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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=purple><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal>The lengths and positions for the head studs on the TR-3/4 motors is in the manual. <o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>By this time ALL original head studs, rod bolts, main cap bolts and assorted nuts/washers are scrap metal only for a race motor. Main cap bolts should be thrown away and replaced by ARP studs.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>If you use the ARP head stud kit (Moss carries it) refer to the tech section in the ARP manual on these fasteners as it is very interesting. The ARP manual is on-line. In general I do the following;<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoListParagraph style='text-indent:-.25in;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1'><![if !supportLists]><span style='mso-list:Ignore'>1.<span style='font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"'> </span></span><![endif]>I mark the bottom of all head studs with a # using an electric scribe. I lightly sand flat. <o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoListParagraph style='text-indent:-.25in;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1'><![if !supportLists]><span style='mso-list:Ignore'>2.<span style='font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"'> </span></span><![endif]>Using a 12” caliper I measure and record the length of all of the studs on my build sheet, 1 through 10. Try to do this at about 70 degrees F.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoListParagraph style='text-indent:-.25in;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1'><![if !supportLists]><span style='mso-list:Ignore'>3.<span style='font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"'> </span></span><![endif]>When rebuilding the motor I recheck the lengths of each stud and when it has stretched .001 beyond new I replace it as it is in failure. This will happen after several rebuilds, possible 5 or 6. The ARP spec is to replace after .0005, I just looked it up, but that is damn hard to measure with a caliper and I do not have a 12” micrometer. This is not F1 where they just get replaced after one race.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoListParagraph style='text-indent:-.25in;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1'><![if !supportLists]><span style='mso-list:Ignore'>4.<span style='font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"'> </span></span><![endif]>When installing I always use ARP lube and a good torque wrench. Quality fasteners are like a springs, they need to be stretched to work properly but there is a limit as to how many times this will happen with the fastener going back to it’s original length. They will not hold proper toque when they start to fail. On a lightly stressed street motor this may not be so important, on a race motor the bang can cost thousands.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>All of the fasteners in an engine (the critical ones like head studs, rod bolts, main studs) are consumable items in a race motor. I also only install rod bolts with a stretch gauge. I find that the torque to proper stretch, say .005, will vary as much as 5 pounds per bolt. Each brand of rod bolt has a stretch spec for that specific bolt. <o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>That’s my 2 cents on the subject.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Good Racing All, Ken<o:p></o:p></p></div></body></html>