<font color='black' size='2' face='Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif'><font size="4" color="blue" face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif">"those type of inserts are usually short"</font><br>
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Y<font size="2">ou can get different length inserts.<br>
If there's enough good material left, I don't know of a better repair than a solid wall insert.<br>
Sadly in Mikes case it didn't work...<br>
Glen<br>
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<div style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Bob Totten via Fot <fot@autox.team.net><br>
To: fot <fot@autox.team.net><br>
Sent: Mon, Jul 3, 2017 4:46 pm<br>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Crack in block fixable?<br>
<br>
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<div class="aolReplacedBody"><font size="4" color="blue" face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif">Sorry to hear Mike,
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<div>I'm not sure I would of done the repair as you did as those type of inserts are usually short. Thus it would still be in the weak part of the threads. You should get a copy of the Factory Competition Preparation Manual and read up on the block prep sections in particular the details for all the threaded holes in the block. ie those for the head studs and the main bearing cap bolts.</div>
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<div>Better luck next block,</div>
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<div>Bob T</div>
<div>'63 Spit4 stock</div>
<div>'64 SpitGT autocrosser<img id="aolmail_TIE.9880670" alt="0326171132.jpg" class="aolmail_AOLInlineImage" title="0326171132.jpg" style="font-size: 14pt; margin: 5px; vertical-align: middle;" src="cid:AOLP.9880670" width="275">
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<div style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Mike Harmuth via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net">fot@autox.team.net</a>><br>
To: FoTTriumph <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net">fot@autox.team.net</a>><br>
Sent: Mon, Jul 3, 2017 11:35 am<br>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Crack in block fixable?<br>
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<div>The repair didn't hold, I felt it start to go as I was torquing it down, failed 1st pass at under 45 Lbs. Must have been (is now) a defect in the casting. At least it failed at home and 0 RPM and only cost me a block.<br>
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]<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8/harmug/Cracked%20Block/P1019601_zpsbdd7ixwd.jpg">http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8/harmug/Cracked%20Block/P1019601_zpsbdd7ixwd.jpg</a><br>
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The Air Show took my mind off it for a few hours. The hardware and the pilots are amazing. I thought race car drivers had a set of brass ones, these guys and gals are in a different league.<br>
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slideshow - <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="http://s32.photobucket.com/user/harmug/slideshow/2017%20Air%20Show">http://s32.photobucket.com/user/harmug/slideshow/2017%20Air%20Show</a><br>
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mike h<br>
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<div class="aolmail_aolmail_gmail_quote">On Fri, Jun 30, 2017 at 5:46 PM, Mike Harmuth <span dir="ltr"><<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="mailto:ofracer@gmail.com">ofracer@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br>
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<div>I was changing the head on my race 1296 engine and I noticed
this crack (pictures attached) between a stud hole and the water jacket
between cylinders # 2-3. I ran the engine hard last weekend at Thompson
without any issues, I was changing the head because the "new" one is
ported better and has larger valves.<br>
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Can this be fixed? I appears to only go down to the start of the threads but without some dye in it, I can't be sure.<br>
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Hoping to be at the Glen next weekend for the July Sprints but the spare engine isn't ready. Any suggestions?<br>
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Link to pictures<br>
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<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="http://s32.photobucket.com/user/harmug/slideshow/Cracked%20Block?sort=9">http://s32.photobucket.com/<wbr>user/harmug/slideshow/Cracked%<wbr>20Block?sort=9</a><br>
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thanks<br>
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mike h<br>
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63 Spit<br>
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