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<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Henry, I know you and I have chatted about this in the past. I get the "it's just one more thing to break" philosophy. But IMHO, cracking a cylinder head that's run hot with umpteen hours of messaging, not to mention $$$ heaved at it, is not worth saving a few bux$ and labor hours by skipping the rad.</div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Now, to the core of the issue - pun intended - is that aluminum core of the Wizard has better heat transfer (apparently) due to a more efficient matrix. I have run a Wizard in the TR6 for something like 15 years. I use an electric fan because I seem to wind up spending a lot of time idling in grid. Absent silly issues like static timing being way off, which resulted in temp spiking, the only problem I've ever had was a radiator cracking due to stresses. Note that pylons in autocross are not kind to aluminum radiators. But I consider on radiator and one oil cooler cracking after more than 200 autocrosses to be "fairly good reliability".</div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">I run a Wizard TR6 drop-in and a puller electric fan with the thermostatic controlled relay setup. Totally worth the money.</div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Regards,</div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Bob Lang<br></div><div><br></div>
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On Tuesday, March 14, 2023 at 07:30:32 AM EDT, yellow04 via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote:
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<p>I dropped a Wizard radiator into Old Blue and it solved the cooling issues Dentinger experienced for years in the old TR3. Actually, I have Wizard products installed in a couple street cars as well, they work. If they keep a Stag cool, they must have figured something out. </p>
<p>One caveat worth mentioning, both Steve's car and mine run the early small mouth valance, which does not require much in additional ducting. On the wide mouth cars, a good ducting solution is critical. If I were racing a TR3A with that big grill, I would be so tempted to run an oversized radiator and the obligatory thermostat, that has been my solution with the TR4 and the TR250. I have seen it done in a TR3, I will admit you need to get a bit more creative with the limited space available.</p>
<p>I never saw the need for a fan in a race car, if you know when to run the thing, and more importantly when to shut it down, why bother?</p>
<p>Henry </p>
<div id="ydp7824dbf8yiv4624346217yqtfd04132" class="ydp7824dbf8yiv4624346217yqt7680788791"><p id="ydp7824dbf8yiv4624346217reply-intro">On 2023-03-13 20:00, Steven Belfer via Fot wrote:</p>
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<div>I run a wizard radiator in my TR3 in the hot California sun. No problemo<br clear="none"><br clear="none">
<div dir="ltr">~Steve
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<blockquote type="cite" style="padding:0 0.4em;border-left:#1010ff 2px solid;margin:0;">On Mar 13, 2023, at 3:26 PM, Bryan Brazelton via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote:<br clear="none"><br clear="none"></blockquote>
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<div dir="ltr">Hello Group, I am looking for recommendations on what Aluminum Radiator is the best for competition on the TR3 . I like the ones with fan brackets made onto the body of the radiator like the Wizard Radiator but it is on a 2 row instead of the others that are 3 rows. Does anyone have experience with this?</div>
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