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<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=136363117-10032015><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>I know of your article in Kas Kastners Triumph
Preparation Handbook and on my TR3 I could eliminate the bump steer completely
with laser and mirror after fitting a small steering rack (TR7 rack if I
remember).</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=136363117-10032015><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>On the TR4A, bending the steering arms to the outside
and thus making the track rods 1cm longer improved things a little
bit. Also lowering the rack by 0.3cm is a little better. Moving the rack to the
rear or to the front is making the bump steer worse. Maybe fitting a smaller
steering rack (distance between the inner balljoints) can eliminate the bump
steer further?</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=136363117-10032015><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>Marcel</FONT></SPAN></DIV><BR>
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<FONT size=2 face=Tahoma><B>Van:</B> Bill Babcock [mailto:Bill@ponostyle.com]
<BR><B>Verzonden:</B> zondag 8 maart 2015 23:18<BR><B>Aan:</B> Van Mulders
Marcel<BR><B>Onderwerp:</B> Re: [Fot] TR4A front
suspension.<BR></FONT><BR></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>Geometrically, zero bump steer is achieved when the centerline of the
upper and arm lower pivots are in line with the steering linkage pivots, both
inner and outer and the centerline of the tie rod intersects with the instant
center of the upper and lower arms. This isn’t actually achievable with a
trunnion linkage. I got almost all of the bump steer out of Peyote by getting
the centerlines right and then moving the rack up and down while bouncing a
laser off a mirror on the control arm onto a target on a wall.
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<DIV>On Mar 8, 2015, at 11:35 AM, Van Mulders Marcel via Fot <<A
href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net">fot@autox.team.net</A>> wrote:</DIV><BR
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<DIV><SPAN class=733024020-08032015><FONT size=2 face=Arial>In June 2014
I bought Bob Kramer's TR4A racecar after I crashed my TR3 at the Zandvoort
circuit (The Netherlands). It's a great car and it will get better. Of my
TR3, I only kept the engine and overdrive dogbox Overhauling
the front suspension, I found that the lower trunnion was moving on the bolt
instead of the bushed lower wishbones : the distance pieces in the
wishbones where shorter than original, so the trunnion was not clamped by
these distance pieces when fastening the bolt. Correcting this, the
upright has less play now, only a little in the trunnion, and this
upright with balljoint can't be forced anymore between the outer ends of the
upper wihbones, the balljoint is 1/2" too far to the rear. Turning the
upper wishbones to the rear (by moving the fulcrum pin) isn't a good
option, because binding will occur. I've drilled new holes for the brackets
for the inner ends of the lower wishbones : the suspension is moving without
any binding now but I don't know if I will leave it like that. I
wonder if something is wrong with the uprights? (less than 3° caster?) If
I measure the caster, I find 2.2° on both sides, but probably that isn't
proving anything. The chassis is as new, no damage. Any idea's
someone?</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=733024020-08032015><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Another question :
trying to get at zero bump steer, the best I get at by moving the
steering rack is a J : the wheels are toeing in when lowered more
than 3 cm below ride height (minimal to 5cm, then more and more toe in).
Bending the steering arms to the outside, almost touching the brake disks now,
has straightened the J a little. Is it possible to eliminate the bump
steer completely, or have we(TR4A-TR6) to accept some bump steer in
the least important part of the suspension travel?</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=733024020-08032015><FONT size=2
face=Arial>Marcel.</FONT></SPAN></DIV></DIV>_______________________________________________<BR><A
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<DIV><FONT face="Comic Sans MS"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 14px">Bill
Babcock</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
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