<html><head><meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class="">Also, going back to the TR6 vs GT6 design, they both used the same connecting rods to save money. They also essentially have the same block (same dimensions, anyway, though the TR6 block is heavier and has bulges on the manifold side). Because the TR6 has a stroker crank, the same pistons as the GT6 would end up colliding with the head. So, they raised the wrist pin height on the TR6 pistons to adjust for the stroke difference. <div class="">Jason is right on the advantages. Piston cost should be the same - not sure if rods will cost more as they may be truly custom, versus what’s available for these engines. Maybe it’s worth it?<br class=""><div><br class=""><div class="">On Dec 6, 2021, at 10:38 AM, Jason Sukey via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" class="">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:</div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=""><div dir="ltr" class="">Hi PJ,<div class=""> In theory, the closer the wrist pin is to the top of the piston, the more stable the piston is in the bore; the rings will seal better. And the piston can be shorter with less mass.</div><div dir="auto" class=""><br class=""></div><div dir="auto" class="">Longer rods lead to less thrust loading of the piston against the cylinder wall. Less friction for more power and less wear. </div><div dir="auto" class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">There's also the argument of rod length to stroke ratio, but I doubt we are making enough change here to count this as a benefit.</div><div dir="auto" class=""><br class=""></div><div dir="auto" class="">I can't say exactly how much power it's really worth, .... but if you are ordering custom pistons and rods anyways, it doesn't add any cost to make them "better".</div><div dir="auto" class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">Jason</div></div><br class=""><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Dec 6, 2021 at 10:32 AM McKearn McKearn <<a href="mailto:mckearn2@gmail.com" class="">mckearn2@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br class=""></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir="ltr" class="">Can you explaine the longer rods and TR6 pistons to me please?<div class=""> Thanks. P.J.</div></div><br class=""><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Dec 6, 2021 at 12:51 AM Geoff Byrne via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" target="_blank" class="">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br class=""></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir="auto" class="">You don’t need a billet crank in the 2litre motor mine revs to 8 but what you do need are 9 mm longer rods and then use TR 6 pistons <div class="">Geoff Byrne , TR racer down under<br class=""><br class=""><div dir="ltr" class="">Sent from my iPad</div><div dir="ltr" class=""><br class=""><blockquote type="cite" class="">On 6 Dec 2021, at 2:41 pm, Jason Sukey via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" target="_blank" class="">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br class=""><br class=""></blockquote></div><blockquote type="cite" class=""><div dir="ltr" class=""><div dir="auto" class=""><div class="">One more vote for a properly prepared stock crank. Mine is balanced and nitrided, but with a stock "damper". No issues reving safely north of 7,000. Auxiliary oiling to the front main bearings is a must for high rpm.</div><div dir="auto" class=""><br class=""></div><div dir="auto" class="">I have Pauter rods, a little heavier than Carillo's, but have larger bolts. (5/16" vs 1/4" if I remember correctly) </div><div dir="auto" class=""><br class=""></div><div dir="auto" class="">I'm running Venolia forged pistons, they work well but have since gone out of business.</div><div dir="auto" class=""><br class=""></div><div dir="auto" class="">If you are going the custom rods/custom pistons route, consider having the pistons made with a shorter compression height than stock, and longer rods to match.</div><div dir="auto" class=""><br class=""></div><div dir="auto" class="">Jason<br class=""><br class=""><div class="gmail_quote" dir="auto"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Dec 5, 2021, 10:25 PM Scott Janzen via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" target="_blank" class="">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br class=""></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div class="">I run a stock crank, crack tested, balanced, nitrided, with a vibration damper - no problem revving into the sevens, consistently. I’m not sure you need billet on a GT6. Never had a bottom end failure.<div class="">Rods - Carillo - only drawback is little tiny bolts that need to be torqued by stretch gauge. If you use the wrong lube on them you can overtorque them easily, and the little buggers cost about $40 each (ask me how I know).</div><div class="">Pistons - I’ve had good luck with Wiseco making them for me - reasonable price, good specs, will make them any way you want them.<br class=""><div class=""><br class=""><div class="">On Dec 5, 2021, at 10:18 PM, McKearn McKearn via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank" class="">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:</div><br class=""><div class=""><div dir="ltr" class="">Hi all.<div class=""> Am looking for info on GT6 billet crankshafts. Also looking for opinions on connecting rods and forged pistons. Starting with the bottom end this time..</div><div class=""> Thanks . P.J.</div></div>
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