<html><head><meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class="">I would add that some of these diffs used a crushable spacer, I’m told, rather than a hard spacer and shims. In that case, I’m not sure you can simply re-tighten the nut. Yes, these are tapered bearings with a spacer in between.<div class="">Here’s some instructions that summarize this better than I can. If you have a nut with a cotter pin, it would seem you are in luck.</div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class=""><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);" class="">The pinion seal gets a bit more involved on later diff units; if yours has a castle nut and cotter pin holding the flange to the front of the pinion you can just take it off, remove the flange and swap out the seals re-torque the nut to the work shop manual spec. </span><br style="clear: both; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" class=""><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);" class="">If instead you find a cap similar to a front wheel bearing cap and inside that a nylock nut you must be very careful to mark the shaft the flange and the nut so on reassembly you can get them back in EXACTLY the same relative positions; THIS INCLUDES TAKING A COUNT OF EXACTLY HOW MANY TURNS THE NUT TAKES. For example: you turn the nut 12 turns and three flats to get it off, then you must turn it twelve turns and three flats putting it on. Your marks should now line up. If they don't quite line up you can tweak the nut a bit to bring them into line. If they have gone beyond DON'T back off. The reason for this fussiness is that the pinion preload is set by a crush sleeve. If you get back to the same place the preload is not changed. If you go farther you change the preload, but in a worn unit it probably won't be off much it is only a fraction of a flat we're talking about. If you back off you release the preload. </span><br class=""><div><br class=""><div class="">On May 19, 2021, at 12:24 PM, Chip Collingwood via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" class="">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:</div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=""><div dir="auto" class="">Yes, the front flange holds the pinion bearings tight.<div dir="auto" class="">Did you mark the nut and shaft before removing them and the flange. If not then it will be difficult to get the proper pinion pre-load and depth.</div><div dir="auto" class=""><br class=""></div><div dir="auto" class="">Chip</div></div><br class=""><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Wed, May 19, 2021, 12:09 PM Ronnie Babbitt via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" class="">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br class=""></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">I had planned to change the pinion seals on my diff while I have it out. I removed the front support bracket and removed the nut along with the front pinion seal. With the seal out of the case I have this movement. When assembled,I did not notice any movement. Is this normal movement with no seal in place? Are the pinion bearings cone shaped? If so would this allow for movement? <br class="">
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The gear set looks absolutely remarkablea, no scoring or wear. The bearing spins freely. This is a GT6/ Late Spit diff used in my sports six. <br class="">
<br class="">
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