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Greg: We do the same @ 12.1 and have not had a problem for years. Careful assembly, straight block & head & correct cyl hight with a good composite gasket works for us.
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<blockquote type="cite">On Aug 1, 2020, at 2:44 PM, Greg Blake via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote:<br>
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<div dir="ltr"> All really good advice, especially following one recipe no mixing and matching and it will work out for you.
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<div>I really wanted to chime in on the reliability of the Payne type (composite) gaskets. I’ve got a race motor with 12.75 compression with about 20 race weekends on it. And yes I push my motor pretty hard. I’ve always used the Payne style gaskets. </div>
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<div>Wow now I’ve done it, I’m sure I have a motor rebuild in my near future now. </div>
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<div>Best of luck,</div>
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<div>Greg<br>
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<blockquote type="cite">On Aug 1, 2020, at 1:29 PM, Phil Gott via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote:<br>
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<div dir="ltr">The folks at Racetorations swear by .005 to .007 with a steel shin head gasket. I do that with no trouble.<br>
Phil<br>
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<blockquote type="cite">On Aug 1, 2020, at 1:47 PM, Mordy Dunst via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote:<br>
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<div dir="ltr">The original cylinder sleeve specs are for original factory head gaskets. They are very squishy and compress a long way. Thats why its good to retorque “factory” head gaskets after a heat cycle. The space within is occupied by air which expands
and degasses. Thats why the compress further after initial torque. Sleeves compress .001” minimal - depending on wall thickness. I measured this at 100 lbs torque.
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<div>Different gaskets might need different sleeve protrusion. I make an assortment of products either to raise the cylinder or add a ring circling the sleeve on top between gasket and head. </div>
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<div>Its actually pretty simple. <br>
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<div id="__aol_mail_signature__">MDunst <a dir="ltr" href="http://Headgasket.com" x-apple-data-detectors="true" x-apple-data-detectors-type="link" x-apple-data-detectors-result="0">
Headgasket.com</a> <a dir="ltr" href="tel:626.358.1616" x-apple-data-detectors="true" x-apple-data-detectors-type="telephone" x-apple-data-detectors-result="1">
626.358.1616</a>
<div>Fax <a dir="ltr" href="tel:626.628.3777" x-apple-data-detectors="true" x-apple-data-detectors-type="telephone" x-apple-data-detectors-result="2">626.628.3777</a> </div>
<div>Triple R Munitions, Inc <a dir="ltr" href="tel:626.201.9471" x-apple-data-detectors="true" x-apple-data-detectors-type="telephone" x-apple-data-detectors-result="3">
626.201.9471</a> </div>
<div>T FFL 6,7 SOT 2</div>
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<div class="aolmail_replyHeader">On Saturday, August 1, 2020, Jack Wheeler via Fot <<a dir="ltr" href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" x-apple-data-detectors="true" x-apple-data-detectors-type="link" x-apple-data-detectors-result="4">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:
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<div dir="ltr">The spec on liner protrusion is actually .003" - .005", and this is critical. I found one at .002" one time, and tried it anyway. It didn't work! So, measure carefully and make sure you have at ;least .003" protrusion.</div>
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<div>On Saturday, August 1, 2020, 9:59:23 AM EDT, Russell Westfall <<a dir="ltr" href="mailto:rwestfall@ymail.com" x-apple-data-detectors="true" x-apple-data-detectors-type="link" x-apple-data-detectors-result="6">rwestfall@ymail.com</a>> wrote:
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<div>I absolutely concur about the sleeve standing proud of the block, however, be careful that you don't have too much protrusion, (ask me how I know🤔) I believe the spec is 2 to 5 thousandths. I use a copper gasket so I'm at about 3. Morty Dunst made my
gasket and he can do them in various thicknesses.
