thickness does sound like the
easiest and most precise solution. Several others have made the
same suggestion to use brass or copper shim stock. I am leery of
creep in brass or copper. What is the experience you all have
had? Does the creep take a set after a while or do you need to
continually retorque the head? Is there a similar issue with
solid copper head gaskets?</div>
<div>The responses of everyone are much appreciated. Brendon and
Sean Alexander have offered some steel shim gaskets if he has
the correct thickness (.010”). Just hoping I don’t need to
reduce piston compression height as well….</div>
<div>Regards,</div>
<div>Phil<br>
<br>
<div dir="ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div>
<div dir="ltr"><br>
<blockquote type="cite">On May 14, 2023, at 7:16 PM, Tony
Drews via Fot <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net"><fot@autox.team.net></a> wrote:<br>
<br>
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<p>You can also make some custom thickness replacements for
the figure 8 gaskets to tune the protrusion. You can get
brass shim stock from local hardware store or McMaster
Carr and cut out with scissors / snips. I do separate O
shapes, the siamesed cylinders don't really need the
gasket combined into a fig 8 one.</p>
<p>Decking the block on the wet liner engine makes this more
fiddly. You'll want to verify piston height at TDC too.</p>
<p>Regards, Tony Drews<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/14/2023 2:07 PM, Steve
Yott via Fot wrote:<br>
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<div dir="auto">You can machine the cylinder seat the
required amount. I have a set of mandrels I made and do
this frequently on the lathe.</div>
<div dir="auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir="auto">Steve Yott</div>
<div dir="auto"><br>
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<div style="font-size:85%;color:#575757" dir="auto">Steve
Yott</div>
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align="left">
<div>-------- Original message --------</div>
<div>From: Philip Gott via Fot <a
class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net"
moz-do-not-send="true"><fot@autox.team.net></a>
</div>
<div>Date: 5/14/23 1:02 PM (GMT-06:00) </div>
<div>To: Friends Of Triumph <a
class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net"
moz-do-not-send="true"><fot@autox.team.net></a>
</div>
<div>Subject: [Fot] TR sleeve protrusion .011 </div>
<div><br>
</div>
</div>
Has anyone had experience with the cylinder sleeves
protruding .011”? The head has been staked per Kas’s book.
<br>
I am trying to build an engine quickly (avoiding machine
shop delays) and have a block with billet crank and Chris
Marx seal installed. It has been decked already. Also line
bored and cam bearings and cam installed and timed. I want
to know if I can assemble this with confidence or if I am
asking for trouble? I don’t anticipate problems with oil
or water sealing as I will use Hylomar on a .020” steel
head gasket with the raised corrugating around the oil and
water galleys.<br>
The crank broke and a cylinder sleeve cracked in “old
reliable” during a test day.<br>
Please advise.<br>
Thanks and regards,<br>
Phil Gott<br>
<br>
Sent from my iPhone<br>
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