<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto">When I set up my Bugeye way back when, the SCCA boys told me to use motorcycle shock oil which was heavier and wouldn’t damage the shock seals. I also unsoldered the valve end and turned it in several times (don’t remember the exact number) and then re-soldered it. Worked well for auto cross.<br><br><div dir="ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div><div dir="ltr"><br><blockquote type="cite">On Jan 19, 2021, at 8:14 AM, Dave Connitt via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr"><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">Tony and Bob,<div>Thanks for the additional information on the links and shock oil viscosity. I will be taking a closer look at those links. Regarding the shock oil, I have found I can buy motorcycle fork oil in 10wt, 15wt and 20wt on Amazon. I can’t honestly remember what I put in mine when I restored them but I do remember saving the bottle as I didn’t use it all. Another reason to straighten up the garage!</div><div>I also wanted to mention that I had a interesting issue in the past years of driving the car when the bolts holding the passenger side rear shock backed out. The first time I started hearing a clunk in the back and when I removed the passenger side rear wheel I found that one shock bolt was gone and the other one was hanging on with about 2 threads left. I had used the original bolts and flat washers to attach the shocks. I bought new grade 8 bolts and split lock washers. The second time, I switched out the split lock washers for internal tooth lock washers and put red Locktite on the bolt threads and they seem to be holding. One other thing is that after I sand blasted the frame I welded in one of the TSI IRS differential frame gusset strengthening kits and also the front lower control arm gusset bracket kits.</div><div>I can’t explain why the passenger side rear shock bolts would come loose but the Locktite and internal tooth lock washers seem to be holding.</div><div>Dave Connitt </div><div><br><div dir="ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div><div dir="ltr"><br><blockquote type="cite">On Jan 19, 2021, at 8:20 AM, Tony Sheach via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr">
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Hi all
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<div>There are a couple of other options in terms of lever arm dampers and also I need to sling in a note of caution on filling them up with thicker oil.</div>
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<div>Firstly on other options, Armstrong also made a twin valve adjustable DAS10 lever arm damper. These are more or less a straight bolt on with a little bit of relieving of the bracket on the 4a, more or less the same on the 250/5/6 but not don’t that for
a long time. You can find them from time to time on eBay but they are fairly expensive (circa £700 for a decent pair) but they do give you 24 position adjustment via a big knurled knob on the side (which is why you need to relieve the mounting a bit. Totally
period and legal for regulations including FIA if that’s relevant.</div>
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<div>It’s a different. Deal for the TR4 (and earlier cars) in the the smaller DAS9 was used, but you can also get twin valve and twin valve adjustables in that size which again are either a straight bolt on or with the adjustable you need to notch the chassis
leg to accommodate the knob. The four factory rally TR4’s (what we call 3VC, 4VC, 5VC and 6VC) all use DAS10 rear shocks and custom mounts on the chassis, so that can also be done.</div>
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<div>Secondly, on oil you can use thicker oil but firstly it degrades over time like any other oil and the hotter it gets, the faster this happens. Usually the thicker the oil, the more heat the piston in the shock develops and the hotter the whole thing gets,
the more pressure there is inside until either the seals blow or the piston sticks and holes the casing. Been there and done that, so my advice would be not to go mad. 20/50 engine oil or gearbox oil is definitely a no no.</div>
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<div>Best to all</div>
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<div>Tony</div>
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<div dir="ltr">Sent from my iPad</div>
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On 19 Jan 2021, at 11:47, Robert Lang via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote:<br>
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<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">One quick tip - the quality of the stock shock links available now is okay, but they won't stand up to a lot of abuse. I get maybe 3 seasons' use before they start to fail.</div>
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<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">I switched to the Goodparts rose-joint version last year or the year before and they hold up much better. I would argue that they are worth every penny.</div>
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<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Regards,</div>
<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Bob Lang<br>
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<div>On Monday, January 18, 2021, 6:08:24 PM EST, Dave Connitt via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote:
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<div dir="ltr">Say,<br>
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<div dir="ltr">I just wanted to say “thanks” to all that responded to my question in rear lever vs. tube shocks. At least now I understand the trade offs better.<br>
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<div dir="ltr">This is a great group! I am going try changing the shock oil to something thicker first but I am going to stay with lever shocks for sure.<br>
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<div dir="ltr">Now we just need some decent temperatures..<br>
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<div dir="ltr">Regards,<br>
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<div dir="ltr">Dave Connitt<br>
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<div dir="ltr">Sent from my iPhone<br>
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