<div dir="ltr"><div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:small">Ive got the same setup on my TR6. I ended up making minor adjustments to the rod from the brake booster to reduce the free travel, but with caution since an overextension will result in locked brakes. Check this link out where they found a Wilwood master cylinder to their TR6 <a href="http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/wilwood_master_cylinder.htm">http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/wilwood_master_cylinder.htm</a></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Fri, Apr 17, 2020 at 8:55 AM Jerry Van Vlack via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
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<div style="font-size:12pt;font-family:Calibri;color:rgb(0,0,0)">
<div>Folks,</div>
<div> </div>
<div>I’ve converted my TR4A to the dual TR6 with booster braking system.
Recently I did the Toyota front caliper and larger rear wheel cylinder
conversion. Braking is great but I don’t care for how far the pedal travels
before engaging the brakes. I know I’m moving more fluid due to the increased
size of the combined piston areas over the stock system.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>My question is has anyone who has also done the Toyota caliper and larger
rear wheel cylinders found a larger displacement master cylinder that is a bolt
in replacement for the TR6 master cylinder and what is your result?</div>
<div> </div>
<div>JVV</div></div></div></div>
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