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<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">you should at least pull the guts out of a stat or run a washer with the same size hole, no stat or restriction can cause uneven cooling, the pressure buildup or lack of will only cool the front part of the block/head, the restriction will allow proper pressure to flow all areas and not just the front / basically no stat equals cold frt of engine, hot rear - the restrictor can be adjusted for more or less flow as needed to get the desired temp - the best approx temp for combustion/power/mileage is around 190 - 195, that is what modern cars run and will not hurt any engine assuming the temp is consistent across the system or really close</div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br></div><div><br></div>
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On Saturday, June 11, 2022, 07:36:53 AM CDT, dustin nicholson via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote:
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<div><div id="ydp139a170dyiv0118063987"><div>I haven’t seen any response to part of the original question of running without a thermostat. <div><br clear="none"></div><div>Here’s my experience with that idea. When I was 16 I had a very tired 1296 Spit with the narrow radiator, small fan, and no overdrive that threatened to over heat on hot Texas summer days. I “fixed” it within my budget ($0) by removing the thermostat. It worked great around town, but cruising on the Highway (4,500 RPM at 70 MPH) and it would get very hot very fast. My guess is the water was flowing too fast through the radiator and not cooling off before going back in the engine. </div><div><br clear="none"></div><div>Lower RPM’s of the pump and a better cooling system might over come that problem, but even so I’d be hesitant to run without a thermostat.<br clear="none"><br clear="none"><div dir="ltr">Dusty Nicholson <div>281-871-9623</div></div><div dir="ltr"><div id="ydp139a170dyiv0118063987yqtfd86205" class="ydp139a170dyiv0118063987yqt9565933231"><br clear="none"><blockquote type="cite">On Jun 10, 2022, at 5:23 PM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote:<br clear="none"><br clear="none"></blockquote></div></div><div id="ydp139a170dyiv0118063987yqtfd66624" class="ydp139a170dyiv0118063987yqt9565933231"><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr">
</div></blockquote></div></div></div><div id="ydp139a170dyiv0118063987yqtfd74607" class="ydp139a170dyiv0118063987yqt9565933231"></div><div><div id="ydp139a170dyiv0118063987yqtfd76125" class="ydp139a170dyiv0118063987yqt9565933231"><div style="font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;color:#333333;"> <span style="font-family:helvetica;font-size:12pt;"><span style="font-family:helvetica;font-size:12pt;"></span>I run a 180 thermostat with a plastic or Teflon restrictor that has I think a 3/8" hole in it in the bypass line to mimic the standard bellows thermostat's restriction. Aluminum radiator, standard water pump and pulley sizes. I'd would like to have a smaller crank pulley to slow the pump and alternator. I use an expansion tank that fills the system and circulates coolant using the heater connections at the back of the head and return tube. No filler cap on the radiator. Temps typically around 190. Both water and oil. Street or race.</span>
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<div style="font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;color:#333333;" class="ydp139a170dyiv0118063987default-style"> <span style="font-family:helvetica;font-size:12pt;">Dave H.</span>
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On 06/10/2022 12:18 PM Dave Riddle via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote:
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<p class="ydp139a170dyiv0118063987MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1f497d;">Brand new Aluminum Radiator from Wizard and all new hoses </span></p>
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