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Me too. The one with the plastic red key has funky wiring for
ignition and has been a source of failure for a number of folks.
The Longacre one has straightforward wiring and seems more
reliable.<br><br>
Regards, Tony<br><br>
At 12:36 PM 5/21/2017, Steven Belfer via Fot wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">I use this one in my TR3:
<a href="https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/document.asp?DocID=TECH00117">
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/document.asp?DocID=TECH00117</a><br><br>
<br>
~Steve<br><br>
<br><br>
<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">On May 21, 2017, at 7:02 AM, Bob
Totten via Fot
<<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net">fot@autox.team.net</a>>
wrote:<br><br>
<font size=4 color="#0000FF">Thank you All who chimed in. <br><br>
I did have the Battery Cable split to the Kill Switch. The Diode
and Power Tap were connected per the Flaming River Instructions.
What I had failed to do was split the power wire from the Ignition
Switch, duoh. So thanks who all responded to my inquiry I have one
wiring hurdle accomplished. Onward to solving the fried Oil
Pressure Indicator Wire and re-install the Rev Limiter. Looks like
I will miss the first planned autocross event of the season. Sorry
Kas, just want to avoid any Electrical Equipment failures this
season. Fried wire has me puzzled.<br><br>
Cheers all,<br><br>
Bob T<br>
'64 Spit GT autocrosser<br>
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