<div dir="ltr">What Chris has failed to mention is that he holds the revs to 6000 and thus relieves a lot ofstrees on the entire engine.<br clear="all"><div><div dir="ltr" data-smartmail="gmail_signature"><p><strong><font color="#000099">Never be beaten by equipment.</font></strong></p></div></div><br></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div class="gmail_attr" dir="ltr">On Sun, Nov 24, 2019 at 1:03 PM Phil Gott via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" target="_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;padding-left:1ex;border-left-color:rgb(204,204,204);border-left-width:1px;border-left-style:solid"><div dir="auto">Interesting, Chris:<div>My machine shop said that .002” run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you’ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis.<br>Thanks for the input.<br><div dir="ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div><div dir="ltr"><br><blockquote type="cite">On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews <<a href="mailto:tony@tonydrews.com" target="_blank">tony@tonydrews.com</a>> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr">
  
    
  
  
    <p>Wow!  It's very nicely done.  Certainly overkill.</p>
    <p>Regards, Tony<br>
    </p>
    <div>On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite">
      
      Here are some photos:
      <div><div><image0.jpeg></div><br>
        <div><image1.jpeg></div><br>
        <div dir="ltr"> <div><image2.jpeg></div></div>
        <div dir="ltr"><br>
        </div>
        <div dir="ltr"><br>
        </div>
        <div dir="ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div>
        <div dir="ltr"><br>
          <blockquote type="cite">On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony
            Drews <a href="mailto:tony@tonydrews.com" target="_blank"><tony@tonydrews.com></a> wrote:<br>
            <br>
          </blockquote>
        </div>
        <blockquote type="cite">
          <div dir="ltr">
            
            <p>I agree, that sounds like overkill.  Mine only requires
              the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block
              mods.</p>
            <p>Regards, Tony<br>
            </p>
            <div>On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil
              Gott wrote:<br>
            </div>
            <blockquote type="cite">
              
              Thanks again, Tony:
              <div>The one we have, built by the late Bill  Throop, in
                addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block
                machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then
                the strap  is cross bolted from the sides, through the
                block from outside.  I’m wondering if this is a bit of
                overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be.</div>
              <div>Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are
                pulling the engine today for other work.</div>
              <div>Phil<br>
                <br>
                <div dir="ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div>
                <div dir="ltr"><br>
                  <blockquote type="cite">On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM,
                    Tony Drews <a href="mailto:tony@tonydrews.com" target="_blank"><tony@tonydrews.com></a>
                    wrote:<br>
                    <br>
                  </blockquote>
                </div>
                <blockquote type="cite">
                  <div dir="ltr">
                    
                    <p>I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. 
                      Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine
                      building tips page):</p>
                    <p><span style="text-align:left;color:rgb(0,0,0);text-transform:none;text-indent:0px;letter-spacing:normal;font-family:Tahoma,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:medium;font-style:normal;font-weight:400;word-spacing:0px;float:none;display:inline;white-space:normal;background-color:rgb(255,255,255)">"I also like to strap
                        the center main to add rigidity to the bottom
                        end.  To do this, mill off the cast face of the
                        main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts.
                        Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You
                        must enlarge the holes in the strap  and you
                        must use longer bolts.  Some  builders feel that
                        this is totally unnecessary, but since starting
                        to do this, I have never had a main bearing
                        deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is
                        something that happens more frequently than you
                        would expect."</span></p>
                    <div>Regards, Tony Drews<br>
                    </div>
                    <div><br>
                    </div>
                    <div>On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM,
                      Phil Gott via Fot wrote:<br>
                    </div>
                    <blockquote type="cite">
                      <pre>Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center.
Curious as to the need for the extra support.
Thanks,
Phil Gott
114 TR4A

Sent from my iPhone
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