<div dir="ltr">When I got my TR4A it had sat for decades. One of the rear shocks leaked badly and I decided to tear it down and have a look. It had stiffer versions of the little springs, if I recall they were blue instead of gold. I got curious and looked at a couple of other set of old "racing" lever shocks I had acquired and found that one racer had soldered the standard spring into a tighter coil, maybe with a little wasjer to stiffen the rebound a little. I only had one of those shocked so I copied that and made a pair. They worked just fine.<br clear="all"><div><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_signature" data-smartmail="gmail_signature"><div dir="ltr">Bob Kramer</div></div></div><br></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Jan 18, 2021 at 11:34 AM fubog1 via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
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<div> <font size="2">I've always felt that was a lot of $$ & effort for what gains???</font></div>
<div><font size="2">There's nothing wrong with the standard lever-action design, and Apple Hydraulics will do a 10% stiffer if you want.</font></div>
<div><font size="2">It's hard to evaluate a shock by the push/pull method since they have a high & low speed function, and you can't feel the high speed by working it by hand.</font></div>
<div><font size="2">A tube shock conversion does make sense on an all-out spec racecar because they've developed them to a point where the ability to adjust the rate & proportioning is almost infinite.</font></div>
<div><font size="2">Most vintage racers/racecars don't fall into that category, and some groups still have vintage rules (I think <img src="https://s.aolcdn.com/cdn.webmail.aol.com/resources/core/images/emoji/thinkingface.png" alt="Thinking face" title="Thinking face" style="vertical-align: text-bottom;" width="25" height="25">)</font></div>
<div><font size="2"><font size="2">Besides the ability for limited adjustment on some, which is a big plus, I don't see the benefits for most vintage applications, nor street cars.</font></font></div>
<div><font size="2">Now having said/typed that, this is just my personal opinion, many folks use them, and I'm sure will chime in with their thoughts... </font><br>
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<div><font size="2">Glen Efinger</font><br>
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<div style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Dave Connitt via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" target="_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>><br>
To: FOT <<a href="mailto:FOT@autox.team.net" target="_blank">FOT@autox.team.net</a>><br>
Sent: Mon, Jan 18, 2021 12:06 pm<br>
Subject: [Fot] Lever arm shocks vs. tube shock conversion<br>
<br>
<div dir="ltr">Hi all,<br>
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<div dir="ltr">I am new to the FOS list. I own a 1967 TR4A-IRS that I finished restoring back in 2013 (DavesTR4A. com). It’s running stock lever type rear shocks that other than cleaning and painting and adding new links, I just reinstalled in the the car during the restoration. They seem to have resistance when I push/pull them so I am pretty sure they work as designed. <br>
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<div dir="ltr">The car has always been kind of skittish on rough roads and I am considering switching to a tube shock conversion, specifically the one that bolts directly to the existing shock mounts.<br>
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<div dir="ltr">Originality isn’t my main focus here. I like to drive it aggressively.<br>
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<div dir="ltr">I would be interested in anyone’s experience with switching from rear lever shocks to chassis mounted (using the stock shock mounting points) regarding handling improvement or not.<br>
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<div dir="ltr">Thanks in advance,<br>
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<div dir="ltr">Dave Connitt<br>
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<div dir="ltr">‘67 TR4A-IRS<br>
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