<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto">Interesting, Chris:<div>My machine shop said that .002” run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you’ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis.<br>Thanks for the input.<br><div dir="ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div><div dir="ltr"><br><blockquote type="cite">On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr">
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<p>Wow! It's very nicely done. Certainly overkill.</p>
<p>Regards, Tony<br>
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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote:<br>
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Here are some photos:
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<div dir="ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div>
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<blockquote type="cite">On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony
Drews <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:tony@tonydrews.com"><tony@tonydrews.com></a> wrote:<br>
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<p>I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires
the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block
mods.</p>
<p>Regards, Tony<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil
Gott wrote:<br>
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Thanks again, Tony:
<div>The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in
addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block
machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then
the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the
block from outside. I’m wondering if this is a bit of
overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be.</div>
<div>Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are
pulling the engine today for other work.</div>
<div>Phil<br>
<br>
<div dir="ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div>
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<blockquote type="cite">On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM,
Tony Drews <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:tony@tonydrews.com" moz-do-not-send="true"><tony@tonydrews.com></a>
wrote:<br>
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<p>I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick.
Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine
building tips page):</p>
<p><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family:
Tahoma, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size:
medium; font-style: normal;
font-variant-ligatures: normal;
font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400;
letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align:
left; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none;
white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing:
0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px;
background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);
text-decoration-style: initial;
text-decoration-color: initial; display: inline
!important; float: none;">"I also like to strap
the center main to add rigidity to the bottom
end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the
main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts.
Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You
must enlarge the holes in the strap and you
must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that
this is totally unnecessary, but since starting
to do this, I have never had a main bearing
deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is
something that happens more frequently than you
would expect."</span></p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Regards, Tony Drews<br>
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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM,
Phil Gott via Fot wrote:<br>
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<pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center.
Curious as to the need for the extra support.
Thanks,
Phil Gott
114 TR4A
Sent from my iPhone
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