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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=purple><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>Greg,<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>Just a couple more thoughts to add to the good suggestions already offered. I especially liked Jack’s idea of hand-lapping in the aluminum seats with a ball welded to a rod. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>I’m guessing that most of the air you’re hearing is leaking around the outside of the operating valve since air is much more likely to do so than the relatively thick 90 weight oil. Just the fact that only 120 psi of air pressure is enough to move the operating pistons tells me that the rest of your system is relatively tight. The normal operating pressure after all is about 400 psig so you have a lot of “fat” built into it. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>One thing that might cause the operating pistons to move with a relatively small pressure is having weak or incorrect springs pushing the cone clutch rearward. Be sure you have the so-called “long” and “short” ones in the right locations, It’s actually the coil bound length that determines which is which. If you put a long one where a short one will be, it may bind before reaching full movement, resulting in the cone clutch not reaching the brake ring. Don’t ask me how I know this. To check this, I put each spring on a threaded rod and run a nut down the rod until the coil binds. Measure the length at that point and the long springs will be about 3/8” longer than the short ones.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>Also, the seating of the balls on the aluminum seats in the casing is indeed important but it’s also important to have a good seat between the ball and tip of the operating valve. I had a D-type OD that was eating my lunch with low operating pressure during engagement and the tip of the valve was nicked resulting in a bad seal. Changing the valve solved the problem. The oil flow is very small in the system so a leak of even the smallest area will drop the pressure quite a bit.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>Lastly, you mentioned the “relief valve” and I’m not sure which valve you are referring to since the pressure relief occurs when the accumulator piston moves enough to uncover the relief holes back to the sump. Since you only had 120 psi, the accumulator piston would not have moved nearly enough to “relieve.” I’m guessing you were referring to the operating valve.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>Mike Hado<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div><div style='border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=MsoNormal><b><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span></b><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] <b>On Behalf Of </b>barry rosenberg via Fot<br><b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, March 6, 2018 5:31 AM<br><b>To:</b> Jack Wheeler; Greg Blake via Fot<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='background:white'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:black'>I used to put the ball in a tap in down with a blunt punch. As the case is aluminum and the ball hard steel, it made a very nice seat for itself. This can be done without pulling the OD apart. Just pull the plug, spring and little plunger.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='background:white'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:black'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1520335633478_5731"><p class=MsoNormal style='background:white'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:black'>Barry<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='margin-bottom:12.0pt;background:white'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:black'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><div><div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='background:white'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>On Monday, March 5, 2018 5:26 PM, Jack Wheeler via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:</span><span style='font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p></div><p class=MsoNormal style='margin-bottom:12.0pt;background:white'><span style='font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:black'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div><div id=yiv8470877085><div><div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='background:white'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:black'>Hi Greg. Here is a tip for you. When I used to rebuild A-Type overdrives, I would "lap in" the surface that the ball sits on. I had a spare ball of the correct size, and I welded a small rod to it (about 3/16" diam.). Then I put a bit of valve grinding compound on the ball, inserted it down into the hole, then turned it back and forth, thus lapping the surface that the ball sits on. This is a tip that Hardy Prentice gave me years ago, when we were both racing, and obviously the purpose was to minimize any leakage past the ball. This may be to late in your case, as you would have to do this while the unit is apart, so that you can carefully clean all of the grinding compoound out of the housing after the lapping. Maybe this will help you next time. Good luck.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='background:white'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:black'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='background:white'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:black'>Jack Wheeler<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='background:white'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:black'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='background:white'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:black'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div id="yiv8470877085ydp70470255yahoo_quoted_0759735189"><div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='background:white'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:#26282A'>On Monday, March 5, 2018, 12:12:29 AM EST, Greg Blake via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote: <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='background:white'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:#26282A'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='background:white'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:#26282A'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='background:white'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:#26282A'>All knowing FOT<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='background:white'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:#26282A'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='background:white'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:#26282A'>Attached is a video of my Type A OD unit ready to bolt up to the transmission. I decided to do a pressure test with 120psi of compressed air plumbed into the operating vale port. <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='background:white'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:#26282A'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='background:white'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:#26282A'>The engagement seems to work well when I move the operating lever. But I am concerned about the amount of air that can be heard leaking. I believe it is going past the relief valve. Is this abnormal amount of leaking?<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='background:white'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:#26282A'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='background:white'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:#26282A'>I noticed upon tear down that the nonreturn valve had a 1/4" ball instead of the 5/16" this unit should have had. The test you see in the video is with a new 5/16" ball. I am sure on a previous rebuild someone mistakenly used the later style 1/4". <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><p class=MsoNormal style='margin-bottom:12.0pt;background:white'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:#26282A'><br><br>Just wanted opinions before I buttoned this up to the transmission for some bench testing. <br><br>Thanks. <br><br>Greg<br><br>Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________<br><a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" target="_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a><br><br><a href="http://www.fot-racing.com/" target="_blank">http://www.fot-racing.com</a><br><br>Donate: <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/archive" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>Forums: <a href="http://www.team.net/forums" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jwheeler1947@yahoo.com" target="_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jwheeler1947@yahoo.com</a><br><br><o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div></div></div></div></div><p class=MsoNormal style='margin-bottom:12.0pt;background:white'><span style='font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:black'>_______________________________________________<br><a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net">fot@autox.team.net</a><br><br><a href="http://www.fot-racingcom/" target="_blank">http://www.fot-racing.com</a><br><br>Donate: <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/archive" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>Forums: <a href="http://www.team.net/forums" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/britcars@bellsouth.net" target="_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/britcars@bellsouth.net</a><br><br><br><br><o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div></div></div></div></div></body></html>