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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">IMHO</span>
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<div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Having Re & Re’d GT6 powertrain numerous times I’d say just pull it right out. To lift the engine a few inches to try and work on the pan you’ll have to have done 90% of the initial work required
to just pull it right out anyway. It will be very awkward to properly clean the mating surfaces without lifting the unit out and up where you can easily see and get at things. You can also better inspect the rest of the bottom end etc. And deal with anything
that is suspect. Make sure it’s real clean and you use the best gasket material available and it shouldn’t leak. Like Scott said check that front block. </span></div>
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<div>I’m sure my engine is milder though, not much better than stock, balanced with a mild compression boost but I regularly rev it beyond 6000 RPM. I have no blow by issues as yet. </div>
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Best of luck.
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<div id="AppleMailSignature">Vince</div>
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On Jan 21, 2018, at 12:25 PM, kkjjk--- via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br>
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<div><font color="black" size="2" face="arial">He<font size="2">llo again, Brian. To add to my response to you earlier, Scott is right about the bellhousing clearance. I have to check my notes, but I believe that when I lifted the engine, the tranny was out
of the car, so I would not have had the clearance problem. Perhaps if you did not want to get that far into the project, you could drop the pan enough to cut the gasket out and put a new one in and use some silicone gasket cement or similar to seal where
you cut the new gasket. Not the best solution, but with that and venting as Scott mentions, it may be an easy fix to take care of the problem.<br>
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<div style="font-family:helvetica,arial;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Scott Janzen via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net">fot@autox.team.net</a>><br>
To: Brian Schirano <<a href="mailto:bschirano@yahoo.com">bschirano@yahoo.com</a>><br>
Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net">fot@autox.team.net</a>><br>
Sent: Sun, Jan 21, 2018 12:09 pm<br>
Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6'rs<br>
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I’ve never done it. Certainly not without lifting the engine somewhat, and by the time you undo the water hoses, engine mounts, etc, you are halfway to pulling it. If you try, you might want to look at how much of a gap there is between the top of the bellhousing
and the firewall, as this could inhibit the lift.
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<div>Venting - I ended up with a 1” and a 1/2” hose on the valve cover and this cured most of the blow-by issues at the rear seal, etc. The 1/2” hose was not enough, so now there are two. Also tried a vent off the fuel pump mounting before the valve cover
vents, but the pump cam slung so much oil in this direction that it didn’t work.</div>
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<div>If you are getting oil leaks at the front, that fun sealing block may be the issue.</div>
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<div>On Jan 21, 2018, at 8:55 AM, Brian Schirano via Fot <<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:</div>
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<div>OK GT6 guys...</div>
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<div>Question... is it possible to pull the pan and change my gasket without pulling the engine? Looks pretty tight and I expect the oil pump pick up snorkel will be the problem.</div>
<div>Is a partial lift possible to do this?</div>
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<div>It <i>looks</i> like it's pushing oil out of the pan, it's definitely not the timing chain cover (that's what I thought last year and changed that). <br>
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<div>2nd question, if it's pushing oil out the front of the pan (or anywhere from pan I suppose), I'm thinking I need more crankcase vent? and maybe get around this problem short term that way?</div>
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<div>Let me know, making garage work plans/list of things to do, for when winter breaks early March</div>
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<div>Thanks</div>
<div>Brian</div>
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<div>26A GT6+, 28 TR6</div>
Brian Schirano<br>
585-305-0349 Cell <br>
<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="mailto:BSchirano@yahoo.com">BSchirano@yahoo.com</a></div>
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