<html><head><meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html charset=utf-8"></head><body style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space;" class="">I did the Toyota caliper and larger rear wheel cylinder conversion on my TR6 long ago and over the years have developed what I call the “Triumph Tap” method of braking. I give a little tap on the brake pedal before fully apply the brakes, which gave me a less travel on the pedal. It got to be such a habit that I had to learn to stop doing it when driving the race car because it’s a detriment when heel/toe braking. <div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">Most of the pedal travel seemed to be in “waking up” the caliper pistons as they tended to spread a bit from some flex in the whole wheel/caliper/rotor system. It was more apparent when auto crossing as that system got flexed a lot more than normal driving. I got used to it and never bothered with a larger brake MC.<div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">Bud Rolofson<br class=""><br class="">Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)<br class=""><br class="">71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)<br class="">71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3<br class="">69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car)<br class="">93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle <br class="">77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)</div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class=""><br class=""><div class=""><br class=""><div><blockquote type="cite" class=""><div class="">On Apr 17, 2020, at 7:02 AM, Greg Lemon <<a href="mailto:grglmn@gmail.com" class="">grglmn@gmail.com</a>> wrote:</div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=""><div dir="auto" class="">I looked into this a while back, did the conversion, never liked the extra pedal travel, I think maybe there is a 70s or 89s Jag MC with a slightly larger bore that works.<div dir="auto" class=""><br class=""></div><div dir="auto" class="">Greg Lemon</div><div dir="auto" class="">TR250</div></div><br class=""><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Fri, Apr 17, 2020, 7:55 AM Jerry Van Vlack <<a href="mailto:jerryvv@roadrunner.com" class="">jerryvv@roadrunner.com</a>> wrote:<br class=""></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
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<div style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: Calibri;" class="">
<div class="">Folks,</div>
<div class=""> </div>
<div class="">I’ve converted my TR4A to the dual TR6 with booster braking system.
Recently I did the Toyota front caliper and larger rear wheel cylinder
conversion. Braking is great but I don’t care for how far the pedal travels
before engaging the brakes. I know I’m moving more fluid due to the increased
size of the combined piston areas over the stock system.</div>
<div class=""> </div>
<div class="">My question is has anyone who has also done the Toyota caliper and larger
rear wheel cylinders found a larger displacement master cylinder that is a bolt
in replacement for the TR6 master cylinder and what is your result?</div>
<div class=""> </div>
<div class="">JVV</div></div></div></div>
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