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<DIV>If it was missing the inner hubs/flanges, which should mean it was missing
inner axles since they’re all a single unit, you should have been able to just
look through the hole and see if it was welded up or not.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Here’s a trick I did when I had my welded-up unit out of the car – took it
to a machine shop and had them drill a sizeable hole through the weld and welded
gears.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Reason; back in the day I when I had a limited slip in the car I snapped a
goodly number of inner axles (stock mk. 1 Spitfire units). I got pretty good at
changing them out on the fly. Took about an hour if I could stick a magnet in
and pull out the broken end. Double that if the broken stub was jammed in so I
had to knock it out from the other side. Later I got a big-axle GT6 unit and
went to a welded rear which immensely reduced my broken axle issues (and I like
the way it handles!). I’ve still broken couple since then, but it’s become quite
rare. But first time I did the repair took 12 hours (overnight at the track!)
and eventually involved removing the diff and taking it to where someone could
remove the broken stub, for the simple reason that I could not poke it out from
the other side – the opening was blocked. Ain’t blocked no mo’.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>--Rocky Entriken</DIV>
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<DIV style="font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A title=levilevi@comcast.net
href="mailto:levilevi@comcast.net">Bud R</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, June 18, 2015 1:04 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=fot@autox.team.net
href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net">FOT</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Cc:</B> <A title=jgray@zimkor.com href="mailto:jgray@zimkor.com">Jim
Gray</A> ; <A title=edenma@aol.com href="mailto:edenma@aol.com">Mark A. Eden</A>
</DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> [Fot] Even a blind pig finds an acorn once in
awhile.</DIV></DIV></DIV>
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<DIV>Listerati,</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>As luck would have it the 4:11 differential (one of the spares
that came with the race car) I had refurbished for my Spitfire this week turned
out to already be welded. So I don’t have to worry about some of the tighter
turns lifting a wheel. That’s a relief.
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I hadn’t even considered I’d be that lucky, and it was missing the inner
hubs/flanges so I never tested it for being welded up and hadn’t ever opened it
up.
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Since I had already been driving a welded 3:89 I’m kinda already used to
the welded axle driving style, whatever that is.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I think I’ll go buy a lottery ticket. It’s not often I walk out of a shop
feeling so good about picking up a part.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Now if anyone knows where I can get a 1/2 inch version of the aluminum
lowering block that goes on top of the diff I’d appreciate knowing. I believe
the 1/2 inch block is supposed to give you 2 degrees negative camber and right
now I have 3 degrees of negative camber. Chequered Racing only has 1 inch
blocks.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Thanks,</DIV>
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Rolofson</DIV>
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Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)</DIV>
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<DIV>71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)</DIV>
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Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3</DIV>
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Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car)</DIV>
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Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle </DIV>
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Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)</DIV></DIV>
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