<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div>If "it worked fine for several years" then why all of a sudden does it need different size master cylinders to make it work now? </div><div id="AppleMailSignature">It may need new master cylinders because one or both are bad or it may have air in the system but you should pull the brake pedal and inspect the balance bar if it wasn't done when the service was done. <br><br>Sent from my iPhone</div><div><br>On May 27, 2017, at 11:32 PM, McKearn McKearn via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div><div dir="ltr">Thanks for the replies.<div> O.K. assuming a master cylinder is the wrong size. Which way to go? I already have two 5/8 diameter cylinders. As far as I know you can't go smaller so I'll need to have one larger. As it is I like a slightly softer pedal and the front seams to have plenty of travel and a good feel. So if I want more travel for the back I would need a smaller cylinder right??? By the way it was me who didn't bother to calculate the proper cylinder size but I did get some advice from one or more expert Triumph racers...</div><div> P.J.</div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Sat, May 27, 2017 at 1:05 PM, John Hasty via Fot <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" target="_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
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<div>We use a 1" Willwood dual MC with apportion valve for rear. Works great.<br>
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Sent from my iPhone</div>
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On May 27, 2017, at 1:43 PM, "Duncan Charlton via Fot" <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" target="_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br>
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<div>On a related note, the Morgan Plus 4 I used to race seemed to have too much braking force in the rear. There was a hydraulic brake balance lever but that had already been adjusted all the way toward greater front brake bias when I bought the car. I replaced
the rear wheel cylinders with 3/4” bore TR6 items (perfect fit to replace the 7/8” Morgan items). Unfortunately it didn’t cure that particular problem, but it does show another way to tune the force of your rear brakes.
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Elgin, Texas 78621</div>
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<div>On May 27, 2017, at 7:46 AM, Paul Ricco via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" target="_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:</div>
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<div>PJ,<br>
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Yes on a suggestion. We have set up several of these over the years. Assuming that everything else in the brake system is plumbed and working correctly, what you have going on with the balance bar is an indication that you do not have the right size master
cylinder bores for the car. One of the many advantages of the system that your car has, includes being able to select the right size master cylinders for the weight distribution of the car, differences between the front/rear wheel cylinders and the type of
brake feel that you want. Furthermore, the front and rear masters do not have to be the same size (They seldom should be). The balance bar is meant to be for FINE adjustments. It sounds to me like it is being used for a much bigger imbalance in the system.
That will not work well.<br>
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If it is a Tilton pedal assembly, they have a worksheet on their website. You can fill it out and submit it to their engineering department via email. In about 3 days, you will get an email back with their recommendation for master cylinders. They will want
to know what type of pedal feel that you want. They do not charge for this service. The larger the bores, the more pedal pressure you will have.<br>
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Pegasus Auto Racing Supply keeps all of the master cylinders in stock and they are very easy to change (provided the pedal assembly is installed correctly). It is really a very easy problem to address. I would guess that when the assembly was installed, that
someone skipped the step of finding out what size masters are correct for the car.<br>
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Good Luck,<br>
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Paul Ricco<br>
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<blockquote type="cite">On May 26, 2017, at 10:28 PM, McKearn McKearn via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" target="_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br>
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Hi all.<br>
Trying to get the GT6 back on the road after a long winter in retirement. This car has a racecar style braking system with dual master cylinders and a balance bar for tuning. Last fall I nearly crashed when exiting an off ramp and had NO brakes...<br>
After renewing rotors and pads and bleeding the brakes I have discovered that the balance bar is sticking and flipping back and forth . Actually up and down would be more accurate. It seams that the rear brakes require less travel of the master cylinder so
the front master cylinder moves much more. This is causing the balance bar to achieve quite alot of angularity. As it moves in and out it sometimes flips up or down and sometimes it actually sticks and refuses to push the left (front) master cylinder in. This
seams strange to me as this has worked fine for several years.Any suggestions??<br>
Thanks. P.J.<br>
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