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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">It is the distance the heat has to
travel up the center electrode to the metal shell so the plug can
transfer heat to the water jackets in the head. <br>
The greater distance the hotter the plug and shorter the cooler
the heat range of a plug.<br>
Champion makes is easy since the higher the number the hotter the
plug. <br>
A Champion RN9YC is a cooler plug than a RN12YC.<br>
Look in any automotive text book or the Champion manuals for the
explanation.<br>
Glenn<br>
<br>
On 4/24/2015 9:11 AM, Barr, Scott via Fot wrote:<br>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D">OK,
so here’s the stupid question of the day – what is it that
makes a hot plug “hotter” or a cold plug “colder”. Is a
“colder” plug more resistant to absorbing heat? And if so,
why?<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D">Scott
(B.)<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
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1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in">
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif">From:</span></b><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif"> Fot
[<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net</a>]
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Bill Babcock via Fot<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Thursday, April 23, 2015 7:11 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Robert M. Lang<br>
<b>Cc:</b> <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net">fot@autox.team.net</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Fot] Spark Plugs<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Why would you want to play with heat range
on a dyno? There’s no horsepower difference. The only function
of heat range is to have the porcelain at the right
temperature to burn off deposits and not overheat to the point
that the plug electrode melts or the porcelain blisters. Or at
an extreme that the spark plug starts acting like a glow plug.
Some tracks that are very tight or that have elevation changes
might dictate a change to a hotter plug, or one with long open
straights might warrant a colder one, but once you’re in the
ballpark you shouldn’t have to do much. <o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
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<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">On Apr 23, 2015, at 8:51 AM, Robert
M. Lang via Fot <<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net">fot@autox.team.net</a>>
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:12.0pt">Hi,<br>
<br>
I've been using Accel 114's for the last ten or 15
years, they seem to work fine. I have a collection of
different temp range plugs from Accel all the way from
113 through 117. I've never taken the time to play on
the dyno to see if there's any difference changing
heat range. I know = "my bad". I've never had a plug
fail despite the amount of internet detritus regarding
the quality of this brand.<br>
<br>
In any case I was thinking about switching to NGK. My
TR6 motor is 12:1, Webers, cam (street duration Isky
Z19), header, etc. Ignition is Mallory / Pertronix.<br>
<br>
Would the NGK BP6ES or BP7ES be a better choice?<br>
<br>
Regards,<br>
rml<br>
---------------------------------------------------------------------------<br>
Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This
space for rent<br>
Former NER Solo Chair |<br>
Voice:617-253-7438 |
Cell: 339-927-4489<br>
---------------------------------------------------------------------------<br>
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