<div dir="ltr"><div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:small">I don't see any bluing on the ring gear teeth and Greg didn't mention stinky oil smell. Assuming the setup was correct, I'd like to know where Greg got the parts. We all have experience with the quality of aftermarket TR parts. Also what limited slip he was running or a welded diff. Something may have come loose inside and jammed in the gear mesh. You may find your answer somewhere in the shrapnel. </div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr">On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 6:29 AM Bill via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">I doubt if a break-in procedure could have prevented failure, but as Marcel says, checking the temperature of the diff could have stopped the damage. The likely culprits are incorrect engagement or bad parts, but anything that heats the gears enough to cook the oil off the parts will kill the gears. I had a close call with one of the gear sets I use. Apparently I screwed up somewhere in checking fit—when I pulled the rear end to assess the problem there was no backlash. I have a huge finned differential cover so checking temperature doesn’t help, but I could feel the car slowing quickly between shifts. Fortunately I wasn’t doing my usual clutchless shifts and noticed the sudden deceleration every time I disengaged the clutch. The gear teeth were slightly blued and the oil smelled like a cesspool, but the gears were still usable once I did the setup properly. <br>
<br>
Bill<br>
<br>
> On Sep 5, 2018, at 1:48 AM, van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" target="_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> ----- Doorgestuurd bericht -----<br>
> Van: "van mulders marcel" <<a href="mailto:van.mulders.marcel@telenet.be" target="_blank">van.mulders.marcel@telenet.be</a>><br>
> Aan: "Greg Blake" <<a href="mailto:gblake58tr3@icloud.com" target="_blank">gblake58tr3@icloud.com</a>><br>
> Verzonden: Woensdag 5 september 2018 10:47:59<br>
> Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Crown and pinion gear break in<br>
> <br>
> I think it is good measure to check the heat of the differential casing after a few laps when the pinion and crownwheel are freshly mounted : when the casing gets very hot, something is wrong : or the parts are bad or they are mounted not correctly<br>
> There are at least 2 manufactures of the TR parts, I forgot about the names. As far as I know, used original parts are running cooler than some of the aftermarked parts. How was the noise of the diff? Did you notice the smell during the first laps?<br>
> Marcel<br>
> <br>
> ----- Oorspronkelijk bericht -----<br>
> Van: "fot" <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" target="_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>><br>
> Aan: "fot" <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" target="_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>><br>
> Verzonden: Woensdag 5 september 2018 03:25:39<br>
> Onderwerp: [Fot] Crown and pinion gear break in<br>
> <br>
> I would love to here the FOT experience in breaking in new differential gears. What has worked well for you in the past? <br>
> <br>
> Last weekend, I was running the TR3 at Hallett with a brand new 4.55 gear set and it failed. I probably got 30 laps total in 4 sessions on track. I did not think to follow any set break in procedure with the gears and I am wondering if that is why they failed. <br>
> <br>
> I am interested in the lists experience with brand new or new old stock ring and pinion break in. <br>
> <br>
> Here is a pic of the failed set. <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> [image/jpeg:image1.jpeg]<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> Sent from my iPhone<br>
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