<html><head><meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div dir="auto">You can machine the cylinder seat the required amount. I have a set of mandrels I made and do this frequently on the lathe.</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">Steve Yott</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div id="composer_signature" dir="auto"><meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8"><div style="font-size:85%;color:#575757" dir="auto">Steve Yott</div></div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div><br></div><div align="left" dir="auto" style="font-size:100%;color:#000000"><div>-------- Original message --------</div><div>From: Philip Gott via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> </div><div>Date: 5/14/23 1:02 PM (GMT-06:00) </div><div>To: Friends Of Triumph <fot@autox.team.net> </div><div>Subject: [Fot] TR sleeve protrusion .011 </div><div><br></div></div>Has anyone had experience with the cylinder sleeves protruding .011”? The head has been staked per Kas’s book. <br>I am trying to build an engine quickly (avoiding machine shop delays) and have a block with billet crank and Chris Marx seal installed. It has been decked already. Also line bored and cam bearings and cam installed and timed. I want to know if I can assemble this with confidence or if I am asking for trouble? I don’t anticipate problems with oil or water sealing as I will use Hylomar on a .020” steel head gasket with the raised corrugating around the oil and water galleys.<br>The crank broke and a cylinder sleeve cracked in “old reliable” during a test day.<br>Please advise.<br>Thanks and regards,<br>Phil Gott<br><br>Sent from my iPhone<br>_______________________________________________<br>fot@autox.team.net<br><br>http://www.fot-racing.com<br><br>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<br>Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot<br>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4@wi.rr.com<br><br><br></body></html>