<div dir="ltr"><div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:small">I use .010" diameter dead soft copper wire between the top of the piston liner and Mordy's .032" annealed solid copper head gasket. I use the bottom step of the liner to fashion the wire in a circle with a slight overlap and use contact cement to hold in place on top of the liner until the head gasket is installed. The gasket has been sprayed several times with copper coat. Positioning of the wire is critical. </div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Tue, Oct 24, 2017 at 3:26 PM, <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:van.mulders.marcel@telenet.be" target="_blank">van.mulders.marcel@telenet.be</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div><div style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;color:#000000"><div><br></div><div>..."copper fire ring is a must" : John, do you mean on the steel shim gasket, or also on the solid copper gasket? I wonder if a fire ring on the solid copper gasket is necessary when the sleeves are protruding above the block?</div><div>Marcel.</div><hr id="m_2572048803181646887zwchr"><div><b>Van: </b>"fot" <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" target="_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>><br><b>Aan: </b>"Mordy Dunst" <<a href="mailto:gasket.works@verizon.net" target="_blank">gasket.works@verizon.net</a>><br><b>Cc: </b>"fot" <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" target="_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>><br><b>Verzonden: </b>Dinsdag 24 oktober 2017 15:21:35<br><b>Onderwerp: </b>Re: [Fot] [TR] TR4A head gasket, 87 mm cylinders<br></div><br><div><div><div class="h5"><div dir="ltr"><div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:small">When I order my solid copper head gasket from Mordy, I ask that the scallop be made on the intake valve only. There's no reason to scallop around the exhaust valve and reduce the sealing surface. There's always an amount of fine tuning of the head gasket to match the scallop on the head and liners based on your milling. Never used a steel shim gasket- too thin. Copper fire ring is a must.</div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:small"><br></div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Sat, Oct 21, 2017 at 10:51 AM, Mordy Dunst via Fot <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" target="_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">The .032” copper headgaskets I supply to moss motors are pre- scalloped for valve relief on head. Hondabond or yammabond ( pain in the butt) seals.<br>
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Mordy<br>
<br>
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MDunst Headgasket.com <a href="tel:626.358.1616" target="_blank">626.358.1616</a><br>
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On Friday, October 20, 2017, Joe Boruch via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" target="_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br>
<br>
This has been an issue for years, and it has delayed me putting my TR3 engine back together. I have used a steel shim gasket for years with success, but it takes me 5 or so hours to put the gasket together, after grinding to properly fit the bores and then fitting the copper wire in the fire rings, then coating it with copper coat or Yamabond.<br>
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It would be great to have a Cometic MLS gasket to just install and be done. I spoke to Cometic about this some years ago and they wanted me to buy a large quantity (50 or 100, I forget) to justify the development costs. I spoke with a couple of our TR part sellers, but since they had invested in tooling for steel shim gaskets (or others), they were not interested in pursuing this for their businesses. The current Cometic gaskets do not account for the unshrouded intake valve.<br>
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On a semi-related note, has anyone considered or tried having cylinder sleeves pressed into a block to eliminate the "wet" sleeves with the figure 8 gaskets at the bottom of the sleeve? I am now racing a Honda S2000 and with my recent engine build I had Darton steel sleeves pressed in to eliminate the damaged aluminum bores (also 87mm bore). There are Darton wet sleeves that completely eliminate the aluminum bores and dry sleeves that are pressed into bored out aluminum bores. I was thinking that the Darton wet sleeves could maybe work in the TR3/4 block. If sleeves are pressed in, the tops can be decked level with the block and eliminate the need to have the sleeves protrude above the block deck. Joe(B)<br>
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---------- Original Message ----------<br>
From: patrickmannion1 via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" target="_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>><br>
To: Jerry Van Vlack <<a href="mailto:jerryvv@roadrunner.com" target="_blank">jerryvv@roadrunner.com</a>>, <a href="mailto:asg123@centurylink.net" target="_blank">asg123@centurylink.net</a>, <a href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net" target="_blank">triumphs@autox.team.net</a><br>
Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" target="_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [Fot] [TR] TR4A head gasket, 87 mm cylinders<br>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 18:18:13 -0700<br>
<br>
Hi Jerry, I'm about to use Moss Motors supplied 89mm liners. For years we've used standard liners, milled the head for 10:1 and higher street use. Carefully removing the lip on the head around the intake valve and notching and indexing each liner to match material removed from the cylinder head shrouding. Using 89mm liners (bigger bore) you will remove less material from the head to raise compression. If liner projection is correct we've used the steel shim head gasket BPNW have the correct gasket, be conservative in removing material. The heagasket also needs to be trimmed to compensate for material removed from the liner/intake port shroudind on the head. In modifying the head gasket you do not want it to "hang into" the combustion chamber or you will get detionation and gasket damage. Finally carefully use contact cement and glue a single strand of .012" Copper wire into the groove that is around the circumference of each cylinder of the gasket. I think I have pictures or can take some this weekend. We've done this for many years on lots of TR and Morgan race engines and have had great success and no failures.<br>
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t<br>
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