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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 1/4/22 6:31 AM, Jerry V V via Fot
wrote:<br>
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cite="mid:837c290643565ee51f4c64f66d3c16526573cd00@webmail">
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<p class="MsoNormal">They are susceptible to electrolysis if you
don’t keep a
watch on the coolant voltage.</p>
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<p>cooling system electrolysis is the result of poor grounding and
your coolant being used as an electrical ground path. Aluminum is
a fairly active metal and in the presence of an electric field
will act as an anode and give up an electron to move current
through the coolant towards a ground source. The result is the
aluminum metal being eaten away and a gritty build up on the
cathode side of the electrical pathway. Commercial coolants have
inhibitors that can slow this process until the inhibitor gets
used up. Tap water has ions in suspension that can facilitate
electrolysis.</p>
<p>What you need to do is provide lower resistance electrical
pathways between the engine and the battery ground. A good bare
metal to bare metal ground strap between the engine & frame is
a good first step. Triumphs with the battery ground going to the
body also needs a strap between the body and frame. If you have an
alternator you should find a ground post on the case. Run a wire
from the alternator case to the frame.</p>
<p>Make sure your coolant gets changed per the directions and mix it
with distilled water to eliminate the ions in tap water that can
help facilitate electrolysis. Commercial coolants are formulated
to minimize electrolysis. Another thing you can do is replace your
radiator drain valve with a zinc plug. Zinc is more chemically
active than aluminum so will more easily give up its ions for
electrical current flow. It becomes the sacrificial anode giving
of itself instead of the aluminum.</p>
<p>Good grounds, fresh coolant, distilled water, and a zinc radiator
plug together makes for happier aluminum bits in contact with
coolant.<br>
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<p>TeriAnn<br>
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