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Yes Tony, thank you. Lots to digest.<br>
<br>
As far a 'look cool', there's nothing cooler than where you sit on
the time sheet...<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 1/19/2021 5:17 AM, fubog1 wrote:<br>
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cite="mid:585452409.2061179.1611062254418@mail.yahoo.com">
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<div> <font size="2">Excellent write-up Tony!</font><br>
</div>
<div> <font size="2">Glen</font><br>
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<div
style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----Original
Message-----<br>
From: Tony Drews via Fot <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net"><fot@autox.team.net></a><br>
To: Alec Buchan <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:agb@compsnw.com"><agb@compsnw.com></a>; <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net">fot@autox.team.net</a>
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net"><fot@autox.team.net></a><br>
Sent: Mon, Jan 18, 2021 5:20 pm<br>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Weber help and/or advice<br>
<br>
<div dir="ltr">Alec, in my experience (also a TR-4), you can
make just as much power <br clear="none">
with a well tuned set of SU's as with Webers. My dad (Jack)
ran SU's, I <br clear="none">
have Weber 42's (came with the car). We were virtually the
same speed / <br clear="none">
power. Took us both a while to get there and required
running on the <br clear="none">
Dyno to dial them in.<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
From what I understand, the "Cannon" intake manifolds are
considered <br clear="none">
the best. I discovered that the 42's (which are rare as
hen's teeth) <br clear="none">
take the same internal bits as the 40's, so I think the
advantage is <br clear="none">
more psychological than anything over the 40's. I ended up
with the <br clear="none">
biggest chokes (venturi) that would fit - I think 36 mm was
as big as I <br clear="none">
could go. I do have a set of 45's that I keep threatening
to spiff up <br clear="none">
and try. I suspect that going to a 38 mm choke would be the
hot ticket <br clear="none">
for my engine. Depending on the build, 40's work pretty
well. Big <br clear="none">
bore, billet crank, hairy cam, high RPM would probably
benefit from 45's.<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
What I found on the Dyno is that there's a ton of power in
just getting <br clear="none">
the mixture right across the rev range. I ended up with
pretty small <br clear="none">
air correction jets to keep it from going lean at high
RPM's. I <br clear="none">
probably gained around 20 HP just by tuning the carbs.<br
clear="none">
<br clear="none">
From what I understand, comparing jetting from one engine
build to <br clear="none">
another is pretty haphazard, it's best to tune it to the
specific engine <br clear="none">
rather than just copy someone else's jetting. Also, I
believe the <br clear="none">
emulsion tube can make quite a bit of difference, so just
comparing main <br clear="none">
/ air jet sizes if you're not running the same emulsion tube
kinda <br clear="none">
invalidates the comparison. In my case I just used the
emulsion tubes <br clear="none">
that came in the carb's and didn't try alternates. I
believe the big <br clear="none">
differences in those is more for part-throttle driveability
which I <br clear="none">
generally ignore. If I can drive it to the grid it's fine,
otherwise <br clear="none">
it's pretty much just wide open or closed, not a lot of part
throttle. <br clear="none">
But other drivers may use more part throttle and so the
emulsion tubes <br clear="none">
would be of greater importance.<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
I love the looks of the webers, but Jack was able to get
decent mixture <br clear="none">
control with SU's and some slighly custom needles - I think
he took RB's <br clear="none">
and skinnied down the tips to be more of the RA needle
profile there. <br clear="none">
He also ran 0.104" jets to get enough fuel out (stock is
0.100"). We <br clear="none">
would draft each other at Road America, so were pretty close
in overall <br clear="none">
power.<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
I'm not quite sure what kind of advice you're looking for -
should I do <br clear="none">
it or not? What specific setup should I get? What carb
settings should <br clear="none">
I start with? None of these have cut and dried answers in
my opinion.<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
Should I do it? Maybe, but you can also get similar results
with good <br clear="none">
well tuned SU's. The webers look awesome though.<br
clear="none">
<br clear="none">
Which setup to get? Partially depends on the engine build.
I suspect <br clear="none">
you'd be happier with 40's on a decent manifold with a
decent linkage. <br clear="none">
If you have a monster motor you'll want 45's.<br
clear="none">
<br clear="none">
Starting setup? If 40's, 36 mm chokes, possibly 150 mains
with about <br clear="none">
130 airs is roughly where I ended up (need to dig through
the expensive <br clear="none">
box of brass bits to verify). No idea what emulsion tube or
accelerator <br clear="none">
pumps I'm running.<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
One advantage of the webers is that they DO have accel
pumps, so getting <br clear="none">
the engine started on a cold day without the choke is easier
than with <br clear="none">
the SU's.<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
I found the tuning of SU's to be more obvious than the
Webers. I used a <br clear="none">
couple of books and Teri Ann's website to get a good
understanding of <br clear="none">
what I was doing with the Webers. The big aha for me was
understanding <br clear="none">
that the main jet affects the mixture across the entire rev
range while <br clear="none">
the air correction affects high RPM mixture more than low
RPM mixture. <br clear="none">
Changing the air correction does also affect lower RPM
mixture so they <br clear="none">
need to be tweaked in combination with each other. Getting
the air <br clear="none">
correction small enough that it didn't lean out at high RPM
but big <br clear="none">
enough so it didn't richen at high RPM was my key, then I
tweaked the <br clear="none">
main jets for max power and maybe went a step richer to keep
the pistons <br clear="none">
un-molten.<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
Regards, Tony Drews<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
On 1/18/2021 2:54 PM, Alec Buchan via Fot wrote:<br
clear="none">
> It looks like I am moving up a group and in order to
not maintain my <br clear="none">
> 'blue caboose' moniker, I am looking at converting to
Webers. Moss and <br clear="none">
> Pierce sell a 2 x 40 DCOE kit but I've also located a 2
x 45 DCOE kit <br clear="none">
> (not from Moss or Pierce). looking for recommendations,
if you might <br clear="none">
> be so kind.<br clear="none">
><br clear="none">
> On a side note, the few of us here in the PNW are
looking forward to <br clear="none">
> seeing all you 'front of the packers' in Portland this
summer.<br clear="none">
><br clear="none">
> Kindly,<br clear="none">
><br clear="none">
> Alec Buchan<br clear="none">
> Bellingham, WA<br clear="none">
> '62 TR4 #5 (aka the Blue Caboose)<br clear="none">
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