<div dir="ltr"><div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:small">I also followed Uncle Jack's advice. It seemed to calm the engine vibration at higher revs (6000+) in addition to the cast alloy sump. I'm running a stock crank nitrided. Use ARP main studs. </div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:small">. </div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sat, Nov 23, 2019 at 6:43 AM Phil Gott via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" target="_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir="auto">Thanks again, Tony:<div>The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I’m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be.</div><div>Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work.</div><div>Phil<br><br><div dir="ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div><div dir="ltr"><br><blockquote type="cite">On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews <<a href="mailto:tony@tonydrews.com" target="_blank">tony@tonydrews.com</a>> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr">
<p>I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he
wrote about that (on my engine building tips page):</p>
<p><span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Tahoma,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:medium;font-style:normal;font-variant-ligatures:normal;font-variant-caps:normal;font-weight:400;letter-spacing:normal;text-align:left;text-indent:0px;text-transform:none;white-space:normal;word-spacing:0px;background-color:rgb(255,255,255);text-decoration-style:initial;text-decoration-color:initial;float:none;display:inline">"I also like
to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To
do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the
surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400
block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use
longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally
unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a
main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is
something that happens more frequently than you would expect."</span></p>
<div>Regards, Tony Drews<br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via
Fot wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<pre>Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center.
Curious as to the need for the extra support.
Thanks,
Phil Gott
114 TR4A
Sent from my iPhone
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