<div>Cheers!</div>
<div>Russ Westfall <br clear="none">
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On Saturday, August 1, 2020, 4:52 AM, Phil Gott via Fot <<a dir="ltr" href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" x-apple-data-detectors="true" x-apple-data-detectors-type="link" x-apple-data-detectors-result="7">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:</p>
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<div>Michael;
<div>It is also critical that the liners protrude above the block by .005 to .007” to ensure a good seal. This is before any compression of the figure 8 gaskets. If the protrusion is less, the top of the block should be milled to achieve the proper protrusion.</div>
<div>If you have milled the head more than about .060 you should consider staking the head around the bores between cylinders two and three per the Kastner book. It is weak in this area.</div>
<div>The rest of the advice you’ve received is pretty sound, but I have not tried all of it.</div>
<div>Depending on how much you’ve milled the head and what you have done with the combustion chambers, you may need to reshape the fire ring area of your gasket. It must not protrude at all into the combustion chamber.</div>
<div>Phil<br clear="none">
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<blockquote type="cite">On Jul 31, 2020, at 6:25 PM, Jack Wheeler via Fot <<a dir="ltr" href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" x-apple-data-detectors="true" x-apple-data-detectors-type="link" x-apple-data-detectors-result="8">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br clear="none">
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<div dir="ltr"><span><cite class="yiv8400467774ydpff303fbdyiv9752833917ydp93995a00algo-display-url">I've read all of the comments, but haven't heard anything about Cometic. I had rebuilt my TR-3 engine a number of years ago, using the stock head gasket. I
built the engine as I would have built one of my race engines in the day, except with a milder cam and less compression (10.5:1). From day 1 it never really ran right. I began to suspect coolant was getting into the combustion chamber, so I bought one of
those test kits where you pull some coolant out while the engine is running and add a chemical which tests for hydrocarbons. Sure enough, hydrocarbons were getting into my coolant system. That says bad head gasket or crack in the head. Since I'd had the
head magnafluxed during the rebuild, I assumed it was the head gasket.</cite></span></div>
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<div dir="ltr"><span><cite class="yiv8400467774ydpff303fbdyiv9752833917ydp93995a00algo-display-url">I began asking around about where I could get a good gasket. A guy at a local engine shop (primarily Ford engines) recommended Cometic. I had never heard of
them, and told him the engine was over 50 years old, so surely they would not make a gasket for it. He encouraged me to check the internet, and sure enough, they make a whole bunch of them for the TR engine. It's been a few years ago, but as I recall, they
had gaskets for different bores (i.e. 83MM, 86MM, 87MM, etc.) and you could order different thicknesses. They stacked steel gaskets on top of each other to get to the thickness desired. I think I ordered a 3 layer gasket. It all sounded a little fishy,
but based on the strong recommendation I had received, I ordered one.</cite></span></div>
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<div dir="ltr"><span><cite class="yiv8400467774ydpff303fbdyiv9752833917ydp93995a00algo-display-url">I removed the bad head gasket and replaced it with the Cometic gasket, and suddenly the engine ran great. I have put almost 7.000 miles on the car since then
and haven't had a problem. It runs cool (even on 95 degree days, as tested recently), pulls strong, and no sign of any coolant leaks. By the way, I noticed someone else recommended Hylomar gasket cement. I also used that. A light coat on all sealing surfaces
does the trick. Do not spray a thick coat. Below is the link to the Cometic web site. Check it out.<br clear="none">
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<div dir="ltr"><a rel="nofollow" shape="rect" class="yiv8400467774ydpff303fbdyiv9752833917enhancr_card_6247372032" target="_blank" href="https://www.cometic.com/">Cometic Gasket - Sealed Under Extreme Pressure</a></div>
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Cometic Gasket - Sealed Under Extreme Pressure</h2>
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Cometic Gasket supplies hi-performance gaskets for a variety of motorsports markets: ATV, Drag Race, Domestic Au...</p>
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Jack
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<div>On Friday, July 31, 2020, 5:27:49 PM EDT, mleccese1--- via Fot <<a dir="ltr" href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" x-apple-data-detectors="true" x-apple-data-detectors-type="link" x-apple-data-detectors-result="9">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:
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<div>Phil, Dave,</div>
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<div>I may have compromised my head gasket last weekend at Lime Rock (Green TR4 #802), can you or someone recommend one that is robust.</div>
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<div>Thank you</div>
<div>Michael L<br clear="none">
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