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<DIV>Macel, I had a similar problem when I modified my TR4A suspension. I had
fitted the TR6 lower inner 2 stud frame mounts and the back up plates for
additional strength over the single stud original TR4A inner mounts. I needed to
loosen the lower mounts to the frame to allow the upright to easily attach to
the upper ball joint. Once I did that everything went together as it should and
I then tightened the the lower mounts to the frame. There was enough movement in
the frame holes which allowed the lower A- Arms to move and make the upright out
of position. Get all of the parts together before you final tighten the lower
inner frame mounts. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Of course having the trunnion properly sided is important too.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>JVV</DIV>
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<DIV style="font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A title=fot@autox.team.net
href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net">Marcel Van Mulders via Fot</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, March 15, 2015 10:33 AM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=fot@autox.team.net
href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net">fot@autox.team.net</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> [Fot] FW: FW: TR4A front suspension.</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></DIV>
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<FONT size=2 face=Tahoma><B>Van:</B> Marcel Van Mulders
[mailto:van.mulders.marcel@telenet.be] <BR><B>Verzonden:</B> zondag 15 maart
2015 15:28<BR><B>Aan:</B> 'davehogye'<BR><B>Onderwerp:</B> RE: [Fot] FW: TR4A
front suspension.<BR></FONT><BR></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=240140614-15032015><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>Quoting Dave : "... of course the trunnions are sided...".
Unbelievable, but the left lower trunnion is mounted on the right side of the
car and vice versa. I have worked on the front suspension during 5 evenings till
01.00 am and still didn't see it, although these trunnions are marked RH and LH.
I noticed it this morning when starting to fit adjustable upper inner fulcrum
pins. When correctly fitting the lower outer trunnion bolt, only the part of the
upright that is screwed in the trunnion is allowing a little movement , the
upper ball joint could not be forced between the upper (original)wishbones. This
is the case on both sides of the car and the upper ball joint is 1cm more to the
front than the lower trunnion when the car is level(= a little negative caster).
I'll report on this forum when I've swapped the trunnions and uprights next
week.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=240140614-15032015><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>Of course I don't want to blame anyone. Everyone does make
mistakes and this TR4A of Bob Kramer is a very good car with many great
features. I'm very pleased with it and I expect to run in the
front.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=240140614-15032015><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>Marcel.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=240140614-15032015><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=240140614-15032015><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>v</FONT></SPAN><FONT size=2 face=Tahoma><B>an:</B> davehogye
[mailto:dlhogye@comcast.net] <BR><B>Verzonden:</B> dinsdag 10 maart 2015
20:07<BR><B>Aan:</B> Marcel Van Mulders<BR><B>Onderwerp:</B> Re: [Fot] FW: TR4A
front suspension.<BR></FONT><BR></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV style="FONT-FAMILY: arial; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 12pt">
<DIV>RevingtonTR has adjustable upper, inner fulcrum pins, which allow camber
adjustment, but also allow the upright to find a happy place without
force. I would think that if everything is within factory specs, the
upright should align as long as you have the 3 degree trunnion. Of course
the 3 degree trunnions are sided.<BR></DIV>
<DIV>The adjustable fulcrum pin is probably not allowed by your rule book.
I use them on my TR3 to get negative camber without modifying/shortening the
upper arms. These adjustable pins can be flipped depending on the ride
height. They also come with spacers that fit between the ball joint and
the A-arms for further caster adjustment.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Dave H.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
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<DIV
style="FONT-STYLE: normal; FONT-FAMILY: helvetica,arial,sans-serif; COLOR: #000; FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; TEXT-DECORATION: none"><B>From:
</B>"Marcel Van Mulders via Fot" <fot@autox.team.net><BR><B>To:
</B>fot@autox.team.net<BR><B>Sent: </B>Tuesday, March 10, 2015 11:13:06
AM<BR><B>Subject: </B>[Fot] FW: TR4A front suspension.<BR>
<DIV> </DIV>
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<HR>
<SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: tahoma; FONT-SIZE: small"
data-mce-style="font-family: Tahoma; font-size: small;" face="Tahoma"
size="2"><B>Van:</B> Marcel Van Mulders [mailto:van.mulders.marcel@telenet.be]
<BR><B>Verzonden:</B> dinsdag 10 maart 2015 19:04<BR><B>Aan:</B> 'Jack
Wheeler'<BR><B>Onderwerp:</B> RE: [Fot] TR4A front
suspension.<BR></SPAN><BR></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=455354617-10032015><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: arial; COLOR: #0000ff; FONT-SIZE: small"
data-mce-style="color: #0000ff; font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"
face="Arial" size="2" color="#0000ff">All the parts are TR-4A-TR6, so the
trunnions are 3° (all TR trunnions that have removable trunnion bolts are
handed, trunnions with pressed in pins can be 0° or 3°).</SPAN></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=455354617-10032015><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: arial; COLOR: #0000ff; FONT-SIZE: small"
data-mce-style="color: #0000ff; font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"
face="Arial" size="2" color="#0000ff">"...the lower trunnion should rotate
around the bolt..." If I understand what you mean, I don't believe this is
correct : the trunnion bolt is clamping the distance pieces (short pieces of
steel tube that slide over the bolt and rotate in the outer wishbone bushings)
onto the trunnion and hence the bolt, trunnion and distance pieces should rotate
