<html><body><div style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #000000"><div aria-label="Compose body">Hi Jack,</div><div aria-label="Compose body">RevingtonTR sells an adjustable inner fulcrum pin. I have one on my TR3 and I know of a few others that use it as well. No cutting and or welding is needed. </div><div aria-label="Compose body">It has been suggested that keeping the upper arms long is beneficial.</div><div aria-label="Compose body"><br></div><div aria-label="Compose body">// Dave H.</div><div><br></div><hr id="zwchr"><div style="color:#000;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;text-decoration:none;font-family:Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;" data-mce-style="color: #000; font-weight: normal; font-style: normal; text-decoration: none; font-family: Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><b>From: </b>"Jack Brooks" <JIBrooks@Live.com><br><b>To: </b>fot@autox.team.net<br><b>Sent: </b>Friday, May 20, 2016 10:34:14 PM<br><b>Subject: </b>[Fot] TR3 front end conversion to TR6 parts: Camber - moving the ball joint inward<br><div><br></div><style><!--
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--></style><div class="WordSection1"><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif" data-mce-style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-family: 'Times New Roman',serif;">I am hoping to upgrade the front suspension on my (street/AutoX) TR3 this summer by changing out the upper A-arm, vertical link and trunnion to TR6 parts. I will use “the” Jag ball joint and shim it as required. Due to the complexity of shortening the upper A-arm or moving the inner pivot point inward, I am considering welding an extension to the upper A-Arm ball joint mounting tabs on the inside to mount the ball joint further inward and produce a similar result to shortening the A-arm. I have not removed my TR3 A-Arms yet, but it appears there is room to move the ball joint inward at least an inch in this way. I know I can’t go as far as those of you who have shortened the upper arms, but it seems like it could be a decent compromise. I am concerned though, as this seems too easy. None of you guys have done it. Instead you have shortening the upper arms which, from what I have read, is challenging, as is moving the inner pivot point and retaining substantial structure.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif" data-mce-style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-family: 'Times New Roman',serif;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif" data-mce-style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-family: 'Times New Roman',serif;">So, the question is. . . . . . . Why is simply moving the ball joint further inboard not a good solution? What am I missing?<br></span></p><div><br></div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif" data-mce-style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-family: 'Times New Roman',serif;">Thanks in advance,</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif" data-mce-style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-family: 'Times New Roman',serif;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif" data-mce-style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-family: 'Times New Roman',serif;">Jack</span></p></div><br>_______________________________________________<br>fot@autox.team.net<br><div><br></div>http://www.fot-racing.com<br><div><br></div>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<br>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<br>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<br>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye@comcast.net<br><div><br></div><br></div><div><br></div></div></body></html>