<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div>I was there, too. (Didn't see you, Mike!)</div><div id="AppleMailSignature">Phenomenal air show!<br><br>Rick McCurdy<div>Newburgh, NY</div></div><div><br>On Jul 2, 2017, at 8:18 AM, fubog1 via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div><font color="black" size="2" face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif">N<font size="2">ice repair!<br>
A Blue Angels airshow trumps all, enjoy!<br>
Glen<br>
(a Blue Angels fan since they were flying the F-4)<br>
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<div style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Mike Harmuth via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net">fot@autox.team.net</a>><br>
To: FoTTriumph <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net">fot@autox.team.net</a>><br>
Sent: Sun, Jul 2, 2017 4:45 am<br>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Crack in block fixable?<br>
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<div>I went with the time sert insert method. Finished buttoning up the engine a little while ago and now I have oil leaking out under the head gasket when I filled it up. Going to take the head off again tomorrow afternoon, after I go to an air show, the Blue Angels are near by on Sunday. <br>
Thanks for all the input, I'm sure this will be fixable too, then off to the Glen next Friday.<br>
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"fixed" block<br>
<div><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8/harmug/Cracked%20Block/P1019306_zpsdtf3x5cu.jpg">http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8/harmug/Cracked%20Block/P1019306_zpsdtf3x5cu.jpg</a><br>
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<div>mike h<br>
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<div class="aolmail_gmail_quote">On Sat, Jul 1, 2017 at 4:24 PM, fubog1 <span dir="ltr"><<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="mailto:fubog1@aol.com">fubog1@aol.com</a>></span> wrote:<br>
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<font size="2" color="black" face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif">I<font size="2"> would consider repairing that with a "time-sert" solid wall insert, vs heli-coil.<br>
That would restore the thread but the flange on top of the insert sits slightly below the deck. If the crack is open it will likely still allow a little water to get around the stud, right at the top of the hole.<br>
I don't know if there's enough meat there but a couple vertical 1/8 pins down into the crack, one on either side of the hole, would fix that issue, or some careful peining and a bottle of Bars leak...<br>
HTH<br>
Glen<br>
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<div style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black"><span>-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Mike Harmuth via Fot <<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net">fot@autox.team.net</a>><br>
To: FoTTriumph <<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net">fot@autox.team.net</a>><br>
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Sent: Sat, Jul 1, 2017 2:45 am<br>
Subject: [Fot] Crack in block fixable?<br>
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<div>I was changing the head on my race 1296 engine and I noticed
this crack (pictures attached) between a stud hole and the water jacket
between cylinders # 2-3. I ran the engine hard last weekend at Thompson
without any issues, I was changing the head because the "new" one is
ported better and has larger valves.<br>
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Can this be fixed? I appears to only go down to the start of the threads but without some dye in it, I can't be sure.<br>
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Hoping to be at the Glen next weekend for the July Sprints but the spare engine isn't ready. Any suggestions?<br>
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Link to pictures<br>
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<a rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" href="http://s32.photobucket.com/user/harmug/slideshow/Cracked%20Block?sort=9">http://s32.photobucket.com/<wbr>user/harmug/slideshow/Cracked%<wbr>20Block?sort=9</a><br>
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thanks<br>
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mike h<br>
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63 Spit<br>
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