<div dir="ltr">Got all the power stuff covered. With 40 foot depth I choose to run most everything down the middle at 20'. The welder and compressor 220V are on the opposite wall from the breaker box.. I have another tip that I can pass on from Robert MacKenzie, I plan on a free floor lift and getting the arms under teh car is always a pain. Robert puts his car on a set of dollies first. makes the arm swing a breeze.<br clear="all"><div><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_signature" data-smartmail="gmail_signature"><div dir="ltr">Bob Kramer</div></div></div><br></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue, Dec 31, 2019 at 11:01 AM Bob Bownes -Seiri <<a href="mailto:bownes@seiri.com">bownes@seiri.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir="auto"><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div dir="ltr">It’s overkill, but I have an electrical reel and air hose reel over each bay. It comes in terribly handy. </div><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div dir="ltr">Don’t know about the planned lift, but mine is 220VAC, so don’t forget you may need that. </div><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div dir="ltr">On that note, I’ve been accumulating Real Machine Tools of late that all need 220 3phase. So 220 drops are going in around the shop for those and the welder. I find it easier to move the welder to the work than the work to the welder sometimes. </div><div dir="ltr"><br><blockquote type="cite">On Dec 31, 2019, at 11:54, Bob Kramer via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" target="_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr"><div dir="ltr">Those are great ideas. I used the RapidAir tubing system and I have an overhead run 20' in. Dropping a line down and mounting it on both posts of the lifts would be a simple upgrade.. I did think ahead and wired in an extra 30 amp circuit up top. I was planning on using a retractable electric hose reel but dropping an outlet to the posts might be a better plan. <div><br></div><div><div><div dir="ltr"><div dir="ltr">Bob Kramer</div></div></div><br></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue, Dec 31, 2019 at 8:52 AM Bill Tobin via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" target="_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
<p>Bob put the lift in the easiest accessible best lighted spot in
the shop. Also run air and power outlets to the lift; this
eliminates stringing hoses and cords across the floor. Put a
workbench close to the lift area; maybe on wheels. You can also
never have too much shelving. Or lighting especially as we age and
eyesight isn't quite what is used to be! And maybe have a small
room sectioned off for your lathe milling machine and maybe
surface grinder.</p>
<p>While you're at it maybe add another 10 or 20 feet to the
original specs!<br>
</p>
<p>Ask me how I learned all this stuff!</p>
<p>Happy New Year everyone.</p>
<p>Cheers Bill<br>
</p>
<div>On 12/31/2019 8:46 AM, Bob Kramer via
Fot wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">Is that a 50 x 30?
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I built a 30 X 40 and it took the better part of a year to
get it outfitted between other stuff. Shelving, electrical,
lighting, work benches and air lines. With a 12' front door on
a 30' front, I still can't decide where to put a lift.</div>
<div><br clear="all">
<div>
<div dir="ltr">
<div dir="ltr">Bob Kramer</div>
</div>
</div>
<br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Dec 30, 2019 at 12:04
PM John Styduhar via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" target="_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:small">I
recently picked up an early TR4 frame from a fellow WPTA
club member that is in decent shape and have all the
necessary bits to build a wide track for my TR3. This
will be my next project after outfitting my new
headquarters. </div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Dec 30, 2019 at
10:57 AM Mark J Bradakis via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" target="_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">This TR3 Beta got me
thinking. The TR4 was based on a modified TR3 <br>
frame. The TR4A frame was a totally new design, and
adaptable to either <br>
the IRS or solid axle rear suspension. The TR6 used
basically the same <br>
frame. Are there solid axle TR6s out there?<br>
<br>
mjb.<br>
<br>
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