<div dir="ltr">I did that for years and I am looking for a better way!<br clear="all"><div><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_signature" data-smartmail="gmail_signature"><div dir="ltr">Bob Kramer</div></div></div><br></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue, Dec 31, 2019 at 12:13 PM Duncan Charlton <<a href="mailto:duncan.charlton54@gmail.com">duncan.charlton54@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
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<div dir="auto">Bob, I usually drive my race cars up onto wood ramps to allow the arms to swing under. They’re made of doubled 2X8s with staggered 45˚ angles at one end (so I can drive up the first 1-1/2” and have the tire completely on the board already before going up the second 1-1/2” rise) and scraps of inner tube stapled to the bottom to keep them from sliding on the floor as I drive on.</div>
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<div>Duncan</div>
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<div name="messageReplySection">On Dec 31, 2019, 11:36 AM -0600, Bob Kramer via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" target="_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>>, wrote:<br>
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<div dir="ltr">Got all the power stuff covered. With 40 foot depth I choose to run most everything down the middle at 20'. The welder and compressor 220V are on the opposite wall from the breaker box.. I have another tip that I can pass on from Robert MacKenzie, I plan on a free floor lift and getting the arms under teh car is always a pain. Robert puts his car on a set of dollies first. makes the arm swing a breeze.<br clear="all">
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<div dir="ltr">Bob Kramer</div>
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<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue, Dec 31, 2019 at 11:01 AM Bob Bownes -Seiri <<a href="mailto:bownes@seiri.com" target="_blank">bownes@seiri.com</a>> wrote:<br></div>
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<div dir="ltr">It’s overkill, but I have an electrical reel and air hose reel over each bay. It comes in terribly handy. </div>
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<div dir="ltr">Don’t know about the planned lift, but mine is 220VAC, so don’t forget you may need that. </div>
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<div dir="ltr">On that note, I’ve been accumulating Real Machine Tools of late that all need 220 3phase. So 220 drops are going in around the shop for those and the welder. I find it easier to move the welder to the work than the work to the welder sometimes. </div>
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<blockquote type="cite" style="margin:5px;padding-left:10px;border-left:thin solid rgb(52,152,219)">On Dec 31, 2019, at 11:54, Bob Kramer via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" target="_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br>
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<div dir="ltr">Those are great ideas. I used the RapidAir tubing system and I have an overhead run 20' in. Dropping a line down and mounting it on both posts of the lifts would be a simple upgrade.. I did think ahead and wired in an extra 30 amp circuit up top. I was planning on using a retractable electric hose reel but dropping an outlet to the posts might be a better plan.
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<div dir="ltr">Bob Kramer</div>
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<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue, Dec 31, 2019 at 8:52 AM Bill Tobin via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" target="_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div>
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<p>Bob put the lift in the easiest accessible best lighted spot in the shop. Also run air and power outlets to the lift; this eliminates stringing hoses and cords across the floor. Put a workbench close to the lift area; maybe on wheels. You can also never have too much shelving. Or lighting especially as we age and eyesight isn't quite what is used to be! And maybe have a small room sectioned off for your lathe milling machine and maybe surface grinder.</p>
<p>While you're at it maybe add another 10 or 20 feet to the original specs!<br></p>
<p>Ask me how I learned all this stuff!</p>
<p>Happy New Year everyone.</p>
<p>Cheers Bill<br></p>
<div>On 12/31/2019 8:46 AM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote:<br></div>
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<div dir="ltr">Is that a 50 x 30?
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<div>I built a 30 X 40 and it took the better part of a year to get it outfitted between other stuff. Shelving, electrical, lighting, work benches and air lines. With a 12' front door on a 30' front, I still can't decide where to put a lift.</div>
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<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Dec 30, 2019 at 12:04 PM John Styduhar via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" target="_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div>
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<div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:small">I recently picked up an early TR4 frame from a fellow WPTA club member that is in decent shape and have all the necessary bits to build a wide track for my TR3. This will be my next project after outfitting my new headquarters. </div>
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<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Dec 30, 2019 at 10:57 AM Mark J Bradakis via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" target="_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:5px;padding-left:10px;border-left:thin solid rgb(155,89,182)">This TR3 Beta got me thinking. The TR4 was based on a modified TR3<br>
frame. The TR4A frame was a totally new design, and adaptable to either<br>
the IRS or solid axle rear suspension. The TR6 used basically the same<br>
frame. Are there solid axle TR6s out there?<br>
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mjb.<br>
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