together and only the wishbones can rotate in respect to the bolt (and trunnion
and distance pieces). I have assembled the suspension in this way, eliminating
thus the play of the trunnion on the bolt and this is the reason I had to drill
new holes , more to the rear, in order to get the upperr end of the uprights
between the outer ends of the upper wishbones. All parts and also the chassis
seem to be all right. Maybe I get it wrong anyway with the assembling of the
suspension parts</SPAN></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=455354617-10032015><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: arial; COLOR: #0000ff; FONT-SIZE: small"
data-mce-style="color: #0000ff; font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"
face="Arial" size="2" color="#0000ff">Marcel.</SPAN></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=455354617-10032015><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: arial; COLOR: #0000ff; FONT-SIZE: small"
data-mce-style="color: #0000ff; font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"
face="Arial" size="2" color="#0000ff"></SPAN></SPAN> </DIV>
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face="Arial" size="2" color="#0000ff"></SPAN></SPAN> </DIV><SPAN
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data-mce-style="color: #0000ff; font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"
face="Arial" size="2" color="#0000ff"></SPAN><BR>
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<SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: tahoma; FONT-SIZE: small"
data-mce-style="font-family: Tahoma; font-size: small;" face="Tahoma"
size="2"><B>Van:</B> Jack Wheeler [mailto:jwheeler1947@yahoo.com]
<BR><B>Verzonden:</B> zondag 8 maart 2015 23:40<BR><B>Aan:</B> Van Mulders
Marcel<BR><B>Onderwerp:</B> Re: [Fot] TR4A front
suspension.<BR></SPAN><BR></DIV>
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<DIV dir=ltr id=yui_3_16_0_1_1425815565626_10469>Do you have the TR-4A uprights
and trunions? The TR-4A trunion is just the brass piece that fits in
between the lower wishbone arms and a bolt slides through it, instead of the
fulcrum pin (pressed into the trunion), as you would have had on your
TR-3. The lower trunion should rotate on the bolt, and the wishbone arm
bushings. There is a left and right hand, and when properly installed, you
should have about 3 degrees of positive castor on both sides. I raced a
TR-4A for 25 years, so I know the suspension intimately! Good luck.</DIV>
<DIV id=yui_3_16_0_1_1425815565626_10468> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr id=yui_3_16_0_1_1425815565626_10467>Jack<BR></DIV>
<DIV id=yui_3_16_0_1_1425815565626_10363><SPAN></SPAN></DIV>
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<SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: arial; FONT-SIZE: small"
id=yui_3_16_0_1_1425815565626_10466
data-mce-style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;" face="Arial"
size="2"><B><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">From:</SPAN></B> Van Mulders Marcel
via Fot <fot@autox.team.net><BR><B><SPAN
style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">To:</SPAN></B> fot@autox.team.net <BR><B><SPAN
style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Sent:</SPAN></B> Sunday, March 8, 2015 5:35
PM<BR><B><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Subject:</SPAN></B> [Fot] TR4A front
suspension.<BR></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV id=yui_3_16_0_1_1425815565626_10340 class=y_msg_container>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV id=yiv2435760872>
<DIV id=yui_3_16_0_1_1425815565626_10339>
<DIV id=yui_3_16_0_1_1425815565626_10338><SPAN
id=yui_3_16_0_1_1425815565626_10337 class=yiv2435760872733024020-08032015><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: arial; FONT-SIZE: small" id=yui_3_16_0_1_1425815565626_10336
data-mce-style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;" face="Arial" size="2">In
June 2014 I bought Bob Kramer's TR4A racecar after I crashed my TR3 at the
Zandvoort circuit (The Netherlands). It's a great car and it will get better. Of
my TR3, I only kept the engine and overdrive dogbox Overhauling the front
suspension, I found that the lower trunnion was moving on the bolt instead of
the bushed lower wishbones : the distance pieces in the wishbones where shorter
than original, so the trunnion was not clamped by these distance pieces when
fastening the bolt. Correcting this, the upright has less play now, only a
little in the trunnion, and this upright with balljoint can't be forced anymore
between the outer ends of the upper wihbones, the balljoint is 1/2" too far to
the rear. Turning the upper wishbones to the rear (by moving the fulcrum pin)
isn't a good option, because binding will occur. I've drilled new holes for the
brackets for the inner ends of the lower wishbones : the suspension is moving
without any binding now but I don't know if I will leave it like that. I wonder
if something is wrong with the uprights? (less than 3° caster?) If I measure the
caster, I find 2.2° on both sides, but probably that isn't proving anything. The
chassis is as new, no damage. Any idea's someone?</SPAN></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV id=yui_3_16_0_1_1425815565626_10343><SPAN
id=yui_3_16_0_1_1425815565626_10342 class=yiv2435760872733024020-08032015><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: arial; FONT-SIZE: small" id=yui_3_16_0_1_1425815565626_10341
data-mce-style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;" face="Arial"
size="2">Another question : trying to get at zero bump steer, the best I get at
by moving the steering rack is a J : the wheels are toeing in when lowered more
than 3 cm below ride height (minimal to 5cm, then more and more toe in). Bending
the steering arms to the outside, almost touching the brake disks now, has
straightened the J a little. Is it possible to eliminate the bump steer
completely, or have we(TR4A-TR6) to accept some bump steer in the least
important part of the suspension travel?</SPAN></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV id=yui_3_16_0_1_1425815565626_10407><SPAN
class=yiv2435760872733024020-08032015><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: arial; FONT-SIZE: small"
data-mce-style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;" face="Arial"
size="2">Marcel.</SPAN></SPAN></DIV></DIV></DIV><BR></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV><BR><BR></DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>