<html><head></head><body style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space; "><br><div><div>looking at some old email chains on this subject, it appears that Southwick uses Moser circle track axles made for the 8" or 9" ford, but modified by Moser for the Tr splines and correct length. Here's a couple of emails from John Styduhar, who converted his TR3 himself, and from Tony Drews on the subject.</div><div><br></div><div><blockquote type="cite"><div><div dir="ltr">When the first copycat was done, we sent the stock axle to Moser and they machined their axles based on the dimensions of the stockers. The Ford axle housing ends can be purchased through several sources. Now if you want to purchase Moser axles for a TR4, they will need the correct length for these axles. </div></div></blockquote></div><div><br></div><div><blockquote type="cite"><div><div class="gmail_extra"><div class="gmail_quote"><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0.8ex; padding-left: 1ex; border-left-color: rgb(204, 204, 204); border-left-width: 1px; border-left-style: solid; position: static; z-index: auto; "><div><div><div><div><div><div>My "copycat" Southwick conversion on a TR3 rear axle uses the 9" small Ford<br>housing ends (the housing ID for the sealed bearing is 2.835"). The last<br>step on the housing end is removed and then fits perfectly over the axle<br>tube (2.25"OD) for welding. The Ford axle housing fits right up against<br>the small locating tab which located the outer leaf spring u-bolt, so<br>orientation for track width is easy. Moser engineering sells the 24-spline<br>axles for $370.00, bearings and wedding band retainers installed for<br>$75.00, and they can drill the stud holes on a 4x4.5 pattern for whatever<br>wheel stud knurl diameter you are using. Make sure to have them drill an<br>access hole in the flange to make it easy to install and remove the axle<br>without taking the brakes apart. Same setup for TR4 but longer axles as<br>you TR4 guys and gals already know. Like Tony mentioned, the brake backing<br>plates will need to be modified for the 4-bolt bearing retainer (backing<br>plate ID needs to be enlarged slightly to slip over the bearing and the 4<br>mounting holes for the C-shaped retainer need to be drilled). As another<br>patron mentioned, you can mock everything up and do your welding in situ.<br>While your welding, go ahead and weld the axle tubes to the pumpkin for<br>stiffening.</div></div></div></div></div></div></blockquote></div></div></div></blockquote><br></div><div><blockquote type="cite"><div><div class="gmail_extra"><div class="gmail_quote"><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0.8ex; padding-left: 1ex; border-left-color: rgb(204, 204, 204); border-left-width: 1px; border-left-style: solid; position: static; z-index: auto; "><div><div><div><div><div><div><blockquote type="cite">The "Southwick Rear Axle Conversion" uses Ford 8" axles that are cut down<br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite">in length and re-splined for the TR-differential. The outer end of the<br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite">axle tube is cut off and the outboard end of a Ford 8" axle tube is welded<br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite">on. It is possible that someone sells just that outer end of the axle<br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite">tube. The backing plates are machined in the center to have a larger<br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite">diameter hole and holes are drilled for the 4 bolts which hold the axle<br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite">bearing into the housing.<br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite"><br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite">These axles are a one piece design - the hub / flange is part of the axle<br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite">shaft. The outer bearing is pressed on and an inner retainer is pressed on<br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite">to hold the bearing in place. It is a sealed bearing, so acts as the<br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite">bearing AND the outer seal. There is an o-ring which goes around the<br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite">outside of the bearing to seal that area too.<br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite"><br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite">Those axles don't normally break. Stock Car racers bounce them off of<br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite">concrete walls and just bend them. And, if they DO break, they break<br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite">between the outer bearing and the differential so that the wheel stays on<br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite">the car.</blockquote></div></div></div></div></div></div></blockquote></div></div></div></blockquote></div></div></body></html>