<html><body><div style="font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; color: #000000"><div><br></div><div>Sometimes, I find that it is not possible to get the backlash and mesh pattern right at the same time (on a diff that has not been welded). I go for the correct mesh pattern then, with a backlash that is greater than recommended. Is that only a sign of wear ? </div><div>Marcel</div><hr id="zwchr" data-marker="__DIVIDER__"><div data-marker="__HEADERS__"><b>Van: </b>"fot" <fot@autox.team.net><br><b>Aan: </b>"Bob Kramer" <rkramer56@gmail.com>, mdporter@dfn.com, "fot" <fot@autox.team.net><br><b>Verzonden: </b>Woensdag 12 september 2018 19:22:39<br><b>Onderwerp: </b>Re: [Fot] Fwd: Crown and pinion gear break in<br></div><br><div data-marker="__QUOTED_TEXT__"><span color="black" size="2" face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" data-mce-style="color: black; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;" style="color: black; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">
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<div> <span size="2" data-mce-style="font-size: small;" style="font-size: small;">The pattern is everything when setting gears up, if they don't mesh properly, they're gonna run hot, make noise, and fail.</span></div>
<div><span size="2" data-mce-style="font-size: small;" style="font-size: small;">There are plenty of photos and illustrations of different patterns on the internet.</span></div>
<div><span size="2" data-mce-style="font-size: small;" style="font-size: small;">I mix a little injuneers blue in with lubriplate white grease, paint a half dozen teeth or so, and wrench the ring back and forth a few times, while holding the pinion flange for extra preload; repeat 3 or 4 times around the ring.<br>
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<div><span size="2" data-mce-style="font-size: small;" style="font-size: small;">I use set-up bearings but it's not unusual to have to make fine adjustments once the good bearings are fitted.</span></div>
<div><span size="2" data-mce-style="font-size: small;" style="font-size: small;">Preload is equally important, I don't use the pinion crush collar either, I fab a solid collar and fit shims; a case spreader is easier to set the carrier in but I've done many without.</span></div>
<div><span size="2" data-mce-style="font-size: small;" style="font-size: small;">Once you have everything set, you can put a box-end wrench on one of the ring gear bolts and work it back and forth hard and you can feel when the mesh is nice and smooth in both directions.</span></div>
<div><span size="2" data-mce-style="font-size: small;" style="font-size: small;">A couple things to watch for, sometimes the carrier will have runout from warpage when it was welded, you'll never get a correct backlash setting or a good pattern all the way around, and I often find the carrier bearing inner races turning on the journal, if not too worn a little loctite is your friend but if that race turns on the carrier it won't live long...</span></div>
<div><span size="2" data-mce-style="font-size: small;" style="font-size: small;">Glen<br>
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<div style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Bob Kramer via Fot <fot@autox.team.net><br>
To: Michael Porter <mdporter@dfn.com><br>
Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph <fot@autox.team.net><br>
Sent: Wed, Sep 12, 2018 8:57 am<br>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Fwd: Crown and pinion gear break in<br>
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<div dir="ltr">I would add that if you buy the same brand bearing you can grind out the ID of the old races to make it easier to remove them for test assemblies.</div>
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<div dir="ltr">Bob Kramer</div>
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<div class="aolmail_gmail_quote">On Tue, Sep 11, 2018 at 2:08 PM, Michael Porter <span dir="ltr"><<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="mailto:mdporter@dfn.com">mdporter@dfn.com</a>></span> wrote:<br>
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<div class="aolmail_m_4645890251388782201moz-cite-prefix">On 9/10/2018 3:41 PM, Bob Kramer via
Fot wrote:<br>
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<div dir="ltr">I can't answer that but one could measure the
dimension of the pinion head and subtract it from the total
shown to get the depth you would want. </div>
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<div dir="ltr">Bob Kramer</div>
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I suspect that there are variations in parts due to manufacturing
errors, tolerances stacking up, etc. Most of the parts made at the
time were not subject to the sort of scrutiny and
computer-controlled measurements that are common today (although
even that isn't a guarantee of uniformity--I had to redo a bunch of
Toyota Supra IRS diffs in the early `80s because the computer that
assembled them was misprogrammed and it swapped the shim stacks for
the carrier bearings left to right).<br>
<br>
That said, the safest way to get the diff repaired properly is
attention to the shims when disassembling, and then putting the
shims back in the same thicknesses and checking for the proper
engagement pattern. It does require some educated guesswork, and,
often, disassembling and assembling a couple of times, but, if the
pattern is right, the diff will be reliable. I'd also recommend
using hard shims in place of crush spacers on the pinion whenever
possible if the pinion originally used those. It also is a bit
easier if one uses the case spreader judiciously on those housings
requiring same, and doesn't crank it up too much. Spread the case
just enough to get the carrier and bearings out. Figuring out the
shim packs will be easier.<br>
<br>
<br>
Cheers. <br>
<span class="aolmail_HOEnZb"><span color="#888888" data-mce-style="color: #888888;" style="color: #888888;">
<pre class="aolmail_m_4645890251388782201moz-signature">--
Michael Porter
Roswell, NM
Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....</pre>
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