<div dir="ltr">Can you explaine the longer rods and TR6 pistons to me please?<div> Thanks. P.J.</div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Dec 6, 2021 at 12:51 AM Geoff Byrne via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir="auto">You don’t need a billet crank in the 2litre motor mine revs to 8 but what you do need are 9 mm longer rods and then use TR 6 pistons <div>Geoff Byrne , TR racer down under<br><br><div dir="ltr">Sent from my iPad</div><div dir="ltr"><br><blockquote type="cite">On 6 Dec 2021, at 2:41 pm, Jason Sukey via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" target="_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr"><div dir="auto"><div>One more vote for a properly prepared stock crank. Mine is balanced and nitrided, but with a stock "damper". No issues reving safely north of 7,000. Auxiliary oiling to the front main bearings is a must for high rpm.</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">I have Pauter rods, a little heavier than Carillo's, but have larger bolts. (5/16" vs 1/4" if I remember correctly) </div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">I'm running Venolia forged pistons, they work well but have since gone out of business.</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">If you are going the custom rods/custom pistons route, consider having the pistons made with a shorter compression height than stock, and longer rods to match.</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">Jason<br><br><div class="gmail_quote" dir="auto"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Dec 5, 2021, 10:25 PM Scott Janzen via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" target="_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div style="overflow-wrap: break-word;">I run a stock crank, crack tested, balanced, nitrided, with a vibration damper - no problem revving into the sevens, consistently. I’m not sure you need billet on a GT6. Never had a bottom end failure.<div>Rods - Carillo - only drawback is little tiny bolts that need to be torqued by stretch gauge. If you use the wrong lube on them you can overtorque them easily, and the little buggers cost about $40 each (ask me how I know).</div><div>Pistons - I’ve had good luck with Wiseco making them for me - reasonable price, good specs, will make them any way you want them.<br><div><br><div>On Dec 5, 2021, at 10:18 PM, McKearn McKearn via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:</div><br><div><div dir="ltr">Hi all.<div> Am looking for info on GT6 billet crankshafts. Also looking for opinions on connecting rods and forged pistons. Starting with the bottom end this time..</div><div> Thanks . P.J.</div></div>
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