<html><head></head><body style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space; ">The GT6 crank can withstand high RPMs, unlike the stroked TR6 crank. A stock crank, balanced, nitrided and straight, is good for over 7,000 rpm with no issues.<div><br><div><div>On Dec 9, 2015, at 9:47 AM, John Hasty wrote:</div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline"><div>No doubt that quality rods and crank are a must have for a race motor. Don't know what kind of cranks you GT6 guys use, but if you go for a billet crank I suggest you have the rod journals sized to fit good old American V8's...the choice of good rods in what ever length you want is infinite and at half the price of Carillo's...not to mention that the choice of bearings is also infinite...we are using Manley H beam rods from a Ford modular engine in one motor and Scat H beam chevy rods in the other one and have had no problems turning the TR3 motor to 6500 and occasionally 7000.<br><br>-----Original Message-----<br>From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Scott Janzen<br>Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2015 9:07 AM<br>To: Spitfire Racing<br>Cc: FOT list<br>Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6 Connecting rods<br><br>I think it depends on what you want to do with the car. Both my race motors have Carillo rods in them - one component I have no worries about. Beware those pesky little bolts on the Carillos - use a stretch gauge, not a torque wrench, cuz if you over-stretch one they are about $45 each, but I digress.<br><br>My motor sees 7,000 rpm five times a lap at Summit Point, so in a 12 lap race that's 60 cycles to redline over about 20 minutes. I like having parts I can rely on. There are enough other weak points in a GT6 to fix!<br><br>When I originally got this car, it had six beautifully lightened, balanced and shot peened stock rods with ARP bolts. You could do that for a lot less money and probably be fine for 6,000 rpm regularly.<br><br>So, reliable competitive race car (Carillo), or fast street car/back half of the pack race car (improved stock), or fast race car if it doesn't blow up first (Chinese)? Keep in mind that back in the day they ran stock rods to 8,000 rpm.<br>If you are on a budget (we all are at some level, right?) and want to get on the track sooner than later - go for "stock" and know the limitations of the engine. You can always upgrade later- that engine will not be "one and done", so you will have it apart every other year at a minimum and can swap out rods.<br>But I agree with Russ- don't buy the knockoffs and delude yourself that they are as good as the real stuff- that will just lead to catastrophe down the road.<br><br>Sent from my mobile device<br><br>On Dec 9, 2015, at 8:02 AM, Spitfire Racing <<a href="mailto:spitfire_racing@twcny.rr.com">spitfire_racing@twcny.rr.com</a>> wrote:<br><br>A properly built and modified race engine represents a mighty investment not only of dollars but of time. Is that really where you want to pinch pennies?<br>After all, with the exception of pistons and crank that is one of the primary components and all it takes is one piece inside an engine to reduce all your work and investment to nothing more than scrap metal. One seized valve, or substandard bolt even can be a disaster. It doesn't take much.<br>Realize all the ancillary invested expenditures that are also at risk like a weekend's entry fee you lose in an engine failure; the cost of time off from work to go to a race weekend; the cost of food and lodging for the race outing and the cost of just getting there. When asked, I usually advise folks to figure a race weekend is ~$1000 minimum when you roll all in.<br><br>A number of racers have run Pauter rods as stated before by Bill and these do present a less expensive alternative. I had the opportunity to rebuild an engine last year with Pauter rods and they were quite substantial and were well designed, constructed and balanced. Personally I have seen far too many Chinese knock-offs; reproductions (call them what you will), that fail to come close to the parts they try to mimic.<br>I suggest you perhaps delay your build until your war chest allows for top quality internals. Do it once and do it right the first time and reduce the potential for disappointing expensive disaster.<br><br>Russ Moore<br>Spitfire #49<br><br>-----Original Message-----<br>From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jamie<br>Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2015 6:22 AM<br>To: McKearn McKearn<br>Cc: FOT list<br>Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6 Connecting rods<br><br>Although I was initially very wary, they have worked well for over 1,000 race miles in our (horror) MGB engine.<br><br>Jamie Palmer<br><br><br><blockquote type="cite">On Dec 8, 2015, at 11:52 PM, McKearn McKearn <<a href="mailto:mckearn2@gmail.com">mckearn2@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite"><br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite">Hi Gents.<br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite"> I am looking for feedback on the MaxSpeeding connecting rods for GT6.<br></blockquote>Can't afford Carrillos and I'm hoping these are good. Also am still searching for an aluminum flywheel without having something custom made. and would like input on what type of clutch to use as well . Lets call it a race car for the sake of argument....<br><blockquote type="cite"> Thanks. 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