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<p>A few years back we had the same issue with oil cooler bursting.
It happened 3 times just after a cold engine startup at the track.
We found that the fix was to make sure the oil cam up out of the
pump, into the filter, then past the oil pressure relief valve
before it went into the cooler. When the oil is cold and the
engine is first started, revving the engine even a little bit
before the oil has warmed up and thinned out a bit causes pressure
surges that pass through the oil line. this surge will exceed the
ability of the cooler radiator to hold it. after redesigning the
oi filter line adapter as stated above, all cooler radiator
failures just flat out stopped. This is on a TR-4 engine in
Morgan. We generally run 20-50 brad penn 1 oil. the pressure
relief valve it set to open at 70 psi with the oil temp about 180
degrees, this is at around 2000 rpm, just as called for in the
shop manual. <br>
</p>
<p> As far as the oil temp goes. I also have an aluminum
finned sump on both my race car and my street car. I also have an
oil temp gauge in each pan. The alloy pan is quite an effective
oil cooler. The oil temp can easily get up to 180 or 190 degrees
F on an 85 degree day in stop and go traffic. once traffic starts
to move at over 40 mph, within 2 miles or so the oil temp will
normally drop right down to 140. To get it to run at a higher
temp, I have built a leather cover that surrounds the pan on the
front, both sides, & the bottom to stop the air flow over the
oil pan fins and sides.. It is held to the engine by 6 extra long
bolts 3 down each side of the pan. .sometimes, we have had to
do this while running an engine on a dyno to get the oil hot
enough. <br>
</p>
<p>On one full race engine that we built, we could see signs of
contact between the main bearing shell and the crank journals with
main bearing clearances of .00175. Opening up those main
clearances by .001" to .00275 got rid of all signs of contact and
lowered the engine oil temp on the dyno 50 degrees F. With a well
prepared oil pump, there is plenty of oil delivery with that much
main bearing clearance. <br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/5/2018 6:53 PM, Bud Rolofson via
Fot wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:62D8FE03-2BFF-4A6C-B4D3-8D50CA49F95B@comcast.net">
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
List,
<div class=""><br class="">
<div class="">Thanks to all who responded about this. The
consensus was to go to the oil filter first to catch as much
debris as possible before it collects in the oil cooler.
Everyone said with an exploded engine (like I experienced)
replacing the oil cooler is a requirement.</div>
<div class=""><br class="">
</div>
<div class="">So I did replace the oil cooler after blowing up
the engine, but TWICE I’ve had them ($160 Earl’s oil coolers)
blow out and leak all over the engine bay when doing a test
and tune day at the track. I’m on my third oil cooler and
trying to reduce the oil pressure that on my gage says 85-90
psi to see if that is what is causing the coolers to leak,
although they are rated at 150 psi or more. I put an extra
copper washer on the oil pressure relief valve but I’m not
sure what is really causing two oil coolers to blow out. Bad
luck? Coincidence? Bad parts? I’m getting tired of
oiling/cleaning my engine bay. I’ll find out if my washers
help on the next track day cause it has happened after 4-5
laps the last two times when I was breaking in new rings.
Unfortunately the next track day could be a couple more
months.</div>
<div class=""><br class="">
</div>
<div class="">So the next question I have is how to know which
way the flow is out of the adapter on the engine. See pic
below and please tell me if the oil is coming OUT of engine
from the right or left fitting in the picture. There are
absolutely no markings or clues to tell me.</div>
<div class=""><br class="">
</div>
<div class="">Also do most of you measure oil temp on the oil
coming out or going into the engine?</div>
<div class=""><br class="">
</div>
<div class="">Thanks</div>
<div class="">Bud</div>
<div class=""><br class="">
<div>
<blockquote type="cite" class="">
<div class="">On Dec 3, 2018, at 8:39 AM, Kas Kastner <<a
href="mailto:kaskastner@gmail.com" class=""
moz-do-not-send="true">kaskastner@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:</div>
<br class="Apple-interchange-newline">
<div class="">
<div dir="ltr" class="">Go to the filter first so any
junk in the oil does not contaminat the cooler which
is almost impossible to lean completly. If you ever
have any engine serious problem and the oil goes to
the cooler first you can count on having to replace it
also.<br class="" clear="all">
<div class="">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_signature"
data-smartmail="gmail_signature">
<p class=""><strong class=""><font class=""
color="#000099">Never be beaten by
equipment.</font></strong></p>
</div>
</div>
<br class="">
</div>
<br class="">
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="">On Sun, Dec 2, 2018 at 11:38
PM Bud Rolofson via Fot <<a
href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" class=""
moz-do-not-send="true">fot@autox.team.net</a>>
wrote:<br class="">
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
.8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Listerati,<br
class="">
<br class="">
For those of you running a remote oil cooler and
remote oil filter do you run the hose coming OUT of
the engine into the cooler first or the filter
first? Just wanted to see how and why (if there’s a
reason) most run their lines.<br class="">
<br class="">
Thanks<br class="">
Bud<br class="">
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