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I make my own from the remflex material so I can cut the intake holes
smaller.<br>
<a href="http://catalog.remflex.com/COLLECTOR_CONNECTOR_Flange_Exhaust_Gasket_p/gs16024.htm" eudora="autourl">
http://catalog.remflex.com/COLLECTOR_CONNECTOR_Flange_Exhaust_Gasket_p/gs16024.htm<br>
<br>
</a>Good sharp knife cuts it OK.<br><br>
Tony<br><br>
At 04:52 PM 5/3/2015, Jim Gray via Fot wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite=""><font size=2 color="#000080">
Bill,<br>
You were right but I don’t have a good solution at the moment. Only # 3
reacted to the carb cleaner and that suprises me a bit.<br>
I have the thick remflex gaskets in there. One side of the intake
manifold on # 3 had barely any contact with the gasket.<br>
The remflex and the Moss gaskets have 1-11/16” inside diameter openings
at the intakes. My cannon manifolds are 1-7/16”<br>
and the cannon’s don’t have a lot of meat for bearing surface around the
lower area’s around 5 o’clock and 7 o’clock.<br>
As best I can tell though it was actually leaking on # 3 at 3 o’clock
right next to the clamp bolt.<br>
I could actually look next to the clamp bolt and see where the gap
was.<br>
I need to either find different gaskets with a smaller ID or make my
own.<br>
Have you, or anybody had success at making their own intake/exhaust
gaskets from regular gasket material ?<br>
jim<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<hr>
<div align="center"></font></div>
<font face="Tahoma" size=2><b>From:</b> Bill Babcock
[<a href="mailto:Bill@ponostyle.com" eudora="autourl">
mailto:Bill@ponostyle.com</a>] <br>
<b>Sent:</b> Sunday, May 03, 2015 1:21 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Jim Gray<br>
<b>Cc:</b> fot@autox.team.net<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Fot] Weber tuning help please<br>
</font><font face="Times New Roman, Times"> <br>
Sounds like an air leak somewhere. Perhaps it gets overcome at full
throttle or is worsened at those specific RPMs because of harmonics in
the vibration of the carb. Might be a crack or flaw in the carb, but more
likely it’s in the mounting, either O rings or some other flaw. They can
be hard to detect and locate. You could use the carb cleaner methodspray
a little at each joint or suspect area and listen for changes in engine
sound. I’ve used the ultrasonic detector I use for finding leaks in
surfboards to some effect, a leak sounds like a calliope, but there’s a
lot of other noise to sort it from. <br>
<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">On May 3, 2015, at 8:40 AM, Jim
Gray via Fot
<<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net">fot@autox.team.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
<br>
</font><font size=2>I just installed my webers and I’m running into
something not covered in anything I’ve read so far.<br>
At cruise speed which I do on the street, 2500 -3000 RPM my exhaust
gas temps on # 4 are 100 plus degrees<br>
over # 1and will climb to 1400 if I stay at that throttle setting. Under
wide open throttle they equalize and seem<br>
to settle in at about 1300.<br>
However, I think this may be symptomatic of my other issue. When I’m
tuning the idle air screws, open them up until<br>
it starts to miss & so on, I can get a predictable stumble from three
out of the four screws.<br>
The screw on # 3 has no effect on the idle no matter how far I run it in
or out.<br>
Also , when I put my syncrometers on #’s 3 and 4 they are significantly
different.<br>
I’m not going to get my dyno tune before the first race in two weeks so
I’m left to figure it out on my own for now.<br>
Any help would be greatly appreciated,<br>
Jim g<br>
<br>
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