<div dir="ltr">i offer general comments from trying to understand this issue with modern race engines, however in days gone bye , i had my share of issues with oil pressures in race 2500 enignes<div><br></div><div>simplistically, high temperatures result in loss of kinematic viscosity and therefore reducing both pressure and metal-to-metal protection</div><div><br></div><div>in extreme cases, molecular bonds can get broken and not fully or even partially recover, so oil can be irrevocably "damaged" and the operator cant tell that unless the oil gets tested</div><div><br></div><div>most oils are tested and rated at 90C, so about 200F. experiments suggest about 250F is the point where most off-the-shelf oils can exhibit significant degradation in many properties, especially kinematic viscosity</div><div><br></div><div>dont forget, the temperature at a contact surface could be momentarily (and locally) much higher than what a probe in the sump might indicate as an 'average" </div><div><br></div><div>most oil suppliers will tell you if the oil temperature is much in excess of water temperature, you need to address that</div><div><br></div><div>if a reliable sump probe is indicating the oil there is much over 220F, i'd be doing more study to get to the bottom of the issue. </div><div><br></div><div>if you are trying to select an oil for a race engine, go looking at the data on kinematic viscosity at the 90C (test point) and that will give a clue to the oil that will best hold its viscosity at elevated temperatures. </div><div><br></div><div>Terry</div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Thu, Aug 26, 2021 at 6:37 AM dustin nicholson via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div><div style="font-family:"times new roman","new york",times,serif;font-size:13px"><div></div>
<div dir="ltr"><div><div dir="ltr" style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:"times new roman","new york",times,serif">Thanks guys, all the responses to the group and me individually are very helpful and appreciated. My responses and summary:</div><div dir="ltr" style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:"times new roman","new york",times,serif"><br></div><div dir="ltr" style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:"times new roman","new york",times,serif"><ul dir="ltr"><li>I already suspected the sensor or gauge were inaccurate, after your responses I'm even more confident that's what's going on. I will be snaking a thermocouple down the dip stick tube right after shut down to get a comparison reading. If needed, I might also put the sensor in boiling water to test accuracy. One idea suggested is that if I have a 10V gauge hooked up to 12V it could give a 20% higher reading therefore 290 degrees is actually 232 degrees. Y'all have no shortage of ideas I never thought of.</li><li>I will take your collective advice and add an oil cooler and high flow thermostat to allow the oil when cold to reach temperature. My previous FP Spitfire didn't need one as it ran too cool with a huge cross flow radiator even with the fan off (only used the fan on the grid). I guess TR3's are a different animal.</li><li>There is no oil return line from supercharger near the oil temp sensor. I think that was the question from Mike H.</li><li>I will be removing the supercharger and going back to SU's... at the same time that I raise the compression and maybe swap to a lumpier cam. But that won't happen until after a race weekend or two, CVAR Authenticity Steward is giving me time to get compliant. I don't want to give up the supercharger power until I can gain at least some of it back! </li></ul><div dir="ltr">Thanks,</div><div dir="ltr"><br></div></div><div dir="ltr" style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:"times new roman","new york",times,serif"><div style="color:rgb(38,40,42);font-family:"Helvetica Neue",Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif"><p><span style="font-size:10pt;font-family:"New serif"">Dusty Nicholson</span></p></div><div style="color:rgb(38,40,42);font-family:"Helvetica Neue",Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif"><p><span style="font-size:10pt;font-family:"New serif"">1955 TR3 #72</span></p></div><div style="color:rgb(38,40,42);font-family:"Helvetica Neue",Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif"><p><span style="font-size:10pt;font-family:"New serif"">1957 TR3 #43</span></p></div></div></div><br></div><div><br></div>
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On Wednesday, August 25, 2021, 02:56:25 PM CDT, Barr, Scott <<a href="mailto:sbarr@mccarty-law.com" target="_blank">sbarr@mccarty-law.com</a>> wrote:
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<p>Hear, hear! I don’t believe the gauge if you’re getting 170 measuring the pan and the pan is where the sender is for the oil temp. I’d try a new sender and a new gauge before I tore it all apart.</p>
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<p>And you said it’s a race car not a street car?? Did no one else say “wait…..supercharger??” I’m not one of those originality over all guys, and think a supercharger on a race car is a cool addition.</p>
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<p>Scott (B.)</p>
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<p><b>From:</b> Fot <<a href="mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net" target="_blank">fot-bounces@autox.team.net</a>> <b>On Behalf Of
</b>Doug Mitchell via Fot<br clear="none">
<b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, August 25, 2021 12:57 PM<br clear="none">
<b>To:</b> dustin nicholson <<a href="mailto:nicholsondustin@yahoo.com" target="_blank">nicholsondustin@yahoo.com</a>><br clear="none">
<b>Cc:</b> FOT Triumph <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" target="_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>><br clear="none">
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Fot] Oil temp</p>
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<p>Looking at the problem from another point of view, I would question the accuracy of the gauge. If you are seeing a 120 degree difference, something isn't right. Is the guage mechanical or electrical? If it is electrical, there could be
a mismatch between the sensor and the guage. I'd try another guage if you have one.</p>
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<p>On Wed, Aug 25, 2021, 12:51 PM dustin nicholson via Fot <<a shape="rect" href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:</p>
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<p><span style="font-size:10pt;font-family:"New serif"">Amici,</span></p>
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<p><span style="font-size:10pt;font-family:"New serif"">I'm sorting out a new to me race car and don't like that the oil temperature gauge reads around 290 degrees. I've never had an oil temp gauge on previous cars so I'm not
sure what's normal (240?) but 290 seems high to me. Yes?</span></p>
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<p><span style="font-size:10pt;font-family:"New serif""> </span></p>
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<p><span style="font-size:10pt;font-family:"New serif"">More temp info: Air temp is near 100 degrees. Water temp is steady 185 degrees. Big aluminum radiator with electric fan. No oil cooler. Oil temp sensor is in the aluminum
finned oil pan. IR temp gun says the outside of the pan is 170 degrees. Maybe the oil temp gauge is wrong? I wouldn't expect such a big difference between the outside of the pan and the oil temp.</span></p>
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<p><span style="font-size:10pt;font-family:"New serif""> </span></p>
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<p><span style="font-size:10pt;font-family:"New serif"">Engine info: mild engine, stock compression, fast road cam (270 is my guess), supercharger with the medium size pully, pump gas</span></p>
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<p><span style="font-size:10pt;font-family:"New serif""> </span></p>
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<p><span style="font-size:10pt;font-family:"New serif"">Maybe I'm worrying about nothing. I just know that racing in 2 weeks at Eagles Canyon in Texas is going to be hot and I want to make it through the weekend.</span></p>
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<p><span style="font-size:10pt;font-family:"New serif""> </span></p>
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<p><span style="font-size:10pt;font-family:"New serif"">Thanks,</span></p>
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<p><span style="font-size:10pt;font-family:"New serif"">Dusty Nicholson</span></p>
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<p><span style="font-size:10pt;font-family:"New serif"">1955 TR3 #72</span></p>
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<p><span style="font-size:10pt;font-family:"New serif"">1957 TR3 #43</span></p>
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