<html><head><meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class="">interesting. A google search indicates this is available in Europe, but not sold directly in the US. As such, it’s pretty expensive here.<div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">Scott<br class=""><div><br class=""><div class="">On Mar 4, 2020, at 5:59 AM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" class="">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:</div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=""><div dir="ltr" class=""><div dir="ltr" class="">like most racers, ive had my fair share of leaking triumph heads and have tried copper rings, fancy gaskets, plain gaskets, magic goo etc etc., with none of them totally fixing it <div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">
unless the crankcase breather blocked,
they never really leaked badly there when new (some weeped), so its mostly a result of all the stuff we do to them to make them go faster. certainly. facing 2-3mm off the head does not help, as the edge gets very thin and
the clamp force over by the pushrods is not great on any of them, so its no wonder they leak at worst and weep at best
. Ive concluded crankcase pressure build up is a big issue to be solved as others have discussed<br class=""><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class=""></div><div class="">long ago, i changed to using multiple vents/breathers but the biggest improvement was using WURT 250 sealant on every joint , and my last race 2.5 is totally leak free, ie zero, not even a stain. BUT, no paper gaskets!!<br class=""></div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">my "secret' is to follow WURT instructions and lay a tiny round bead on the block edge near the pushrods and let it 'skin'...about 10-15 minutes before fitting the head (just enough time for a cuppa). Do not finger it and try to smooth it out. By all means , fit the head with whatever "quality" gasket that your heart desires. For what its worth , i use a copper gasket and just re-anneal it every time. ive never found any spray or brush on sealant really works (or is needed) on a conventional head gasket, but some copper ones may benefit</div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">we used this WURT 250 sealant in our engine shop for years and all-but eliminated warranty claims for leaking gaskets. A version called WURT 250 RED is great on triumph gearboxes, and overdrives, again, zero leaks if applied correctly. For the very best result, every surface must be washed with thinners or acetone, and not touched by hands etc thereafter. it has a limited shelf life of about a few weeks once opened , but we used tubes of it every week, so that was not an issue.</div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">i hope this might assist someone</div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">Terry</div><div class="">(down under, but not quite as far "down" as geoff Byrne) </div><div class=""><br class=""></div></div></div><div class="gmail_quote"><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><br class="">
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