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<p class="MsoNormal">I had the same experience with the dinky little ¼” ARP rod bolts in my Carrillo set. I had a hard time trusting them. I did measure them for yield each time I used them, but I mostly went by feel while torquing them up. There were just
times when you could feel them stretch the normal amount and some times when you could feel them streeeeeetch a bit more. I replaced them at that point, regardless of what the measurements said. Never had one break in use though, while I did have a 5/16ths
ARP rod bolt break in a lightened stock rod.<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">Scott (B.)<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><b>From:</b> Fot <fot-bounces@autox.team.net> <b>On Behalf Of
</b>Scott Janzen via Fot<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, January 25, 2023 3:42 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Brad Eells <tr4abrad@gmail.com><br>
<b>Cc:</b> 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph <fot@autox.team.net><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Fot] Connecting rod question<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">the carillo rods, at least for the GT6 - same, I think as the Spit and the TR6 - do have these dinky little 1/4” bolts. I’ve never had a failure in action, but did overstretch one because I used ARP lube instead of Carillo lube - the arp
lube is slicker. Those bolts cost about $42 each! I now use the correct lube, measure them before and after I install and uninstall them, etc. No issues at 7000 rpm, just about every shift.<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">On Jan 25, 2023, at 2:48 PM, Brad Eells via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana-Bold",serif">Walt,</span><o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana-Bold",serif">I went with Pauter rods for the Spitfire due to the use of a larger rod bolt than Carillo.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana-Bold",serif">Marty Sukey posted some very nasty pictures of his Carillos and a rod bolt failure…good enough for me.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:12.0pt"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana-Bold",serif">Not sure how it will apply to TR6 items but worth a look.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana-Bold",serif">Brad Eells<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana-Bold",serif">Sent from my iPhone<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:12.0pt"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana-Bold",serif">On Jan 25, 2023, at 11:33 AM, Walt Hollowell via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">I have built a few full race engines for my TR6 using MaxSpeeding connecting rods with acceptable results. For my next build I am considering Carrillo rods which run about $650 more than the MaxSpeeding rods.<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span><o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">Do and FOT members feel that the Carrillo rods are worth the extra bucks or should I be happy with the MaxSpeeding considering the affordability?<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">Thanks,<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">Walter Hollowell<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">Albuquerque, New Mexico<o:p></o:p></p>
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